Hello Mr. Baldwin, Happy to see you’ve replied to a comment about a week ago. I hope you’re doing will and I await your next video. Nothing like ‘em! Thanks for everything.
Thanks for the comment. I've slowed down on the video uploads and boat work as I'm semi-retired now but plan to upload something soon on the Sandpiper 32 I'm currently working on and some update on the Cape Dory 36 playlist as we experiment with extending the range of the electric propulsion with portable gas generator.
Your work on "Ma Ha", as in all of your work, is amazing. I have loved being a student of AtomVoyager University over the years as I have learned so much from you. Thank you for posting your videos.
Another impeccable job! I’m very tempted to replace my main with a battenless main when the time comes. If ever you to a Q&A, I’d love to hear your opinion on the subject.
Most sailors on modern boats with short booms will want a full batten main to maximize sail area. But on these older boats with long booms and prone to excess weather helm, I prefer to sacrifice some light air performance with a battenless main because it is much less expensive, is lighter, easier to reef and stow when removing it, reduces weather helm, does not hang up so easy under the spreaders when unreefing off the wind, reduces the need for lazy jacks since it is smaller, and gives you a wider window before needing to put in the first reef. I do maximize the sail area though by increasing the length of the foot to place the clew as close to the end of the boom as possible. I prefer to increase the furling genoa area to make up the lost sail area as well as use light air headsails such as an asymmetric or furling code 0.
@@atomvoyager Wow, thanks for the info! The only downsides that I've read about, that matter to us, were that they lose their shape sooner (especially along the leech) and they are harder to tidy up on the boom. Luckily we have a few years still before we set of, so we will perform a roachectomy on our current main just to see how we like it before we have a new one made ;) Thanks again and happy holidays !!!
great tour, thank you! I'm curious if you would recommend the same ePropulsion electric outboard/custom well on a similar boat again? did you also consider an inboard electric? seems likely to have better regen with an inboard, and one could use a gas inverter generator to extend motoring distance in a similar way to having the gas outboard here.
The two boats I have installed epropulsion outboards on are using them while cruising and they are functioning well at the moment but I did have some issues with with them. I had two bad displays that fogged up due to the factory not sealing the lens and had one bad battery. It was a hassle to get replacements under warranty but eventually we did. Also, some design features are not ideal so I am not sure I can recommend them at this point. These boat owners wanted an outboard well with gas or electric motor option. They did not want an inboard installation of either type. There are many pros and cons to that as I outlined in the following article link. If you want to discuss it further you can email me your number at atomvoyages.com and I can phone you. atomvoyages.com/improved-outboard-well/
Very nice refit done to a beautiful boat, congratulations! Just to mention, if it helps, that the turnbuckle of your anchor shouldn't be directly attached to the eye of the anchor, but should be as this: Anchor + Lyre galvanized shackle + 3 slabs of chain + turnbuckle + rest of chain. This way you will avoid any possible lateral traction of the chain to the anchor through the swivel, a force for which it isn't designed for and that can easily lead to a failure of the swivel. With the shackle + the 3 slabs , the force will never be perpendicular to the swivel as the whole rode can rotate and align itself to the pulling direction. Merry christmas!
Thanks for that suggestion. To help the translation for others, I think he is saying to use a standard anchor shackle at the shank, then 3 links of chain, then the swivel, then the main part of chain to allow the whole assembly to articulate better without side loads on the swivel. This might happen during wind of current shift or if the anchor gets snagged on a coral head during retrieval. The reason we didn't initially add a shackle was because the swivel looks strong enough for this size boat with it's slightly oversized chain and a large shackle needed to fit this size anchor shank tends to hang up on the narrow roller. But with the right shackle and 3 links of chain this could be a better system.
I've been excited to watch this build, as I own hull #26, Is the aft locker and deck a fabbed modification? Interested to know the year and Hull number.
I don't recall the year and hull number but here's a video of how the outboard well was added to the lazarette locker: th-cam.com/video/xde6yRTvO2M/w-d-xo.html
He hasn't given up on it. After sea trials with both motors he is temporarily using the gas motor with its extended range as he gets more experience sailing this boat with its relatively underpowered motors. Once he gets comfortable with the limitations of the gas motor and gets more proficient with making passages and coastal hops mostly under sail, he plans to then see how he does with the further limitations of slightly reduced thrust and greatly reduced range of the electric motor. I hope to interview him later after his Bahamas cruise for an update on this.
