This is the best video I have seen on cleaning and even protecting the work product. It is short and to the point. You speak clearly. The audio volume can be heard. And, there is no annoying background noise. Thank you.
Thank for passing on your knowledge! My wife inherited a beater mixer thingy from her grandmother that stopped working. I isolated the issue to where the power cord plugs into the mixer, so I thought I would start by cleaning the connectors. In my search for a easy way to clean the connectors I came across your video which worked much better than I anticipated.
Have an OLD CAR from the 70's and the joints on the fuse box were so corroded that even the turn signal stopped working the other day. Disassembled - Used this trick (together with an electric toothbrush) and couldn't believe my eyes when all of the corrosion was easily dislodged as soon as i used the toothbrush on it. Turn signals and all cicuits running properly now.. Great tip - thanks so much!
Bought a '92 Mustang and also recently purchased a obd1 scanner to read the codes. The connectors are corroded and they, I guess won't let the scanner get any signal. Just ordered some glass test tubes(got a feeling I'll be having to do this to alot of rhe ends) but just want to thank you for showing this safe and simple means to remove corrosion and such from terminals. Now just waiting on my test tubes to arrive. Thank You Sir!
Very simple and resourceful with everyday supplies. Deoxit is very effective, but it’s like $20 a can and can be a pain to find. So if you’re doing connectors, this is the way to go. Nice job, thanks!
Best ever. I love this! I just used the procedure on the heavily corroded connectors and of my Prius traction battery. They all look new again. Unbelievably cleaned all contacts and what's best? it is the cheapest but smartest electrical corrosion removal idea ever. Just don't forget to use that amazing protection spray Thank you bro.
Thanks for the video, was inpatient with the intro but, the actual event was very informative and appreciate the information. Will be using around the house and auto.
Excellent video. Protecting the contact from corrosion is a powerful finish to your cleaning method. Cleaning connections is something I do often, and protecting them afterwards is part of my professional discipline. DeOxite products are the mainstay in my work with medical diagnostic machines. I do not go to work without Caig Labs chemicals and greases for cleaning and protecting electrical connectors. At home I use those during auto and electrical repairs.
@@paulofagundes3006 I use several types of greases, according to the application. Too keep things simple, though, I always clean the connector pins with DeoxIT D5 spray; and in mild environments I follow with DeoxIT G5 to provide lubrication and protection. However, if the conditions are adverse such as automotive connections must endure, I follow the D5 cleaning with CAIG Labs lithium based electrical grease. But any silicon-based electrical grease will also work--and may be much less expensive than the CAIG grease.
@@tomtinker7908 Thanks a lot. I'm doing some research on how to clean and protect connectors because I'll probably have to clean quite a few of them on the old Lada I bought recently. It uses those old school big spade connectors for pretty much everything, and none of them have moisture protection so you can imagine a lot of things are weak because of it. I think I'll have to go with the silicon grease then, for here in Brazil DeoxIT is insanely expensive (as every imported good taxed upon arrival) and not very easy to find. It's great I get a tip from a professional with plenty of experience like you. Since you deal with delicate equipment I believe those small details are taken quite seriously, and that's what I'm looking for. Thanks again. Have a nice weekend!
@@paulofagundes3006 The outrageous cost of electronic tools and supplies in Brazil is something I experienced working there decades ago. Even so, one 5-ounce can of D5 will treat many connections. It is needed to de-oxidize the metal of the connection before applying the silicone grease. So, in your situation, I would clean and de-oxidize the connectors and connections using the D5 (I use a fine bristled artist brush or lens-cleaning brush to apply a light coat of the D5: spraying the liquid directly is wasteful because a thin coating is most effective). After the cleaning with D5, an appropriate coating of silicone grease should preserve the connection very well.
@@tomtinker7908 Got it. I already have some brushes and the silicon grease, now i guess I’ll procure some D5. It’s best to get it right on the first time and not have to do it twice. Wish me luck!! 😊👍🏽
Great idea and just an add on I have been using vaseline on all of the connectors just a thin coat just to protect it from moisture and oxidation this gives me a longer service life as the place we live in receives heavy rains for nearly 4to 5 months.
Good suggestion Chin. Where weather exposure is significant, Vaseline or dielectric grease is a good idea to keep moisture out - just be careful not to get it on the actual electrical contact points of the connectors as it is an insulator. Best to apply it after you've put the connectors together.
