Glad to see you have a neighbors cat-everyone needs a supervisor. Why is it no one wants to use Mobil 1 15W-50 in a BMW? Nathan please disregard people talking about your shape this is a car channel- we just want a plain spoken person to tell us what they are doing so we can learn something. That E60 wants to be on the road it sounds so good!
Mobil 1 5W50 is fine but redline is a bit better, has more zinc and is an ester based oil, better wear protection. It’s also a little thicker than the mobil 1 so it’s a good compromise between the factory 10W60 and lighter weight oils. You can use mobil 1 without a problem though.
Since i installed the new rod bearings I've been using 5w-50 redline. Has alot of zinc in it. I did notice the car was burning alot of oil. I switched to the 880090(190F) motorrad thermostat. The engine warms up super fast, far less oil consumption and the coolant temp is nearly on par with the engine oil temp.
My experienced factory trained independent recommends Mobil1 0W-40 for all S65 and S85 engines. 10W-50 does not heat up fast enough unless the owner is extremely patient, and this is Texas.
@Psychological MI5 Ag3nt I'm in Calgary Alberta so we get sort of the same temps... I don't winter drive mine tho so IO don't worry about really cold starts, and Mat Shnell up top is right... When I start mine cold even in the summer it's a good 5 min before I drive.
Re. the oil consumption: I wrote you on an earlier video to change the valve seals, they are consumables on these engines and it will reduce your oil consumption.
The M5 is coming along great Nathan I always watch your videos and glad to be a member.I love the cute kitty 🐱 I used to have 2 cats.Have a great weekend.
Rod bearing failure accelerates when you rev an unloaded engine. Burnouts and reving the engine to show off will cost you dearly. Adding Lubegard Biotech to the engine oil will quiet the motor, keep the rubber valve guide seals conditioned and extend the rod bearing life. If you have high oil consumption need to hook up a pressure guage to the crankcase ventilation and ensure the vaccum is in spec.
I found the sensor with o-ring cheaper than the o-ring only for E39 coolant sensor. Ha The factory always specify a 60 weight for the M cars, and 30 weight for the 6's. 60 is way thicker, not really sure why they do that. i think it was to compensate for the weak bearings. So what it means is 60 takes way longer to come up to operating viscosity, and folks start giving the car the boot to soon on cold start, and I'll bet that's why the rod bearings have such a high failure rate. As well as being crap. A race tuned engine does need to be treated as such though, i.e. a proper warm up, and that V10 and the 8's weren't designed for a short run to the shops.
Nathan, there is a guy named Troy in Michigan, he is known in the country for working only on s85 engines...get a hold if him in regards of the engine oil, you should find him in the s85 forums. Good luck, glad you got the bearings situated .
Hi, According to "ExoticCar PlayPlace" the Vanos in the M5 complicates the issue of the best oil to use. Because the Vanos shares the engine oil, it apparently requires thicker oil (throughout the rev and temperature range). So there's no perfect solution. The following suggestions are from my research. 1. Change the oil at least every 5,000 miles 2. Clean the Vanos frequently, replace based on symptoms & inspection. 3. Change the conrod bearings every 60-70 miles, or longer if you use ACL or BE conrod bearings; I chose BE at 77,000 miles... soon after purchasing my M5. I now know that ACL is as good as BE and half or less than half the price. 4. Oils with higher zinc content enhance lubrication including that of the conrod bearings. Since using a high zinc content oil made here in Australia, oil consumption in my E60 is much lower - almost normal! These steps should optimize the "Catch 22" situation. The only engine issue since has been replacement of 3 firing coils at 99,000 miles. Please don't start me on the SMG pump, clutch & pressure plate, front lower control arms, drive shaft....
