Hi Dom I have poured leaf for fixing iron work and grandpa showed me how this process was done on steam engines. A acid was used to clean the iron work, I guess like modern flux, then the lead mix would be poured in. I think your on the right track good luck with it.
Keep at it Dom. Who has never tried to do something they are unsure of? It’s essential we follow that inquisitive nature to develop learning. Loved the fixing of the cast part. I’ve often wondered how such a fix was done. Many thanks, Wayne
Ah; my weekly engineering fix completed. Another fascinating and instructive video Dom. An added bonus too; of an insight into some of your future plans for expanding your enterprise. It will be great following progress!
Well done for showing all the "didn't go quite right" moments, we can all learn from that and it shows that engineering can be fraught with hazards and uncertainties👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I found an old flannel bedsheet that I was going to cut up into rags, was rather handy for mopping up the overflowing coolant. I think most of us have done the same when first setting up a Colchester. The tank sat inside is considerably smaller than would first be expected looking at the size of the lathe. Wrapping cast iron in an old fire blanket helps slow the cooling process down nicely.
Well done Dom, your slowly getting there, if you spill any more coolant , don’t use a mop, use a spade or shovel and pour it into a bowl or something, that’s what we do at work, 👍👍.
Fine work, Experts on tinning cast iron I guess are few , used special fluxes but only tiny areas/ I agree, probably not wetted origionally. fixed the clicky knee on new bridgeport and adjusted x y backlash .
You have the right attitude here, have a go, if it fails you get experience, if it works you make a note of what you did! I would be very surprised if you were able to tin cast iron! I really cannot see the need to as the babbit will go into and small depressions in the casting and prevent movement of the bush, if you want to make it extra locked you can machine radial grooves in the housing, and providing to casting is heated up before you pour the babbit it will form a mechanical bond, good luck! Chris B.
I enjoyed watching that Dom. It was interesting watching you solve the problems you encountered. I always enjoyed fixing my problems, it's very satisfying. As for things in the oven, I've lost count of the times I've put my bike/car spark plugs in to warm them or dry them. Have a good week Dom and thanks for filming it all.👍🙂
Hello Dominic! I have been watching really interesting your videos . I have Ranalah too . I bought at in England couple years ago . It was poor condition.The problem was that it wasn’t lined up with upper and lower wheel (machine was fall down some age ) and the upper wheels axle was bended . We managed straighten the axle without melt and renew the axle. The machinist told me that the axle were not been tinned ,even it looks like so . He mentioned that substance what they been used that time is not shrinking is it spreading . He dosen’t remenber the special substance name but he said that metallurigies use that nowsdays also.
Thank you Dom for the Ranalah update. Coming along nicely. To bad about the crack, however it looks like the crack may have been repaired. Looking forward to more progress updates!! Cheers
A lot of people call brazing welding, it isn't! Welding is melting the parent metals together, brazing is using a bras or bronze filler which joins the two metals without changing the structure of the metals to be joined. You could try Bakers fluid which is a hydrochloric acid based flux when tinning the cast iron. Cheers, Matthew
i used to be a plumber and one thing i found to my cost at first was not allowing the carbon from the blow torch flame near anything i was soldering , always heat a joint up away from the soldering area and wait untill the flux starts boiling before you put any solder near it , wiping a lead joint is done more subtly and a lot less heat is required , at least your learning and we are learning from your mistakes too ;)
I think you did well getting that old cast iron to tin. One of the most active fluxes that you can use is Killed Spirits or Bakers Fluid. I also think the old lead solder is a lot better than the new lead free stuff.
Wow. I am impressed. Your satisfaction when you were successful with the Babbitt was lovely to see. It seemed like that period was a real learning session. All the best with your enterprise.
Over filling the Colchester coolant tank is part of the initiation process. You can add an overflow pipe to that finger hole, and run it to a tray at the front to give yourself a bit of a back up.
Pretty nasty stuff but it does the business, I think it's got hydrochloric acid in as the cleaning medium but I cant be sure now. It's a long time since i last used it but if you do Dom wear a very good filter mask or ever a pumped air helmet as the fumes are bloody awful lol
Hi Dom, Lots of little bits, but as always you get over them , don't forget slow and take your time, it's all coming together, stay safe , All the best Brian 😃
I wonder if a cylinder Hone would work? IDK, just a thought, thanks for sharing, I love watching people saving history like this. EDIT: well i stayed till the end, glad you got it!
