This is why I like watching these videos. You pick up little stuff that you'd rarely think of yourself if you haven't been doing this for 40 years. That little catch tool he comes up with at 11:00 is stupidly simple but slick. I've been sticking a ball point pen in there, risking tearing my arm off, all while trying to complete the parting cut, when all this time I could've just used a little piece of rod in the tail stock drill chuck like this. That kind of knowledge is pure gold.
The process of rolling cold rolled steel leaves compressive stresses in the outer layers of material. When you cut the slot, those stresses closed up the slot. Nice project. Thanks, John
Hi I'm not a machinist(electrical fitter/engineer) from Scotland ,only about 100miles from doublboost. I found a tap like the one frozen in the adaptor you showed and always wondered why, now I know , it was in some of the tooling from my granddads workshop, Enjoy your SNS every week
Hey, I know nothing about this kind of work but it's been great to watch a true craftsman produce such a precision item. Thanks for a great video with an excellent presentation.
Adam, I just found your channel. All I can say is OUTSTANDING !! Your skill combined with your knowledge and ability to logically explain the projects is exemplary in every way. Thanks
I a man older machinest and tool and die maker i am retired now and disabled and reopening my small shop 'I am using bench mark horizontal 1930's and the vertical is a 1940's i pulled out of dirt in a friends back yard The old lathe is a 1940's also i pulled out of the dirt i am rebuilding them now having to rest a lot now i have been watching your vidoes and they have really help me with my project Thanks for shearing your knowledge
Hi big chap, watched SS Part 1 tonight in Helsinki Airport and Part 2 in Amsterdam Airport before flying home to Scotland. Great work Adam, you set you standards very high. Thanks for sharing. Kindest regards. Joe.
Adam if you want to loosen that up a bit use your torch and give the side away from the slit a bit of heat it will pull it back and give you clearance. Great project.
Anyone that can afford these tools and machines can buy a 3 dollar calculator and commit a couple of conversion factors to memory. It's not rocket science folks. 2.54 cm = 1 inch = 25.4 mm
@@WisdomVendor1 obv. Its not but a guy talking in Workshop English about imperial sices ...If you are not used to you dont have a feel for how much it is like non machinists usually dont have a feel for whats a 0.01mm I dont know how you like to watch Videos but i dont like to have to do conversations If u do u could watch movies in Mandarin and do a simple google translate Translation Well Imperial Sices are based on Metric Sices with a conversation faktor guess thats because imperial Guys like that so much
Adam points out that the shanks of taps are oddball sizes. While that's true for imperial taps, the majority of metric taps (especially HSS ground thread taps) have shanks from the same diameter series as the standard ISO thread diameters: 5, 6, 8, 10. 12, 16mm etc
Revisiting this old SNS, I take the liberty of saying:. This is your passion, your talent, your calling. You shine in all aspects. Make more videos, just like this one and 500k subscribers will be a reality soon.
This gives me some ideas for if you wanted to mount taps in a hand drill for field work. Sometimes you can't chuck stuff in a mill and tap wrenches aren't practical either. Putting your tap in a hand drill or on a socket to turn with an air ratchet is sometimes all you can make happen. Milling something with two flats in it like this might be the trick. Good video. Thanks Abom.
I like it, thank you to you and your mentor. Better ideas. I built a bunch of tap drivers with set screws to hold the square but the screws forever come loose. This is a far simpler and better idea. Usually simplest is best.
That is a really nice collet holder you are milling with. Cast Iron strength ! Ok when sawing a tree down one uses hard plastic wedges to keep the slot (tree) from squeezing you down and trapping your $1K saw until another saw saves it !
I am enjoying your channel, very interesting always. The camera work is impeccable, always perfect lighting and focus along with the volume. Thank you for your time and effort in explaining clearly, what you are doing, for us novices. My Father was a machinist, back in the '30 ies, and I now can really appreciate what he did. P.S. Nice shop you have there.
You need an SPV tapping tool like what I have to tap on the K&T. Probably be handy on the Kearns as well. I love not having to worry about turning too hard and braking a tap. Those drivers sure look handy for when you don't have one!
