Repairing A Neglected Driveway Crack | The Ultimate Solution!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 พ.ค. 2024
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Anyone who has a concrete driveway most likely also has one or more concrete cracks in that driveway. There is a method to repair these cracks which do not include hauling around bags of concrete or hours of back-breaking work. I will walk you through this DIY-friendly project which has served me well over the years.
Chapter
0:00 Intro
0:38 Prep Work
1:36 Why You Need To Repair These Cracks
2:26 Filling In The Cracks and Voids
3:40 The Better Solution For Filling Concrete Cracks
5:17 Applying Vulkem 45 SSL
6:07 Avoid This Issue And How To Blend In The Sealtant
8:07 What To Do For Larger Cracks
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Two additional tips when working with the 45 SSL: you can fill the crack to almost over filling it because it does shrink a bit when it dries. Second: I ended up dumping a large amount of sand over the entire crack once it was filled and then came back the next day and swept/ blew the excess off. It ends up blending much better and does a good job hiding any over fill pointa
This is a good way to make it blend better. But it will also significantly shorten the life expectancy of the sealant. It severely restricts the sealants ability to stretch.
In fact as a professional caulker if I do this I void the manufacture’s warranty.
Having said that , for most homeowners aesthetics are more important than ultimate performance. But in the future if you do decide to use sand, try to use very fine sand and just dust it on top. The more it sinks into the sealant the more damage you do to the lifespan. My suggestion is don’t do it. As the sealant ages and dulls it will blend better
@@genecarden780 I assumed those were probably the trade-offs by going the more aggressive route that I did. You are spot on though: I'm more concerned about the appearance and general effectiveness than having maximum longevity. I'll see how it holds up, but I'll likely need to replace my driveway at some point in the next few years so I knew this was only a band-aid solution for my particular situation
@@benjaminwells3233 this is a crack and I totally “get” trying to make it blend better as long as you understand the trade off. You obviously do. But many, probably most ,don’t understand that. About 95% have no idea how sealants actually function.There is so much misinformation about sealants on TH-cam that I kinda feel I should at least try to give homeowners the correct information.As a professional caulker I would never put sand on wet sealant. As a homeowner I have done it.But never in a situation where I was trying to stop water infiltration
@@benjaminwells3233 The best approach is to wait for the surface to begin to skin, then lightly dust the surface with fine sand and powdered colorant, and immediately blow it off. The net effect is a pre-aged appearance with minimal impact on the elasticity of the sealant.
@@genecarden780 Good luck with your manufacture warranty! Not worth a s***.
I live up here in the northwest. The big problem about cracks in sidewalks or driveways is water getting in the cracks and freezing. The frozen water expands the crack further damaging the area. I use 45 psi compressed air to clean out the debris. I enjoy your videos. Thank you.
I'm so glad I stumbled upon your video. I have almost an identical crack near my garage and need to address it as soon as it warms up. Thanks so much for taking the time to film this process!!
I had to use the "pool noodle" method! I've got some areas which I forgot to prep . . . and needless to say, the sealant kept going down and I will have to go back and prep it and then add some more sealant. Funny thing . . . my wife question the "pool noodle" method and said, "Where did you learn that, TH-cam?" LOL! Thank you for your videos, they have save me a bunch of mistakes and money. On the end, where the crack really opened up, I used an aluminium, square blank that I had from other projects (4X4) piece and tapped it into the ground next to the end of my front porch. It served as a rigid dam at the end. Worked really good.
Thank you. I am planning to work on some cracks on the garage floor and this just what aI need. Cracks are much smaller but the video seems to address the questions I had.
Great video and prep technique. I can say this is the most effective long term solution, as over 20 years ago I repaired my concrete parking lot using multiple methods (some areas used quikcrete other areas used Solonlastic SL1 with backer rod) the ladder method has held up for 20+ years. All the quikcrete repairs broke up after a few years. Of course a professional would know that would happen, but for me at the time it was an experiment…
I totally agree with you about the tree root possibility helping or causing that crack. Thanks I have driveway cracks I need to fix with no close trees. So I will follow your advice! thanks so much!
