This is an amazing product. Ordered an open box drive shaft that came busted. Thank gosh because little bit of research and I found this. Installed on a 2016 challenger rt. Didn't even have to lower the exhaust. I just removed the heat shield, cut the old mount up, and squeezed this bad boy in there. 30-40 minutes later, my driveshaft was no longer clunking away.
Wow that’s great! Never even considered this could save an otherwise trashed new carrier. When we buy driveshafts for development the carriers show up damaged quite often.
Just replaced mine on my 2016 challenger srt 392 easy install saved me alot of money this carrier is the best its solid follow the instructions and you will be good thank you jxb for the fast shipping!
Oh wow awesome sauce bro! I have a 2015 SRT 392 Challenger and I have to replace my center bearing on my car. I'm tryna order it now but it's asking me for a promo code and I'm watching video after video to see if anyone has a promo code and no luck my Mopar brother... Can you help me out or someone please?? I'm ready to have fun again!
This is a lifesaver 🎉❤. I ordered Thursday got it Saturday and installed it today on Sunday. Fast shipping and a super easy install!!!!!!Thanks JXB!!!!!!!
Going to be doing this coming up on my 2022 Charger HC. Would it be possible to swap the bearing out without dropping the exhaust? I figure it would be harder, but is it possible?
Just in case anybody was wondering. It's way easier to install on the base model charger, because you don't have the twin pipes. I just put mine on without disconnecting the exhaust. JXB out here saving lives 🙌
Yup, this comment is 100% true. Used a reciprocating saw to cut the side of the bearing, and an angle grinder for the 3 and 9 cuts. It was really scary because I’ve never used them, but I’m happy to report I still have all my fingers 😂
The good news for me was by the time I realized I needed to replace the center bearing, the rubber was almost all gone, so all I had to do was to cut the brace and put the new brace on. Good product tho, let’s see how it holds in the long run
@@JXBPerformance yeah, it is. Btw, for anyone reading this thinking on replacing it, make sure the heat shield is not touching the driveshaft when you put it back, unless you wanna feel your car is falling apart 😂.
THIS FLAT WORKS!!!!! Just installed soft kit on 2015 V6 Charger. Just like it was when we bought it brand new. Plus side is the JXB bushing is much wider so I dont expect this one to ever dry rot like the factory 1/8" material did Our Charger has dual exhaust and i did not remove any of it or the brackets holding it. I did have to remove heat shield bolts and slide it forward. After that cut old one off and installed JXB. Its a tight fit but pretty fast
Thanks for the thorough review and vote of confidence! If you shoot me an email at jay@jxbperformance.com I can help you get that vibration to go away too so it's perfect for you.
The bushing orientation doesn’t matter on this one. They can be installed with their arrows pointing front or rear. Just try to center the bushings as best you can on the bearing.
I’m about to order this for my 2015 charger rallye, however my rubber bushing is totally toast which means it’s been like this way before I bought the car. How can I be sure my driveshaft is still good before I buy this? Thanks!
Hi there after installing the noise I had went away but not the car shakes violently! Idk why I did everything as the video mentioned and added torque and locktight
I also purchased the JXB. And was also not happy with the vibrations it caused. BUT... I have 2 solutions for you. I can help you with the vibration you still have. 1. - This step really eliminated most ALL vibration that I had after installing the JBX on the car. The instructions from JBX are a little confusing to some (from reviews I have read). Most people are cutting off too much rubber off the bearing. Some have said they scrape all rubber down to bear metal of the bearing. I think I also scraped off a little too much rubber. If you scrape off too much, the JBX bracket will be too loose on the bearing. I found this out after I installed the JBX...and still had vibrations. The fix for this step requires you to remove the driveshaft from the car, but not bad...about 30-40 minutes. Once you have removed the driveshaft from the car, remove the JXB device from the driveshaft bearing. Get name brand -- md Sponge Window Seal part no. 43155 -- from Lowes or store near you. It is 1/4" x 1" weather strip with adhesive back. Cut a piece about 1/2" smaller than the circumference of the bearing on the driveshaft (because it's just a little too thick). The weather strip is flexible. Stretch it to make the 2 ends meet flush wrapped around the bearing. On a flat surface(driveway), install the bearing back into the JBX bracket. Make sure it's the half with "legs", the part with that bolts to the car. Take the other half(no legs) and put on top. You will have to push down to get the 2 pieces to meet together. Have someone else install the 2 bolts to hold the 2 parts together. Torque to specs. 2. Re-install driveshaft. Do NOT install the 4 rubber bushings that came with the kit. Instead, go get 4 rubber fender washers (part no 880374) and 4 metal fender washers (part no 290024) from Lowes. On the bolt that holds the driveshaft carrier to the car, put one metal washer then one rubber washer (in that order). Put the bolt with washers back in the JXB bracket. Put the other metal washer first, then the rubber washer on the other side of the JBX bracket before you thread it back to the car. Thread back in chassis bracket. Repeat other size. Torque down. Vibrations gone !!
