Nice. A few comments - high V solder instead of crimp connections can be a failure point, as can one thin layer of heat-shrink as a strain relief, then the case should be grounded metal for numerous safety & emissions reasons, and case bolts being accessible from the outside while exposed inside to wiring is another failure point, then is the power inlet appropriately fused? One minor point is that exposed electrical components can be damaged from ESD so protecting them would eliminate another failure point. Are the high V windings thermally fused? High voltage cables should also be double insulated, especially if subject to wear, etc. Stay safe out there ; )
You don't have any high Voltage cable on the secondary coils (here between 1,7 and 3,5V, variable with the rounds you choose, approximatively 1V per round) but simply high Amperage cable with very low voltage..... which is absolutely not dangerous . With such a low voltage the current cannot run through the skin of your fingers if you hold both electrodes separate in the same hand and switch on ( please no direct contact between electrodes !)...but most of people would not try to do this , when they see the welding result.... It's exactly the same as if you hold both electrodes of a 12V car battery with 650 amps/output with your hands...nothing happens....and if you put a copper wire it burns very fast . But I agree that a double insulation would be safer, simply to avoid a ground short between cable and sharp angles of the transfo by abrasion. Low voltage (till 40/50V max), even with high amps, is not dangerous, except with a direct metallic connection like here for welding. In this case danger comes not from current but from heat . High voltage with low amperage is very dangerous : current runs through the skin and blocks quickly the heart (tetanisation)..... But a defibrillator uses this current with very short pulse (and contraction) to start the heart again. High voltage with high amperage...Heart locks down and you "burn" immediately.
Removing thick isolation and replacing it with thinner heatshrink tube is really nice idea. Just to be safe I'd have use 2 layers of heatshrink, for sharp edges on the core.
It's actually a horrible and dangerous idea, when you do that you have basically killed the rating on said wire and even 2 layers of heat shrink will never give it near as good as the protection as the original sheathing, not to mention the wire is no longer UL listed which might seem like a small thing and just being anal about but in the event of a fire/accident these are the first thing that insurance companies look for and can totally invalidate any claim, but of course in said event human lives are the most important thing. Overall though the rest of the project was very well done.
@@DonnyTerek That doesn't excuse you taking the sheathing off, in that case you can find bigger transformer so it will have bigger openings or get a different type of wire, there is all types of insulations, some more flexible than others with possibly same rating.
@@pacikla6364 Do as you please, I could care less, can't see it from my house lol, when I came up in electrical trade and through technical college, I was only given 2 options doing it right or wrong, over 17 years in commercial/residential/industrial electrical I got to see first-hand the consequences of both ways, I don't recall being anal being an option but that's the difference between some people I guess, some care more than others, I commented on doing it the right way because many here don't know the difference between the two, but each is free to do their own will.
Donny Terek is brilliant. The one thing that bothered me is I didn't see him test for shorts before he put the enclosure on. I'm sure he did and that step was just edited out.
Made one like this, I found I am getting factory like welds with no indents on battery from pressing too hard or burn marks by setting my current: @ 70 and time: @ 5 or 6 milliseconds. No need to press the strip down too much, just enough to hold it in place is enough. I did not like the springs on the welding pen as they require too much pressure to trigger the microswitch so got a foot pedal instead. Thanks Donny.
Just a quick question if I may, I can understand the timer section of the controller selecting how many cycles of mains is being switched into the large transformer, but the current side of the controller is only switching the primary side, which I would imagine you do not want to restrict. So do you actually use the current limit function of the controller?
This electronic unit controls the turn-on time, pause and current that enters the primary winding of the transformer. . Этот электронный блок, управляет временем включения, паузой и током, который поступает на первичную обмотку трансформатора.
using copper/tungsten tips adds that last touch, those tips are much harder than copper alone and the high current doesnt bother the tungsten at all.you can feel the difference in the weld.
Grat build - thanks fo the parts list - It would be a good idea to add a big as possible heat sink to the mosfet to extend its lifespan ... (mosfet will be the weakest componet over time, maybe strengthen the outgoing leads on the PCB with solder or soldered copper wires)
Hi Donny, very nice building for your DIY spotwelder.! But I must say I built one and compared with my not DIY other one. The problem with the board of the DIY is that we can only select power (amps) and welding time , but all of this only for ONE continuous pulse. The other one adds a choice for several pulses (1 to 6), each one 20millisec,, so it's not necessary to have a precise regulation of the values, the welding is always good and first of all the nickel stripe cannot burn. That happens sometimes with the DIY : for a good welding I am always at the burning limit (you too on the video, with brown circles around the weld) ; if not ,ther's no welding. It's because ther's only one high impulse. With 3 pulses we don't need so much power . I don't know if we could find now such a board for the DIY. It would be the Best! i add that with the DIY I am not always sure of weld quality, sometimes very good, sometimes not, so for high discharge battery (like for power drill or cordless vacuum) I don't use the DIY....and for a motorcycle battery I always solder (more than 100amps for starting) But for use of "the good one" I need a 40A protection, so I have a special switch in the garage. The DIY can be connected on every switch in the house. Friendly, Michel.
Hello, thank you for the informative comment. I believe I saw a few different DIY boards for spot welders that can produce several pulses but haven't tested any of them myself yet. I may do that for my other spot welder build and compare it to this one. But I do agree that it is sometimes difficult to get a proper weld using the DIY welder.
