I just want to say , I am 30 year female , who is NOT in any way a mechanic and I studied this video for two days and successfully replaced my cylinder and attached the old key lock switch and the back sensor….I’ve been doing the George Jefferson all day! I never comment on videos even if I am successful but I felt so compelled to leave this much worthy praise ! Thank you so much ! This saved me 1200 dollars !
@@Amy_Moss2021 I helped my son do this about a month ago and the hardest part was getting the tool to get any angle so it can turn the bolt. Be patient. At first I was skeptical that it would really work for us. Short hard taps with a hammer and a punch should create a bit of bite in the bolt head. Once you get it to move even a little, it goes pretty quick from there. It only moves very little at a time so I had to keep resetting and tapping a new bite into the bolt head each time. But it does work. Good luck
I just drill the shit out of it. I used a normal drill. I cut the bit so the drill can fit between the plastic and the bolt. I kept going up 3 times on sizes and the last bit spun the bolt head off.
Hey ! First of all I want to thank you for both your videos about this issue. I just fixed my car 5 minutes ago, it’s finally run!!! Spent around 4 hours yesterday to take apart everything inluding steering wheel and lock, if you guys struggle , it is how it’s supposed to be , so just keep trying, I was about to give up a couple of times but this Tech’s success made me keep trying ! Just listen and pay attention to every detail this man said , or you will struggle like me. Few tips. 1. Get different picks ! 2. If you can’t achieve success in removing cylinder lock out of housing - USE DIFFERENT SMALL needles , picks , everything that you can find and try, I pulled it out only after 4th pick that I tried. If it doesn’t come out - then pick is not in the place , it should come out easily! Thank you so much good man ! Shout out from BMW of Dallas trainee tech 🎉
I'd thought I'd throw my two cents in. I tackled this job on my 85 year old mothers '14 jetta before the key got stuck in the lock. Didn't need that scenario. Anyway, I tried the punch and hammer method for about half an hour before I gave up and grabbed my right angle drill and ez out and had them both out in a quarter hour. So if anyone else is having trouble with the punch method, the drill is a sure thing. Besides that, the job was a breeze, thanks to your video. It was a great help and your instructions were spot on. Sometimes people who make these types of videos are really hard to listen to. Thanks again Brother, you made this job easy with no drama. 👍👍
I’m not the sharpest tool but this video was an amazing guide. Thank you so much this video saved me a $750 and gave me some DIY points. A tip for anyone that is having trouble with the tamper proof bolts use a Dremel and get a diamond tip and fit it through the space.
Wow this video saved me a bunch of money thought I'd have to go to the dealership to get a new keyed for the anti theft but didn't. You are a lifesaver my friend I did this project in about 6 hours.
Thanks a LOT! This saved me around 800$ and only took 1.5 hours in total. Especially thanks for showing the repair without the need for removal of the airbag and steering wheeI. Much appreciated!
Great videos! I'm currently having the same problems with my 2012 Jetta Sportwagen. I have a new assembly ordered which should be here this afternoon. I've got the column covers off and hopefully tomorrow it will be a bit warmer (unheated garage) and I'll get those so call security bolts out and remove the assembly. Thanks for these videos.
GREAT video, I watched 6 or 7 other videos before finding yours. I was ready to go out and buy an angle drill and set of easy outs expecting to fully dismantle the steering wheel, air bag, steering column, etc just to be able to drill out the bolts, until I watched your video. What seemed like an all day job just to get to the retaining bolts took me 90 mins, and removing the bolts with the dot punch, 5 mins, and thats with a claw hammer not even a half size brass mallet. Thank you so much, and yes, you are right, the hardest part was finding the clip that held the barrel in place. I would imagine that it also saved a small fortune. Thank you so much.
Thank you! Your video is extremely helpful. I had one mechanic tell me they couldn't repair so I am attempting to repair on my own. Fingers Crossed! :)
Thanks man! Between this and another video I was able to do it with no prior car repairing experience. Hardest part for me was getting the key to move just enough so those 2 dots align, so I banged on that metal thing again and again and drilled that hole, sprayed dw40 inside the hole... this process took me about 2 hours but no matter, now it's fixed and everything is put back together. Thanks again!
Awesome video(s) on this replacement! I did mine today, and it took me less than two hours of working time (I did have to go back to VW to swap the lock housing, because they originally gave me the wrong version of it, but I'm not counting that in the time it took). Not an "easy" job, but easier than I expected it to be. Taking pictures of where the wires go as I went, and referring to the video made all the difference. (Also make sure you have all the tools you'll need before you start). Things I learned along the way: -Getting the security bolts out was easier than I expected; maybe mine were not cranked in too tight? -Make sure the T25 bolts are all the way tight on the sides of the wheel before trying to clip the plastic back into place, or else things won't line up right. Thanks again!
Thanks for the tutorial! My dealership wanted $250 to diagnose the issue (even though they already knew what it was) and possibly $1,500-$2,300 to fix it. I did it in an afternoon and only spent $110 for the new ignition switch.
I'm an automotive locksmith and what we do is take a die grinder and grind a slot in those bolts after they are out and use a flathead screwdriver to reinstall them.
@@deamonmachine A lot of times as a locksmith we aren't repairing these or any others that use shearhead bolts. They might need a rekey or we repair them as in they have bent and or worn wafers. We do our thing and reinstall. If we need a new unit which is rare for us than we use the new shearhead bolts. Being mobile we don't carry a bolt and screw supply cabinet with us so slotting them is quick an easy for us and yes a bit messy. I haven't done this myself but people have drilled out the side cap removed the spring and the pin reinstalled without it and supposedly it never locked up again. I'm sure those parts have a function with the steering lock but you would know more about this than me.
