Nic work. It's worth commenting that there's a difference between being able to do the job and being able to TEACH how to do the job, because they're different skills. Very well done on both counts here.
Thank you for doing this video. I'm retired now and to make my garage look better, I've attempted to made a few doors to cover my shelving so they look like cabinets. I tried to bend the sheet metal edges over to look like a store bought cabinet, but they look terribly uneven when it's "finished". The last door I made, I welded up a box tube frame and plug welded the sheet to the face and hinges to the back, which turned out very square and even but has that sheet metal edge all the way around, though smoothed off and pretty strong. I think I will attempt to do a wire frame set to see how it works out. Your video that showed hammer shrinking (edit: and stretching) metal around the inside and outside of a corner cured me of the folded, bunched up stuff I used to encounter. Thanks again for these very helpful video's. I hope there are some young guys out there watching especially if they are entering the work force. Your techniques work.
hi ed. thank you thats very kind of you. im glad your enjoying the channel and i hope the next door you do turns out great. just take your time and have fun with it.
I'm an amateur and have done this and it's not that tricky with surprisingly little practice. My mentor taught me pretty much exactly the same way you showed here. He didn't tell me the trick with the tape around the hammer head though so that's something new I will use next time, thank you! 4mm galv steel wire is readily available in NZ as Number 8 fencing wire. I have also successfully used 3/16 aluminium armature wire (from an art supply shop) with aluminium panels too. The other thing I have done is got the cheapest pair of end cutting pliers I could find, ground the cutting edges off and filed a slight groove where the cutting edge was. That holds the wire without marking the panel and you can use it to wrap the very bottom edge right around under the wire at the end to get it really tight. To get the right amount of flange to fold up I usually start at 3x the wire diameter then do a couple of small tests pieces with the actual wire and metal I am using to get it exact.
This is a very informative & well taught tutorial. You have helped me solve the problem I have with forming a wire edge panel. Thanks for sharing your techniques & expertise. Rick
Super interesting and amazing craftsmanship! 🤜🏼🤛🏼🇦🇺🍀😎 First time seeing this method, and some how I thought the whole time, you were going to remove the wire at the end. I can see how if each end of the wire was fixed and welded, the brim would be really strong. Great work ha!
While your feet are stompin' And the jam is pumpin' Look ahead, the crowd is jumpin' Pump it up a little more Get the party going on the dance floor See, 'cause that's where the party's at And you'll find out if you do that I don't want a place to stay Get your booty on the floor tonight Make my day I don't want a place to stay Get your booty on the floor tonight Make my day Make my day Make my day Make my day Make my day
Excellent video. You make it look deceivingly easy :-) Maybe my inexperience is showing, or I have not had the proper cars? Could you explain what the purpose of the wire edge is. And where it is used? I suppose strenght is one advantage?
Hello Dan, we've had lots of practice 😀 yes, the wire edge is used for strength, many hand made cars have it, even porsche 356 wheel arches are wired, Tom did his apprenticeship at Morgan, when they were still fully hand made.
The fact that this looks so easy is a testament to the mans skill and experience, I have enjoyed bashing metal for fifty plus years, (self taught, or something like that), and am still learning. Just an observation but would a radius on the block help with the initial forming and help in preventing a hard edge?, I understand that you may need several for different wire diameters but you could do the sizes you most use, would this help?.
Thank you for a very informative video. Great skills you have there and you put across your techniques very clearly. Can you advise if the same technique works for producing a wired edge on 20 gauge mild steel, or does it get more difficult to achieve in steel?
Thanks 👍11.32 in it show the face taped up. It only need to be half way up the face and wrapped over the edge that sliding on the material to stop it marking. As you wrap it the tape will split and you will need the reapply more tape. Hope this helps .
Just subscribed and enjoyed a couple of your videos so far. I'm sure I'll be back to enjoy more. Suggestions for more search tags? #customfab #customcar #hotrod #ratrod #oldskoolfab #classicmetalfabrication #hammeranddolly #[name of tools used or process being undertaken] #planisher #panelwork #wirerollededge #diy #weld #notwelded #vintagemetalwork #vintagefabrication #handtools #metalskills #metalworkingskills #handfabrication #handfabbed #handfab - hope these help or inspire. Cheers!