Yes, here's the Magnum version: www.jxbperformance.com/products/p/lx-and-ld-pre-facelift-dodge-charger/challenger/magnum/chrysler-300-driveshaft-center-support-bearing-carrier-upgrade
just installed and i noticed a bit of vibration, is this the rubber washers ? i was wondering considering the factory one didn't have a washer and was straight into the body, I guess the washers are for deflection? road tested and put car back on stands to double check it afterwards and everything was still snug and torqued with locktite
Shoot me an email at jay@jxbperformance.com and I can assist. Vibrations stem from the center CV joint not spinning smoothly and are the leading cause of the OEM failures. Our bushings can take more abuse, but because of that the overall package is stiffer, so you're just feeling the vibration in the driveshaft through the carrier, whereas with the soft OEM one it soaks it all up (until it fails and all hell breaks loose). We have a number of remedies for vibration transfer I can discuss via email.
@@JXBPerformance You guys are a saving grace. Instead of $1,500, only had to pay 300 plus some labor time! I will definitely spread the word about this product.
What do you do if on those carier bolts that bolt to the body of the car snap because mine snap and had to drill it out and now i have a bolt the runs down from the top and a nut and washer on bottom to tighten
@@JXBPerformance I’ve got a 2017 challenger T/A. The carrier bearing is gone basically. I’m not understanding why it’s hard to replace the carrier bearing. Just gotta separate the two piece install the bearing and put it back together right? Or am I missing something?
The bearing itself is unserviceable on these shafts. Our replacement carrier clamps around the original bearing with its base layer of molded-on rubber still intact.
Brooo. I had that telltale growling noise while driving and sure enough when I got under the bearing had completely sheared from the outer rubber. Ordered this product, hoping it fixes the problem!
@@JXBPerformancePLEASE HELP ME my car didn’t shake before but after installing the noise I had went away but not the car now shakes violently! Idk why I did everything as the video mentioned and added torque and locktight
Here's the one for your car: www.jxbperformance.com/products/ld-facelift-dodge-charger/challenger-and-chrysler-300-driveshaft-center-support-bearing-carrier-upgrade
There are some workarounds if all your rubber has delaminated from the bearing. You can wrap the bearing in duct tape or electrical tape to take up the space, or shim the bushings inward by placing some thin strips of plastic or rubber between the bushings and the carrier frame. If you do the latter, it's a good idea to put a couple zip ties holding the bushings to the frame, as you're losing some contact with the engagement features of the bushings/frame.
They are $299 USD and you can order here: www.jxbperformance.com/products/p/ld-facelift-dodge-charger/challenger-and-chrysler-300-driveshaft-center-support-bearing-carrier-upgrade
@@JXBPerformance the stock 5.7, its just freezing cold, and i need to do the change on the ground outside, just thinking my options out first 😂 thanks for the reply.
Okay got mine installed with street bushings, and test drove my B5 A4 Avant on it with stock exhaust. I don't really detect any NVH, and honestly feels like there's less of it now due to how old and crusty my old carrier was. The first to second wrestle match is very minimal now (though my transmission is probably just super worn out at 256k miles), like he said the knocking in the back from on/off throttle is gone, and haven't heard very many noises going 90 MPH. I had extreme anxiety about cutting a piece of a ~$2000 part, but if you torque to spec and use thread lock (Please for the love of god use thread lock), it feels
Just ordered mine for a 2015 RT with Road and Track (Yes I know that means RT/RT) Im nervously excited to do this. Do you think I will have enough room to do this if I back the car on ramps?