@@scotts4125 I drilled out and removed the guts of mine because I didn't want to buy a ~$200 housing when I really don't care. It just locks the steering wheel.
@@deamonmachine Once doing that does it lock at all? Taking that broken piece out is the cause so to me it's a fix. The real theft deterrent is the key any way at least to me. The steering lock has been kept from before the transponder days. We have had cars that were locked and we needed the wheel to turn. Many times a few blows with a rubber mallet or open palm to the steering wheel while turning the wheel at the same time would release the lock but I didn't tell you that. :)
A trick to removing the two shear bolts is glueing a longer bolt, with a nut on the end, to the top of each bolt with some JB Weld. Left it overnight and the next day I could easily unscrew them with a wrench.
@@kaap93 i found that using strong magnets balacing on top of the screws has turned out to be the way to have the screws balaced perfectly against gravity, like i slammed my doors 20 times and they are not falling over and are perfectly centered on the antitheft bolts even with the steering wheel at an sloping angle from gravity.... i just made a short about it 🙂
Didn't think that punch and hammer would get the security bolts out but it really works. Great video. Otherwise, you skipped over how the end piece comes out between 8:59 when its, in and 9:07 whens its out. Trying to figure that out so I don't break something.
I noticed that you tested whether the key works in the new ignition housing without being installed on the car. I recall other videos mentioning to not spin the ignition lock unless it is installed on the car, as it could permanently damage the mechanism. What do we need to be aware of? Thanks a ton!
Great video! Does the key have to be turned fully in the ignition before removing the ignition from the old housing (the part where you drilled the old housing)
Only to the "on" position, you don't have to fight the spring pushing the key back the whole time. So just click it forward as far as it goes and let go, and that's the position that the lock cylinder release lever can be accessed at.
Great video, this is on my to do list. My beetle key won't turn in the ignition. I bought the ignition switch but I believe its more this problem.I have dash lights, and all the things but the key won't turn even with jiggling. Did you get the new assembly from the dealer?
Amazing video. On the first video (How To Remove and Fix the Ignition Switch in 2012 VW Jetta DIY), you disconnected the speed shifter and moved the car out of park position. Why is that necessary? I don't see this being mentioned/required in this second video.
I watched your video and changed it in no time. Your vide was super informative. Unfortunately i didnt realize that the the immobilizer harness wasn’t fully plugged in. The car started and dies with a NO KEY DETECTED. I looked over it and found the mistake. I then fully seated the plug and tried it again and now the car starts and dyes after a second with a Driver ASSISTANCE/BRAKE ERROR Message. I tried unplugging the battery for 15 min and no luck. Any idea of a correction? The keys still operate the doors and are the original keys. Any advise would be huge.
My mk5 golf key will only turn to position one in the ignition it will come out, is it the same to take apart. Great video 👍 didn't know it was a vw problem.
Shot in the dark but do you know why the radio wouldnt be turning on after this repair? There was one plug i left unplugged. It was attached to the clear box, buti dont believe it was plugged in to begin with
My 2010 jetta has been at a shop for a whole month for exactly this repair but their issue is that they cant get my key to reprogram to the new ignition. Was there something that could have been done to prevent this?
were you replacing the lock cylinder and housing, if so why bother getting the cylinder out of the old housing. You get a new key with new lock cylinder don't you. Should I get new lock cylinder and housing for just the lock cylinder or just the housing.
Completed the whole installation with no issue but after putting all the housing back, it’s saying “No Key”. Car starts but won’t stay on, any suggestions?
So, I have had the EXACT same issue with my 2009 VW Jetta SE Sportwagen. My ex tried to FORCE the key to turn and start after a good year of having to make sure you held ur mouth right and jiggled &turned the key just right all at the same time in order to start it. I still have the original key &fob and the original ignition module after I replaced with a whole new module etc... now I am trying to remove the original ignition switch and replace the new one with it instead of using the new key that came with the new ignition &switches attached. Because he tried to start it with it the first time after the initial replacement if I remember correctly. Now the vehicle is in SAFE mode via the display in the center of the instrument cluster and after starting up strong as hell again without any issues first try, it runs a few seconds and blinks SAFE again &the immobilizer cuts the engine. It does exact same thing even when I've thought I was successful in hard resetting the ECU by touching the two battery cables together for a length of time to clear it out. But again, that was with the new module and key it came with while the original fob key was on the dash. If I can ever beat this old engine module enough to get it to let my key turn, &I'm successful in removing it & switching it out with the new1, will that solve my issue? I'm in a horrible spot rn having just escaped a LOOONG violent marriage and I truly NEED this vehicle atm for my daughter and I. He has tried to destroy it but I fixed everything else already. Mostly switches, interior oh &he sliced all 4tire sidewalls and I jacked up the back end, put it on stands, &removed two tires at a time to replace them which pretty much broke me but uk it is what it is. If I can fix the s issue she &I will at least be mobile &I can get a good job I don't have to work where I can walk to it. Thx for anything you may think of. &Btw I am a woman but my daddy taught me how to do everything a man can so I am mechanically inclined lol. Should be able to follow u. Thx again especially if you made it this far &God bless u for ur AMAZING VIDEOS!
