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@@hsnwfl7766 we're in southeast Virginia near the ocean.

Not sure. I didn't have the building too long before we did the insulation. It's loud in a hard rain but it's not deafening.

To understand why I refer to it as a KJ there's a history lesson. So be prepaired... long reply. Skip to the third paragraph for the bushings. Originally, at the onset of WWII Willys Overland built the prototype for the for the first jeep and called it a Military Bantaam or internally the MB. When the contract was awarded for the design Willys didn't have the manufacturing capability to make enough MB's to fulfill the needs of the military so a split contract was made between Ford and Willys overland. At this point regardless of manufacturer it was given the designation of GPW. "G" was Government, "P" was the 80" wheel base , and "W" was for Willys design. This carried through to the end of WWII where Ford moved on to making the Edsel and Willys Overland decided that there was a lot of former GI's that wanted their beloved "jeep" so since they already had all the tooling and people they started turning out the MB but because it wasn't "military" they changed the designation at the factory to "Civilian Jeep" or for short CJ. Every iteration until 1987 followed the CJ moniker with an alpha numeric number following for different variations or updates. So you end up with CJ7, Cj8 (scrambler), cj5 so on and so forth. As willys was incorporated into AMC (American Motor Company) and later into Daimler, Fiat and now stellantis any new models or major redesigns get a factory 2 or 3 letter designation. So the Comanche pickup was designated MJ, first wrangler (87 to 95) were YJ's, original grand wagoner were FSJ's all the way up to the most modern wrangler and gladiator (JL and JT). The designation for the liberty(US)/cherokee (overseas)is KJ and was replaced by the KK. This make sense now? As far as the bolts for the rack if you don't have a diesel KJ it's a little easier because there's more space under the front in the gassers (3.7s). If you remove the front skid guard you will see 2 large nuts or bolt heads going through the cross member. Those are your rack and pinion bolts. Looking from above you will be able to see the other side of those bolts just barely below the radiator. There might be a a fan shroud hiding them or grease and dirt depending on how clean everything is. The bushing go into the rack and pinion to shield the bolts from wearing the cast aluminum. They also space the rack and pinion off the cross member so they are pushed (not pressed) in from below and when bolted down are sandwiched between the upper bolt head and the cross member. Removing the steering shaft and a couple small clamps for the lines gives you enough room to rotate the rack housing enough to get the bushings in. It's not as simple as it sounds and will take some time and swearing to get it just right. Make sure to use the seatbelt to keep the steering wheel from moving otherwise you won't be able to get it to center correctly and you could damage the clock spring in the steering wheel itself (no horn, steering wheel controls, and a airbag/abs light if it breaks). Hope this helped.

Unfortunately I don't have good news for you. Here in the states only 2 model years came with a diesel and that was the 05/06 kj. So my only known source for parts or any information would have to come from your local dealer. A quick Google search shows Manila and quezon city are the only dealers in your country. Where yours is a Eurospec (european) you may have to order parts from Europe but your local dealer is going to be your best bet.

Yeah... it didn't age well.

@@southernyankeehomestead3230 great video. Felt like I was right there with u

If the shaft itself broke, then you're probably going to need a new pump. The one exception might be if you can find a small engine mechanic that has a spare part pump in their 20 year bin of screws.

I may ask a machine shop to make the shaft. The indent for the bigger woodruff key caused weakness in the shaft.

@user-se9kp3ze4x pay attention to cost. It might be cheaper to buy a new pump than have a single case hardened part made.

I figured the surface area. So 10 foot sides at 40 foot figures to 800 square foot (2 sides) then add another 480 (10x24x2 front and back) for 1280. I did the same for the roof but don't remember the exact number so we will say 600 square foot for a total of 1880 square foot. I then rounded up to 2000 for waste and errors. Each sheet is 4x8 or 32 square feet. So 2000÷32= 62.5 sheets. Round up to 65 for an even number of 2" and then add 20 sheets (600÷32 = 18.75 sheets) of 1" for the additional space in the rafters.

It would add another level of adhesion for the panels but you want minimal air gap. I don't see why it wouldn't work.

Hope you never have to replace a rack and pinion bushing. I'll tell you now you'll may not need 2 but replace them both and set a full day of swearing aside for the repair.

I appreciate the heads up on that one! BTW, I have tested the vehicle for 45 minutes and it did not shut off. Cheers! @@southernyankeehomestead3230

The problem with ours was the seal on the top of the gearbox under the disc leaks water that in turn collects in the gearbox and inside the motor.

Found out earlier this year the entire problem is the seal at the bottom of the plucker under the disc. It didn't seal filling the gearbox with water and then filling the motor internals with water. I could barely get the stator out of the motor itself it is so rusted. Before our next harvest I'm going ro build a plucker. Amazon one is junk.