@@JXBPerformance I ended up taking it to a shop with a lift and paying the 120 for an hour of labor from the mechanic. We did it together. If the exhaust didnt take so long to remove the process only took 30 minutes.
This is the product: www.jxbperformance.com/products/ld-facelift-dodge-charger/challenger-and-chrysler-300-driveshaft-center-support-bearing-carrier-upgrade
This is an amazing product. Ordered an open box drive shaft that came busted. Thank gosh because little bit of research and I found this. Installed on a 2016 challenger rt. Didn't even have to lower the exhaust. I just removed the heat shield, cut the old mount up, and squeezed this bad boy in there. 30-40 minutes later, my driveshaft was no longer clunking away.
Wow that’s great! Never even considered this could save an otherwise trashed new carrier. When we buy driveshafts for development the carriers show up damaged quite often.
What cutting tools did you use ?
Installed mine in the shop a few minutes ago. Super quiet and all that torque to the wheels now! Highly recommend this product! 💯
Awesome to hear!
Just replaced mine on my 2016 challenger srt 392 easy install saved me alot of money this carrier is the best its solid follow the instructions and you will be good thank you jxb for the fast shipping!
Oh wow awesome sauce bro! I have a 2015 SRT 392 Challenger and I have to replace my center bearing on my car. I'm tryna order it now but it's asking me for a promo code and I'm watching video after video to see if anyone has a promo code and no luck my Mopar brother... Can you help me out or someone please?? I'm ready to have fun again!
This is a lifesaver 🎉❤. I ordered Thursday got it Saturday and installed it today on Sunday. Fast shipping and a super easy install!!!!!!Thanks JXB!!!!!!!
Awesome to hear!!! We ship all orders that come in by noon M-F same-day :)
Going to be doing this coming up on my 2022 Charger HC. Would it be possible to swap the bearing out without dropping the exhaust? I figure it would be harder, but is it possible?
You'll definitely need to lower it a bit. I don't think getting a cutting tool up in there is going to be very doable with the muffler in the way.
Just in case anybody was wondering. It's way easier to install on the base model charger, because you don't have the twin pipes. I just put mine on without disconnecting the exhaust. JXB out here saving lives 🙌
Thanks for the feedback, that's great to hear! Our #1 enemy with ease of install is always how much exhaust is in the way.
Yup, this comment is 100% true. Used a reciprocating saw to cut the side of the bearing, and an angle grinder for the 3 and 9 cuts. It was really scary because I’ve never used them, but I’m happy to report I still have all my fingers 😂
The good news for me was by the time I realized I needed to replace the center bearing, the rubber was almost all gone, so all I had to do was to cut the brace and put the new brace on.
Good product tho, let’s see how it holds in the long run
win-win!
@@JXBPerformance yeah, it is.
Btw, for anyone reading this thinking on replacing it, make sure the heat shield is not touching the driveshaft when you put it back, unless you wanna feel your car is falling apart 😂.
Detailed installation process! As good as my product!👍
Make sure to use a brand new knife blade ! I thought it was easier to just drop the exhaust in order to have better access with my cutting wheel
Yes, definitely! We start with a fresh blade every time. The 99 cent ones from Harbor Freight work perfect!
THIS FLAT WORKS!!!!! Just installed soft kit on 2015 V6 Charger. Just like it was when we bought it brand new. Plus side is the JXB bushing is much wider so I dont expect this one to ever dry rot like the factory 1/8" material did
Our Charger has dual exhaust and i did not remove any of it or the brackets holding it. I did have to remove heat shield bolts and slide it forward. After that cut old one off and installed JXB. Its a tight fit but pretty fast
SUPER FAST SHIPPING ALSO!!!!
Thanks for the thorough review and vote of confidence! If you shoot me an email at jay@jxbperformance.com I can help you get that vibration to go away too so it's perfect for you.
@Mondo Official @mondoofficial654
What cutting tool did you use ?
@@kevlyoparher428 I used an air body saw. the kind that uses blades similar to hack saw
where can i order one ?