Thank you for the great video! I’m at the part trying to remove the key mechanism from the cylinder and the hole (where you stick the T-pin through) doesn’t align with the side of the mechanism that yours does.. I can turn the key but it seems to be 180 degrees from yours. Can I still get it to release that way?
I have jetta 2011 .My car shifts first two gears at 3000-3500 and not have that much power but if i accelerate the rpm goes same but car moves with power. No engine light . Sparks plugs changed. I also clean the valve . Any suggestions????
@@deamonmachineokay I left a comment on your last video I watched your follow-up I still don't see why my vehicle says no key detected starts and dies after a second or two, all the wires are connected properly I didn't have this issue until I replace the cylinder lock which I'm confused because I just replace the mechanical part and all the electronics are still the same that were working before?
I'm doing this job right now and was wondering if you have to disconnect the battery? I've seen a few videos where they do that, but it doesn't seem necessary
I typically do because you'll have to turn the key a bunch of times to unlock the steering wheel to turn it etc... so I disconnect the battery to not deal with the noise of the dinger and the open door!
@@deamonmachine Have you ever had issues with lights on after disconnecting the airbag clip? I disconnected the airbag light under the radio when putting in a new radio, and afterwards the airbag light stayed on and the only way to clear it was to take it to the dealership, which cost money. I couldn't clear it with the OBD scanner tool I have.
It's unlikely it's the ignition switch (possible though). If the car doesn't complete turn off then it would, but as long as the key seems to work "mostly" normal except getting stuck sometimes, i doubt it.
How about a 2008 vw Jetta, 5 speed 2.5, it has a circuit board under the lock cylinder it a plastic housing. How do you remove that, or will it drop with the cylinder after i drill the top bolts?
I've got to change this on my daughter's 2009 Jetta. Just curious, what should a normal or average shop price be on this work? I think the VW dealership is trying to have an office party on what they want to charge. Thanks!
Just standard punch size that they come in, no need for a giant one. Also don't turn the ignition switch w/o having the ignition LOCK inside of the housing (the part the key goes into, that comes out of the housing). Once you have it assembled as it was right before you dropped it out of the car taking it out, it'll be fine to turn the key to make sure it works. Results may vary and I can't guarantee anything cause reasons.
Hello deamonmachine, i did the installation and the computer says no key .I installed the old key that the car was already working before , it starts the car for 2-3 seconds and shuts off after and says no key. And i cant close my windows, they are open. Is there something you can suggest me to do?it would be very helpful
not very versed with every tool. any recommendations on a name that you would call the little pin? im having a hard time finding something that will work.
I use a T-pin also known as a sewing pin. You can pick them up at walmart or anywhere that sells fabric I'd assume. I got a pack of 100 of amazon for like $4.
i have a black box with a computer board inside covering the ignition switch. one small torx screw and i still can't get it to come out of the way. i unplugged the 2 connectors hoping they were blocking more screws but i don't see any. 2006 jetta
@@deamonmachinei just completed 10 minutes ago 🥵🤬 i just pulled firmly down. want to add your vid came in clutch supreme, tho. security bolts were a mf! thank you very much🙌🏼
No programming involved if you are just repairing the ignition housing. If you lost keys or something and need a new key cylinder, then that would need to be programmed.
Ok so the key remains the same? Because it has the microchip in it that is super expensive. Im going to give this a go. My key wont turn at all, so I'm pretty sure this is the fix. Thanks for your videos
My problem is the key won't go in. Is it possible to just replace the lock cylinder part (the black part that holds the key cylinder) and if yes do you still have to remove the whole lock housing as shown in this video?
If your key won't get in, then you will still have to remove the housing cause the key must turn to get that lock cylinder out, you'll have to figure out a creative way to get that apart.
Im not sure how to put this. I am switching just the cylinder portion. We transfered over the key lock from our old one to the new one, do we also need to switch the ignition starter switch as well or will the one it comes with work?
Are there any other ways to get the bolts loose? I have been trying almost day and it doesn’t want to budge at all. I have bought a punch and hitting it at different angles like you are with no success!
@@niahh8218 You would need a drill bit for cutting metal and then the Easy out (Easy Out is a brand name, specifically a trademarked name for a type of screw extractor.) If you are going to a tool store you'd ask for "Bolt extraction tools" or "bolt extraction bits, I think lowes and home depot carry some.
@@mikeeaye yes. I had to adjust the rear part of the cylinder till it was set to where it was matching up to where the key was. Then lined up the key to it.
I swapped out my ignition switch and tried to turn on my car, it turned on for a second but then turned off and went in to SAFE mode. What do I do next. Please help me.
plug in the key sensor (the black ring around the key), you have to take the covers back off again to do it. What's happening is the immobilizer is not detecting the key and the car shuts itself off.
I'm not entirely sure what it does cause I never had an issue with it, but yes some cars DO NOT come with that piece, if yours doesn't have one, don't worry about it, it wasn't supposed to come with one.
You didn't plug in the wire that goes to the ring that is around the key when it's in the ignition On a VW, if you start it and it shuts off all by itself with 1 second (not stuttering, not stalling, just shutting off), then it's an immobilizer issue. The Ring that goes around the key detects the key and lets it start. Check that plug (you can get it in w/o taking it all apart, just the covers off).
the internals come apart and jam the mechanical linkages. 90% of the time I can get it freed up at least one more time to drive it. Lots of turning the key and jiggling. Sometimes they are good and jammed and I have to drill out part of it (not sure what it's called cause there's not exactly an exploded view of that part). Otherwise i take it off first then beat the crap out of it to get it to turn to get the lock cylinder out.
