Nice, I'm good with the engine building because I'm a machinist and built many engines. But I'm not a mechanic so everything behind the engine I'm not an expert at. This pinion gear installation explanation was easy to understand. Now I'm sure I could install one using a crush sleeve eliminator, thanks.😎👍
I was installing new pinion and carrier bearings for the first time and didn’t realize how much of a pain in the ass the new crush sleeve is. Definitely using the eliminater next time I’m in there
@Slushers1 yes. I think this one had .028" shim to set the pinion depth. Little trick i learned that makes it easier is use a sacrificial bearing and grind out the inside so it slides on and off easy. Set up the pinion depth. Once I know what shim needs to be under there, press the new bearing on and recheck. Saves alot of headache trying to press that bearing on and off.
@@jdbas71 so after you get the depth set using the shims under the pressed on bearing then you use the crush sleeve eliminator with its own shims to set the pre-load on the bearings. Is that correct? Thanks😁👍
I know with a crush sleeve you should do a few complete rotations before you take your reading to ensure the bearings are parallel and there aren't any bind points, so they start tighter and loose a bit with a few turns. Did you see this also with the crush sleeve eliminator?
I have a question I’m really hoping you can help me out.Now you torqued the pinion nut to a 170 ft lbs. If you were to torque it to say 250 ft lbs the preload would increase and make it tighter. Does it really not matter if it’s torqued to 170 or 300 ft lbs as long as the preload is correct? I’ve been working on mine and trying to grasp that part of it.
If using the crush sleeve eliminator you can torque it to your spec and the preload should stay the same. Double check the preload with an in/lb torque wrench to verify.
If your using a regular crush sleeve, the preload will increase with torque. If you over torque, you could over do the preload. That's why I went with the eliminator. No parts stores local to me carried the crush sleeve I needed. If was to mess one up I would of had to wait on another so I just went with the eliminator.
@@jdbas71thank u for the quick reply I’m working with a crush eliminator. I torqued it initially to 150 ft lbs and it was only a few inch lbs.so then I torqued it to 250 and it was to to tight.I backed the nut off a little and retorqued it to 200 ft lbs and the preload was in spec.So why when it’s a solid spacer does torque still determine the preload spec ?
Do you stack shims behind the face of the pinion where your first bearing would seat or do you just add the proper amount like you showed in the video on the crush sleeve elimination
@queencityscoots1181 yes I had to put shims behind the pinion bearings to set my pinion depth. What I do there is use an old bearing and ream out the inside so it slides on and off easy. That way I don't have to press it on and off to find my pinion depth. The shims behind the bearing affect your gear pattern and not your pinion bearing preload.
@@jdbas71 awesome man I have everything to set my pinion depth but after watching this I just wanted to make sure I wasn’t missing anything I appreciate it
@idaolea8172 the crush sleeve sets the proper amount of preload on the pinion bearings while allowing the pinion nut to still be tight. With a crush sleeve, you would torque the pinion nut until you get the proper preload on the bearings. If you over-tighten the nut and get too much preload on the bearings it crushes the sleeve too far so if you were to just back the nut off a little, your pinion nut would be loose and the preload on the bearings would be gone. Also once you take the pinion apart, that crush sleeve is no good because if you were to torque it back to the same torque the bearing preload would be different. With the crush sleeve eliminator, you find the actual measurement you need between the bearings to be able to achieve preload on the bearings and the proper torque on the pinion nut. I believe it's set up like that because pinion bearings require preload on the bearings whereas wheel bearings of the same style require endplay. So where the pinion bearings are constantly squeezed together, wheel bearings have a little play. I hope I explained that in a way that makes sense.
Nice, I'm good with the engine building because I'm a machinist and built many engines. But I'm not a mechanic so everything behind the engine I'm not an expert at.
This pinion gear installation explanation was easy to understand. Now I'm sure I could install one using a crush sleeve eliminator, thanks.😎👍
@@itseithergonnaworkoritaint7852 Thanks!
Thank you! Most sites I came across would only talk about the CSE but so far you were the only one who actually installed it.
I was installing new pinion and carrier bearings for the first time and didn’t realize how much of a pain in the ass the new crush sleeve is. Definitely using the eliminater next time I’m in there
Good 👍🏻 trick
Great video
THANK YOU!!!!
