Disguising a BMX MICRO FREEWHEEL inside an Antique skip tooth sprocket // paul brodie's shop
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ม.ค. 2024
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Hi Paul, Another great episode. I have a track chain with a master link just like yours. The straight link comes away if you bend the chain slightly sideways with the link facing you .
Hi Paul, I was hoping to see how you cleaned up the sprocket after the silver solder.
The finish looked quite nice upon assembly mockup at the end of the video.
Did you fellas film it?
Curious, thanks.
This is something I'm going to enjoy... I love when people use BMX parts in non-bmx builds. Awesome video guys.... Keep up the great work. 😁👍❤️
Edit: 6:14 - Did this happen to everyone else or did I just have a stroke¿? 🤔 😂
The drop out at 6:14 happens again at 21-something. I've seen some other channels having issues with youtube compression mangling the video after upload.
Thanks for posting, thought I had wifi issues.
I used to take BMX stems and mill them out to 1 inch for use on my MTB street trials/dirt jump bikes. Which always had Profile cranks.
Nothing wrong with using BMX parts!
@@bigbird2451 - Awesome.... I know that was a thing back in the 90s because the BMX parts were better built and cheaper. I used to work at a BMX shop then and I recommend BMX to all the MTB riders... 😆👍
I've modified a few BMX freewheels by adding larger sprockets to them when I needed a large single speed freewheel when building Retro-Directs. I actually do weld the larger sprocket to the existing teeth of the BMX freewheel but only on the very tips of the teeth, making sure to cool everything after welding each tip. I've never damaged or even discolored a freewheel using this method. It only requires welding 4 or 5 teeth for a very strong connection, but there's no reason not to weld more, or even all of them if you wanted to.
I think your solution is far nicer looking if quite a bit heavier. My shop isn't as well equipped as yours, but my method allows me to make what I need quickly and inexpensively. I'm really digging this project and am eager to see those bronze cranks.
Cheers!
Thanks Jonathon. Yes, your method of just welding the tips of the teeth would work fine, If you were careful. Yes, my solution is heavier. Yes, either bronze rear hub or cranks next episode. We will see which makes more sense...
Fascinated and awed by the artistry, design and fabrication! Inspiring! Amazing the amount of data you take in and apply to each piece, consideration for so many facets of the build and how it all will go together. Go Paul and Mitch keep moving forward!
Yes! We are still having fun and that is good for the longevity of what we do....
The slot in the cog is so that a broken spoke can be removed and a new spoke inserted without having to take off the cog.
Or even taking the wheel off the bike. I was told by a Schwinn Dealer Mechanic that worked in his families Schwinn shop in Indiana from sometime during the mid 40s until the 70s, that broken spokes on bikes that didn't have to have perfectly true wheels were usually replaced with the wheel in the frame and the tire pulled off to the side. Apparantly, that method was encouraged by the Schwinn Rep. as a way to get more repairs done in less time.
Very interesting. Thanks for commenting. I'm still learning, that's for sure....
Now I know why my cog has that too. I thought it had to do with tension when corroded.
Thanks!
Isn't that the type of master link that you flex the pins together to get off?
Happy Birthday!
I wondered to same thing - put side load on slack chain and the plate is free to be removed.
I was thinking this could be the type of masterlink used here. It’s one that can easily be broken by hand with no tools, which really is a nice thing actually. I suspect the side (plate) thats shaped like a 8 is suppose to come off. Flex the chain towards that one, and you’ll find out soon enough.
Happy Birthday Paul 🎉
Back to the basics. Love it and yes we see the SS flow. As you said, beautiful.
Nice, very crafty.
I actually just laced a motorbike rim to a BMX micro gear hub.
Has a nice beefy 14mm axel.
Only problem is I'll have to widen the rear dropouts for my frame.
I build motorized bicycles....
Excellent that you are building. Keep on!
@@paulbrodie thank you 😊
That is a neat solution for the vintage bike build Paul. Thank you Paul and Mitch!
Thanks for commenting....
To me it's an incredible puzzle. Great workmanship. Thankyou for more lessons to learn✌
looks better by the day ,,, back when my grandad taught me how to break chains , it was always with a nut and a masonry [ obo] nail ,, hold the nail in a pair of pliers and do the whole job on a granite curb stone.
Looking forward to the rear hub fabrication!
Another superb episode in the art of making and adapting things to fit 👏👏👌
Cheers Chris
happy Birthday Paul....
Thank you very much!
Paul, we love and support you. Please continue like this, I wish you healthy and happy days. We love your videos and admire your mastery. Best regards...
