Larry’s quality of work and breadth of knowledge is unparalleled. Thank you so much for having made the time and effort to document and share your expertise.
Awesome! Now alls I need is a lathe, lathe tooling, hours of machining experience, a tig welder, gas bottles, hours of welding experience, a few hundred dollars in specialty files, and some sandpaper. Thanks Larry!
Many commentators have asked, "why not just buy a screw?" A few replies have mentioned that Gun screws are not the common screws you'd find at a hardware store. That's correct. The thread pitches are often very different. For example, 6-48 and 8-40 are common scope base screw sizes, both of which are classified as National Specials. The likelihood of finding a 6-48 or 8-40 screw at your local hardware store is slim, yet those are the more common of the uncommon gun screws. There are other thread pitches used in guns that are far less common and you won't find them at supply houses like Grainger, Fastenal, etc. Some are proprietary and/or completely obsolete. Next consider the head. Some gun screws have a head that is shaped for a particular purpose. Diameter and thickness are critical. Some slotted screws have ultra thin slots which require a ultra thin screwdriver blade. Again, these sorts of screws are not available at the local hardware store and in many cases not available online. A comment was made that all a person has to do is shop Ebay and wait for whichever screw to become available. Unfortunately, although shopping Ebay, Gunbroker, gun parts supply houses may turn up what you're looking for, often that's not the case. Sitting on a customer's gun for 6-months in the hopes that a screw shows up on Ebay is NOT a good way to do business. There's also the really strong possibility that if/when a used screw becomes available, that the slot will be damaged as well. Often we have to make a screw because a replacement is unavailable and the original screw is missing. Often we have to fix a screw slot because a replacement is not available and waiting is not an option. That's the spirit of the video and hopefully this explains the context of the repair a little better for those of you who are confused.
I understand screws back then weren't standardized like we are used to today. My question is this: why not dress down the top of the screw while it was on the lathe?
@@Kazhrei You'd have to get below the damage. Depending on how bad or deep that damage is, you may end up removing too much off the top of the screw head. By removing material from the top of the screw head, you make the slot shallower. A shallower slot means the screw driver is more likely to slip and climb out of the slot, causing damage to the the screw head. Another problem is that not all screw heads shape, thicknesses and designs lend themselves to reshaping or thinning on the lathe. A good example is a Marlin Model 60 front takedown screw. Big truss shaped head and no practical way to turn it down to fix screw slot damage without making it paper thin. If the screw head has been turned down, and the slot is now too shallow, you could deepen it a little bit. The key word is LITTLE. If you cut the screw slot too deep, when you turn a tight screw, the head will break at the slot. Your reward is a stuck screw with half a head. Screws usually get messed up when the wrong screwdriver is used. A standard screwdriver blade is wedge shaped, instead of hollow ground. Gunsmithing screw slots have parallel sides and are not tapered. Using a standard (wedge shaped) screw driver blade in a straight slot results in the top of the slot being pried upwards. Using a narrow tip standard screw driver in a wide slot does similar damage or worse damage. Screw slots with minor damage are easily fixed. If the screw has material that's been pried upwards, rather then welding, the damaged material is peened downwards, back down into the screw slot. You can use a punch or small ball peen hammer to do this. The slot is then cleaned up using something like a screw slot or needle file. This only works if the damage isn't extreme and the material is still present at the top of the screw. If some of the displaced material is missing, peening won't restore it, welding will.
@@johntremblay704 With the screw head built up with the welder, I don't think you would have any problem taking the screw down too far, unless you were just sloppy on the lathe at that point. If he could file it down, why not just turn it down?
You took a long time to say this is a specialist screw. Ok, fine. So buy a suitable replacement. Possibly from the maker or other supplier. It seems likely to be a common problem and there will almost certainly to be a relatively cheap replacement.
Potter field your a true American ! I love your ingenuity, patience, attention to detail, love and passion for gun smithing! Your an inspiration. Cuz I know I don't have a 10th of the patience to do a 10th of the projects you tackle !! Great Job !
Larry you are most certainly the man!! that's just amazing!! You critics are too harsh about this, ease up, you're really not thinking this through. You don't necessarily need the 10,000$s worth of kit. Guns have been around waaay longern TIG. You can do this with a jewelers tip on an oxy-acetylene rig if you have the cahonies and the dexterity. No lathe? chuck the screw in your drill/drillpress and carefully polish with sanding block or file until perfect. Thanks Mr. Potterfield you're an inspiration!! This is the 2nd time your brilliant ideas have fixed my guns
Where are all of these old people? I feel like they were everywhere when I was a kid. Now they are like albino deer. You never see them around anymore. And the stuff they say. " I'm Tom Potter and that's the way it is" who says that? It's just something that I have come to love. Ol' grampa Tom in his gunsmith shop.
