Pro-tip: before driving the oil seal in, use the seal driver to pound the bushings into place. Mine took quite a beating with the driver and dead blow to get low enough to get the oil seal in far enough for the circ clip.
At 13:15 he says to torque the fork piston rod to the cap at 14 ft lbs. DO NOT TORQUE IT TO THAT. The correct torque is 8.5 ft lbs. It cost me $75 and 2 weeks to get a new fork piston rod. I torqued it to 14 ft lbs and the fork piston rod sheared right off. I had to easy out the threads from the cap. Not a fun month....
Watched this video to do my fork seals 4cs and everything worked perfectly just like the video thank you . And no I didn’t have any oil leak out while bleeding it.
i just took my forks apart and I noticed there was a missing washer the washer that goes under the seals. is only once fork supposed to have that washer? because only one on my forks lol
NEED HELP! Great tutorial, but my manual says 'oil capacity per fork leg is 670ml (22.65 fl. 0z)' how much for bottom and top? I've just received all the tools suggested from Rocky Mt. ATV and anxious to get stated.
A tip before parting to fork (wich also stated by ktm) is to heat the outer fork a little (unill roughly 50 degrees celcius) to making parting a little bit easier. Also for remounting, its adviced to heat it up a little bit! For the rest, great video!
hey man HELP !! ,guys i dont have access to dedicated fork seal grease so what other grease can i use to lube the seals, PLEASE BE ELABORATE because i use all purpose grease and seals started leaking in a day
Hi guys I'm currently rebuilding some 4CS off a 2015 FC250 When I added oil to the lower section and I was pumping the rod a fair amount of oil ran out through the upper section. I added an amount of oil extra (guess) for the amount that ended up on the floor. When spinning around and adding oil to the top section the rod will not float up by itself. Takes a small amount of effort to push down and stays down will not float up. Any ideas to help would be appreciated Thx
Is that the preferred method ( volume 510 cc bottom, remainder 130 top for 640 ml or cc total) I have always understood to rebuild modern cartridge forks the other side up, collapsed without spring and fill chamber slowly while stroking inner rod to bleed and using a linear measurement of the oil level to the top the tube.. ( air chamber / volume)
Yes, 510 bottom, 130 on top. While filling bottom (do this first with cap off, stroke damper rod up and down to help bleed. Pour slowly. Put in base valve, turn over, put cap on cartridge, fill with 130ml, pull up cartridge to max extension, then outter tube to match. Screw on. Pressurize with ~80 psi for 5 sec via removed bleeder screw. Lower outter. Set oil height. Insert adjuster rod, spring & spacers and screw on cap. Set clickers.
HELP !! ,guys i dont have access to dedicated fork seal grease so what other grease can i use to lube the seals, PLEASE BE ELABORATE because i use all purpose grease and seals started leaking in a day
@@HyperionGamingTOPKEK Man, it's been a while. Being the inner cartridge, I believe you can add oil into the inner cartridge when it's not inserted in the lower tube. Maybe you spilled a little over the outside of the inner cartridge??? ... and moreover, I read some other comments below and they're saying you need to replace the rod seal if you have a leak. Also look up Jeff Slavens "How to Fill WP 4CS Forks" video. He does it as suspected- with the top cap on while filling the for held upside down. th-cam.com/video/BbKIdVjo3Ic/w-d-xo.html
@@ryanlester761 i got creative while I was waiting on a response and found that just being super slow and careful keeps it dry because if you push and pull too fast you'll yank the seal out
@@HyperionGamingTOPKEK I was just pouring mine in with the fork upside down like I always have and it was coming out the bottom. Never had that problem before. Any idea what seal might not be doing its job? I am having trouble finding what it would be on the schematic. I may hafta revert to Slavens' way.
When I fill the bottom chamber it is leaking out of the tube as soon as I pump the rod. Any ideas? Is my vice too tight or should I replace the O- ring on the top? Any help would be awesome.
I found zero vids on fixing this issue, so made my own after fixing one of my forks thanks to the guidance I got from some guys on KTMTalk. th-cam.com/video/KmCpkwR-be8/w-d-xo.html
You can easily make your own. Just need a metal bar something like a ruler but could be less than 12 inch long.about 2 to 3 inch wide and sturdy enough not to flex. Drill 2 holes on each side of center that align with the cap holes...the holes should only be big enough to allow the largest threaded screw / bolt that will fit inside the 2 cap holes . Use a 2 inch screw with washers and double nut on one side. The tool should fit on top of the cap with the 2 screws fitting inside the holes, cut screws down to strengthen them from bending when rotating. The caps are not on tight and this will work perfectly.
Joey dirtbike they use air to force oil to push the cartridge rod up, so they can push it back down and bleed the system. In the video he used his hand to pull the rod up and pushed it back down manually to bleed air. I would do it the way he did it here, i think anytime you use compressed air when you dont have to you’re taking unnecessary risks, just my opinion. This video is the way to get it done right.