Parts in the oven, walnut tumbling media(bagged...) in the washing machine & maggots(fishing bait) in the fridge. There are many advantages to terminating the idea of shared living space. 😁
Mask 👍👍👍 Fume extractor system please.! We protect eyes fingers (and jumpers!) - so look after those lungs as well! You're doing a great job - thank you!
Tinning cast iron is very, very hard, pickling in Sulfuric acid helps. Are you sure it was tinned originally though. Normally if there's knobbles and lumps welded or cast on, it's more a structural bond than a chemical one they depend on. I've done a lot of white metal (Babbit) bearings in my time, working for a firm who specialise in casting and machining vintage car bearings. And when there where knobbles, there was no tinning. Also, is there a reason your using Babbit? I would have assumed the original would have been cheaper lead. Keep up the good work, it's lovely seeing the old tools brought back to life.
That’s really interesting, knobbles and bumps are all there on the parts, I assume the rough surface of the casting inside the holes helps too.. It doesn’t seem like any of the originals I’ve taken apart were tinned, I’m just trying to do the best job possible Thank you for sharing your knowledge
Interested to know why you chose to TIG weld over bronze brazing? I think that brazing introduces less/ more even heat and I have had good results brazing cast iron.
Great stuff Dom. For the interior face tinning, I was thinking you could try one of those honing tools that look like berries in a stick. It would do a better job of refacing the surface than a wire wheel. Good luck.
Hello Dom, An enjoyable video, thank you... Good to see the tinning got done, well done... I am not sure if you are aware of Keith Ruckers channel as he has done quite a few restorations with babbitt bearings. See you next Sunday... Take care. Paul,,
Love the Ranalah journey Dom. Don’t forget to turn the Ranalah sign on when talking about it 👌. Don’t know if your into antique cone rollers but there’s one for sale in Crewe on FBM.
I have done repairs on old tin items ( a Dutch style kids doll house 60's ), it looked a breeze to re-solder, I too wire bushed etc etc but all that seemed to do was spread a grey coating all over the area as if a coating built up on the tin and abrasion just seemed to spread it not remove it even though it looked shiny and clean. The only way I could get the metal to tin was a Dremel with grind stone, when down to the bare metal it soldered like a dream until then I couldn't even reflow the existing joints. I've never seen tinning paste like that but when it comes to solder I always use lead based these modern leadless ones are very sticky and hard to work I find. For electrical solder I prefer lead/tin 3% silver
Excellent work, Dom. I remember the solder paste from a brief foray into lead loading. Good stuff. I will watch with interest when you do the babbitt pour. I don't know if you are familiar but Keith Rucker has featured babbitt pours a few times in his videos. I could sense your excitement at the end there, that's just the way it is sometimes. All the best, Mart in Solihull.
I would suggest that tinning may not achieve much. The rule with electrical soldered joints is that you should never rely on solder for mechanical strength, it's just for good electrical contact. If you can somehow roughen up or groove the inner surface that may be a better way of stopping the insert moving.
I was going to suggest one of those drum shaped sanding flap wheel things on a drill but glad the wire wheel on a drill did the trick. Did you do the finish to the crack repair with braze? Looked brassy to me. Top work as ever 👍
@@busman2000 It's never wise to weld cast iron the heat of fusion creates brittle carbides adjacent to the weld line. As inferred, far better to use a lower temperature "brazed" joint as it's quite strong enough without carbide enbrittled zones.
Absolutely outstanding! Your skills are off the scale, your passion gives me butterflies, your humility is only exceeded by your intelligence. Thank you very much. Regards Gareth Wiltshire UK. Gratitude. Quality. Respect.
Hi Dom ive just started watching your channel & i thi k its brilliant all the thinks you get up to in your workshop is right up my street mate 😁 im an engineer by trade & like nothing better than repairing & fixing up things to so we've got a lot in common btw ive just watched your video on the "bridgeport" haven't seen one of those for ages last time i used one was at college as part of my apprenticeship.
Great work Dom. Keep showing the mistakes. Nobody believes it when everything works perfectly 😁 Are you going to covered the “Tinned” parts to keep them clean ?
Great effort. I don't want to be all nanny but with all those fumes and smoke especially if they contain lead some kind of fume extraction/ filtering would be a wise move!
