Safety First! one time I had 4 in disk blew apart I was cutting steel a small piece half in by half in hit me in the face and stuck in the center of the safety glasses almost be came a one eyed jack that day please! for the love of Pete put the safety glasses on! That alone could change your hole life. Awesome truck dude
Loving this build. This one is so me! On the water pump to Rad clearance I'd just trim that excess nub off the water pump with a cut off wheel. You just need enough to mount the pulley.
Hey bud. The radiator cap and dryer over flow spout is like that because the radiator should be above the core support. Raise your it up. That will solve that problem and give a little clearance with the water pumping also. Looking goood.
Ok, I might be crazy, and it might be pricey (hopefully you could source one secondhand), but I think this C60 needs _at least_ an 871 Detroit Blower, if not a 1071 Blower sticking out of the inevitable hood.... plus either a 66 step side bed, or a nice _simple_ and _clean_ flatbed made of a tube perimeter with wood floor, and just some stations /mounts to mount it to the frame....no backrack, no fenders, no boxes... just the perimeter frame, wood, and some round incandescent lights mounted underneath it. (I'd still prefer the 66 stepside though, but definitely the blower!! 😅)
I'm loving it brother, this is going to be a great looking build. It was surprising to see the brakes and steering work out so well, thought there would be more fabrication involved. Great channel bro, keep up the good work.👌🤘👍🇺🇸🔥🔥
Remember to counterbore the steering shafts where all the set screws lock the joints to the shafts. Those set screws need a seat. Don't forget loctite too
Looking good 👍 I wish I wasn’t so lazy about editing 😅 been driving mine around town for like a month but according to TH-cam it’s still just a bare chassis 😂
Usually those fans if you wire them opposite it will change the direction so you can have it a pull through fan or push through. Maybe flip the rad around and have the fan in the front. It will give you more clearance and the overflow nipple will be in a better spot
Use the original 66 steering wheel, keep the character of the truck. You may have to weld a modern hub (Silverado) center hub into the vintage wheel to make it work though.
I've done this style swap with a GMC Yukon xl. I used a radiator from 1960 to 62 c10 it was less fabrication and top hose was just one flex hose to fit. Just another an option.
The C10 swapped is looking cool. with alittle fab-work, some elbow grease, and some Englishtown engineering, she will be one of the top set-up in town..
New here. I like the content. So far, I've only watched the C60 videos. I'm with you on not using that Chrome column. If for nothing else, it's Chrome. 😆 Keep up the good work.
It'll be interesting to see if your (formerly manual brake arm) pushrod pivot point leverage ratio works out with your (now power brake) booster. Manual brakes typically have the pushrod pivot point higher on the pedal arm to allow greater leverage,,,, your boosted master won't need as much leverage. Thus, the ratio can be much less for the boosted master, and as such will allow for much less pedal travel (as in modern vehicles).
Would love if you were able to show the wiring and how you are doing it and what things are called, what parts you orders and stuff like that if that is possible
Not sure if you'll do it but when you finalize the steering you should dimple your double d shaft were the bolts tighten it helps them stay put in sure you would prolly so that anyway it was an observation
Just so you know, you should always try to make your brackets out of sheet _steel_ and NOT aluminum, as aluminum will stress fracture going down the road....it should be fine if you make 4 for all 4 mounts, but for future reference.... once it's bent once, it's work hardened, if it gets bent, or vibrates back the opposite way enough times, it'll snap
Semi trucks use aluminum brackets. They're thicker but they use them. Probably varies with the type of aluminum you're using as well because just like steel not all aluminum is the same
Hey there, love the progress on this thing. Its looking badass. Out of curiosity do you have to weld in a bung to the radiator for the steam port for use on the LS? Also are you thinking about shortening the frame for bed? If so that would look sweet and I would just fab up some extensions to the running boards to keep the flow to the rear wheel arch.
I’ll probably use an adapter block for the rad hose like I did in my Buick for the steam port. The frame I’m kinda up in the air I think I’ll just leave it long so it kinda looks like the og truck with the long bed make a flat bed for at and add some tool boxes under it to meet the bottom step
This truck is supposed to be a rustomod not a rustoperfect. I'd use that steering column the way it is, and just hang an air freshener off that column key location. I'd also install a small flat steering wheel instead of a deep steering wheel.
Question but could you run car accessories and water pump like Camaro and that would bring the pulleys and belts closer to the motor giving you more space for a radiator and elec fans ?
Yes issue is the car balancer is a different offset then the truck one so you can swap everything but it would be a lot of work to change it all you can run a Camaro pump on a truck with water pump spacers tho I did that on our Buick build
bonjour . dans parametre piste audio pourrais tu mettre language francais .. merci ..Good morning . in audio track parameter could you put French language.. thank you..