We made a set of similar adapters for various valve stems in our Navy valve rebuild shop for a drill motor driven globe valve lapping setup... talking about production, an aircraft carrier has a lot of valves to work during a shipyard maintenance availability. Fond memories, thanks for the share!
Thank you for your videos! I know absolutely nothing about machining but I’ve always found it fascinating! I’ve been thoroughly enjoying your videos and I’ve enjoyed learning from you!
I enjoy your videos and definitely hope you have an apprentice to pass your knowledge on too. Sadly, skilled Craftsmen/Tradesmen are a dying breed. I'm 51, work in a steel mill and can tell you, in just the past 20 years I've seen a horrible decline in tradesmen who take pride in their work or have the ingenuity to "make it work".
This is a very cool idea, and one that I shall certainly be using. Four years later you now have that tapping arm, but that's going to work in all situations. I always worry about power tapping, and wonder what would be a ball park tap size to be safely strong enough. Much as I hate abusing a chuck by holding a tap, that does at least give a sort of safety margin by slipping when the torque reaches a certain level. That is not going to happen with a collet driving a positive grip on the tap. I'm going to try using this method on 6mm and upwards, but I have a feeling I'll start out going just a tiny bit over on the tapping size. Say 5.1mm or 5.2mm for harder stock. BTW, I did two years at Ford UK's Apprentice Training school (starting in 1967), but I learned so much more from the older guy I shared a bench with, when I got to the big boy's work shops. Cool tricks and tips just like in this video, that helped in real world situations. You have to do the work to _really_ learn how to become good at it. Instructors who came straight from college just don't cut it.
Good comment, I know what you mean about taps slipping an observation I made about this design tho is although the adapter is mechanically driving on the flats of the tap the adapter itself is still round in the o.d. and driven in a round collet. This is in no way a criticism it’s an observation I assume the greater surface area and larger collet allow more torque to be transmitted 🤔 👍🏻
Hey Buddy, I was feeling for you on that slitting saw when I saw the steam. Great little project for power driving those bigger taps. All the best, Tom
oxtoolco Tom, you know like me sometimes those saws can be a pita...😣 When they work right they do a good job. I finally prevailed off camera. Might have been the language.
You can't blame the slitting saw if the pre-stressed material closes on the tool, given the chance. Can't avoid that with the material, though, can you?
Steam is not the same as water vapour. Steam is a gas; water vapour is a liquid, *and* a gas, in equilibrium with each other. It's badly explained on many websites, but this is quite a good explanation: www.differencebetween.info/difference-between-gas-and-vapor
I used to attend the Moultrie Swap Meet every November. Huge event! Took 20 hours to get there from PA but well worth it. I worked for Pypes Exhaust, an exhaust manufacturer. We had a huge black NASCAR style tractor trailer that we would set up. I don't remember the location because that airfield is huge !You can find Everything and anything there.
This is one of my favorite. just the thinking out side the box instead of trying to drill a square hole you just cut a grove with a hole the size if the square part of the tap. it is awesome.
Adam, thanks, you made my day with the description of the adjustable spanner as "all Sixteenths", love it, never heard that before, cheers from Scotland, Spud
31:21 "Like it was made for it!" made me laugh so hard. We had a machinist at one of the railroads that I worked at (a half a lifetime ago) that would exclaim, "Like it grew there!!!" Good times in that shop. Great times. Anyway, yet another excellent video, that I just caught up on, Adam. I need to go snag me one of those snazzy pocket tees of yours before it's too late. It's the least I can do to thank you for such great content and many smiles.
sticking the catch rod in the tailstock chuck is brilliant!! no idea how I never thought of that.... Always seemed to require 3 hands to do parting.... one feeding (or ready to disengage power feed if something goes wrong) one applying coolant (no flood on the lathe here) and one with the catch rod. I've usually just stopped with coolant almost all the way through and picked up the rod then. And I must say those indexable parting tools are great! I actually enjoy parting when using the seko or Sandvik with a fresh insert, even parting stainless
Abom79 it's a great idea. I can't believe I've never tried it. I've got piles of brass round from 3/32-2". I've got more parting to do today, I'll give it a shot!
