Awesome, I have the same bike, same air filter but with Pro-race exhaust, nice to see how much this thing makes stock with just slip on and air filter.
Great video Dale, Bought one of these weekend just gone so very informative on what just a couple of mods can do. I have an exhaust on order already lol so will start to look at filters next, Just exited as not even run in yet haha but approx 208ps is pretty cool :-)
Hello Dale awesome video,I have the same bike debating on flashing my ECU still in the air about.I think 180hp is plenty of power if I flash it and it goes to 210+ it will be a wheelie monster.
Thank you 2098, Call Chris Moore and let him know I sent you. I would request leaving 1st and 2nd gear alone, then bring the throttle blade opening in progressively in 3rd up to 100% to red line. 4th -6th 100 %. 100% in 1st & 2nd would be useless on this stock wheel base bike IMO. Cheers Dale
I don't think so Mario, I think it outflows the air flow demand with the stock ECU neutered throttle blades. Where the Sprint Race filter will shine is when you get 100% throttle and a few more rpm to builds a bit more boost on the top. Cheers DW
In the end there I got the impression that you are not a big fan of flashing ECU? On this model it is very much needed for a significant increase. One thing is the ETV closing down and never really go full open anywhere. What's even "worse" is the timing. When the ETV are closing at higher revs, the Kawasaki engineers found it reasonable to pull out lots of timing. All the way down to about 12-14 degrees (it is different pr. cylinder), probably to avoid any issues with detonations due to high intake temps. Better safe than sorry :) And the static compression is higher on the Z H2 and H2S/SE vs "plain" H2, so it is a wise precaution I think. 8.5:1 (H2) vs 11.2:1 (Z H2). I bought a tune from SLR-tuning on my Z H2, because I was impatient waiting for Woolich "cracking" the ECU. (Dimsport was the first to crack it, selling those "handhelds"). On that tune my Z H2 made 249hp at 12.800rpm, 238 at 12.000rpm. When Woolich finally got the ECU sorted I switched to Woolich, where I could verify/tune the maps myself. I was obviously a bit more "cautions" as I lost 13hp, "only" 225hp at 12.000rpm. I did not touch the fueling as it is so rich stock (safe margin), but altered the timing on top after advice from Ben at Extreme Creations (AUS) from whom I bought the intercooler kit. I know from helping a local tuner with a Z H2 that unless you set the timing on top to 20 degrees it will not make 200hp. Just one/two degrees more yields much increase on the risk of detonation. I always use premium fuel on my Z H2 (98RON here in Norway). Almost everyone that tune ECU's, professionally or amateurs, will not share anything regarding tunes. The only one that gave advice was Ben at Extreme Creations. Much helpful.
Hi TL, All good info and I consider a fan and great guy. I think you may have got bored and jumped around in my video lol.. I fully intend to re flash the ECU. I mentioned about the throttle blades being neutered several times at different rpms, the ZH2 having more compression, the injectors being different than the H2, and how careful one needs to be with the timing with no intercooler. I also mentioned the best we have here is 91 octane unleaded, which I believe is 95 RON ? I will most likely go with Chris Moore on the ECU flash. I've worked with Chris in the past and he has been tuning the ZH2 since they came out, and it will be the most cost effective. Keep in mind I need it to be totally safe with 91 octane, and if it makes 218 or 230 HP that will be enough for my needs. I guarantee how the bike sits right now with the stock restriction, if had more wheel base and proper gearing the bike would run at least 9.80s with me on it. We will see next season how it all pans out and how we can do with this budget build. I've also watched Ben at custom creations a couple years now. That man is incredible and does beautiful work. Cheers DW
@@DaleWalkerHoleshot No, no! I watched the whole video. Don't get bored watching your videos. 🤗I just got sort of hung up of the last part where it sounded like you did not want to flash the ECU. I am pretty sure you could do this better than anybody (but it is a painstaking slow process compared to piggy-back tuning). Best of both worlds perhaps? 😊
20° is the max safe timing before detonation ? what do you think of the bren tune stage 2 he say at 240 it's totally safe (without intercoller....) and there's still room for more when chris moore seem a lot more cautious and didn't go above 225 does than mean you can't get safe 240/250hp with woolish ? just want to know what's the maximum safe power i could get out of it with just a slipon and dna or sprint air filter (but no intercooler don't want to drill the airbox)
I'm not critiquing Dale (and this is coming from someone that's extremely anal about doing everything consistently), but I rarely do three consecutive pulls on boosted bikes simply because they always make less power as the charge temperature increases. I'm sorry I don't know you better (and with 45+ years of drag racing myself I'm sure that's only because I've always lived way over here in FL) but JFYI, IMO the Woolich Log boxes (with Wide Band O2) are worth their weight in gold just for the real world, on board data they record. I became a *serious Data-holic* many years ago when I started tuning Holley EFI (and others like Maxx and FuelTech) stand alone ECUs and my Woolich Log Box pretty much stays on my best friend's ZX14R Turbo when I'm not using it to flash stock ECUs (that's me on his 14R in my profile picture). I actually do all of the tuning on John's 14R with PCV Fuel and Ignition modules but the per-gear track tuning wouldn't be possible without the Log Box data...