@@DonnyTerek I think it's because we must always be at the burning limit with the DIY, and sometimes the electrodes are as "glued" on the nickel stripe . So after ripping them from the stripe they are dirty with some nickel glued on the weld point, and contact quality is no more good . So it's necessary to brush very often the points with sandpaper if we use the DIY , always perfectly clean.....but take care that both points must have exactly the same contact surface (half-round) . If not, we have more intensity on the thinnest one, that gives spark and sometimes a hole in the stripe.
@@Michel-Artois Yes, I have noticed that too but not only with DIY welders, same goes with the SQ-SW1 that is shown in the video. After a few minutes of welding the electrodes start to stick to the surface so I lightly sand them with a soft sanding sponge.
Тысячу раз сделано в России, начали делать несколько лет назад, как только появились ВЧ печи - микроволновки! Лично у меня 4 витка проводом 25 кв. мм. Этот трансформатор (от микроволновки) нельзя держать постоянно под напряжением (перегрев), поэтому я управляю сваркой включая и выключая напряжение на первичную (220В.) обмотку, а устройство регулировки запитано от отдельного трансформатора на ~220/12 Вольт
If you already have MOT its cheap, but I bought online so much cheap, its a mosfet spot welderl board $5 to $7 spot welder cheap just a few screw ready to use 12vdc lead acid , lithium batt any batt 12vdc, with adjustable power, automatic
Great build and helpful list of components. This is one of the best videos I've seen and shows what can be achieved by careful, skilled and methodical working. So 10ms with the Sequre SQ-SW1, but I couldn't make out what you set yours to at 14:22. Yours produced welds as good as I see on most battery component tabs. But my tabs are 0.3x6mm and that is why I'm looking for examples of what other folk are doing to for inspiration but not seen anyone spot 0.3mm
Thank you! Glad to see you found my video helpful. It was set to 06-80 at that time. These may differ from build to build due to different wound cables, thickness etc. Haven't had a chance to weld 0.3 nickel myself yet. I double or triple stack thinner pieces if needed. Hold just fine.
Hi!, I'd like to build this spot welder because my old doesn't really that effective anymore. Can you tell what this part thing called? 6:59 It'll be very helpful if answered. Thanks!
Hello, Can the self-made spot welder be operated on a normal household network or can that lead to problems? I've heard that people have talked about the danger of smoldering fires, which makes me a little unsettled.
Many thanks to you for such a kind comment! Glad to see you enjoyed the video. As you may have seen in the video, I got pretty good results setting the pulse at 06 and the current at 80. Seems to produce quite strong welds.
in MOT spot welder, you are using too much longer and thin wires with pen, your transformer is small, and another thing i have noticed is that those quick release connectors add resistance to the system, when you connect pen wires directly to the secondary of MOT, you will notice better results, another thing is - don't exceed 03 setting for time in the NY-D01 controller, i have spot welders doing great welds at 02 max, usually with bigger transformer welds at 01msec.
Thanks for the informative comment! Much appreciated. This build is definitely not perfect and could use a few tweaks and mods but overall I am happy with the results it produces.
Actually, your welds looks better than the bought unit. What seems "not as good" to you is that you're seeing the heat affected zone, which indicates a larger heat input capacity in your machine.
Thanks! It is easier to mount the display outside since I don't need to make any ugly cutouts on the panel itself. I could have used a bit shorter standoffs though.
I have everything identical as you do in your video, no box and slightly different copper wire - thicker strands. BUT my heats up the battery, but no welds! What do you think is wrong? Should I replace the wire with smaller strands, but same thickness? Thanks.
Better late than never. Heed some of the safety precautions offered. l might add, wrapping the transformer core with a layer or two of insulating tape like Kapton®, before winding the secondary to mitigate any sharp edges bearing on the shrink sleeve insulation.. That said, your is a great build. Thanks for posting. Can I ask what wattage microwave was the transformer taken from?
@@DonnyTerek I like this beeping Sound when a weld is done.Of course not necessary but a nice Feature.Only because of this i ordered the MinderRC DH30 Mini spotwelder.My other Welder dont make Sound😅 Cheers
Hi, well done with the inspirational project! It would be great to compare the performance of those standard 800w transformers with the double pulse control board which only cost a few euros extra! Also can you coment about the need od the 40A vs 100A thyristor? Many thanks for sharing this work!
Hi, thank you much! I might try the double pulse control board since I still have a few spare microwave oven transformers laying around. I can only assume that the 100A thyristor can withstand a higher current. Thank you!
I found someone to ask ...))) This "master" can only assemble the finished product. And technically - he's dumb.)) . Нашёл у кого спрашивать... ))) Этот "мастер" только может собрать готовый продукт. А технически - он тупой. ))
Thanks! Well I got the transformer for free, the welding pen, controller board and the 9V transformer were around 35$ in total. A few meters of copper cable was 15$, and the plastic case was 8$. Include other bits and pieces which totals to around 60-65$. I think it's well worth it 😄
Io ,dico bella esecuzione, ho fatto anche io una saldatrice simile ,ma ho un timer che non regola bene. Hai tu un link dove posso comprare la scheda di registrazione? Grazie, per me hai fatto un bel lavoro
Hello master, your projects are very well done, congratulations. I have a doubt: you bought 3 m of 35mm2 cable but used it to actually wind only 1.3 m or 1.7 m? Because in the video (1:24 min), you cut the cable with 1.3 m.
How did you determine the size of secondary transformer conductor required? I wonder if a smaller cable could be used and if so there might be adjustments to the timing for a good weld. Nice work!