What year is your yz250f? We do have our "how to" fork rebuild videos for Dual Chamber Style Forks and Cartridge type.. not sure if these videos are the ones you're looking for?
Hello sir... Sir can i study for Service Suspension n upgrade Suspension...??? You have video all Suspension in disc or flasdisc??? I'm from Indonesia sir... You have number whatsApp???
Why would anyone want to rebuild those crappy forks? You would be way better off trading them for some older closed cartridge forks or, biting the bullit and buying some AER forks or, even better yet a set of cone valve forks.
Pro-tip: before driving the oil seal in, use the seal driver to pound the bushings into place. Mine took quite a beating with the driver and dead blow to get low enough to get the oil seal in far enough for the circ clip.
At 13:15 he says to torque the fork piston rod to the cap at 14 ft lbs. DO NOT TORQUE IT TO THAT. The correct torque is 8.5 ft lbs. It cost me $75 and 2 weeks to get a new fork piston rod. I torqued it to 14 ft lbs and the fork piston rod sheared right off. I had to easy out the threads from the cap. Not a fun month....
I wish I saw your post before I torqued mine to 14 ft lbs! Same damn thing to me!
2016 husky TC 250. This was pretty darn close, and massively helped me out.
You're a boss! Thanks to both you and Rockymountain.
*Joe Singh* We're happy to help. Thanks for watching our *how to.*
Watched this video to do my fork seals 4cs and everything worked perfectly just like the video thank you . And no I didn’t have any oil leak out while bleeding it.
Very Cool *James Teel.* Thanks for checking out our how to video. We appreciate it.
Excellent instructions👍
i just took my forks apart and I noticed there was a missing washer the washer that goes under the seals. is only once fork supposed to have that washer? because only one on my forks lol
NEED HELP! Great tutorial, but my manual says 'oil capacity per fork leg is 670ml (22.65 fl. 0z)' how much for bottom and top? I've just received all the tools suggested from Rocky Mt. ATV and anxious to get stated.
What is the amount of oil in the lower part and what amount of oil in the upper part? thank you
Would the oil level be the same for a 2016 250 SX? Redoing my fork seals and not sure how much on the bottom and top of the fork.
It would be nice if all the kits and parts would be in the description of this video. All kits, tools with URL for the 4CS fork.
maybe they are here: www.rockymountainatvmc.com/Sales/560/KTM-Husqvarna-4CS-Fork-Rebuild
A tip before parting to fork (wich also stated by ktm) is to heat the outer fork a little (unill roughly 50 degrees celcius) to making parting a little bit easier. Also for remounting, its adviced to heat it up a little bit! For the rest, great video!
hey man HELP !! ,guys i dont have access to dedicated fork seal grease so what other grease can i use to lube the seals, PLEASE BE ELABORATE because i use all purpose grease and seals started leaking in a day
@@ranvirsinghnetam8584 :D
Is there a possibility to make it 50mm lower ? (Scrambler project with fe 501 )
Would these forks retro-fit a 2013 dual chamber bike? I mean same triple clamp and brake and wheel... thx
Very well explained, very clear and precised ... William Australia,, 03/29/2022
Hi guys
I'm currently rebuilding some 4CS off a 2015 FC250
When I added oil to the lower section and I was pumping the rod a fair amount of oil ran out through the upper section. I added an amount of oil extra (guess) for the amount that ended up on the floor.
When spinning around and adding oil to the top section the rod will not float up by itself. Takes a small amount of effort to push down and stays down will not float up.
Any ideas to help would be appreciated
Thx
Is your O-ring still good on the rod?
Is the same process for the NO 4cs suspension, on the KTM 300 EXC 2015 ?
My 2016 KTM XC-W has the same for but the top cap is different but I think it's the same procedure with a few different tools
Is it? I have a 16 and my forks have been leaking since not long after I bought it new. Did you rebuild yours?
My compression side only moves four clicks, whether it is clockwise or counterclockwise. Any idea why that would be?
If I shorten my forks with spacers (I have done this to all my KTM's), do I put less oil in the bottom or the top? thanks
Hi trying to change sales on KTM 450 2016
The bottom bolt is just spinning inside and not loosening. Any ideas? Thanks
Same!
Is that the preferred method ( volume 510 cc bottom, remainder 130 top for 640 ml or cc total) I have always understood to rebuild modern cartridge forks the other side up, collapsed without spring and fill chamber slowly while stroking inner rod to bleed and using a linear measurement of the oil level to the top the tube.. ( air chamber / volume)
Yes, 510 bottom, 130 on top. While filling bottom (do this first with cap off, stroke damper rod up and down to help bleed. Pour slowly. Put in base valve, turn over, put cap on cartridge, fill with 130ml, pull up cartridge to max extension, then outter tube to match. Screw on. Pressurize with ~80 psi for 5 sec via removed bleeder screw. Lower outter. Set oil height. Insert adjuster rod, spring & spacers and screw on cap. Set clickers.
thank you so much!!
