DIY Tritoon Build - Episode 3 - Looking More Like a Tritoon
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.พ. 2025
- In Episode 3 we get to the furniture, railings, swim ladder, and even the 200 hp Suzuki. It's starting to look a lot more like a nice tritoon at this point, but there's lots left to be done that'll come in the next episode, including the boat's first time on the water! Be sure to subscribe to continue seeing our progress on this project and others!
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Love the black powder coat
Thanks! It was well worth the added cost to have it customized just how we wanted it.
Most underrated channel on TH-cam. Amazing content. I’m baffled you’re not at 400k subs yet. I give it a year.
Thanks so much for the kind words. We will keep posting and sharing as much info as possible! If people like it we hope they’ll subscribe and follow along!!
@@tomspontoons sent you a message on IG. T shirt design for the channel. 😂
@@brybino Dying laughing!! You know we're making those at some point...maybe our subscribers would want one to help support the channel?!? And we'll need one with "Always Add A Washer" !
Starburst side huh? What flavor? 😂
Keep the videos coming , love them!
For river check out great day load-a-pup , it hooks onto your ladder and makes a flat platform for doggie to get back in the boat
Haha, glad you caught that! We have plenty of goofy terms around the shop, gotta keep things fun!
YES "TEXAS FOREVER"......way to be thinking
Thanks for watching!!!
This has been a great build to watch, great work!
Thanks!! Episode 4 will be shared later this week. Then the final episode will walk through the finished project, prop selection, and a breakdown of project costs!!
Great video as usual! Do you need to use sealant when mounting the outboard to the transom on a pontoon since water can flow in and out of the transom?
I don't use any sealant for pontoon transoms. Only time is when installing on a center pontoon transom like this one where water can get into a cavity that's meant to stay dry. Great question!
Why the bottom of the deck is not treated? Is it exposed wood?
The plywood is CCA treated the whole way through. It can be exposed to the elements with zero issues. We did underskin the bottom to reduce drag and it also keeps spray from hitting the plywood.
This channel has been one of my favorite finds! We've been kicking around jumping into a restoration project and you guys are very insightful. Thanks for sharing the hard work!
Thank so much for watching! Pontoon projects are a lot of work, and can take considerable time…but the fun that can be had on a pontoon and the time shared on it with friends and family is worth all the work and time! Best of luck!
Love the powder coat trim, and the valuable information ... Thank you Tom and Corey 👍
Thanks! Still can’t wait to get your last couple seats in the boat!!!
These videos are great. I haven't been able to find a pontoon boat that my wife and I like enough to buy, and the only ones with some of the features we want are wayyy to expensive. Thinking this will be my next project. time to find one that's been left to die with good pontoons, just going to buy the skeleton.
We've made some folks extremely happy over the last few years with what's possible with aftermarket products for their 10, 20, 30, 40, and even 50 year old pontoon boats. I usually recommend finding something from the late 1990s or early 2000s. That's when the toons were bigger diameter (at least 23" for better buoyancy) and the structure was starting to improve to handle bigger water and more HP. Typing this, it sounds like I need to do a video covering the topic!
That’s the interior Iv been wanting and waiting to come in stock Tom! #JealousyIsReal looks nice y’all
Totally get it! We’ve had 99% of it in stock waiting for this build from their initial order over a year ago. They’ll have it soon enough and then it’ll be a regularly stocked thing. Awesome company pushing what possible for the pontoon refurb industry!
Do you bolt or screw the deck trim/rub rails down? I just ordered some from PontoonStuff with your code and wasn't sure which way i should install. Thanks!
I run bolts through the majority of deck trim, especially at the seams. From there I will add #12 screws on occasion if it needs a little extra anchoring down. The last thing you want is a piece of trim ripping off because it only had screws!
@@tomspontoons thank you! I will definitely do that
"The starburst side of the boat" LOL, love it! my daughter said it that way forever until she finally asked "Why did they name this side after a candy?" I'm scratching my head and ask her, "What do you mean?" "Dad, you don't know what Starburst are?! They are so good! We have to stop and get some on the way home!" We were all dying laughing.
I swear there's unlimited fun to be had around boats and the water...great conversation being one of my favorites!
Where can I get some good pricing on boat stuff
For new materials we almost exclusively use PontoonStuff.com, and then for odds and ends your best bet is actually Amazon believe it or not. Great Lakes Skipper is another website that has some surplus and lightly used/blemished boat parts. Just remember, BOAT stands for Bust Out Another Thousand....to do things correctly and to make it look like a new boat it won't be a "cheap" project.
Hi Tom, when installing the railing do you bolt the horizontal rails together first. Then, align the whole railing on the deck and drill through the railing holes into the plywood? Or do you mark the holes somehow on the floor. Really trying to understand your sequence to install railings and how you align the holes on the deck for the railing and drill them. Thanks again.
I haven’t shared a video yet as Pontoon Stuff doesn’t have full inventory of their railings kits, but I’ll definitely be sharing some tips on it when they do.
I loosely connect all of the railings to each other to mock it up. Then I clamp and tighten those horizontal bolts to make the structure more rigid. Then I install hinges, and clamp the doors shut with a fence riser in between for spacing. I start in the back with making sure both sides are even, and measure distances along the boat to make sure everything is lined up. Then I drill the back holes and drop in a bolt (not tightening because I need to still install fence risers) on both sides and work my way forward. The front corners are the very last thing I drill. Then I go back through, install fence risers, and tighten.
