A couple of weeks before I made this video, I changed out the fuel injectors with some cheap "AC Delco" ones from eBay. I fully tested the old ones as good and even made a video on it, however, I decided to still change them out. Well, after this Purge Valve replacement didn't fix my lean issue, I decided to put the old REAL AC Delco fuel injectors back in. BAM!! That fixed my lean running condition on bank 1 and bank 2 and it's been running great for about 200 miles already! Fuel trims look really good now! I just wanted to give you all an update. Thanks for watching!!👍
Thanks for moving the wiring harness out of the way. So many try to replace parts working around it and it only makes it harder. Working smart, I like it.
Thank you! There's times when it just makes sense to do the extra step to make the job easier. I've seen the opposite before too though, where someone will remove 10 (example) parts that they don't have to because they either don't have the correct tool or the correct knowledge to do the job a simpler way. Thanks for watching! 🙂
Thank you for this video!! Saved me 40 bucks. I was about to buy this because I'd heard it might be my issue, but your easy test proves that it's just fine.
I have a 2005 Buick Lesabre with P0455 code. I went to the purge valve and pulled one side of the tube off when the electrical connectin is. After it warms up I do get suction. And you said that's not good. Other videos say after the vehicle warms up you should get suction, and I do. That's the vacuum that's working. So why the difference in opinion?
If the electrical connector is disconnected from the canister purge valve, it should generally default to the closed position, meaning it should not have suction. However, I learned this from the Internet and maybe it can depend on the make and model of your vehicle and its specific purge valve design. That's the bulk of what I know about it. I hope that information helps you. Good luck and let me know if you figure it out! Thanks for watching!!
@@tonygonzalez7029 thank you, Tony! Make sure you drive it long enough for it to complete a "drive cycle". They can (and probably will) fail you for a smog check if at least 1 drive cycle isn't completed. They'll tell you something like, "come back after driving it 100 miles" (which could or could not be enough to complete a full drive cycle). Good luck brother!
Thanks 4this well done vid.. although should've shown us what engine sounds like after new cpv..and seems there's a very relevant question already posed here in comments: how can we tell if it's stuck in open or closed position? If there's still suction, that means it's stuck open?
Hey brother, thanks for the reply. Yeah, if theres suction iat that point in the video that I show, its stuck open. A few hours ago I answered that other question to the best of my knowledge! Thanks for watching and for the comment. 😊🦾
Thank you brother💪. Intake gaskets were one of the first things I replaced. Done before this video was made. I did finally get my trims correct. It was a process. I think I have a write up in one of these comments here or on my fuel injector cleaning video. Anyways, I've put at least a couple thousand miles in since I've fixed it and it's still running strong!! 💪🦾 Thank you again for the suggestion and thanks for watching!!
In my opinion, the next common thing anyone will tell you is to inspect the gas cap and the o-ring on it. To be on the safe side, everyone will tell you to replace it. I had an evap leak like that and to tell you the truth, what I did was put my smoke machine on the evap system. I don't know if that's a "smart" idea but that's what I did. I'm not saying that's the right thing to do, I'm just stating what I did. I connected the smoke machine and ran it and found that the evap leak was coming from the top of the gas tank. It turns out that the fuel pump assembly had a crack on top of it. Anyways, the smoke machine I have is this one from Amazon: amzn.to/3ysvKVY but it's currently unavailable. This is the one my dad used to have but I think he recently upgraded: amzn.to/3u9CnKo I have a smoke machine video but not on the evap system.
Did you happen to have any problems when adding fuel? Like when i go to the gas station and finish pumping i start the Yukon and it dies out. Immediately after, i restart the vehicle giving it some gas and it starts right up. Did you have anything liks that happen?
What symptoms did you have? We have a 08 Yukon with 6.2 and recently having hard starts and smells like fuel inside and outside but no check engine lights are on
I would check the fuel system and lines for leaks. I don't know if it's recommended so don't take my advice on this. I had that same thing happen to a car one time. I setup my smoke machine to the gas fill head and found out that I had a cracked fuel pump assembly. I have a video showing my smoke machine but not that exact procedure of doing that exact test. Good luck!