I was concerned but after almost 3 years none of the panels have fallen that I used the tape on. The spray adhesive was worthless. I ended up putting door and window spray foam around some panels so that actually worked very well. The problem with furrowing out the wall and attaching screws and washers is that the beams are 5 feet on center and the widest insulation I could find is 4 feet. The back and front walls varied wildly between 3'6" and 6 feet for the studs. So there was 9 inches additional on each panel. As far as finishing I'm probably going to leave it as it is. If I have issues I may try my hand at making some shiplap on the sawmill but I won't use osb. 2 reasons. First there would be about 3 feet of waste per sheet which would be REALLY expensive and attaching wood to metal studs is already a PIA. The second reason I won't use OSB is I absolutely hate the look of OSB. I think my OCD interferes with OSB. And if you check our Playlist I have a couple videos on doing the electrical. Come this summer when funds are freed up a little ill probably dig into it a little more but right now several homestead projects are higher priority.

Using the tape to stick the panels up, you will have a very minute air gap between the metal and the insulation. I think (opinion here) that getting as much insulation in there as possible is your best bet. Because realistically you're only going to get a r10 maybe an r15 rating at most without burrowing out the beams and doubling up on the insulation. I would recommend a dehumidifier based on your area and humidity level regadless.

It's is an off brand insulation I found on marketplace. It was about 1/2 the cost of box store and I didn't have to order a flat bed semi truck worth. The thickness of this was 2". I also used 1" on the roof as well as this same 2". I think that was in building insulatiin part 1 on our playlists.

@@southernyankeehomestead3230 , thank you.

Thank you!

Thanks 👍

I'm thinking a ATV fuel injection.

Probably. But I just changed the filter yesterday and it's still rocking the same oil. I did top it off with some tranny fluid I had laying around the garage!

If you're buying ill do another video of the install!

Corn meal is American in terminology. Each country has different names for it, such as fufu, corn pone, polenta, and maize flour. Flour is just the action of breaking a grain into more easily digestible meal. And flour does not have to be bleached. That's much more modern. Bleaching does afford better rising but it also strips nutrients away from the grain. That's one of the reasons why we got the mill. We can use whole grains (wheat berries, corn, ours seeds) and make a flour with all the nutrients and none of the additives. It does mean we have to experiment a little because using whole grains in cooking has been lost with our industrialized flour.

@@southernyankeehomestead3230 True ,and yes true, and yes again. Your thinking is completely right. But large amounts of bread is not a good idea. Especially if off grid or homesteading. We make an artesian bread that has only 4 ingrediencies throw it in the oven for 30 mins and wa-la. We call it Shepards bread. If you look on YT punch in Shepards bread 4 ingrediencies. A bunch should pop up. Easiest bread in the world to make, and everyone likes it too. Homesteading We lived it, did it, and then sold it. We were glad to go. We had an animal visiting us, that isn't supposed to be real. They are. We warned the realtor but he just laughed about it. First person to view it , the day it was listed. Bought it. 48 viewed it. But the first #1 got it. You put the time ,effort, and work into it. It'll pay off. Biggest mistake we used to see all the time was people trying to do everything on the cheap. The No#1 item to have is a wood cookstove. A Good one. It'll heat your entire house. Cook your food. Heat your water. And dry clothes. #2 Solar and wind power. Go big. Learn to do crafts. And learn a trade. After a bit you wonder where time goes. We moved back home and got a little farm. Our driveway is a 1/4 mile long. So we are still not the socializing types. And we have 0% Drama. We make our own world, and live it with no regrets. Peace.

Yes. If you look back WAY back in the beginning one of our first videos was corned bear. Our primary source for red meat is venison. Occasionally a bear will walk out during our long and overlapping hunting season. So why not?

@@southernyankeehomestead3230 I had no idea Bear meat was edible. I live in Australia, so that's a new thing to me to be honest. I'd definitely try it if I could. How does it compare to beef ?

@tonymontana897 flavor wise it's closer to pork than beef. But ech bear has a little different flavor depending on its diet. Some can be quite gamey (funny after-taste if gamey isn't in aussie lingo). You do have to make sure you cook it well done though (165 f or 74 c) do to a high possibility of tricinosis in omnivores and carivores.

@@southernyankeehomestead3230 Interesting mate. Actually, "Gamey" would be something us Aussies would say haha. We do have a tendency to add an "ie" or "ey" or just "y" after a word. Example. You guys say Bikers. We say Bikies. Electrician = Sparky Tradesman = Trady Refrigeration Tech = Fridgy etc. You'll be surprised how much in common we have despite us being down under lol. Nice chatting to you friend. All the best.

@tonymontana897 I've traveled a little and have found that the same words don't always mean the same thing. Ie pissed... here it's anger... britan, it's drunk. As well certain customs don't transfer well... I was in a bar in Darwin in the late 90s when I found out you don't slam your shot glass upside down after a shot... here in the states it's custom... apparently at that time it was "down with the queen"... we did manage to avoid a bar fight but it cost us a lot of shots!

As often as I need a flat faced bucket I can just weld a piece of scrap to the teeth in a few seconds and grind it off at the end. Although I could also just unbolt the teeth... but I figured that out after the fact.

Not in our area. They didn't carry anything.

Yeah... I try to keep it family friendly with... nuance?

Yes. I have been thinking of getting rid of it but I still use it monthly during the summer. And it still runs OK.

@@southernyankeehomestead3230 Would you mind sending me some pics of how the top link hooks up and works , I have the same one just can get the top link hooked up correct I think I’m missing some parts

I'll try to get down back and get a picture tomorrow. Little late tonight to get a decent picture. Send us an email in the mean time.