I don't understand why you just didn't use the old c60 steering column. Yeah you might have to do some modifications. But i don't see why it wouldn't work out in the end. If i was you i would take a good look at the original and think on it a few days. They all work out the same. Also you could still use the original wheel if you did that. I'm just the kind of guy that likes to use what I have, so to save money. Seen a couple of places you could of done that. But oh well. Still hoping that you're going to do some metal work on those fenders. Those are kinda mug ugly definitely in need of some heavy metal work. Personally i hate them big flares!
@Rustomod you may be able to cut it down. That's what I would try first. I have seen other guys do that. But you will have to weld a new end on the bottom of the shaft. Another thought would be to find a c10 one. But first I would try to shorten it. That's if that is possible.
I don’t think I’ve ever seen a chassis swap brake setup workout that easy before…steering was simple also! Win Win 💥😎💥😎
Yeah pretty awesome
Nice work man! Looks like reusing the brake booster was a huge time saver. This thing is coming together!
Yeah I'm glad I went that route!
Safety First! one time I had 4 in disk blew apart I was cutting steel a small piece half in by half in hit me in the face and stuck in the center of the safety glasses almost be came a one eyed jack that day please! for the love of Pete put the safety glasses on!
That alone could change your hole life.
Awesome truck dude
Best build on TH-cam. Excited to see this one done 🤘🏻👊🏻
Dude I had no idea this uploaded 😂
Loving this build. This one is so me! On the water pump to Rad clearance I'd just trim that excess nub off the water pump with a cut off wheel. You just need enough to mount the pulley.
That’s what I’m thinking
Hey bud. The radiator cap and dryer over flow spout is like that because the radiator should be above the core support. Raise your it up. That will solve that problem and give a little clearance with the water pumping also. Looking goood.
Love the build finally the work horses get some love
Me too!
Ok, I might be crazy, and it might be pricey (hopefully you could source one secondhand), but I think this C60 needs _at least_ an 871 Detroit Blower, if not a 1071 Blower sticking out of the inevitable hood.... plus either a 66 step side bed, or a nice _simple_ and _clean_ flatbed made of a tube perimeter with wood floor, and just some stations /mounts to mount it to the frame....no backrack, no fenders, no boxes... just the perimeter frame, wood, and some round incandescent lights mounted underneath it. (I'd still prefer the 66 stepside though, but definitely the blower!! 😅)
If you cut the section out of the firewall of the donor vehicle and weld it into the build werks great
I've been waiting for this channel! That's awesome! Can't wait to see next one!
More to come!
I would love to build something like this. It is nice.
Thanks!
I'm loving it brother, this is going to be a great looking build. It was surprising to see the brakes and steering work out so well, thought there would be more fabrication involved. Great channel bro, keep up the good work.👌🤘👍🇺🇸🔥🔥
Appreciate it!
Oh yeah ❤☮️
well done sir!
Thank you
See if you can hook up the heater core and blower fan from the c10 into the c60
Thanks
I kind of dig the spot lights on the bumper.
Same they are staying
Very nostalgic. My first vehicle was a long-bed 1963 Chevy panel truck with similar front-end styling.
Those trucks were cool!
Remember to counterbore the steering shafts where all the set screws lock the joints to the shafts. Those set screws need a seat. Don't forget loctite too
Definitely will do I didnt do it yet because im still figuring it out but great point!
New recent sub, cool project as well as past projects! Showing support 👍
Appreciate the support!
Looking good 👍 I wish I wasn’t so lazy about editing 😅 been driving mine around town for like a month but according to TH-cam it’s still just a bare chassis 😂
Yeah I hear ya!
Usually those fans if you wire them opposite it will change the direction so you can have it a pull through fan or push through. Maybe flip the rad around and have the fan in the front. It will give you more clearance and the overflow nipple will be in a better spot
Cool truck
Thank you
Lovin this build! I like your thoughts on how your doing this. Lookin great.
Thanks!
I want! I want! I NEED this!!!😍
Start building!
I’d suggest a ididit steering column! Very cost effective and gets the job done! Keep up the great work! I love this build.
Ill have to reach out to them I had this one in hand probably will order one soon.
@@Rustomodi second the ididit column i put one in my 64GMC works perfectly in
This is really coming together! Nice 👍
This is going to be crazy cool
Thanks !
Love this build!❤❤❤❤❤
Looks awesome 👍👍
Thanks!
Use the original 66 steering wheel, keep the character of the truck. You may have to weld a modern hub (Silverado) center hub into the vintage wheel to make it work though.
I've done this style swap with a GMC Yukon xl. I used a radiator from 1960 to 62 c10 it was less fabrication and top hose was just one flex hose to fit. Just another an option.
Good tip! I'll check that out.
The C10 swapped is looking cool. with alittle fab-work, some elbow grease, and some Englishtown engineering, she will be one of the top set-up in town..
Yessir!
New here. I like the content. So far, I've only watched the C60 videos.
I'm with you on not using that Chrome column. If for nothing else, it's Chrome. 😆
Keep up the good work.