@@AE-ds8be after looking more underneath i seen gas pouring from top of gas tank. I havent had time to get it to mechanic to see if it is fuelline on pump assembly. Luckily it isnt one of our primary vehicles
@@jerrytipsword3033 that's good that you as least identified the problem area. Yeah, dropping the gas tank is definitely better to be done by someone with the proper equipment. I've done it myself of my 09 Yukon with some ratchet straps, after emptying the gas tank. It's fairly straight forward but maybe something that someone with a lift should do.
Good job nicely explained however I have the check engine light and auto zone said it was the canister but I tested but no suction what do you think it could be
Hey brother, if you tested this purge valve and there's no suction, it's probably good. They were probably talking about the vapor canister which is this one here. amzn.to/3p5YEZE This part is really easy to change out on this vehicle. You have to get under the vehicle and it's towards the back near the gas tank fill tube. You'll need to take the old one off and replace it with the new one and tywrap it or secure it in place somehow. Thanks for watching! Let me know how it turns out! 😃
@@kirkmcrae7684 anytime. 😎 But they told you it was the canister and they sold you one of these purge valves? If you ask them to scan it again you can get the code and look it up online. You can find out the most common fix for the code that its throwing.
@@kirkmcrae7684 I think the valve can also fail in the closed position so actually the purge valve might be bad even if it has no suction. My bad. I'm just curious why they said it was the canister. Getting the error code from them and looking it up online is probably a good route to take too.
I had the same exact issue on my yukon but it would finally start after trying to start it a couple of times. It might be the purge valve. I'd test it by following this video and seeing if it tests bad. I can't remember what fixed my issue exactly but I know it was one of three things. It was either this purge valve, the fuel pump or it was this canister. amzn.to/3p5YEZE I wish I could remember but I'm wanting to say it was either the purge valve in this video or it was that canister I linked. That issue would only happen right after I would refuel then it wouldn't happen again until I refueled again. Wish I could have given you my exact solution but it was one of those things. Good luck! Let me know what your fix ends up being and thanks for watching!! 🦾
Great question!!! I would pull it off and apply voltage to the terminals. 12 vdc. Check the wiring going into the valve to figure out which terminal is the + and which is the - . When applying 12v you should probably hear a click. If I did hear or didn't hear a click, I would still then test to see if it was opened by putting my mouth on one end and seeing if I could pull or push air through by blowing through it. You could also attach a handheld vacuum pump to accomplish the same thing. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching!!!
Hi I have a 08 Yukon Denali is there a pcv valve at the back of the motor? And what is the line called from the front of the purge valve to them top of the motor? Thanks
I'm pretty sure the PCV valve is located at the front of the motor on the passenger side. It should be connected to a small hose that's connected into the big air intake hose on top of the motor. Here's a picture of the hose on Amazon to get a visual. amzn.to/3Gki7f3 That other line you're talking about should be this one. I broke mine when I was removing my fuel injectors and had to replace it. Here it is also on Amazon: amzn.to/3KyIzE8 Thanks for watching! I hope my comment helps. Let me know! 😎
Thanks so much! The first picture you sent I already bought and couldn't figure out where it goes and the second picture is exactly what I need. Where does the other side go ot to of the part you replaced? Is there now pcv valve that that line goes to in the back?
@@davidsantelli hey brother I'm about to go to bed in a few minutes but are you saying that the small line come off of your big main intake line is running to the back of your motor?
@@davidsantelli also, if you're asking where that part that i broke goes, it goes right on the top of the motor. I'm pretty sure this video showed that. 🤔
Yes but when he unplugged the electrical connector while running it should have closed if it was working properly. This test verifies it is stuck open.
