The genuine enthusiasm & passion you exude when talking about this project is truly uplifting. Really looking forward to hearing about the Porsche bonnet project.
I work on miniature cast iron steam engines, when polishing mine up to a nice shine I finish with BRASSO on a leather. It brings them up a treat. Steve
I would use bearings with a shield (Z) is the ref it will keep some of the dirt out , and they will come without grease in them so they will spin freely.
Damn, that was shiny! I never thought I would know so much about a machine I had not heard of until a few weeks ago. I repaired a floor-standing version of your hydraulic press that had been flytipped locally and gave it to the charity who own the land, to sell on. I also see a fly press that's almost identical to one I used at my first job. I can still remember knocking myself skelly with the delicate little weights on the top - in 1986! 💚🐇🐴💚
Yet another great video Dom, thank you. Reading the comments, it was mentioned what is the size of the market for your wheeling machines. Also stated is many of the TH-cam videos show workshops and specialists with English wheels in their workshops. So there is obviously already an existing demand. Some people seem to own cheapie fabricated machines but there will always be a market for "the best". I am convinced that many people would like to try wheeling but are unsure which road to go down. Your excellent series of videos and your honest explanations will inspire us plebs to have a go. Therefore the market for wheeling machines will grow!
Nice work Dom, but please cover the ways with an oil dampened cloth whenever you're grinding on the lathe, I always hang a magnet in a plastic bag above and behind the work as well on my Colchester to capture as much as possible. The live centre works much better when it is actually contacting the work too, Ive done it myself numerous times, and not tightening the tailstock before windinginto the work is my favourite 😁
Hi Dom.. You are doing what all of us engineers always do.. My God! everything needs to be 110% perfect !! Now let's look at the reality of the world, and life, we all started as apprentices, normally working on mills, lathes, surface grinders, etc most of which were decades old, and had been abused to a point where they were probably scrap before we even encountered them, then you had a forman that wanted you to produce a part that was within a 1/10th of thou when you looked at the machine and realized that the chuck was wobbling about by 5/10ths of thou before you started.. But we all worked it out and became engineers.. My point is, that good engineers, should be able to adapt to any minor differences in tooling and equipment they come across, a perfect lower wheel (especially of mild steel) will only last until the 3rd person that uses it decides to ram a sheet of metal through it that is far too thick. That is why all production engineering drawings have a tolerance range rather than a specific size, that the part needs to be within.
Brilliant finish on the wheels. Many years ago, in the 80's we turned a 1RMS finish on aluminum photocopier drums. That was a magical\artesian process for an engine lathe. The chip was like candy floss and the finish was so good it looked like the drum was no longer turning. Looking forward to the next installment.
Fantastic video thanks Dom great progress on the Ranalah got my fingers crossed that Geoff likes the wheels they look great. I knew exactly what you meant when polishing the wheels with different finer grades that took me back to when I was a trainee toolmaker in 1983 when we had to rework the injection molding tools make new parts then having to polish out the machine marks on the surface that the plastic parts were moulded to a mirror and it was all done by me by hand no machines to help me and it took literally hours and hours hard graft but I kinda enjoyed the end result and the proudness of that shine. Keep up the great work ♥️
Nice work Dominic good to see it moving along. Your large polishing mop looks like it would benefit from a good clean with a polishing mop rake though.
Some real engineering there, Dom, with lathe and polishers and pressing bearings/axles. Kinda beats drilling rivets out on RS, lol. Anyway congrats so far and here's (fingers crossed) to Jeff passing those wheels as A-OK. I will never have need of a wheeling machine, but it looks like a lots of fun (& skill too, of course) being able to shape metal like that - a skill, no doubt, that experts have spent decades learning to make it look easy. Cool stuff my friend.
I can't understand why I feel so fascinated and intrigued by this Ranalah story. I'm not an engineer, will never have need to use a wheeling machine and don't properly understand the intricacies of the engineering challenges involved in designing and fabricating one. It's a great watch though and a highlight of my viewing week. Great work Dom; looking forward to the next episode!
