4L30E Disassembly
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ต.ค. 2024
- 1994 Isuzu Rodeo
I did a horrible job with the editing on this one, sorry.
Parts list did not make it in the video. Put a Superior K4L30E and Transgo SK4L30E in it when you rebuild it. On the Transgo kit I only put the bushing in, do not drill it. I drill the holes in the Superior kit only.
PATREON: / curmudgeontransmission
Supplier Links:
Superior: superiortransm...
Transtar: www.transtar1....
WIT: www.wittrans.com/
Sonnax: www.sonnax.com/
Teckpak/Fitzall: www.teckpak-fi...
Transgo: transgo.com/
Precision of New Hampton: gopnh.com/
Atec Transtool: www.toolsource... - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Without this video I would’ve never known where the check balls were supposed to go, since they fell out when I removed the plate. Doing gods work! Thank you
Glad to help, thanks for watching.
This dude is a bad ass! Love how he knows all the parts positions 😮
Thanks for watching.
good catch on the backwards sun gear.. and without a Manuel....amazing..
I’m currently in the process of repairing my gfs rodeo transmission. It had been rebuild before but they missed the thrust washer that goes on the bearing between the second drum and the sun gear, so the bearing exploded and took the planetary gearset with it. Amazingly all the clutches and everything else is in mint shape. Your video is super helpful
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching.
TCT .... my 4l30e dosent engage 1 n 2 gear , i have to drive it in power mode "3rd gear" , intrenet says solenoid for 1st n 2nd gear or band adjustment needed , what do you recommend ..........TIA ....
I would check the band adjustment first. Is this before or after rebuild?
Hello Tom, great video! I have an 00 Passport with this transmission that was sitting in a garage for years. It shifts perfectly up and down all the gears when it's cold, but as it warms up it will lose overdrive. It'll shift out of 3rd, but OD won't engage and it'll look like i flipped into neutral. This only happens after running long enough for the transmission to get warm. Any ideas on the fix?
First I would check for codes in the computer. It sounds like it may be downshifting into a lower gear. You would need to monitor the computer to know for sure. A scan tool MIGHT show you the info you need. The older 4l30's did not show data, so it may not. If it doesn't here is an article that shows you what needs to be done. I have a feeling it may be a bad shift solenoid or dirty neutral switch. You can take the neutral switch apart and clean it, no need to buy one unless the wires are messed up. atracom.blob.core.windows.net/gears/2003/2003-08/2003_8_26.pdf
What transmission fluid would you recommend for this transmission as these days Dexron 3 is hard to find at any of my local auto shops.
Thank you for this video. I think i can tackle this now.
Hmm, still readily available at the parts stores around me. You will have to find something that is equivalent. You are not going to want to use Dex VI or anything that is thin like that. You can get it from Transtar or WIT, links are in the description. I know some people use Amsoil, but it is expensive.
can you tell more about how i expect the busher is bad that burns the band often.
rebuilt (only) 4l30e for 11 years but last month one gearbox made me crazy. rebuilt, drive for 2 weeks in hard conditions, everything is ok, give the car to costumer, after 2 hours band burned (4 seleoid new, tcc-band-A-B)
rebuilt again, drive for 1 week in very very hard conditions, everything is ok, give the car, 1 day later burned band and 3rd. but this time there is no reverse too. but everything is ok about reverse.(no burned clutch, no broken 3rd shift's counter bearing)
there is no evidence for burn the band.
car and trans same as cadillac catera (1998) but its opel brand. there is no dtc or electric problem. no evidence slip band or etc, before give the car. made external cooler. and i rebuilt new trans for the car and it is still drives good so costumer's driving skills ok too. no problem about band adjustment.
I am very curious about this. (kits comes from usa and very expensive)
thank you.
The bushing that is in the center support that seals the third drum can get worn and cause the band to burn. Also the bore for the servo wears and causes it to burn also. Transgo sells the bushing and Superior has a kit for the servo. I put the Superior kit in every build and the Transgo one if the bushing looks worn. I also set the band tighter than what it calls for. I usually end up at about 4 and 1/2 turns.