There are a few reasons why your gas gauge/meter doesn't work: A faulty fuel gauge sending unit: This is part of the fuel pump assembly and is located in the fuel tank and measures the level of fuel and sends that information to the gas gauge. If this unit is not working properly, the gas gauge will give a false reading. A damaged wire or loose connection: The fuel gauge sending unit is connected to the gas gauge by a wire. If this wire is damaged or the connection is loose, the gas gauge will not receive the correct information about the fuel level. A faulty gas gauge: The gas gauge itself can fail, leading to incorrect readings or no readings at all.
Edit: I didn't have a rough idle before this repair. I was changing this out to try and fix a lean condition. It's still running lean on banks 1 and 2. Original reply: It did not. I haven't been able to revisit my Yukon since this video but a couple of weeks before I replaced this purge valve, I replaced all fuel injectors with some cheap ones from eBay. I want to put the old ones back in before I do anymore troubleshooting. The old ones I fully tested as working and also cleaned them. I made a video on that. I know the old ones are good so I'm going to put those back in and see how she's running.
@@AE-ds8be clean ur throttle body that should fix it. Do you know what part number chevy silverado use for the purge valve? I change mine and notice that it wasting more gas, well not sure if it is cuz the ecu still not reading the cat and evap
@@559caliii thank for the suggestion!! I actually haven't tried that yet. I'll try that and let you know if that helps out or not. 😎👍 As far as for your chevy silverado, it might be the same part number as my Yukon, depending on the year and motor size. If you want to find out easily, I suggest going to rockauto.com and just typing your Year, make, and model and then your engine size in the search. Then type Purge Valve. It should pull up all compatible part numbers. Mine happens to be ACDELCO 2141680. Hope that helps! Good luck!!
Wait, I apologize. I didn't really have a rough idle before. It was idling rough in the video because I had disconnected that line before I started the vehicle. It actually runs pretty good. The reason I changed out the purge valve is because I'm trying to figure out why I'm running lean on banks 1 & 2. But no, this did not fix my lean condition.
QUESTION> > > I have a 2007 Yukon Denali 6.3 (4) that starts good, but idles rough sometimes ( wants to stall ), and chokes or pukes when fuel is introduced ----- feathering the fuel often helps bring up the rev - but giving even 1/4 pedal, makes it act like it is flooding ( or not GETTING any fuel - I can not tell which ___ no gas smell though ) I have replaced the MAS, throttle body sensor, fuel pump, relay, and prayer sheet - nothing has helped. It did backfire just prior, when I tromped on the gas = which makes me think that it could even be a timing issue, but the cam possition sensor bolt is SO rusted, that I can not get it out, and it holds not only the sensor on, but also the sensor shield... ... the purge valve, is on for tomorrow... ...Any OTHER ideas ????? I am thahpoet, using yahoo dott com
Hi Brian. I know you said you replaced the fuel pump but did you also check the fuel pressure at the rails? Or check fuel volume coming out of the fuel rails? You'd need to connect to the Schrader valve on the fuel rail and bypass the relay to turn the pump on (unless you have an expensive scan tool) I doubt thats it since you already replaced the fuel pump but it's always good to check there too. I'm wondering about the fuel injectors too. Maybe try running a couple of bottles of Seafoam fuel injector cleaner through your vehicle, maybe it'll help. If not, it might be worth it to just pull the injectors and test them all if you have time. I made a whole video on it on that exact vehicle. Not sure what else off of the top of my head, I'll think about it though.
