This is amazing as a route setter I've thought about how cool it would be to have a 3d printer in our gym so that if I wanted a certain hold or foot I could just print it out. Definitely going to look into 3d printing!
Yeah I also discovered CF filled filaments are a bit lame lol. For meshmixer few tips!!! When you delete an area you can just double click near the blue outline to automatically select all the surrounding triangles then do edit-erase and fill to clean it up, and with boolean operations I usually untick 'auto reduce result' if it's causing me problems, but the latest version is sooo much more stable. Try your next holds using the new 3D infill in slic3r :P
Hey Devin! Love the video! Just a suggestion, imbedding a washer inside the hold where the bolt runs through could keep the bolt from pushing through the back when tightening it to the wall. Keep up the great work!
I need to find something new to say, but, again awesome video Devin i dont think ill ever get bored watching this channel, and i hope you make videos for a long time to come (as well as becoming a successful product designer) :)
Cool! That worked better than I had expected! For spinning, the simplest approach is to add one or two wood screws through the hold and into the wall well off center, but lots of gyms don't like additional holes in their walls, of course. Adding a sand-paper or sticky rubber backing would help - I wonder if you could melt coarse sand into the back face with the heat gun? For the bolt, first off use a thick washer so the holding force is more spread out. From there, the internal forces want to rip a conical section of the material out so doing the entire hold solid is a waste. (In yours, a cylinder ripped out only because that's how it printed, if it was solid and failed like that, it would have been a roughly 45 degree angled cone starting at the back face of the bolt and spreading wider towards the back of the hold.) Focus on making somewhat more than that 45 degree cone solid, and that will be a fairly efficient starting point.
I just wanted to say how much I love your channel. I love seeing the process behind designs random things and I am taking an engineering class at my high school and we use Inventor and I also have a cheap 3d printer so I can make my cool ideas. Your videos are so inspiring for new projects, keep up the great work!☺️
carbon fiber filament sucks.This has been tested many times composite filaments are never as strong as the base material. Might as well use regular pla or even better use PC also taulman 910 should be good
VenomTheCat Watch Thomas Sanladerer's video about baking PLA ! CF doesn't give good strength to parts, but it helps when baking parts, it allows then to shrink less according to ProtoPasta ! :)
I am not sure less shrinkage when baking printed parts justify the cost for carbon Fiber filled filament Also un-baked pla parts are still way Stronger than annealed CF prints
Damn I'm so early! Hey Devin, I really like your Easy shop, but I think one thing that could improve it (at least to me) would be if you put more useful little gadgets on there - practical things! Here are some ideas, though I know your time/money/patience is limited: -Phone cases -Clothes hooks -Phone stands -Laptop stands -Pen holders -Phone docks -Cabinet handles/knobs -Headphone hangers (stick to edge of desk) -Odd shaped bottle caps (e.g. Kikkoman soy sauce tops) There are many more I haven't thought of, but hopefully this can help you as I feel like you could have a lot of success selling these kinds of things which people need! Best of luck, Spike (I posted this again because I don't think you saw it!)
I like to climb myself and I think this is a very cool project and I actually think it's pretty good that not everything worked out because this way you got to understand everything a bit better. ;)
I have thought about this before, but I'm not a climber myself, so I didn't try it out... My idea was to print it mostly hollow and without any bottom layers and then fill it with a resin. (Epoxy resins are probably better, because PU tends to get hotter when curing) You could also use something like XTC3D as an epoxy coating to get better surface strength and even mix that with sand or something similar for more grip. Keep at it! :)
can you walk through the hardware you have in order to do this? I'm trying to get a similar setup going, but confused about the hardware that's required. thx for the video!
The smaller holds might have broken because theres less surface area for the pressure from the screw to be spread across (I'm no structural engineer, so don't flame me if I'm wrong). Definitely an awesome application of such an up-and-coming hobby though!
Could you print with a large washer in place on the back as structural support to prevent the material warping towards the screw boss in the wall? You could design with a cutout for the washer then print up to the washer thickness, pause the print or have a "pause at z-height" and place the washer and have the remainder print with it integral to the part. I would think having higher infill or even doing a manual infill around the bolt to further reinforce would reduce some of the distortion. Great video, as always!
I've been pretty interested it trying this too! I was going to go for either ColorFabb's XT-CF20 (XT filled with carbon fiber), or their HT material. Both materials have great layer bonding and general strength. I definitely think your testing showed a great deal of promise! I look forward to seeing how the continuation of this project goes for you.
The Monoprice Select Mini. It costs 200$ and it's a very reliable plug-n-play printer. It's very popular because it's such a good printer for such a low price.