EXCELLENT !!!!
Did you use any shims under the pressed on bearing first? Thanks
@Slushers1 yes. I think this one had .028" shim to set the pinion depth. Little trick i learned that makes it easier is use a sacrificial bearing and grind out the inside so it slides on and off easy. Set up the pinion depth. Once I know what shim needs to be under there, press the new bearing on and recheck. Saves alot of headache trying to press that bearing on and off.
@@jdbas71 so after you get the depth set using the shims under the pressed on bearing then you use the crush sleeve eliminator with its own shims to set the pre-load on the bearings. Is that correct? Thanks😁👍
@Slushers1 yep that's correct
@@jdbas71 ok thanks for the clarification 😁👍
I know with a crush sleeve you should do a few complete rotations before you take your reading to ensure the bearings are parallel and there aren't any bind points, so they start tighter and loose a bit with a few turns. Did you see this also with the crush sleeve eliminator?
Not really. I messed with it for quite a while and it seemed to stay fairly consistent.
I have a question I’m really hoping you can help me out.Now you torqued the pinion nut to a 170 ft lbs. If you were to torque it to say 250 ft lbs the preload would increase and make it tighter. Does it really not matter if it’s torqued to 170 or 300 ft lbs as long as the preload is correct? I’ve been working on mine and trying to grasp that part of it.
If using the crush sleeve eliminator you can torque it to your spec and the preload should stay the same. Double check the preload with an in/lb torque wrench to verify.
If your using a regular crush sleeve, the preload will increase with torque. If you over torque, you could over do the preload. That's why I went with the eliminator. No parts stores local to me carried the crush sleeve I needed. If was to mess one up I would of had to wait on another so I just went with the eliminator.
@@jdbas71thank u for the quick reply I’m working with a crush eliminator. I torqued it initially to 150 ft lbs and it was only a few inch lbs.so then I torqued it to 250 and it was to to tight.I backed the nut off a little and retorqued it to 200 ft lbs and the preload was in spec.So why when it’s a solid spacer does torque still determine the preload spec ?
@who55f30 good question. With a solid spacer I would think torque wouldn't affect preload unless torque was high enough to distort the spacer.
Going as high as 300 could stretch your threads, I wouldn't recommend it especially with an aftermarket nut.
Do you stack shims behind the face of the pinion where your first bearing would seat or do you just add the proper amount like you showed in the video on the crush sleeve elimination
@queencityscoots1181 yes I had to put shims behind the pinion bearings to set my pinion depth. What I do there is use an old bearing and ream out the inside so it slides on and off easy. That way I don't have to press it on and off to find my pinion depth. The shims behind the bearing affect your gear pattern and not your pinion bearing preload.
@@jdbas71 awesome man I have everything to set my pinion depth but after watching this I just wanted to make sure I wasn’t missing anything I appreciate it
4:42 -How much torque you applied total to crush the sleeve?
@norbertrivera I torqued the nut to 170ft-lbs
@@jdbas71 wow! i'm doing this to my Ford Ranger i change the ring and the pinion. I'm very afraid to damage the pinion nut with this torque.
good to know .020" gm 12 bolt truck.. of course YMMV*
YMMV.... your mileage may vary ;)
Your measurements may vary as well depending on the housing and hardware
why u need a crush sleeve or eleminator?? on weelbearings there is no thing like a sleeve.
@idaolea8172 the crush sleeve sets the proper amount of preload on the pinion bearings while allowing the pinion nut to still be tight. With a crush sleeve, you would torque the pinion nut until you get the proper preload on the bearings. If you over-tighten the nut and get too much preload on the bearings it crushes the sleeve too far so if you were to just back the nut off a little, your pinion nut would be loose and the preload on the bearings would be gone. Also once you take the pinion apart, that crush sleeve is no good because if you were to torque it back to the same torque the bearing preload would be different. With the crush sleeve eliminator, you find the actual measurement you need between the bearings to be able to achieve preload on the bearings and the proper torque on the pinion nut. I believe it's set up like that because pinion bearings require preload on the bearings whereas wheel bearings of the same style require endplay. So where the pinion bearings are constantly squeezed together, wheel bearings have a little play. I hope I explained that in a way that makes sense.