What I found online: In a vehicle, the purge valve, also known as the canister purge valve, is a part of the evaporative emission control (EVAP) system. This valve opens at specific times to allow fuel vapors stored in the charcoal canister to be sent back to the engine to be burned, rather than releasing them into the environment. The timing and frequency of the purge valve opening depend on various factors: Engine Load and Temperature: The purge valve typically opens when the engine has reached its operating temperature and is running at a steady speed. It is less likely to open during cold starts or when the engine is idling. Fuel Vapor Pressure: The valve opens to regulate the pressure of the fuel vapors in the EVAP system. When the pressure reaches a certain level, the purge valve opens to relieve it. Vehicle's Emission Control Strategy: Different vehicles have different strategies programmed into the engine control module (ECM) for controlling emissions. This affects how often and under what conditions the purge valve opens. Driving Conditions: Normal driving conditions like highway driving often trigger the purge valve to open, whereas it might not open as frequently in stop-and-go traffic. Vehicle Make and Model: Different manufacturers design their EVAP systems differently, so the operation of the purge valve can vary from one vehicle to another. In summary, the operation of the purge valve is not based on a fixed time interval but rather on a combination of engine load, temperature, vapor pressure, and the vehicle's specific emission control strategy. It's part of a complex system controlled by the vehicle's computer, which decides the best time to open the valve to maintain efficient fuel usage and reduce emissions. Message ChatGPT… ChatGPT can make m
Hey Brother, great video. I had a code come up saying my purge valve was bad, I did the suction test you showed and my valve wasn't sucking in air so does that mean it's good and the code is talking about something else?
I saw on another video that some of these valves open and some others close when power is applied. Maybe check that it's getting power before replacing it.
I apologize for the delayed reply. I just answered this on another comment on this video so I will copy and paste my response. Here it is: Great question!!! I would pull it off and apply voltage to the terminals. 12 vdc. Check the wiring going into the valve to figure out which terminal is the + and which is the - . When applying 12v you should probably hear a click. If I did hear or didn't hear a click, I would still then test to see if it was opened by putting my mouth on one end and seeing if I could pull or push air through by blowing through it. You could also attach a handheld vacuum pump to accomplish the same thing. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching!!!
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 88 | คู่เอก "ป้อมเพชร vs อัสลามจอน"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1ZqTVVbMgbo/mqdefault.jpg)
Changed out the purge valve and after getting gas, my car starts up easily 😊
A couple of weeks before I made this video, I changed out the fuel injectors with some cheap "AC Delco" ones from eBay. I fully tested the old ones as good and even made a video on it, however, I decided to still change them out. Well, after this Purge Valve replacement didn't fix my lean issue, I decided to put the old REAL AC Delco fuel injectors back in. BAM!! That fixed my lean running condition on bank 1 and bank 2 and it's been running great for about 200 miles already! Fuel trims look really good now! I just wanted to give you all an update. Thanks for watching!!👍
Update to this comment. I've now put a few hundred miles on this vehicle (maybe a couple thousand) and it's still running like a champ!! 🏆
@@AE-ds8be Appreciate it the update. Definitely doing this on my 13
@@AE-ds8bedo u know what’s the sensor u disconnect first on top of the intake manifold?
Thanks for moving the wiring harness out of the way. So many try to replace parts working around it and it only makes it harder. Working smart, I like it.
Thank you! There's times when it just makes sense to do the extra step to make the job easier. I've seen the opposite before too though, where someone will remove 10 (example) parts that they don't have to because they either don't have the correct tool or the correct knowledge to do the job a simpler way. Thanks for watching! 🙂
Thank you for this video!! Saved me 40 bucks. I was about to buy this because I'd heard it might be my issue, but your easy test proves that it's just fine.
@@TheBrianKelley1 awesome man!! Thanks for watching!!
Excellent video, better than another one I found because you have a lot of great authentic hands-on demonstration. Plus that hairy forearm was fun!
@@JayBobJayBob 😂🤣 Thanks!! 😂🤣💪
Great video and great presentation very well explained and thank you
Thank you for this video, it helped alot
Muy bueno su video muchas gracias
Thanks for the vid, I just verified mine was bad!
Very informative video, thank you for giving us this useful information about the PCV valve.
Thank you bro this video is very informative i am from Punjab India and i subscribed this channel
Thank you brother!
Awesome, thanks injust got this code on my 04 xl also had the p0171 lean...
Anytime Tony G! Thanks for watching!
Thank you, good video and right to the point, so thanks again.
Thanks bro!! You're a life saver. Keep posting vids💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾
I definitely will! Thank you for the comment and thanks for watching!! 🤜🤛
I have a 2005 Buick Lesabre with P0455 code. I went to the purge valve and pulled one side of the tube off when the electrical connectin is. After it warms up I do get suction. And you said that's not good. Other videos say after the vehicle warms up you should get suction, and I do. That's the vacuum that's working. So why the difference in opinion?