The following was released by BMW in August of 2013.. You can find it floating around the web still, I copied the text from a saved PDF and pasted it here. If you go down to the 2nd asterisk it addresses S54, S62, S65 and S85 engines. BMW CURRENT LISTING OF SYNTHETIC OILS (US Market) Required maintenance work or services should be performed for your vehicle by your authorized BMW center. BMW High Performance Synthetic Oil is recommended for scheduled engine oil changes. BMW Genuine Oil SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Oil* * Does not apply to M vehicles - see below for further information BMW part number 07 51 0 017 866 - 12 x 1 qt case BMW part number 07 510 038 678 - 24 x 1qt Enviropack BMW part number 07 51 0 017 954 - 55 gallon drum BMW recommends that you check your engine oil level whenever you add fuel to your vehicle. If you need to add oil between oil changes and BMW High Performance Synthetic Oil is unavailable, visit your nearest authorized BMW Center. For information on checking your engine oil level refer to your vehicle’s Owner’s Manual. The choice of the right SAE grade is based on the climatic conditions in the region in which you normally drive your BMW. To best determine which SAE grade is best suited for your vehicle contact an authorized BMW center. *The following is the only recommended and approved synthetic oil for BMW M (Motorsport) vehicles in the US market with gasoline engines, at the present time. BMW Long-life rating LL-01 Synthetic Oils for BMW M vehicles equipped with S54, S62, S65 or S85 engines Castrol EDGE Professional TWS Motorsport SAE 10W-60 Synthetic Engine Oil, BMW part number 07 51 0 009 420 or Castrol Edge Professional OE 5W30 Synthetic Engine Oil BMW part number 07 51 0 037 195 The following is a listing of synthetic oils recommended and approved for use in the BMW B7 ALPINA in the US market: BMW Genuine Oil SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Oil BMW part number 07 51 0 017 866 So if you can use 5W30 or 10W60, you can read between the lines and use 5W40 and 10W50 as well. ....AS LONG AS it’s Fully Synthetic and meets BMW’s LL-01 standard (has long life friction reducing additives engineered into the oil) I have used Amsoil European Premium 5W40 oil with great success in both my M3 and M5. I was getting low Vanos pressure fault codes In my M5 before I switched and haven’t had them since. I just changed my original OE Rod Bearings on my ‘06 M5 and was surprised how little wear they had. Of course you don’t know that for sure until you tear into it so I changed them anyway. I just installed VAC Motorsports bearings with their ARP fasteners. I asked them about oil and they exclusively use 5W40 in all their M cars. I change my oil every 3000 miles, use magnetic drain plugs and a high flow k&p stainless steel oil filter (filters to 35 microns and has faster flow allowing lower oil temps helping keep my oils integrity.) I’ve seen studies that show that smaller micron (smaller than 15 micron) particles do more damage that the large ones. Most oil filters will only filter down to 40 micron. ...so changing your oil way before BMW suggests will help keep your car out of their service area ;) An M engine tuner gave me the best advice... regardless of what oil you use, Warm Up Your Engine Well before driving. I let my car idle for 5 to 10 minutes. I like to see some good oil temp before driving and full temp Of course before I let ‘em eat!!!
This notification, spec sheet...from BMW is confusing. I worked my way through the channels with BMW, the sheet is confusing they say. But what they do say is, for the S85 V10, nothing but 10w60, any other is not recommended, has to do with bearings, vanos etc....Me, I trust the builder, not any tech, group, blog. People buy these cars from others that did not follow BMW's advice, because it's cheaper so they make excuses to justify, and what happens? The bearings fail, among other things. Tell me, if the factory bearings were flawed as so many "experts" say, why didn't BMW change the material in the 5 yr or so run on these? Because it's not the bearings, it's people not using the products they are told to by the manufacturer.
I am convinced -- after owning a half-dozen M5 and M6 V10s -- that most of the bearing issues arise due to improper oil group and oil weight. I use Ravenol 10W-60 which is a Group V oil with a polyester base. Another issue comes from running the engine hard before it warms the oil to the boil. A 2010 M5 of mine reduces the rev limit to 6000 rpm until the oil temperature approaches 2010 to 212 F. My 2010 has 74,000 miles and does not burn a quart of oil during its 12 month oil change cycle, granted with 5000 to 6000 miles driven.
Lighter oil and proper warm up definitely helps, but tolerance stacking means you might get unlucky with a tight motor from the factory meaning your journals will be eating your bearings for lunch no matter what you do
Great to finally hear it running. Great job!!! Looking forward to more that you gonna do to the m5 ie struts, alignment ect thanks for the great content!!!!!
Nathan you should be able to make your own block off plates with a bit of 2-3mm aluminium plate. No experience with the oil but id stick to the recommended grade. Dont want to mess that V10 up.
My E60 M5 burns oil with the recommended Castrol expensive one, but runs great with it. It DOES NOT burn oil with the Molly Lubro, which is also cheaper, but it doesnt run as well. (I thought the electronic gage was broken because it never comes down when the Molly is there, or worse yet, it can't read the deficit which would be dangerous too ) So, I went back to Castrol
Have the same dilemma when i switch to motul 10w60, can't buy it off the shelf and the price for a liter fluctuates on amazon and just add a little bit of $ its best to get the 5 liter and on the flip side i switched to 5w50 on my e39 bought it through my local napa for a good deal and got it the next day and so far the lifters got quieter on start up. Im with you though on availability and changing weight or brand compared to cost. And i agree on the oil temps ones the car is warmed up if the level of protection is enough if you go down one weight, and as far as additives ...in a perfect world they should work coz thats what their made for but we need some good independent test and data to even consider using it...Love your videos and more Mpower to you and ur fam!
Nathan Hey ! I have posted this before and once again i will Give you my fix ! I use cerma oil and all there additives ! Now i do expect you to look into this as i am stating my 06 M3 93K original Bearings only major upgrade is Bullet proof Vanos and Exh. Hub does Not burn a drop of OIL ! I had the car over 4 Years and she is clean unmolested and do not say I am Lucky I Know what Your Thinking ! I use the custom blend 10/50 works better and safe ! Now let me tell you this stuff is so good the owner john had a few BMW s and even tested his Zero weight and found 50 HP ! This is tho only oil that can meet these standards ! Does not retain Moisture and flash point is above All manufactures ! One catch very expensive 17 a Qt ! I get 10K on oil change with a filter in between ,but OIL Stay Clean !!! I am only reporting what i Know ! cermastore.com i use the guy on ebay and anyone can call john owner will talk to You ! Now that is a Satisfied Customer ME !