GREAT video. I like the prep work to ensure it sticks and lasts. I didn't know about SSL, and have only used the thinner stuff. I've got some gaps over 1" after slabs shifted when ground was saturated due to a neighbor blocking drainage (with my driveway on a berm). Using backer rod is the trick. Problem here (near St. Louis) is water/melting snow gets down in cracks and freezes/expands in winter, and pushes slabs apart and pops up more concrete
I get so much out of your videos. My partner and I are new homeowners learning to DIY, to revive our fixer upper to all of it's 1967 glory. Thank you a million times over!
I use a 5 in 1 tool for digging around in the cracks. Myself, I have several of these, and use my older beat up ones because it will take the edge off the tool. Also, I make sure I keep the tubes warm so they flow easier causing less hand fatigue.
Another very comprehensive but easily understood video. He seems never to miss important details and explains how to work around them. Keep up the fine work !!
Thanks for the feedback 🙌
Solid video for a busy dad who is clueless on this stuff and needs to fix about 4 cracks lol. Thanks Man.
You bet, we are here to help!
Why a dad?
@@evhvariac2 Because, ummm…..I am a dad…………………..?
Excellent, thank you! A very nice demo with great visuals. Also great tips from the comment section.
I finally figured out how to shop at your store. You have to click on the right panel to get that sub grouping. Yay! Thanks so much for this series. Very good demos.
Great topic and instruction. I used that same Valkem product here in WI several years ago, We have temps from as high as 100+ to lows as low as -20 and this product works beautifully. Yes. per tube its a little pricey but it's worth it as it will last for years to come
Thank you for the video. I have a home with a large circular driveway which has many cracks big and small. I was considering grouting and then painting / sealing to get a better looking result.
Very helpful. Few extra steps i never thought were necessary. Thanks for the quality tips.
You bet!
Best tutorial I’ve seen on crack filling…thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Great video. Answered questions than I never knew I had!
You can buy a concrete cutting/grinding blade for your angle grinder to open and clean the crack for prep. Also you can grind down the high side to prevent tripping hazards by rounding the edge.
Not a bad idea, thanks for the feedback.
Yes, good thinking.
I have done this professionally for over 45 years. This is actually the correct way to repair this type of crack. It should always be ground open. In fact professionals use a “ crack chaser” diamond blade. It is “ V” shaped and makes it very easy to follow the crack.
It is more expensive ( about $45) but will last a homeowner several lifetimes no matter how many rental properties he has
Plus you can "reshape" the crack with the grinder so it looks better and more uniform, thats what i did.
@@drumswest5035 the crack chaser wheel makes this very easy
Thank you for your video. I have hairline long crack on my driveway which is visible when it wet. Any way to stop it now from further expansion?
Hello Scott, When a crack on a sidewalk has different elevations, I'll take a grinder with a concrete grinding wheel and I'll grind the higher elevation so that there is a taper that levels where the crack is and gradually gets higher (a six inches taper in total). This way, when water travels across the sidewalk, it won't collect where the crack is & I've eliminated a trip-hazard. .... Then, I'll proceed with similar steps as you've shown in this video to seal the crack. 👍
I was thinking about doing that on mine, but due to time constraints and lack of access to a concrete grinder, I did have to resort to the "pool noodle method" which works surprisingly well!
Great video! I've seen people use a grinder to clean/smooth out the crack and sometimes widen a crack as it thins to ensure the caulk can get in. Do you believe this is necessary or does what you show in the video work just as well?
Once you do this, can you use an exterior self leveling style concrete to refinish your driveway? I'm prepping my house for sale and want to make improvements for curb appeal.
I did the same thing to my driveway two days ago but used the Sika self leveling sealant from Home Depot. So far it looks good. (I’m a diy person with little experience so I watch lots of videos on TH-cam. Thanks for your video.
Did it start to crack again
I am a professional caulker. We use Sika products all of the time. It was an excellent choice
@@genecarden780 when you have a crack in peice of concrete, I had now because 2 peices of concrete.
In the same day there is enough temperature change between night and day to make the 2 peices of concrete to move due to temperature change causing it to expand and retract. Is Seka strong enough to hold 2 large slabs of concrete together .
I don't think so.