Thanks! Doing a bit of research on DIY spot welders, I found that the 35mm squared copper cable is best for a job like this to get as many (4 in this case) windings of cable around the transformer for higher current output.
@@daltonndickeyy3545 My thinking was if we substitute a little less current with a little more time and generate the same amount of heat. Theoretically, that should work. I'm just a welding novice.
@@daltonndickeyy3545 You're "spot" on. the larger the copper conductor the larger current it can handle without melting down the insuation only after 5 welds.. Also less loops means less voltage whch prevents arcing and more currrent to get to 200A. Asa Shemon says, the pulse witdth will determine the amount of power delivered. Since we want the shorter possible time because it burns through the nickel strip, we sure want to deliver the maximum current through that transformer.
Where did you get all these components from,and what name should i ask for ordering them?i would like also to give me some guide for coneting big transformer with other part or some drawn scheme,thnx in advance.
Why is it so hard to buy a battery welder?. 1. The cheap ones are crap. 2. The expensive crappy ones requires a powerfull house fuse. 3. The more expensive than that is just too much..
Dear Donny. Your video is the best on the entire TH-cam! I subscribed and I'm going to recommend your channel to everyone I know around. Keep going you're doing a great job!
Hello. I am also collecting the materials to make. I'm thinking of using a 25mm2 cable, but I'm confused about the amperage value. In some videos they used 35mm2 cable. The copper part of 25mm2 cables is 6.8mm. I think this is not enough. When you peel off the outer shell and fold the cable in half, the copper part becomes 13.6 mm. Do you think this is enough?
Is this just super low voltage super high current AC? How does the controller board interface with the high current circuit? Does it interrupt the AC primary? I didn't see where/how the controller board is attached to control the pulse. Really nice build!
Yes, it is only 3-4 Volts AC, with high current pulses. You can find the wiring diagram in the description of this video. It regulates the input to the primary coil.
Какое SQ кабеля (диаметр медной части)?Достаточно ли 2м?Что значит заморачиваться с заменой покрытия? Какие два модуля вы используете?Можете ли вы купить его на амазоне?Я тоже сделал его,но даже если лента для подключения батареи станет красной,он будет приклеен как у вас.Нет,я использую только трансформатор,но как сделать красивую и крепкую связь?
Just curious but the way you did that solder instead of crimping I would think is better than any crimp you could do, is it not? I mean instead of 30% of the wire pressed against the shell of the pressed connector with solder you have 100% contact.. Sorta wondering why that's not standard its better in every way other that someone crimping it for speed or out of laziness.
Well I thought so too but upon some reading, the solder has some resistance so crimping the cables produces a much better connection since the cable strands are compressed tightly against the surface of the lug.
@@DonnyTerek okay see this is what I love, so correct me if I'm wrong but I assume it's because electrons flow on the surface of metals so maybe crimping them somehow gives them more surface area where binding them in direct metal actually limits the surface area.. Am I even close?
@@jujjuj7676 I can't tell you for sure on the scientific level but the fact is that the solder induces more resistance compared to the crimped connection.
Great project although with the rest of it being so clean I would’ve cut two small windows for the displays and mounted that board inside the inclosure.
Хватит ли кабеля (диаметр медной части) 2м, в чем смысл замены покрытия? Какие два модуля вы используете, можете ли вы купить их на амазоне, я сделал это, но даже если лента для подключения батареи станет красной, ее нельзя склеить, как у вас, используйте Только трансформатор используется, но как мы можем сделать красивую и крепкую связь?
Nice job. Regarding how your welds look in comparison with the SQ-SW1 welds, could it be the shape of the pen's contact ends? the SQ-SW1's look a bit rounder than the ones on the pen you used.
That’s exactly what I was about to type I know I’m late to the party, that’s most likely what caused the difference, maybe even down to something as simple as the surface finish of the contact tip could affect also
Counter top appliances have welded wire conndectons instead of soldered connections due to heat. Can these small welders repair these types of connections.
Why strip the insulation, just to put the heatshrink insulation on? I assume the originalninsulator was too thick to fit into the transformer... but this isnt explained what soever
Hey Donny, I accidentally damaged the primary coil when removing the secondary one, do I have to start over with a new transformer or is there any way toi salvage it? I have severed like 2 wires in the bundle
I agree. I've bought 2 handheld that died or never worked and a bench top version that they have told me needs a 40-60A outlet! I asked the company if they tell people up front they will need an outlet capable of charging an EV to run their welder. I am smart enough so now I will make the time to build my own. I'm done with the cheap junk.
... from where I get such beefy wires??? 🤔 ... buy a starter helper kit! 🤓 (this cables you need when your battery of your car is down and a friendly helper assits you with his car electric...) You get two fat cables, (red and black, so you can even choose the colour or build a second spot welder 😜) and a length of around 3 meters, and... for cheap and in the next car shop! Hope I could help someone! ✌
Love the work, but I have to be a prick and tell you that the rotary disc you used to cut the plastic enclosure with is for cutting glass. You'll get much cleaner cuts with the serrated discs with teeth used for wood/plastic😉
Hi, is there any significant differences between this one and the other one you made in 2019 ? Thanks for your mindblowing videos, if I convert my bike into an electyrical one some day it will be thanks to you !!)