Appreciate you checking out the channel!
It'll be interesting to see if your (formerly manual brake arm) pushrod pivot point leverage ratio works out with your (now power brake) booster. Manual brakes typically have the pushrod pivot point higher on the pedal arm to allow greater leverage,,,, your boosted master won't need as much leverage. Thus, the ratio can be much less for the boosted master, and as such will allow for much less pedal travel (as in modern vehicles).
We will find out might need some adjustments
What about the bed for it? Truck bed? Flatbed? Etc I've been wondering
Flat bed
@@Rustomodwith a jacuzzi
@@lancethelocal and a diving board
Weird way to say ramp truck @@Rustomod
I ordered a shirt can’t wait to get it.. 🤓
Would love if you were able to show the wiring and how you are doing it and what things are called, what parts you orders and stuff like that if that is possible
I definitely will explain how I do everything
U can cut about half that water pump hub ive done it in a pinch
Not sure if you'll do it but when you finalize the steering you should dimple your double d shaft were the bolts tighten it helps them stay put in sure you would prolly so that anyway it was an observation
Definitely
Assistindo em português.
O c60 brasileiro é diferente. Confira na Internet.
Should have used a 1 ton donor.
Just so you know, you should always try to make your brackets out of sheet _steel_ and NOT aluminum, as aluminum will stress fracture going down the road....it should be fine if you make 4 for all 4 mounts, but for future reference.... once it's bent once, it's work hardened, if it gets bent, or vibrates back the opposite way enough times, it'll snap
These are 5052 not 6061
Semi trucks use aluminum brackets. They're thicker but they use them. Probably varies with the type of aluminum you're using as well because just like steel not all aluminum is the same
Переверни радиатор вентилятором наружу и пипка подойдёт к расширительному бачку и кронштейны подойдут.
Looking good, my progress is slow… 1” double D shaft for hooking up to the rack and pinion?
Yes sir
Hey there, love the progress on this thing. Its looking badass. Out of curiosity do you have to weld in a bung to the radiator for the steam port for use on the LS? Also are you thinking about shortening the frame for bed? If so that would look sweet and I would just fab up some extensions to the running boards to keep the flow to the rear wheel arch.
I’ll probably use an adapter block for the rad hose like I did in my Buick for the steam port. The frame I’m kinda up in the air I think I’ll just leave it long so it kinda looks like the og truck with the long bed make a flat bed for at and add some tool boxes under it to meet the bottom step
This truck is supposed to be a rustomod not a rustoperfect. I'd use that steering column the way it is, and just hang an air freshener off that column key location. I'd also install a small flat steering wheel instead of a deep steering wheel.
Yeah I’ll make it work!
I thought the radiator was in backwards
No the inlet is facing the engine
You keep saying "we", who is we? When you talk to yourself are you having a staff meeting? 😎
Me and my wife that helps me out behind the scenes
Question but could you run car accessories and water pump like Camaro and that would bring the pulleys and belts closer to the motor giving you more space for a radiator and elec fans ?
Yes issue is the car balancer is a different offset then the truck one so you can swap everything but it would be a lot of work to change it all you can run a Camaro pump on a truck with water pump spacers tho I did that on our Buick build
@Rustomod oh ok sweet thanks for the response I just figured it might help I also figured you already knew about that lol
Do you think I can use a 2008 Chevy 3500 express van for a project like yours.
Absolutely!
What size tires on those bigger wheels
22x9
Never liked the key on the column most everthing ive owned and currently own key is on the dash! 🇺🇲
Agreed
Would an older c10 pickup also fit on a silverado chasis?
Yes definitely if you see some of my older videos I did a 68 c10 on an Escalade frame
bonjour . dans parametre piste audio pourrais tu mettre language francais .. merci ..Good morning . in audio track parameter could you put French language.. thank you..
Do you know if you a ASTRO van one
I’m not sure but I bet it’s very similar
@@Rustomod they measure shorter
I don't understand why you just didn't use the old c60 steering column. Yeah you might have to do some modifications. But i don't see why it wouldn't work out in the end.
If i was you i would take a good look at the original and think on it a few days. They all work out the same. Also you could still use the original wheel if you did that.
I'm just the kind of guy that likes to use what I have, so to save money. Seen a couple of places you could of done that. But oh well.
Still hoping that you're going to do some metal work on those fenders. Those are kinda mug ugly definitely in need of some heavy metal work. Personally i hate them big flares!
Check out the first video of the build the original column is super long I’d like to use it but it’s way too long it would hit the ground haha
@Rustomod you may be able to cut it down. That's what I would try first.
I have seen other guys do that. But you will have to weld a new end on the bottom of the shaft.
Another thought would be to find a c10 one.
But first I would try to shorten it. That's if that is possible.
Drive to Puddin fab shop
just cut the end off of the water pump . i have been running it like that for 2 years
Maybe I’ll try that thanks!
👀☕️…….
Reach out to I did it
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