Nice KC, its amazing what the Maxx & Fuel Tach ECUs can do. I like doing 3 pulls, and this thing only makes about 13 PSI. What I'm anal about is my dyno room and a repeatable cool down time. This bike is just play toy, and it will stay on 91 pump gas, and stock timing. I want to see how quick this old dude can go on being a budget build. I will be playing with this one, and my early 90s Kosman Pro mod GS Ratzuki next year. Nice pass on the ZX14, nice to have those cubes with lots of grunt to run low boost and still haul ass. I never got all the way back east. I rode for Sandy Kosman for 10 years mostly out here KC. We were the first to go on the 7s on gas in 1980 on a small tire foot shifted Kawasaki funny bike. Then in 87 I managed to go 7.96 / 175 on our first GS pro street bike. No shock, and Single Stage NOS. Those were the days ! Cheers Dale
I lost the run to the Eddie current dyno brake shutting the data off. I did see it flash 176 before that happened. Pretty close to my best number, Cheers Dale
Super close, I've found 5000 feet or above is when it starts to effect the tune. I will most likely work with Chris Moore on this one on my own bike only. DW
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Thank you for the video. I see similar trends when measuring H2 SX
Glad you enjoyed it the Vid Alex. I know its long, but I always think its neat to show it all like you were in the dyno room with me. DW
Awesome, I have the same bike, same air filter but with Pro-race exhaust, nice to see how much this thing makes stock with just slip on and air filter.
Thanks, I will be adding the UK Lextek 4-2-1 front header next as stand alone dyno test. Then re-flash tune as the last step. Cheers Dale
Great video Dale, Bought one of these weekend just gone so very informative on what just a couple of mods can do. I have an exhaust on order already lol so will start to look at filters next, Just exited as not even run in yet haha but approx 208ps is pretty cool :-)
Ha ‘The flying brick’ how apt!😁👊
Hello Dale awesome video,I have the same bike debating on flashing my ECU still in the air about.I think 180hp is plenty of power if I flash it and it goes to 210+ it will be a wheelie monster.
Thank you 2098, Call Chris Moore and let him know I sent you. I would request leaving 1st and 2nd gear alone, then bring the throttle blade opening in progressively in 3rd up to 100% to red line. 4th -6th 100 %. 100% in 1st & 2nd would be useless on this stock wheel base bike IMO. Cheers Dale
I wonder if eliminating the air filters all together would gain a few more hp. Just for comparison of course! 178hp/180mph are pretty sweet numbers!
I don't think so Mario, I think it outflows the air flow demand with the stock ECU neutered throttle blades. Where the Sprint Race filter will shine is when you get 100% throttle and a few more rpm to builds a bit more boost on the top. Cheers DW
In the end there I got the impression that you are not a big fan of flashing ECU? On this model it is very much needed for a significant increase.
One thing is the ETV closing down and never really go full open anywhere. What's even "worse" is the timing. When the ETV are closing at higher revs, the Kawasaki engineers found it reasonable to pull out lots of timing. All the way down to about 12-14 degrees (it is different pr. cylinder), probably to avoid any issues with detonations due to high intake temps. Better safe than sorry :)
And the static compression is higher on the Z H2 and H2S/SE vs "plain" H2, so it is a wise precaution I think. 8.5:1 (H2) vs 11.2:1 (Z H2).
I bought a tune from SLR-tuning on my Z H2, because I was impatient waiting for Woolich "cracking" the ECU. (Dimsport was the first to crack it, selling those "handhelds").
On that tune my Z H2 made 249hp at 12.800rpm, 238 at 12.000rpm. When Woolich finally got the ECU sorted I switched to Woolich, where I could verify/tune the maps myself.
I was obviously a bit more "cautions" as I lost 13hp, "only" 225hp at 12.000rpm. I did not touch the fueling as it is so rich stock (safe margin), but altered the timing on top after advice from Ben at Extreme Creations (AUS) from whom I bought the intercooler kit.