Hi! Sorry for a late reply. This spot welder that I have made is practically the same as I made before, using almost the same components. The main difference is that I used 35 squared mm cable for the windings to get 4 tight windings and used longer cables for the welder handle to make it more comfortable to weld. Truly means a lot that I inspired / helped you on the road to build your own e-bike. Would love to go for a ride once you finish yours, haha! Thanks again and best of luck. Keep me updated if there's anything else I can help you with.
3 ปีที่แล้ว +1
Thanks for the answer! I think I will work on electrifying mi bike in september. If you are going to Marseille (southern France) let me know and I will take you around the city... With ebikes of course ^^
You can also insulate wire with glass sleve as it has no heat effect unlike heat shrink,,,,,custom build better product with high quality components than 200dollar spotweild
Nice.
A few comments - high V solder instead of crimp connections can be a failure point, as can one thin layer of heat-shrink as a strain relief, then the case should be grounded metal for numerous safety & emissions reasons, and case bolts being accessible from the outside while exposed inside to wiring is another failure point, then is the power inlet appropriately fused?
One minor point is that exposed electrical components can be damaged from ESD so protecting them would eliminate another failure point. Are the high V windings thermally fused? High voltage cables should also be double insulated, especially if subject to wear, etc.
Stay safe out there ; )
You don't have any high Voltage cable on the secondary coils (here between 1,7 and 3,5V, variable with the rounds you choose, approximatively 1V per round) but simply high Amperage cable with very low voltage..... which is absolutely not dangerous . With such a low voltage the current cannot run through the skin of your fingers if you hold both electrodes separate in the same hand and switch on ( please no direct contact between electrodes !)...but most of people would not try to do this , when they see the welding result....
It's exactly the same as if you hold both electrodes of a 12V car battery with 650 amps/output with your hands...nothing happens....and if you put a copper wire it burns very fast . But I agree that a double insulation would be safer, simply to avoid a ground short between cable and sharp angles of the transfo by abrasion.
Low voltage (till 40/50V max), even with high amps, is not dangerous, except with a direct metallic connection like here for welding. In this case danger comes not from current but from heat .
High voltage with low amperage is very dangerous : current runs through the skin and blocks quickly the heart (tetanisation)..... But a defibrillator uses this current with very short pulse (and contraction) to start the heart again.
High voltage with high amperage...Heart locks down and you "burn" immediately.
Removing thick isolation and replacing it with thinner heatshrink tube is really nice idea. Just to be safe I'd have use 2 layers of heatshrink, for sharp edges on the core.
It's actually a horrible and dangerous idea, when you do that you have basically killed the rating on said wire and even 2 layers of heat shrink will never give it near as good as the protection as the original sheathing, not to mention the wire is no longer UL listed which might seem like a small thing and just being anal about but in the event of a fire/accident these are the first thing that insurance companies look for and can totally invalidate any claim, but of course in said event human lives are the most important thing. Overall though the rest of the project was very well done.
Thanks! Even with one layer of heatshrink tube I had a hard time getting the cable 4 times around the transformer.
@@DonnyTerek That doesn't excuse you taking the sheathing off, in that case you can find bigger transformer so it will have bigger openings or get a different type of wire, there is all types of insulations, some more flexible than others with possibly same rating.
@@Mayhem2019 ohhh, bro don't be so anal
@@pacikla6364 Do as you please, I could care less, can't see it from my house lol, when I came up in electrical trade and through technical college, I was only given 2 options doing it right or wrong, over 17 years in commercial/residential/industrial electrical I got to see first-hand the consequences of both ways, I don't recall being anal being an option but that's the difference between some people I guess, some care more than others, I commented on doing it the right way because many here don't know the difference between the two, but each is free to do their own will.
Donny Terek is brilliant. The one thing that bothered me is I didn't see him test for shorts before he put the enclosure on. I'm sure he did and that step was just edited out.
He probably has his own way of testing without worry!
yes but he showed us how to drill a hole and do a screw up .... the secondary side why strip the cable back and use heat shrink
Where? Can u add min?
Made one like this, I found I am getting factory like welds with no indents on battery from pressing too hard or burn marks by setting my current: @ 70 and time: @ 5 or 6 milliseconds. No need to press the strip down too much, just enough to hold it in place is enough. I did not like the springs on the welding pen as they require too much pressure to trigger the microswitch so got a foot pedal instead. Thanks Donny.
Thank you so much for attempting to build one yourself! Glad to see you are satisfied with the results.
Nice tip about removing fat insulation on the LV cables and using heat shrink.
May i know the reason? is it to compensate more turn?
Just a quick question if I may, I can understand the timer section of the controller selecting how many cycles of mains is being switched into the large transformer, but the current side of the controller is only switching the primary side, which I would imagine you do not want to restrict. So do you actually use the current limit function of the controller?
This electronic unit controls the turn-on time, pause and current that enters the primary winding of the transformer.
.
Этот электронный блок, управляет временем включения, паузой и током, который поступает на первичную обмотку трансформатора.
@@S_e_r_g_ei OK thanks
using copper/tungsten tips adds that last touch, those tips are much harder than copper alone and the high current doesnt bother the tungsten at all.you can feel the difference in the weld.
I think CuCrZr is much better than CuW.
Grat build - thanks fo the parts list - It would be a good idea to add a big as possible heat sink to the mosfet to extend its lifespan ... (mosfet will be the weakest componet over time, maybe strengthen the outgoing leads on the PCB with solder or soldered copper wires)
Thanks!
Actually the mosfet barely warms up after making numerous welds.
Hi Donny, very nice building for your DIY spotwelder.!