I know this is old but I took my pan down and the filter. All the way to the main trans body. The check balls fell out. How can I have the one stay in while I have it all upside down?
Place it on the separator plate and put some Vaseline on the ball to keep it from moving. Try to go up straight to keep from knocking the ball out of place. Or you can get some green Dr. Tranny lube and place the ball in the case, should hold it long enough.
Wow ...usted es todo un maestro ...gracias por hacer este video y compartir...
Thanks for watching.
Awesome video, warching just in case my 528i dies. It work fine but if i send high power to it, it kind of kicks and im afraid something might be broken inside.
Thanks for watching. Scan for codes first.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thanks, but i do believe there is damage to it. Since the "mechanic" u bought it from said the transmission was damage, amd when i was about to drop it found out, 0 oil jaja put new oil and drove it across country with 0 issues obvious never floor it. Drove it very smoothly
En espAnol
Mr. Self Destruct... Nine Inch Nails.
"I am an Exit"......
Transmission Life.......
It has been two years since you have posted this HAHAHA! I am on a part hunt. Do you know where to get a dowel pin for that transmission?
Looks like Ebay has them. www.ebay.com/itm/335110156638?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&campid=5338590836&toolid=10044&customid=67d9674a6bac1962dffe017ab027ca53
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Sir I would bake you a pie for finding that for me. I have been looking up and down the deep dark web for that dang dowel pin. Thank you so much!!!
So what happens when the pump washer breaks? I found mine in 4 pieces in the overdrive pan when I was replacing the solenoids.
The drum starts wearing on the back of the pump and end play becomes excessive. If you found it in the rear pan that is the washer between the 2nd drum and the support. Pump washer you will find in the front pan.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you for answering my question. I have two of these transmissions. One in a 01 rodeo that started leaking between the two pans and a 00 passport that started shifting funny. I got the passport to avoid pulling the transmission on the rodeo. Now I have to pull both. Makes me envy the 70's when things were simple.
Ok,....2008 ram 1500 112k 4.7 545rfe I had this prob with my truck with the solenoid shift pack being defective with this truck. Ok, I got a replacement part(mopar 30 day warranty) Ebay..$250 with fluid, changed it out along with the TRS plate when I was going throug the gears a couple 3 times after it been replaced at one point I heard a crunching sound now I'm getting a new issue. "Only" on a cold start and being on a slight incline in my driveway overnight Once I start it and "Immediately" try to place it in gear it has about 10-15 second delay to go into gear. If you just sit without putting it in gear for that amount of time or little longer then it goes into gear right away..Once that passes it runs very good, shifts really good. I had it what they called "relearn" and still nothing,,,The only thing I can think of is the part is defective. I did have it in a transmission shop initially for the solemoid shift pack which confirmed the original defective Pack. then I replaced it took it back to them and they put it on their computer and could not dublicate it during an over night issue so I am guessing it was on level ground they said it was shifting fine and couldn't fine anything. o-ring seal was changed out both filters changed
I could use any ideas at this point.. my plan is to take to the dealer
when my neighbor and I during the replacement notice the plate had some groves in it compared to the new one that didn't have any we weren't sure to change it out so we did. in my opinion seems like it loses it fluid prime
Do you know what may of happend???