We use Royal Purple HPS, as such the advice that was given to us by "the people who" should "know": Engine: Royal Purple XPR 10W-60 (part #01061, quart bottle); 2006-08 models- 9.8 quarts, 2009-10 models- 10.4 quarts *For the BMW M series engines that recommend a 10W-60, if the vehicle is primarily street driven then our Royal Purple HPS 10W-40 (part #31140, quart bottle), Royal Purple XPR 5W-40 (part #01042, quart bottle), or Royal Purple XPR 10W-40 (part #01041, quart bottle) can also be used. Good Luck
In Germany, most people use Castrop 10w 60. or other brands with this viscosity. If you don‘ t use it in winter, maybe Motul 15w 50 or 60 is better. A Brand, that is often used in race cars.
Any issues with the self leveling lights yet ...hope it does not happen but can't wait as I am still having issues with mine replaced the ALH in glove box, can make them move with bmw software but have a wake up issue
Good question on the oil thing.. Why not lower the viscosity some where its obviously safe to drive hard, easy to BUY the oil like you said.. and add or change more often.. then just monitor the oil usage. idk. what id do I guess. I like heavier oils but only heavy enough to do the job.. thin enough to flow quickly to all friction surfaces during aggressive driving. Cant have new enough oil i always said.
It won’t, the viscosity is almost no different when warm. That being said if you have a pre-LCI model your VANOS pump gear and high pressure line need to be upgraded to the newer post-LCI versions to avoid future VANOS failure.
I thought about using a lighter weight oil in mine but decided against it thinking its would be more critical for the vanos pressure too use the 10w 60 especially when up too operating temps. whats the reason your deleting the air pressure valves and MAF sensors?
I’ve been looking at an E60 M5, and doing a bit of research here and there. A dead giveaway for oil consumption to me is no baffles in the valve covers, and no air/oil separators before it goes to the intake plenum. I’ve never owned one, and never seen the inside of the plenum, so I’ve never seen how much oil they may have in them to be a fair judge.
I use rotella 15 w40 and i know people that use it for racing had much more less broken engines. I have a e39 540/6 and for me is been very good and cheap. ✌️
Nathan you looking good bro. Quick question, should I only add oil when the car asks for it? I can see the oil level dropping over 2-3k miles after an oil change but it continues to say oil is OK.
I'd go with either 5W50 or 10W60... You can't have any thinner than W50 because the tolerances in this engine are so tight and they need that extra lubrication when warm
Quick question: I changed coils, spark plugs, injectors, bank1 maf, bank 1 ionic sensor, and still get P278B, P104C, P0305 misfire on cyl. 5 with cutoff, any ideas?
You know ur bmw's.. so when changing the valve cover gasket, do u need to change the actual valve cover as well on Beemers? I have a 07 328 the vc gasket needs replaced. Let me know plz. Thanks
Good job on that car Nathan . Are you planning on selling it or keeping for yourself ? I would do the latter. I love that color . Careful with the alingment . It’s a bitch to get in spec with all new suspension parts. Especially the rear. What’s the name on those tires?
Guys for the E60 M5 with the S85 what about rotella 15w40 it has zinc additives in it I have been using that in my 2003 bmw X5 with the 3.0 gas and I have never had any problems whatsoever please if someone have used that oil on S85 please share the info
Id be amazed if 5w40 wasnt safe, it wont be seeing track use or high temps. why not test it and do oil analysis? do tests to show the pressure and temperature
Hi nathen...as iv been. Following your journey on this repair ..it was somewhat predictable..I knew you would be far better off with the arp bolts....but it would have been very informational if you would have done a plastic gauge on the old ones to the new ones I have been race engine shop owner and engine builder for over fifty yrs...one issue that the engines have is it appears to use a aluminum bearing which are quite commonplace in many engines..but they are or would never be my choice for any engine I build..they are cheaper and more forgiving that the harder composite heavy duty types... the others issue is oil viscosity ...I have a 2004 X3 with M54 with190000...when my sister owned it. The oil consumption was terrible...but now that it’s in my care 15-40 amsoil HD diesel works great ...you might try it
motul x-cess is very recommanded for inline 6 bmw may be take other motul (like x power 10w60) for that V10 :) and Archoil AR2300 for engine flush too, if you can find it, ( can't in france)
Green usually represents a VITON o-ring. They can handle heat and solvents better than stsndard ones. Not sure why the main hose inlets are standard nevertheless
The S62 in the E39 M5 calls for 10w60, primarily to keep oil consumption down. I'd do the same in the S85. Yeah......you gotta let it warm up before you hammer it but so what??? It's an F1 engine, not a 4 banger VTEC.
