Building the engine on our FLOODED 1965 Chevy Corvair!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ม.ค. 2022
- Thanks so much for following along as we work to bring this classic back to life.
On previous videos, we've taken apart the engine on the Corvair, cleaned up the block, got everything prepped and ready for assembly. Today is the day where we finally get to see things come back together.
I'll walk you through how I tackle a project like this, measuring the bore taper, mic-ing the crank journals, measuring the ring gap, honing the bores, using a ridge reamer, and lapping the valves.
I also went ahead and installed an upgraded 9" clutch and new throwout bearing, so the squeak should be gone!
The engine is finally assembled and ready to install back in to the Corvair, but you'll have to wait until next time when we see if it will run again!
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Thanks for watching, God bless, and we'll see you later!
Sean, Christie, and the Auto Anatomy team. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
It is nice to watch you working on a cold air after all these years it reminds me of working at the Chevy dealer I used to love the job of putting blower bearings in and fixing the rattling stick shift flywheels which I was able to shortcut and made a lot of money a lot of people don't know that the factory put out some gasoline heaters in those days and I remember working on many of them will you call them Road Oilers one of the big problems they had is the pushrod O-rings we're not very good and they always leaked find memories thank you
Thank you for the basic run through!!
I did a couple of them in the 1970's. I learned the hard way to always put a new. Input shaft seal in always on assembly.
Thank you again!! Well done my friend!!!
Great video explaining the mysteries of the flat 6! Makes me want to go ahead and locate on of these cars to wrench on!
Thanks, and you should! They're great little cars.
Telescoping bore gauge I used to use for die measuring in the ceramics industry. We built sonars. Ridge reamer is new to me. Damn!, everything checked out perfectly. Happy you got a good engine. Simple design for economic and reliable transportation. SWEET !!!
Also, 40 years ago, I wrote an article on how to set screw the cam gear to the camshaft, they can come loose, especially on manual shift cars. And the only way to fix it, is a complete teardown to split the block and pull the cam
That's awesome, I wish I had done so when the engine was apart. Thanks for checking out my little channel!
What a nice engine...it looks like it just came from the Chevy engine assembly plant (in Tonawanda NY)!!
I am extremely surprised that you didn't pull apart the rear housing and oil filter adaptor casting pieces. There are gaskets between them and the block. and there are passages which may have gotten water inside. The oil pump is also in there. That and the bronze helical cut distributor drive gear on the crank should at least have been inspected. One component which I have seen fail is a pressure bypass valve, made of a fibrous material. I wish I had seen this video series earlier, I'd have suggested that you go a little further in your disassembly.
I had gone through these pieces previously but didn’t show it on camera. It all got disassembled and checked, I even rebuilt the oil pump and plastigauged/shimmed the pump for proper clearances. Thanks for watching!
Had one right out of High School in 1970. Enjoyed it a lot.
Maybe this will inspire you to get another!
Great video series! At 8:00, it's easy to ID the top of the jug by the bigger/longer fins.
Having the removable upper engine cover makes installing the rods easier than the Volkswagen method of mounting the rods and then installing the cylinders.
I really enjoyed your video. Great job cleaning it and reassembly. It is going to run great!
Thank you, and I hope so!!
my dad got me a ridge reamer for my first build a283 in my 1966 impala inn 1972
Nice work! Engine work isn’t as big of a deal as many people think. Nice job explaining ever step. Plus nice Autoanatomy apron!
Thanks and thank you!
Don't forget the oil!
Great video once again. Excited to see the engine back in the car!
Thanks! I’m ready to fire it up as well!
Engine looks excellent, well done Sean👌🏻
Enjoying this video Sean!
You're explaining everything fine.
Showing specs and explaining them as well..
Thank you!
keeping it running.Walnut/glass bead the cylinders and make it easier to cool the cylinders properly. New bearings, rings, and so forth will keep it running a lot longer. Stock valves only came with seals on the intake despite the fact that it is the exhaust that has the most vacuum on it when running...what they didn't know back then and what we know now...amazing. Chrome rings need an absolutely round almost perfect cylinder in the installed position to seal. You should have gone with moly rings.
The ring ridge is caused by the top piston ring, unless there is excessive rod bearing wear the ring should not contact the ridge
Awesome job! Reminds me of a red 65 Monza I was forced to let go of...
