How did you decide to use a 250A main fuse (not sure the size here, but in your pervious build that's what you used)? What is your calculation there? Thanks.
In my previous build, with a 3000w inverter, a 300-350a fuse would probably have been a better fit, but I wasn't planning on pushing it to it's limits, it was designed to easily run tools in my garage and fridge/freezer.
I only use it for providing external power to DC applications like running my ham radios or anything else that is on the smaller side under 30 amps. Yet it also could be used to input 200+ watts of solar, because it does have fuses, but it would need to go through a solar charge controller first.
The push button switch (Both +/-) goes to the fuse panel and then the (+) to the battery. All the switches are in the same configuration (same order) as the fuses. When the gauge is turned off there is no memory. The gauge pulls very little and usually doesn't make much of a difference in accuracy. If I am actively using the power supply on a trip or to run items over a long period of time I will leave the gauge on.
@@jimmiescott8409 I understand how they work, we have had batteries . chargers and solar panels for over 3 decades now, however we never called them a generator until now, But its just a battery with a charger attached, Once flat the the solar panels wont give you enough charge to run anything of, unless your walking around with a 5kw of solar around with you. Its just a buzz word marketing companies used to bullshit people that don't know better. If you plug it into your car to charge, the car is generating the power, if you plug panels into it the panels are generating power with charger, nothing that you buy and walk out the shop with generates power, it only stores which is why for a centaury they were called batteries and not generators ...
The MOST complex, MOST compact setup I've ever seen. KUDOS having the patience....
Can you provde a list of parts, looking ro build one of these
I plan on putting one together
Another perfect design.. but I would go crazy trying to fit all that wiring in that box! Man, you must have a lot of patience. LOL
Thanks, I've been trying to re-start my brain ever since
very tidy! Nicely done
I love it. Cant wait to build one myself. Have you considered installing an emp proof device?
A emp bag or container has crossed my mind, $$
How did you decide to use a 250A main fuse (not sure the size here, but in your pervious build that's what you used)? What is your calculation there? Thanks.
In my previous build, with a 3000w inverter, a 300-350a fuse would probably have been a better fit, but I wasn't planning on pushing it to it's limits, it was designed to easily run tools in my garage and fridge/freezer.
What would you connect to the smaller Anderson plugs? Is that to provide power externally, or to supply input to charge?
I only use it for providing external power to DC applications like running my ham radios or anything else that is on the smaller side under 30 amps. Yet it also could be used to input 200+ watts of solar, because it does have fuses, but it would need to go through a solar charge controller first.
Hey, AZ. Your video is very interesting. Might you be interested in reviewing our portable power station products?
Sounds great. Send me your details, website etc
Hi, how can we connect ?
Awesome build. I would like to know your parts list and or total cost of build
I plan on putting one together, the total cost would be roughly $1300-$1400 if you get great deals on parts
Do you use any diodes to prevent reverse power when connecting the shore power as well as solar simultaneously?
No I don't. I typically never have a need to run shore power and solar at the same time. Yet, when I have done it I haven't experienced any problems.
Could you please explain reverse power.
Shouldn't need that since his AC charger and MPPT are totally separate. You can charge those LiTimes at up to 100 amps.
Curious to how you installed the switch for the gauge and when gauge is off does it keep memory
The push button switch (Both +/-) goes to the fuse panel and then the (+) to the battery. All the switches are in the same configuration (same order) as the fuses. When the gauge is turned off there is no memory. The gauge pulls very little and usually doesn't make much of a difference in accuracy. If I am actively using the power supply on a trip or to run items over a long period of time I will leave the gauge on.
@customtech383 thank you for responding
Any chance you willing to make and sell one of these?
I'm honored you would ask but at this point in life I don't have the time. Sorry
What would a setup like this cost to build?
$1200-1300 if you find components on sale
@@customtech383 that's not too bad! Thanks for the reply!
@customtech383 you taking orders?
Parts list please?
I will try to get one together soon
Guage? 😃
2 awg between batteries and to inverter
familiar
Yes, I deleted and then changed a few things
It does not generate anything, it is a storage system.
Why do people call these generators, they are just batteries with extra plugs. It generates no power its only power storage.
That's what they are called. Deal with it
Once you plug in the solar panels the unit generates electricity
@@jimmiescott8409 I understand how they work, we have had batteries . chargers and solar panels for over 3 decades now, however we never called them a generator until now, But its just a battery with a charger attached, Once flat the the solar panels wont give you enough charge to run anything of, unless your walking around with a 5kw of solar around with you. Its just a buzz word marketing companies used to bullshit people that don't know better. If you plug it into your car to charge, the car is generating the power, if you plug panels into it the panels are generating power with charger, nothing that you buy and walk out the shop with generates power, it only stores which is why for a centaury they were called batteries and not generators ...
Solar powered generator