I know from helping a local tuner with a Z H2 that unless you set the timing on top to 20 degrees it will not make 200hp. Just one/two degrees more yields much increase on the risk of detonation. I always use premium fuel on my Z H2 (98RON here in Norway).
Almost everyone that tune ECU's, professionally or amateurs, will not share anything regarding tunes. The only one that gave advice was Ben at Extreme Creations. Much helpful.
Hi TL, All good info and I consider a fan and great guy. I think you may have got bored and jumped around in my video lol.. I fully intend to re flash the ECU. I mentioned about the throttle blades being neutered several times at different rpms, the ZH2 having more compression, the injectors being different than the H2, and how careful one needs to be with the timing with no intercooler. I also mentioned the best we have here is 91 octane unleaded, which I believe is 95 RON ?
I will most likely go with Chris Moore on the ECU flash. I've worked with Chris in the past and he has been tuning the ZH2 since they came out, and it will be the most cost effective. Keep in mind I need it to be totally safe with 91 octane, and if it makes 218 or 230 HP that will be enough for my needs. I guarantee how the bike sits right now with the stock restriction, if had more wheel base and proper gearing the bike would run at least 9.80s with me on it. We will see next season how it all pans out and how we can do with this budget build. I've also watched Ben at custom creations a couple years now. That man is incredible and does beautiful work. Cheers DW
@@DaleWalkerHoleshot No, no! I watched the whole video. Don't get bored watching your videos. 🤗I just got sort of hung up of the last part where it sounded like you did not want to flash the ECU. I am pretty sure you could do this better than anybody (but it is a painstaking slow process compared to piggy-back tuning). Best of both worlds perhaps? 😊
20° is the max safe timing before detonation ?
what do you think of the bren tune stage 2 he say at 240 it's totally safe (without intercoller....) and there's still room for more when chris moore seem a lot more cautious and didn't go above 225
does than mean you can't get safe 240/250hp with woolish ?
just want to know what's the maximum safe power i could get out of it with just a slipon and dna or sprint air filter (but no intercooler don't want to drill the airbox)
I'm not critiquing Dale (and this is coming from someone that's extremely anal about doing everything consistently), but I rarely do three
consecutive pulls on boosted bikes simply because they always make less power as the charge temperature increases.
I'm sorry I don't know you better (and with 45+ years of drag racing myself I'm sure that's only because I've always lived way over here in FL) but JFYI,
IMO the Woolich Log boxes (with Wide Band O2) are worth their weight in gold just for the real world, on board data they record.
I became a *serious Data-holic* many years ago when I started tuning Holley EFI (and others like Maxx and FuelTech) stand alone ECUs and my
Woolich Log Box pretty much stays on my best friend's ZX14R Turbo when I'm not using it to flash stock ECUs (that's me on his 14R in my profile picture).
I actually do all of the tuning on John's 14R with PCV Fuel and Ignition modules but the per-gear track tuning wouldn't be possible without the Log Box data...
Nice KC, its amazing what the Maxx & Fuel Tach ECUs can do. I like doing 3 pulls, and this thing only makes about 13 PSI. What I'm anal about is my dyno room and a repeatable cool down time. This bike is just play toy, and it will stay on 91 pump gas, and stock timing. I want to see how quick this old dude can go on being a budget build. I will be playing with this one, and my early 90s Kosman Pro mod GS Ratzuki next year. Nice pass on the ZX14, nice to have those cubes with lots of grunt to run low boost and still haul ass.
I never got all the way back east. I rode for Sandy Kosman for 10 years mostly out here KC. We were the first to go on the 7s on gas in 1980 on a small tire foot shifted Kawasaki funny bike. Then in 87 I managed to go 7.96 / 175 on our first GS pro street bike. No shock, and Single Stage NOS. Those were the days ! Cheers Dale
just wondering what H.P and tor. numbers were in 6th gear? Compared to 5th
I lost the run to the Eddie current dyno brake shutting the data off. I did see it flash 176 before that happened. Pretty close to my best number, Cheers Dale
If a bike was tuned at 4500 above sea level like where you're at, would it still be correct at sea level?
Super close, I've found 5000 feet or above is when it starts to effect the tune. I will most likely work with Chris Moore on this one on my own bike only. DW
The guy that dynoed my turbo busa did his pulls in secound gear and i do not really know why?
OMG rock sorry to hear that, wheel spin city and way to short of a pull in 2nd gear.