In performance racing bikes at world level, chain links are rivetted and the tools are specific, although you can do them with a ball bearing into the dimpled end if you can get a tough vice in where it's needed. Multiple gearing and chain lengths are often a thing with unfamiliar circuits and 200mph+ bikes. Removal is easy . angle grind the links and then the press tool works.
Thanks Mark, I did get that link apart. I flexed it, and the larger side plate came off. Still learning a lot, apparently...
Great video as always Paul and Mitch, thank you for uploading! 👍👍
Thank you for watching and commenting...
This is slick! Keep up the good work.
At first I thought you wrote, "This is sick"... which is a compliment from the younger crowd. Thanks for watching and commenting...
You sound great and look healthy!!
Sprockets can be drilled with solid carbide drills, i found that out when i was involved in helping design carbon fibre framed trikes a number of years ago and needed custom sprockets inside plastic pulleys.
Fantastic work Paul! Just a hint for future projects; there is trike freewheel that would be perfect for this application. It’s a standard freewheel with flange and 4 holes. Love your channel.
Beautiful work, Paul !
I did not really get, what you are actually doing, but it was nice to watch anyway.
The shiny link is the master , you have to bend the chain with the oval side towards you as your bending it and the side of the link will come off
Thanks. I will try that in the morning...
as if there was a lip on the rivet and the two chain links were a little too big but too close( so that tension locks it)@@paulbrodie
I did figure it out. Just had to flex the chain and the larger side plate just pops off...
Hey Paul & Mitch, nice work on the Giraffe freewheel sprocket set! And it slipped past me that today's your birthday??? Be sure to do something fun today!
Thanks Tom. I did have a good day getting pickups and stuff for my bass project...
At first I was thinking it would be better to disassemble the freewheel and weld the skip tooth cog on. However this allows you to replace the freewheel fairly easy when needed.
Really neat adapter!
Thank you very much!
Hi Paul, great work as always! Could you have used the cassette carrier from a BMX hub then milled out the splined interface on the inside of your skip tooth sprocket to make it fit? Then you'd have to figure out how to integrate the cassette carrier with your bronze hub. That's going to make it easier if you want to change the sprocket size or the bearings!
Wowzer!
I couldn't believe how much bronze has gone up in last 4~5 years.
It's at least triple what it was last time I bought Aluminium Bronze to make valve guides.
I'm sure a lot of manufacturers are still using Covid 19 as an excuse to inflate prices?
Lucky you got that freewheel out, if part had been a little warmer when you tried for fit and freewheel a little cooler, the shrinkage/expansion may have made them a permanent one piece.
Yes, bronze is Not cheap. I bought bronze to make the rear hub (upcoming video..) and that chunk cost me $150... The Giraffe Bike is costing me dearly, but no regrets...
Nice work on that hub👍🏻
Maybe try grinding off the tops of the post on one side of the link you want to remove then use your chain breaker. That’s how I do it in motorcycle chains anyways.
Thanks Rick. The chain is completely the wrong size for my 2 chain breakers. No Go....
Cool as funk!
You don't understand that master link situation? For years that's all I ever knew. You bend the chain so the ends come closer together on the side with the plate that isn't scooped out. Then the larger plate pops off.
Yes, you are correct. I did figure it out. I have not experienced master links like that before...
brilliant!
Makes watch making look like heavy engineering😊
Very Cool 👍
Time to watch more of your videos.
I eventually wanna build another motorized bicycle that's much faster & safer at the higher speeds than my current 29in Mongoose Exhibit 40mph build. Although it was a very good build for cheap price tag.
I want a full suspension diy motoped style build without the motoped price tag. More like strong full suspension 26in BMX seating position bike for on & off road. The weak link on the 125cc 4 stroke motoped is the bicycle wheels & tires. If they used 19in moped wheels & tires. It could safely cruise at 45-55mph.
Thanks!
Perfect precision 👍, this is what is impressive about Masters of a trade. 🏆 🙏
very good job Mr paul
uuu, someone got a haircut 👍
You could have dissassembled the freewheel,, and welded to it,,,, works fine that way
Mr Paul. I am working on a hot rod project. I am having a set of aluminum centering rings made for a set of wheels. I want the ring to stay in the wheel when I take it off the car and not fall out. I would like a slight press fit to the ring either by hand or very slight tap with a small hammer. The ID of the wheel bore is 83.82mm do I go with an ring OD of 83.8 or 83.72 for a nice tight fit. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks.
Great video, Paul. Just wondering. Could you not have used a double keyed sprag clutch? Maybe i'm thinking in the wrong direction? Love the way you tackled the job. A pleasure to watch, as always.
