Great video. I willing to bet you're having injector pump issues because it is being fuel starved. Once I saw your lift pump output on the video it all made sense. The "exploded" fuel shutoff solenoid is a indicator of the low LP pressure. The shut off's become pretty hot, but are cooled by the return fuel from the injectors. Since your lift pump pressure it low, the top end of your IP never fills up because the pump takes all the fuel. Get a good carter LP and I guarantee you'll get much more life out of your DB2. Good luck!
I was thinking the same. Heard that the poor factory lift pumps eventually cause the injection pumps to fail on these Detroit diesels that GM didn't do justice.
It's not the injector pumps that suck on these GM diesel trucks. They're actually fine from what I've heard. It's the weak lift pumps they furnished these trucks with that cause the injector pumps to fail. Detroit Diesel designed a really good power plant to begin with and then GM cheaped out and furnished them with under-dimensioned components all around until they were basically transformed into something quite unreliable. For one thing, the lift pumps on these don't move enough fuel to supply the injector pumps with enough to run properly. So the IPs break down way ahead of time due to that. Getting a proper LP rated for these types of engines is one of the first and most important upgrades people tend to perform on their 6.2/6.5s. I compiled a sort of upgrade list that might be useful. I'm not an expert or anything but I've been researching the 6.5 turbo diesel a lot lately. Maybe this could help you or someone, I hope! What I've learned so far is that these seem to be the most critical components that need replacement/upgrading to make these engines really reliable: 1. Pump Mounted Driver (PMD) relocation (on 94 and newer, with electronic engine control) 2. Lift pump (People say the marine pumps are the way to go?) 3. Harmonic balancer (Fluidampr) 4. Main belt pulley (Leroy Diesel) 5. Fuel filter (I think you did that one already. Otherwise FASS makes good stuff. I think they also do a kit with a proper LP included) 6. Cooling. Duramax radiator fan, stronger water pump, etc 7. Some people say to get rid of the vacuum pump altogether because they apparently suck and will fail and cause issues along the drive belt. 8. Oil cooling hoses, because factory ones apparently break down easily. Other things to do that might not be as critical but makes them run better/more reliable would be things like this: 1. Intake/Exhaust upgrades 2. Headbolts ---> head studs (Quadstar Tuning ARP) 3. Injection pre-cup upgrade 4. Forged crankshaft, like Detroit intended (instead of the much weaker cast metal shafts that GM put in them) At Leroy Diesel's home page they say something similar to what I've compiled here. They're the experts, not me, but I thought I'd share what I've gathered from a bunch of people here on YT. leroydiesel.com/
I have a 96 6.5 your list is really good I'm doing a lot of these upgrades now. I just replaced the balancer and vac pump. I'll see how lo g they last. I'll get a fluid dampener next and see how long the vac pump lasts this time
What everyone needs to realize is that the average 6.2 & 6.5 diesel is 30+ years old. Sometimes, it's older than the person who owns it. Rarely does an engine last that long in an everyday driver.
The best think you can put in your fuel for lubricity is biodiesel... its better than any additive. there have been some people that did lubricity testing on it and a about 10-15 additives and it came out on top.
changed my injection pump along with everything else there is to replace under the hood ..$thousands of dollars later it runs way better now but its still shutting down on me on the road. changed the PMD to the fire wall new fuel relay ,turbo and manual waist gate new injectors and lines....I'm beyond frustrated...hope yours doesn't let you down!!!!
Would have been super helpful if the companies that supply aftermarket stuff for our diesels would have made 2 piece fuel lines for these trucks. Would have made injector changes super easy
Looking like you got your pump from Oregon Fuel Injection. Good choice. I've had mine from them in my rig for over 8 sun cycles (years) and never a problem.
I put Marvel Mystery Oil in every other fill up. Mine runs great. I’ll be replacing my pump with a built one from Classic Diesel Designs! They sell built DB2’s for all kinds of power ranges.
what do you do if you have a electric injection pump and you put the manual injection pump. Do you have to do any upgrades to the 4160e transmission to work?
Mine is a 6.2 but it looks pretty much like yours. Mine sounds just like yours after bleeding the system. but it might just need a injection pump, but it rans good for 1000s of miles then does the air in the system again, I bleed it then it goes for another 1000 or so miles.
You are off on your years. 1992 and 1993 are the two years of a 6.5 turbo diesel with mechanical injection pump. I’m needing to rebuild the engine in my 1992 and it needs a pump while I’m in it. Did you need to get the special tool to adjust the pump or were you able to do it by hand easily enough?
93 wasn’t the only year for the mechanical pump and turbo. I’m having similar issues with my 92. Sporadic wide open throttle to a dead idle while driving. Although it hasn’t shut off yet, I am scared to take it farther then I want to walk until it is resolved. After watching your video I’m pretty certain now it’s definitely the pump. Which only has a disheartening 72k miles on it. I think it’s just junk parts, quality, craftsmanship now days.
Great video. I willing to bet you're having injector pump issues because it is being fuel starved. Once I saw your lift pump output on the video it all made sense. The "exploded" fuel shutoff solenoid is a indicator of the low LP pressure. The shut off's become pretty hot, but are cooled by the return fuel from the injectors. Since your lift pump pressure it low, the top end of your IP never fills up because the pump takes all the fuel. Get a good carter LP and I guarantee you'll get much more life out of your DB2. Good luck!
