Metal Building Insulation, final install with updated review after several years.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ม.ค. 2024
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I'm getting ready to do this on a 24x36x10 building just like yours and was wondering how it worked out for you without an air space in between the metal and the insulation. Everyone tells me I need a dead air space to not have issues down the road so I was going to go with a 1.5 insulation board to have a 1/2 inch dead air space between the out side metal panel and the insulation board but would like to have 2inch of insulation rather than a 1.5
Using the tape to stick the panels up, you will have a very minute air gap between the metal and the insulation. I think (opinion here) that getting as much insulation in there as possible is your best bet. Because realistically you're only going to get a r10 maybe an r15 rating at most without burrowing out the beams and doubling up on the insulation. I would recommend a dehumidifier based on your area and humidity level regadless.
In an early video you mentioned how poorly the foil was attached to the foam. Is it wise to attach the panels to the walls by gluing to the surface of the foil? Might you end up with the foam pulling away from the foil? I think I'd glue 1/2" thick vertical strips to the wall and then screw the foam panels into them with 2" wide washers. Less R value foam but excellent air gap. Are you going to cover everything with OSB? Will electric run overtop of everything?
I was concerned but after almost 3 years none of the panels have fallen that I used the tape on. The spray adhesive was worthless. I ended up putting door and window spray foam around some panels so that actually worked very well.
The problem with furrowing out the wall and attaching screws and washers is that the beams are 5 feet on center and the widest insulation I could find is 4 feet. The back and front walls varied wildly between 3'6" and 6 feet for the studs. So there was 9 inches additional on each panel.
As far as finishing I'm probably going to leave it as it is. If I have issues I may try my hand at making some shiplap on the sawmill but I won't use osb. 2 reasons. First there would be about 3 feet of waste per sheet which would be REALLY expensive and attaching wood to metal studs is already a PIA. The second reason I won't use OSB is I absolutely hate the look of OSB. I think my OCD interferes with OSB.
And if you check our Playlist I have a couple videos on doing the electrical. Come this summer when funds are freed up a little ill probably dig into it a little more but right now several homestead projects are higher priority.
Do you think thin furring strips going horizontal from tube to tube would be helpful for creating the air gap and giving the panels surface area to adhere to?
It would add another level of adhesion for the panels but you want minimal air gap. I don't see why it wouldn't work.
(First time viewer here)
What brand & thickness insulation panels are you using?
I'll be doing the same thing for my gf's barn in the coming months.
It's is an off brand insulation I found on marketplace. It was about 1/2 the cost of box store and I didn't have to order a flat bed semi truck worth. The thickness of this was 2". I also used 1" on the roof as well as this same 2". I think that was in building insulatiin part 1 on our playlists.
@@southernyankeehomestead3230 , thank you.