Here soon, you could have a blue 65 Monza…
Hello Sean. Really enjoyed watching you rebuild that engine. Those valve seals will make a great difference. Looks like there was very little wear if any. Great Job!
George B. in Michigan
Thanks 👍. Doesn't look like too much wear at all to me either.
I will be doing this in a few months. Thanks for the tutorial.
Thanks, and best of luck!
Great video man
Thank you!
Don’t need seals on exhaust valves cause they don’t have vacuum to suck oil in
Excellent!
thanks!
I hope you pointed the vents in the top cover away from the direction of the crankshaft. Easy to overlook, and otherwise you'll be pushing oil into the top cover, and it'll end up inside the balance tubes, and sucked back into the engine. Easy to overlook
Now you have me paranoid! I re-installed it the way that it was removed, so hopefully someone put it on correctly.
@@AutoAnatomy it's hard to know which way it goes, unless you think of the rotation of the crankshaft, and I guess you'll know if you put it the wrong way, because it'll be spitting out oil from the vent tube, that runs into the carbs. It sticks out through the top shroud
Don't hold a valve with a drill. Get some rod, put one end in the drill then use some silicon tube to connect the rod to the valve.
Good tip!
This may be a little nitpicking but when the starter was out you could have put in a new set of brushes. Just a thought.
Nice job so far . Those valve stem seals were old and probably the originals. If so no wonder they were falling apart.
I think you're right that should help with any oil burning.
Believe it or not, I actually pulled the starter apart because I thought about painting the housing black again. If I have to pull the starter again for any reason, I'll paint the housing and replace the brushes and maybe the bearings.
It's easy for me to be a armchair quarterback .
I have forgotten things I wished I done after the job is done.
i would reverse the drill when moving the valve.
we alwas,s use stp on all barings, cam, rings ect
I've used STP before and it works great as an assembly lube
I have a question. I bought my daughter a 65 monza 140hp with 4 carbs (BIGGEST HEADACHE EVER). Question is. There is some type on sensor in the rear by the heads with two wires coming out. The 2 cables were stripped and loose. Could you tell me where those plug in at? Looks like a temperature sensor maybe oil pressure switch. Not sure I am new to corvairs
Bonjour, merci pour la video. Petite question: y a t il un sens au joint que vous posez entre le cylindre et le bloc moteur? Séquence a 9"50 sur votre video.
Merci
Merci d'avoir regardé, mon français est très simple.
Il joint le bas du cylindre au bloc.
Sean
You didn't change the oil control rings or oil the bores?
No, they’re new oil control rings and I did oil the bores. Just didn’t show every single step
What manual are you using there?
It’s a reproduction of the factory shop manual
I may have missed it, how many miles were on engine?
Around 60k, if I remember.
I would not let this guy work on an engine of mine
Me either
You're going to wish you put a bolted and welded flywheel in if you haven't already. Cool video otherwise.
Yeah, it was certainly an option but if it starts rattling I'll pull the engine again. It's not terribly hard on this car and could probably pull it in 30 min now.
i thought the bore were 4.437on the corvair are you sure that you had the correct micrometer reading
My shop manual has 3.4370", other sites I've seen have 3.4375. The biggest concern is that there isn't a taper from top to bottom. I also haven't calibrated my micrometer, so that could account for the slight variation
@@AutoAnatomy yeah something was wrong with either the reading or the micrometer .the divisions on the barrel are .025 and of course the thimble are .001
There air cooled, exhaust needs the extra oil. It seems VW's are the same
Makes sense, thanks!
Not a machinist but worked with them for nearly 40 years. Some of the things I was taught by machinists. You are probably 99% wrong measuring a hole with a two point micrometer. Should use a Tri Mic 3 point and even then depth and angle are critical. The measuring of a shaft needs similar cautions per angle and slope. I myself couldn't invest in Tri Mic's they are way to expensive but one can take the items to a qualified machine shop have the parts measured. When you see this done correctly you'll see what I'm talking about.
But, you DON'T "...drop it in the car...". THIS is a Corvair.
your honeing sucks/ dont u use a ball hone, use a flat hone,, 180 grit in the jugs!
That is the WRONG exhaust on the car. Wrong year
How so? What is this exhaust from?
The 110's all had a single right side exhaust pipe. This one is not the factory tailpipe as it would have turned hard right underneath the rear end, and the muffler was oval and not round. Otherwise it's correct. The 140.s all had dual muffs.