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@@corysather6640 THANKS CORY!!!!

@donaldcochrane3283 Howards says rpm range is 2800 - 6400.

@Slushers1 yes. I think this one had .028" shim to set the pinion depth. Little trick i learned that makes it easier is use a sacrificial bearing and grind out the inside so it slides on and off easy. Set up the pinion depth. Once I know what shim needs to be under there, press the new bearing on and recheck. Saves alot of headache trying to press that bearing on and off.

@@jdbas71 so after you get the depth set using the shims under the pressed on bearing then you use the crush sleeve eliminator with its own shims to set the pre-load on the bearings. Is that correct? Thanks😁👍

@Slushers1 yep that's correct

@@jdbas71 ok thanks for the clarification 😁👍

@ernestopanattvillegas7307 Thanks!!! For timing it idles at 18° and total is at 36°. I have lighter springs that bring it all in by about 2500 rpm.

Nice cam love the sound I have the 186755-10 to but still putting motor together love the video

@ernestopanattvillegas7307 do yu have a video of your cam

@@billyrusley4545 thanks

@ernestopanattvillegas7307 @ernestopanattvillegas7307 Thanks!!! For timing it idles at 18° and total is at 36°. I have lighter springs that bring it all in by about 2500 rpm.

Lol I just realized I answered you on both videos. Thanks for watching

@@jdbas71 cool! thanks for the tips bro! keep the joy in that beautiful truck

@queencityscoots1181 yes I had to put shims behind the pinion bearings to set my pinion depth. What I do there is use an old bearing and ream out the inside so it slides on and off easy. That way I don't have to press it on and off to find my pinion depth. The shims behind the bearing affect your gear pattern and not your pinion bearing preload.

@@jdbas71 awesome man I have everything to set my pinion depth but after watching this I just wanted to make sure I wasn’t missing anything I appreciate it

@idaolea8172 the crush sleeve sets the proper amount of preload on the pinion bearings while allowing the pinion nut to still be tight. With a crush sleeve, you would torque the pinion nut until you get the proper preload on the bearings. If you over-tighten the nut and get too much preload on the bearings it crushes the sleeve too far so if you were to just back the nut off a little, your pinion nut would be loose and the preload on the bearings would be gone. Also once you take the pinion apart, that crush sleeve is no good because if you were to torque it back to the same torque the bearing preload would be different. With the crush sleeve eliminator, you find the actual measurement you need between the bearings to be able to achieve preload on the bearings and the proper torque on the pinion nut. I believe it's set up like that because pinion bearings require preload on the bearings whereas wheel bearings of the same style require endplay. So where the pinion bearings are constantly squeezed together, wheel bearings have a little play. I hope I explained that in a way that makes sense.

@norbertrivera I torqued the nut to 170ft-lbs

@@jdbas71 wow! i'm doing this to my Ford Ranger i change the ring and the pinion. I'm very afraid to damage the pinion nut with this torque.

@@rick-wg4in Thank You!!

@Scubasteve22 Yep ol Ks. Thanks Scubasteve!!!

I’m in Kansas too!! We should go cruise! I’m just east of kanopolis lake and I’m building an 84 c10 with a 383 right now

@ONETimothy2.12-14 summit racing headers, 2½" duals, x-pipe, street max mufflers (magnaoflow knockoffs) Thanks!!! It was very quiet at first but deepened up after a few hundred miles.

@jdbas71 Thanks brother very cool. I've not been a fan of the magnaflows. Might have been the series mufler or those street max' sound different. Some setups drown out the cam yours is right on 👍🏻

I've thought about doing that. I have an extra lens from another truck I could use as a donor.

Not really. I messed with it for quite a while and it seemed to stay fairly consistent.

Yes it is

What mufflers are you running? Love to hear the cam!! Thanks

@@wdzboyz Thanks!! They are Street Max mufflers. They're 21" long. 2½", x pipe rolled tips

For everyday driving it is

​@@jefedabusiness5570Nah....

I used the NCR80E harness from eBay. It basically hot wires the transmission so you have to manually shift it and a switched ground for the lockup converter. Would be nice if it shifted auto but $100 compared to $800....

Trans go ,4L80E manual kit HD3 I'm getting to build one for my 69 Chevelle with a little 468 hydraulic roller, I'm running a TCI shift controller in my 91 2500 4wd just an Ole work truck with fresh 383 ready to be installed this week!!

Thanks! In gear, I only have about 7hg. Vacuum brakes are kinda stiff at idle. Totally fine once cruising. Most of the idle quality is because I recurved the distributor to limit the curve. With vacuum advance unhooked it idles around 18°. With the vacuum advance hooked up it idles around 26°.