@@deamonmachineyoo thanks for the video man, if I can't get the key to turn after beating on it just drilling out the darker metal area on the barrel should do the trick?
Waiting for my replacement to arrive but I find this video very handy. Don't know if I'll to need to remove the steering wheel or not (will like to avoid that). I own a 2011 Sportwagen with the 2.5. Cost at the dealer $250USD, Amazon: $25. I'm also waiting for the sunshade replacement for the panoramic sunroof: Dealer: $800USD; Amazon: $20 Whatsup with the dealers cost this days? I remember it was not so bad to give them the car.... Grat video
The little fingers that hold it up, little black retaining clips that act like a lock holding it up w/o bolts in. It pop's up like a latch, push them down (look at the new one and you'll see the little mount hook spots).
@@chrisruiz5820 Just a lesson in FOBS. The battery is only for the remote as in the unlock/lock buttons. You don't need the FOB battery to start the car. The transponder in the key is picked up by the antenna. For all you guys that can't start their cars after doing this you did something wrong with antenna and it's not picking up the transponder in the fob. It's the ring around the cylinder. You either didn't install correctly, broke it or didn't plug it in.
My key doesn’t turn fully and im going to buy a new housing and replace it with the old one. The new one comes with 2 keys. How would i code it to work for the car or will it just work like normal?
@@deamonmachine yeah i had to get it recovered 😩. I’ve ordered a new whole locking barrel with the ignition switch and immobilised with 2 keys. Do you think swapping it out completely will work? This is my hardest job yet an im not a mechanic 😅
Hola, me sirvio,, (Mexico), Yo mismo cambie el cilindro de encendido,,, ! me costo $600 ! (TENGO EL MISMO VEHICULO), seria excelente que el audio estuviera en español,,,,
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I just want to say , I am 30 year female , who is NOT in any way a mechanic and I studied this video for two days and successfully replaced my cylinder and attached the old key lock switch and the back sensor….I’ve been doing the George Jefferson all day! I never comment on videos even if I am successful but I felt so compelled to leave this much worthy praise ! Thank you so much ! This saved me 1200 dollars !
The George Jefferson 🤣🤣🤣
I am a female as well. The bolts are the only thing I am stumped on.
@@Amy_Moss2021 I helped my son do this about a month ago and the hardest part was getting the tool to get any angle so it can turn the bolt. Be patient. At first I was skeptical that it would really work for us. Short hard taps with a hammer and a punch should create a bit of bite in the bolt head. Once you get it to move even a little, it goes pretty quick from there. It only moves very little at a time so I had to keep resetting and tapping a new bite into the bolt head each time. But it does work. Good luck
I just drill the shit out of it. I used a normal drill. I cut the bit so the drill can fit between the plastic and the bolt. I kept going up 3 times on sizes and the last bit spun the bolt head off.
My problem is getting the keep clip out. Any suggestions
Hey ! First of all I want to thank you for both your videos about this issue. I just fixed my car 5 minutes ago, it’s finally run!!!
Spent around 4 hours yesterday to take apart everything inluding steering wheel and lock, if you guys struggle , it is how it’s supposed to be , so just keep trying, I was about to give up a couple of times but this Tech’s success made me keep trying !
Just listen and pay attention to every detail this man said , or you will struggle like me.
Few tips.
1. Get different picks !
2. If you can’t achieve success in removing cylinder lock out of housing - USE DIFFERENT SMALL needles , picks , everything that you can find and try, I pulled it out only after 4th pick that I tried. If it doesn’t come out - then pick is not in the place , it should come out easily!
Thank you so much good man !
Shout out from BMW of Dallas trainee tech 🎉
I'd thought I'd throw my two cents in. I tackled this job on my 85 year old mothers '14 jetta before the key got stuck in the lock. Didn't need that scenario. Anyway, I tried the punch and hammer method for about half an hour before I gave up and grabbed my right angle drill and ez out and had them both out in a quarter hour. So if anyone else is having trouble with the punch method, the drill is a sure thing. Besides that, the job was a breeze, thanks to your video. It was a great help and your instructions were spot on. Sometimes people who make these types of videos are really hard to listen to. Thanks again Brother, you made this job easy with no drama. 👍👍
Thank you so much. The mechanic quoted me $1,000 for this. I did it for $50.
I’m not the sharpest tool but this video was an amazing guide. Thank you so much this video saved me a $750 and gave me some DIY points. A tip for anyone that is having trouble with the tamper proof bolts use a Dremel and get a diamond tip and fit it through the space.
Wow this video saved me a bunch of money thought I'd have to go to the dealership to get a new keyed for the anti theft but didn't. You are a lifesaver my friend I did this project in about 6 hours.
Thanks a LOT! This saved me around 800$ and only took 1.5 hours in total. Especially thanks for showing the repair without the need for removal of the airbag and steering wheeI. Much appreciated!
Great videos! I'm currently having the same problems with my 2012 Jetta Sportwagen. I have a new assembly ordered which should be here this afternoon. I've got the column covers off and hopefully tomorrow it will be a bit warmer (unheated garage) and I'll get those so call security bolts out and remove the assembly. Thanks for these videos.