MatthiasChristiaens Small build volume, but most people (me included) won't need more than the 120*120*120mm build volume. The select mini is definitely going to be my first 3d printer once I get the cash
c fahy The bed is large enough for modt prints I think but I personally prefer a larger printbed. I would go for the Select Mini if it weren't for the small print bed so I'm going to buy a Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus. This is what I would recommend if you want a larger build plate but as I said, the Mini's bed will suffice for most prints and is great for beginners.
Perfect Tomorrow one of those prusia i3 copy (cost up to 200 euro with printing bed and quite large printing space) or tronXY 3d printer (what I can say is that it looks a little bit more stable but smaller. but its basically metal beams that you can buy longer and make it bigger so yeah)
the larger one worked better perhaps because there was more surface area to distribute the weight / force being applied by the bolt. That or or could be that the carbon stuff like you discovered, is more brittle / not flexible.
To stop the spinning the back of the hold is ideally concave so that the outer edge of the hold (at the end of the "lever") is being held by more friction. Obviously this is hard to achieve without grinding a concave into the print after the fact. The simple solution for more grip might be hovering the part 1mm above the build plate and generating support (maybe even in TPU or similar?). I think softer/more flexible plastics like ABS and PETG would work well because they would flex rather than just snap. Perhaps setting the slicer to print the first 7mm of bottom layers solid would make sense, and using a washer to increase more surface area for the bolt to press on. Though for a tougher plastic maybe Polycarbonate is worth a look?
I'm sure someone has said this already, but some washers for the main mounting bolt combined with a counter spin hole with a metallic insert would be useful.
just a quick tip when you use after effect's warp stabilizer. Try doing rolling shutter repair first to reduce the warpy effect and you can turn off warning to hide that unanalyzed frames
How did the nozzle fair against using carbon fibre filament? its notorious for grinding out nozzles. Have you considered using the wood fill filament or poly carb? the wood fill would be perfect for this and has a surprising amount of strength (and has out preformed the carbon fibre in some tests). I love the giant knot hold and its a great shape for multiple orientations on a wall.
Any chance you've got the model of that larger hold somewhere? Ha I'm starting to make some holds for a friend's climbing wall and would love to try to print that one, make a mold from it, and pour a resin hold from it. I love the idea of trying to print holds to use themselves but just would rather have a bomber for sure than mess around a lot with filament choices.
I actually have no idea why I haven't shared these files yet, uploading now! mmf.io/makeanything Thanks and good luck, a resin mold sounds like it could hold up better ;)
Didn't you get thermoplastic and duroplastic mixed up? thermoplastic materials get deformable under enough temperature and a duroplastic material doesn't, once it's fully cured. (sorry for rough translation, only use ther german words for it)
Is the software hard to learn? If you print these with a cheap material and then make a silicone mold from them and pour resin as is the common way to make holds that would be awesome. I am just terrible with technology though. How much is that big printer you used?
How about using an over sized hole for the bolt with a metal sleeve that is held into the 3d printed hold with a resin such as epoxy so you don't have that crushing effect in the plastics. this technique is used for fasters on dirt bike and ATV plastic body panels so they do not get crushed. 👍
at home you could use two screws plus optional glue to hold it. but unless it's staircase or something I bet u don't have enough room for a private wall but who knows, maybe side of your house edit: or yeah, textured wall instead of this smooth wood would prevent spinning but that's obvious
Could you plz tell me which 3D Printer I should buy? I am searching like about an year or so but I find a really good Printer and after some time google-ing and youtube search I find they are not good so... plz could you tell me which 3D Printer I should buy?
Carbon fiber is really useless for functional parts, it snaps way too easily. You need some form of textured nylon, maybe a modified nylon composite. PETg (which is t-glaze) is way too slick. The best I think is polycarbonate, but you need a heated bed. Try PC-Plus or PC-Max. Really strong and has a good texture
Mixed results are the best because you succeed but still learn something.
Conner Ingram Black Switch comes out in 3 days
Salman Yo!!! Boi nobody cares
Salman Yo!!! no it came out yesterday from today :3
Watermelon girl do you understand how time works?😂
Conner Ingram Black i
This is amazing as a route setter I've thought about how cool it would be to have a 3d printer in our gym so that if I wanted a certain hold or foot I could just print it out. Definitely going to look into 3d printing!
I love how no matter how many followers you gain, you stick with your own style in videos and stay true to what you want.