I always appreciate passionate dedication to a project, especially when it involves bringing back something outstanding that we were in danger of losing. What I'm curious about is the size of the community using this type of machine. I have no idea if you have five people wanting parts or machines or if it's many hundreds.
The English Wheel is often seen on many of the car renovation videos and TV shows, so it does seem a must have piece of equipment. For the time, money and enthusiasm Dominic is putting into this project let's hope there is interest in having one of these machines.
Don't know if anyone here follow's Harry's Garage , Harry Metcalf ex Evo magazine - his latest video is about the restoration of his Lancia Fulvia coupe - and the technicians there were using an English wheel to create a new Door Skin - absolutely fascinating
Its possibly always going to be a niche tool, nowadays. But in renovation of vintage and classic equipment; cars, bikes etc etc it will probably be easier to get parts made this way - as opposed to manufacturing bucks for pressing 'one-off' bespoke parts. That is if there are still skilled artisans to use the wheeling machine.
Delighted to hear that the first job for the wheels is a new Porsche bonnet! What better way to check them out - really looking forward to the next vid.
Great video Dom. You should be proud of what you have achieved. You had a vision which is now complete. Hope Geoff gives the thumbs up 👍. Good luck with the bonnet for the Porsche.. Can't wait for the next video 😎👍
Hi Dom. Very much enjoying your videos. Just for your info (you're probably aware already) I was reading one of my regular mags recently 'Classic Motorcycle Mechanics' and they featured a company called TAB II Classics - they use a Ranalah wheel and refer to it as the "Rolls-Royce" of wheeling machines.
Well done, great to see the project nearing the testing phase. It will be interesting to see whether the finish and hardness are ok. I would hazard a guess that they are more than good enough as they are. Enjoy yourself on the wheeling course!! Good luck from Spain!!
Yes I think I worded it wrong, the sparks are clearly material being removed, i meant it’s just the high spots of the ridges and not actually changing the radius, I hope that makes sense
I love the channel, and the wheeling machine project, but loved to see the Porsche mentioned as a byproduct; perhaps every once in a while just do a quick up date on all the items in process... what does the coffee defender need, what is the next step for the Porsche, etc. Thanks for sharing all your projects
Hello Dom, Looks like you have reached a bit of a milestone now you are in the testing phase. Not wanting to teach you to suck eggs but you may want to think about Craytex sticks to help with the polishing of the rollers. Also, I think I would add a unique mark to each of the roller spindles so it is easy to check manufacture date and material later down the track should there be any issues. I am really looking forward to next weeks episode. Take care. Paul,,
I think, from a manufacturing prospective, you need to leave the lower wheels in "as machined" surface condition and have Jeff try them out to see if the surface is acceptable. You have to think of the time (cost) you spent polishing those wheels and how you can justify that time (cost) in selling the finished product.
As a user of a rough anvil (not polished) I prefer being able to put my own finish on tooling but there perhaps needs to be a halfway point or option for buying mirrored wheels for anyone that doesnt have a lathe to polish /unpolish their own kit. Wheeling characteristically puts a very fine finish on the work piece so using mirrored polished wheels is logical but may not be necessary. I guess we shall see
Dom, inspiring as usual. You and your videos NEVER fail to be outstanding in every possible way. Never miss an opportunity to watch your next edition. Looking for ward to the results of your efforts on the "new" Porsche bonnett. BE Safe Your Utah U.S.A. subscriber Bill
You probably already havecit worked out but here's a thought about the lower wheels originally being mild steel instead of hardened. Perhaps this was deliberate to make sure the top wheel didnt wear as much and kept its profile longer.
Did you think about using sealed bearings? Not authentic, I know, but the chances of getting swarf and other workshop debris in them is much higher than wearing them out.
Might those welded feet on your frame have future trouble? Being welded to cast iron, how do you deal with bonding issues? Thanks for the vids, you do great work!