“Because we couldn’t locate a mine close by, we decided to smelt some iron ore we had laying around the shop using an Acme ‘Smelt it Yourself’ shop foundry from Brownell’s.”
After extraction of metal from its ore. Using the proper hammer, like this blacksmithing hammer from Brownells. We're going to coax the iron around this rod to form the barrel. It's a long teadeus process but with time and effort the gun barrel practically makes it's self...
A miller Dynasty 200 TIG welder like the one he has in the video is less than half of the $8000 price tag you mentioned. And you can get other brands much, much cheaper. The Lincoln Square Wave TIG 200 is just under $2000 with free shipping on Amazon. And if you are a gunsmith or have any level of fabrication shop, you likely already have a welder for other things. And some of these screws are no longer made by anyone, anywhere. So if you want the proper screw, you have to repair it or make a new one.
Because he wanted to show, how you can do it without lathe. I repaired screwheads like this without the lathe with the file only. It requires more time and patience, but still it is possible to achieve good results.
The non standard screw does not just lay around in hardware store across the street. You have to order it from the rifle manufacturer (thats if hes still in bussines), pay 100x price of the part for shipping and wait weeks for it to arrive.
Will, it's a screw, not a nut. But say you have an old gun, like something from late 1800 ... it's going to be hard to find a matching screw. For everything else, yeah, buy one, even at $10 it would be easier/cheaper!
I don't think many of the viewers understands the rarity of certain screws in firearms. Sometimes there is simply no choice other than to fix the old one.
Larry makes it look soooo easy, then when you try to do it 1st you melt the screw to slag because you didn't adjust the welder right then you nearly kill the cat ,because you didn't chuck it up right, finally you get pissed and chuck the Frankenstein screw in the Trash then just order a new one
So the bottom line is ... be careful with your screwdriver unless you have a Tig Welder and lathe! I thought it would be simple until I heard "tig welder"... LOL, simple for Larry..
How many people really have a lathe in their garage/basement? And for all the hassle, couldnt you just order new screws from the manufacturer or McMaster Carr or someplace?
The type of screws used in antique firearms are almost impossible to find in any store today... at least in Europe where I live. The heads are wrong in shape & size, the threads used back then are obsolete and replica guns are made with standard metric threads. So, the only option is to salvage the old screws... and besides the mere functionality, it's better with a 100% original gun.
Some parts you can get away with changing on old guns that won't reduce the value. The loading gate on a first generation Colt Peacemaker, springs, firing pins and the like. Refinishing by the manufacturer is iffy. Some collectors will let that slide others might not.
Well, I think it's a great tip, but it's a bit deceptive in that it's not something your average Joe can do because most people don't have tig welders and lathes, though the idea is sound so maybe we can just braze in some solder to fill the hole? More people have propane torches and solder. The lathe part could be worked around with file/sandpaper I think. Actually, the best thing is to send the screw to someone who can do this, if you can't get the original part. Amazing fix though.
Finding a genuine screw from over 100 years ago is going to be harder than just finding it on ebay, people collect to be 100% authentic, so if you can find a screw on something as rare as a 1873 colt SAA or Thundered or something of that rarity simply on Ebay, go ahead.
I agree, in most cases that would be the most practical thing to do. But learning how to repair screws in this manner does have a place in restoration of antique firearms that may not have used modern standerdized screws.
@@ironfox2778 I have a 1937 Target Master .22 rifle that I had screws replaced on the sights. Got 'em from a bin the gunsmith had of misc. screws. They fit/work just fine. Cost me a buck or two.
@@AmmoDude That's no surprise since modern SAE standardized screws began their adoption somewhere around 1906. So from '06 to '37 is plenty of time for most companies to adjust. Of course, many guns screws follow a slightly different standard, more out of tradition than any good practical reason. When I was saying "antique" I meant the legal definition being built prior to 1899 when the standard hadn't been adopted yet. Although the push for standardizing screws started much earlier, during the mid-1860s, they had a different pitch system than what is current so it may be impossible to find those screws unless they are taken off of a 'parts' gun. I myself have a French rifle built in the 1870s so hopefully, I can have some of your luck in finding some spares screws from my local gunsmith.