If the electrical connector is disconnected from the canister purge valve, it should generally default to the closed position, meaning it should not have suction.
However, I learned this from the Internet and maybe it can depend on the make and model of your vehicle and its specific purge valve design.
That's the bulk of what I know about it. I hope that information helps you. Good luck and let me know if you figure it out!
Thanks for watching!!
thank you for your video . what happens in the test if the valve is stoked closed?
Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us. 😊
Of course!! Thanks for watching and thank you for the comment! 😊
How many miles do I have to drive for the check engine light to go off after I replace it
Damn!!! Im green again that 0496 went away and no more codes!!!! Thanks!!!
Awesome! Yw!
Your the man!!!! Crossing my fingers nothing else happens overnight lol and i take it to get it smogged...following your channel too!
@@tonygonzalez7029 thank you, Tony! Make sure you drive it long enough for it to complete a "drive cycle".
They can (and probably will) fail you for a smog check if at least 1 drive cycle isn't completed. They'll tell you something like, "come back after driving it 100 miles" (which could or could not be enough to complete a full drive cycle). Good luck brother!
@@AE-ds8be ahhhh damn ...thanks!
@@tonygonzalez7029 of course, anytime! 👍
Thanks great video. Just a question.i replaced that valve 2 times. And still have the issue. Lines look good on the top part. What else I have check
Thank you!
Thanks 4this well done vid.. although should've shown us what engine sounds like after new cpv..and seems there's a very relevant question already posed here in comments: how can we tell if it's stuck in open or closed position? If there's still suction, that means it's stuck open?
Hey brother, thanks for the reply. Yeah, if theres suction iat that point in the video that I show, its stuck open. A few hours ago I answered that other question to the best of my knowledge! Thanks for watching and for the comment. 😊🦾
intake gaskets are common leak sounds like with that high of fuel trims you have a bad vac leak, check fuel press during driving too thats bad lean
Thank you brother💪. Intake gaskets were one of the first things I replaced. Done before this video was made. I did finally get my trims correct. It was a process. I think I have a write up in one of these comments here or on my fuel injector cleaning video.
Anyways, I've put at least a couple thousand miles in since I've fixed it and it's still running strong!! 💪🦾
Thank you again for the suggestion and thanks for watching!!
I have replaced this valve and I still get p0455 but it comes back after a few days
In my opinion, the next common thing anyone will tell you is to inspect the gas cap and the o-ring on it. To be on the safe side, everyone will tell you to replace it.
I had an evap leak like that and to tell you the truth, what I did was put my smoke machine on the evap system. I don't know if that's a "smart" idea but that's what I did. I'm not saying that's the right thing to do, I'm just stating what I did.
I connected the smoke machine and ran it and found that the evap leak was coming from the top of the gas tank. It turns out that the fuel pump assembly had a crack on top of it.
Anyways, the smoke machine I have is this one from Amazon: amzn.to/3ysvKVY but it's currently unavailable.
This is the one my dad used to have but I think he recently upgraded: amzn.to/3u9CnKo
I have a smoke machine video but not on the evap system.
Super nice video and explanation. which camera you are using. super clear.
Thank you!! Sony Ax-33 for this video with a wireless lav mic setup. Links are in the description. Thanks for watching! 😊
Excellent video...
Thanks brother!
Did you happen to have any problems when adding fuel? Like when i go to the gas station and finish pumping i start the Yukon and it dies out. Immediately after, i restart the vehicle giving it some gas and it starts right up. Did you have anything liks that happen?
i fixed code po446. i noticed a bad tear in vacume hose and replaced it. then erased code.
Thank you my friend
Did the bad valve give and check engine codes?
Dude, thanks for this video. It helped a lot.
Awesome brother! Glad it helped! Thanks for the comment! 😊
Do you have to reprogram it after you change the valve ?