Genuine Mopar OEM 45RFE 545RFE 68RFE Shift Solenoid Block Pack with TRS Plate
(324428341261)
If you replaced the plate that came with the solenoid assembly you should be ok. I would be careful of parts on Ebay. They have similar looking packaging but are not always the same as dealer parts. I believe they are coming from China. If there is a big price difference there is a reason, it's not the same. Have been having a big rash of bad filters lately. Mostly from WIT. Would also be suspect of getting filters from the bay. Some have had holes drilled in them and were easy to see the problem , others looked fine but were no good. I would start with factory filters and possibly getting a known factory solenoid assembly. Bare minimum change your filters again.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Appreciate your fast response I do think your right should I buy from the dealer and replace again myself as far as filter(s) I got it from RockAuto I also changed out the those twice in last 4 months thinking it was one of those filters dealer wants $482
@Guess Who Don't know about Rock Auto as I have never dealt with them so can not say one way or the other. I would get the filters from the dealer to be safe. I will say that the ones that have been a problem lately, The main filter has a rubber plug on the side that faces towards the valve body. The spin on filter make sure that the rubber under where the holes are is not right up against the housing. Also if it has the plastic threaded adapter make sure that is tight before you put the filter on otherwise it will loosen up and fall off. The one with the metal threads made onto the housing is the best but the plastic is fine as long as you make sure that is tight first. The dealer was selling the whole valve body with solenoid assembly cheaper than just the solenoid for a while there but I think they have wised up to it, might ask, might get lucky. The filters that are coming from China are pure junk. Everything is in short supply right now and our parts suppliers are slipping those in because it is what they have. Very hard to tell the difference sometimes, but the tell tell is it does not work. You will have delays, buzzing noises and other problems, among them burning up your transmission. Cheaper is not better. there is a reason it is cheaper especially if it is a lot cheaper.
TSB 21-007-06 covers delayed engagement - they probably put the wrong filter on the cooler return. And they should know better? Which should be a clue as to where not to take it too.
f01.justanswer.com/05muranosl/68bab69c-5666-456f-8131-0209daddb252_Dodge_TSB_21-007-06_%E2%80%94_RFE_Transmission_Filters.pdf
Sonnax sells a pump body valve that is supposed to help with converter drain back issues, but the transmission has to come down at the very least I would think.
sonnax 44912-17K
www.sonnax.com/parts/5278-lube-regulated-pressure-regulator-valve
WIX filter kits 58843 is for the deep pan 4WD tranny and the 58846 is for the shallow 2WD.
hey tom this is Brian if you see this message I use to work with you at AAMCO in Everett wa. if you don't remember I was retiring out of the army and now I have my own build shop in mossyrock, wa. WE JUST STARTED SB AUTOMOTIVE AND THANKS FOR ALL YOUR GREAT KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE YOUR SHARING.
Thanks for watching. I think you have me confused with someone else. While I have worked for AAMCO, Washington is one of the few states I have never been to.
How are these units on reliability?
They are not a very good unit, IMHO. They had tons of problems with the 3 speed transmission it is based off of, and it just carried over into the 4 speed.
Hello Tom, I love your videos! So I have this Isuzu Rodeo 4x4 with a 4L30E that only runs in 1st gear forward and reverse, but no 1-2 shift or any higher. At about 2500rpm the first gear just disengages and the engine runs away unloaded. I have replaced the 1-2 and 2-3 shift solenoids but still no improvement. The oil pan was reasonably clean and no major metal or friction material in it, and the Rodeo only has about 85K miles on the odometer. What could be the problem? Thanks!
Thanks. Do you have a scanner and does this vehicle show data on the scanner? Some do not.
Hey Tom, can you answer to my question? I have Opel Omega(Cadillac Cartera) eith 4L30-E transmission. My transmission reverser normally but when moving forward I have to shift out of D to 2nd gear and when I press accelerator it moves after 3-6 seconds with 2k+ rews. After that one time "acceleration" it does move after stopping, but it moves very slowly, but when I reach 40kmh+(25mph+) it works almost normally, kickdown doesnt work. But if I have shifter in D and I press snow symbol (hard pulling?) it works perfectly until I press kickdown and then it shifts to 1st gear and pulls for 1secodn and then goes to neutral and after 2-5secodns it just puts 3rd gear on and goes in limp mode. What should look for first in the transmission?
Thanks in advance.
What codes are in the system?
P0730- gear artio incorrect
P1842- fuel injection quantity incorrect signal
P0722- output speed censor circuit no signal@@CurmudgeonTransmission
I would be looking at the sprag and band.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Hey Tom, I got used transmission from salvage yard and have installed it. This new transmission doesnt engage in gear, not in reverse or any other gears. So now I have 4 neutrals. With selector in D position I got it to move few inches when reving the crap out of the engine. When it got this new transmission it was from gasoline car so I had to take turbine housing bell? from the old transmission (diesel engine M51 bmw). ATF circulates in transmission, I checked it from cooling lines. I am in the dead end with my little knownledge, so once again im asking help or guidance from you. Sorry if this is hard to read, english isnt my first language. Thanks in advance!