I was thinking the same. Heard that the poor factory lift pumps eventually cause the injection pumps to fail on these Detroit diesels that GM didn't do justice.
It's not the injector pumps that suck on these GM diesel trucks.
They're actually fine from what I've heard. It's the weak lift pumps they furnished these trucks with that cause the injector pumps to fail. Detroit Diesel designed a really good power plant to begin with and then GM cheaped out and furnished them with under-dimensioned components all around until they were basically transformed into something quite unreliable. For one thing, the lift pumps on these don't move enough fuel to supply the injector pumps with enough to run properly. So the IPs break down way ahead of time due to that. Getting a proper LP rated for these types of engines is one of the first and most important upgrades people tend to perform on their 6.2/6.5s. I compiled a sort of upgrade list that might be useful. I'm not an expert or anything but I've been researching the 6.5 turbo diesel a lot lately. Maybe this could help you or someone, I hope!
What I've learned so far is that these seem to be the most critical components that need replacement/upgrading to make these engines really reliable:
1. Pump Mounted Driver (PMD) relocation (on 94 and newer, with electronic engine control)
2. Lift pump (People say the marine pumps are the way to go?)
3. Harmonic balancer (Fluidampr)
4. Main belt pulley (Leroy Diesel)
5. Fuel filter (I think you did that one already. Otherwise FASS makes good stuff. I think they also do a kit with a proper LP included)
6. Cooling. Duramax radiator fan, stronger water pump, etc
7. Some people say to get rid of the vacuum pump altogether because they apparently suck and will fail and cause issues along the drive belt.
8. Oil cooling hoses, because factory ones apparently break down easily.
Other things to do that might not be as critical but makes them run better/more reliable would be things like this:
1. Intake/Exhaust upgrades
2. Headbolts ---> head studs (Quadstar Tuning ARP)
3. Injection pre-cup upgrade
4. Forged crankshaft, like Detroit intended (instead of the much weaker cast metal shafts that GM put in them)
At Leroy Diesel's home page they say something similar to what I've compiled here.
They're the experts, not me, but I thought I'd share what I've gathered from a bunch of people here on YT.
leroydiesel.com/
I have a 96 6.5 your list is really good I'm doing a lot of these upgrades now. I just replaced the balancer and vac pump. I'll see how lo g they last. I'll get a fluid dampener next and see how long the vac pump lasts this time
Getting ready to change the pump on my 93 great video.
What everyone needs to realize is that the average 6.2 & 6.5 diesel is 30+ years old. Sometimes, it's older than the person who owns it. Rarely does an engine last that long in an everyday driver.
Great video! Thanks for taking the time to make such an informative tutorial!!
You need a bleed valve at the top of your cat fuel filter housing. You have air in your fuel system.
The best think you can put in your fuel for lubricity is biodiesel... its better than any additive. there have been some people that did lubricity testing on it and a about 10-15 additives and it came out on top.
What happens if you drop one of those injection pump bolts down in the timing gear cover ?
changed my injection pump along with everything else there is to replace under the hood ..$thousands of dollars later it runs way better now but its still shutting down on me on the road. changed the PMD to the fire wall new fuel relay ,turbo and manual waist gate new injectors and lines....I'm beyond frustrated...hope yours doesn't let you down!!!!
Would have been super helpful if the companies that supply aftermarket stuff for our diesels would have made 2 piece fuel lines for these trucks. Would have made injector changes super easy
Looking like you got your pump from Oregon Fuel Injection. Good choice. I've had mine from them in my rig for over 8 sun cycles (years) and never a problem.
I put Marvel Mystery Oil in every other fill up. Mine runs great. I’ll be replacing my pump with a built one from Classic Diesel Designs! They sell built DB2’s for all kinds of power ranges.
what do you do if you have a electric injection pump and you put the manual injection pump. Do you have to do any upgrades to the 4160e transmission to work?
Mine is a 6.2 but it looks pretty much like yours. Mine sounds just like yours after bleeding the system. but it might just need a injection pump, but it rans good for 1000s of miles then does the air in the system again, I bleed it then it goes for another 1000 or so miles.
The engineers that put those Allen bolts in there 😳
Sulfur in the fuel add a little 2 stroke to your fuel 1oz per gallon
You are off on your years. 1992 and 1993 are the two years of a 6.5 turbo diesel with mechanical injection pump. I’m needing to rebuild the engine in my 1992 and it needs a pump while I’m in it. Did you need to get the special tool to adjust the pump or were you able to do it by hand easily enough?
I didn't need any special tools to adjust the pump I was able to just turn it by hand after loosening the bolts
very informative bro.
I see starter fluid will not work if injection pump is not good
Don’t rotate engine once the pump is out…………immediately rotates engine 😂😂😂😂
Great video, thanks for sharing all the info good job 👍🏼👍🏼
👍👍
93 wasn’t the only year for the mechanical pump and turbo. I’m having similar issues with my 92. Sporadic wide open throttle to a dead idle while driving. Although it hasn’t shut off yet, I am scared to take it farther then I want to walk until it is resolved. After watching your video I’m pretty certain now it’s definitely the pump. Which only has a disheartening 72k miles on it. I think it’s just junk parts, quality, craftsmanship now days.
So easy acces compared to my express with absolutely no room
it's a 1998 gmc 2500
❤