Considering that he is the one who had them cast, he can make sure that the material they are being cast from is weldable. The main problem with welding "cast iron" is you never now what the material is made of.
Hi Don't, great videos. Just one comment, please, please cover the ways and saddle on your lathe up when using grinders. The spent abrasive dust and metal particles destroy the way and saddle surfaces in no time. Don't ruin a good lathe, cover with plastic sheet, or better still spin the parts in something less critical like a drill press.
Is there any chance you could show the CNC cutting of the wheels, either upper or lower? I can't visualise how a CNC cutter could cut a 'perfectly' circular wheel (mainly 'cos I have no experience of them) so I'd love to see that process being carried out. I definitely can't work out how it does the lower wheel! Great video, yet again, many thanks. Iain and Otto
Nearly there, Dom. Would you say that the lower wheels are the "consumable" part of the overall machine. Probably an expensive consumable but there is usually one part that wears quicker than everything else e.g. 3D printer nozzle, drill bit etc.
Interesting the anvils have flats. The wheels on my cheapie machine do too. But I know some people say fully radiused are 'better'. But I have never seen a good argument about what is actually preferable. Lots of arguments, but no compelling ones. It seems people get good results with both so I am not sure it matters that much. I think half the thing with wheeling machines is you get used to what you have because so much of it comes down to feel anyway and you learn the feel of the machine you have.
Lovely job! Why not used sealed bearings on the rollers? Also probably wise to use a mask when using the buff as the dust is apparently very bad for the lungs.
Dom, I was trying to work out how I would have done the patallel flats on the lower-wheel axels. It seems problematic. How did you do it? I am really looking forward to next week's feeedback and seeing the bonnet come to be.
A CNC cylindrical grinder could finish those profiles to Ra=0.4µm or - guessing here - leave stock on for super finishing to Ra=0.2µm. Repeatable and no need for Dom hand work that leads to an unknown profile. It's probably not too different to grinding crowned and barrelled teeth on pinions on aerospace transmission gear boxes. Hopefully a good manufacturing engineer or grinding specialist will comment and you'll get first hand knowledge.
Looks like some really good progress but just be careful polishing on the lathe. I was always taught never to wear gloves or jewellery anywhere near rotating machinery (never worn a watch since I left school). It could drag you round before you even know it. If I use emery on the lathe I'll always sand on the top so the machine is naturally pushing you away from the machine if it grabs, not into the machine.
Surely the very act of going through the grit sizes removes metal, as evidenced by the sparks. With such minute differences in the profiles of the wheels how do you know you haven't changed them?
Welding cast iron, you run a HUGE risk of the casting cracking, because you can't heat the whole casting to the same temperature. I think it would be much better to machine some steel pads and fasten them to the casting with screws. Regarding polishing of the anvils; it is largely unnecessary, as only the centre of the anvil contacts the work. The curve is only there to allow curved panels to be shaped, without hitting the ends of the anvil. Full-radius anvils allow the shape to made much quicker. Have you had them made with flats, because that is what Ranalah did?
5:01 Any material? The sparks say different. These profiled wheels will generally be in contact with the inside of any panel made on the tool. The surface does not really matter . I would let them get polished through use.
Given that these machines would likely be used in a fabrication shop, it's surprising to me that you wouldn't use sealed bearings. Sure- perhaps sealed bearing weren't original spec, but why not make it better?
Well, I expect that making it exactly like it was originally made means making it exactly like it was originally made! ...as opposed to making it differently ...!
You can see the metal coming off in the sparks, tiny amount!! cover up the bed of your lath when you do things like this, the unremoved metal won't do them any good!!!
Another positive reply from yourself! I think you might be missing the point, The goal for this project is to revive the ranalah name and re produce the wheeling machines so they are available for whoever wants one, to inspire people. literally nothing to do with me using it Thanks for watching though!
@@DominicChineas That seems to be a very strange thing to do, given the fact it takes 30 years of experience to learn how to use one properly, and those able to teach others are getting fewer and fewer? Might sell some I suppose, but why would anyone wanting to try wheeling, pay the sort of money you would want, over a Chinese machine, which is fine to learn on?