Acute lead poisoning is truly scary stuff & Dom will definitely need to use precautions if he winds up doing these procedures often. Interestingly enough, even low-level lead inhalation is suspected of causing all kinds of weird damage... The drop in U.S. murder rates between the 1980's & 2000's, for example, could very well be attributable to the compulsory introduction of unleaded gasoline!
Dom cast iron is a fairly porous metal, and consequently on a unmachined hole like that will have soaked up year and years of any oil that was put in there to lubricate the steel inserts and the moving parts. I think you need to clean it with solvent again, not to use wire wheel and re heat it again to drive out more oil contamination. If you do that a couple of times you should get it clean enough to get the solder to tin the cast.
The only time I ever did soldering on cast I used Duzall solder flux to get the tinning to work... it is acidic, from memory a zinc based product... zinc chloride usually, and works well, but if you have some hydrochloric acid try that first to clean.degrease.. then the duzall
It's not necessary to tin the parts. It's just more work. Overkill. Not that it's bad. The babbitt will hold just fine. As it cools it expands holding the parts.
A friend once put his Gunked cylinder head in the dishwasher thinking that his wife was going to be out long enough. She came home and he now has his own dishwasher in his workshop and a new one in the kitchen.
You should always use pure tin for tinny when Babbitting , the stuff you’re using is lead based, it will be ok probably for this job but when i did my 1934 big end’s etc you have to use pure tin otherwise they will leave the shells 👍 loving your videos 😀👍👍
@@DominicChineas that’s great, I couldn’t find any when I did my shells I just bought pure tin melted in cast iron pot( it has to be cast iron so it doesn’t contaminate the tin) very handy to know it’s out there 👍👍😀
Dom. Is the babbit just being used as a shock absorbing space packer/filler? or is there a bearing surface? As that is what I am used to seeing it used for. Don't be surprized if you have some niggles. As the babbit may have been titterated slightly if it was used for packing/spacing?
as an apprentice mechanic during the 60's, the little bit of cast work I did had to be chiselled as grinding forced granules into the casting and so we chiselled out a vee for building up the weld, In my 20's I have successfully welded engine blocks where con rods came out and we would chip or shot peen the weld area to settle the structural grain (I think) as we welded, I see that that is a normal repair in modern times. davemac
Hi Dom I love your enthusiasm for the subject. In one of my many deep dives through engineering videos here on TH-cam I remember watching one on cold stitching. A technique designed to hold a crack together in cast pieces, stronger and less traumatic than braising/welding. Check it out, it's an old-school technique and it is also a dying art!
Is that silicon bronze you brazed it with ? Degrees the hole with caustic soda , Club the bottom of the hole with plasticine fill up the hole with a strong solution of caustic soda and let it soak for a few hours rinse out and try again .
Ref tin coating the components … I’m no engineer but It brings to mind soldering copper pipes while plumbing…. When soldering flux is used to ensure a clean copper removing impurities.. Would this principle also work in the Babbitt process….?
@@DominicChineas I'm sure you know welding and brazing are two very different processes. Welding involves raising the temperature of the parent material to fusing point and thus create the penetration needed for a good weld. Brazing is more akin to soldering where the material is heated only sufficiently to produce a few molecule thick alloy layer at the junction between the parent material and the filler rod.
Hi Dom I have poured leaf for fixing iron work and grandpa showed me how this process was done on steam engines. A acid was used to clean the iron work, I guess like modern flux, then the lead mix would be poured in. I think your on the right track good luck with it.
Really good progress there Dom. Please don't apologise over mistakes or things taking longer; seeing the mistakes & things keeps more real.
It's the "show all"good and bad that makes these videos so interesting and enjoyable. Your inthusiasm is so contagious. Keep the videos coming Dom...
Thank you!
Keep at it Dom. Who has never tried to do something they are unsure of? It’s essential we follow that inquisitive nature to develop learning. Loved the fixing of the cast part. I’ve often wondered how such a fix was done. Many thanks, Wayne
Ah; my weekly engineering fix completed. Another fascinating and instructive video Dom. An added bonus too; of an insight into some of your future plans for expanding your enterprise. It will be great following progress!
Well done for showing all the "didn't go quite right" moments, we can all learn from that and it shows that engineering can be fraught with hazards and uncertainties👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I found an old flannel bedsheet that I was going to cut up into rags, was rather handy for mopping up the overflowing coolant. I think most of us have done the same when first setting up a Colchester. The tank sat inside is considerably smaller than would first be expected looking at the size of the lathe. Wrapping cast iron in an old fire blanket helps slow the cooling process down nicely.