Does engine light have to be reset ? After replacing?
Why didn't you show results of the new one
Good information.
What symptoms did you have? We have a 08 Yukon with 6.2 and recently having hard starts and smells like fuel inside and outside but no check engine lights are on
I would check the fuel system and lines for leaks. I don't know if it's recommended so don't take my advice on this. I had that same thing happen to a car one time. I setup my smoke machine to the gas fill head and found out that I had a cracked fuel pump assembly. I have a video showing my smoke machine but not that exact procedure of doing that exact test. Good luck!
@@AE-ds8be after looking more underneath i seen gas pouring from top of gas tank. I havent had time to get it to mechanic to see if it is fuelline on pump assembly. Luckily it isnt one of our primary vehicles
@@jerrytipsword3033 that's good that you as least identified the problem area. Yeah, dropping the gas tank is definitely better to be done by someone with the proper equipment. I've done it myself of my 09 Yukon with some ratchet straps, after emptying the gas tank. It's fairly straight forward but maybe something that someone with a lift should do.
Great vid! Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Just subscribed I gotta change a couple thing’s on my 07 Yukon
Awesome brother!! Thanks for subbing!! :)
Good job nicely explained however I have the check engine light and auto zone said it was the canister but I tested but no suction what do you think it could be
Hey brother, if you tested this purge valve and there's no suction, it's probably good. They were probably talking about the vapor canister which is this one here. amzn.to/3p5YEZE
This part is really easy to change out on this vehicle. You have to get under the vehicle and it's towards the back near the gas tank fill tube. You'll need to take the old one off and replace it with the new one and tywrap it or secure it in place somehow. Thanks for watching! Let me know how it turns out! 😃
@@AE-ds8be thanks for your quick response I'll be returning the part today and try this one
@@kirkmcrae7684 anytime. 😎
But they told you it was the canister and they sold you one of these purge valves? If you ask them to scan it again you can get the code and look it up online. You can find out the most common fix for the code that its throwing.
@@kirkmcrae7684 I think the valve can also fail in the closed position so actually the purge valve might be bad even if it has no suction. My bad.
I'm just curious why they said it was the canister. Getting the error code from them and looking it up online is probably a good route to take too.
@@AE-ds8be alot of inexperienced people working at part stores nowadays but it's okay. Thanks again
Thank you so much
my 6.2 chevy camaro stalls after refueling and can't start ... could it be the purge valve ?
I had the same exact issue on my yukon but it would finally start after trying to start it a couple of times. It might be the purge valve. I'd test it by following this video and seeing if it tests bad. I can't remember what fixed my issue exactly but I know it was one of three things. It was either this purge valve, the fuel pump or it was this canister. amzn.to/3p5YEZE
I wish I could remember but I'm wanting to say it was either the purge valve in this video or it was that canister I linked.
That issue would only happen right after I would refuel then it wouldn't happen again until I refueled again.
Wish I could have given you my exact solution but it was one of those things. Good luck! Let me know what your fix ends up being and thanks for watching!! 🦾
@@AE-ds8be thank you very much. I am going to replace purge valve along with the fuel pump and canister cleaning
You're bracket doesn't have a locking clip on it? Mine does. Just have to pry it out with a screwdriver.
No. Mine didn't. 😲
Interesting. Thanks for the comment. Thanks for watching!
I'm getting fumes in the cabin someone told me this might be the issue or the whole new line under the truck.....
What do you mean when you say you're getting fumes inside of the cabin. What kind of fumes?
My hero
How can you tell if the purge valve is stuck closed instead of opened
Great question!!! I would pull it off and apply voltage to the terminals. 12 vdc. Check the wiring going into the valve to figure out which terminal is the + and which is the - . When applying 12v you should probably hear a click. If I did hear or didn't hear a click, I would still then test to see if it was opened by putting my mouth on one end and seeing if I could pull or push air through by blowing through it. You could also attach a handheld vacuum pump to accomplish the same thing. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching!!!