@@korte2264 Might have ripped the gasket that seals between the case and the pump. Might be a bad pump or clogged filter. Also, there are 2 different pumps and lock up circuits. Easiest way to tell if they are the same is to look at the end of the input shaft. One has a capsule in the end of it and one is hollow. They are not interchangeable.
02 rodeo v6. I have a 3-4 flare. What's the typical cause of it. Just bought it used 119k on it. I'm going to replace fluid, filter and clean the solenoids.
These don't normally flare into 4th. It is possible you have either a solenoid or accumulator problem but it could be more than that also.
Hi Tom, my 2000 rodeo has same transmission. My problem is my car could not go up, I can drive only flat land and also so slipper clutching even that surface. I guess my clutches burn out right and need to replace? Should I also change all the solenoid valves or just enough couches and o-rings ? Thanks in advance
Sounds like it might be in failsafe. Are there any codes in the system?
if you had to make sure you did a good job on an unknown tranny history with a kit which one would you get and what other things might you get that the kit doesnt have? I am going to try to do this myself. Also are there tutorial vids on the 4l30? And are their connection kits for the different vuhicles these trannies come in? Thanks in advance
Get a Transtec kit with Raybestos clutches. Almost always needs a band. Pump bushing, washer kit and filter. Both shift solenoids and band solenoid. Best to get factory on those. If you cannot get factory, do not use any Chinese made ones or Rostra. Superior Kl30E kit. I do everything in the kit but the springs. If you want to put the springs in, DO NOT put that stiff black spring in. You will be pulling it back apart to take it out. You will not like the shifts. Transgo kit, only put the bushing in, no drilling. Torque converter, Precision of New Hampton makes a good one. Make sure and match everything about it before you give the core up. Then whatever else is bad in there. I have a few videos on building the 2 versions, I am sure there are others on TH-cam. One of the videos has the wrong edit in the there and the cushion plate for 3rd is upside down. It is mentioned in the description and in captions if you have them turned on.
hello sir, I would like to know if the 4L30E transmission is compatible with the isuzu rodeo ls v6 3.2 2001, or if you have a transmission reference for this car model? please.
Yes, it is a 4L30E.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission ok thank u Sir
Hello Tom. I have an '01 Isuzu Rodeo with this transmission and the shop I am using has rebuilt it twice in the last 4 years and are telling me it needs a rebuild once again for $3500 because this transmission is a bad design so it will only last 2 years. I see your links above, are there better parts that will last longer? Thanks.
They are not one of the best designed transmissions. They are based on the three-speed version called TH180C, which was not a great unit either. A lot of shops will not even touch them. There are a couple of kits that you can put in to help. One is the Transgo kit, the other is made by Superior. The only thing I use from the Transgo kit is the bushing. Don't go mixing kits together as far as drilling and making modifications. You can get into a real mess doing that. But since you are only using the bushing, you would be ok. Use OEM quality solenoids, usually only need to replace the 2 shift solenoids and the band solenoid. There are cheap knock-off solenoids out there from China and they are nothing but trouble. Use a quality rebuild kit, I prefer Transtec with Borg Warner or Raybestos clutches. This is one that you do not want to use the cheaper clutches in. Quality Band as well. Cases are always worn out in the servo bore for the band. The Superior kit will address that, or you will need to bore the case out and put an oversized bushing in it to fix it. Sonnax sells that. I believe there are others that do as well, I use the Superior kit, it's the easiest fix.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thanks for the great advice, I will let the shop know your recommendations, much appreciated!