Dom, so fantastic to see the progress. Yes binging this now also😊😊
I felt your pain describing when you found the crack, glad you seem to have managed to fix it OK !
Well done Dom, your slowly getting there, if you spill any more coolant , don’t use a mop, use a spade or shovel and pour it into a bowl or something, that’s what we do at work, 👍👍.
Serious bit of cast welding - very impressive.
That's brazing...
Fine work, Experts on tinning cast iron I guess are few , used special fluxes but only tiny areas/ I agree, probably not wetted origionally. fixed the clicky knee on new bridgeport and adjusted x y backlash .
You have the right attitude here, have a go, if it fails you get experience, if it works you make a note of what you did! I would be very surprised if you were able to tin cast iron! I really cannot see the need to as the babbit will go into and small depressions in the casting and prevent movement of the bush, if you want to make it extra locked you can machine radial grooves in the housing, and providing to casting is heated up before you pour the babbit it will form a mechanical bond, good luck! Chris B.
I enjoyed watching that Dom. It was interesting watching you solve the problems you encountered. I always enjoyed fixing my problems, it's very satisfying. As for things in the oven, I've lost count of the times I've put my bike/car spark plugs in to warm them or dry them. Have a good week Dom and thanks for filming it all.👍🙂
Your videos are always entertaining and instructional. Thank you for inviting us along on this historic journey!
Hello Dominic!
I have been watching really interesting your videos . I have Ranalah too . I bought at in England couple years ago . It was poor condition.The problem was that it wasn’t lined up with upper and lower wheel (machine was fall down some age ) and the upper wheels axle was bended . We managed straighten the axle without melt and renew the axle. The machinist told me that the axle were not been tinned ,even it looks like so . He mentioned that substance what they been used that time is not shrinking is it spreading . He dosen’t remenber the special substance name but he said that metallurigies use that nowsdays also.
Amazing thank you for your information, if you ever need new parts just let me know
@@DominicChineas How about chemical metal ? Is it hard enough?
Thank you Dom for the Ranalah update. Coming along nicely. To bad about the crack, however it looks like the crack may have been repaired. Looking forward to more progress updates!! Cheers
A lot of people call brazing welding, it isn't! Welding is melting the parent metals together, brazing is using a bras or bronze filler which joins the two metals without changing the structure of the metals to be joined. You could try Bakers fluid which is a hydrochloric acid based flux when tinning the cast iron.
Cheers, Matthew
Thanks for the info, appreciate it
Agreed 100%. See my comment up-thread.
i used to be a plumber and one thing i found to my cost at first was not allowing the carbon from the blow torch flame near anything i was soldering , always heat a joint up away from the soldering area and wait untill the flux starts boiling before you put any solder near it , wiping a lead joint is done more subtly and a lot less heat is required , at least your learning and we are learning from your mistakes too ;)
I think you did well getting that old cast iron to tin. One of the most active fluxes that you can use is Killed Spirits or Bakers Fluid. I also think the old lead solder is a lot better than the new lead free stuff.
Wow. I am impressed. Your satisfaction when you were successful with the Babbitt was lovely to see. It seemed like that period was a real learning session. All the best with your enterprise.
Over filling the Colchester coolant tank is part of the initiation process. You can add an overflow pipe to that finger hole, and run it to a tray at the front to give yourself a bit of a back up.
Been there, done that. Like you say, rite of passage!
Well done Dom trial & error always works .
I’ll get there in the end!
Find some bakers soldering fluid, it will clean the oxidised layer and get a good bond with the tinning compound.
Pretty nasty stuff but it does the business, I think it's got hydrochloric acid in as the cleaning medium but I cant be sure now. It's a long time since i last used it but if you do Dom wear a very good filter mask or ever a pumped air helmet as the fumes are bloody awful lol
@@samrodian919 it’s hydrochloric acid with a saturation of zinc. Lovely stuff
Thank you I use this at the repair shop, I should have brought it back with me?
@@DominicChineas it’s great stuff, makes solder stick where you wouldn’t expect it to. Although personally I’ve never tinned before pouring Babbitt
Love your films and the way you explain your processing the challenges you meet. Great work Dom.