I make them to drive in but I let them collar have a bit of play so it will pill past the square drive then you don't have to worry about breaking the tap , it allows for use in a drill press with no reverse.. I had an old mentor too Alex the Scot man. He was a real old time machinist. Real super if he liked YA you were in . YUPP he liked me shared a lot of Kool tricks. Loved just hearing him talk.
Very cool and helpful video. I just picked up an old Logan lathe and started to play around with it a little. No real use for it....but you never know when ya need it!
I have been looking for a simple, changable tap driver for some time now. THANKS! I plan to try to make a home shop friendly version of a tapping head and this is the first piece. It looks like a 3/4" OD will work for #4 up to perhaps 3/4" taps or perhaps a bit smaller on the large end. I also hope to add a die holder with the same 3/4" OD shank so it can be used for external threads too. I ordered a couple of 1.5" bolts to provide the stock for the die holders. Thanks again!
Hey Partner, I just picked myself up a Bridgeport and am looking forward to testing it out for trueness and travel. I was lucky in getting a very nice set of collets along with the deal. Who knows maybe I might show a couple little jobs I have to do right soon. I also enjoyed that tour you had in Witchita of all that collection of various machinery from days gone by. Some of which I grew up with. Thanks for your great video as usual. I don't possess your knowledge but can make what I need. You take care in these covid times. By for now.
Okay Adam, here's your chuckle for the day. I'm in Thailand. That translates as 'outlet for cheap crap junk too crappy to justify the cost of shipping overseas'. I needed to tap one hole. ONE!!! So I toddle off to the local hardware store. A set of 6 metric taps for only seven dollars. Wishful thinking I was hoping the entire set might be able to tap one hole. Odds are, right? The hole to be tapped is spring steel. First tap untapped it's cutting edges, turning into an odd looking rod. Second tap is now shaped like a corkscrew. Obviously they are made of poor quality unhardened mild steel. The remaining 4 now reside in my collection of Pure Crap beside a set of drill bits I can bend with my fingers. The heck with tapping the hole. I pounded in an undersized screw coated with epoxy putty. Thanks to the epoxy it is water tight. Nothing beats a claw hammer for doing a little precision repair work, right? I'll save the rest of the taps and drill bits just in case I have to drill and tap some PVC pipe.
Ryan James That's just sad man. It's really upsetting to see people actually wasting there time and resources to profuse junk tools that don't work, And waste the consumers time and money for buying them and using them.
How about the method I used for finding a real mechanic here? I went to garage after garage inspecting. Claw hammer in the tool box and the floor is the workbench and I'd go on. It took me NINE YEARS to find a decent mechanic to work on my Jeep CJ3. Nine years to find a mechanic to fix a vehicle specifically made to be fixed by your average GI assigned to the motor pool. Your videos are great! Keep them coming!!
Hello Adam, Man that was one hellaceous feed! I would have brought a sleeping bag for next day's leftovers! Thanks again for some wonderful videos. Always one of the highlights of Saturday night for me. Take care. Doug
power tapping scares the crap out of me so I try to avoid doing it,but there's so much really good information in this video it would be wise for anyone to watch.heard about this guy from a bunch of folk but my first time seeing him...gonna be paying attention now!
This came at a very handy time for me. I acquired a nice Tapmatic head but it came with no collets, (it uses a quick change type). I'm pretty sure I can make a set that will work for me. Thanks!
Wow. What timing. After watching one of Tom Lipton's videos where he talked about tap drivers (or at least problems driving big ones), I decided to make my own. Finished it two days ago, and I then killed all of the threads on my drawbar (coincidence, not due to overtightening to keep the driver from slipping.) Yours looks a lot simpler Mr. Booth, but I can't believe we both made a tap driver around the same time. A short video of mine should have just posted to my channel, it's an r8 design that uses bushings and allens to hold onto the square.
Great job . Im sure most know that the tap you used for the vid is called a " gun tap " . Its cool to see one work . It is ground to shoot the fillings out the hole in front of the tap .
Why the hell didnt I think of that ? Struggle with tap holding and driving many times on projects that need to be extremely accurate ... Great idea ..Thanks for help !
