3D Printed Grids for Everything
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 มี.ค. 2024
- STL's and links: fpfdesigns.com/
Black PLA: amzn.to/3T9afnk
Outro music is "Quantum" by "Vapora", used with explicit permission from the artist. • Quantum
New videos published every Friday, featuring a new 3D printed functional object, how I use it, and design considerations.
The design depicted in this video is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License or other non-commercial license.
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sparse infill
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I used the imfil as a speaker grill. I did have outer wall, and hex infill. And maybe is the hex, or ideamaker slicer, but it had the option on how many lines to use in the infill built in.
great idea to use infill, I'd try setting the spare infill width to double the nozzle width and give it a shot rather than having two cubes. Haven't tried it yet, but I print walls at double the size rather than having multiple walls for functional parts and that has worked great.
Is there any reason that it has to be a square grid?
I think using "honeycomb" infill pattern probably fixes most of the issues without hacks. (Double line width, overlapping path, nozzle scratching)
Also setting larger infill line width should give you stronger structure and better layer adhesion. Try 0.5 or even 0.6mm, as long as the speed is within the limit of the hotend flow limit.
The tip of the nozzle is a flat surface that is much wider than 0.4mm.
Congrats on 10K!
Next stop, 25K!
I have to say I haven't seen this trick done before. I usually just draw an empty box, shell it out to the desired wall thickness, then use repeat/pattern to make the grid. A bit of an extra step, but I have total control over the shape and layout.
Congratulations on the channel milestone. Definitely one of my favorite channels. As always, thanks for sharing your ideas. The narration is always engaging and entertaining. 👍👍😎👍👍
As far as modelling grids, I can think of ways to do it in two CAD packages that I regularly use.
FreeCAD: LinearPattern in Part Design workbench, or Array Tools in Draft workbench
OpenSCAD: Create a couple of "for" loops, one in each direction. You can select a start, an end, and an increment between the two.
Printing an infill pattern is a lot faster, though.
you can just increase extrusion width.
Cura has infill line multiplier too
thx, I'll try that next time
why not just increase the line width to 0.8mm? that will be just as strong and print faster. I print single wall parts at 0.8 line width from a 0.4 nozzle all the time when I want a fast part that is still somewhat strong and 0.8mm line is just as strong as 2x 0.4mm lines. you would need to make sure you have your max volumetric flow set correctly in the slicer because with those high speed printers printing over sized walls could very quickly max out your flow rate and the max volumetric flow setting will automagically scale the speed down to compensate for that.
thx, I'll try that next time
Nicely done. I had those same oil cans and the leaking drove me mad. Bought a bunch of Reilang R003-253 oil cans and the problem was gone. They develop good pressure, work at any angle, upside down, and all viscosities of oil. In a machine shop good oil cans are cheap in relation to everything else. Plus you can oil machines without leaving oily high-fives on everything. Keep up the good work.
dang, now I want one of those. checked them out and they are REALLY nice
It's a neat trick. You can do this in a couple of minutes using patterns in Fusion and I'm sure Onshape has similar functions. Making it parametric in Fusion allows you to easily make changes to the grid size and wall thickness. As a honeycomb enjoyer, I use this functionality a lot. But if you've never used a CAD app, this is a great option and probably gonna quicker than learning Fusion just to do this one thing.
Are the lids not interchangeable? It won't solve the nozzle leaking, but you might be able to swap the lid onto the brown can that leaks less.
23:10 chuck some paper towel under the grid be easier to swap out every so often.
gonna put some pig mat under there
I’d use the lathe to make a new tip that works with the cans that don’t leak. You also have a tip on the leaky can to use as an example. Use the 3D printer and AMS to make a jacket (held with magnets if it’s a steel can) on the can with a text showing the type of oil in the can so a double win for the channel. 10k subs awesome for you love the channel!
unfortunately they epoxied the tips on
As you are still only printing 0.84mm wide walls of infill, you could also just set the infill line-width to 0.8. Even a 0.4mm nozzle will still print that. I often use it for vase mode prints. I don't understand why you removed the outer walls. I would consider it more clean to have a wall delimiting the shape ..
thx, I'll try that next time
with cura you can set infill thickness 200% and it does the same effect you did with the overlapping of the 2 "cubes". orca slicer doesn't have the same functionality.
I love this, especially since I dunked on cura so hard in my n4max video, lol
why wouldn't you just leave the outer walls on? it would keep the whole thing stronger
i did the same thing to replace the rubber flap over the garbage disposal with a grid stopper. I modeled a solid in cad with a little handle. then i changed the slicer settings to print with zero top and bottom thickness. then i changed the wall thickness to 6 loops and it worked perfectly. It is also way better than stock because you dont need to hold a rag over the opening when you turn it on. its a good project to share on your channel.