@@ironfox2778 Good to know. Does not look like the weapon he is working on is from the 19th century. Stainless steel came about after the SAE standardization began, 1913ish?
I am currently working on an old Marlin lever action rifle (model 1889). The magazine screw at the barrel end is a No.6-42. I could order a replacement screw but I have been unable to find a bottom tap to chase the tapped hole. There are other problems with that rifle that need to be addressed. At this point it is a long term project. Another place where odd screws are used is in bullet molds and reloading tools. The screw used on older Ideal bullet mold sprue plates is 10-36 fillister head. One cannot purchase replacement screws from Lyman One can purchase replacement screws for current production molds. 10-32 if I remember correctly. Those are different and not interchangeable. I made both a replacement screw and a replacement sprue plate. That particular project was quite interesting before I started I did not know there were four different 25-20 cartridges, and that reloading tool is not really useful to me as I don’t have a 25-20SS (single shot). Having grown up with a lathe in the basement I have trouble understanding how one lives without one. The milling machine that has now been sitting next to that lathe for the last thirty years in my garage is another great tool to have
The voids at 1:34 went *away*. I think he needs more argon and possibly to degrease the screw with some acetone better before welding. The weld should have been pretty shiny at 0:44.
I think I'd rather order a new one from midway, Ebay, or any other online store. If you wait long enough, you'll find what you need for a fraction of the price of all that machinery that'll make you a $1.50 screw. But hey, some folks have nothing better to do then to pay for all that equipment, for you sir, I say carry on....
He’s in the business of repairing guns. Would you want him to hold onto a customer’s gun while he waits for a screw from a 100 year old gun to maybe show up on eBay? I guarantee you that customer is not going to be happy. For the guy that doesn’t have a lathe, I would think you could weld up the screw head and then chuck it in a drill. With the drill placed in a vise, use a file to “machine” the head of the screw. Or, you can wait around for years and hopefully that screw will show up one day.
Or a $100 welder and a set of files... Granted he's not using a harbor freight special, but you can still puddle a weld with one, and you can even use a cheap set of mini files from harbor freight to file out slot back in, it's not that big of a deal really.
Larry’s quality of work and breadth of knowledge is unparalleled. Thank you so much for having made the time and effort to document and share your expertise.
Awesome! Now alls I need is a lathe, lathe tooling, hours of machining experience, a tig welder, gas bottles, hours of welding experience, a few hundred dollars in specialty files, and some sandpaper. Thanks Larry!
You sir are an artist when it comes to repairing and modifying guns. Thank you it is a delight to watch.
I am so glad every gun I own has so many spare parts on the market
That’s a time tested method. You are very good at what you do. These videos help us all to think of the right way to do things. 😊
Mr. Larry Potterfield,
Thank You For Your Projects And Your Experiences.
Many commentators have asked, "why not just buy a screw?"
A few replies have mentioned that Gun screws are not the common screws you'd find at a hardware store. That's correct. The thread pitches are often very different. For example, 6-48 and 8-40 are common scope base screw sizes, both of which are classified as National Specials. The likelihood of finding a 6-48 or 8-40 screw at your local hardware store is slim, yet those are the more common of the uncommon gun screws. There are other thread pitches used in guns that are far less common and you won't find them at supply houses like Grainger, Fastenal, etc. Some are proprietary and/or completely obsolete.
Next consider the head. Some gun screws have a head that is shaped for a particular purpose. Diameter and thickness are critical. Some slotted screws have ultra thin slots which require a ultra thin screwdriver blade. Again, these sorts of screws are not available at the local hardware store and in many cases not available online.
A comment was made that all a person has to do is shop Ebay and wait for whichever screw to become available. Unfortunately, although shopping Ebay, Gunbroker, gun parts supply houses may turn up what you're looking for, often that's not the case. Sitting on a customer's gun for 6-months in the hopes that a screw shows up on Ebay is NOT a good way to do business. There's also the really strong possibility that if/when a used screw becomes available, that the slot will be damaged as well.
Often we have to make a screw because a replacement is unavailable and the original screw is missing. Often we have to fix a screw slot because a replacement is not available and waiting is not an option. That's the spirit of the video and hopefully this explains the context of the repair a little better for those of you who are confused.
I understand screws back then weren't standardized like we are used to today. My question is this: why not dress down the top of the screw while it was on the lathe?