@@DominicChineas I seriously think you need to delete this guy Dom! He's getting rely tedious now and you/we just don't need that kind of smartass, negative crap! We'd ALL be better off without him........ I say censorship!!!
Hello Dom I have a moan! This comment is on behalf of your lathe, you were so excited and proud when it first arrived, it was very pleasing. Unfortunately, you are not treating it very well, I will assume you don’t know but using any grinding materials on a job in the chuck will cause abrasive dust. This dust is not good for your lungs, but it’s even worse for your lathe. The dust will lay on the ways of your machine stick in the oil becoming a grinding paste, every time you move the saddle or the slides the paste will grind the surfaces of the ways. Every now and then you do need to grind something in the chuck, when this happens, all you need to do is cover the bed and saddle with a dust sheet, mark one side of the sheet and always keep it that way up, if you use the dust sheet the wrong way up ingrained dust may fall on your bed. So, Dom, if you care about your lathe, please clean the ways, use proper way oil to lubricate them, and cover them up when using abrasives. In fact, in your shop where you are using grinding discs quite often you may want to cover the bed all the time. I’ll get off my soap box now, give my regards to your lathe, tell it I tried! JIm
Totally agree with you and i've mentioned it to a few youtubers, wearing gloves seams to be a epidemic within this Community. We're now having to constantly police our interns and apprentices to stop them copying when in the workshop!
Dom, my hat's off to you. So much work in recreating a machine is just amazes me.
The genuine enthusiasm & passion you exude when talking about this project is truly uplifting.
Really looking forward to hearing about the Porsche bonnet project.
Top quality content by an engineer for us engineers. No arty shots and robins in puddles, just the job and how to do it.
You are so active at a high intensity level I do hope you get enough time to unwind.
Thanks for the update Dom 😊
I work on miniature cast iron steam engines, when polishing mine up to a nice shine I finish with BRASSO on a leather. It brings them up a treat. Steve
I would use bearings with a shield (Z) is the ref it will keep some of the dirt out , and they will come without grease in them so they will spin freely.
Yes , open bearings with grease is asking for really bad rotational performance
Glad it wasn't only me thinking that
Definitely use shielded bearings. All that grease is magnetic to dirt!!
Great that the first test piece for the Ranalah is the Porsche bonnet. Cannot wait to see the work being done.
have a great time down here Dom. cant wait to see the 356 bonnet progress.
Damn, that was shiny!
I never thought I would know so much about a machine I had not heard of until a few weeks ago.
I repaired a floor-standing version of your hydraulic press that had been flytipped locally and gave it to the charity who own the land, to sell on. I also see a fly press that's almost identical to one I used at my first job. I can still remember knocking myself skelly with the delicate little weights on the top - in 1986!
💚🐇🐴💚
Yet another great video Dom, thank you. Reading the comments, it was mentioned what is the size of the market for your wheeling machines. Also stated is many of the TH-cam videos show workshops and specialists with English wheels in their workshops. So there is obviously already an existing demand. Some people seem to own cheapie fabricated machines but there will always be a market for "the best".
I am convinced that many people would like to try wheeling but are unsure which road to go down. Your excellent series of videos and your honest explanations will inspire us plebs to have a go. Therefore the market for wheeling machines will grow!
Yes!! That’s exactly what I am trying to achieve, anyone that is interested in having a go can get in touch with Geoff at mph and have a go!
Nice work Dom, but please cover the ways with an oil dampened cloth whenever you're grinding on the lathe, I always hang a magnet in a plastic bag above and behind the work as well on my Colchester to capture as much as possible. The live centre works much better when it is actually contacting the work too, Ive done it myself numerous times, and not tightening the tailstock before windinginto the work is my favourite 😁
Hi Dom..
You are doing what all of us engineers always do.. My God! everything needs to be 110% perfect !!