There is stock oil for that car/ engine. My 2011 328i 3.0 inline 6 takes Castrol 5 W 30 full synthetic. I see no reason why you shouldn't be able to use the same. Good flow in cold weather, and larger engines run cooler. Great video Nathan. Can't wait to see you enjoying driving that thing.
@@kawasakiwhiptwo5821 IF...it is stock, 10w60. Because of many variables, tech updates from BMW itself for a few years now all say ONLY 10w60 in the V10. As you probably know BMW a couple years ago stopped saying Castrol, they found there could be a sludge issue. For 8/9 years now I have used Redline 10w60. If the rods/bearings etc are modified things could change. Again, stock, I myself stay with what BMW has tested for years
i have a question for you about my zf8 auto trans, i notice over time that once it seems to adapt to your driving style, it starts behaving a little awkwardly. not harsh, and it doesnt slam, the shift points on mostly decel just seem a little bit delayed or something, i also notice this happens at the same time that the hill descent control seems to want to bring the car to a stop while youre going downhill. i usually reset the adaptation when it gets to this point, because it feels so much more intuitive after doing so. do you know why it starts behaving this way? also do you think resetting adaptations frequently can do any harm to it? im running the bootmod3 trans flash so i dont think the clutches are going to slip more when i reset, as it increases the clamping force, and also have no warning lights or anything like that, i am 99% certain this is solely a software issue. would appreciate any feedback, most people look at me like im speaking mandarin or something when i bring this up... ALSO, i noticed this same exact problem before i flashed the trans so i do not believe it has anything to do with the tune
Nathan's BMW Workshop i am definitely going to do the fluid soon, the weird thing is im only at 43k right now and i noticed the trans has been doing this as early as 20k miles
@@thugstylef Might well be..on an engine that has been modified in numerous ways. But for pure stock, BMW has done years of tests/research on these [stock] they say 10w60. They even no longer recommend Castrol, sludge build up over time
Of course youre gonna be heavier than the average person cause youre like 6 2?? For that height even a weight of 265 is not all that much. Ad for the oil, its a tie between mobil1 5w50 and a 10w60 (not castrol)
Don’t second guess the oil, the VANOS system, chains, gears etc plus the high Erving close tolerances in this engine means the oil is specced by BMW for a reason, unless you hire a race engine engineering company and a lubricant expert you are just pissin in the wind guessing at what oil to use and asking the internet will bring out every wack job TH-cam certified oil expert with their opinions based on hear-say at best.
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Glad to see you have a neighbors cat-everyone needs a supervisor. Why is it no one wants to use Mobil 1 15W-50 in a BMW? Nathan please disregard people talking about your shape this is a car channel- we just want a plain spoken person to tell us what they are doing so we can learn something. That E60 wants to be on the road it sounds so good!
Mobil 1 5W50 is fine but redline is a bit better, has more zinc and is an ester based oil, better wear protection. It’s also a little thicker than the mobil 1 so it’s a good compromise between the factory 10W60 and lighter weight oils. You can use mobil 1 without a problem though.
@@woahkudros thanks. I have always heard redline is really good.
Since i installed the new rod bearings I've been using 5w-50 redline. Has alot of zinc in it. I did notice the car was burning alot of oil. I switched to the 880090(190F) motorrad thermostat. The engine warms up super fast, far less oil consumption and the coolant temp is nearly on par with the engine oil temp.
after 3 years how's she run now, with this setup?
@@BimmerJunkie 😂
What about fan, must be running all the time
Bro car is fine?
My experienced factory trained independent recommends Mobil1 0W-40 for all S65 and S85 engines. 10W-50 does not heat up fast enough unless the owner is extremely patient, and this is Texas.
Guy that built my s85 says 5W-50
@Psychological MI5 Ag3nt I don't know your climate but it's a good middle of the road oil...
@Psychological MI5 Ag3nt I'm in Calgary Alberta so we get sort of the same temps... I don't winter drive mine tho so IO don't worry about really cold starts, and Mat Shnell up top is right... When I start mine cold even in the summer it's a good 5 min before I drive.
@Psychological MI5 Ag3nt I can't... I only have about 2 blocks until I'm on main roads.... lol... I'd look like a grandma in an M5...
I use Schaeffers 5w50 with extra zinc. Been using them for about 60k miles and I've had zero issues! Still on OEM rod bearings 120k on engine.
MLifeM6 120 miles or kilometres ?
@@andrewcalk878 miles
holy shit man good stuff
Schaeffers is one of the best!
Re. the oil consumption: I wrote you on an earlier video to change the valve seals, they are consumables on these engines and it will reduce your oil consumption.
The M5 is coming along great Nathan I always watch your videos and glad to be a member.I love the cute kitty 🐱 I used to have 2 cats.Have a great weekend.
Thanks Michael
Rod bearing failure accelerates when you rev an unloaded engine. Burnouts and reving the engine to show off will cost you dearly. Adding Lubegard Biotech to the engine oil will quiet the motor, keep the rubber valve guide seals conditioned and extend the rod bearing life. If you have high oil consumption need to hook up a pressure guage to the crankcase ventilation and ensure the vaccum is in spec.