Hi I have a 08 Yukon Denali is there a pcv valve at the back of the motor? And what is the line called from the front of the purge valve to them top of the motor? Thanks
I'm pretty sure the PCV valve is located at the front of the motor on the passenger side. It should be connected to a small hose that's connected into the big air intake hose on top of the motor. Here's a picture of the hose on Amazon to get a visual. amzn.to/3Gki7f3
That other line you're talking about should be this one. I broke mine when I was removing my fuel injectors and had to replace it. Here it is also on Amazon: amzn.to/3KyIzE8
Thanks for watching! I hope my comment helps. Let me know! 😎
BTW, thanks for the sub too!! 🦾
Thanks so much! The first picture you sent I already bought and couldn't figure out where it goes and the second picture is exactly what I need. Where does the other side go ot to of the part you replaced? Is there now pcv valve that that line goes to in the back?
@@davidsantelli hey brother I'm about to go to bed in a few minutes but are you saying that the small line come off of your big main intake line is running to the back of your motor?
@@davidsantelli also, if you're asking where that part that i broke goes, it goes right on the top of the motor. I'm pretty sure this video showed that. 🤔
Thank you
YW! Thanks for watching! 🙂
isnt it supposed to be open valve when turned on?
Yes but when he unplugged the electrical connector while running it should have closed if it was working properly. This test verifies it is stuck open.
@@eostrike thank you sir
I had a problems like these:
1.gas filling problem
2.gas metre didn't work
3.my car smell like gas
Can you help me how to fix it?
There are a few reasons why your gas gauge/meter doesn't work:
A faulty fuel gauge sending unit: This is part of the fuel pump assembly and is located in the fuel tank and measures the level of fuel and sends that information to the gas gauge. If this unit is not working properly, the gas gauge will give a false reading.
A damaged wire or loose connection: The fuel gauge sending unit is connected to the gas gauge by a wire. If this wire is damaged or the connection is loose, the gas gauge will not receive the correct information about the fuel level.
A faulty gas gauge: The gas gauge itself can fail, leading to incorrect readings or no readings at all.
@@AE-ds8be thank you for your time,I have poor knowledge on my Maruti 800
Did that fix your rough idle
Edit: I didn't have a rough idle before this repair. I was changing this out to try and fix a lean condition. It's still running lean on banks 1 and 2.
Original reply:
It did not. I haven't been able to revisit my Yukon since this video but a couple of weeks before I replaced this purge valve, I replaced all fuel injectors with some cheap ones from eBay. I want to put the old ones back in before I do anymore troubleshooting. The old ones I fully tested as working and also cleaned them. I made a video on that. I know the old ones are good so I'm going to put those back in and see how she's running.
@@AE-ds8be clean ur throttle body that should fix it. Do you know what part number chevy silverado use for the purge valve? I change mine and notice that it wasting more gas, well not sure if it is cuz the ecu still not reading the cat and evap
@@559caliii thank for the suggestion!! I actually haven't tried that yet. I'll try that and let you know if that helps out or not. 😎👍
As far as for your chevy silverado, it might be the same part number as my Yukon, depending on the year and motor size. If you want to find out easily, I suggest going to rockauto.com and just typing your Year, make, and model and then your engine size in the search. Then type Purge Valve. It should pull up all compatible part numbers. Mine happens to be ACDELCO 2141680.
Hope that helps! Good luck!!
@@AE-ds8be thanks
Wait, I apologize. I didn't really have a rough idle before. It was idling rough in the video because I had disconnected that line before I started the vehicle. It actually runs pretty good. The reason I changed out the purge valve is because I'm trying to figure out why I'm running lean on banks 1 & 2. But no, this did not fix my lean condition.
QUESTION> > >
I have a 2007 Yukon Denali 6.3 (4) that starts good, but idles rough sometimes ( wants to stall ), and chokes or pukes when fuel is introduced ----- feathering the fuel often helps bring up the rev - but giving even 1/4 pedal, makes it act like it is flooding ( or not GETTING any fuel - I can not tell which ___ no gas smell though )
I have replaced the MAS, throttle body sensor, fuel pump, relay, and prayer sheet - nothing has helped. It did backfire just prior, when I tromped on the gas = which makes me think that it could even be a timing issue, but the cam possition sensor bolt is SO rusted, that I can not get it out, and it holds not only the sensor on, but also the sensor shield...