Howdy, Tom-I am into a 4L30e out of an 02 Rodeo, fun little machine. I was having 2-3 flares and ended up putting the translab shift correction kit in it. Kinda fixed it; sometimes flared, sometimes not. Fast forward to yesterday and blew the OD accumulator cover out, had my own little Exxon Valdez in the middle of the street. Got it out and torn down and surprisingly most of the frictions look good with exception of a couple of 2/3 pack frictions and steels. The OD planet ring gear surface where the thrust washer looks terrible as well as the washer. What would smoke this thrust washer/ring gear surface (maybe incorrect end-play somewhere? Also, I cant seem to find the actual piston replacement for the OD accumulator, only the cover-is this by design? Would love if Sonnax had a pinless for this. Anyhow, its getting all new seals/steels/frictions/bushings/bearings/TC; anything to which I should pay special consideration during this? (I plan on putting the superior & Transgo kits in this as you have noted. Thank you!
Are we talking the 2-tab metal washer or the plastic washers? The metal washer is not a common failure, the plastic ones are. They have some horrible machining, especially on the side towards the second drum. I would recommend you replace those washers. They are selective so you will need to measure them. Air check the second drum once you get the drum assembled back together and make sure it is not cracked by where the plastic washer rides. I always put new shift solenoids and band solenoid in it. Don't use the crappy Chinese, Rostra or the ones that come in Transtar boxes. Pop for the few extra bucks and get at least the Borg Warner ones. Factory is best. Make sure the gaskets on the separator plate in the OD housing were not on the wrong sides, if they are you will never get rid of the flare. The bathtub cutout goes towards the check ball, the 2 hole one goes toward the valve body. I don't put the Translab kit in so I am not sure what they have you do. If there was any drilling involved you will want to be careful mixing kits together. If you can post the instructions on my Instagram and I will look at them and let you know what I think. Only put the Transgo bushing in, don't do any of the drilling it asks for. Put the whole Superior kit in except the black spring in the pump.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission I’ll grab those instructions, but if I recall I changed a spring in the aux valve body, and plugged/drilled a smaller hole in the sep plate in the main valve body, similar to what you do in the 4L30e assembly vid. I couldn’t do the other stuff without tearing the trans out so I did what I could get to. I followed your lead in the aux valve body assembly, noting “ask me how I know” when it came to having a flare 😂.
The thrust washer is the 2 tab metal; it’s pretty bad. I got the band and drum out earlier today, the drum is really burned. I’ll be springing for one of them. I’ll get that info over to you on instagram. I’ll if I can’t post the questionable items as well. Thank you sir. Your insight and experience are invaluable. I appreciate it.
Wow! Mesmerized by the tear down. Had my rodeo 4L30E replaced at 330k miles with a used transmission with 130k miles. The guy that did it said the "housing" wears out and rebuilding wouldn't be worth it. It was totally slipping at the time so I was happy for the swap. After watching this video I again question the explanation he gave me. Since the old transmission has been sitting in my enclosed garage for the last 5 years and after watching this video... is it truly not worth rebuilding?
Yes the case wears out in the servo bore. They are not a great transmission. If you do all the kits I suggest you have a good shot at it working. They either work good or you have nothing but problems with burning the band.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission what are the symptoms of the burning the band?
Slipping in 1st and 2nd. No forward if bad enough.@@mytuube11
Fantastic Video Tom. I need some advice with my 4L30E. It is throwing up "error 100 - Gear Monitoring" with thumps in the drivetrain when shifting. Can you give me any ideas on what the problem may be?. Thanks in advance.
Sounds like this is in a BMW? If you can get data on your scanner watch the lock up slip. Probably your problem is there if everything is seeming to work fine, just firm shifts. Firm shifts are from line pressure being elevated from a code being in the system. If you clear the code are shifts fine until it resets the code? Problem is there are a ton of things that can set a gear monitoring code. Would be nice if there was a code accompanying it.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank-you for your reply, also, Sorry Tom, yes it's a '98 BMw 318i. The error code it throws is #100. After clearing codes , it still has hard shifts, also on deceleration can get a thump as down shifting, until the dreaded cog lights up on the dash. this is the scan data:
100 gear monitoring
Error frequency : 1
Logistic counter: 62
Operating hours counter 1994.70 hours
Circuit runs 0.00 0/1
Gear engagement 0.00 0/1
Upshift 1.00 0/1
Reset 0.00 0/1
Last shift: upshift 2->3 34.00 0-n
Transmission oil temperature 75.00 degrees C
Output speed 2560.00 rpm
Plausibility
Error present at the moment
I would start by looking at the lock up function.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you for the guidance. Good health to you.