I found the sensor with o-ring cheaper than the o-ring only for E39 coolant sensor. Ha
The factory always specify a 60 weight for the M cars, and 30 weight for the 6's. 60 is way thicker, not really sure why they do that. i think it was to compensate for the weak bearings. So what it means is 60 takes way longer to come up to operating viscosity, and folks start giving the car the boot to soon on cold start, and I'll bet that's why the rod bearings have such a high failure rate. As well as being crap. A race tuned engine does need to be treated as such though, i.e. a proper warm up, and that V10 and the 8's weren't designed for a short run to the shops.
Nathan, there is a guy named Troy in Michigan, he is known in the country for working only on s85 engines...get a hold if him in regards of the engine oil, you should find him in the s85 forums.
Good luck, glad you got the bearings situated .
Hi, According to "ExoticCar PlayPlace" the Vanos in the M5 complicates the issue of the best oil to use.
Because the Vanos shares the engine oil, it apparently requires thicker oil (throughout the rev and temperature range). So there's no perfect solution. The following suggestions are from my research.
1. Change the oil at least every 5,000 miles
2. Clean the Vanos frequently, replace based on symptoms & inspection.
3. Change the conrod bearings every 60-70 miles, or longer if you use ACL or BE conrod bearings; I chose BE at 77,000 miles... soon after purchasing my M5. I now know that ACL is as good as BE and half or less than half the price.
4. Oils with higher zinc content enhance lubrication including that of the conrod bearings.
Since using a high zinc content oil made here in Australia, oil consumption in my E60 is much lower - almost normal!
These steps should optimize the "Catch 22" situation.
The only engine issue since has been replacement of 3 firing coils at 99,000 miles.
Please don't start me on the SMG pump, clutch & pressure plate, front lower control arms, drive shaft....
I was Told By Troy Jeup use 5W-50, change every 5000 KM. I change it about 3500KM and I have never had to add a single quart yet.
5w50 from redline and motorad 880090 thermostat thats the combo. I did it and have not looked back.
The following was released by BMW in August of 2013.. You can find it floating around the web still, I copied the text from a saved PDF and pasted it here. If you go down to the 2nd asterisk it addresses S54, S62, S65 and S85 engines.
BMW CURRENT LISTING OF SYNTHETIC OILS (US Market)
Required maintenance work or services should be performed for your vehicle by your authorized BMW center.
BMW High Performance Synthetic Oil is recommended for scheduled engine oil changes. BMW Genuine Oil SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Oil*
* Does not apply to M vehicles - see below for further information
BMW part number 07 51 0 017 866 - 12 x 1 qt case BMW part number 07 510 038 678 - 24 x 1qt Enviropack BMW part number 07 51 0 017 954 - 55 gallon drum
BMW recommends that you check your engine oil level whenever you add fuel to your vehicle.
If you need to add oil between oil changes and BMW High Performance Synthetic Oil is unavailable, visit your nearest authorized BMW Center. For information on checking your engine oil level refer to your vehicle’s Owner’s Manual.
The choice of the right SAE grade is based on the climatic conditions in the region in which you normally drive your BMW.
To best determine which SAE grade is best suited for your vehicle contact an authorized BMW center.
*The following is the only recommended and approved synthetic oil for BMW M (Motorsport)
vehicles in the US market with gasoline engines, at the present time.
BMW Long-life rating LL-01 Synthetic Oils for BMW M vehicles
equipped with S54, S62, S65 or S85 engines
Castrol EDGE Professional TWS Motorsport SAE 10W-60 Synthetic Engine Oil, BMW part number 07 51 0 009 420
or
Castrol Edge Professional OE 5W30 Synthetic Engine Oil
BMW part number 07 51 0 037 195
The following is a listing of synthetic oils recommended and approved for use in the BMW B7 ALPINA in the US market:
BMW Genuine Oil SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Oil
BMW part number 07 51 0 017 866
So if you can use 5W30 or 10W60, you can read between the lines and use 5W40 and 10W50 as well. ....AS LONG AS it’s Fully Synthetic and meets BMW’s LL-01 standard (has long life friction reducing additives engineered into the oil)
I have used Amsoil European Premium 5W40 oil with great success in both my M3 and M5. I was getting low Vanos pressure fault codes In my M5 before I switched and haven’t had them since.
I just changed my original OE Rod Bearings on my ‘06 M5 and was surprised how little wear they had. Of course you don’t know that for sure until you tear into it so I changed them anyway. I just installed VAC Motorsports bearings with their ARP fasteners. I asked them about oil and they exclusively use 5W40 in all their M cars.
I change my oil every 3000 miles, use magnetic drain plugs and a high flow k&p stainless steel oil filter (filters to 35 microns and has faster flow allowing lower oil temps helping keep my oils integrity.) I’ve seen studies that show that smaller micron (smaller than 15 micron) particles do more damage that the large ones. Most oil filters will only filter down to 40 micron. ...so changing your oil way before BMW suggests will help keep your car out of their service area ;)
An M engine tuner gave me the best advice... regardless of what oil you use, Warm Up Your Engine Well before driving. I let my car idle for 5 to 10 minutes. I like to see some good oil temp before driving and full temp Of course before I let ‘em eat!!!