ROBERT HORNER the old lathes weren't designed to run as high rippems as the newer gen lathes. Max rpm on the monarch is 700, same speed I was running the Victor.
Nice video! When I split bushings I like to put them in the middle of the vice and split them with an endmill. Usually much less trouble than the slitting saws. And usually the width of the slit doesn't matter.
A useful addition to the set of tap drivers would be a set of adapters with the same size outer diameter to hold the appropriate tap drill. It would be easy to grind flats on the drill shanks to grip in exactly the same way. That would make it easy to swap tools to do multiple operations at the same location. A set of adapters to hold a spotting drill (one for each outer adapter diameter) would complete the set.
If the cutter was binding because of spring action in the tap driver, maybe a filler in the bore hole. You could use a piece of hot roll or even some oak. Just a thought.
Adam, that is really neat and useful. I have the luxury of climb milling as my little CNC has ball screws and R8 spindle/quill. First job on my DIY EDM attachment will be making neat slots.
This is why I like watching these videos. You pick up little stuff that you'd rarely think of yourself if you haven't been doing this for 40 years. That little catch tool he comes up with at 11:00 is stupidly simple but slick. I've been sticking a ball point pen in there, risking tearing my arm off, all while trying to complete the parting cut, when all this time I could've just used a little piece of rod in the tail stock drill chuck like this. That kind of knowledge is pure gold.
The process of rolling cold rolled steel leaves compressive stresses in the outer layers of material. When you cut the slot, those stresses closed up the slot.
Nice project.
Thanks,
John
Still didn't expect that from stressproof material
Hi I'm not a machinist(electrical fitter/engineer) from Scotland ,only about 100miles from doublboost. I found a tap like the one frozen in the adaptor you showed and always wondered why, now I know , it was in some of the tooling from my granddads workshop, Enjoy your SNS every week
Cool! Now you know ho to put it to use!
Adam, you are a great machinist/ welder and steel fabricator. God bless you sir.
Seems like those darn bushings ALWAYS want to spring on you. Makes slitting a challenging job. Fried slit saws! YUM YUM
I am not a machinist but your videos are so clear and easy to understand I feel like machining something right now. Nice videos!
Hey, I know nothing about this kind of work but it's been great to watch a true craftsman produce such a precision item. Thanks for a great video with an excellent presentation.
Million miles away from the flex arm - love the early sns work
I really enjoyed your comment about not needing another loosening relation. You deserve the best. Merry Christmas!
Yea Don't want to see too mess ups like that!
Adam, I just found your channel. All I can say is OUTSTANDING !! Your skill combined with your knowledge and ability to logically explain the projects is exemplary in every way. Thanks
I a man older machinest and tool and die maker
i am retired now and disabled and reopening my small shop
'I am using bench mark horizontal 1930's and the vertical is a 1940's i pulled out of dirt in a friends back yard The old lathe is a 1940's also i pulled out of the dirt
i am rebuilding them now
having to rest a lot now i have been watching your vidoes and they have really help me with my project
Thanks for shearing your knowledge
I like that , Great Project .. Holds the tap firm and straight ! Thumbs up man ..
I'v seen other machinists this good...but they were 65 years old. This guy is sharp!!
Hi big chap, watched SS Part 1 tonight in Helsinki Airport and Part 2 in Amsterdam Airport before flying home to Scotland. Great work Adam, you set you standards very high. Thanks for sharing. Kindest regards. Joe.
Glad to have helped your layovers more enjoyable!
very informative video Adom,great video.thank you for sharing with us older retired guys.
Adam if you want to loosen that up a bit use your torch and give the side away from the slit a bit of heat it will pull it back and give you clearance.
Great project.
Yep I need to give that a shot. Thanks
Very cool little tool project for the shop Adam.
Thanks Adam, nice little bit of shop wisdom there. Nice to see you getting together with family, cheers!
Thanx for giving metric sizes, it really help use guys that don't use imperial every day.
Anyone that can afford these tools and machines can buy a 3 dollar calculator and commit a couple of conversion factors to memory. It's not rocket science folks. 2.54 cm = 1 inch = 25.4 mm
@@SWhite-hp5xq You mean the most industrious country to ever exist on this planet in the last 300 years?