This is an excellent video once again Tom. Can I ask Tom when this process was used on vehicles was the wire left in place. I am really enjoying the the vlogg on the Consul as I'm starting a restoration on a 72 TR6 here in NZ Regards Ian
Hi ian. Yes the wire is left in place. It makes the structure more rigged and adds a lot of strength to it. A TR6 is a lovely car! Andy will be pleased that your enjoying the consul vlog👍👨🏭
Hi Tom, I really enjoyed this video. I have some cut edges on a steel bulkhead I would like to improve. I'm guessing this would also work for steel? Also, I was thinking of leaving out the wire for the folded edge look. What do you think? I didn't know you were a Morgan apprentice? Kind regards Paul from 48 Spokes
Thank you. Yes the will work the same for steel 👍 I don’t see how leaving out the wire would be an issue either. Yes I was there nearly 6 years unfortunately 😂
@@Metal_shaper_tom Thank you Tom. I've just had a practice and worked well so onto the job next. I had a factory tour a few Saturdays ago. Brilliant, really enjoyed it. Took plenty of photos 😁
Excellent clear video. I'm struggling to panel beat a low crown roof panel that was sand blasted on the underside. The surface is very irregular with some areas heavily stretched and other areas relatively undamaged. I've used an OA torch to deal with the heavy damage and a shrinking disk for the other areas. I've managed to get the general shape back but I'm having great difficulty doing the final shaping /planishing. I tried finishing the roof in small sections but when I move to a new section I find that the level of the earlier work is upset and needs further refinement. I find that I am chasing the problems around the roof with no end in sight. And of course I'm trying at the same time to preserve the correct N-S and E-W profiles. I would appreciate advice on how to escape from this nightmare! Thanks, Mike
Hey Mike . Thanks for your message. I think this is pretty common. I think what your doing is over working the area so in places it’s stretched but under tension then when you release some of that tension by stretching a new area is releases that tension and then moves again. Some times what we want to achieve isn’t achievable or we set the bar to high for ourselves. What I world be inclined to do is get it to 85/90% happy all over then just gently work the areas you want to improve . Remember very light taps as you want to move the metal not stretch it. Hope this is of some help and good luck 👨🏭
@@Metal_shaper_tom Thanks Tom. Your comments make sense. I've been working small areas to perfection and then trying to move to a new area hoping to do the entire roof piecemeal.I'll try again as you suggested and work the areas to 85/90% and then move on. When the entire panel is pretty good I'll try some gentle refinement. Thanks again, Mike in Germany
@@mfwwhelan7561 i'll add to that, best part is you already realised your problem - don't get stuck on small areas. do not try to finish one small area to 50%, not even to 25%. do the whole roof to 10%, then the whole roof again to 20% and so on until you're at 80% -ish, then zoom in to smaller problem areas - should not be that many by that time.
Brilliant stuff. You are working with Aluminum. What material were coachbuilders using in the 30s and 40s? TIG was patented in 1942 so wide spread adoption was later. If those old guys were using Alum, how did they join panels? I really enjoy the channel and your choice of projects
Hello Steve, they used gas welding to join the panels back then, we still do every now and again now if we feel like it it requires a flux and a steady hand. Things like rolls Royce and Bentley wings were often made of aluminium in several pieces gas welded together. Glad you are enjoying the channel.
Hi Mate, great vid. Could you please explain where the measurement of the radius (pi of wire) is in relation to the finished edge? Sorry, Tricky in words. When tapping over the block should the wheel arch reveal be formed at the scribe line or should the line appear at the final edge of the wheel arch opening? Cheers.
initial fold is at the scribe line. count on the finished opening being around a 1/4 to 1/3 third of the (11.3mm) total, 3-4 mm, below that. depends how accurate you are.
Hello, usually we would prime it before inserting the wire, but there will always be a bit of metal touching, this is the traditional way of doing this process on all vintage and classic cars where they have this joint.
@@Metal_shaper_tom i have a mk1 escort and want to tuck the lip in round the rear wheel arch. This is so wider tyres don't rub the inside of the arch. Cheers
![เปิด อาณาจักร หมื่นล้าน "สาระตั้ม" l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3XE0nPF4YkQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Nothing like watching a true Craftsman
Thank you 👍
Excellent tutorial, very clear.