Now let's look at the reality of the world, and life, we all started as apprentices, normally working on mills, lathes, surface grinders, etc most of which were decades old, and had been abused to a point where they were probably scrap before we even encountered them, then you had a forman that wanted you to produce a part that was within a 1/10th of thou when you looked at the machine and realized that the chuck was wobbling about by 5/10ths of thou before you started..
But we all worked it out and became engineers..
My point is, that good engineers, should be able to adapt to any minor differences in tooling and equipment they come across, a perfect lower wheel (especially of mild steel) will only last until the 3rd person that uses it decides to ram a sheet of metal through it that is far too thick.
That is why all production engineering drawings have a tolerance range rather than a specific size, that the part needs to be within.
Exactly what I was thinking.
Woohoo so very nearly there.....whats it going to be like to use your very own brand new Ranalah...tingles
Can’t wait to see the bonnet project get underway. Pretty cool to be doing it with your new wheels and with a tutorial from a master wheeler!
Brilliant finish on the wheels. Many years ago, in the 80's we turned a 1RMS finish on aluminum photocopier drums. That was a magical\artesian process for an engine lathe. The chip was like candy floss and the finish was so good it looked like the drum was no longer turning. Looking forward to the next installment.
Fantastic video thanks Dom great progress on the Ranalah got my fingers crossed that Geoff likes the wheels they look great. I knew exactly what you meant when polishing the wheels with different finer grades that took me back to when I was a trainee toolmaker in 1983 when we had to rework the injection molding tools make new parts then having to polish out the machine marks on the surface that the plastic parts were moulded to a mirror and it was all done by me by hand no machines to help me and it took literally hours and hours hard graft but I kinda enjoyed the end result and the proudness of that shine. Keep up the great work ♥️
Mmm, shiny, shiny lower wheels. that set of 4 looks super. I hope that they perform nicely. ; - )
Nice work Dominic good to see it moving along. Your large polishing mop looks like it would benefit from a good clean with a polishing mop rake though.
Some real engineering there, Dom, with lathe and polishers and pressing bearings/axles. Kinda beats drilling rivets out on RS, lol. Anyway congrats so far and here's (fingers crossed) to Jeff passing those wheels as A-OK. I will never have need of a wheeling machine, but it looks like a lots of fun (& skill too, of course) being able to shape metal like that - a skill, no doubt, that experts have spent decades learning to make it look easy. Cool stuff my friend.
Good important advice about the sanding grit grades - the wheels look really good I bet you can't wait to start using it!
It's the process jewellers go through all the time: it's stunning to see it being applied in a machine shop! :grin:
I can't understand why I feel so fascinated and intrigued by this Ranalah story. I'm not an engineer, will never have need to use a wheeling machine and don't properly understand the intricacies of the engineering challenges involved in designing and fabricating one. It's a great watch though and a highlight of my viewing week. Great work Dom; looking forward to the next episode!
Same here, I think it’s the ingenuity of man and his machines that’s so compelling.
I always appreciate passionate dedication to a project, especially when it involves bringing back something outstanding that we were in danger of losing. What I'm curious about is the size of the community using this type of machine. I have no idea if you have five people wanting parts or machines or if it's many hundreds.
I am hoping to inspire as many people as possible!
The English Wheel is often seen on many of the car renovation videos and TV shows, so it does seem a must have piece of equipment. For the time, money and enthusiasm Dominic is putting into this project let's hope there is interest in having one of these machines.
Don't know if anyone here follow's Harry's Garage , Harry Metcalf ex Evo magazine - his latest video is about the restoration of his Lancia Fulvia coupe - and the technicians there were using an English wheel to create a new Door Skin - absolutely fascinating
Even the Hamster has one in his Small Cog bodyshop!
Its possibly always going to be a niche tool, nowadays. But in renovation of vintage and classic equipment; cars, bikes etc etc it will probably be easier to get parts made this way - as opposed to manufacturing bucks for pressing 'one-off' bespoke parts. That is if there are still skilled artisans to use the wheeling machine.
Delighted to hear that the first job for the wheels is a new Porsche bonnet! What better way to check them out - really looking forward to the next vid.