@@Kazhrei You'd have to get below the damage. Depending on how bad or deep that damage is, you may end up removing too much off the top of the screw head. By removing material from the top of the screw head, you make the slot shallower. A shallower slot means the screw driver is more likely to slip and climb out of the slot, causing damage to the the screw head. Another problem is that not all screw heads shape, thicknesses and designs lend themselves to reshaping or thinning on the lathe. A good example is a Marlin Model 60 front takedown screw. Big truss shaped head and no practical way to turn it down to fix screw slot damage without making it paper thin.
If the screw head has been turned down, and the slot is now too shallow, you could deepen it a little bit. The key word is LITTLE. If you cut the screw slot too deep, when you turn a tight screw, the head will break at the slot. Your reward is a stuck screw with half a head.
Screws usually get messed up when the wrong screwdriver is used. A standard screwdriver blade is wedge shaped, instead of hollow ground. Gunsmithing screw slots have parallel sides and are not tapered. Using a standard (wedge shaped) screw driver blade in a straight slot results in the top of the slot being pried upwards. Using a narrow tip standard screw driver in a wide slot does similar damage or worse damage.
Screw slots with minor damage are easily fixed. If the screw has material that's been pried upwards, rather then welding, the damaged material is peened downwards, back down into the screw slot. You can use a punch or small ball peen hammer to do this. The slot is then cleaned up using something like a screw slot or needle file. This only works if the damage isn't extreme and the material is still present at the top of the screw. If some of the displaced material is missing, peening won't restore it, welding will.
@@johntremblay704 With the screw head built up with the welder, I don't think you would have any problem taking the screw down too far, unless you were just sloppy on the lathe at that point. If he could file it down, why not just turn it down?
@@Kazhrei Yeah, I thought you meant turning it down before welding.
You took a long time to say this is a specialist screw. Ok, fine. So buy a suitable replacement. Possibly from the maker or other supplier. It seems likely to be a common problem and there will almost certainly to be a relatively cheap replacement.
Potter field your a true American ! I love your ingenuity, patience, attention to detail, love and passion for gun smithing! Your an inspiration. Cuz I know I don't have a 10th of the patience to do a 10th of the projects you tackle !! Great Job !
Larry you are most certainly the man!! that's just amazing!!
You critics are too harsh about this, ease up, you're really not thinking this through. You don't necessarily need the 10,000$s worth of kit. Guns have been around waaay longern TIG. You can do this with a jewelers tip on an oxy-acetylene rig if you have the cahonies and the dexterity. No lathe? chuck the screw in your drill/drillpress and carefully polish with sanding block or file until perfect.
Thanks Mr. Potterfield you're an inspiration!! This is the 2nd time your brilliant ideas have fixed my guns
Larry is the best gunsmith at least for me
Where are all of these old people? I feel like they were everywhere when I was a kid. Now they are like albino deer. You never see them around anymore. And the stuff they say. " I'm Tom Potter and that's the way it is" who says that? It's just something that I have come to love. Ol' grampa Tom in his gunsmith shop.
"Welcome to midway USA today we're gonna be replacing the barrel on this old Remington, the first step is to find any local iron mine..."
“Because we couldn’t locate a mine close by, we decided to smelt some iron ore we had laying around the shop using an Acme ‘Smelt it Yourself’ shop foundry from Brownell’s.”
After extraction of metal from its ore. Using the proper hammer, like this blacksmithing hammer from Brownells. We're going to coax the iron around this rod to form the barrel. It's a long teadeus process but with time and effort the gun barrel practically makes it's self...
@@jcraigshelton Brownells? Bruh.
It's Midway USA
"Fixing this 12 cent screw isnt too hard, if you have an $8,000 TIG welder and 4 hours to spare."
A miller Dynasty 200 TIG welder like the one he has in the video is less than half of the $8000 price tag you mentioned. And you can get other brands much, much cheaper. The Lincoln Square Wave TIG 200 is just under $2000 with free shipping on Amazon.
And if you are a gunsmith or have any level of fabrication shop, you likely already have a welder for other things. And some of these screws are no longer made by anyone, anywhere. So if you want the proper screw, you have to repair it or make a new one.
TIG welders capable of fine work on steel can be had for $300.
Try a Harbor Fright tig welder.
I love what you do for us.
Now thats how its done!! Beautiful fix Larry
I really enjoy these videos.
I love the gun smith videos you guys put up its always on my top watch list haha keep them coming (:
Larry is good at what he does that's for sure...
Because he wanted to show, how you can do it without lathe. I repaired screwheads like this without the lathe with the file only. It requires more time and patience, but still it is possible to achieve good results.