19:28 the circle base the a 1” wide cross shape you could fold up the cross then use that as finger tabs to lift out parts leave any dregs…
You could do a thicker grid - say 1” and then have a negative volume to make a grid “cup”. So basically put some edges to contain parts if you just have a bit to lift out without the finger tabs.
1 or 2 perimeters would strengthen this too.
Solution for that is to get a large syringe, get a huge 16ga needle..use a dremel to cut the sharp poky bit off to make it blunt...now you can push/inject oil in the oilers..no need to pump, plus you can pull back the plunger to pull the oil out of the nozzle so it doesn't drip
However I really like your designs! So it's much better that way ;)
Keep em coming!!!!
You can also just buy blunt-tip needles. Use them all the time for precise CA glue application
@@walking_disaster_ Right right...but if you have access to the poky ones, and a dremel with a cutoff wheel...you can usually make em cheaper than buying the "specialty" ones
@@haydenc2742 The blunt-tip Luer Lock needles are like half the price of the sharp ones
@@haydenc2742The blunt-tip Luer Lock needles are like half the price of the sharp ones lol
@@walking_disaster_ nice...didn't know that...thanks!!!!!
You may want to turn on walls with a setting of .8 for the wall thickness (or 1.2 if you want a bit more rigidity) and you don't have to orient the infil to 90 degrees. (unless you want to for aesthetics. It will bump up the rigidity a bit more. Also for the round parts trays, try setting it up with a disk, or in fusion or other cad program, create a disk with a fillet that has the same diameter as the round transition from bottom to side, and you won't have rusty bolts dropping down outside of the square grid. Some of them really like the magnets after all, :-)
The big advantage of having walls, vs. not, is that you won't have the stray ends of your infill hanging out in the open.
The other potentially useful advantage is that the added rigidity will mean that you should be able to get a rectilinear infill that won't fall apart with the first thing that touches it, as each line of infill will be firmly attached to a wall. It will still break down over time, but that just means you get to try a new color and watch how often you replace various grids. Right?
Also, have made plant spacers by modeling using OpenSCAD.
10K is huge. Celebrate your success !
thx!
It’s a consumable. Mineral oil will deteriorate the plastic over time. That’s why silicone oil is being used to actually grease plastic.
It depends on the plastic. It's not a universal truth
I might have designed a part in a CAD program that has the rounded corners, and a champhered bottom edge, and then printed that with no top or bottom and kept the outer walls. then you get a smooth outer walland a good match tot he container. but honnestly, what you did is great!
My first use of infill grids was for creating silicagel boxes. I now even have round containers that fit inside the hole of a filament spool so I can add silicagel in a vacuum bag and at the same time protect the bag by preventing the larger sucked in section of plastic in the center of my spools.
On normal prints, infill is optimized to give a quick infill that is strong enough to support the upper layers. If you want a thicker grid, you can increase the infill width (I use 0.45 or even larger) and reduce the speed. A thicker bead pushed out slower will squish it more into the previous layer, making a much stronger structure.
I just subscribed to see your results testing this (let's get you to 20,000 subs) 😁
thx, I'll try that next time
Helpful video. Just one remark. To align both objects, you might also select both and both right mouse click align the in the centre. Saves 2 seconds 😊
Nice hack. Thanks for the FPF today
I did the same with the hex pattern to get an easy way to direct air from a fan, really the easiest way to get thin consistent geometry without messing around too much. just made a cylinder inside it that had its top and bottom layers removed
I did couple of drip trays with just 5x0.4mm walls and infill as gyroid. Works great to be honest. Top & bottom at 0mm.
Thank you for the content
thank YOU for watching it
In UltiMaker Cura I can set the Top/Bottom Thickness to 0 and set the Infill Line Multiplier to 2. This gives me a similar print with just the infill. I used this as support between sheet metal.
2:14 That bench will survive a flood. 😁
I think it just might
I haven't seen this technique before and admire your creativity in coming up with it. I do think it is based on a flawed assumption though, if I understood you correctly you went through the process based on the base assumption that two 0.4mm wide walls placed next to each other were stronger than one 0.8mm wall, and that two 0.2mm layers stacked on top of each other were stronger than one 0.4mm layer. Given that, this was a cool way to take what would be a single 0.4mm tall and 0.8mm wide layer and replace it with four 0.2mm x 0.4mm layers, but I think that results in a longer print time and a weaker print. I hadn't seen the technique of 0 thickness walls either so it was cool to learn a new trick. For a print like this though consider leaving the walls and doing 0 thickness top and bottom layers as an alternative.
You knocked another one out of the park. Good job. Ciao, Marco.
Thanks a lot!
I have my Neptune 3 Max setup with a 0.8mm diamond nozzle. A single grid would be fine and it doesn't mind if the nozzle drags. Highly recommend going with at least a 0.6mm nozzle when you have a larger bed. Total game charger.
thx, I'm gonna try a .6
Congrats on 10k!
Thank you!!
Congrats on 10k subs.
thx
Nice!