This notification, spec sheet...from BMW is confusing. I worked my way through the channels with BMW, the sheet is confusing they say. But what they do say is, for the S85 V10, nothing but 10w60, any other is not recommended, has to do with bearings, vanos etc....Me, I trust the builder, not any tech, group, blog. People buy these cars from others that did not follow BMW's advice, because it's cheaper so they make excuses to justify, and what happens? The bearings fail, among other things. Tell me, if the factory bearings were flawed as so many "experts" say, why didn't BMW change the material in the 5 yr or so run on these? Because it's not the bearings, it's people not using the products they are told to by the manufacturer.
I am convinced -- after owning a half-dozen M5 and M6 V10s -- that most of the bearing issues arise due to improper oil group and oil weight. I use Ravenol 10W-60 which is a Group V oil with a polyester base. Another issue comes from running the engine hard before it warms the oil to the boil. A 2010 M5 of mine reduces the rev limit to 6000 rpm until the oil temperature approaches 2010 to 212 F. My 2010 has 74,000 miles and does not burn a quart of oil during its 12 month oil change cycle, granted with 5000 to 6000 miles driven.
Lighter oil and proper warm up definitely helps, but tolerance stacking means you might get unlucky with a tight motor from the factory meaning your journals will be eating your bearings for lunch no matter what you do
They all limit the redline before it’s warm…
If I was you I would keep the cat around it'll keep the mice away
no need just give them cheese.
I use redline 10w60 in my s65. To each his own. Everyone has their own preference.
I have had two E60, M5's...currently still have the second one. I 100% agree, RedLine 10W60 only
Great to finally hear it running. Great job!!! Looking forward to more that you gonna do to the m5 ie struts, alignment ect thanks for the great content!!!!!
Nathan you should be able to make your own block off plates with a bit of 2-3mm aluminium plate. No experience with the oil but id stick to the recommended grade. Dont want to mess that V10 up.
My E60 M5 burns oil with the recommended Castrol expensive one, but runs great with it. It DOES NOT burn oil with the Molly Lubro, which is also cheaper, but it doesnt run as well. (I thought the electronic gage was broken because it never comes down when the Molly is there, or worse yet, it can't read the deficit which would be dangerous too ) So, I went back to Castrol
Liqui molly 10W60 is much thicker than castrol 10W60, that’s why it burns less but runs more sluggishly.
Have the same dilemma when i switch to motul 10w60, can't buy it off the shelf and the price for a liter fluctuates on amazon and just add a little bit of $ its best to get the 5 liter and on the flip side i switched to 5w50 on my e39 bought it through my local napa for a good deal and got it the next day and so far the lifters got quieter on start up. Im with you though on availability and changing weight or brand compared to cost. And i agree on the oil temps ones the car is warmed up if the level of protection is enough if you go down one weight, and as far as additives ...in a perfect world they should work coz thats what their made for but we need some good independent test and data to even consider using it...Love your videos and more Mpower to you and ur fam!
Nathan Hey ! I have posted this before and once again i will Give you my fix ! I use cerma oil and all there additives ! Now i do expect you to look into this as i am stating my 06 M3 93K original Bearings only major upgrade is Bullet proof Vanos and Exh. Hub does Not burn a drop of OIL ! I had the car over 4 Years and she is clean unmolested and do not say I am Lucky I Know what Your Thinking ! I use the custom blend 10/50 works better and safe ! Now let me tell you this stuff is so good the owner john had a few BMW s and even tested his Zero weight and found 50 HP ! This is tho only oil that can meet these standards ! Does not retain Moisture and flash point is above All manufactures ! One catch very expensive 17 a Qt ! I get 10K on oil change with a filter in between ,but OIL Stay Clean !!! I am only reporting what i Know ! cermastore.com i use the guy on ebay and anyone can call john owner will talk to You ! Now that is a Satisfied Customer ME !
We use Royal Purple HPS, as such the advice that was given to us by "the people who" should "know":
Engine: Royal Purple XPR 10W-60 (part #01061, quart bottle); 2006-08 models- 9.8 quarts, 2009-10 models- 10.4 quarts
*For the BMW M series engines that recommend a 10W-60, if the vehicle is primarily street driven then our Royal Purple HPS 10W-40 (part #31140, quart bottle), Royal Purple XPR 5W-40 (part #01042, quart bottle), or Royal Purple XPR 10W-40 (part #01041, quart bottle) can also be used.
Good Luck
I usually remove the black plastic cover on the pulley bearings, and repack with grease, whenever I do belts. Seems to work pretty well
Best oil? Use some AeroShell Turbine Oil 500, a little pricey but will do the job!
In Germany, most people use Castrop 10w 60. or other brands with this viscosity. If you don‘ t use it in winter, maybe Motul 15w 50 or 60 is better. A Brand, that is often used in race cars.