Thanks. The portlight gasket is from McMaster-Carr - Ultra-Weather-Resistant EPDM Foam Cord, 1/2" Diameter #8605k44. I bought 100' for 16 portlights on two boats, but they sell 10' lengths as well: www.mcmaster.com/catalog/129/4032/8605K44
I wonder if one could do a lot better with custom prop matched to the boat. I also wonder about having an electric outboard with a 1 cylinder diesel generator under the cockpit..
Whatever compromises they made on the prop size I get the impression that they should offer a larger one for this purpose of pushing a heavy boat at 5-6 knots. The clients I have worked with want to avoid inboard diesel, even if a generator but yes some folks would go for that. Even though it does partly defeat the purpose of going electric there are some advantages to that if you really need the extra range. Another option for boats of this type would be to have an electric inboard and gas outboard in the lazarette well so that either could be used without the trouble of swapping them out. That gives you redundancy and extra range. But there are several downsides to that as well...
We'll done. Congrats! Been following this refit. We'll thought out. BTW Nearly all States have a 8'6" with limit. I have an Orion 27 with a 9'2" width so need to legally get permits everywhere. What was the solar arch from Tower installed on?
Thanks for the comment. The solar arch was on our escort boat that day, a Cape Dory 36. There is a separate video of that installation here: th-cam.com/video/WMSB0NBj6pE/w-d-xo.html
The bracket is a discontinued unbranded model that is no longer available. The closest thing I've seen to it is a RAM mount that I've used on other boats: www.hodgesmarine.com/ramram-109vu-ram-mount-single-6-swing-arm-with-625-x-2-re.html
I've recently purchased a cd27 (first sailboat, so stoked) and at the top of my list is anchor handling equipment; how did you go about getting the sprit on this one level? I'm not currently sure how to go about accommodating the slight curve on the deck.
If you are referring to the bow roller, I shaped the wood block base under it for a level fit using an angle grinder with 36 grit pad. It doesn't have to be perfectly level, just eyeball it. Here's more details at 12 minutes in the following video: th-cam.com/video/fKoW1a4cgN4/w-d-xo.html
One of your alberg rebuilds is currently for sale. Its the one you did about 7 years ago. has the aluminum toe rail. You built an a integral holding tank. How difficult would it be to remove it?
Not very difficult. Partly fill with water and pump out then cut out the top for the size lid you want and install a lid. There's no baffle inside to trouble you.
Hey, I have a 50yr old 26ft boat and I would like to put my outboard in a well, its on the back atm. I would like to put it in front of the rudder which means the well will be in about 15cm of water all the time. I am afraid it will cause quite a gushing of water in there when motoring and also resistance while motoring. What do you think?
I wouldn't build a submerged well where the motor is not easily tilted or lifted out of the water and a hull plug inserted to reduce turbulence and flooding. If the top of the well was say 40cm above the waterline and you were only sailing in protected waters such as a lake then you might get away with it. If you want to discuss it further you can contact me at atomvoyages.com and send photos of your transom, cockpit and dimensioned sketch of your plan.
There are several types available on ebay. I linked this one below and there's a complete parts list in my Dry Toilet video also linked below: Urine diverter - GBP 50 www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324879529268 th-cam.com/video/JCdCPFZxXWY/w-d-xo.html
I prefer not to spread them too far around the boat and lose more locker space but if we had any more that might be a place to put some. As it is I already installed the AC shore power inlet just above the clothes locker through the side deck to not clutter the cockpit in port with a cable. And a lightning ground wire runs through there from the shrouds to the ground plate in the bilge.
![ทุกครั้งที่หลับตา (Lucid Dream) - AYLA's [ Official MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4i1OBAQyv58/mqdefault.jpg)
That was a wonderful ending to the video. I always love seeing the end result of your craftsmanship.
Wow. I love these refits on so many levels.
Hello Mr. Baldwin, Happy to see you’ve replied to a comment about a week ago. I hope you’re doing will and I await your next video. Nothing like ‘em! Thanks for everything.
Thanks for the comment. I've slowed down on the video uploads and boat work as I'm semi-retired now but plan to upload something soon on the Sandpiper 32 I'm currently working on and some update on the Cape Dory 36 playlist as we experiment with extending the range of the electric propulsion with portable gas generator.
Very nice as expected. Thanks for sharing! Nice to see Brunswick in the background, where I'm watching it.
Just “WOW” great looking refitting. Nice sailing video too
Nice sailing boat.
Your work on "Ma Ha", as in all of your work, is amazing. I have loved being a student of AtomVoyager University over the years as I have learned so much from you. Thank you for posting your videos.
Congrats on another masterpiece
You always leave us wanting more! Thanks for sharing your amazing work!!
Very well done and meticulous workmanship.