I made a similar thing with my Markforged Mark 2 with Onyx and it’s pretty strong without doing that second offset grid.
Nice! How would one do it if the surface to print is vertical (like the sides of a laundry basket?
Can we rotate the infill vertically?
Congrats on the 10k subs! I am very happy for you!! You deserve it!
I'm surprised there isn't an option in the slicer for multiple wall infill.
Off the cuff, what if you export it as an STL and then load the STL? I should test this myself but I'm knee deep in another project and don't want to shiny squirrel myself. :)
I do this all the time, but I do a select all then I do assemble to make it one piece and I do not get the collisions.
Prusa/Super slicer have an option of how many wall infill to print. So the hole ballet with the 2nd solid wouldn't be necessary here. I assume that orca as a fork of prusa has the same option somewhere.
There are so many ways to do this with less complication. But I guess you have already figured that by reading the coments.
great information, Thanks. BTW i buy anchor lube by the gallon it's allot cheaper. Probably last me years. I got it through Walmart who procured it through MSC. $48.40 shipped
I think I can do kind of the same thing in Cura using "Infill Line Multiplier" , without using two objects.
I'm 7 minutes into your video and it seems like a repair of the problem would make more sense than an oil catcher. First I would determine where the oil leak is from just probably the crimp on the bottom of your oil can. I would then empty the oil, clean the oil out, coat the inside or put a small amount of epoxy in the bottom let it find its level. Then it would not leak and you can put it wherever you want.
I would design a grid in the software that way I would have a saved file that I could edit, but I guess I shouldn't comment until I see the rest of your video.
last time I did something like this I made a grid in the gimp using its grid generator then when I was happy with the layout and added a boarder just brought it in as a svg and extruded it, export to stl and badda boom, took like 3 min
Can you do a TPU gasket for the can?
Did the exact same thing a month ago to drain my resin prints.
I might try rectilinear with the extrusion width cranked up instead of multiple walls, should save a lot of time and also fix the collision issue.
Yeah; this is likely the simpler call. A 0.4mm nozzle can do much more than that in width. Leave the height at 0.2mm and I'm pretty sure you can push 0.8mm width. Well, I'm gonna give that a try anyhow.
Rectilinear will not work well without outer walls. Otherwise it will just peel apart like he showed in the video. There is not much layer adhesion with rectilinear.
@@spasecookee how about when you extrude 2~3x as much plastic?
@@sleepib Rectilinear doesn't "touch" the layer below it except at the crossing points. Think of a stacked log cabin, but where the logs intersect each other there is no notch cut in the logs to make them fit closer together.
@@spasecookee Doesn't matter if you're extruding enough plastic to fill the gap.
When you did the rectilinear tests were they still done with infill combination?
could just do 1 or 2 walls with no top or bottom layers
The pattern feature in Shapr3d can make a grid in seconds.
thx, I'll check that out
If pushed hard enough would it be possible for you to fabricate a new or modify the existing nozzle on that lathe?
they epoxied the tips on
@@FunctionalPrintFriday That's a bummer and incredibly stupid of the manufacturer
the tops of all three cans look like the same threads, have you tried switch tops around?
I have not, but I'll have to try it
I love your videos, but I feel this was better done with a cheap kitchen cooling rack. Would probably be easier to keep clean than the plastic grid
I don't plan on keeping the grid clean. It's just for the oil to drop through. Will wipe down the tray once a lot of oil accumulates
I would....have just modelled it to size and print it with a clean outer edge! And get a better oil can!
You have a lathe...can't you machine a nozzle that will work with the leak-free can?
I could, but they epoxied the nozzles on :(
@@FunctionalPrintFriday Cut it shorter and glue the new one too?
Great fix but I would fix the can as can be seen it's poor quality all round. The company should be ashamed selling such a defective product.
I could comment on this video, but I am not sure if i should. Once you get it, everything here sort of falls apart. Not sure that will be fair, as you seem like a fair guy.
you have a lathe make fictional tip s bend the flex shaft up pointing to the celing
this is cool, but also dumb. isn't the actual solution to the problem just to not have leaky oil cans rather than engineering solutions to live with leaky oil cans? hehe
Baking tray with a cooling rack in it. But the problem solving is interesting. This reminds me of the “fake” vase mode, only inverted.
Engineers need things to do 😅
Regardless of the fact that printing infill is a neat trick and I am all for fixing pesky little practical problems with a 3D printer... Can we just recognize the fact that the oil can is broken and needs to be replaced? It's 2024, in what universe is there an excuse for a manufacturer not being able to produce an oil can that doesn't leak?
give away idea make like 10k sub plaque stl
You have some of the best videos on TH-cam. I hope you pick up a lot more subscribers. One thing I noticed is that if I go to your website and watch your videos there, I can't give you any credit as if I watched them on TH-cam. I don't know how this all works, but maybe you could link those back to your TH-cam account so it shows that activity?
thx! maybe because they are embedded, I'm not sure