Yeah I also discovered CF filled filaments are a bit lame lol. For meshmixer few tips!!! When you delete an area you can just double click near the blue outline to automatically select all the surrounding triangles then do edit-erase and fill to clean it up, and with boolean operations I usually untick 'auto reduce result' if it's causing me problems, but the latest version is sooo much more stable. Try your next holds using the new 3D infill in slic3r :P
11:39 - whoops! Is that an editing mistake?
Actually, I think it's in AE.
Hey Devin! Love the video! Just a suggestion, imbedding a washer inside the hold where the bolt runs through could keep the bolt from pushing through the back when tightening it to the wall. Keep up the great work!
I gave you a thumbs up even though you referenced the ultimate solution at the end. Nice project!
Being a fellow rock climber I thoroughly enjoy these videos
I've watched quite a few your vids and instantly noticed these new sounds in the intro, it actually sounded quite nice :)
I need to find something new to say, but, again awesome video Devin i dont think ill ever get bored watching this channel, and i hope you make videos for a long time to come (as well as becoming a successful product designer) :)
Cool! That worked better than I had expected! For spinning, the simplest approach is to add one or two wood screws through the hold and into the wall well off center, but lots of gyms don't like additional holes in their walls, of course. Adding a sand-paper or sticky rubber backing would help - I wonder if you could melt coarse sand into the back face with the heat gun? For the bolt, first off use a thick washer so the holding force is more spread out. From there, the internal forces want to rip a conical section of the material out so doing the entire hold solid is a waste. (In yours, a cylinder ripped out only because that's how it printed, if it was solid and failed like that, it would have been a roughly 45 degree angled cone starting at the back face of the bolt and spreading wider towards the back of the hold.) Focus on making somewhat more than that 45 degree cone solid, and that will be a fairly efficient starting point.
I just wanted to say how much I love your channel. I love seeing the process behind designs random things and I am taking an engineering class at my high school and we use Inventor and I also have a cheap 3d printer so I can make my cool ideas. Your videos are so inspiring for new projects, keep up the great work!☺️
11:35 premiere error dialogue. You can disable that in the export menu :P
Man, you need to get some sleep, you're turning into a vampire
This is one of your coolest builds yet. I think it's up there in awesomeness with the spinning blow tops and the widget USB spinner.
i loved this video! i liked that you went out and tested it. i also love when you experiments and show us all of the steps!
carbon fiber filament sucks.This has been tested many times composite filaments are never as strong as the base material.
Might as well use regular pla or even better use PC also taulman 910 should be good
VenomTheCat Watch Thomas Sanladerer's video about baking PLA ! CF doesn't give good strength to parts, but it helps when baking parts, it allows then to shrink less according to ProtoPasta ! :)
I am not sure less shrinkage when baking printed parts justify the cost for carbon Fiber filled filament
Also un-baked pla parts are still way Stronger than annealed CF prints
please make something inventionous to store earplugs in....
Damn I'm so early!
Hey Devin, I really like your Easy shop, but I think one thing that could improve it (at least to me) would be if you put more useful little gadgets on there - practical things! Here are some ideas, though I know your time/money/patience is limited:
-Phone cases
-Clothes hooks
-Phone stands
-Laptop stands
-Pen holders
-Phone docks
-Cabinet handles/knobs
-Headphone hangers (stick to edge of desk)
-Odd shaped bottle caps (e.g. Kikkoman soy sauce tops)
There are many more I haven't thought of, but hopefully this can help you as I feel like you could have a lot of success selling these kinds of things which people need! Best of luck, Spike
(I posted this again because I don't think you saw it!)
Your family is full of beautiful people
I like to climb myself and I think this is a very cool project and I actually think it's pretty good that not everything worked out because this way you got to understand everything a bit better. ;)
Maddi Nar did you see what he did wrong when he was climbing
OMG DEVIN HAS A MUSTACHE
I have thought about this before, but I'm not a climber myself, so I didn't try it out... My idea was to print it mostly hollow and without any bottom layers and then fill it with a resin. (Epoxy resins are probably better, because PU tends to get hotter when curing) You could also use something like XTC3D as an epoxy coating to get better surface strength and even mix that with sand or something similar for more grip. Keep at it! :)
love that you tested them out. this was so awesome!
man i love your videos. Even though some times the project itself isint that interesting for me. your process is awesome(: thanks.
can you walk through the hardware you have in order to do this? I'm trying to get a similar setup going, but confused about the hardware that's required. thx for the video!
The smaller holds might have broken because theres less surface area for the pressure from the screw to be spread across (I'm no structural engineer, so don't flame me if I'm wrong). Definitely an awesome application of such an up-and-coming hobby though!
Could you print with a large washer in place on the back as structural support to prevent the material warping towards the screw boss in the wall?
