Repair a stuck ATV brake caliper, WITHOUT REBUILDING! Honda TRX250EX
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ม.ค. 2022
- In this video I free up a stuck caliper from a quad sport ATV which has been sitting for a long period, without rebuilding! This is a procedure which can work on virtually any powersport (motorcycle, etc.) brake calipers. Don't forget to subscribe and like! Thanks for watching!
Great video! I got one for ya! I got a 2002 Honda Sportrax 250ex I've had since I was a teenager. Didn't ride alot so still is awesome condition and doing some things to it so my son can ride. Issue I'm having is after a few mins the front breaks get tight and end up locking up both wheels. Well I have thrown the kitchen sink at it!!
I started with replacing both front brake pads as well as master cylinder rebuild and bleed the brakes lines. I initially thought it may have had water in the lines possibly or the MC so I changed both.
So pads swapped out, bleed lines. When changing pads I felt like the right caliper cylinder was seized up because it would not move at all as I was making sure they were pushed all the way in before removing caliper so pad swap. I was like if it still locks up it's gotta be the right cylinder once I'm all done with this. Well after all that and riding a few minutes both from wheels lock up(this has a handlebar brake on both sides for the front). When I released the caliper bleeder on the ride side for a sec to let a little fluid out I was able to free up both Wheels. So do you think it's the right caliper that's seized up?? What makes both front wheels not turn in this situation? Almost wonder if I would have cracked the caliper bleeder on the left side a little I would have gotten the same result??
Thanks in advance for advice!
Both calipers need a rebuild or at least take apart and clean the innards. They’re not releasing because of crud between the seal packing, between the packing and the packing grooves (corrosion jacking) or both.
@@MotoRestoFL gotcha thanks man for the quick response!
@@MotoRestoFL $86/each caliper from Partszilla... If it were you, would go honda or do you have any experience with aftermarket that may be cheaper? Thanks!
@@Keyboardletters If that includes the piston then that'd be right in the ballpark for OEM. If not, I'd look for cheaper elsewhere, but be prepared the piston is corroded. Hopefully not. I checked the BrakeCrafters website, though they do list a Sportrax 250 EX, they don't show any caliper parts for that ATV. HOWEVER, do not despair.... using the Partzilla system, in the TRX250EX parts fiche, when I looked that the front caliper packing set, you scroll down the application list for which these parts fit (Honda often uses parts across many models) and the 1999 CBR900RR is one that takes the same packing (seals) allegedly. So then I went back to BrakeCrafters and looked that the 1999 CBR900RR and there are two options for you. First is this: www.brakecrafters.com/collections/1999-honda-cbr900rr/products/bc15n-single-1998-honda-cbr900rr which is the seals only. The other is this: www.brakecrafters.com/collections/1999-honda-cbr900rr/products/bc15npss-1998-honda-cbr900rr which is the seal and piston kit. Keep in mind, the CBR has two-piston calipers, so that is why on the first option you find two sets of seal packing (which is all you'd need with two-single piston calipers) and the second option, that is a kit for both front calipers on the CBR, thus it comes with four pistons and four seal packing sets. That's $105 bucks but you'd have enough parts for a rebuild and two sets for spares. Or, go with just the packing like in the first link. Again, looks like they're the same based upon the Partzilla application list.
I use BrakeCrafters for all my brake parts when possible. I have a video on my channel as to why: th-cam.com/video/QmWhtlSWIgE/w-d-xo.html
This is a bit of a crapshoot, the Partzilla system isn't always perfect but it's not wrong very often and I buy a lot of parts from them. I have cross-referenced this way a few times and it's worked out most of the time. But anyway, there's a couple options that is cheaper than nearly $90 bucks a side, betting that doesn't include pistons.
@@MotoRestoFL thank you very much sir for all the information and taking the time to share with me. I definitely thought that would be complete package piston and all but I looked again and believe you are right! I think I will try exactly what you did in the video first to shave some cash! Worst case if if get the pads out and can't get the piston u stuck I just have to drain the fluid and push the piston out with air and I seen in a Partszilla video on calipers.