WisdomVendor1... thank you for strengthening my point 😂
@@WisdomVendor1 obv. Its not but a guy talking in Workshop English about imperial sices ...If you are not used to you dont have a feel for how much it is like non machinists usually dont have a feel for whats a 0.01mm
I dont know how you like to watch Videos but i dont like to have to do conversations
If u do u could watch movies in Mandarin and do a simple google translate Translation
Well Imperial Sices are based on Metric Sices with a conversation faktor guess thats because imperial Guys like that so much
Adam points out that the shanks of taps are oddball sizes. While that's true for imperial taps, the majority of metric taps (especially HSS ground thread taps) have shanks from the same diameter series as the standard ISO thread diameters: 5, 6, 8, 10. 12, 16mm etc
Revisiting this old SNS, I take the liberty of saying:. This is your passion, your talent, your calling.
You shine in all aspects. Make more videos, just like this one and 500k subscribers will be a reality soon.
This gives me some ideas for if you wanted to mount taps in a hand drill for field work. Sometimes you can't chuck stuff in a mill and tap wrenches aren't practical either. Putting your tap in a hand drill or on a socket to turn with an air ratchet is sometimes all you can make happen. Milling something with two flats in it like this might be the trick. Good video. Thanks Abom.
I like it, thank you to you and your mentor. Better ideas.
I built a bunch of tap drivers with set screws to hold the square but the screws forever come loose.
This is a far simpler and better idea.
Usually simplest is best.
Cutting the slot to drive the square was an idea that never occurred to me.... thanks
Good lighting, great Audio, wonderful camera angles, Clear and concise, lots of Chips. You nailed it! I'll be making these for my Tree Mill.
Thanks David!
I love true manual machining! You are a shadow of your old self. Great work.
You truly are a skilled machinist. I really enjoy your videos & how detailed they are.
Thanks...
I love your all 16ths wrench. Never heard it like that before. Will be using it... All. The. Time.
Very nice Adam. I really like that tap holder and I like the small project videos. Thank you.
Very slick job on a good idea. The two camera set up worked nice. It would be great on some projects to switch from side to side.....Dave
That is a really nice collet holder you are milling with. Cast Iron strength ! Ok when sawing a tree down one uses hard plastic wedges to keep the slot (tree) from squeezing you down and trapping your $1K saw until another saw saves it !
I am enjoying your channel, very interesting always. The camera work is impeccable, always perfect lighting and focus along with the volume. Thank you for your time and effort in explaining clearly, what you are doing, for us novices. My Father was a machinist, back in the '30 ies, and I now can really appreciate what he did. P.S. Nice shop you have there.
You need an SPV tapping tool like what I have to tap on the K&T. Probably be handy on the Kearns as well. I love not having to worry about turning too hard and braking a tap. Those drivers sure look handy for when you don't have one!
Very nice design. Simple. Effective. Two thumbs up!
That style of tap driver also gives you the maximum possible headroom between tap and table.
For sure Bob, great for gaining room in the work area.
Good useful project there Adam, thanks.
We made a set of similar adapters for various valve stems in our Navy valve rebuild shop for a drill motor driven globe valve lapping setup... talking about production, an aircraft carrier has a lot of valves to work during a shipyard maintenance availability. Fond memories, thanks for the share!
Great to go back and visit bud. These are a great idea !
Awesome tool. That Sonny must have been one smart dude.
Thank you for your videos! I know absolutely nothing about machining but I’ve always found it fascinating! I’ve been thoroughly enjoying your videos and I’ve enjoyed learning from you!
Super tap holder Adam - very much enjoyed that. Gonna have to make me some.
Great video again as always! Thanks!
Thanks Mark!
Right on time Adam.I was just drawing a blank in the shop.Going out there now to make a couple of these.
I enjoy your videos and definitely hope you have an apprentice to pass your knowledge on too. Sadly, skilled Craftsmen/Tradesmen are a dying breed. I'm 51, work in a steel mill and can tell you, in just the past 20 years I've seen a horrible decline in tradesmen who take pride in their work or have the ingenuity to "make it work".
I sure love that milling machine. Sounds like a rock.
now thats an awesome pro tip!! many times the drill chuck causes height probs. Thanks Adam!!