I learn something new every time I watch you brilliant cheers
Hi Dom, Lots of little bits, but as always you get over them , don't forget slow and take your time, it's all coming together, stay safe , All the best Brian 😃
I wonder if a cylinder Hone would work? IDK, just a thought, thanks for sharing, I love watching people saving history like this.
EDIT: well i stayed till the end, glad you got it!
Well done Dom, you got there in the end!!😊👍
Parts in the oven, walnut tumbling media(bagged...) in the washing machine & maggots(fishing bait) in the fridge.
There are many advantages to terminating the idea of shared living space. 😁
Thanks Dom and no need to apologize if something goes wrong, we are all learning through you. Once again great content.
Great work Dom, love how you give things a bash, all part of learning, thanks for sharing.
Thanks so much for the support
Mask 👍👍👍 Fume extractor system please.! We protect eyes fingers (and jumpers!) - so look after those lungs as well! You're doing a great job - thank you!
I have found lead free solder is difficult to use. Have a good stock of 60/40 solder should out last me. Great what you are doing.
Another fantastic video, thank you, really looking forward to the next one.
Thanks, next weeks video we pour the babbitt! It’s a good one!
Tinning cast iron is very, very hard, pickling in Sulfuric acid helps. Are you sure it was tinned originally though. Normally if there's knobbles and lumps welded or cast on, it's more a structural bond than a chemical one they depend on. I've done a lot of white metal (Babbit) bearings in my time, working for a firm who specialise in casting and machining vintage car bearings. And when there where knobbles, there was no tinning. Also, is there a reason your using Babbit? I would have assumed the original would have been cheaper lead.
Keep up the good work, it's lovely seeing the old tools brought back to life.
That’s really interesting, knobbles and bumps are all there on the parts, I assume the rough surface of the casting inside the holes helps too..
It doesn’t seem like any of the originals I’ve taken apart were tinned, I’m just trying to do the best job possible
Thank you for sharing your knowledge
@@DominicChineas No problem. I would check out what you melted out of the old one. I bet it was lead and not Babbit.
Good work using tig braze bronze on that crack. Thats the best repair choice. 2nd would be nickel 55 rod.
Interested to know why you chose to TIG weld over bronze brazing? I think that brazing introduces less/ more even heat and I have had good results brazing cast iron.
The cast iron repair was tig brazed, not welded, judging by the yellow colour of the finished job?
Great stuff Dom. For the interior face tinning, I was thinking you could try one of those honing tools that look like berries in a stick. It would do a better job of refacing the surface than a wire wheel. Good luck.
That’s not a bad idea! Thank you
Now we just need to get you to take on the T.Norton Fly Press Project.
Hello Dom,
An enjoyable video, thank you... Good to see the tinning got done, well done... I am not sure if you are aware of Keith Ruckers channel as he has done quite a few restorations with babbitt bearings. See you next Sunday...
Take care.
Paul,,
Love the Ranalah journey Dom. Don’t forget to turn the Ranalah sign on when talking about it 👌. Don’t know if your into antique cone rollers but there’s one for sale in Crewe on FBM.
Thank you, me forgetting to turn the sign on is going to become a thing! Haha
Good man Dom, glad you sorted the tinning issue. As for the crack, looks like you’ve sorted out okay. Great video. See you next time
I have done repairs on old tin items ( a Dutch style kids doll house 60's ), it looked a breeze to re-solder, I too wire bushed etc etc but all that seemed to do was spread a grey coating all over the area as if a coating built up on the tin and abrasion just seemed to spread it not remove it even though it looked shiny and clean. The only way I could get the metal to tin was a Dremel with grind stone, when down to the bare metal it soldered like a dream until then I couldn't even reflow the existing joints. I've never seen tinning paste like that but when it comes to solder I always use lead based these modern leadless ones are very sticky and hard to work I find. For electrical solder I prefer lead/tin 3% silver
Dear Dominic, Perhaps you should be using type metal. It expands very slightly as it solidifies and would ensure a tight fit.
Hi Dom, very interesting, I use cat litter to mop up spilled oil. Will the cast Iron shrink more than the babbit when it cools?
Keep going , your onto a winner 👍
Excellent work, Dom. I remember the solder paste from a brief foray into lead loading. Good stuff. I will watch with interest when you do the babbitt pour. I don't know if you are familiar but Keith Rucker has featured babbitt pours a few times in his videos. I could sense your excitement at the end there, that's just the way it is sometimes. All the best, Mart in Solihull.