Sorry for so much questions but we've done alot this week on the brakes and learned alot just by watching videos on TH-cam haha. Changed the carb and CAREFULLY put in a new petcock... Ruined last tank few years again trying to get it out as it became stripped etc. Ended up finding a 2012 tank on eBay after seeing how much a 2002 went for. After looking at pics many times to compare I took a shot and can say a 2012 sportrax 250ex gas rank fits a 2002!
Thanks again
Can they get stuck in the disengaged position as well? On my 300, the left front won't engage at all and the right works perfectly fine. Just trying to diagnose if it's the caliper or slave cylinder.
Sure. Could be corroded and locked up. But.... may also be a bad brake line. I have seen way more blocked up brake line (hoses) than calipers which won't move at all.
Excellent 👍
Thanks. Can't say it works every time, but does work to make a temporary repair just to move stuff around when they're really bad. Rebuild is always best practice when they're way worse than this was.
I have one that just wont retract. What could be obstructing? I have all new fluid in it, have flushed maybe 6oz of brake fluid through it and it is crystal clear, still no luck! Someone suggested the brake line may be occluded and to completely remove the line and try to blow air through it. Any thoughts? its a 2008 that was left untreated for a long long time!
Before you remove it, open the bleeder and try to compress the piston. But since it's been sitting a long while, remove the bleeder first and make sure it's not blocked. I have seen that before. If it won't budge with the bleeder open/removed, you simply have a stuck or seized caliper. And if it's that stuck, good luck getting it apart, it's likely scrap. So, if it moves and you can push the piston without using extreme force with the bleeder open, it's not the caliper, it's the line. Very possibly have a blockage and yes, I have seen that also. Cheers.
Was missing a bolt to attach it to Knucke it was the top one and caused it to fall out of place and the caliper ran into rim 🤦🏼♂️
Could be. This video was a long time ago. Thanks.
How did you remove the mount that the caliper floats on?
Don’t exactly remember. Typically they unbolt from the caliper bracket or it just slides off after removing the other bolt and rotating the caliper to clear the opposite side caliper fingers.
@MotoRestoFL I'm having the same issue. And I wish you showed it in your video. But I can't get the caliper off the floating bracket. And I have no idea how to get it off. It is frozen or I should say, it's a I can get little movement but that's it. Please help!!
What makes the caliper piston stay stuck in but when I put air compressor to it then it’s pops right out I don’t get it
Stay stuck in with what? Do you mean it stays stuck in when you try and use the brake hydraulic pressure to push out the caliper as shown in the video? If so, you have a problem up the line in the master cylinder or a bad hose/line. A brake system puts thousands of pounds of pressure out to that caliper, where an air compressor a hundred and twenty maybe. If the brake system itself can't push out a caliper removed from its rotor, but an air compressor will, you have a problem with the entire brake system somewhere.
@@MotoRestoFL yes if I take the line off and put my finger over it and pump the pedal I can feel pressure I put new master seals and the seals in the caliper look and feel ok and it doesn’t leak fluid
@@keithparady2594 well that’s a fairly invalid test. It may feel like good pressure but it’s probably not. Go back to basics. If the caliper piston(s) is/are not stuck and air pressure pops them out when separated from the brake system hydraulics, clearly you have an issue with such system. Remember, hydraulic systems require not only pressure but volume. I suspect you have a brake line or other part of the circuit blocked or partially blocked. I have recently seen a completely stopped up brake hose on a bike with dual front calipers. One hose for one side was fine, the other was so stopped up it required replacement so I replaced both. Make sure you are testing one half of a brake system like front dual calipers with one caliper still captured so you done lose fluid pressure with the other one moving. In other words I only remove and manually pump out calipers one at a time and for the second one, I rig up a plug on the banjo using a banjo bolt, seal washers and a nut to mimic it being still attached if you get my drift.
@@MotoRestoFL yes sir I’m picking up what ur putting down I’ve always been the type to fix what I have and then if it doesn’t work then I’ll maybe buy a new one lol. It’s just strange I took a caliper from my four wheeler and the hose that came with it and I know that one works and hooked it all up to the dirt bike and still nothing so it’s more than likely the master cylinder is something wrong but it’s a pretty simple mechanism not to many moving parts so I’m just completely stumped lol. But hey I really appreciate u actually responding back not to many people out there who do