You could design with a cutout for the washer then print up to the washer thickness, pause the print or have a "pause at z-height" and place the washer and have the remainder print with it integral to the part.
I would think having higher infill or even doing a manual infill around the bolt to further reinforce would reduce some of the distortion.
Great video, as always!
great vid as always, but more bad puns in descriptions please.
Why da faq are you here
Im 4 years late
I've been pretty interested it trying this too! I was going to go for either ColorFabb's XT-CF20 (XT filled with carbon fiber), or their HT material. Both materials have great layer bonding and general strength. I definitely think your testing showed a great deal of promise! I look forward to seeing how the continuation of this project goes for you.
This is seriously awesome!
Brilliant! thanks for sharing the process Devin! :-) :-) :-)
I actually love these videos! However i love seeing the sped up 3D print xD
11:37 Fuckin' Premiere xD
Lol
I would love a 3D printer but I'm on a small budget what would you suggest love you
The Monoprice Select Mini. It costs 200$ and it's a very reliable plug-n-play printer. It's very popular because it's such a good printer for such a low price.
MatthiasChristiaens Small build volume, but most people (me included) won't need more than the 120*120*120mm build volume. The select mini is definitely going to be my first 3d printer once I get the cash
c fahy The bed is large enough for modt prints I think but I personally prefer a larger printbed. I would go for the Select Mini if it weren't for the small print bed so I'm going to buy a Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus. This is what I would recommend if you want a larger build plate but as I said, the Mini's bed will suffice for most prints and is great for beginners.
Thanks for all the suggestions
Perfect Tomorrow one of those prusia i3 copy (cost up to 200 euro with printing bed and quite large printing space) or tronXY 3d printer (what I can say is that it looks a little bit more stable but smaller. but its basically metal beams that you can buy longer and make it bigger so yeah)
the larger one worked better perhaps because there was more surface area to distribute the weight / force being applied by the bolt. That or or could be that the carbon stuff like you discovered, is more brittle / not flexible.
To stop the spinning the back of the hold is ideally concave so that the outer edge of the hold (at the end of the "lever") is being held by more friction. Obviously this is hard to achieve without grinding a concave into the print after the fact. The simple solution for more grip might be hovering the part 1mm above the build plate and generating support (maybe even in TPU or similar?).
I think softer/more flexible plastics like ABS and PETG would work well because they would flex rather than just snap. Perhaps setting the slicer to print the first 7mm of bottom layers solid would make sense, and using a washer to increase more surface area for the bolt to press on.
Though for a tougher plastic maybe Polycarbonate is worth a look?
with the thermochromatic filament, put it in the freezer for a few mins, i found it sort of "resets"the colour and you get more of a colour change
The bigger one probably held better because of its bigger surface area. I'd love to see some more experimenting!
Awwwww your descriptions brought me back to when I lived in San Diego and going to La Jolla Shores ^w^
I'm sure someone has said this already, but some washers for the main mounting bolt combined with a counter spin hole with a metallic insert would be useful.
Have you thought about using an oven to bake climbing holds printed in PLA and afterwards maybe spraypainting it with something to add some grip?
just a quick tip when you use after effect's warp stabilizer. Try doing rolling shutter repair first to reduce the warpy effect and you can turn off warning to hide that unanalyzed frames
I am also an Climber and a tip just use the tip of your feet iT Will help a lot when you climb a hard route
That's so Awesome!
You are so damn creative!!
Dude! I love the new intro music!
awesome!! im currently making a load of wooden holds to take out into the woods and attach to trees whilst camping
I'm a simple guy: I see a new video of his, I press on the notification at the speed of light.
"We decided to try out my giant piece" ... ok then
I would NOT wanna end up slab grinding that hold 😂 looks grippy though
Devin, Can you do a review on the Anet A8 3d printer? as well as mentioning all the pros and cons of 3D printing.
I'll be reviewing the A2 very soon, which is pretty similar!
awesome :D
Technical question: why use only one bolt? Whenever anyone wants a bolted down thing not to rotate, they use two bolts and more.
i love the big hold
I love the VR videos!
How did the nozzle fair against using carbon fibre filament? its notorious for grinding out nozzles. Have you considered using the wood fill filament or poly carb? the wood fill would be perfect for this and has a surprising amount of strength (and has out preformed the carbon fibre in some tests). I love the giant knot hold and its a great shape for multiple orientations on a wall.
Nice shoes! Great brand :) also love your sisters!!
Cool new intro music! Did you make it yourself?
This is awesome!