But I must say I built one and compared with my not DIY other one. The problem with the board of the DIY is that we can only select power (amps) and welding time , but all of this only for ONE continuous pulse.
The other one adds a choice for several pulses (1 to 6), each one 20millisec,, so it's not necessary to have a precise regulation of the values, the welding is always good and first of all the nickel stripe cannot burn. That happens sometimes with the DIY : for a good welding I am always at the burning limit (you too on the video, with brown circles around the weld) ; if not ,ther's no welding. It's because ther's only one high impulse. With 3 pulses we don't need so much power . I don't know if we could find now such a board for the DIY. It would be the Best!
i add that with the DIY I am not always sure of weld quality, sometimes very good, sometimes not, so for high discharge battery (like for power drill or cordless vacuum) I don't use the DIY....and for a motorcycle battery I always solder (more than 100amps for starting)
But for use of "the good one" I need a 40A protection, so I have a special switch in the garage. The DIY can be connected on every switch in the house.
Friendly, Michel.
Hello, thank you for the informative comment. I believe I saw a few different DIY boards for spot welders that can produce several pulses but haven't tested any of them myself yet. I may do that for my other spot welder build and compare it to this one. But I do agree that it is sometimes difficult to get a proper weld using the DIY welder.
@@DonnyTerek I think it's because we must always be at the burning limit with the DIY, and sometimes the electrodes are as "glued" on the nickel stripe . So after ripping them from the stripe they are dirty with some nickel glued on the weld point, and contact quality is no more good .
So it's necessary to brush very often the points with sandpaper if we use the DIY , always perfectly clean.....but take care that both points must have exactly the same contact surface (half-round) . If not, we have more intensity on the thinnest one, that gives spark and sometimes a hole in the stripe.
@@Michel-Artois Yes, I have noticed that too but not only with DIY welders, same goes with the SQ-SW1 that is shown in the video. After a few minutes of welding the electrodes start to stick to the surface so I lightly sand them with a soft sanding sponge.
I was defeated as soon as I saw the transformer and saw lol
Наконечники можно за 5 сек молотком опоесовать. Когда затягивает клемму на сварочные концы, то её надо держать пассатижами или ключом 13 накидным
Your work is so neat and final product always looked like factory products.. Love your work..
Thank you so much! Very much appreciated.
@@DonnyTerek OMG you replied.. This means a lot to me..
Good work my Friend💯🙂🤝🍀
Тысячу раз сделано в России, начали делать несколько лет назад, как только появились ВЧ печи - микроволновки! Лично у меня 4 витка проводом 25 кв. мм. Этот трансформатор (от микроволновки) нельзя держать постоянно под напряжением (перегрев), поэтому я управляю сваркой включая и выключая напряжение на первичную (220В.) обмотку, а устройство регулировки запитано от отдельного трансформатора на ~220/12 Вольт
If you already have MOT its cheap, but I bought online so much cheap, its a mosfet spot welderl board $5 to $7 spot welder cheap just a few screw ready to use 12vdc lead acid , lithium batt any batt 12vdc, with adjustable power, automatic
When you turned the power up on your welder, my lights dimmed. Yeah, think I'll take yours. Nicely done.
Haha, that cracked me up 😄😄 thank you!
Have you seen the 100A lcd timing control units? They do a double pulse! only a few USD extra!
I have, will have to try that board on my next build.
Awesome design! Also, I love the way this is filmed!
Great build and helpful list of components. This is one of the best videos I've seen and shows what can be achieved by careful, skilled and methodical working.
So 10ms with the Sequre SQ-SW1, but I couldn't make out what you set yours to at 14:22. Yours produced welds as good as I see on most battery component tabs. But my tabs are 0.3x6mm and that is why I'm looking for examples of what other folk are doing to for inspiration but not seen anyone spot 0.3mm
Thank you! Glad to see you found my video helpful.
It was set to 06-80 at that time. These may differ from build to build due to different wound cables, thickness etc. Haven't had a chance to weld 0.3 nickel myself yet. I double or triple stack thinner pieces if needed. Hold just fine.
Простая сварка, без выпендриваний.
th-cam.com/video/RVt1dxiC3dw/w-d-xo.html
Donny ,How much would you like to sell the one you made ?
i would be interreste in buying 1.
Is it really cheap?
Hi!, I'd like to build this spot welder because my old doesn't really that effective anymore. Can you tell what this part thing called? 6:59 It'll be very helpful if answered. Thanks!
welding bayonet socket
this is well done! i went for broke and made one with a 500A starter solenoid a car jump pack and a micro switch the total cost was £20 😂
Awesome, thank you!
I made the same one the same as in this video total cost £10.
The only different I need a aluminium box.
I used pre-owned copper and wires.
Thanks for your video. Could you let know the ampere of the welding controller?
Hi Donny, what is the cheapest welder which you would recommend for DIY stuff at home?
Nice project👍 I will made this welder. Your's 35mm2 wire is from Poland (Elpar factory) Greetings from Poland
Thanks! Haha, that's awesome! Great cable, by the way.
Cara muito bom bom trabalho. Gostei. Mais quais os riscos.!!!
E precauções que devo tomar.?
Hello, Can the self-made spot welder be operated on a normal household network or can that lead to problems? I've heard that people have talked about the danger of smoldering fires, which makes me a little unsettled.
It's a normal microwave oven transformer. It uses the same power.
this is difference sharpnes spoting between ac or dc power source,, well done video,,
Нужно ставить минимум 2 трансформатора, а то и 3 потому что мощности одного не хватит для сварки более менее толстой ленты
This is basically advanced ASMR - Very cool
Thank you!