Any issues with the self leveling lights yet ...hope it does not happen but can't wait as I am still having issues with mine replaced the ALH in glove box, can make them move with bmw software but have a wake up issue
just add molybdenum disulfide. it's a proven solid lubricant for aircraft that loose oil pressure in mid flight.
10W-60 and just let it warm up before going. Anything else and you can risk having issues on another part of the engine.
Good question on the oil thing..
Why not lower the viscosity some where its obviously safe to drive hard, easy to BUY the oil like you said.. and add or change more often.. then just monitor the oil usage. idk. what id do I guess.
I like heavier oils but only heavy enough to do the job.. thin enough to flow quickly to all friction surfaces during aggressive driving. Cant have new enough oil i always said.
Hello Nathan,
Great video again! and the Purrrrrrrrr at idle of the S85 is intoxicating.
Yes it sounds great
I’ve seen people using 5W-50 to avoid wear on cold start. But not sure if it will impact the Vanos pump
It won’t, the viscosity is almost no different when warm. That being said if you have a pre-LCI model your VANOS pump gear and high pressure line need to be upgraded to the newer post-LCI versions to avoid future VANOS failure.
Keep up the good work. A watch every of your M5 videos.
I thought about using a lighter weight oil in mine but decided against it thinking its would be more critical
for the vanos pressure too use the 10w 60 especially when up too operating temps.
whats the reason your deleting the air pressure valves and MAF sensors?
To delete all the associated lines that go with it
I’ve been looking at an E60 M5, and doing a bit of research here and there. A dead giveaway for oil consumption to me is no baffles in the valve covers, and no air/oil separators before it goes to the intake plenum. I’ve never owned one, and never seen the inside of the plenum, so I’ve never seen how much oil they may have in them to be a fair judge.
I use rotella 15 w40 and i know people that use it for racing had much more less broken engines. I have a e39 540/6 and for me is been very good and cheap. ✌️
Love the cat.
Great job buddy, I so want your garage / workshop !!
Those block off plates should take about 10 min to make. Get some 1/4" aluminum, trace the bottom flange and Mark the holes.
Good day Nathan , pls which oil will I use for N63 engine x6 2012 model ? Can CASTROL edged 5w30 good for high temperature like uae ?
Viewers saying you're fat? I would LOVE for such viewers to unsubscribe. How rude!
Nah fam. It's tough love. Now's not the time to be developing pre-existings ;)
Have you considered a friction modifier like Liqui Moly?
Enriquez39 just dont redline em when its super hot outside, but asking a bmw driver to not hammer their car.......
I used that stuff before it’s basically like snake oil. It doesn’t work. Last time that I used it I have metal shavings in my oil.
Nathan you looking good bro. Quick question, should I only add oil when the car asks for it? I can see the oil level dropping over 2-3k miles after an oil change but it continues to say oil is OK.
I'd go with either 5W50 or 10W60... You can't have any thinner than W50 because the tolerances in this engine are so tight and they need that extra lubrication when warm
George Austers Hey! nice seeing you here. 👍🏻👌🏻
That four legged creature is a funny lookin' cow.
Quick question: I changed coils, spark plugs, injectors, bank1 maf, bank 1 ionic sensor, and still get P278B, P104C, P0305 misfire on cyl. 5 with cutoff, any ideas?
You know ur bmw's.. so when changing the valve cover gasket, do u need to change the actual valve cover as well on Beemers? I have a 07 328 the vc gasket needs replaced. Let me know plz. Thanks
0W-40 is ideal.10W-60 is great for race track or the autobahn at 140 mph.
Good job on that car Nathan . Are you planning on selling it or keeping for yourself ? I would do the latter. I love that color . Careful with the alingment . It’s a bitch to get in spec with all new suspension parts. Especially the rear. What’s the name on those tires?
Guys for the E60 M5 with the S85 what about rotella 15w40 it has zinc additives in it I have been using that in my 2003 bmw X5 with the 3.0 gas and I have never had any problems whatsoever please if someone have used that oil on S85 please share the info
This is a nice 👍 color///M5 beautiful.
Indy Red...only on the E60 M5
Id be amazed if 5w40 wasnt safe, it wont be seeing track use or high temps. why not test it and do oil analysis? do tests to show the pressure and temperature
Hi nathen...as iv been. Following your journey on this repair ..it was somewhat predictable..I knew you would be far better off with the arp bolts....but it would have been very informational if you would have done a plastic gauge on the old ones to the new ones
I have been race engine shop owner and engine builder for over fifty yrs...one issue that the engines have is it appears to use a aluminum bearing which are quite commonplace in many engines..but they are or would never be my choice for any engine I build..they are cheaper and more forgiving that the harder composite heavy duty types...
the others issue is oil viscosity ...I have a 2004 X3 with M54 with190000...when my sister owned it. The oil consumption was terrible...but now that it’s in my care 15-40 amsoil HD diesel works great ...you might try it
motul x-cess is very recommanded for inline 6 bmw may be take other motul (like x power 10w60) for that V10 :) and Archoil AR2300 for engine flush too, if you can find it, ( can't in france)
Every bmw factory temp sensor o-ring I’ve seen in the coolant hose has been green . Idk why
Btw the m5 engine sounds good ! Smooth
Yes
it sounds really good
Green usually represents a VITON o-ring. They can handle heat and solvents better than stsndard ones. Not sure why the main hose inlets are standard nevertheless
Like that SUV
The S62 in the E39 M5 calls for 10w60, primarily to keep oil consumption down. I'd do the same in the S85. Yeah......you gotta let it warm up before you hammer it but so what??? It's an F1 engine, not a 4 banger VTEC.