Another Beautiful job. A masterful blend of old world beauty and modern technology for maximum sailing experience. Congratulations.
Great work! Nice boat.
Loved the cover of Zeppelin at the ending. I will have to check out Chiara Kilching.
Excellent video and tour of all the work you have done on this one. Nice to see the finished product. Loved the sailing at the end.
A Fantastic Accomplishment!
congrats, astonishing work
Very nice!
Nice job
Fantastic job as always James.
Amazing work! Thanks for sharing! Your an inspiration for me, one day I want to get a cape dory and refit her for sailing the Americas.
First class work as always. Truly beautiful!
Wow! Great work as always James.
James, a perfect Christmas gift and thank you for all that you do! Merry Christmas 🎁🎄
Nice! Love the outro music!
Very nice work!
Love the modified full kills.
Nice job, as always!
Rain song! nice
Another great job James
Merry Christmas
Beautiful
Excellent workmanship. That's a pocket yacht for sure. I would like to see a tour of the finished CD 30 as well.
Another impeccable job! I’m very tempted to replace my main with a battenless main when the time comes. If ever you to a Q&A, I’d love to hear your opinion on the subject.
Most sailors on modern boats with short booms will want a full batten main to maximize sail area. But on these older boats with long booms and prone to excess weather helm, I prefer to sacrifice some light air performance with a battenless main because it is much less expensive, is lighter, easier to reef and stow when removing it, reduces weather helm, does not hang up so easy under the spreaders when unreefing off the wind, reduces the need for lazy jacks since it is smaller, and gives you a wider window before needing to put in the first reef. I do maximize the sail area though by increasing the length of the foot to place the clew as close to the end of the boom as possible. I prefer to increase the furling genoa area to make up the lost sail area as well as use light air headsails such as an asymmetric or furling code 0.
@@atomvoyager Wow, thanks for the info! The only downsides that I've read about, that matter to us, were that they lose their shape sooner (especially along the leech) and they are harder to tidy up on the boom.
Luckily we have a few years still before we set of, so we will perform a roachectomy on our current main just to see how we like it before we have a new one made ;) Thanks again and happy holidays !!!
Ok, the breaker panel made up for the head 😂
I can tell right away that was not Jimmy Page but the player still nailed that tempo.
great tour, thank you! I'm curious if you would recommend the same ePropulsion electric outboard/custom well on a similar boat again?
did you also consider an inboard electric? seems likely to have better regen with an inboard, and one could use a gas inverter generator to extend motoring distance in a similar way to having the gas outboard here.
The two boats I have installed epropulsion outboards on are using them while cruising and they are functioning well at the moment but I did have some issues with with them. I had two bad displays that fogged up due to the factory not sealing the lens and had one bad battery. It was a hassle to get replacements under warranty but eventually we did. Also, some design features are not ideal so I am not sure I can recommend them at this point. These boat owners wanted an outboard well with gas or electric motor option. They did not want an inboard installation of either type. There are many pros and cons to that as I outlined in the following article link. If you want to discuss it further you can email me your number at atomvoyages.com and I can phone you. atomvoyages.com/improved-outboard-well/
Very nice refit done to a beautiful boat, congratulations! Just to mention, if it helps, that the turnbuckle of your anchor shouldn't be directly attached to the eye of the anchor, but should be as this: Anchor + Lyre galvanized shackle + 3 slabs of chain + turnbuckle + rest of chain. This way you will avoid any possible lateral traction of the chain to the anchor through the swivel, a force for which it isn't designed for and that can easily lead to a failure of the swivel. With the shackle + the 3 slabs , the force will never be perpendicular to the swivel as the whole rode can rotate and align itself to the pulling direction.
Merry christmas!
Thanks for that suggestion. To help the translation for others, I think he is saying to use a standard anchor shackle at the shank, then 3 links of chain, then the swivel, then the main part of chain to allow the whole assembly to articulate better without side loads on the swivel. This might happen during wind of current shift or if the anchor gets snagged on a coral head during retrieval. The reason we didn't initially add a shackle was because the swivel looks strong enough for this size boat with it's slightly oversized chain and a large shackle needed to fit this size anchor shank tends to hang up on the narrow roller. But with the right shackle and 3 links of chain this could be a better system.
@@atomvoyager hahaha, yes, that's the point. Thanks. Indeed, it's said in the Kong swivel installation instructions, not my own wisdom 😅
❤
I've been excited to watch this build, as I own hull #26, Is the aft locker and deck a fabbed modification? Interested to know the year and Hull number.