Thanks for sharing! How many volts does your MOT Spot Welder measures at the output? Mine is about 2.7V.
Many thanks for this excellent video, Donny. It is a pleasure to watch.
What pulse width and current settings work best for your spot welder?
Many thanks to you for such a kind comment! Glad to see you enjoyed the video.
As you may have seen in the video, I got pretty good results setting the pulse at 06 and the current at 80. Seems to produce quite strong welds.
in MOT spot welder, you are using too much longer and thin wires with pen, your transformer is small, and another thing i have noticed is that those quick release connectors add resistance to the system, when you connect pen wires directly to the secondary of MOT, you will notice better results, another thing is - don't exceed 03 setting for time in the NY-D01 controller, i have spot welders doing great welds at 02 max, usually with bigger transformer welds at 01msec.
Thanks for the informative comment! Much appreciated.
This build is definitely not perfect and could use a few tweaks and mods but overall I am happy with the results it produces.
Thanks for testing sequre spot welder,good job.👍👍
Thank you! 👍
Actually, your welds looks better than the bought unit. What seems "not as good" to you is that you're seeing the heat affected zone, which indicates a larger heat input capacity in your machine.
Very well said, thank you!
Could you add a link to the spring loaded punch you're using?
Always wanted to know how well will it do on copper wire to a audio connector(brass).
great project, I will try to make some day.
Thank you, best of luck!
Why you need that , it's difficult to make by girls, buy 1 readymade , or use a pc smps if you need 20 Amp
@@Blue.star1 20 amps? Spot welders se upwards of 500 amps.
If you will be able to make it i want to buy one piece for myself
Such a beautiful build except the segment display, why did you mount it outside???
Thanks! It is easier to mount the display outside since I don't need to make any ugly cutouts on the panel itself. I could have used a bit shorter standoffs though.
I have everything identical as you do in your video, no box and slightly different copper wire - thicker strands. BUT my heats up the battery, but no welds! What do you think is wrong? Should I replace the wire with smaller strands, but same thickness? Thanks.
You're a Legend! keep doing this kind of work! Thanks 😊👍
As long as I receive comments like these, I will! Thanks! ✌
For an 0.15 and 10 mm nickel strip what setting should be used?.I builded one aproximately the same
Better late than never. Heed some of the safety precautions offered. l might add, wrapping the transformer core with a layer or two of insulating tape like Kapton®, before winding the secondary to mitigate any sharp edges bearing on the shrink sleeve insulation.. That said, your is a great build. Thanks for posting. Can I ask what wattage microwave was the transformer taken from?
Thank you! I believe it was a 800W transformer.
Can the transformer be used for soldering 18650 batteries without that control module?
Most definitely not.
Great Work.A sound indicator would be nice too.Like some Mini spotwelder has
Thanks! Not necessary, but I agree it would make it nicer.
@@DonnyTerek I like this beeping Sound when a weld is done.Of course not necessary but a nice Feature.Only because of this i ordered the MinderRC DH30 Mini spotwelder.My other Welder dont make Sound😅
Cheers
@@sebw396412:17
Hi, well done with the inspirational project! It would be great to compare the performance of those standard 800w transformers with the double pulse control board which only cost a few euros extra! Also can you coment about the need od the 40A vs 100A thyristor?
Many thanks for sharing this work!
Hi, thank you much! I might try the double pulse control board since I still have a few spare microwave oven transformers laying around. I can only assume that the 100A thyristor can withstand a higher current.
Thank you!
Can you show me what controller are you talking about? Thanks.
No way that cost less than the Sequre, more if we take in account many tools that no many have.
I found someone to ask ...)))
This "master" can only assemble the finished product.
And technically - he's dumb.))
.
Нашёл у кого спрашивать... )))
Этот "мастер" только может собрать готовый продукт.
А технически - он тупой. ))
For what reason do you use 6AWG cable for the pen? Wouldn’t it be better to use the same cable as the transformer to avoid losing amperage?
The 6AWG cables are of the SQ-SW1 spot welder that are included, not my DIY build.
She works like a piece of art. Congrats.
Thanks!
Nice build, dude 😁
How much did you spend (approximately, not including the transformer) on the DIY welder? 😊
Thanks!
Well I got the transformer for free, the welding pen, controller board and the 9V transformer were around 35$ in total. A few meters of copper cable was 15$, and the plastic case was 8$. Include other bits and pieces which totals to around 60-65$. I think it's well worth it 😄
DIY so good if not better.
Вещь конечно крутая. Но если надо собрать одну сборку для своей дрели, то лучше купить с соединительной пластиной
Fantastic! I'll be ordering these parts when I get time for this to be my next project.
Awesome, thanks for watching!
Hi
🤭🤣🤣🤣😂😂🤗
With the shipping delays for the components, I'll be on to another project when the parts arrive. 😉
We're. Can i get d part pls d link of all d part
Dude hello 😊
Do sell the ready one ?
Io ,dico bella esecuzione, ho fatto anche io una saldatrice simile ,ma ho un timer che non regola bene. Hai tu un link dove posso comprare la scheda di registrazione? Grazie, per me hai fatto un bel lavoro
Hello master, your projects are very well done, congratulations. I have a doubt: you bought 3 m of 35mm2 cable but used it to actually wind only 1.3 m or 1.7 m? Because in the video (1:24 min), you cut the cable with 1.3 m.