Neat project. I don't power tap all that often because of the chuck issue. Now I know a better way. Thanks!
This is a very cool idea, and one that I shall certainly be using. Four years later you now have that tapping arm, but that's going to work in all situations. I always worry about power tapping, and wonder what would be a ball park tap size to be safely strong enough. Much as I hate abusing a chuck by holding a tap, that does at least give a sort of safety margin by slipping when the torque reaches a certain level. That is not going to happen with a collet driving a positive grip on the tap. I'm going to try using this method on 6mm and upwards, but I have a feeling I'll start out going just a tiny bit over on the tapping size. Say 5.1mm or 5.2mm for harder stock.
BTW, I did two years at Ford UK's Apprentice Training school (starting in 1967), but I learned so much more from the older guy I shared a bench with, when I got to the big boy's work shops. Cool tricks and tips just like in this video, that helped in real world situations. You have to do the work to _really_ learn how to become good at it. Instructors who came straight from college just don't cut it.
Good comment, I know what you mean about taps slipping an observation I made about this design tho is although the adapter is mechanically driving on the flats of the tap the adapter itself is still round in the o.d. and driven in a round collet.
This is in no way a criticism it’s an observation I assume the greater surface area and larger collet allow more torque to be transmitted 🤔 👍🏻
Hey Buddy,
I was feeling for you on that slitting saw when I saw the steam. Great little project for power driving those bigger taps.
All the best,
Tom
oxtoolco Tom, you know like me sometimes those saws can be a pita...😣 When they work right they do a good job. I finally prevailed off camera. Might have been the language.
You are very unique if you can see steam ! I only saw water vapor. Just funning with you, I know you like to throw in zingers at times.
Steam and water vapor are the same things. We all saw a cloud of water droplets there. The "steam" had condensed in your cool shop! :-)
You can't blame the slitting saw if the pre-stressed material closes on the tool, given the chance. Can't avoid that with the material, though, can you?
Steam is not the same as water vapour.
Steam is a gas; water vapour is a liquid, *and* a gas, in equilibrium with each other.
It's badly explained on many websites, but this is quite a good explanation:
www.differencebetween.info/difference-between-gas-and-vapor
A great big thank you for sharing this knowledge. I made one for holding a 5/8" gun tap and just finished tapping 4 holes using my mill drill.
Awesome video..... This gives me a chance for another project in my shop. 👍
Nice job Adam, will have to make some of those for the shop. New camera angles look good.
Thanks Bill!
I used to attend the Moultrie Swap Meet every November. Huge event! Took 20 hours to get there from PA but well worth it. I worked for Pypes Exhaust, an exhaust manufacturer. We had a huge black NASCAR style tractor trailer that we would set up. I don't remember the location because that airfield is huge !You can find Everything and anything there.
That’s awesome. Your knowledge and skill is just amazing.
Neat Tool! Simple, effective and easy! Narrow slits in any metal can be ugly.
one to keep in mind again. it is getting a lot. thanks, Adam. Cheers.
This is one of my favorite. just the thinking out side the box instead of trying to drill a square hole you just cut a grove with a hole the size if the square part of the tap. it is awesome.
I liked how you held the boring bar, i will be using that one.
Beautiful! I'm gonna try to make an adapter like this to run annular cutters both in the mill and lathe. Merry Christmas and Thanks Adam!
Good idea Tom!
Adam, thanks, you made my day with the description of the adjustable spanner as "all Sixteenths", love it, never heard that before, cheers from Scotland, Spud
I was reaching for the hacksaw when you finally managed it. Another SNS fix for my addiction, thanks Adam.
31:21 "Like it was made for it!" made me laugh so hard. We had a machinist at one of the railroads that I worked at (a half a lifetime ago) that would exclaim, "Like it grew there!!!" Good times in that shop. Great times. Anyway, yet another excellent video, that I just caught up on, Adam. I need to go snag me one of those snazzy pocket tees of yours before it's too late. It's the least I can do to thank you for such great content and many smiles.