I didn’t notice an orientation mentioned for the rubber bushings in the jxb carrier. Is the line in the bushings supposed to be to forward or aft?
The bushing orientation doesn’t matter on this one. They can be installed with their arrows pointing front or rear. Just try to center the bushings as best you can on the bearing.
@@JXBPerformance thank you! I just noticed the arrows on the backside of the bushings 😅
I’m about to order this for my 2015 charger rallye, however my rubber bushing is totally toast which means it’s been like this way before I bought the car. How can I be sure my driveshaft is still good before I buy this?
Thanks!
Hi there after installing the noise I had went away but not the car shakes violently! Idk why I did everything as the video mentioned and added torque and locktight
Hey! I can help you troubleshoot. Please send an email to jay@jxbperformance.com
I also purchased the JXB. And was also not happy with the vibrations it caused. BUT... I have 2 solutions for you. I can help you with the vibration you still have.
1. - This step really eliminated most ALL vibration that I had after installing the JBX on the car. The instructions from JBX are a little confusing to some (from reviews I have read). Most people are cutting off too much rubber off the bearing. Some have said they scrape all rubber down to bear metal of the bearing. I think I also scraped off a little too much rubber. If you scrape off too much, the JBX bracket will be too loose on the bearing. I found this out after I installed the JBX...and still had vibrations. The fix for this step requires you to remove the driveshaft from the car, but not bad...about 30-40 minutes. Once you have removed the driveshaft from the car, remove the JXB device from the driveshaft bearing. Get name brand -- md Sponge Window Seal part no. 43155 -- from Lowes or store near you. It is 1/4" x 1" weather strip with adhesive back. Cut a piece about 1/2" smaller than the circumference of the bearing on the driveshaft (because it's just a little too thick). The weather strip is flexible. Stretch it to make the 2 ends meet flush wrapped around the bearing. On a flat surface(driveway), install the bearing back into the JBX bracket. Make sure it's the half with "legs", the part with that bolts to the car. Take the other half(no legs) and put on top. You will have to push down to get the 2 pieces to meet together. Have someone else install the 2 bolts to hold the 2 parts together. Torque to specs.
2. Re-install driveshaft.
Do NOT install the 4 rubber bushings that came with the kit. Instead, go get 4 rubber fender washers (part no 880374) and 4 metal fender washers (part no 290024) from Lowes. On the bolt that holds the driveshaft carrier to the car, put one metal washer then one rubber washer (in that order). Put the bolt with washers back in the JXB bracket. Put the other metal washer first, then the rubber washer on the other side of the JBX bracket before you thread it back to the car. Thread back in chassis bracket. Repeat other size. Torque down. Vibrations gone !!
@PLastName you should post some pics of that setup somewhereonline...sounds like a pretty interesting solution
need this for a 2006 SRT Magnum.. is there one?
Yes, here's the Magnum version: www.jxbperformance.com/products/p/lx-and-ld-pre-facelift-dodge-charger/challenger/magnum/chrysler-300-driveshaft-center-support-bearing-carrier-upgrade
just installed and i noticed a bit of vibration, is this the rubber washers ? i was wondering considering the factory one didn't have a washer and was straight into the body, I guess the washers are for deflection? road tested and put car back on stands to double check it afterwards and everything was still snug and torqued with locktite
Shoot me an email at jay@jxbperformance.com and I can assist. Vibrations stem from the center CV joint not spinning smoothly and are the leading cause of the OEM failures. Our bushings can take more abuse, but because of that the overall package is stiffer, so you're just feeling the vibration in the driveshaft through the carrier, whereas with the soft OEM one it soaks it all up (until it fails and all hell breaks loose). We have a number of remedies for vibration transfer I can discuss via email.
I’m about to order one now. Because this is what I need. I was just about to order a whole new drive shaft
Perfect, that's exactly why we made this! Saves you from throwing away a whole driveshaft over some cracked rubber.
@@JXBPerformance You guys are a saving grace. Instead of $1,500, only had to pay 300 plus some labor time! I will definitely spread the word about this product.
What do you do if on those carier bolts that bolt to the body of the car snap because mine snap and had to drill it out and now i have a bolt the runs down from the top and a nut and washer on bottom to tighten
@@JXBPerformance
I’ve got a 2017 challenger T/A. The carrier bearing is gone basically. I’m not understanding why it’s hard to replace the carrier bearing. Just gotta separate the two piece install the bearing and put it back together right? Or am I missing something?