Very good tutorial. Makes a job that many find difficult if they are not experienced much easier. I would also advise that using a piece of wet and dry paper folded so that you have a rough surface on each side and cut to size can be used to clean in the small space of the female connector where the male connector slides in will ensure a better connection. Gently squeezing the female connector to close the gap very slightly with pliers may also be needed if the connectors move about a little too easily. Thanks for the tutorial.
Using silicone grease protects the joint from corrosion. This is best done as you install the wiring harness, but can be done after this "cleaning" of the joint. There are conductive silicone pastes you can use found on eBay that works very well. Use shrink tubing for added protection. Good video on cleaning corroded joints, you learn something good every day.
Thank you. I'm using this on some spark lighting propane and MAPP gas torches and it's saving me from having to buy naval jelly or something like that which is hazardous. Appreciate your help
A great video all well explained and clear, thanks. I intend to use it for a particular motorcycle multi-connector, subject to the elements and subsequent corrosion.
good idea but Vinager is an acid just very mild. in my situation I'm replacing the entire harness with an aftermarket updated fuse box. I'm reusing the bulkhead and other connectors with the original termanals. once the termanals are removed from the connectors just toss them all in the solution of salt and Vinager or you can use crystal drano mixed with hot water. the drano has lye and you need gloves and ventilation. don't just walk away it works fast check in 30 seconds you can always do it more if needed.
Wouldn't a stronger acid solution (like drano / lye) just mean the reaction happens faster, but also that means it's more dangerous / harder to control? So... in that way, wouldn't vinegar just take longer - but be safer?
I tried your way for RUST on my USB connector charging cable did't work . What did work is toliet bowl cleaning liquid . If you read the label some of them says removes rust . I tried it once letting it sit for a minute . On the outside removed much of it . had to use again letting it sit on iNSIDE of USB connection for several minutes . Rinsed it off then dried sparingly with heat gun . Now works . It's cable for rechargeable Craftsman headlamp very handy
yes, rust is a different animal. For small amounts of rust a strong base or acid will work although it will also attack any plastic it touches so exercise care
Always helpful to keep moisture away from the metal as much as possible particularly if exposed to the elements. In terms of process, I'd suggest cleaning, DeOxit, plug everything back together, then lightly cover over the connector housing and any entry points for the wiring with dielectric grease
You really want to get the pins out of the plastic housing because if you don't and leave even a tiny bit of the vinegar/salt solution behind, it will start corroding immediately. One way that can work is if you have access to an ultrasonic cleaner. After cleaning off the corrosion, put the baking soda/water rinse solution in the ultrasonic cleaner and then submerge the entire connector for about 5 minutes of cleaning. That will usually be enough time to get all the vinegar/salt solution out. Make sure to spray the cleaned connector with Deoxit or a good electrical contact cleaner once dry.
Awesome, how often do you have to remake the formula? For example if I was using a test tube and had a whole harness, 100 ends to clean. How often should I make a new batch to maintain the effectiveness of the formula?
Thanks Reilly. How long the mix lasts depends upon how much corrosion you're dealing with and how much vinegar/salt solution you started with. What you'll notice is that the process slows down after a certain amount of use so if you find you're having to soak a connector 2 or 3 times it's probably time for a new batch. With those little test tubes we usually do about 20 connectors and then mix up new. And mix up some new baking soda/water at the same time just to make sure the effectiveness of that solution stays strong.
I'm working on my snowmobile and am having some electrical issues... my voltage regulator seems to have a grounding issue which I think is causing a voltage rise and it's blowing all my sled's bulbs. Any tips or advice?
Dielectric grease is OK but make sure you don't get it on the actual connectors - use the Caig Labs Deoxit we showed at the end of the video on the actual metal connectors. Dielectric grease is an insulator so be careful to only apply it to the plug housing after you've got the connector re-assembled.
Can I do this with a connector that's connected to a heating element in my electrical furnace? The element is not working because of bad contact. I unhooked the connector as it is badly corroded. Once this cleaning is done do I need to wait for it to dry?
Hi Veronica. As long as you can get the contact out of the connector body, this should work fine. It's important to get all the vinegar & salt mixture rinsed off. And yes, let it dry before putting everything back together.
