what i do for endurance is doing laps (a lap is climbing up then down a climb from top to bottom) of an about 20 (5.10c, 6b) on the auto belay in our gym until im fully tired/pumped. for reference my redpoint is like a 26/27 (7b/7b+, 5.12b/5.12c) and boulder is about v6 i think maaybe a v7 (7a/7a+)
Just to be real. If I was standing there I wouldnt know what to climb and which would be good for me to do. With all his experience and his max climbing of 9c I can imagine its logical for him. But For me when climbing 6b max and only have 2 years of experience i can tell you that I wouldnt have a clue what to do. My power endurance is climbing top rope in gym.. doing 5c 6a and keep going when tired.. till i fall from the wall. Wouldnt know a better way of doing this.
Is it necessary to train this way on a overhanging wall. I have both Options - vertical as well. So maybe i would mix it up. Or is There something special or different to think about on a vertical way to train endurance?
It's generally better to do this on an overhanging wall just so that you can't take the wait off your arms, but if you're not strong enough to do this on an overhang then vertical works too as long as you don't purposefully rest.
The only thing Adam didn’t mention was whether he increased the rests between sets. In other words, after the 16th boulder problem (4 reps of each boulder), do you still only do 1 min rest?? Or is there a longer rest between actual sets of 4x4?
I think the amount of muscle pain he can tolerate would subdue a normal person into total resignation. By now his brain is also wired differently. The electric charge he can sent to his muscle must be the equivalent of a electric high voltage fence shock to a normal person.
@@matyitoth Damn right! Although the grade of them will be 3-5 grades below my maximum climbing grade. Might have to try different problems out to find the best set so it is doable .
Saw that too, was wondering if it has just been like that since birth or if he had an injury at some point. Cause he has that scar on his eyebrow so who knows maybe his face got mauled by a bear or something a while ago lol.
This dude is a beast, I wish athletes in sports like this gained more recognition.
"No biggie, just my 3rd session of the day; time to do like 64 boulder problems in a row with only 16 minutes rest" -Adam Ondra (paraphrased but w/e)
Ondra is build different
@@Miki-xh6fb He built himself, no excuse.
Dude's armpits have extra muscles.
I was just Guna say that
I'm pumped just watching this
Thanks Adam! I've heard these referred to as 4X4's
Wonder what happens when he gets new neighbors and all they hear all day is 1:30
what i do for endurance is doing laps (a lap is climbing up then down a climb from top to bottom) of an about 20 (5.10c, 6b) on the auto belay in our gym until im fully tired/pumped.
for reference my redpoint is like a 26/27 (7b/7b+, 5.12b/5.12c)
and boulder is about v6 i think maaybe a v7 (7a/7a+)
If you can climb V6 you can do every problem in my gym. People would be asking for advice constantly. I bet people would be offering to buy you drinks
@@EGbean2 wtf where do you live? xD
Yeah, make sure you do the math before committing to this and picking your problems...4x4x4 = 64 boulder problems. Pretty brutal!
These are not standard 4X4's, but 4X4X4's!
It's funny to think that Adam probably does 4x4's on boulders harder than I can even climb normally with added weight
I can't do this on vertical. Hats off for the fact you're doing declined
Damn I'm 15kg heavier than I was when I last climbed, looks like I'm not supposed to touch the wall.
This is training power endurance, not endurance
luigih8er19 cause I don't know what's the difference
He's not being powerful. Vid #4 was power endurance. This is anaerobic endurance or strength endurance.
Which is literally the endurance required for climbing. Hence the title “climbing endurance.”
Every route requires power, so power endurance training is better for route climbing than just local endurance.
eg: 4x4s vs hanging on jugs until failure
Just to be real. If I was standing there I wouldnt know what to climb and which would be good for me to do. With all his experience and his max climbing of 9c I can imagine its logical for him. But For me when climbing 6b max and only have 2 years of experience i can tell you that I wouldnt have a clue what to do. My power endurance is climbing top rope in gym.. doing 5c 6a and keep going when tired.. till i fall from the wall. Wouldnt know a better way of doing this.
his back has abs
i can see reading him the text placed beside camera :)
Wow yes.sr.motivation is the key
so 4 x 4 Boulders, 1 min rest
Nice rest dance Adam :)
interesting video! You have my like
Is it necessary to train this way on a overhanging wall. I have both Options - vertical as well. So maybe i would mix it up. Or is There something special or different to think about on a vertical way to train endurance?
It's generally better to do this on an overhanging wall just so that you can't take the wait off your arms, but if you're not strong enough to do this on an overhang then vertical works too as long as you don't purposefully rest.
The only thing Adam didn’t mention was whether he increased the rests between sets. In other words, after the 16th boulder problem (4 reps of each boulder), do you still only do 1 min rest?? Or is there a longer rest between actual sets of 4x4?
always 1 min rest
he has that smartphone 1 min countdown to make sure no extra rest.
Hello, please does anyone know how long should be the rest between the sets which are composed of 16 boulders? Thanks.
He doesn't mention but when I train these, I rest for 5 mins in between sets.
Flashbacks to my competitive team days...
Team? It's not a team sport right?
It's crazy how much stronger he is than me despite being the same height but weighing 30lbs less
I think the amount of muscle pain he can tolerate would subdue a normal person into total resignation. By now his brain is also wired differently. The electric charge he can sent to his muscle must be the equivalent of a electric high voltage fence shock to a normal person.
his forearms are bigger than his upper arm..
ever shaken a climbers hand?
That 9c is going to fall.
Janis Bumanis has
He climbed it
is it 4x4 or 4x4x4 ?
4x4. Wtf man :D
It's 4 x 4 x 4 : you do 4 boulder problems with 1 min rest at the end, 4 times. Repeat 4 times. 👍
@@IsraeliGuy18 so you will do 4 boulders 16 times ?
@@matyitoth Damn right! Although the grade of them will be 3-5 grades below my maximum climbing grade. Might have to try different problems out to find the best set so it is doable .
@@IsraeliGuy18 do that takes almost a half hour ?
is there porn in the background?
Looks like Adam's nose has a nose ;-)
Jeenius IAMa god I thought the same thing. I love Adam but he has 3 nose holes. That concerns me.
Saw that too, was wondering if it has just been like that since birth or if he had an injury at some point. Cause he has that scar on his eyebrow so who knows maybe his face got mauled by a bear or something a while ago lol.
A long nose means that he has a MASSIVE cock. I can confirm because Im that way.
Dude's Czech... give him a break...
aka 4x4's
4x4x4
Oops... I do it with 10kg lol
whats up with the porn on the background?
nice hair..
Title is misleading
what do you mean?
how so
Yeah, the video actually refers to power endurance training. Still, cool stuff !
Adam Ondra just said in the first seconds "we're gonna train power endurance"...not difficult to get to this conclusion..
Endurance and power endurance are two different things in climbing
Gege first
congrats! how does it feel to have achieved such an amazing task? feeling more complete now?
Joaquin Casco I always asked myself the same question, what's the catch of being first :)).
The screaming at the background at the start is annoying