The end result....a totally new screw the first 1 was thrown in the bin
hahaha, yeah right 😆
Great video. Thank you.
Cool country song, great work, nice video tahnks
👍 craftsmanship!
The non standard screw does not just lay around in hardware store across the street. You have to order it from the rifle manufacturer (thats if hes still in bussines), pay 100x price of the part for shipping and wait weeks for it to arrive.
When you use a lathe anyway why didnt you face the top of the screw too?
would be easier for most of us to order one at midways......
Larry P got some skills!
Great vid and love the series but I think I would just buy another screw
Is 4-40 thread 3/4 a gun screw?
thanks larry
You do the same thing to repair a lot of screws?
Will, it's a screw, not a nut. But say you have an old gun, like something from late 1800 ... it's going to be hard to find a matching screw. For everything else, yeah, buy one, even at $10 it would be easier/cheaper!
Absolutely "wow!"
"This screw is defective!" (fist slams the work bench)
Have you guys looked him up has got lots of awards
Why didn’t you just face the end of the screw with the lathe?
Why dont reface at the lathe?
would not be easier just to buy a new one? or those are hard to find?
I don't think many of the viewers understands the rarity of certain screws in firearms. Sometimes there is simply no choice other than to fix the old one.
Larry makes it look soooo easy, then when you try to do it 1st you melt the screw to slag because you didn't adjust the welder right then you nearly kill the cat ,because you didn't chuck it up right, finally you get pissed and chuck the Frankenstein screw in the Trash then just order a new one
Magician
And all it took was a few thousand pounds worth of kit.
And how did you get the fecking thing out in the first place!
He said the easiest not the cheapest a 15 dollar angle grinder would work fine
So the bottom line is ... be careful with your screwdriver unless you have a Tig Welder and lathe! I thought it would be simple until I heard "tig welder"... LOL, simple for Larry..
Is there anything this guy can't do?
Larry Evans he's perfect in a manly way he's a badass
that's common work for a gunsmith and all the other stuff he presents.
owning a dinosaur?
Rebore barrels, apparently.
How many people really have a lathe in their garage/basement? And for all the hassle, couldnt you just order new screws from the manufacturer or McMaster Carr or someplace?
The type of screws used in antique firearms are almost impossible to find in any store today... at least in Europe where I live.
The heads are wrong in shape & size, the threads used back then are obsolete and replica guns are made with standard metric threads.
So, the only option is to salvage the old screws... and besides the mere functionality, it's better with a 100% original gun.
Well he repaired the original screws for free, so I believe it's a better way :)
I assume the surface is too uneven and you risk catching it on the weld.
If you own a real old gun and change any part on the gun the value drops so keep it all original and keep the the value up
Some parts you can get away with changing on old guns that won't reduce the value. The loading gate on a first generation Colt Peacemaker, springs, firing pins and the like. Refinishing by the manufacturer is iffy. Some collectors will let that slide others might not.
To help those without a lathe maybe?
It can be done with the right tool.
You could buy a new screw, but what’s the fun in that.
It is not that easy to buy a new screw in correct size, where the slot is timed with the longitude direction off the gun
We fixed your screw. That comes to $5.95 + $781.36 in labor.
Love it
brill. but i dont have a tig welder ...
I purchased a used shotgun for cheap brand new it was under $300 it had bad screws so I replaced the 3 screws $27 next time I am buying that file.
Certamente tutti hanno un tornio a casa e una saldatrice TIG ....
I think I’d just go to Ace Hardware. They keep screws for firearms there.
I will admit some gun screws come in pretty unique shapes that are sometimes impossible to ever find again once lost or broken
Well, I think it's a great tip, but it's a bit deceptive in that it's not something your average Joe can do because most people don't have tig welders and lathes, though the idea is sound so maybe we can just braze in some solder to fill the hole? More people have propane torches and solder. The lathe part could be worked around with file/sandpaper I think. Actually, the best thing is to send the screw to someone who can do this, if you can't get the original part. Amazing fix though.
Finding a genuine screw from over 100 years ago is going to be harder than just finding it on ebay, people collect to be 100% authentic, so if you can find a screw on something as rare as a 1873 colt SAA or Thundered or something of that rarity simply on Ebay, go ahead.
*height, not heighth
"Nearly perfect."
Jees, just order a new screw. Can't imagine the cost for of welding, lathing and finishing a screw would cost!
I agree, in most cases that would be the most practical thing to do. But learning how to repair screws in this manner does have a place in restoration of antique firearms that may not have used modern standerdized screws.