GREAT video, I watched 6 or 7 other videos before finding yours. I was ready to go out and buy an angle drill and set of easy outs expecting to fully dismantle the steering wheel, air bag, steering column, etc just to be able to drill out the bolts, until I watched your video. What seemed like an all day job just to get to the retaining bolts took me 90 mins, and removing the bolts with the dot punch, 5 mins, and thats with a claw hammer not even a half size brass mallet. Thank you so much, and yes, you are right, the hardest part was finding the clip that held the barrel in place. I would imagine that it also saved a small fortune. Thank you so much.
Thanks I was able to replace the key assembly I wouldn't have attempted this without watching your videos! Great video.
Thank you! Your video is extremely helpful. I had one mechanic tell me they couldn't repair so I am attempting to repair on my own. Fingers Crossed! :)
Bro, seriously, thank you! You saved me a ton of money and I’m trying to save up for my wedding! Appreciate you! 🙏
Congrats on your wedding! As the soon to be man of the household, get used to fixing everything!
Came for some advice stayed for the 24 karat gold hammer, Thanks a bunch
This vid made life easier for all parties involved. Thank you. 🙌
Thanks man! Between this and another video I was able to do it with no prior car repairing experience. Hardest part for me was getting the key to move just enough so those 2 dots align, so I banged on that metal thing again and again and drilled that hole, sprayed dw40 inside the hole... this process took me about 2 hours but no matter, now it's fixed and everything is put back together. Thanks again!
Awesome video(s) on this replacement! I did mine today, and it took me less than two hours of working time (I did have to go back to VW to swap the lock housing, because they originally gave me the wrong version of it, but I'm not counting that in the time it took).
Not an "easy" job, but easier than I expected it to be. Taking pictures of where the wires go as I went, and referring to the video made all the difference. (Also make sure you have all the tools you'll need before you start).
Things I learned along the way:
-Getting the security bolts out was easier than I expected; maybe mine were not cranked in too tight?
-Make sure the T25 bolts are all the way tight on the sides of the wheel before trying to clip the plastic back into place, or else things won't line up right.
Thanks again!
Thanks for the tutorial! My dealership wanted $250 to diagnose the issue (even though they already knew what it was) and possibly $1,500-$2,300 to fix it. I did it in an afternoon and only spent $110 for the new ignition switch.
Yup don't know shit about cars much but you my man changed that. Thank you bro for this video
Great video, I used a .05 Allen to get the ignition out of the housing. Key is working like a charm
You save me, buddy! Thanks so much for your detailed video. I was able to walk right through the process. Thanks to you. Great job!❤
Thank you so much You're right on I did forget to plug it in . I owe you a beer . You're a good individual.
I'm an automotive locksmith and what we do is take a die grinder and grind a slot in those bolts after they are out and use a flathead screwdriver to reinstall them.
too messy for me and takes longer. I used to do that way.
@@deamonmachine A lot of times as a locksmith we aren't repairing these or any others that use shearhead bolts. They might need a rekey or we repair them as in they have bent and or worn wafers. We do our thing and reinstall. If we need a new unit which is rare for us than we use the new shearhead bolts. Being mobile we don't carry a bolt and screw supply cabinet with us so slotting them is quick an easy for us and yes a bit messy.
I haven't done this myself but people have drilled out the side cap removed the spring and the pin reinstalled without it and supposedly it never locked up again. I'm sure those parts have a function with the steering lock but you would know more about this than me.
@@scotts4125 I drilled out and removed the guts of mine because I didn't want to buy a ~$200 housing when I really don't care. It just locks the steering wheel.
@@deamonmachine Once doing that does it lock at all? Taking that broken piece out is the cause so to me it's a fix. The real theft deterrent is the key any way at least to me. The steering lock has been kept from before the transponder days. We have had cars that were locked and we needed the wheel to turn. Many times a few blows with a rubber mallet or open palm to the steering wheel while turning the wheel at the same time would release the lock but I didn't tell you that. :)
A trick to removing the two shear bolts is glueing a longer bolt, with a nut on the end, to the top of each bolt with some JB Weld. Left it overnight and the next day I could easily unscrew them with a wrench.
Crap, i just bought some vanadian punches... i might want to try the jb weld move instead😂
@@ChampWinJim definitely keep the punches. I did hammer them a fair bit before trying the glue method
@@kaap93 i found that using strong magnets balacing on top of the screws has turned out to be the way to have the screws balaced perfectly against gravity, like i slammed my doors 20 times and they are not falling over and are perfectly centered on the antitheft bolts even with the steering wheel at an sloping angle from gravity.... i just made a short about it 🙂
You are a Professional at this!! Keep up this amazing content
Didn't think that punch and hammer would get the security bolts out but it really works. Great video. Otherwise, you skipped over how the end piece comes out between 8:59 when its, in and 9:07 whens its out. Trying to figure that out so I don't break something.
I noticed that you tested whether the key works in the new ignition housing without being installed on the car. I recall other videos mentioning to not spin the ignition lock unless it is installed on the car, as it could permanently damage the mechanism. What do we need to be aware of? Thanks a ton!
Great Video!! Seeing you do a couple of these makes me wonder how often they go bad
Very often unfortunately. from the past 2 weeks I have 3 sitting on my tool cart.
“Or just bang it back on the way you got it off”. 😆
Good idea on going REAL cheap and primitive!
Thank you for the video, my friend just bought a 2015 Jetta and broke the key because that cylinder is tough to turn off.
You saved me a lot of money!! Thank you so much!
My neighbor has a 2010 Jetta in mint condition but it has a broken ignition. He’s asking $1500 for it ? Think it’s worth it?