There’s a lot of skill on display here - thanks for sharing as always!
Thanks Ian. 👍👨🏭
Excellent job. I’ve been looking for a video on how to do this for a while.-5 stars.
Thanks Jason . Glad it came in useful
Thank you... I feel confident to try this technique. The bit about minding the gap was what I was missing.
Nic work. It's worth commenting that there's a difference between being able to do the job and being able to TEACH how to do the job, because they're different skills. Very well done on both counts here.
Thank you Dominic
It nice to hear that the way we show people is coming across well 👍
Brilliant video. I'm dying to have a go 😀
Awsome trade work mate a pleasure to watch
thank you
Very nice tutorial, Tom.
Thanks for posting it.
Cheers joe! 👍
Thank you for doing this video.
I'm retired now and to make my garage look better, I've attempted to made a few doors to cover my shelving so they look like cabinets. I tried to bend the sheet metal edges over to look like a store bought cabinet, but they look terribly uneven when it's "finished". The last door I made, I welded up a box tube frame and plug welded the sheet to the face and hinges to the back, which turned out very square and even but has that sheet metal edge all the way around, though smoothed off and pretty strong.
I think I will attempt to do a wire frame set to see how it works out. Your video that showed hammer shrinking (edit: and stretching) metal around the inside and outside of a corner cured me of the folded, bunched up stuff I used to encounter.
Thanks again for these very helpful video's. I hope there are some young guys out there watching especially if they are entering the work force. Your techniques work.
hi ed. thank you thats very kind of you. im glad your enjoying the channel and i hope the next door you do turns out great. just take your time and have fun with it.
I'm an amateur and have done this and it's not that tricky with surprisingly little practice. My mentor taught me pretty much exactly the same way you showed here. He didn't tell me the trick with the tape around the hammer head though so that's something new I will use next time, thank you! 4mm galv steel wire is readily available in NZ as Number 8 fencing wire. I have also successfully used 3/16 aluminium armature wire (from an art supply shop) with aluminium panels too. The other thing I have done is got the cheapest pair of end cutting pliers I could find, ground the cutting edges off and filed a slight groove where the cutting edge was. That holds the wire without marking the panel and you can use it to wrap the very bottom edge right around under the wire at the end to get it really tight. To get the right amount of flange to fold up I usually start at 3x the wire diameter then do a couple of small tests pieces with the actual wire and metal I am using to get it exact.
Nice work, a bead roller does a good job too.
Yes it does i agree.
Nice job done correctly…….well done
Nicely done Tom thanks for video
Cheers Wade 👍
Gotta do this soon to a rear wing I am making so cheers for sharing your skills as gonna help me for sure.
I'm so encouraged to see that you do not use your vernier caliper as a protractor. Keep up the good work!
Cheers Phil 👍
Great job and tips
This is a very informative & well taught tutorial. You have helped me solve the problem I have with forming a wire edge panel.
Thanks for sharing your techniques & expertise.
Rick
Thanks Rick . Glad you liked it 👍
as always some beautiful work buddy, keep them coming
Cheers Danny 👍
thank you for sharing.
Good work
Good work! I enjoyed that.
Love the process and the results!!
Thank you!
Lovely work, always was meaning to have a go at this but have never got round to it, you've inspired me!
thats great to know larry.hope it goes well
Thanks for a excellent video.
cheers doug
This video has help so much. Just doing with good old hand tools cheers. Can you make some more videos i.e panel restoration off and back on the car.
Hopefully I can make some videos like that . All depends on what I’m working on at the time
Thanks - great video!
Stupid Amazing.
Just subscribed.
Cheers 👍
Great video 👍
Cheers Tom 👍
Super interesting and amazing craftsmanship!
🤜🏼🤛🏼🇦🇺🍀😎
First time seeing this method, and some how I thought the whole time, you were going to remove the wire at the end.
I can see how if each end of the wire was fixed and welded, the brim would be really strong.
Great work ha!
thank you for sharing! Subbed
Thank you 👍
Made that look easy. I dont think I will be brave enough to post when i have a go.
Thanks. Honestly just take your time and I’m sure you’ll be fine 👍
'Easy as that' 🤣
If possible, I'd love to see you make a mudguard with rolled edges. I'm tempted to have a go, but have no idea where to start.