Thanks. I'm not sure I have ever seen a double keyed spray clutch. I did this on the 1888 Whippet back in 2012, so this is actually the second time I have done this....
Beautiful work as always!
May I ask what % silver solder you like to use? Is it worth keeping a variety?
6:37 additive manufacturing? this is now a high-tech channel
Fantastic skills! Always a pleasure to watch you old timers. Do you guys have social security up north?
Thank you. Is social security like the pensions I receive?
Canada Pension Plan is similar I believe to US Social Security
Works for me!
Wow a dying art wasted on this generation and many more to come seems sad but it's true😢 thank you for the many years that you put in the bike industry and all the beautiful things that you've built over the years 🎉🎉
Even if I could do all these things, I’m pretty sure I’d set up the freewheel backwards.
I’ve had success welding the teeth on a freewheel to a larger sprocket. Controlling the heat is important to ensure you do not destroy the temper in the races of the freewheel. For this project it was worth your extra effort for aesthetics. I am a bit worried about the lifespan of your skip tooth sprocket. You annealed it then chose brazing instead of welding. I suspect it is going to be difficult to harden the sprocket again without the brazing coming undone. I doubt the bike will rack up the miles being more of an art piece but at some point in the future someone is going to need to do a ton of work to make a new rear sprocket. That point in time will come much sooner if you can’t re-harden the sprocket.
It might be a silly question, but isn’t skip-tooth exactly what it says on the tin - sprockets where every other teeth are missing? If that’s true, tooth pitch would be 2x modern 1/2” chain, and simple alternative solution to all this (enjoyable) machining would be to get a 18t bmx freewheel and grind every other teeth off of it. Would it work, or are those skip-tooth sprockets thicker? Chains are completely different, but are they wider than 1/8”?
the white freewheels are best if a guy who enjoys riding can afford another one nowadays
I've seen a lot of skip tooth cogs with that slot. I don't know what the slot is for but I'm going to look into it. Maybe someone here knows? Just the same, great project!
Anyone know what kind of bookshelf speakers those are in the back ground?
I do. Kef's. Bought them back in 1980...
What does the lime do? Is it to slow down the cooling which aid the reduction of the hardness
Steel is annealed by heating the metal to a high temperature then allowing it to cool slowly. The lime functions as insulation. One can also use ash from a wood fire.
@@troycongdon cheers for that
Silly question - since it is a skip-tooth chain, couldn't you simply remove every other tooth on the free wheel?
The modern chain and the skip tooth are so very different... I don't even have a chain breaker that will work on the skip tooth. The chain line would be affected too, because the skip tooth sprocket locates on the very edge of the freewheel, not in the middle. Skiptooth is 9 teeth, and the BMX has 14 teeth. So, it just won't work, but Thanks for commenting!
@@paulbrodie thank you for the thoughtful response. I enjoy your videos. Thanks
That much work for a loose ball bearing freewheel. I ride freewheel only all over creation everyday i can Loose ball freewheels need to be washed out before use The fluid they use for cutting is full of shavings if u dont wash them out redrip oil they wont last but about three months the white freewheel are best cant afford them now i still have 1
Oh no! Haircut...
Yes, and I only wanted a little taken off, and she took too much. I was not happy. Very hard to find people who understand what I want, even though I explained very carefully...
Why didn’t you just get an old Bendex hub. There are plenty of them still around. That skip cog would mount right up to it. I guess I don’t understand your bike and why you have to construct that.
Can someone explain the red hot then into lime part?
He has a piece of hardened steel. He wants to cut it on the lathe but it doesn’t cut well in the hardened state. He anneals the steel by heating it red hot then burying it in lime. The lime functions as an insulator to allow the steel to cool down over a longer period of time. Once annealed, he can cut the steel much easier.
@@troycongdon thank you. I was thinking the lime in particular had some chemical property significant to it all but you explained it well.
👨🏭👨🏭👨🏭👨🏭👨🏭👍
Your gonna want to wash that freewheel solvent before use use a little glass jar you will see all the shavings they dont care
6:25 тормоз....
Some video freeze glitches, mates. Otherwise, good to see you.
Where were the freeze glitches? Can you give a time stamp? Thanks.
@@mitchellnurseproductions 6:15 ish, 21:13 ish. Also, hi Mitch.
my left leg is numb alls i can pedal is 42 20
thats bad there all full of shavings cutting fluid
Can someone donate $15 bucks so poor paul doesnt have too cut his own hair again.....? Thanks guys