Great video! Does the key have to be turned fully in the ignition before removing the ignition from the old housing (the part where you drilled the old housing)
Only to the "on" position, you don't have to fight the spring pushing the key back the whole time. So just click it forward as far as it goes and let go, and that's the position that the lock cylinder release lever can be accessed at.
Thanks very much, also found this useful for my 2011 Skoda Octavia. Saved me a £600 bill from the local Skoda Garage
Great video, this is on my to do list. My beetle key won't turn in the ignition. I bought the ignition switch but I believe its more this problem.I have dash lights, and all the things but the key won't turn even with jiggling. Did you get the new assembly from the dealer?
Yo this video helped me out a lot, thank you!
Thank you 👍 got me thru it
hey quick question great video by the way, i was wondering what tools you used or if i could get a list of them
I have a question if the key is broke off can you still use it if you I get it out
Thank you very much.Video was really helpful.
Would you suggest going ahead and changing this anyway at a certain mileage?
Amazing video. On the first video (How To Remove and Fix the Ignition Switch in 2012 VW Jetta DIY), you disconnected the speed shifter and moved the car out of park position. Why is that necessary? I don't see this being mentioned/required in this second video.
I’m going to do this job soon, where did you get your parts from?
I watched your video and changed it in no time. Your vide was super informative. Unfortunately i didnt realize that the the immobilizer harness wasn’t fully plugged in. The car started and dies with a NO KEY DETECTED. I looked over it and found the mistake. I then fully seated the plug and tried it again and now the car starts and dyes after a second with a Driver ASSISTANCE/BRAKE ERROR Message. I tried unplugging the battery for 15 min and no luck. Any idea of a correction? The keys still operate the doors and are the original keys. Any advise would be huge.
Hey man! I had the same issue, have you had any luck on how to fix it?
Great video. Thank you. Did you use the same bolts ?
just want to ask my vw keeps running after i pulled the key out. need to replace iginition switch?
My mk5 golf key will only turn to position one in the ignition it will come out, is it the same to take apart. Great video 👍 didn't know it was a vw problem.
Shot in the dark but do you know why the radio wouldnt be turning on after this repair? There was one plug i left unplugged. It was attached to the clear box, buti dont believe it was plugged in to begin with
My 2010 jetta has been at a shop for a whole month for exactly this repair but their issue is that they cant get my key to reprogram to the new ignition. Was there something that could have been done to prevent this?
Yes, they should have left the original lock cylinder and just replace the cylinder housing
How do you drill out the dark grey circle thing to get the key to turn more to line up the holes for the paper clip to properly work its magic?
were you replacing the lock cylinder and housing, if so why bother getting the cylinder out of the old housing. You get a new key with new lock cylinder don't
you. Should I get new lock cylinder and housing for just the lock cylinder or just the housing.
Completed the whole installation with no issue but after putting all the housing back, it’s saying “No Key”. Car starts but won’t stay on, any suggestions?
Plug in the black ring that goes around the key hole (small 2 pin connector). That detects the key.
So, I have had the EXACT same issue with my 2009 VW Jetta SE Sportwagen. My ex tried to FORCE the key to turn and start after a good year of having to make sure you held ur mouth right and jiggled &turned the key just right all at the same time in order to start it. I still have the original key &fob and the original ignition module after I replaced with a whole new module etc... now I am trying to remove the original ignition switch and replace the new one with it instead of using the new key that came with the new ignition &switches attached. Because he tried to start it with it the first time after the initial replacement if I remember correctly. Now the vehicle is in SAFE mode via the display in the center of the instrument cluster and after starting up strong as hell again without any issues first try, it runs a few seconds and blinks SAFE again &the immobilizer cuts the engine. It does exact same thing even when I've thought I was successful in hard resetting the ECU by touching the two battery cables together for a length of time to clear it out. But again, that was with the new module and key it came with while the original fob key was on the dash. If I can ever beat this old engine module enough to get it to let my key turn, &I'm successful in removing it & switching it out with the new1, will that solve my issue? I'm in a horrible spot rn having just escaped a LOOONG violent marriage and I truly NEED this vehicle atm for my daughter and I. He has tried to destroy it but I fixed everything else already. Mostly switches, interior oh &he sliced all 4tire sidewalls and I jacked up the back end, put it on stands, &removed two tires at a time to replace them which pretty much broke me but uk it is what it is. If I can fix the s issue she &I will at least be mobile &I can get a good job I don't have to work where I can walk to it. Thx for anything you may think of. &Btw I am a woman but my daddy taught me how to do everything a man can so I am mechanically inclined lol. Should be able to follow u. Thx again especially if you made it this far &God bless u for ur AMAZING VIDEOS!
You don’t need to take those bolts out when you stealing a car. it looks like you had a hard time getting those bolts out😅 good video thanks.
Thank you for the great video! I’m at the part trying to remove the key mechanism from the cylinder and the hole (where you stick the T-pin through) doesn’t align with the side of the mechanism that yours does.. I can turn the key but it seems to be 180 degrees from yours. Can I still get it to release that way?
If you can make a short video of what's going on and link me (make a short?) I'll be happy to do what I can
@@deamonmachinecan you let me know what the fix was? I’m having the same problem. Thanks.
I have jetta 2011 .My car shifts first two gears at 3000-3500 and not have that much power but if i accelerate the rpm goes same but car moves with power. No engine light . Sparks plugs changed. I also clean the valve . Any suggestions????