Any good ideas for 'Rust' removal on such connections; or will this same process work with compromising a boat network plug (i.e.) much like a multi-wire telephone jack?
If you have actual rust which would mean a steel part where pieces of metal are flaking off, this won't help you. Check out Eastwood's Rust Dissolver (www.eastwood.com/rust-remover-eastwood-rust-dissolver.html) which works great. If the connector you're working with is brass, copper, or tin this technique should work fine for removing even heavy scale.
If a connector plug is to far corroded, like mine is an I have to crimp a new plug on, my bare wires are tarnished like u said. This would work fine cleaning up the wires correct. ?
Hey 3rd millennium, interesting video, i loved it, going to do it at work from now on. But I have a question. What about, in for example, those 7-ways female connectors, used on fleet trailers. Those, i am not able to isolate each circuit, but in many occasions, the corrosion is not out of control. But replacing the 7-way itself, it would have to be done with over 20 plus foot long sections. They have been on some occasions cut, spliced with butt connectors, but that looks terrible.
Thanks. For those 7-way female connectors there's almost always a way to de-pin them and then you can clean them using this technique. Very often a small jewelers screwdriver or two will work to remove a pin but if you have a bunch of the same connectors to do there are often special de-pinning tools made by the connector manufacturer. Look for a manufacturer ID on the connector shell and that would get you started toward a proper tool. Good luck.
3rd Millennium oh men sorry for the delay. I didn't see it until now, notification was in between many others in youtube. The 7 way connector that I was referring to was the oem female, that comes factory sealed already from the back. I have tried this method already on individual pins as well, and whoa, I'm still impressed.
Need to clean an auto AC/heat fan relay connector while still connected to the car. Do I need to disconnect the battery terminals while I do this? There appears to be 4 leads to clean and I'd like to do them all at the same time if I can.
Yes, to be safe you should always disconnect the power when working on any auto electrical circuit. I don't see any reason why you couldn't do all 4 leads at the same time.
Radio pots are usually semi-sealed so it would be hard to rinse out vinegar/salt solution so this wouldn't be a good idea in that case. Better to use a spray-type contact cleaner - look for one with an attachable long tube nozzle for getting the cleaner to the pot. Radio Shack sells one, I believe. Same issues for the rotary dimmer although if you're talking about a household 120v dimmer and it's flaky, I'd just replace it to be safe.
will this work for my Relay connectors plan is too disconnect battery and soak and clean them their full of green corrosion causing issues was going too goto pick apart and cutoff some good ones but maybe cleaning them is easier
Should work fine for the relay connectors or the socket. If you're thinking about using it for the relay itself you don't want to soak the entire relay in the salt/vinegar solution because you wouldn't be able to rinse it out completely from all the small crevices. Any of the salt/vinegar solution you don't rinse away completely will cause corrosion, so keep that in mind.
What kind of salt? Can i use Epsom salt? Can i dip the whole rubber plug with embedded connectors? Seems to be rust looking colors from old relay blades
You shouldn't as it's hard to completely rinse out all the vinegar & salt solution. If *any* of it remains in the connector it will quickly cause oxidation.
@@3rdMillennium Thank you for the reply. I have a 64' Riviera fuse block that has all the glass tube fuse connectors rusted. I didn't want to have to cut all of them out and re-solder them back in.
@@b_aleman if you can get the part into an ultrasonic cleaner for the water & baking soda solution for 10 minutes, that will usually be enough to thoroughly rinse off .
Hello James and thanks for posting. Deoxit is a great product and if you watched through to the end of this video you see we applied some to help prevent oxidation from recurring. But this process we show has two advantages. First, this procedure costs almost nothing and uses only safe ingredients that most people already have on hand in their home. Second, when you use a contact cleaner and then simply give the connection a couple of quick connects/disconnects, you do loosen the oxidation at the contact point and can achieve a better connection, but you aren't actually removing any of the oxide buildup - you're just pushing it aside and oxidation will begin again especially if the part is subject to air and motion/vibration. This is why if you've ever sprayed a noisy pot with contact cleaner it takes care of the issue initially, but then you find yourself having to do it again in a few months. In the electronics repair industry where the focus is on a quick repair, just using contact cleaner is pretty widely practiced, but in many cases the proper repair - especially for an audio pot or connector - would be to replace the component. This technique we're showing completely removes the oxidation from the part - both the contact area and the rest of the connector, too. So if you're trying to achieve a really clean connection for soldering, re-crimping, or you want the part 100% clean with an very low resistance value and long-term stability, contact cleaner by itself isn't the best way to go. Of course, for a pot or some connection where you don't have good access, it might be your only alternative.