@@jdbas71 Yeah that's about what the 445 stroker has for vacuum, 6-8hg in gear at about 800 RPM and also running 18-19* base timing. Tried running manifold vacuum with the vac advance as a cheat for more base timing when running and it's just not consistent enough so its on ported vac. It runs really smooth with the vacuum can pulled all the way to full advance with a handheld vacuum pump that's for sure lol.

@@MattsRageFitGaragewell that 445 stroker does a huge bit difference almost went that route but an 66 gt350 gave me a better idea for my FE 396

@@Coronet_shop Yeah, can't go wrong with either but if you were buying a bottom end for one the stroker kit is the better deal than buying a used crank and rods and having it all reconditioned.

@@MattsRageFitGarage believe Barry does supply factory 3.984 crank in great steel but having a 391 crank I’ll be fine once swap in

If using the crush sleeve eliminator you can torque it to your spec and the preload should stay the same. Double check the preload with an in/lb torque wrench to verify.

If your using a regular crush sleeve, the preload will increase with torque. If you over torque, you could over do the preload. That's why I went with the eliminator. No parts stores local to me carried the crush sleeve I needed. If was to mess one up I would of had to wait on another so I just went with the eliminator.

⁠@@jdbas71thank u for the quick reply I’m working with a crush eliminator. I torqued it initially to 150 ft lbs and it was only a few inch lbs.so then I torqued it to 250 and it was to to tight.I backed the nut off a little and retorqued it to 200 ft lbs and the preload was in spec.So why when it’s a solid spacer does torque still determine the preload spec ?

@who55f30 good question. With a solid spacer I would think torque wouldn't affect preload unless torque was high enough to distort the spacer.

Going as high as 300 could stretch your threads, I wouldn't recommend it especially with an aftermarket nut.

Works pretty good. Thanks!!!

THANK YOU!!!!

I’m with you!

You drive to work with race gas everyday? That gets EXPENSIVE. I've been there, and STILL am there...

Thanks!!!!

I don't commute in traffic with this truck but drive it almost every day. I have driven it to bigger cities in bumper-to-bumper traffic and it does great. Haven't seen a track yet with this engine because our local track is closed. I'd bet it would run real good in your combo

With those parts, you need a cam with 270 to 280@.050, 650+ lift range and a 106 lobe separation. Solid roller of course. Takes a whole lot of SBC to utilize a Dominator. A hydraulic roller in that combo would be a waste of parts.

Probably would look into a 4500 to 5000 stall convertor and 4-30 gear.

Thanks!!!!

Good question. Howards doesn't say anything about it being a small base circle cam on the site or the cam card 🤷‍♂️

Dyno would help but don't have one anywhere close. I've made several small changes to the carb. She seems to run great.

Funny you mention that. I have a 5.3 on the stand that's finally ready for assembly. Mild little forged piston, btr cam, Holley terminator setup. Just gotta finish the Barnbird 1st.

Carb needed more accelerator pump and she's a solid 2 pumper. Now it's better. 2 pumps and she'll Crack right off.

@amend5269, this is a lot of trolling for someone who doesn't have any videos of their own vehicle.

​​@@HouseofTaint..😂 Right ??.. dude is chumming with his best stink bait !!.. @jdbas71 is not biting.. 😅

Thanks!! It really does seem like a decent, streetable combo. So many people have told me that it's too much cam for the street or too much for a pickup. I really think it drives nice around town, gets 12ish mpg on the freeway at 80ish mph and will blow the tires off at will. What more could a guy want. Smiles per miles!!!

@@jdbas71 exactly!!!

Your measurements may vary as well depending on the housing and hardware

3.73

@@jdbas71 gears matter

@@jdbas71 you know about engines and drive trains .man . i like the truck .

@zcam1969 THANKS!!!!

It's not a pull-a-parts yard. Definitely learned to inspect them WAY closer.

Should run pretty good!!!!

Thanks!!!

My favorite for sure. Simple yet stylish

Thanks!!! It does run pretty respectable. This cam is fairly docile for its size.

Had one part a few weeks ago on the other rig. Replaced this one for good measure

He has a big triangle edelbrock air cleaner with a K&N. It fit great on this setup. 👌

@@jdbas71 Usually because of how the fuel line connects that lump right there doesn't let most air cleaners set down on the carb without a spacer.🤷 Glad his works on it.😎👍

I was waiting for it 😆 He'll probably leave the edelbrock on for awhile. The truck don't get driven very often and the holley always leaked.