Any chance you've got the model of that larger hold somewhere? Ha
I'm starting to make some holds for a friend's climbing wall and would love to try to print that one, make a mold from it, and pour a resin hold from it. I love the idea of trying to print holds to use themselves but just would rather have a bomber for sure than mess around a lot with filament choices.
I actually have no idea why I haven't shared these files yet, uploading now! mmf.io/makeanything
Thanks and good luck, a resin mold sounds like it could hold up better ;)
I like the new theme song
what if you had a cavity in the hold that you can pour resin into to strengthen the part even more..
I have been waiting on this video
Good to see these tested. What's the cost and time per hold?
I'd like to see you print/improve the Rambone slingshot.
ok i freaking love this
Didn't you get thermoplastic and duroplastic mixed up? thermoplastic materials get deformable under enough temperature and a duroplastic material doesn't, once it's fully cured. (sorry for rough translation, only use ther german words for it)
If you want it to stop it from slipping and rotating, why can't you use two screws? Is it for structural reasons or is it just cheaper?
As a climber i dont think i would ever climb on that hold
Who's watching in the last day of February
Salman Yo!!!
Me!
Salman Yo!!! I am
Legend of Zelda: breath of the wild comes out in 3 days :D
Salman Yo!!! Meh
Leon I KNOW RIGHT *SWITCH HYPE* !!!!!
Is the software hard to learn? If you print these with a cheap material and then make a silicone mold from them and pour resin as is the common way to make holds that would be awesome. I am just terrible with technology though. How much is that big printer you used?
Can you go back to using the old song?
11:37 whoops
This is amezing i love climbing and 3d printing is great.
How about using an over sized hole for the bolt with a metal sleeve that is held into the 3d printed hold with a resin such as epoxy so you don't have that crushing effect in the plastics. this technique is used for fasters on dirt bike and ATV plastic body panels so they do not get crushed. 👍
metal inserts could totally help!
Make Anything // 3D Printing Channel I look forward to seeing any results from future iterations!
This is cool im a 3D designer and was thinking it would be cool to do the same! How are you printing these? Is it your own printer? So cool man!
polyurethane = tpu = overpriced ninja flex
you climb at the factory? dude, you're hella local from me
Did you learn to add set screw holes these past 4yrs so they don't have to tighten the living daylights out of your holds till they fail.?
Hey, you're using the microphone you made in one of the last vids
I would rather fail repeatedly and learn what doesn't work than get lucky and have something work the first time.
Timothy Warner that's pretty generic.
put a washer in during print. (they do it also with the casts)
Great result man, we just have to improve the fixing and we'll have tons of pla holds 😃
ERMAGERD when will you announce the giveaway winners, Devin?! You're making me so goddamn anxious xD
around 4PM PST today!
you could probably use the same material like in usual holds..
Hey Devin, what model of 3D printer did you use and how expensive of a 3D printer would you need to make a wide variety of holds?
3d print a play button with metallic filament 😀😀
ARNOLD GODFRAY yasssssssssssssss!!!!
You should maybe consider trying polycarbonate filament. By the looks of it, it's really tough.
Makes me want to try out rock climbing.
Can't you set dimensions when you insert the bolt into the hold?
You should try the acetone trick on your next print
Cool holds
the song In all your videos, did you make it? it's really nice, can I get the name of it?
at home you could use two screws plus optional glue to hold it. but unless it's staircase or something I bet u don't have enough room for a private wall but who knows, maybe side of your house
edit: or yeah, textured wall instead of this smooth wood would prevent spinning but that's obvious
Wich Printer been you using? abd wich printer is cheap and good quality for starters at 3D printing
I thought the thumbnail was slime at first! Ha, I'm so glad it wasn't though! :)
SiliconeBunny even though silicone is technically hardened slime.
SiliconeBunny bet you are a cat fish.
Thats not nice lol why would I be a catfish for saying it looked like slime? You seem to think too highly of my appearance
You need holes for set screws
Hey I was wondering if you could make set of keyboard keys 😊and make them rainbow or purple ? Please I have been waiting to see if you would do it
Could you plz tell me which 3D Printer I should buy? I am searching like about an year or so but I find a really good Printer and after some time google-ing and youtube search I find they are not good so... plz could you tell me which 3D Printer I should buy?
Crythe if you go for cheap then prusia i3 copy or tronxy 3d printer
I want to go with a big build platform and not over 1500 bucks ...
Carbon fiber is really useless for functional parts, it snaps way too easily. You need some form of textured nylon, maybe a modified nylon composite. PETg (which is t-glaze) is way too slick. The best I think is polycarbonate, but you need a heated bed. Try PC-Plus or PC-Max. Really strong and has a good texture
The factory is a cool gym. I've been there before