So vinegar and salt will clean my corroded pins in one of my connectors at the door's module? Dont know the material of the pins. Maybe aluminum or aluminum plated copper.. ? How much vinegar and salt to mix? does it matter?
Most pins are nickel plated or tinned steel but this method will work on all of them - even brass. And add as much salt as will dissolve in the vinegar.
I recommend removing the connectors from the plastic housing although I know that not everyone does. There are two reasons it's a good idea. First, if you need to brush the pins after they soak, you can't get at them very well with the housing in place. Second, even though you rinse the assembly off with the baking soda/water mixture, some of the vinegar/salt mixture might be trapped where you can't get it - think of the contact area between a pin and the housing that holds the pin's shaft. Any missed vinegar/salt will quickly corrode the connector. There are tools available specifically for de-pinning multi-pin connectors although you can often do it with just an inexpensive set of jewelers screwdrivers.
That can help - perhaps rinse/compressed air a couple of times. The best would be an ultrasonic cleaner that will work the solution into the tiniest crevises. But most people wouldn't have access to that type of equipment.
There's no reason you can't do one or two of your harness connectors at the same time. De-pin them (take pictures/notes of each wire position) and dunk them all at once into a larger container of the vinegar/salt. Then work them with your brass brush and rinse as per the video. The key is keeping them all wet through the entire process.
I just did this on my 64 imperial wire harness to fire wall plugs i just dipped the whole plug the plastic connector and all and it came out fine you have to make sure you sterilize the vinager or it will corrode worse than it was in 45 minutes time. make sure you have everything mixed and ready to go in separate cups or bowls before hand, i did all this baking soda and all then after done i rinsed it all off with a garden hose really good so id get no corrosion.
+3rd millennium Hey I am trying to clean my engine's electrical harness and I was wondering if I would be safe to clean it with only the negative battery terminal disconnected or do I need to have both - & + terminals disconected?
This is the best video I have seen on cleaning and even protecting the work product. It is short and to the point. You speak clearly. The audio volume can be heard. And, there is no annoying background noise. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
procedure starts at 3:10.
Thanks for the tips
Thank for passing on your knowledge! My wife inherited a beater mixer thingy from her grandmother that stopped working. I isolated the issue to where the power cord plugs into the mixer, so I thought I would start by cleaning the connectors. In my search for a easy way to clean the connectors I came across your video which worked much better than I anticipated.
Great! Glad it helped.
Have an OLD CAR from the 70's and the joints on the fuse box were so corroded that even the turn signal stopped working the other day. Disassembled - Used this trick (together with an electric toothbrush) and couldn't believe my eyes when all of the corrosion was easily dislodged as soon as i used the toothbrush on it.
Turn signals and all cicuits running properly now.. Great tip - thanks so much!
Great! Glad it helped.
Bought a '92 Mustang and also recently purchased a obd1 scanner to read the codes. The connectors are corroded and they, I guess won't let the scanner get any signal. Just ordered some glass test tubes(got a feeling I'll be having to do this to alot of rhe ends) but just want to thank you for showing this safe and simple means to remove corrosion and such from terminals.
Now just waiting on my test tubes to arrive. Thank You Sir!
Glad it helped
Very simple and resourceful with everyday supplies. Deoxit is very effective, but it’s like $20 a can and can be a pain to find. So if you’re doing connectors, this is the way to go. Nice job, thanks!
Best ever. I love this! I just used the procedure on the heavily corroded connectors and of my Prius traction battery.
They all look new again. Unbelievably cleaned all contacts and what's best? it is the cheapest but smartest electrical corrosion removal idea ever. Just don't forget to use that amazing protection spray
Thank you bro.
Glad it helped you out.
Top tip and with simple everyday products to solve the problem.... thank you .
