I ended up turning my X5SA into a Voron Trident. The X5SA is a good platform to modify it gives you great print volume for the money. If you want to go faster though, the belt pulley mounts are just too flexible. The VZBot upgrade really fixes the belt path and adds linear rails for the gantry. I suggest building that before going Klipper.
Print some braces if you start pushing it. I installed Klipper on mine and quickly realized the sensor for bed leveling is crap. I would do a bed leveling in klipper and get a change of .3 mm every time even though I wasn't changing anything at all. Also, the rods for the bed pull the extrusions down bending them giving you convex bed. Make sure you put the washers in there between the rods and the frame.
If your good at figuring things out and enjoy tinkering, then yes, well worth it. If your looking for a machine that just works and that's all you want, then no, it's not a machine for you.
Just built a X5SA and im finding the Firmware terrible, Besides the lacking of major things like PID tuning, a save settings option, esteps configuration, Baby stepping Z doesn't adjust immediately like the old enders, it loses the Z offset between prints very easily , mine came with glass plate, I thinks its not the best surface for the sensor they provide. both the stock heartbreak and nozzle broke in the first tightening (worst metal than any replacements bought on ALiexpress) Noticed that in order to have the nozzle on the desired position , the mk8 style hotend requires the heartbreak to be too much off the radiator increasing a lot the chances of bending on any impact .. I was not expecting a great stock printer anyway... but Is it possible to compile firmware for these boards ( CXY-446-V10-220413) with GD32F427 Arm chip , and keep using the fancy screen? Is klipper the solution for theses machines? ( Is there any problem with the ribbon cable plug extender thing? ) Can the sensor be replaced by a BLtouch or anything else ? If so how to connect the 2 missing wires from 5 used in BL touch ?
Sorry your having problems. I got rid of the glass and went to a PEI magnetic build plate. Big plus. I'm not having any issues with the software on mine. Make sure your timing belts are nice and snug. Some suggest to remove the top leadscrew holder but lm not having any problems with mine. Don't give up you'll get there. I'm going to install the pad 7 "when I get it figured out" and replacing the X,Y with linear rails for more stability.
@@bobreichel Well I'm not having problems with the machine itself but with the firmware. And those mentioned minor quality problems ( no problem for me, since I have nice stock of 3D printer parts) As soon as I get it working with marlin, some upgrades will be done ( either it gets a BL touch or a non glass bed... Something will need to be done regarding Z axis, Maybe I will start with POM lead Nuts , maybe a Z with a belt system, and ending up with Linear rails, direct drive with a decent extruder At the moment i've compiled marlin firmware for it , but i'm having trouble flashing it Are you using the stock board and firmware ?
Yes, I am using the software that came with it. Im not sure why yours isn't working properly my issue was the glass bed not being flat. My z axes works fine. I want to upgrade it to use klipper. Other than that I'm quite satisfied with my unit.
@@bobreichel I would be happy if it was possible with the original board , but i'm finding it impossible to flash anything in the CXY-446-v10-220413 board. I refuse to use the stock firmware, where I cant even make a PID tune , change Esteps or simply get the same Z offset between prints
I ended up turning my X5SA into a Voron Trident. The X5SA is a good platform to modify it gives you great print volume for the money. If you want to go faster though, the belt pulley mounts are just too flexible. The VZBot upgrade really fixes the belt path and adds linear rails for the gantry. I suggest building that before going Klipper.
Print some braces if you start pushing it. I installed Klipper on mine and quickly realized the sensor for bed leveling is crap. I would do a bed leveling in klipper and get a change of .3 mm every time even though I wasn't changing anything at all. Also, the rods for the bed pull the extrusions down bending them giving you convex bed. Make sure you put the washers in there between the rods and the frame.
I love my tronxy x5sa pro and I'm doing modifications to print peek
Corner brackets realy improve the quality of higher prints
To level the bed manually, you need a different tool: a clock sensor and print some mount for it
If your good at figuring things out and enjoy tinkering, then yes, well worth it. If your looking for a machine that just works and that's all you want, then no, it's not a machine for you.
Appreciate the reply I have 3 fully working printers looking for a more in-depth project this sounds great!
Worth the purchase? I’m looking at the X5SA 400 Pro only about 300 after taxes with some discounts I have
In my opinion, yes
Just built a X5SA and im finding the Firmware terrible, Besides the lacking of major things like PID tuning, a save settings option, esteps configuration, Baby stepping Z doesn't adjust immediately like the old enders, it loses the Z offset between prints very easily , mine came with glass plate, I thinks its not the best surface for the sensor they provide. both the stock heartbreak and nozzle broke in the first tightening (worst metal than any replacements bought on ALiexpress)
Noticed that in order to have the nozzle on the desired position , the mk8 style hotend requires the heartbreak to be too much off the radiator increasing a lot the chances of bending on any impact ..
I was not expecting a great stock printer anyway... but Is it possible to compile firmware for these boards ( CXY-446-V10-220413) with GD32F427 Arm chip , and keep using the fancy screen?
Is klipper the solution for theses machines? ( Is there any problem with the ribbon cable plug extender thing? )
Can the sensor be replaced by a BLtouch or anything else ? If so how to connect the 2 missing wires from 5 used in BL touch ?
Sorry your having problems. I got rid of the glass and went to a PEI magnetic build plate. Big plus. I'm not having any issues with the software on mine. Make sure your timing belts are nice and snug. Some suggest to remove the top leadscrew holder but lm not having any problems with mine. Don't give up you'll get there. I'm going to install the pad 7 "when I get it figured out" and replacing the X,Y with linear rails for more stability.
@@bobreichel Well I'm not having problems with the machine itself but with the firmware. And those mentioned minor quality problems ( no problem for me, since I have nice stock of 3D printer parts) As soon as I get it working with marlin, some upgrades will be done ( either it gets a BL touch or a non glass bed... Something will need to be done regarding Z axis, Maybe I will start with POM lead Nuts , maybe a Z with a belt system, and ending up with Linear rails, direct drive with a decent extruder
At the moment i've compiled marlin firmware for it , but i'm having trouble flashing it
Are you using the stock board and firmware ?
Yes, I am using the software that came with it. Im not sure why yours isn't working properly my issue was the glass bed not being flat. My z axes works fine. I want to upgrade it to use klipper. Other than that I'm quite satisfied with my unit.
@@bobreichel I would be happy if it was possible with the original board , but i'm finding it impossible to flash anything in the CXY-446-v10-220413 board. I refuse to use the stock firmware, where I cant even make a PID tune , change Esteps or simply get the same Z offset between prints
That is why I'm going to attach the pad 7. It has a 7" screen and full blown klipper.