I don't recall the year and hull number but here's a video of how the outboard well was added to the lazarette locker:
th-cam.com/video/xde6yRTvO2M/w-d-xo.html
Noticed Swan is using the gas outboard. Have they given up on the electric outboard? Both projects look great
He hasn't given up on it. After sea trials with both motors he is temporarily using the gas motor with its extended range as he gets more experience sailing this boat with its relatively underpowered motors. Once he gets comfortable with the limitations of the gas motor and gets more proficient with making passages and coastal hops mostly under sail, he plans to then see how he does with the further limitations of slightly reduced thrust and greatly reduced range of the electric motor. I hope to interview him later after his Bahamas cruise for an update on this.
Lets gooooooo
What was your source for the port light gaskets? Excellent work by the way! Very clean, especially the breaker panel, very impressive!
Thanks. The portlight gasket is from McMaster-Carr - Ultra-Weather-Resistant EPDM Foam Cord, 1/2" Diameter #8605k44. I bought 100' for 16 portlights on two boats, but they sell 10' lengths as well: www.mcmaster.com/catalog/129/4032/8605K44
I wonder if one could do a lot better with custom prop matched to the boat. I also wonder about having an electric outboard with a 1 cylinder diesel generator under the cockpit..
Whatever compromises they made on the prop size I get the impression that they should offer a larger one for this purpose of pushing a heavy boat at 5-6 knots. The clients I have worked with want to avoid inboard diesel, even if a generator but yes some folks would go for that. Even though it does partly defeat the purpose of going electric there are some advantages to that if you really need the extra range. Another option for boats of this type would be to have an electric inboard and gas outboard in the lazarette well so that either could be used without the trouble of swapping them out. That gives you redundancy and extra range. But there are several downsides to that as well...
We'll done. Congrats! Been following this refit. We'll thought out. BTW Nearly all States have a 8'6" with limit. I have an Orion 27 with a 9'2" width so need to legally get permits everywhere. What was the solar arch from Tower installed on?
Thanks for the comment. The solar arch was on our escort boat that day, a Cape Dory 36. There is a separate video of that installation here: th-cam.com/video/WMSB0NBj6pE/w-d-xo.html
Hello Mr Baldwin, can you tell the brand of the swing arm, please?. Thx
The bracket is a discontinued unbranded model that is no longer available. The closest thing I've seen to it is a RAM mount that I've used on other boats: www.hodgesmarine.com/ramram-109vu-ram-mount-single-6-swing-arm-with-625-x-2-re.html
I've recently purchased a cd27 (first sailboat, so stoked) and at the top of my list is anchor handling equipment; how did you go about getting the sprit on this one level? I'm not currently sure how to go about accommodating the slight curve on the deck.
If you are referring to the bow roller, I shaped the wood block base under it for a level fit using an angle grinder with 36 grit pad. It doesn't have to be perfectly level, just eyeball it. Here's more details at 12 minutes in the following video: th-cam.com/video/fKoW1a4cgN4/w-d-xo.html
One of your alberg rebuilds is currently for sale. Its the one you did about 7 years ago. has the aluminum toe rail. You built an a integral holding tank. How difficult would it be to remove it?
Not very difficult. Partly fill with water and pump out then cut out the top for the size lid you want and install a lid. There's no baffle inside to trouble you.
@@atomvoyager Thank you sir.
👍
Hey,
I have a 50yr old 26ft boat and I would like to put my outboard in a well, its on the back atm.
I would like to put it in front of the rudder which means the well will be in about 15cm of water all the time. I am afraid it will cause quite a gushing of water in there when motoring and also resistance while motoring. What do you think?
I wouldn't build a submerged well where the motor is not easily tilted or lifted out of the water and a hull plug inserted to reduce turbulence and flooding. If the top of the well was say 40cm above the waterline and you were only sailing in protected waters such as a lake then you might get away with it. If you want to discuss it further you can contact me at atomvoyages.com and send photos of your transom, cockpit and dimensioned sketch of your plan.
Do you have a link for the urine diverter? Thanks.
There are several types available on ebay. I linked this one below and there's a complete parts list in my Dry Toilet video also linked below:
Urine diverter - GBP 50
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324879529268
th-cam.com/video/JCdCPFZxXWY/w-d-xo.html
Great job. Did you ever think of putting the electric components in the hanging Locker?
I prefer not to spread them too far around the boat and lose more locker space but if we had any more that might be a place to put some. As it is I already installed the AC shore power inlet just above the clothes locker through the side deck to not clutter the cockpit in port with a cable. And a lightning ground wire runs through there from the shrouds to the ground plate in the bilge.
Great modifications. You're using brains, instead of brawn.