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the video, was inpatient with the intro but, the actual event was very informative and appreciate the information. Will be using around the house and auto.
a well done 3 minute video in under 12 min - btw dielectric grease bar none best electrical corrosion prevention - yes it works on low voltage too
Excellent video. Protecting the contact from corrosion is a powerful finish to your cleaning method. Cleaning connections is something I do often, and protecting them afterwards is part of my professional discipline. DeOxite products are the mainstay in my work with medical diagnostic machines. I do not go to work without Caig Labs chemicals and greases for cleaning and protecting electrical connectors. At home I use those during auto and electrical repairs.
Could you enlighten me as for what type of grease to protect electrical connectors?
@@paulofagundes3006 I use several types of greases, according to the application. Too keep things simple, though, I always clean the connector pins with DeoxIT D5 spray; and in mild environments I follow with DeoxIT G5 to provide lubrication and protection. However, if the conditions are adverse such as automotive connections must endure, I follow the D5 cleaning with CAIG Labs lithium based electrical grease. But any silicon-based electrical grease will also work--and may be much less expensive than the CAIG grease.
@@tomtinker7908 Thanks a lot. I'm doing some research on how to clean and protect connectors because I'll probably have to clean quite a few of them on the old Lada I bought recently.
It uses those old school big spade connectors for pretty much everything, and none of them have moisture protection so you can imagine a lot of things are weak because of it.
I think I'll have to go with the silicon grease then, for here in Brazil DeoxIT is insanely expensive (as every imported good taxed upon arrival) and not very easy to find.
It's great I get a tip from a professional with plenty of experience like you. Since you deal with delicate equipment I believe those small details are taken quite seriously, and that's what I'm looking for.
Thanks again. Have a nice weekend!
@@paulofagundes3006 The outrageous cost of electronic tools and supplies in Brazil is something I experienced working there decades ago. Even so, one 5-ounce can of D5 will treat many connections. It is needed to de-oxidize the metal of the connection before applying the silicone grease. So, in your situation, I would clean and de-oxidize the connectors and connections using the D5 (I use a fine bristled artist brush or lens-cleaning brush to apply a light coat of the D5: spraying the liquid directly is wasteful because a thin coating is most effective). After the cleaning with D5, an appropriate coating of silicone grease should preserve the connection very well.
@@tomtinker7908 Got it. I already have some brushes and the silicon grease, now i guess I’ll procure some D5. It’s best to get it right on the first time and not have to do it twice. Wish me luck!! 😊👍🏽
Great idea and just an add on I have been using vaseline on all of the connectors just a thin coat just to protect it from moisture and oxidation this gives me a longer service life as the place we live in receives heavy rains for nearly 4to 5 months.
Good suggestion Chin. Where weather exposure is significant, Vaseline or dielectric grease is a good idea to keep moisture out - just be careful not to get it on the actual electrical contact points of the connectors as it is an insulator. Best to apply it after you've put the connectors together.
Very good tutorial. Makes a job that many find difficult if they are not experienced much easier. I would also advise that using a piece of wet and dry paper folded so that you have a rough surface on each side and cut to size can be used to clean in the small space of the female connector where the male connector slides in will ensure a better connection. Gently squeezing the female connector to close the gap very slightly with pliers may also be needed if the connectors move about a little too easily. Thanks for the tutorial.
Using silicone grease protects the joint from corrosion. This is best done as you install the wiring harness, but can be done after this "cleaning" of the joint. There are conductive silicone pastes you can use found on eBay that works very well. Use shrink tubing for added protection. Good video on cleaning corroded joints, you learn something good every day.
Thank you. I'm using this on some spark lighting propane and MAPP gas torches and it's saving me from having to buy naval jelly or something like that which is hazardous. Appreciate your help
Glad it's helping you out
Loved it. Skip the first 4 minutes.
Agree! 😊
A great video all well explained and clear, thanks.
I intend to use it for a particular motorcycle multi-connector, subject to the elements and subsequent corrosion.
Glad it was helpful
good idea but Vinager is an acid just very mild. in my situation I'm replacing the entire harness with an aftermarket updated fuse box. I'm reusing the bulkhead and other connectors with the original termanals. once the termanals are removed from the connectors just toss them all in the solution of salt and Vinager or you can use crystal drano mixed with hot water. the drano has lye and you need gloves and ventilation. don't just walk away it works fast check in 30 seconds you can always do it more if needed.
Wouldn't a stronger acid solution (like drano / lye) just mean the reaction happens faster, but also that means it's more dangerous / harder to control? So... in that way, wouldn't vinegar just take longer - but be safer?