HELP !! ,guys i dont have access to dedicated fork seal grease so what other grease can i use to lube the seals, PLEASE BE ELABORATE because i use all purpose grease and seals started leaking in a day
Am I missing something? When you add oil to the bottom of the fork, what keeps the inner cartridge from sliding out and spilling all the oil? @10:00
I rebuilt these forks after my comment, and I get it now.
@@ryanlester761 what's the answer? I get oil leakage
@@HyperionGamingTOPKEK Man, it's been a while. Being the inner cartridge, I believe you can add oil into the inner cartridge when it's not inserted in the lower tube. Maybe you spilled a little over the outside of the inner cartridge??? ... and moreover, I read some other comments below and they're saying you need to replace the rod seal if you have a leak. Also look up Jeff Slavens "How to Fill WP 4CS Forks" video. He does it as suspected- with the top cap on while filling the for held upside down. th-cam.com/video/BbKIdVjo3Ic/w-d-xo.html
@@ryanlester761 i got creative while I was waiting on a response and found that just being super slow and careful keeps it dry because if you push and pull too fast you'll yank the seal out
@@HyperionGamingTOPKEK I was just pouring mine in with the fork upside down like I always have and it was coming out the bottom. Never had that problem before. Any idea what seal might not be doing its job? I am having trouble finding what it would be on the schematic. I may hafta revert to Slavens' way.
Спасибо, хорошо всё сделано..!
quantidade oleo vai cada camara?
Este modelo toma 640 ml en cada horquilla. Recomendamos consultar el manual del propietario para su modelo específico.
Thank you 👍👍❤️😘
When I fill the bottom chamber it is leaking out of the tube as soon as I pump the rod. Any ideas? Is my vice too tight or should I replace the O- ring on the top? Any help would be awesome.
Watch the way Slavens racing fills these forks. This guy is doing it wrong. i have no clue how he keeps the fluid from leaking out.
It doesn’t leak out of mine when upside down. I’ve heard of people having that issue and I have no idea what causes it.
You have to change the cartridge rod seal
I found zero vids on fixing this issue, so made my own after fixing one of my forks thanks to the guidance I got from some guys on KTMTalk. th-cam.com/video/KmCpkwR-be8/w-d-xo.html
thank you
Sweet torque wrench
Awesome video
Thanks *mobgma!*
Great video! Thanks!
I cannot find the fork cap wrench on the website... could anybody send a link to me where I could find it?
www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/1056/13900/Tusk-Fork-Cap-Wrench
You can easily make your own. Just need a metal bar something like a ruler but could be less than 12 inch long.about 2 to 3 inch wide and sturdy enough not to flex. Drill 2 holes on each side of center that align with the cap holes...the holes should only be big enough to allow the largest threaded screw / bolt that will fit inside the 2 cap holes . Use a 2 inch screw with washers and double nut on one side. The tool should fit on top of the cap with the 2 screws fitting inside the holes, cut screws down to strengthen them from bending when rotating. The caps are not on tight and this will work perfectly.
Nice man
Why are some people using compressed air
Joey dirtbike they use air to force oil to push the cartridge rod up, so they can push it back down and bleed the system. In the video he used his hand to pull the rod up and pushed it back down manually to bleed air. I would do it the way he did it here, i think anytime you use compressed air when you dont have to you’re taking unnecessary risks, just my opinion. This video is the way to get it done right.
Thanks A lot excellent video
*Jethro Alfonzo* Thanks for watching. Hopefully you got it all down for the next time!
Y'all can do yz250f forks redbulid? Thank you!
What year is your yz250f? We do have our "how to" fork rebuild videos for Dual Chamber Style Forks and Cartridge type.. not sure if these videos are the ones you're looking for?
2017
Anybody had issues getting the bottom bolt out, mine is super tight don't want to break anything, tried on both legs the same, did I miss a step?
Use a propane torch to heat it up.
Hit it with an impact after using heat
what is the size of the seal bullet??
For this bike it was the 48mm Seal Bullet.
Great video!
Very informative video. Thanks.
Hi, I'm from Colombia, I want to know how much oil I can give to my front suspension, a 300 ktm 1997
How much oil.
On my 2017 KTM 300 XC I used a 20mm wrench instead of trying to squeeze the 19mm wrench in there. Worked MUCH better.
how much oil in the suspension?
630ml according to my Husqvarna FE350 book
Can I change spring without draining the oil?
Awesome. Thanks for the video!
Por favor lo podrian traducir a español gracias
Thanks for that video!
Oil shock ktm 450 volume how many?
Hello sir... Sir can i study for Service Suspension n upgrade Suspension...??? You have video all Suspension in disc or flasdisc??? I'm from Indonesia sir... You have number whatsApp???
only 8mm rod...its a joke
Why would anyone want to rebuild those crappy forks? You would be way better off trading them for some older closed cartridge forks or, biting the bullit and buying some AER forks or, even better yet a set of cone valve forks.
What is the factory setting? How many clicks for compression and rebound
Refer to your specific bike's service manual for this.