Hello Paul, we may make a video on how to make a 'cycle wing' with a wired edge in the future.
Cool !!
Pump up the jam!
Pump it up!!!
While your feet are stompin'
And the jam is pumpin'
Look ahead, the crowd is jumpin'
Pump it up a little more
Get the party going on the dance floor
See, 'cause that's where the party's at
And you'll find out if you do that
I don't want a place to stay
Get your booty on the floor tonight
Make my day
I don't want a place to stay
Get your booty on the floor tonight
Make my day
Make my day
Make my day
Make my day
Make my day
Excellent video. You make it look deceivingly easy :-) Maybe my inexperience is showing, or I have not had the proper cars? Could you explain what the purpose of the wire edge is. And where it is used? I suppose strenght is one advantage?
Hello Dan, we've had lots of practice 😀 yes, the wire edge is used for strength, many hand made cars have it, even porsche 356 wheel arches are wired, Tom did his apprenticeship at Morgan, when they were still fully hand made.
The fact that this looks so easy is a testament to the mans skill and experience, I have enjoyed bashing metal for fifty plus years, (self taught, or something like that), and am still learning. Just an observation but would a radius on the block help with the initial forming and help in preventing a hard edge?, I understand that you may need several for different wire diameters but you could do the sizes you most use, would this help?.
Hi roger. Yes if you wanted to do that to your dressing block that would definitely work! I’ve never done it but it’s a good idea 👍
Thank you for a very informative video. Great skills you have there and you put across your techniques very clearly. Can you advise if the same technique works for producing a wired edge on 20 gauge mild steel, or does it get more difficult to achieve in steel?
Exactly the same process . I’m sure your do a great job 👏
Would like to see how you replace a wire edged panel.
Very similar. It really depends on the condition of the edge when you unpick it most of the time I have to cut a section and put a new edge in.
Hi Tom great tutorial.
Did you tape the bottom of the hammer head that rests on the panel?
I could see a lot on the face but the bottom was not shown.
Thanks 👍11.32 in it show the face taped up. It only need to be half way up the face and wrapped over the edge that sliding on the material to stop it marking. As you wrap it the tape will split and you will need the reapply more tape. Hope this helps .
Dude Tom
in armor i can see the need for rounded edge , in what format is it used in car body work ?
excellent how to vid tho dude
D
Wheel arches and any body panel outer edge that’s not connected to the chassis like a front or rear valance to add strength and make it more rigid.
Just subscribed and enjoyed a couple of your videos so far. I'm sure I'll be back to enjoy more. Suggestions for more search tags? #customfab #customcar #hotrod #ratrod #oldskoolfab #classicmetalfabrication #hammeranddolly #[name of tools used or process being undertaken] #planisher #panelwork #wirerollededge #diy #weld #notwelded #vintagemetalwork #vintagefabrication #handtools #metalskills #metalworkingskills #handfabrication #handfabbed #handfab - hope these help or inspire. Cheers!
Thank you. Yes we’ll definitely use some of these! It’s all a learning curve and any advice is gratefully received 👍
👍 GREAT, THANKS.
No problem 👍
great video, just one question: how is the gap sealed to avoid water in there, please?
Hi that’s down to the paint process to seal it.
@@Metal_shaper_tom thank you!
This is an excellent video once again Tom. Can I ask Tom when this process was used on vehicles was the wire left in place. I am really enjoying the the vlogg on the Consul as I'm starting a restoration on a 72 TR6 here in NZ
Regards
Ian
Hi ian. Yes the wire is left in place. It makes the structure more rigged and adds a lot of strength to it. A TR6 is a lovely car! Andy will be pleased that your enjoying the consul vlog👍👨🏭
Hi Tom, I really enjoyed this video. I have some cut edges on a steel bulkhead I would like to improve. I'm guessing this would also work for steel? Also, I was thinking of leaving out the wire for the folded edge look. What do you think?
I didn't know you were a Morgan apprentice?
Kind regards Paul from 48 Spokes
Thank you. Yes the will work the same for steel 👍 I don’t see how leaving out the wire would be an issue either. Yes I was there nearly 6 years unfortunately 😂
@@Metal_shaper_tom Thank you Tom. I've just had a practice and worked well so onto the job next.