I tried your way for RUST on my USB connector charging cable did't work . What did work is toliet bowl cleaning liquid . If you read the label some of them says removes rust . I tried it once letting it sit for a minute . On the outside removed much of it . had to use again letting it sit on iNSIDE of USB connection for several minutes . Rinsed it off then dried sparingly with heat gun . Now works . It's cable for rechargeable Craftsman headlamp very handy
yes, rust is a different animal. For small amounts of rust a strong base or acid will work although it will also attack any plastic it touches so exercise care
Great video, so simple, so cheap and very professional.
Articulate and well done. Thank you
Great method! I used it on my van.
Thank you for sharing this! Very helpful information!
Damn, you are good..!
thank you for sharing your knowlede. Ill be doing a motorcycle harness and this is going to work fast and easy!
About to do this on a 66 Lincoln's windows. Looks great!
Thanks! Good luck with the Lincoln.
Thank you, was very long winded but great tutorial
Any thoughts/comments on using dielectric grease as the preventative for combatting future corrosion?
Always helpful to keep moisture away from the metal as much as possible particularly if exposed to the elements. In terms of process, I'd suggest cleaning, DeOxit, plug everything back together, then lightly cover over the connector housing and any entry points for the wiring with dielectric grease
Thank you so much❤❤❤
You are very welcome!
Impressive results. Thanks!
Great video. So good
excellent video....thank you
Ver helpful!, Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
What if you can't get the plastic housing piece off? Can you submerge it int he vinegar solution with that still on?
You really want to get the pins out of the plastic housing because if you don't and leave even a tiny bit of the vinegar/salt solution behind, it will start corroding immediately. One way that can work is if you have access to an ultrasonic cleaner. After cleaning off the corrosion, put the baking soda/water rinse solution in the ultrasonic cleaner and then submerge the entire connector for about 5 minutes of cleaning. That will usually be enough time to get all the vinegar/salt solution out. Make sure to spray the cleaned connector with Deoxit or a good electrical contact cleaner once dry.
Awesome, how often do you have to remake the formula? For example if I was using a test tube and had a whole harness, 100 ends to clean. How often should I make a new batch to maintain the effectiveness of the formula?
Thanks Reilly. How long the mix lasts depends upon how much corrosion you're dealing with and how much vinegar/salt solution you started with. What you'll notice is that the process slows down after a certain amount of use so if you find you're having to soak a connector 2 or 3 times it's probably time for a new batch. With those little test tubes we usually do about 20 connectors and then mix up new. And mix up some new baking soda/water at the same time just to make sure the effectiveness of that solution stays strong.
I love science and electricity
What is the salt dissolved in the vinegar for?
That makes the chemical reaction that dissolves all the oxides on the connectors.
Great video! Do you recommend using dielectric grease after the corrosion removal process?
I'm working on my snowmobile and am having some electrical issues... my voltage regulator seems to have a grounding issue which I think is causing a voltage rise and it's blowing all my sled's bulbs. Any tips or advice?
Dielectric grease is OK but make sure you don't get it on the actual connectors - use the Caig Labs Deoxit we showed at the end of the video on the actual metal connectors. Dielectric grease is an insulator so be careful to only apply it to the plug housing after you've got the connector re-assembled.
Can I do this with a connector that's connected to a heating element in my electrical furnace? The element is not working because of bad contact. I unhooked the connector as it is badly corroded. Once this cleaning is done do I need to wait for it to dry?
Hi Veronica. As long as you can get the contact out of the connector body, this should work fine. It's important to get all the vinegar & salt mixture rinsed off. And yes, let it dry before putting everything back together.
Any good ideas for 'Rust' removal on such connections; or will this same process work with compromising a boat network plug (i.e.) much like a multi-wire telephone jack?
If you have actual rust which would mean a steel part where pieces of metal are flaking off, this won't help you. Check out Eastwood's Rust Dissolver (www.eastwood.com/rust-remover-eastwood-rust-dissolver.html) which works great. If the connector you're working with is brass, copper, or tin this technique should work fine for removing even heavy scale.
If a connector plug is to far corroded, like mine is an I have to crimp a new plug on, my bare wires are tarnished like u said. This would work fine cleaning up the wires correct. ?
Yes, it will clean up the wires nicely. Try to separate the wire strands a bit before putting them into the cleaning solution and it will help.