Shirts will be for sale for a few more days, so be sure to pick one up. Other wise I have my older designs on my storefront.
sticking the catch rod in the tailstock chuck is brilliant!! no idea how I never thought of that.... Always seemed to require 3 hands to do parting.... one feeding (or ready to disengage power feed if something goes wrong) one applying coolant (no flood on the lathe here) and one with the catch rod. I've usually just stopped with coolant almost all the way through and picked up the rod then.
And I must say those indexable parting tools are great! I actually enjoy parting when using the seko or Sandvik with a fresh insert, even parting stainless
Very easy trick, I like to use brass rods too. Have a wooden broom handle for the larger parts you have to catch.
Abom79 it's a great idea. I can't believe I've never tried it. I've got piles of brass round from 3/32-2". I've got more parting to do today, I'll give it a shot!
I make them to drive in but I let them collar have a bit of play so it will pill past the square drive then you don't have to worry about breaking the tap , it allows for use in a drill press with no reverse.. I had an old mentor too Alex the Scot man. He was a real old time machinist. Real super if he liked YA you were in . YUPP he liked me shared a lot of Kool tricks. Loved just hearing him talk.
Always very satisfying to make your own tools!
Very cool and helpful video. I just picked up an old Logan lathe and started to play around with it a little. No real use for it....but you never know when ya need it!
That's another little project for me to do. I could have used one of those today. Thanks for the TIP.
Cool project Adam. You made a useful tool.
I have been looking for a simple, changable tap driver for some time now. THANKS! I plan to try to make a home shop friendly version of a tapping head and this is the first piece. It looks like a 3/4" OD will work for #4 up to perhaps 3/4" taps or perhaps a bit smaller on the large end. I also hope to add a die holder with the same 3/4" OD shank so it can be used for external threads too. I ordered a couple of 1.5" bolts to provide the stock for the die holders.
Thanks again!
Hey Partner, I just picked myself up a Bridgeport and am looking forward to testing it out for trueness and travel. I was lucky in getting a very nice set of collets along with the deal. Who knows maybe I might show a couple little jobs I have to do right soon. I also enjoyed that tour you had in Witchita of all that collection of various machinery from days gone by. Some of which I grew up with. Thanks for your great video as usual. I don't possess your knowledge but can make what I need. You take care in these covid times. By for now.
Okay Adam, here's your chuckle for the day.
I'm in Thailand. That translates as 'outlet for cheap crap junk too crappy to justify the cost of shipping overseas'.
I needed to tap one hole. ONE!!! So I toddle off to the local hardware store. A set of 6 metric taps for only seven dollars. Wishful thinking I was hoping the entire set might be able to tap one hole. Odds are, right?
The hole to be tapped is spring steel. First tap untapped it's cutting edges, turning into an odd looking rod. Second tap is now shaped like a corkscrew. Obviously they are made of poor quality unhardened mild steel. The remaining 4 now reside in my collection of Pure Crap beside a set of drill bits I can bend with my fingers.
The heck with tapping the hole. I pounded in an undersized screw coated with epoxy putty. Thanks to the epoxy it is water tight.
Nothing beats a claw hammer for doing a little precision repair work, right? I'll save the rest of the taps and drill bits just in case I have to drill and tap some PVC pipe.
Ryan James That's just sad man. It's really upsetting to see people actually wasting there time and resources to profuse junk tools that don't work, And waste the consumers time and money for buying them and using them.
How about the method I used for finding a real mechanic here? I went to garage after garage inspecting. Claw hammer in the tool box and the floor is the workbench and I'd go on. It took me NINE YEARS to find a decent mechanic to work on my Jeep CJ3. Nine years to find a mechanic to fix a vehicle specifically made to be fixed by your average GI assigned to the motor pool.
Your videos are great! Keep them coming!!
Hi.
Nice video again and what a great idea. Thanks for sharing.
Best regards; Zmago - SC Patent
A nifty project. Thanks for sharing.
Have a good one!
Dave
Hello Adam, Man that was one hellaceous feed! I would have brought a sleeping bag for next day's leftovers! Thanks again for some wonderful videos. Always one of the highlights of Saturday night for me. Take care. Doug
Hi Adam. Do the "joe pie" shim , drill, and bore collet thing. Great tootling build. Thanks for sharing.
power tapping scares the crap out of me so I try to avoid doing it,but there's so much really good information in this video it would be wise for anyone to watch.heard about this guy from a bunch of folk but my first time seeing him...gonna be paying attention now!