I watched Keith assessing Jimmy Diresta’s 4’ wheel bandsaw. That was a detailed episode and where I first heard of Babbitt. It’s all very interesting!
I would suggest that tinning may not achieve much. The rule with electrical soldered joints is that you should never rely on solder for mechanical strength, it's just for good electrical contact. If you can somehow roughen up or groove the inner surface that may be a better way of stopping the insert moving.
Yes I think you are right, it didn’t really make any difference at all
I enjoy the process
Well done as always. Your skills will always win the day.
Keep up the good work Dom.👍👍
I was going to suggest one of those drum shaped sanding flap wheel things on a drill but glad the wire wheel on a drill did the trick. Did you do the finish to the crack repair with braze? Looked brassy to me. Top work as ever 👍
I believe Dom used Phosphor/Bronze welding rods for his TIG welder. That's why it looks brassy. Dom will correct me if I am choking on my foot.lol
@@busman2000 It's never wise to weld cast iron the heat of fusion creates brittle carbides adjacent to the weld line. As inferred, far better to use a lower temperature "brazed" joint as it's quite strong enough without carbide enbrittled zones.
Very inspiring! Couple of questions: What kind of rod did you use to weld the crack? How did you ensure a gradual cool down?
Keep at it and remember you never stop learning we are sure you will get it working 💪
Absolutely outstanding!
Your skills are off the scale, your passion gives me butterflies, your humility is only exceeded by your intelligence. Thank you very much. Regards Gareth Wiltshire UK. Gratitude. Quality. Respect.
Hi Dom ive just started watching your channel & i thi k its brilliant all the thinks you get up to in your workshop is right up my street mate 😁 im an engineer by trade & like nothing better than repairing & fixing up things to so we've got a lot in common btw ive just watched your video on the "bridgeport" haven't seen one of those for ages last time i used one was at college as part of my apprenticeship.
Great progress Dom. The mistakes make it all the more interesting. Keep up the good work!
I am definitely learning a lot
I think we are all learning a lot Dom!
Brilliant job!
Hi Dom, grinding rather than wire brushing might yield more fruitful results. Good luck. Steve, Langdon Hills Essex.
Dom, please tell me what did you use as a filler rod for welding the cast iron?
If it hadn't worked I was going to suggest using a rotary burr to gring down a few lines inside to at least tin those areas and provide a key.
Great work Dom. Keep showing the mistakes. Nobody believes it when everything works perfectly 😁
Are you going to covered the “Tinned” parts to keep them clean ?
Hi Dom I would of thought that the inside wall of the casting would be course enough to hold the babit ok.
Yeah, I think that’s how they did it, the originals don’t seem to be tinned
What composition rods did you use for the crack repair?
I think they were c11 rods
Beautiful repair on the original!
Thanks for sharing 🇨🇦
Great effort. I don't want to be all nanny but with all those fumes and smoke especially if they contain lead some kind of fume extraction/ filtering would be a wise move!
Yet you couldn't resist...
@@ShainAndrews You can as snarky as you like but we only he one set of lungs and lead fume are a pretty terminal way to screw them up.
Acute lead poisoning is truly scary stuff & Dom will definitely need to use precautions if he winds up doing these procedures often. Interestingly enough, even low-level lead inhalation is suspected of causing all kinds of weird damage... The drop in U.S. murder rates between the 1980's & 2000's, for example, could very well be attributable to the compulsory introduction of unleaded gasoline!
Dom cast iron is a fairly porous metal, and consequently on a unmachined hole like that will have soaked up year and years of any oil that was put in there to lubricate the steel inserts and the moving parts. I think you need to clean it with solvent again, not to use wire wheel and re heat it again to drive out more oil contamination. If you do that a couple of times you should get it clean enough to get the solder to tin the cast.
Hi Dom, good work on figuring the tinning. I am curious about your comment about Ranalah servicing. How many original Ranalahs are out there still?
There’s quite a few!
Dom have you tried some kind of "Active Flux" that will clean the surfaces and protect from oxidation while heating it up ?
Was just thinking that. Phosphoric acid would work wonders if it was brass. I've never tinned iron but I would think the process would be similar.
Great video Dominic, glad to see you found your welding jacket. Also, you never put Ranalah neon on.