3rd Millennium Thanks for the quick reply. Awesome. 💯.
Hey 3rd millennium, interesting video, i loved it, going to do it at work from now on. But I have a question. What about, in for example, those 7-ways female connectors, used on fleet trailers. Those, i am not able to isolate each circuit, but in many occasions, the corrosion is not out of control. But replacing the 7-way itself, it would have to be done with over 20 plus foot long sections. They have been on some occasions cut, spliced with butt connectors, but that looks terrible.
Thanks. For those 7-way female connectors there's almost always a way to de-pin them and then you can clean them using this technique. Very often a small jewelers screwdriver or two will work to remove a pin but if you have a bunch of the same connectors to do there are often special de-pinning tools made by the connector manufacturer. Look for a manufacturer ID on the connector shell and that would get you started toward a proper tool. Good luck.
3rd Millennium oh men sorry for the delay. I didn't see it until now, notification was in between many others in youtube. The 7 way connector that I was referring to was the oem female, that comes factory sealed already from the back. I have tried this method already on individual pins as well, and whoa, I'm still impressed.
Need to clean an auto AC/heat fan relay connector while still connected to the car. Do I need to disconnect the battery terminals while I do this? There appears to be 4 leads to clean and I'd like to do them all at the same time if I can.
Yes, to be safe you should always disconnect the power when working on any auto electrical circuit. I don't see any reason why you couldn't do all 4 leads at the same time.
Thank you I did this to Trailer light plug ,Works GREAT !!! Will it work on pot= radio volume ele and rotary dimmer switch??
Radio pots are usually semi-sealed so it would be hard to rinse out vinegar/salt solution so this wouldn't be a good idea in that case. Better to use a spray-type contact cleaner - look for one with an attachable long tube nozzle for getting the cleaner to the pot. Radio Shack sells one, I believe. Same issues for the rotary dimmer although if you're talking about a household 120v dimmer and it's flaky, I'd just replace it to be safe.
will this work for my Relay connectors plan is too disconnect battery and soak and clean them their full of green corrosion causing issues was going too goto pick apart and cutoff some good ones but maybe cleaning them is easier
Should work fine for the relay connectors or the socket. If you're thinking about using it for the relay itself you don't want to soak the entire relay in the salt/vinegar solution because you wouldn't be able to rinse it out completely from all the small crevices. Any of the salt/vinegar solution you don't rinse away completely will cause corrosion, so keep that in mind.
A blend of one cup hydrogen peroxide, 2 tablespoons of citric acid and a cup of water works well over night.
Sorry to ask a question on a video posted so long ago, but if you read this: what is that spray you used?
The spray is DeOxit by Caig Labs. We do have it available on our website. www.3rdstrategy.com/misc.html
@@3rdMillennium thanks!
What kind of salt? Can i use Epsom salt? Can i dip the whole rubber plug with embedded connectors? Seems to be rust looking colors from old relay blades
plain old table salt
Can I leave the connector in the plastic housing?
You shouldn't as it's hard to completely rinse out all the vinegar & salt solution. If *any* of it remains in the connector it will quickly cause oxidation.
@@3rdMillennium Thank you for the reply. I have a 64' Riviera fuse block that has all the glass tube fuse connectors rusted. I didn't want to have to cut all of them out and re-solder them back in.
@@b_aleman if you can get the part into an ultrasonic cleaner for the water & baking soda solution for 10 minutes, that will usually be enough to thoroughly rinse off .
What about just using De-oxit a commercial spray can product that is used throughout the electronics repair industry to clean contacts?
Hello James and thanks for posting. Deoxit is a great product and if you watched through to the end of this video you see we applied some to help prevent oxidation from recurring. But this process we show has two advantages.
First, this procedure costs almost nothing and uses only safe ingredients that most people already have on hand in their home.
Second, when you use a contact cleaner and then simply give the connection a couple of quick connects/disconnects, you do loosen the oxidation at the contact point and can achieve a better connection, but you aren't actually removing any of the oxide buildup - you're just pushing it aside and oxidation will begin again especially if the part is subject to air and motion/vibration. This is why if you've ever sprayed a noisy pot with contact cleaner it takes care of the issue initially, but then you find yourself having to do it again in a few months. In the electronics repair industry where the focus is on a quick repair, just using contact cleaner is pretty widely practiced, but in many cases the proper repair - especially for an audio pot or connector - would be to replace the component. This technique we're showing completely removes the oxidation from the part - both the contact area and the rest of the connector, too.