Just placed an order for one. 2015 Challenger
Where. Are you getting the carrier bearing
The bearing itself is unserviceable on these shafts. Our replacement carrier clamps around the original bearing with its base layer of molded-on rubber still intact.
Brooo. I had that telltale growling noise while driving and sure enough when I got under the bearing had completely sheared from the outer rubber. Ordered this product, hoping it fixes the problem!
Definitely will fix you up. This is a super common issue on these cars. Just had a guy yesterday 30k miles and rubber is gone.
@@JXBPerformance fortunately mine made it to 120k lol
How do you make sure you don't cut the base layer of rubber, around the bushing, when you're going-ham with the Sawzall?
If you nick it with the blade it won’t hurt. It just needs to be mostly intact to fill the space between the bearing and our bushings.
What’s the cutting tool called seems to cut pretty well ?
It’s called a body saw. They’re great for getting in tight places. This one is made by Ingersoll Rand and is around $100 if I recall correctly.
@@JXBPerformancePLEASE HELP ME my car didn’t shake before but after installing the noise I had went away but not the car now shakes violently! Idk why I did everything as the video mentioned and added torque and locktight
About To Place My Order Now
How Can I order mine?
Or part number
2017 charger Allwheel Drive 6 cli
Please help to order the rigth Part
Here's the one for your car: www.jxbperformance.com/products/ld-facelift-dodge-charger/challenger-and-chrysler-300-driveshaft-center-support-bearing-carrier-upgrade
All my rubber is off to bare bearing??!
There are some workarounds if all your rubber has delaminated from the bearing. You can wrap the bearing in duct tape or electrical tape to take up the space, or shim the bushings inward by placing some thin strips of plastic or rubber between the bushings and the carrier frame. If you do the latter, it's a good idea to put a couple zip ties holding the bushings to the frame, as you're losing some contact with the engagement features of the bushings/frame.
@@JXBPerformance and what would happen if i didnt put any duct tape ?
Cual es precio y donde lo puedo ordenar
They are $299 USD and you can order here: www.jxbperformance.com/products/p/ld-facelift-dodge-charger/challenger-and-chrysler-300-driveshaft-center-support-bearing-carrier-upgrade
Do you really need to lower the exhaust? Or can you do it without it?
Depends how sneaky you are and what exhaust you have. It can be tight up above a muffler or dual pipes, but if you have a single pipe it's easier.
@@JXBPerformance the stock 5.7, its just freezing cold, and i need to do the change on the ground outside, just thinking my options out first 😂 thanks for the reply.
Okay got mine installed with street bushings, and test drove my B5 A4 Avant on it with stock exhaust. I don't really detect any NVH, and honestly feels like there's less of it now due to how old and crusty my old carrier was. The first to second wrestle match is very minimal now (though my transmission is probably just super worn out at 256k miles), like he said the knocking in the back from on/off throttle is gone, and haven't heard very many noises going 90 MPH. I had extreme anxiety about cutting a piece of a ~$2000 part, but if you torque to spec and use thread lock (Please for the love of god use thread lock), it feels
Just ordered mine for a 2015 RT with Road and Track (Yes I know that means RT/RT) Im nervously excited to do this. Do you think I will have enough room to do this if I back the car on ramps?
It'll be a bit tight under there but you might be able to pull it off.
@@JXBPerformance I ended up taking it to a shop with a lift and paying the 120 for an hour of labor from the mechanic. We did it together. If the exhaust didnt take so long to remove the process only took 30 minutes.
Just ordered it after dodge try to make me buy a new driveshaft for $1800 smh I’ll update on results
Same here buddy going get as well
What’s the longevity?
They have a lifetime warranty on them and are fully rebuildable.
Would this also work on an R/T 5.7 Challenger?
Yes if it's 2015+ it works on all charger/challenger/300s
Does anyone have the part number please?
This is the product: www.jxbperformance.com/products/ld-facelift-dodge-charger/challenger-and-chrysler-300-driveshaft-center-support-bearing-carrier-upgrade