Impressive polishing.
Another fantastic episode, really excited to see how the wheels work out, as well as the fabrication of the bonnet for the 356
Great video Dom. You should be proud of what you have achieved. You had a vision which is now complete. Hope Geoff gives the thumbs up 👍. Good luck with the bonnet for the Porsche.. Can't wait for the next video 😎👍
Hi Dom. Very much enjoying your videos. Just for your info (you're probably aware already) I was reading one of my regular mags recently 'Classic Motorcycle Mechanics' and they featured a company called TAB II Classics - they use a Ranalah wheel and refer to it as the "Rolls-Royce" of wheeling machines.
Another great video Dom it will be interesting to see how they work.
Well done Dom, looking forward to seeing the next video and seeing how the wheels work out, good luck and kind regards, Richard.
Thank you, next weeks video should be good!
Amazing work! Can't wait for the next installment!
What a journey you have been on with the all these wheels, hope all goes well in Cornwall next week 👍
Just a thought ... maybe a mandrel in the lathe to hold the wheels and let you sand/polish a set at a time.
Loving this journey!
Thanks for sharing 🇨🇦
Fingers crossed the wheels meet Geoff's approval, watching this journey has been fabulous :)
Pro shaper has great information on his wheels and how to refinish
Well done, great to see the project nearing the testing phase.
It will be interesting to see whether the finish and hardness are ok. I would hazard a guess that they are more than good enough as they are.
Enjoy yourself on the wheeling course!!
Good luck from Spain!!
A milestone! Nice work, though surely even the Scotchbrite must remove some metal?... nice video Dom, thanks. Les
Yes I think I worded it wrong, the sparks are clearly material being removed, i meant it’s just the high spots of the ridges and not actually changing the radius, I hope that makes sense
I love the channel, and the wheeling machine project, but loved to see the Porsche mentioned as a byproduct; perhaps every once in a while just do a quick up date on all the items in process... what does the coffee defender need, what is the next step for the Porsche, etc. Thanks for sharing all your projects
In the future you can specify surface finish from the cnc shop you had the wheels made.
Love your enthusiasm, Dom!
The book is ordered 👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you!!
A fab update, well done Dom 😎👍🏻 I look forward to the next one to see what Jeff says 😎👍🏻
Hello Dom,
Looks like you have reached a bit of a milestone now you are in the testing phase. Not wanting to teach you to suck eggs but you may want to think about Craytex sticks to help with the polishing of the rollers. Also, I think I would add a unique mark to each of the roller spindles so it is easy to check manufacture date and material later down the track should there be any issues. I am really looking forward to next weeks episode.
Take care.
Paul,,
I always appreciate the input, thank you for sharing!
I think, from a manufacturing prospective, you need to leave the lower wheels in "as machined" surface condition and have Jeff try them out to see if the surface is acceptable. You have to think of the time (cost) you spent polishing those wheels and how you can justify that time (cost) in selling the finished product.
As a user of a rough anvil (not polished) I prefer being able to put my own finish on tooling but there perhaps needs to be a halfway point or option for buying mirrored wheels for anyone that doesnt have a lathe to polish /unpolish their own kit. Wheeling characteristically puts a very fine finish on the work piece so using mirrored polished wheels is logical but may not be necessary.
I guess we shall see
Thanks Dom fanbloodytastic work 👍👨🏻🏭
Dom,
inspiring as usual. You and your videos NEVER fail to be outstanding in every possible way. Never miss an opportunity to watch your next edition. Looking for ward to the results of your efforts on the "new" Porsche bonnett.
BE Safe
Your Utah U.S.A. subscriber
Bill
Good skills, exciting times for you!
May I recommend that you also use a different cloth each time you wipe the piece in case there is any grit left in it from the previous
Oooooh, so close to the end… of the start.
Brilliant project .
You probably already havecit worked out but here's a thought about the lower wheels originally being mild steel instead of hardened. Perhaps this was deliberate to make sure the top wheel didnt wear as much and kept its profile longer.