How do you drill with everything so tight( clearance between the drill and the fence paneling
@@jonathanmcnett8708 I use a piece of plastic between the drill and the fencing. And I wrap my impact with electrical tape to keep it from rubbing
Question I'm going to reuse the current railing and I'm going to change from traditional hinge to lift hinges from Pontoon stuff. One I have the hinges change how much spacing do I need to leave when I put the rails back together for the door to work correctly ?
Great question Charley! When positioning and bolting down my railings I clamp a fence riser at the top and one at the bottom of each door for a spacer, so somewhere between 1/4” and 1/2” as spacing is a good guideline.
First of let me thank you For the videos. I found them quite helpful. I wanted to ask where would be a good place to find the pontoon with the transom.? Because I’m going to convert my pontoon to a try tune.
Thanks for watching!! We've had to travel up to 3-4 hours away to find them. There are some websites and even Ebay stores who have them, but not sure how shipping works. We've even found them on Craigslist and FB Marketplace...always a little risk, but the beauty of aluminum and pontoons is that they can always be repaired and made as good as new again!
@@tomspontoons thank you
@@no1homehere1988 happy to help!!
How much was that. Absolutely beautiful
Check out the final episode of this build...we talk about all the costs for the project!
th-cam.com/video/icNoFvSIcSk/w-d-xo.html
Hey Tom. What fasteners did you use to attach the black powder coat deck trim around the front and back? Where you able to get black SS fasteners?
I just used stainless 1/4-20 pan phillips head bolts. There's enough silver tied into the boat that it looks good that way. I'm sure you can order black painted bolts though, or hit them with paint before installing...I was happy with the look so left them silver.
Tom, When you are making the sun deck. Could you use a 55" Panel and 2; 30" Panels to create almost the same thing? Or is it best to use individual Panels? I only ask because you have done a few of these in the past and was wondering if it is stronger with the individual panels. Oh; and I also wanted to ask about Stainless steel Nut Certs; in case you ever needed to disassemble the panels in the Sun Deck for whatever reason; or are the threads that get cut by the 1/4-20 #3 Philips head screws okay to disassemble? Thank you and Keep the videos Coming!
Great questions! You could use a straight 55" panel with 30", 28" or 24" panels to create the frame I make. I use individual panels to end up with a longer frame so that I can do the 60" long Sundeck, as opposed to something shorter. Nothing wrong with doing it either way! I've built one on another boat (video to come) that's made from two 55" panels with 18" panels between. It has space behind it for fishing so couldn't incorporate it into the rear railings like I usually do.
I use 1/4-20 bolts for just about everything. Usually with #3 phillips head. They're held together and also bolted into the floor, so not going anywhere...I build them in hopes that they aren't disassembled for another 20 years!!
Love the videos! You mention the rail kit but I haven’t seen this particular style on any site. Would you be able to share where you found the rail kit?
Thanks for watching! It’s a prototype from Pontoon Stuff…will be coming in the future with improvements to make it an easy install on any boat!!!
What hardware do you use to attach your sundeck?
All 1/4x20 stainless steel bolts, in a couple different lengths (3/4” and 2” depending on where). You can find them locally at hardware stores or even big box stores. Then piano hinges for the sundeck itself with stainless screws, and a gas hinge to hold it up while open for easier access. Then 3.5” 1/4x20 stainless deck bolts for attaching the railings down to the floor.
@@tomspontoons where do you source the piano hinge and do you do any sort of latch or lock to keep it down when trailering it?
@@mikecnelson great questions! Piano hinge comes from PontoonStuff.com and we add a strap of nylon and a snap to attach it to the railing along to port side and inside too.
hi Tom, always follow your channel and i am very exciting to see how to install interior lights but i have a question,
after finishing this awesome project, will you put the sticker for limited capacity, or it is not necessary
Thanks so much for following us! I will be looking at some comparable tritoons and making a plate for it that’s conservative. The center log had a 250 HO on it before…I’ll still make the max HP 200.
Hey Tom, Great video's! What did you do about a maximum capacity plate after you were done with the tritoon build?
Believe it or not you can get a really nice plate made on Amazon. I compare the specs of our boat to several manufacturers, and then err on the lighter side for passengers and total weight to be safe!
I’ve been looking on line for a comparable tritoon to what mine will be and noticed there is a wide range in maximum HP. I have a 24’ Premier with 25” pontoons. I’m adding a 27” center log with a transom and lifting strakes. It has a 115hp on it now and was thinking of going with a 200hp. Any thoughts? Thanks
@@anthonybass7851 I would try to figure out what motor was on that center log or what it was rated for from the manufacturer. I was fortunate to know that our center toon had a 250 HO on it, so the 200 hp was a safe bet.
Dammmnnnn $180 not bad at all. Hella cheap
That was the powder coat, definitely worth the investment!
How do you get a title for it
Every state is different, but here in Michigan we can use receipts to show materials used, and they will register it as an "Assembled Hull" with the model year as the date it was completed. I now have my USCG boat builder's license, so I'd likely just use that in the future to give it a proper registration brand label.
No aluminum skin on the underside
We get there in episode 4. It’s a must have for a tritoon like this!!