Ele usou 1,3m para enrolar. Os 1,7 restantes, ele usou para a manopla de solda ( o mesmo cabo pois a amperagem é alta).
How did you determine the size of secondary transformer conductor required? I wonder if a smaller cable could be used and if so there might be adjustments to the timing for a good weld. Nice work!
Thanks! Doing a bit of research on DIY spot welders, I found that the 35mm squared copper cable is best for a job like this to get as many (4 in this case) windings of cable around the transformer for higher current output.
Not trying to be a know it all here but isn't it less wraps thicker copper for more juicier welds?
@@daltonndickeyy3545 My thinking was if we substitute a little less current with a little more time and generate the same amount of heat. Theoretically, that should work. I'm just a welding novice.
@@daltonndickeyy3545 You're "spot" on. the larger the copper conductor the larger current it can handle without melting down the insuation only after 5 welds.. Also less loops means less voltage whch prevents arcing and more currrent to get to 200A. Asa Shemon says, the pulse witdth will determine the amount of power delivered. Since we want the shorter possible time because it burns through the nickel strip, we sure want to deliver the maximum current through that transformer.
Where did you get all these components from,and what name should i ask for ordering them?i would like also to give me some guide for coneting big transformer with other part or some drawn scheme,thnx in advance.
Hi! Please check the description of the video for links to the parts. Wiring diagram is also included.
@Donny Terek Did you indicate the live and neutral cables as Brown And Blue in the video? Or colours were chosen randomly?
Hi! Random colors chosen.
The welding point turn black after welding. This problem will affect battery pack quality. This will not happen to our spot welding machine
What value of pulse and current should I use on a .15x5mm nickel strip
Why is it so hard to buy a battery welder?.
1. The cheap ones are crap.
2. The expensive crappy ones requires a powerfull house fuse.
3. The more expensive than that is just too much..
If that's 3A transformer 220v then the I value are 660watt. If make 3 turn coil that will be 0,4 volt output. So that's 1650A spot welding
Not sure of the rating of that transformer, but seems to be about right.
Dear Donny.
Your video is the best on the entire TH-cam!
I subscribed and I'm going to recommend your channel to everyone I know around.
Keep going you're doing a great job!
Great video! can you use it on thicker nickel strips (0.2mm)? Thanks.
Thank you! I haven't tested that myself actually. Though I have read that 0.15mm is the limit for Sequre welder.
Hello. I am also collecting the materials to make. I'm thinking of using a 25mm2 cable, but I'm confused about the amperage value. In some videos they used 35mm2 cable. The copper part of 25mm2 cables is 6.8mm. I think this is not enough. When you peel off the outer shell and fold the cable in half, the copper part becomes 13.6 mm. Do you think this is enough?
Chập làm 3
Is this just super low voltage super high current AC? How does the controller board interface with the high current circuit? Does it interrupt the AC primary? I didn't see where/how the controller board is attached to control the pulse. Really nice build!
Yes, it is only 3-4 Volts AC, with high current pulses. You can find the wiring diagram in the description of this video. It regulates the input to the primary coil.
Great project...
Thank you for sharing the knowledge. And the wiring diagram is really helpful.
I think I have to make this one....
God bless you..🙏
Какое SQ кабеля (диаметр медной части)?Достаточно ли 2м?Что значит заморачиваться с заменой покрытия?
Какие два модуля вы используете?Можете ли вы купить его на амазоне?Я тоже сделал его,но даже если лента для подключения батареи станет красной,он будет приклеен как у вас.Нет,я использую только трансформатор,но как сделать красивую и крепкую связь?
th-cam.com/video/nrXNvQDrZpk/w-d-xo.html 800W / 0,15 mm / 20ms / 54%
Good work.
Why you use heat shrink with wire instead of the wire cover
Thanks! The heat shrink is thinner than the sleeve of the cable therefore it is easier to wind it through the transformer.
@@DonnyTerek can i do it without using the timer delay board . Just use switch on off
Where to buy the display and control board ?
Please check the description for a link.
+ and - Needs to be shrink wrapped totally there's no way I would let that be that close to eachother
Just curious but the way you did that solder instead of crimping I would think is better than any crimp you could do, is it not? I mean instead of 30% of the wire pressed against the shell of the pressed connector with solder you have 100% contact.. Sorta wondering why that's not standard its better in every way other that someone crimping it for speed or out of laziness.
Well I thought so too but upon some reading, the solder has some resistance so crimping the cables produces a much better connection since the cable strands are compressed tightly against the surface of the lug.
@@DonnyTerek okay see this is what I love, so correct me if I'm wrong but I assume it's because electrons flow on the surface of metals so maybe crimping them somehow gives them more surface area where binding them in direct metal actually limits the surface area.. Am I even close?
@@jujjuj7676 I can't tell you for sure on the scientific level but the fact is that the solder induces more resistance compared to the crimped connection.
Very good project. I made one like her and it was successful
Great project although with the rest of it being so clean I would’ve cut two small windows for the displays and mounted that board inside the inclosure.
Thanks! Thought of doing that but did not want to cut ugly and uneven square holes for the displays.
@@DonnyTerek I know what you mean. I can do a lot of things well but cutting perfect holes isn’t one of them especially small ones like that lol
Haha, exactly.