There is stock oil for that car/ engine. My 2011 328i 3.0 inline 6 takes Castrol 5 W 30 full synthetic.
I see no reason why you shouldn't be able to use the same. Good flow in cold weather, and larger engines run cooler. Great video Nathan. Can't wait to see you enjoying driving that thing.
Why not you say? Read any and all info from BMW on the S85 V10, you will see why
@@artbrookey3341 ok. So what oil should Nathan use for the M5?
@@kawasakiwhiptwo5821 IF...it is stock, 10w60. Because of many variables, tech updates from BMW itself for a few years now all say ONLY 10w60 in the V10. As you probably know BMW a couple years ago stopped saying Castrol, they found there could be a sludge issue. For 8/9 years now I have used Redline 10w60. If the rods/bearings etc are modified things could change. Again, stock, I myself stay with what BMW has tested for years
i have a question for you about my zf8 auto trans, i notice over time that once it seems to adapt to your driving style, it starts behaving a little awkwardly. not harsh, and it doesnt slam, the shift points on mostly decel just seem a little bit delayed or something, i also notice this happens at the same
time that the hill descent control seems to want to bring the car to a stop while youre going downhill. i usually reset the adaptation when it gets to this point, because it feels so much more intuitive after doing so. do you know why it starts behaving this way? also do you think resetting adaptations frequently can do any harm to it? im running the bootmod3 trans flash so i dont think the clutches are going to slip more when i reset, as it increases the clamping force, and also have no warning lights or anything like that, i am 99% certain this is solely a software issue. would appreciate any feedback, most people look at me like im speaking mandarin or something when i bring this up... ALSO, i noticed this same exact problem before i flashed the trans so i do not believe it has anything to do with the tune
Might be time to do fluid and sleeves
Nathan's BMW Workshop i am definitely going to do the fluid soon, the weird thing is im only at 43k right now and i noticed the trans has been doing this as early as 20k miles
What’s happening with the X5?
Liquid Molly . Nothing but the best for my engine to burn through 😂
Imho people use moly because it’s cheap. Not because it’s the best
Making good progress!
Finally getting somewhere
Love the kitty!!
I think people want to believe 5w50 redline is better and im the same way, but time will show
Are you going to sale the car
There’s a master that does stroker kits on the s85 he uses redline 5w50
Troy Jeup
Corrie Harris yea that’s him he uses redline 5w50 and a believe a viper thermostat for his builds
Follow him on Instagram Troy jeup
@@thugstylef Might well be..on an engine that has been modified in numerous ways. But for pure stock, BMW has done years of tests/research on these [stock] they say 10w60. They even no longer recommend Castrol, sludge build up over time
5w50 , 10w60 is gear lube
Your best oil is going to be whatever the car calls for and you probably be able to pick it up at Walmart since you're gone to add to it anyway
Not with these
Of course youre gonna be heavier than the average person cause youre like 6 2?? For that height even a weight of 265 is not all that much. Ad for the oil, its a tie between mobil1 5w50 and a 10w60 (not castrol)
5w50 💪
Troy Jeup recommends 5w50
yeah... I have a Troy Jeup S85, was told tha same thing
For stock or his built motors?
@@TheCardinalSpear Mine is a stock one.... that's what he reccommends, not sure about his strokers.
5w50 3000 miles Change! 10 60 to thick for v10 s85 oil line holes 😁
Pennzoil 10w-60 is what I use religiously.
That wood trim did not age well lol
15w50 when its hot outside.over 85
Your cat now lol
Castrol edge 5w50
Wtf people are sayin you’re fat? This is a CAR CHANNEL not a damn exercise show.
Buy My Whip
BMW
You not fat is those dam cameras
Don’t second guess the oil, the VANOS system, chains, gears etc plus the high Erving close tolerances in this engine means the oil is specced by BMW for a reason, unless you hire a race engine engineering company and a lubricant expert you are just pissin in the wind guessing at what oil to use and asking the internet will bring out every wack job TH-cam certified oil expert with their opinions based on hear-say at best.
Stick with correct oil weight man. 10W-60 is what I have always ran in mine. No issues.
Can you prevent rod bearing failure? Sure you can. Don't buy a BMW,.😁
Your double chin has been filling out over the last 6 months. Some may be side effect of the camera(s), yet it definitely is growing.
rottfl I don't wanna see your cheerios