Thank you.
Did you think about using sealed bearings? Not authentic, I know, but the chances of getting swarf and other workshop debris in them is much higher than wearing them out.
Might those welded feet on your frame have future trouble? Being welded to cast iron, how do you deal with bonding issues? Thanks for the vids, you do great work!
Considering that he is the one who had them cast, he can make sure that the material they are being cast from is weldable. The main problem with welding "cast iron" is you never now what the material is made of.
Hi Don't, great videos. Just one comment, please, please cover the ways and saddle on your lathe up when using grinders. The spent abrasive dust and metal particles destroy the way and saddle surfaces in no time. Don't ruin a good lathe, cover with plastic sheet, or better still spin the parts in something less critical like a drill press.
Good luck with the testing!
Good afternoon all
There's a industrial estate in Newhaven called "Ranalah Industrial Estate". Maybe you knew already.
Is there any chance you could show the CNC cutting of the wheels, either upper or lower? I can't visualise how a CNC cutter could cut a 'perfectly' circular wheel (mainly 'cos I have no experience of them) so I'd love to see that process being carried out. I definitely can't work out how it does the lower wheel!
Great video, yet again, many thanks. Iain and Otto
Great video, Willenhall here West Midlands, believe you know a mate of mine who restores old cars, Anthony Barrett from New Invention Short Heath.
Nearly there, Dom. Would you say that the lower wheels are the "consumable" part of the overall machine. Probably an expensive consumable but there is usually one part that wears quicker than everything else e.g. 3D printer nozzle, drill bit etc.
Interesting the anvils have flats. The wheels on my cheapie machine do too. But I know some people say fully radiused are 'better'. But I have never seen a good argument about what is actually preferable. Lots of arguments, but no compelling ones. It seems people get good results with both so I am not sure it matters that much. I think half the thing with wheeling machines is you get used to what you have because so much of it comes down to feel anyway and you learn the feel of the machine you have.
You should have used sealed bearings in that application, keeps the much out of the bearings and they last much longer.
Cover the ways of your lathe when doing any grinding operations👍
Sorry yes I did put a cover down for the others! My poor new lathe!
Lovely job! Why not used sealed bearings on the rollers? Also probably wise to use a mask when using the buff as the dust is apparently very bad for the lungs.
Excellent work Dom, was there a reason why you didn’t fit bearings with dust shields?
Iam wanting for my first aluminum project is a light weight hardtop for my TR3 I have the original steel top.
Dom, I was trying to work out how I would have done the patallel flats on the lower-wheel axels. It seems problematic. How did you do it? I am really looking forward to next week's feeedback and seeing the bonnet come to be.
Fingers crossed the wheels are okay
A CNC cylindrical grinder could finish those profiles to Ra=0.4µm or - guessing here - leave stock on for super finishing to Ra=0.2µm. Repeatable and no need for Dom hand work that leads to an unknown profile. It's probably not too different to grinding crowned and barrelled teeth on pinions on aerospace transmission gear boxes. Hopefully a good manufacturing engineer or grinding specialist will comment and you'll get first hand knowledge.
I appreciate the info thank you! Let’s see if anyone reaches out!
You should use sealed bearings. They would be lubricated for their service life and prevent contamination.
Looks like some really good progress but just be careful polishing on the lathe. I was always taught never to wear gloves or jewellery anywhere near rotating machinery (never worn a watch since I left school). It could drag you round before you even know it. If I use emery on the lathe I'll always sand on the top so the machine is naturally pushing you away from the machine if it grabs, not into the machine.
Also I'll use a long strip that is loosely held with both hands at either end so my hands are well away and the risk of it grabbing lowered.
Final piece / Part One - very funny.
Great video. Just curious but, have you mentioned what price you think the finished Ranalah’s might sell for ?
Have you measured the wheel diameter before polishing and after to see what the difference is.
why did you not use sealed bearings?
Because I want to keep things as they did..