Could you explain the drill step further? I drilled a hole in the same place as you but my key still won’t turn far enough.
Can someone please link the specific part and part number needed for this replacement? Want to make sure I'm getting the right one!
Could I buy an assembly form a salvage yard? Its about $100 for the whole column, but people are telling me I will need to program the key.
I really want to thank you for responding. But it's in safe mode would the Ring cause safe mode
How do you know it's in safe mode? Does the Radio say "SAFE"?
@@deamonmachineokay I left a comment on your last video I watched your follow-up I still don't see why my vehicle says no key detected starts and dies after a second or two, all the wires are connected properly I didn't have this issue until I replace the cylinder lock which I'm confused because I just replace the mechanical part and all the electronics are still the same that were working before?
I think my issue for both videos is how do you get those screws back in that you punched out?
you replace them with different screws that you can actually screw in. I have a stock of bolts to use.
I'm doing this job right now and was wondering if you have to disconnect the battery? I've seen a few videos where they do that, but it doesn't seem necessary
I typically do because you'll have to turn the key a bunch of times to unlock the steering wheel to turn it etc... so I disconnect the battery to not deal with the noise of the dinger and the open door!
@@deamonmachine Have you ever had issues with lights on after disconnecting the airbag clip?
I disconnected the airbag light under the radio when putting in a new radio, and afterwards the airbag light stayed on and the only way to clear it was to take it to the dealership, which cost money. I couldn't clear it with the OBD scanner tool I have.
My son's GTI is having this problem with the key. He also is experiencing a fast battery drain. Could this cause that? And, thanks for the video!
It's unlikely it's the ignition switch (possible though). If the car doesn't complete turn off then it would, but as long as the key seems to work "mostly" normal except getting stuck sometimes, i doubt it.
How about a 2008 vw Jetta, 5 speed 2.5, it has a circuit board under the lock cylinder it a plastic housing. How do you remove that, or will it drop with the cylinder after i drill the top bolts?
You could provide a link to where you purchased the part??
We get it from our suppliers, but Napa/Autozone/Advanced should be able to get ahold of it.
Does the car need to be reprogrammed after replacing the cylinder?
no
I've got to change this on my daughter's 2009 Jetta. Just curious, what should a normal or average shop price be on this work? I think the VW dealership is trying to have an office party on what they want to charge. Thanks!
I honestly have no idea, the prices on the ignition assemblies seems to vary a lot depending on which version is available.
So you just replace the housing and it still works with the same key no need to go to the dealer and get a new key to work with the chip in it?
Did you ever figure out an answer to this?
I'm trying to get all the tools together for this job. How long should the punch be? I see most of them are 4-5 inches. Would that be long enough?
Just standard punch size that they come in, no need for a giant one. Also don't turn the ignition switch w/o having the ignition LOCK inside of the housing (the part the key goes into, that comes out of the housing). Once you have it assembled as it was right before you dropped it out of the car taking it out, it'll be fine to turn the key to make sure it works. Results may vary and I can't guarantee anything cause reasons.
@deamonmachine, what brand lock cylinder do you use to replace the oem one?
Hello deamonmachine, i did the installation and the computer says no key .I installed the old key that the car was already working before , it starts the car for 2-3 seconds and shuts off after and says no key. And i cant close my windows, they are open. Is there something you can suggest me to do?it would be very helpful
not very versed with every tool. any recommendations on a name that you would call the little pin? im having a hard time finding something that will work.
I use a T-pin also known as a sewing pin. You can pick them up at walmart or anywhere that sells fabric I'd assume. I got a pack of 100 of amazon for like $4.
i have a black box with a computer board inside covering the ignition switch.
one small torx screw and i still can't get it to come out of the way. i unplugged the 2 connectors hoping they were blocking more screws but i don't see any.
2006 jetta
th-cam.com/users/shortshhUihjR1ncs Watch that video, shows you how to get it off.
@@deamonmachinei just completed 10 minutes ago 🥵🤬
i just pulled firmly down.
want to add your vid came in clutch supreme, tho. security bolts were a mf!
thank you very much🙌🏼
Can we buy an ignition and just plug and play or does it need to be programmed by the dealership? I am finding keys and ignition for like 1-250$
No programming involved if you are just repairing the ignition housing. If you lost keys or something and need a new key cylinder, then that would need to be programmed.
Ok so the key remains the same?
Because it has the microchip in it that is super expensive.
Im going to give this a go. My key wont turn at all, so I'm pretty sure this is the fix. Thanks for your videos
Yes, the key is the same key cause you are moving over the "lock" part of the switch.
Do you have to get a new key how does that work
No, you transfer over the lock-cylinder to the new housing (the part the key goes into).
Much appreciated
Which direction are you tapping to get the bolt to turn
counter-clock-wise.
My problem is the key won't go in. Is it possible to just replace the lock cylinder part (the black part that holds the key cylinder) and if yes do you still have to remove the whole lock housing as shown in this video?
If your key won't get in, then you will still have to remove the housing cause the key must turn to get that lock cylinder out, you'll have to figure out a creative way to get that apart.
Im not sure how to put this. I am switching just the cylinder portion. We transfered over the key lock from our old one to the new one, do we also need to switch the ignition starter switch as well or will the one it comes with work?
Thank you!
Are there any other ways to get the bolts loose? I have been trying almost day and it doesn’t want to budge at all. I have bought a punch and hitting it at different angles like you are with no success!
drill and use a bolt removing tool like an easy out? That's how I used to do it but the punch and hammer worked soo much easier.