Хватит ли кабеля (диаметр медной части) 2м, в чем смысл замены покрытия? Какие два модуля вы используете, можете ли вы купить их на амазоне, я сделал это, но даже если лента для подключения батареи станет красной, ее нельзя склеить, как у вас, используйте Только трансформатор используется, но как мы можем сделать красивую и крепкую связь?
Nice job.
Regarding how your welds look in comparison with the SQ-SW1 welds, could it be the shape of the pen's contact ends? the SQ-SW1's look a bit rounder than the ones on the pen you used.
Thanks!
I haven't actually considered that, might look into it or try swapping the pens to see the result.
That’s exactly what I was about to type I know I’m late to the party, that’s most likely what caused the difference, maybe even down to something as simple as the surface finish of the contact tip could affect also
Like your build but i think the cables could be thinner. They look uncomfortable
Using thick cables here on purpose.
My microwave has no big transformer like that. How come?
You didn't put enough solder into the cable lugs
what is the power of transformer? and which AWG used?
I believe it is 900W transformer. The cables are 35mm2
Great job! Thank you very much for sharing! 👍👍👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Counter top appliances have welded wire conndectons instead of soldered connections due to heat. Can these small welders repair these types of connections.
Depends on the thickness of the connection, I guess. Most the spot welder can do is 0.2mm.
Why strip the insulation, just to put the heatshrink insulation on? I assume the originalninsulator was too thick to fit into the transformer... but this isnt explained what soever
Yes, the original insulation is too thick to achieve 4 windings inside the transformer.
Wow super work 🔥 INDIA 🇮🇳
Hey Donny, I accidentally damaged the primary coil when removing the secondary one, do I have to start over with a new transformer or is there any way toi salvage it? I have severed like 2 wires in the bundle
Hopefully it's 2 end wires and not the center else you would need new primary coil
Try soldering them back
If there is any chance you damaged insulation so that two turns can short out, the transformer is toast.
Hey, I would try cutting them, placing an insulator under the cut part and soldering the ends back together.
@@DonnyTerek thanks, im probably gonna get a new transformer
Thank you, everyone says "buy the kweld" well the kweld is 900 canadian dollars so this DIY welder will do nicely for me !
I agree. I've bought 2 handheld that died or never worked and a bench top version that they have told me needs a 40-60A outlet! I asked the company if they tell people up front they will need an outlet capable of charging an EV to run their welder. I am smart enough so now I will make the time to build my own. I'm done with the cheap junk.
Wow, didn't know the kweld costs that much canadian. Definitely go for the DIY version!
... from where I get such beefy wires??? 🤔 ... buy a starter helper kit! 🤓 (this cables you need when your battery of your car is down and a friendly helper assits you with his car electric...) You get two fat cables, (red and black, so you can even choose the colour or build a second spot welder 😜) and a length of around 3 meters, and... for cheap and in the next car shop! Hope I could help someone! ✌
how many volts are on the secondary cables
I believe I measured around 3-4V.
I order one mobile by battery I can adjust all and I weld battery for repair charger for phone drill I spend just $50
Love the work, but I have to be a prick and tell you that the rotary disc you used to cut the plastic enclosure with is for cutting glass.
You'll get much cleaner cuts with the serrated discs with teeth used for wood/plastic😉
Thanks! The rotary disc cuts plastics just fine and leave a very nice edge once the solidified plastic is removed.
@@DonnyTerek fair enough 😉
Hi, is there any significant differences between this one and the other one you made in 2019 ?
Thanks for your mindblowing videos, if I convert my bike into an electyrical one some day it will be thanks to you !!)
Someone? Pliiiiiz!
Hi! Sorry for a late reply.
This spot welder that I have made is practically the same as I made before, using almost the same components. The main difference is that I used 35 squared mm cable for the windings to get 4 tight windings and used longer cables for the welder handle to make it more comfortable to weld.
Truly means a lot that I inspired / helped you on the road to build your own e-bike. Would love to go for a ride once you finish yours, haha!
Thanks again and best of luck. Keep me updated if there's anything else I can help you with.
Thanks for the answer!
I think I will work on electrifying mi bike in september. If you are going to Marseille (southern France) let me know and I will take you around the city... With ebikes of course ^^
@ o
hi Iis that electronic board necessary and if it is can you tell me where to buy it thanks
Please check the description.
What is the spot welder controller specs. What is the current?
Hi! You can check the link in the description for the controller for more info.
@@DonnyTerek I would like to know the spec too, but the link to AliExpress is not working for me. Is your controller 40A or 100A? Many thanks!
Sorry for the broken link, will have it replaced right away. If I remember correctly, I used 100A controller.
Thank you for such a wonderful video. When you touch the electrode while spot welding, will it shock?
Thank you! No, it is safe to touch since the voltage is very low (3-4 V)
@@DonnyTerek pls were can a get d part or d link of were to buy them pls
Hi there, what is the reason for removing the magnetic shunt pieces in the transformer? 1:05
Hi, sorry for the late reply. The shunt pieces are not needed for this purpose since they limit the current to the secondary coil.
awesome project! regards from ARG
Thank you a lot!
Really I want to make it
La placa que utilizó controla tanto la tensión y amperaje al transformador? De antemano Gracias y saludos buen video..👍
Hi! Thank you! The board only controls the amperage of the primary coil.
Pulse bord required. Where it is available?
Please check the links in the description. Pulse board - bit.ly/3KyGgOF
You can also insulate wire with glass sleve as it has no heat effect unlike heat shrink,,,,,custom build better product with high quality components than 200dollar spotweild
That's a great idea, thanks!