So if you're trying to achieve a really clean connection for soldering, re-crimping, or you want the part 100% clean with an very low resistance value and long-term stability, contact cleaner by itself isn't the best way to go. Of course, for a pot or some connection where you don't have good access, it might be your only alternative.
+3rd Millennium Thanks!
3rd Millennium great explanation - thanks!
May I use Morton "Kosher" salt?
any type of salt will work fine
Good Stuff!
So vinegar and salt will clean my corroded pins in one of my connectors at the door's module?
Dont know the material of the pins. Maybe aluminum or aluminum plated copper.. ?
How much vinegar and salt to mix? does it matter?
Most pins are nickel plated or tinned steel but this method will work on all of them - even brass. And add as much salt as will dissolve in the vinegar.
Why the salt?
Salt added to vinegar creates hydrogen chloride and sodium acetate. This is what cleans the metals off the connector.
@@3rdMillennium Thanks. I've also wondered why ketchup appears to work for this.
Does using a plastic instead of glass container make any difference?
Plastic is OK but glass will hold up better
Do the plastic parts of the connector have to come off? I've never seen an auto connector where the plastic part comes off!
I recommend removing the connectors from the plastic housing although I know that not everyone does. There are two reasons it's a good idea. First, if you need to brush the pins after they soak, you can't get at them very well with the housing in place. Second, even though you rinse the assembly off with the baking soda/water mixture, some of the vinegar/salt mixture might be trapped where you can't get it - think of the contact area between a pin and the housing that holds the pin's shaft. Any missed vinegar/salt will quickly corrode the connector.
There are tools available specifically for de-pinning multi-pin connectors although you can often do it with just an inexpensive set of jewelers screwdrivers.
Thanks for your reply. I'll look into it. How about spraying with compressed air?
That can help - perhaps rinse/compressed air a couple of times. The best would be an ultrasonic cleaner that will work the solution into the tiniest crevises. But most people wouldn't have access to that type of equipment.
really cool and accurate, but takes too long to do this. I want someting I can do to the entire harness all at once.
There's no reason you can't do one or two of your harness connectors at the same time. De-pin them (take pictures/notes of each wire position) and dunk them all at once into a larger container of the vinegar/salt. Then work them with your brass brush and rinse as per the video. The key is keeping them all wet through the entire process.
I just did this on my 64 imperial wire harness to fire wall plugs i just dipped the whole plug the plastic connector and all and it came out fine you have to make sure you sterilize the vinager or it will corrode worse than it was in 45 minutes time. make sure you have everything mixed and ready to go in separate cups or bowls before hand, i did all this baking soda and all then after done i rinsed it all off with a garden hose really good so id get no corrosion.
Than You
+3rd millennium Hey I am trying to clean my engine's electrical harness and I was wondering if I would be safe to clean it with only the negative battery terminal disconnected or do I need to have both - & + terminals disconected?
Just pulling the battery negative lead will be fine. Good luck with your project.
awesomeeeeee........................ :)
Anyone ever tell you you should be on the radio or announcing live games
How about CLR?
Go home
@@myes344 what does go home mean me stupid
@@williamnagel2654 lmfaooo
Only need to soak for a couple of minutes was the sign that it’s a no for me
will this work better than wd-40
Yes, much better. WD-40 is primarily a silicone based lubricant and doesn't do much of anything to remove corrosion
Nicely done, but you could have done this in 25 seconds, tops.
just use a wire brush no need to get vinegar on the wire to eat it up
ah...vinegar won't 'eat up' the wire
you should be a DJ
3:59
this type of solutions should be contact less, otherwise sometimes you cant reach inside of conectors, where is most important
My car bmw x1 total connector poin carbon fill , how to clean ,
My car Electrical system total off not work my car
GOLAM SARWAR ALAM SIDDIQUE a
Test tube not necessary, unless you want to be all scientific about it.
Good video but too long.
You sound like Howard Stern
Nice video. I have one comment or request. Please pronounce the word correctly. It is "Oxidation." It is not 'oxidization."
actually either usage is correct or as our friends in Great Britain would say, 'oxidisation'