Great overview of the topic, thanks! Viewers might like to know about BONDERITE M-CR ALCRM1200BR AERO (aka Alocrom 1200 Brush) which is "Designed [for] ...where dipping is not practicable". It's in stock at LAS Aero under the mnfctr P/n MP0082, and at Silmid in the UK and USA under Silmid's P/n: ALO12LQ2KG (I've no affiliation with either company). Same hazmat / UK/EU REACH SVHC (substances of very high concern) regulations apply. For disposal, I found a local surface coatings company willing to take my waste in an appropriate container, which they kindly informed me where to purchase. Unfortunately they were unable to dip anything as large as wing spars, never mind ribs.
In all seriousness - nice debrief on the corrosion protection. I went down the path of not doing anything at all because I'm in CO for starters. The 6061 for the second and I spent a good 45 min chatting with the Corrosion X guys at Oshkosh last year - I'm sold. The corrosion proofing you're doing is going to add time for sure - but living in FL - yeah, I don't blame you a bit. I WANTED to do it - but ugh... I wanted to get done more than that and I'm very comfortable with the durability of Corrosion X. I'm over on FirstRivet, saw you subscribe. You're going into this with exactly the same energy I have, so you're going to be blown away with how well this goes together - I know I am. I expected it to - but I expect to be on the mains here before mid-May assuming I get my control tubes done over the next few days (that's a pain). So if I'm on the mains by mid-May that means from start of the build 8/21 to 5/22 - what - 10 months to that point? Engine is due around that time.. Be careful on that Milwaukee rivet gun. I have the same one and I found the 142 rivets will get jammed in the shaft after a while. You have to dissassemble the whole thing to get to the shaft and then find something very narrow and hard to force them out. So my rule on anything smaller than the 153 rivets is to verify each spent shaft exits the gun before pulling the next one. When you get into the target rivets it's not a huge deal. Anyway - I'm on the Sling Pilots form and Instagram if you want to try to reach out somehow... Of course there is Oshkosh... :D
I’m excited to finally get started after the year long wait. I’ve gone back in forth on the rivet gun but will stick with what I have for now. Keep up the videos, I like seeing where I’m headed.
I’ve tried with a few automotive primers around here. I’m far away from the US and EU and shipping would require special hazmat rates for pretty much everything even simple rattle cans. Found a great 2k self etching primer that just mixes 1:1 and has the perfect spraying consistency, no need for thinners. Dries in a few minutes, sandable and cheap. Cleaning the gun with simple acetone. Pays off to play around with a few option before you build. Some of the stuff that sounded great on paper was a b… to work with and I never got smooth results.
I have a buddy that owns a automotive paint supply store and he recommended using a 2k primer as well which I will probably use for the interior pieces where I will be top coating.
Great video. You cover everything and speak clearly. Thanks. I’d like to see your plane in some video. I’m working on my old Southbend heavy 10 lathe. It’s mostly cast iron but there are some aluminum parts as well. I’m using a high fill epoxy primer but need to treat these aluminum parts first. Do you know how to alodine these parts without spending $100 on chemicals? Thanks, Paul
I haven’t found these chemicals anywhere for cheap and I’ve looked. The other issue is the prep chemical is an acid and is a hazardous material and they add cost to the shipping.
I’ve seen the PVC pipe method a couple of places but decided against it for now. I could make those or bigger tanks but it would have to be in my hangar to keep from taking up any more space in my garage. I’ll see how the priming goes and may adjust .
You may have seen this, but I saw where somebody used a split section of pvc pipe as a container to Alodine some of the longer pieces. Still haven’t decided what I’m doing but leaning towards alodining what I can.
@aviationkidbuilder, Would you mind letting me know where you bought the Bonderite Alumi Prep from? I couldn't find online store that sells gallon BONDERITE C-IC 33 AERO. If they have one, shipping charge is way high.
I think I bought it from a place call Sky Geek. It’s a hazardous material so it has to ship by ground and have documentation with the shipper or something. No one has cheap shipping on this stuff, believe me I looked.
If you prep the aluminum prior to applying alodine, the acid wash will remove most corrosion. If you have heavy corrosion I would remove it prior to applying alodine by sanding prior to the acid wash. I’m not sure if alodine would prevent existing corrosion from getting worse since I’ve only treated new and corrosion free aluminum so far.
Hazmat facility for the alodine. I let it reduce down by evaporation first then seal it up in jugs and take it to my county hazmat disposal section at the landfill. The acid you can neutralize first then do the same. Make sure you have such a site available before you start down this path. You do NOT want to dispose of the improperly, it’s bad stuff if it gets into groundwater.
@@aviationkitbuilder I know. I’m debating easiest route and just prime I’m in a condo and only have a 1 car garage. Don’t know what to do. I’ll do some research to see if there are larger spray cans where I can just spray the parts.
@@PortCharlotteAlex Skip them both and plan to absolutely treat with Corrosion X once the plane is finished. It will save a lot of time and effort since you don’t have the space. You can get a case of primer all at once to get a better price maybe and just prime locations of metal on metal as a compromise.
Wow - stepping right off into the religious battle on your fifth video... that's quite bold.
Great content, I am in Bradenton and going through this thought process here at this time.
Great overview of the topic, thanks! Viewers might like to know about BONDERITE M-CR ALCRM1200BR AERO (aka Alocrom 1200 Brush) which is "Designed [for] ...where dipping is not practicable". It's in stock at LAS Aero under the mnfctr P/n MP0082, and at Silmid in the UK and USA under Silmid's P/n: ALO12LQ2KG (I've no affiliation with either company).