Surely the very act of going through the grit sizes removes metal, as evidenced by the sparks. With such minute differences in the profiles of the wheels how do you know you haven't changed them?
Welding cast iron, you run a HUGE risk of the casting cracking, because you can't heat the whole casting to the same temperature. I think it would be much better to machine some steel pads and fasten them to the casting with screws.
Regarding polishing of the anvils; it is largely unnecessary, as only the centre of the anvil contacts the work. The curve is only there to allow curved panels to be shaped, without hitting the ends of the anvil.
Full-radius anvils allow the shape to made much quicker. Have you had them made with flats, because that is what Ranalah did?
看起来很有趣，视频做的很好
No shields on bearings and grit all over the lathe!! I wept.
Sorry to upset you! Haha
5:01 Any material?
The sparks say different.
These profiled wheels will generally be in contact with the inside of any panel made on the tool. The surface does not really matter . I would let them get polished through use.
Haha yes, I didn’t mean any material sorry, I just meant it wouldn’t change the shape, clearly they are removing material!
Thank you
Don't you want to grind the weals with 4000 grid? It will be even better)
Don't be so grumpy, that poor guy with the leaf blower probably thinks that Sunday morning is the best time to do it and not disturb too many people.
👍👍
Given that these machines would likely be used in a fabrication shop, it's surprising to me that you wouldn't use sealed bearings. Sure- perhaps sealed bearing weren't original spec, but why not make it better?
Well, I expect that making it exactly like it was originally made means making it exactly like it was originally made!
...as opposed to making it differently ...!
@@andymccabe6712 that would be an odd choice when it comes to exposed open bearings in a fabrication shop.
You can see the metal coming off in the sparks, tiny amount!! cover up the bed of your lath when you do things like this, the unremoved metal won't do them any good!!!
I would have thought the final part of the puzzle entails years of practice, and finally being able to actually make some parts with these machines?
Another positive reply from yourself!
I think you might be missing the point,
The goal for this project is to revive the ranalah name and re produce the wheeling machines so they are available for whoever wants one, to inspire people.
literally nothing to do with me using it
Thanks for watching though!
@@DominicChineas That seems to be a very strange thing to do, given the fact it takes 30 years of experience to learn how to use one properly, and those able to teach others are getting fewer and fewer?
Might sell some I suppose, but why would anyone wanting to try wheeling, pay the sort of money you would want, over a Chinese machine, which is fine to learn on?
@@DominicChineas I seriously think you need to delete this guy Dom!
He's getting rely tedious now and you/we just don't need that kind of smartass, negative crap!
We'd ALL be better off without him........
I say censorship!!!
Hello Dom
I have a moan! This comment is on behalf of your lathe, you were so excited and proud when it first arrived, it was very pleasing. Unfortunately, you are not treating it very well, I will assume you don’t know but using any grinding materials on a job in the chuck will cause abrasive dust. This dust is not good for your lungs, but it’s even worse for your lathe. The dust will lay on the ways of your machine stick in the oil becoming a grinding paste, every time you move the saddle or the slides the paste will grind the surfaces of the ways.
Every now and then you do need to grind something in the chuck, when this happens, all you need to do is cover the bed and saddle with a dust sheet, mark one side of the sheet and always keep it that way up, if you use the dust sheet the wrong way up ingrained dust may fall on your bed.
So, Dom, if you care about your lathe, please clean the ways, use proper way oil to lubricate them, and cover them up when using abrasives. In fact, in your shop where you are using grinding discs quite often you may want to cover the bed all the time.
I’ll get off my soap box now, give my regards to your lathe, tell it I tried!
JIm
Thanks for the notice, I appreciate it!
Dom, please please please don’t use gloves of any kind when you use a lathe, or any machine tool. Watching is terrifying as machining lecturer!
Totally agree with you and i've mentioned it to a few youtubers, wearing gloves seams to be a epidemic within this Community. We're now having to constantly police our interns and apprentices to stop them copying when in the workshop!
Really? Grinding that wheel while it's running out by about 1mm??