Okay so the tool called easy out?? Does that tool attach to the drill??
@@niahh8218 You would need a drill bit for cutting metal and then the Easy out (Easy Out is a brand name, specifically a trademarked name for a type of screw extractor.) If you are going to a tool store you'd ask for "Bolt extraction tools" or "bolt extraction bits, I think lowes and home depot carry some.
Would the process be the same in a VW golf?
Never mind. I just got it out. Thanks for the video!!
Wondering if you have a suggestion of what I did wrong. After I installed it thinks key is in even After I remove it. So I can't lock the car.
I have the same issue. Did you ever find a solution?
@@mikeeaye yes. I had to adjust the rear part of the cylinder till it was set to where it was matching up to where the key was. Then lined up the key to it.
So why does the top cover not come out?
I swapped out my ignition switch and tried to turn on my car, it turned on for a second but then turned off and went in to SAFE mode. What do I do next. Please help me.
plug in the key sensor (the black ring around the key), you have to take the covers back off again to do it. What's happening is the immobilizer is not detecting the key and the car shuts itself off.
I cannot see what im looking at in the video when youre talking about the tabs to get the ignition to drop…. where are these tabs
hey, I don't have the piece at 12:43!! Is this piece on all models? What does it do?
I'm not entirely sure what it does cause I never had an issue with it, but yes some cars DO NOT come with that piece, if yours doesn't have one, don't worry about it, it wasn't supposed to come with one.
Ok thanks. I never remember taking it out lol. Was about the buy one
What is that needle pick thing called. Can’t find it
Pick Tools, you can find them at harbor freight or any hardware store really, should be under $5 too.
What tool you used for the screw that holding the housing??
are you talking about the punch and chisel?
Yes sir.i did try but no luck for me. Not even move 😂😂😂😂. I think I need to drill it
Did we ever find out exactly what the tamper-proof bolts were?
I replaced the cylinder and put back the old key .so it turns now but starts then shuts off . Not sure what to do Any help help.thanks .
You didn't plug in the wire that goes to the ring that is around the key when it's in the ignition
On a VW, if you start it and it shuts off all by itself with 1 second (not stuttering, not stalling, just shutting off), then it's an immobilizer issue. The Ring that goes around the key detects the key and lets it start. Check that plug (you can get it in w/o taking it all apart, just the covers off).
Like your video John
What was keeping the key from turning?
the internals come apart and jam the mechanical linkages. 90% of the time I can get it freed up at least one more time to drive it. Lots of turning the key and jiggling. Sometimes they are good and jammed and I have to drill out part of it (not sure what it's called cause there's not exactly an exploded view of that part). Otherwise i take it off first then beat the crap out of it to get it to turn to get the lock cylinder out.
@@deamonmachineyoo thanks for the video man, if I can't get the key to turn after beating on it just drilling out the darker metal area on the barrel should do the trick?
Waiting for my replacement to arrive but I find this video very handy.
Don't know if I'll to need to remove the steering wheel or not (will like to avoid that).
I own a 2011 Sportwagen with the 2.5.
Cost at the dealer $250USD, Amazon: $25.
I'm also waiting for the sunshade replacement for the panoramic sunroof:
Dealer: $800USD; Amazon: $20
Whatsup with the dealers cost this days?
I remember it was not so bad to give them the car....
Grat video
Had to drill the blipping screws after 2 hours of hitting and accomplish nothing.
Other than that this video make this task fairly easy.
Thank you!
cut a flat spot in the bolts and use a screw driver in it for next time ;)
Smart
I took the bolts out. How the hell do you take it out
The little fingers that hold it up, little black retaining clips that act like a lock holding it up w/o bolts in. It pop's up like a latch, push them down (look at the new one and you'll see the little mount hook spots).
So I completed the whole process now my car say key not in range but I can unlock the doors with it
And I just replaced the battery in the key fob
@@chrisruiz5820 Just a lesson in FOBS. The battery is only for the remote as in the unlock/lock buttons. You don't need the FOB battery to start the car. The transponder in the key is picked up by the antenna. For all you guys that can't start their cars after doing this you did something wrong with antenna and it's not picking up the transponder in the fob. It's the ring around the cylinder. You either didn't install correctly, broke it or didn't plug it in.
My key doesn’t turn fully and im going to buy a new housing and replace it with the old one. The new one comes with 2 keys. How would i code it to work for the car or will it just work like normal?
there's no coding, just swap the lock cylinder (the part the key goes into) into the new housing.
@@deamonmachine i have no key you see so i cant even take it off. Thats why im resorting to changing the whole thing
@@BandsGiddyah, no key is a big issue.
@@deamonmachine yeah i had to get it recovered 😩. I’ve ordered a new whole locking barrel with the ignition switch and immobilised with 2 keys. Do you think swapping it out completely will work? This is my hardest job yet an im not a mechanic 😅
Hola, me sirvio,, (Mexico), Yo mismo cambie el cilindro de encendido,,, ! me costo $600 ! (TENGO EL MISMO VEHICULO), seria excelente que el audio estuviera en español,,,,
Can't get the 2 bolts on top to turn
Just the new switch for my brothers 2016 Jetta cost $900 and VW wants $500 plus to install it ????
Stuff is expensive. Knowing how to do something is valuable. It's the world we live in.
@@deamonmachine $500 for a 30 minute job tops = Bee Sss !!!!