I had a factory tour a few Saturdays ago. Brilliant, really enjoyed it. Took plenty of photos 😁
Excellent clear video.
I'm struggling to panel beat a low crown roof panel that was sand blasted on the underside. The surface is very irregular with some areas heavily stretched and other areas relatively undamaged. I've used an OA torch to deal with the heavy damage and a shrinking disk for the other areas. I've managed to get the general shape back but I'm having great difficulty doing the final shaping /planishing.
I tried finishing the roof in small sections but when I move to a new section I find that the level of the earlier work is upset and needs further refinement. I find that I am chasing the problems around the roof with no end in sight. And of course I'm trying at the same time to preserve the correct N-S and E-W profiles.
I would appreciate advice on how to escape from this nightmare!
Thanks,
Mike
Hey Mike . Thanks for your message. I think this is pretty common. I think what your doing is over working the area so in places it’s stretched but under tension then when you release some of that tension by stretching a new area is releases that tension and then moves again. Some times what we want to achieve isn’t achievable or we set the bar to high for ourselves. What I world be inclined to do is get it to 85/90% happy all over then just gently work the areas you want to improve . Remember very light taps as you want to move the metal not stretch it. Hope this is of some help and good luck 👨🏭
@@Metal_shaper_tom Thanks Tom. Your comments make sense. I've been working small areas to perfection and then trying to move to a new area hoping to do the entire roof piecemeal.I'll try again as you suggested and work the areas to 85/90% and then move on. When the entire panel is pretty good I'll try some gentle refinement.
Thanks again,
Mike in Germany
@@mfwwhelan7561 i'll add to that, best part is you already realised your problem - don't get stuck on small areas. do not try to finish one small area to 50%, not even to 25%. do the whole roof to 10%, then the whole roof again to 20% and so on until you're at 80% -ish, then zoom in to smaller problem areas - should not be that many by that time.
@@daos3300 Thanks for your comments. I started applying your ideas yesterday.
Mike
@@mfwwhelan7561 best of luck - to be fair, i'm only expanding on what V&CM already said.
Brilliant stuff. You are working with Aluminum. What material were coachbuilders using in the 30s and 40s? TIG was patented in 1942 so wide spread adoption was later. If those old guys were using Alum, how did they join panels? I really enjoy the channel and your choice of projects
Hello Steve, they used gas welding to join the panels back then, we still do every now and again now if we feel like it it requires a flux and a steady hand. Things like rolls Royce and Bentley wings were often made of aluminium in several pieces gas welded together. Glad you are enjoying the channel.
Hi Mate, great vid.
Could you please explain where the measurement of the radius (pi of wire) is in relation to the finished edge?
Sorry, Tricky in words.
When tapping over the block should the wheel arch reveal be formed at the scribe line or should the line appear at the final edge of the wheel arch opening?
Cheers.
initial fold is at the scribe line. count on the finished opening being around a 1/4 to 1/3 third of the (11.3mm) total, 3-4 mm, below that. depends how accurate you are.
Good answer, we were thinking of how to describe it, yes it does depend on how accurate you are.
Good answer, we were thinking of how to describe it, yes it does depend on how accurate you are.
would you ever braze or weld the "overwrap" if for example it was part of an under dash panel or maybe part of a seat construction?
I’ve never had to. I can see why people would if they wanted but personally I don’t think you would need to
are you not worried about corrosion that will take place between the aluminium and galv steel rod
Hello, usually we would prime it before inserting the wire, but there will always be a bit of metal touching, this is the traditional way of doing this process on all vintage and classic cars where they have this joint.
Would this method work for rolling some arches on mild steel
Sorry don’t quite understand your question
@@Metal_shaper_tom i have a mk1 escort and want to tuck the lip in round the rear wheel arch. This is so wider tyres don't rub the inside of the arch. Cheers
Hi Tom. Checked the video again and I could see the tape as you hammered.
Sorry.
Yes the tape on the hammer head as I’m tucking the edge under. That’s the only time use it. Cheers Richard
School hasnt teach me anything but youtube does
Same process for 18 guage steel?
Yes
Awsome trade work mate a pleasure to watch
Thank you 👍