@@ironfox2778 I have a 1937 Target Master .22 rifle that I had screws replaced on the sights. Got 'em from a bin the gunsmith had of misc. screws. They fit/work just fine. Cost me a buck or two.
@@AmmoDude That's no surprise since modern SAE standardized screws began their adoption somewhere around 1906. So from '06 to '37 is plenty of time for most companies to adjust. Of course, many guns screws follow a slightly different standard, more out of tradition than any good practical reason. When I was saying "antique" I meant the legal definition being built prior to 1899 when the standard hadn't been adopted yet. Although the push for standardizing screws started much earlier, during the mid-1860s, they had a different pitch system than what is current so it may be impossible to find those screws unless they are taken off of a 'parts' gun. I myself have a French rifle built in the 1870s so hopefully, I can have some of your luck in finding some spares screws from my local gunsmith.
@@ironfox2778 Good to know. Does not look like the weapon he is working on is from the 19th century. Stainless steel came about after the SAE standardization began, 1913ish?
I am currently working on an old Marlin lever action rifle (model 1889). The magazine screw at the barrel end is a No.6-42. I could order a replacement screw but I have been unable to find a bottom tap to chase the tapped hole. There are other problems with that rifle that need to be addressed. At this point it is a long term project.
Another place where odd screws are used is in bullet molds and reloading tools. The screw used on older Ideal bullet mold sprue plates is 10-36 fillister head. One cannot purchase replacement screws from Lyman One can purchase replacement screws for current production molds. 10-32 if I remember correctly. Those are different and not interchangeable. I made both a replacement screw and a replacement sprue plate. That particular project was quite interesting before I started I did not know there were four different 25-20 cartridges, and that reloading tool is not really useful to me as I don’t have a 25-20SS (single shot).
Having grown up with a lathe in the basement I have trouble understanding how one lives without one. The milling machine that has now been sitting next to that lathe for the last thirty years in my garage is another great tool to have
FTherRef27. Oh gee I wonder why Mr. Potterfield did not think about that,. Hummm I wonder what he was thinking about.
"Looks pretty good."
Proceeds to finish the job with a totally different screw.
who told you it's a different screw? it's just finished.
The voids at 1:34 went *away*. I think he needs more argon and possibly to degrease the screw with some acetone better before welding. The weld should have been pretty shiny at 0:44.
the jagged weld would destroy the cutter head ,pretty sure those things are pricey . dont qeustion larry he is the man!
Great!!! I have to invest $1,500 to repair a screw..
The screw isn't $0.25 if it is the only one. Better than $25,000 in tools to custom make a custom screw.
That is now a $100 screw
because there was a bit of the slot left and would have potentially damaged his carbide insert with the interrupted cut........just a guess thou
Other method : i will buy another nut.
If I had a lathe I just make a new one
must be nice to have all that money to fix a 2 cent screw
@MidwayUSA Please get rid of that made in china tool post holder!!! You are not setting a very good example!
Agreed, I lock on the that the second I see it. That faster the world doesn't rely on china the better
I think I'd rather order a new one from midway, Ebay, or any other online store. If you wait long enough, you'll find what you need for a fraction of the price of all that machinery that'll make you a $1.50 screw. But hey, some folks have nothing better to do then to pay for all that equipment, for you sir, I say carry on....
He’s in the business of repairing guns. Would you want him to hold onto a customer’s gun while he waits for a screw from a 100 year old gun to maybe show up on eBay? I guarantee you that customer is not going to be happy.
For the guy that doesn’t have a lathe, I would think you could weld up the screw head and then chuck it in a drill. With the drill placed in a vise, use a file to “machine” the head of the screw. Or, you can wait around for years and hopefully that screw will show up one day.
abcxyz69r. Wow the world would be a better place if YOU were in charge!!!
Sure you can repair a screw head,IF you have a $100,000 work shop and equipment.
Or a $100 welder and a set of files...
Granted he's not using a harbor freight special, but you can still puddle a weld with one, and you can even use a cheap set of mini files from harbor freight to file out slot back in, it's not that big of a deal really.
Mr. Pptterfield please. MADE IN CHINA?????
😂👍😂
China can make really good parts with high quality steel :)
Well... in my think... you can buy a screw. :(
If it's an old gun, the screw could be non standard measurements or size that simply isn't replacable.
$25,000 in tools to fix a $0.25 screw.
That's not gunsmithing.
helpful :)