... the purge valve, is on for tomorrow... ...Any OTHER ideas ????? I am thahpoet, using yahoo dott com
Hi Brian. I know you said you replaced the fuel pump but did you also check the fuel pressure at the rails? Or check fuel volume coming out of the fuel rails? You'd need to connect to the Schrader valve on the fuel rail and bypass the relay to turn the pump on (unless you have an expensive scan tool)
I doubt thats it since you already replaced the fuel pump but it's always good to check there too.
I'm wondering about the fuel injectors too. Maybe try running a couple of bottles of Seafoam fuel injector cleaner through your vehicle, maybe it'll help.
If not, it might be worth it to just pull the injectors and test them all if you have time. I made a whole video on it on that exact vehicle.
Not sure what else off of the top of my head, I'll think about it though.
That white locking piece CAN FALL OUT. Dont ask me how i know.😅
I thought you was going show us how the new one sounds with the engine on with the hose off it before putting everything back together 🤷🏽♂️
Dang D Taylor, I didn't even think about that. Too bad I can't edit this video and add that in to the end. Thanks for watching bro.
6:28
@@Avilez1 🤣😂
Broooo u Shoulda Found sum other Words to Use Besides Suck N Blow 😂😂😂😂 but Great Vid tho👍🏽 lolz
😂😂😂😂😂 yeah I bet u can lol
🤣😂🤣😂 I guess I set myself up for that one.
how often does the purge valve open up? or when does it open up? Thank you
What I found online:
In a vehicle, the purge valve, also known as the canister purge valve, is a part of the evaporative emission control (EVAP) system. This valve opens at specific times to allow fuel vapors stored in the charcoal canister to be sent back to the engine to be burned, rather than releasing them into the environment. The timing and frequency of the purge valve opening depend on various factors:
Engine Load and Temperature: The purge valve typically opens when the engine has reached its operating temperature and is running at a steady speed. It is less likely to open during cold starts or when the engine is idling.
Fuel Vapor Pressure: The valve opens to regulate the pressure of the fuel vapors in the EVAP system. When the pressure reaches a certain level, the purge valve opens to relieve it.
Vehicle's Emission Control Strategy: Different vehicles have different strategies programmed into the engine control module (ECM) for controlling emissions. This affects how often and under what conditions the purge valve opens.
Driving Conditions: Normal driving conditions like highway driving often trigger the purge valve to open, whereas it might not open as frequently in stop-and-go traffic.
Vehicle Make and Model: Different manufacturers design their EVAP systems differently, so the operation of the purge valve can vary from one vehicle to another.
In summary, the operation of the purge valve is not based on a fixed time interval but rather on a combination of engine load, temperature, vapor pressure, and the vehicle's specific emission control strategy. It's part of a complex system controlled by the vehicle's computer, which decides the best time to open the valve to maintain efficient fuel usage and reduce emissions.
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Hey Brother, great video. I had a code come up saying my purge valve was bad, I did the suction test you showed and my valve wasn't sucking in air so does that mean it's good and the code is talking about something else?
I saw on another video that some of these valves open and some others close when power is applied. Maybe check that it's getting power before replacing it.
@@shinola228 will do, thanks!
I apologize for the delayed reply. I just answered this on another comment on this video so I will copy and paste my response. Here it is:
Great question!!! I would pull it off and apply voltage to the terminals. 12 vdc. Check the wiring going into the valve to figure out which terminal is the + and which is the - . When applying 12v you should probably hear a click. If I did hear or didn't hear a click, I would still then test to see if it was opened by putting my mouth on one end and seeing if I could pull or push air through by blowing through it. You could also attach a handheld vacuum pump to accomplish the same thing. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching!!!