I have a 1999 rodeo when you come to a stop it fills like the trans is steel turning too fast and then it hits real hard on the down shift-I was thinking maybe the torque converter was still spinning and that it was the problem--no-yes-any thoughts-I'm not going to pay $2.700 for a reman-and aamco wants $2.000 to rebuild mine- I do not have the skill to rebuild it myself-If it was the torque converter I could do that
Do the backup lights illuminate when you put it in reverse? Are there any codes in the system?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission only one code ( O2 SENSOR ) Backup lights are good
Torque converter is not going to be the problem. It could be an internal problem, high line pressure, TPS or Neutral Switch problem. You might try fixing the O2 sensor problem first. Depending on what is causing that problem it can affect line pressure. You can clean the neutral switch on these. If you watch the rebuild video, I do it in the video. The only way you will know if it is a line pressure problem is to put a gauge on it.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission now that you bring it up-i do not know if you mean the neutral safety switch-but I can put the car in gear without butting my foot on the brake peddle
The way the system works is that when you push the brake pedal it activates a park lock solenoid that lets you remove it from park. It could be that you have an electrical problem. Start by checking your fuses.
I have a 94 rodeo with the same transmission. It shifts Into 2nd gear really hard. And Only happened about 2 times where it feels like it's slipping in 1st gear also. Fluid level was low I topped it up but it still shift hard into 2nd but it hasn't slipped yet since. Could this be a solenoid or is it something mechanical?
Is this before or after a rebuild?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission this transmission hasn't been touched as far as I know. 212k miles.
Have you had the system scanned for codes? Is the check engine light on?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission no, no codes. Cel is on but it's for the tps sensor.
Fix the TPS first. Should fix your problem. If it does not get back to me.
2k Isuzu 4L30E, have a pwm lockup solenoid code. My transmission guy says the valve inside the pump is bad and doesn't rebuild the pump but uses a reman pump. I am limited on funds and just want to fix the issue. If it's just a solenoid I'm fine but if it's the pump, would I be able to fix it instead of spending the $600 for a reman pump?
Without being able to look at the pump and seeing the damage I would not be able to say for sure. What is the specific code you are getting?
P1860, it shifts out fine thru all 4 gears with no surge or flair. This is a recent acquisition for me. This truck has been sitting since 2014. I pulled the trans pans and resealed them before I started the used engine I installed. I filled according to manual.
1860 is an electrical code not a mechanical one. So you either have a bad solenoid, wire or computer. If it has been sitting for a while I would check wires first. Rodents like to live inside the engine compartment and chew on wires. Of course all electrical checks need to start with a good battery and connections. A good battery will check at 12.6 volts after having sat with the engine off for a while, even overnight. If it is less than that it is bad even if it will start the vehicle.
Thank you for your help, I will check these issues next week and let you know what happens. Have a great weekend 😀
Update: while it took me longer to get to the circuit test, the tcc solenoid tested bad. Installed new solenoid and lockup started working. Thank you for your info, it was very helpful.
Só um dos angolanos que gosto tanto de assistir os seus trabalhos
Thanks for watching.
Excelente video 🎉🎉🎉
Thank You
Muy buen video
Thanks
Gracias muy bueno excelente
Thank you
Thanks
No problem
What is the name of the tool for that last gaer
If you are talking about the one for the 3rd drum here is a number. If not give me a reference as far as time wise in the video. T-1085-A TH180 4L30E TRANSMISSION THIRD CLUTCH SNAP RING COMPRESSOR TOOL www.transmissionpartsusa.com/
there is a steel bar in windshield wiper. cut 5-6cm parts from it and bend 90 degree. you must thin out a little or half. i use 3 pin usually.