Welcome to the channel! I have many other videos to watch with a ton of mixed content.
Awesome project & video! Thought I was the only one who has problems with taps slipping in a chuck.... Merry Christmas!
Cool Idea, most of the taps I use are tiny, but if the need comes around I will make a few of them.
Thanks for this project Adam. Very good information.
Nice work there, great and simple idea for a common problem.
This came at a very handy time for me. I acquired a nice Tapmatic head but it came with no collets, (it uses a quick change type). I'm pretty sure I can make a set that will work for me.
Thanks!
Jack Hoying That's great Jack!
Wow. What timing. After watching one of Tom Lipton's videos where he talked about tap drivers (or at least problems driving big ones), I decided to make my own. Finished it two days ago, and I then killed all of the threads on my drawbar (coincidence, not due to overtightening to keep the driver from slipping.) Yours looks a lot simpler Mr. Booth, but I can't believe we both made a tap driver around the same time. A short video of mine should have just posted to my channel, it's an r8 design that uses bushings and allens to hold onto the square.
I have some that I made to fit in an endmill holder also
Shop made tools are sometimes the best kind.
The suspense with the slitting saw nearly killed me 😅 Great work as always.
Another excellent video Adam,well done...👍👍👍
Great job . Im sure most know that the tap you used for the vid is called a " gun tap " . Its cool to see one work . It is ground to shoot the fillings out the hole in front of the tap .
Another great video Adam, easy to follow commentary but always interesting stuff. keep it up
Why the hell didnt I think of that ? Struggle with tap holding and driving many times on projects that need to be extremely accurate ... Great idea ..Thanks for help !
I love these simple shop made tools, Merry Christmas Adam
Thanks Kelly!
Audio is sounding rock solid. Dunno if you did anything for it but if you did, it worked. :)
+Music Bro Thanks man! The secret is using the two cameras, and use the audio from the Rode mic. 👍🏻
YOU HAVE A BEAUTIFUL FAMILY. THANKS FOR THE VIDEO.
ROBERT HORNER the old lathes weren't designed to run as high rippems as the newer gen lathes. Max rpm on the monarch is 700, same speed I was running the Victor.
ROBERT HORNER Sorry, response was for Jerry.
Nice camera shot can see great very slick
Nice video!
When I split bushings I like to put them in the middle of the vice and split them with an endmill. Usually much less trouble than the slitting saws. And usually the width of the slit doesn't matter.
For sure works good but that would be a small endmill, which i don't like using very much
A useful addition to the set of tap drivers would be a set of adapters with the same size outer diameter to hold the appropriate tap drill. It would be easy to grind flats on the drill shanks to grip in exactly the same way. That would make it easy to swap tools to do multiple operations at the same location. A set of adapters to hold a spotting drill (one for each outer adapter diameter) would complete the set.
That would nice a nice handy set there Peter
Wow great video and idea. Gotta make me a few of these.
I really enjoy watching all your videos
Much better than using a chuck to hold the tap.
John Hartford - Steam powered aero plane
My boys love watching your videos. Keep up the awesome videos.
I am 49 years old, been in the trades since my teens, and I have never heard "all sixteenths wrench" in my life lol
I've always called them nut rounders
@@biggreenblob LOL That's funny.
@@biggreenblob "mexicans toolbox" "Swedish Nut Fuckers"
No disrespect intended
Also known as an Arkansas socket set.
Nice Project Adam, Thanks for the tips.
Gary 73-year-Old Home Shop Machinist in N.W. Arkansas where it is COLD and Snowing
Gary Jones Still kind of warm and sunny in Florida 😀
If the cutter was binding because of spring action in the tap driver, maybe a filler in the bore hole. You could use a piece of hot roll or even some oak. Just a thought.
Adam, that is really neat and useful.
I have the luxury of climb milling as my little CNC has ball screws and R8 spindle/quill.
First job on my DIY EDM attachment will be making neat slots.