Cat litter is good for dealing with spillages.
Great progress 👍
Enjoyed that well done !
try fry's fry-o-lux for tinning your brass work.
Thank you but it’s all steel/cast iron!
Keep up the good work great video as always
The only time I ever did soldering on cast I used Duzall solder flux to get the tinning to work... it is acidic, from memory a zinc based product... zinc chloride usually, and works well, but if you have some hydrochloric acid try that first to clean.degrease.. then the duzall
Thank you! I’ll try get some
Thanks,Dom for an interesting video
Hi Dom,I was wondering if there was a resin that would be tough enough to take the pressure of the pushing and pulling and thrust loads exerted on it?
It's not necessary to tin the parts. It's just more work. Overkill. Not that it's bad. The babbitt will hold just fine. As it cools it expands holding the parts.
yay well done ....
Thanks!
A friend once put his Gunked cylinder head in the dishwasher thinking that his wife was going to be out long enough. She came home and he now has his own dishwasher in his workshop and a new one in the kitchen.
I would suggest that metal stitching, a la Metalock is a safer and stronger way to repair cracked castings. .
You should always use pure tin for tinny when Babbitting , the stuff you’re using is lead based, it will be ok probably for this job but when i did my 1934 big end’s etc you have to use pure tin otherwise they will leave the shells 👍 loving your videos 😀👍👍
The second tub of tinning paste is pure tin, it’s not lead based
Thank you for watching!
@@DominicChineas that’s great, I couldn’t find any when I did my shells I just bought pure tin melted in cast iron pot( it has to be cast iron so it doesn’t contaminate the tin) very handy to know it’s out there 👍👍😀
Dom. Is the babbit just being used as a shock absorbing space packer/filler? or is there a bearing surface? As that is what I am used to seeing it used for. Don't be surprized if you have some niggles. As the babbit may have been titterated slightly if it was used for packing/spacing?
No it’s not a bearing surface, it’s just a filling material..
I have had the original analysed and matched for the new babbitt
Good show!!! next time, remember to turn on the Ranalah sign... :D
Could you run a small hone inside would clean and polish like a engine cylinder
as an apprentice mechanic during the 60's, the little bit of cast work I did had to be chiselled as grinding forced granules into the casting and so we chiselled out a vee for building up the weld, In my 20's I have successfully welded engine blocks where con rods came out and we would chip or shot peen the weld area to settle the structural grain (I think) as we welded, I see that that is a normal repair in modern times. davemac
Hi Dom, what was the filler for the welding? Was it a nickel rod? Good work I hate welding cast!
Hi Dom I love your enthusiasm for the subject. In one of my many deep dives through engineering videos here on TH-cam I remember watching one on cold stitching. A technique designed to hold a crack together in cast pieces, stronger and less traumatic than braising/welding. Check it out, it's an old-school technique and it is also a dying art!
BS
Nope. Search it yourself. I'll wait.
Well done Dom. I’m looking forward to the next process. Kind regards, Richard.
Good stuff 😁👍
Hi Dom, great crack repair! Out of interest, what filler rod did you use when you were welding it up?
Cheers
It was a bronze rod, I think it was c11 but I’d have to check
Is that silicon bronze you brazed it with ?
Degrees the hole with caustic soda , Club the bottom of the hole with plasticine fill up the hole with a strong solution of caustic soda and let it soak for a few hours rinse out and try again .
Ahhh Dom’; that Defender is still there, & summer is coming….?
Argh I know!!!
Ref tin coating the components …
I’m no engineer but
It brings to mind soldering copper pipes while plumbing…. When soldering flux is used to ensure a clean copper removing impurities..
Would this principle also work in the Babbitt process….?
Crack welding, exactly how I was shown as an apprentice in the 70s, however we used an ark welder
THIS IS NOT WELDING
Who cares what you call it
Thanks Jim for the kind words
@@DominicChineas I'm sure you know welding and brazing are two very different processes. Welding involves raising the temperature of the parent material to fusing point and thus create the penetration needed for a good weld. Brazing is more akin to soldering where the material is heated only sufficiently to produce a few molecule thick alloy layer at the junction between the parent material and the filler rod.
That's an assinine remark...
@@horacerumpole6912 Don't you mean asinine?
Dom to of cleaned the cast iron bore and remove embedded dirt using expanding reamer would of helped.
"Have a cup of tea and a think." Solves any problem.