Same hazmat / UK/EU REACH SVHC (substances of very high concern) regulations apply. For disposal, I found a local surface coatings company willing to take my waste in an appropriate container, which they kindly informed me where to purchase. Unfortunately they were unable to dip anything as large as wing spars, never mind ribs.
In all seriousness - nice debrief on the corrosion protection. I went down the path of not doing anything at all because I'm in CO for starters. The 6061 for the second and I spent a good 45 min chatting with the Corrosion X guys at Oshkosh last year - I'm sold. The corrosion proofing you're doing is going to add time for sure - but living in FL - yeah, I don't blame you a bit. I WANTED to do it - but ugh... I wanted to get done more than that and I'm very comfortable with the durability of Corrosion X.
I'm over on FirstRivet, saw you subscribe. You're going into this with exactly the same energy I have, so you're going to be blown away with how well this goes together - I know I am. I expected it to - but I expect to be on the mains here before mid-May assuming I get my control tubes done over the next few days (that's a pain). So if I'm on the mains by mid-May that means from start of the build 8/21 to 5/22 - what - 10 months to that point? Engine is due around that time..
Be careful on that Milwaukee rivet gun. I have the same one and I found the 142 rivets will get jammed in the shaft after a while. You have to dissassemble the whole thing to get to the shaft and then find something very narrow and hard to force them out. So my rule on anything smaller than the 153 rivets is to verify each spent shaft exits the gun before pulling the next one. When you get into the target rivets it's not a huge deal.
Anyway - I'm on the Sling Pilots form and Instagram if you want to try to reach out somehow... Of course there is Oshkosh... :D
I’m excited to finally get started after the year long wait. I’ve gone back in forth on the rivet gun but will stick with what I have for now. Keep up the videos, I like seeing where I’m headed.
@@aviationkitbuilder oh yeah. I wasn’t suggesting bailing on the gun. I’m still using mine.
I’ve tried with a few automotive primers around here. I’m far away from the US and EU and shipping would require special hazmat rates for pretty much everything even simple rattle cans. Found a great 2k self etching primer that just mixes 1:1 and has the perfect spraying consistency, no need for thinners. Dries in a few minutes, sandable and cheap. Cleaning the gun with simple acetone. Pays off to play around with a few option before you build. Some of the stuff that sounded great on paper was a b… to work with and I never got smooth results.
I have a buddy that owns a automotive paint supply store and he recommended using a 2k primer as well which I will probably use for the interior pieces where I will be top coating.
Great video. You cover everything and speak clearly. Thanks. I’d like to see your plane in some video.
I’m working on my old Southbend heavy 10 lathe. It’s mostly cast iron but there are some aluminum parts as well. I’m using a high fill epoxy primer but need to treat these aluminum parts first. Do you know how to alodine these parts without spending $100 on chemicals?
Thanks,
Paul
I haven’t found these chemicals anywhere for cheap and I’ve looked. The other issue is the prep chemical is an acid and is a hazardous material and they add cost to the shipping.
I’ve seen the PVC pipe method a couple of places but decided against it for now. I could make those or bigger tanks but it would have to be in my hangar to keep from taking up any more space in my garage. I’ll see how the priming goes and may adjust .
You may have seen this, but I saw where somebody used a split section of pvc pipe as a container to Alodine some of the longer pieces. Still haven’t decided what I’m doing but leaning towards alodining what I can.
@aviationkidbuilder, Would you mind letting me know where you bought the Bonderite Alumi Prep from? I couldn't find online store that sells gallon BONDERITE C-IC 33 AERO. If they have one, shipping charge is way high.
I think I bought it from a place call Sky Geek. It’s a hazardous material so it has to ship by ground and have documentation with the shipper or something. No one has cheap shipping on this stuff, believe me I looked.
Whats your experiences with putting alodine to already corrode parts..does it come back through? Or slow down the process?
If you prep the aluminum prior to applying alodine, the acid wash will remove most corrosion. If you have heavy corrosion I would remove it prior to applying alodine by sanding prior to the acid wash. I’m not sure if alodine would prevent existing corrosion from getting worse since I’ve only treated new and corrosion free aluminum so far.
Looking at doing this to my alloy 5m boat..wondering best way of applying with out being able to dip such large area...just brush on?
You can brush on both the acid prep solution and the bonderite itself. You just don’t dilute it.
Thankyou
Question how are you supposed to dispose of the used Alodine and other chems?
Hazmat facility for the alodine. I let it reduce down by evaporation first then seal it up in jugs and take it to my county hazmat disposal section at the landfill. The acid you can neutralize first then do the same. Make sure you have such a site available before you start down this path. You do NOT want to dispose of the improperly, it’s bad stuff if it gets into groundwater.
@@aviationkitbuilder I know. I’m debating easiest route and just prime I’m in a condo and only have a 1 car garage. Don’t know what to do. I’ll do some research to see if there are larger spray cans where I can just spray the parts.
@@PortCharlotteAlex Skip them both and plan to absolutely treat with Corrosion X once the plane is finished. It will save a lot of time and effort since you don’t have the space. You can get a case of primer all at once to get a better price maybe and just prime locations of metal on metal as a compromise.
@@aviationkitbuilder that’s the route I’ll take. Thank you. Truly appreciate the input.