@@drmidnight680-kz2le It does not hold them together. The slabs will still move thermally but the sealant will stretch when crack is bigger and compress when the crack is smaller. That is actually exactly what sealant is designed to do. If you actually “hold them together” it will most likely just crack somewhere else. Depending on why it cracked in the first place.
@@genecarden780 temperature changes from different months will higher causing the adhesive to fail and the crack will come back after several months.
It may not take long at all if you drive car over it.
thank you for teaching me how to work all the sides of a deep crack
*hits pipe*
I have multiple very small cracks. I first slightly enlarged the cracks, then cleaned edges and add sealant! Final step was to add small sand/gravel to match but can adhere to the sealant. It is a 24-year old driveway in the Texas heat and cold and still looks good!
Hi, I have a patterned concrete drive that has a very fine crack forming along it, the drive is sloping. It doesn’t matter about the sealant colour as I will be repainting the whole drive anyway. The crack is only about 1-2mm wide at most. Can I get crack repair that will fill such a small crack? Or should I wait until the crack is more substantial? I don’t want the cold winter months to do more damage.
I prepared the crack as you and used Sika pro select self-leveling sikaflex*polyurethane 3 years ago. I pressure washed last week, and it still looks nice. I was going to add sand, but I figured it would promote growth.
I just purchased caulk backer, caulking & sealant as my driveway is doing this from so much rain. Thank you for this!
Great video! Can you do o a video on fixing cracks in asphalt driveways?
Great explanation…. Thanks for sharing
When I would do this, I always hated the filler not blending into the concrete and thus contrasting colors as an obvious repair. To fix that issue once I would add the filler to level it with the surrounding concrete, I would use either sand or pulverized concrete and add it as a light topper to blend it in, and what a HUGE difference that made as the sand\concrete would adhere to the filler and would be almost impossible to remove and would make the whole job look a million times better.
Excellent suggestion! I've done the same on a previous project however the sand didn't adhere too well to the self-leveling caulk, not sure why. Thanks
@@arminius301it does come at a cost. It WILL shorten the lifespan of the sealant. But unless you are good at caulking it can look like a mess, and VERY LIGHT dusting can make it look better.
YOU should have made the video!
I use Quickrete straight out of the bag after angle grinding to minimize slope, adding backer rod, and filling with sealant. Definitely makes it far less obvious!
Great video. Here in cold Canada cracks means ice will form and ice will completely destroy the driveway in a few short years.
Very informative. but I will need to look for a product to use on my asphalt driveway cracks.
Great job mate and very interesting thank you very much 😊
One trick for matching concrete would be to pulverize the chips you remove and sprinkle that on the top instead of sand.
Pulverize the chips you remove? Have another beer. You must be retired government employee.
@@extraart1 he means any concrete chips or stones that you may end up finding in the crack itself. If you smash them into sand it will match the color of the driveway and will look much better after sprinkling over the sealant. Otherwise, like most of these videos, it comes out looking like absolute garbage.
What a stupid reply- it’s a great suggestion to get a good color match
@@extraart1you should not “ sprinkle” anything o top if the sealant it WILL shorten the sealants life significantly
BLet me tell u sand(or pulverized concrete)is almost a must. If u dont use it when cone back you'll have ants, flies, garbage stuck to the sealant making it look awful. The sand trick is also usefull in high traffic areas so it doesn't get stuck on shoes. A Little Sand on top has no affect on longevity of the sealent. Your getting this info from the crackmaster himself.
Very useful video! There's always something new out there to learn
Thank you for your tip and take the time to sharing.
Hey man pretty good tutorial. A few tips from a guy that has owned a caulking company for 30 years. If you use a 2 part polyurethane caulk you stop a lot of bubbling issues because it cures all at once. Instead of the top curing first. Another tip, Sonneborn, now Masterseal SL-2 Slope grade works way better. You can over shoot it, then back tool excess and you have a perfect joint. That material would have also bridged the height difference of the crack at that one end. There are way more colors with the SL-2 too.
Thanks so much for the feedback. I had good luck with Sika in the past but never used the Masterseal SL-2 for any of the jobs. 👍
I have installed miles of SL2 ,very seldom use anything but slope grade. You are absolutely correct that it is a better product. I can give many examples of it lasting 20-30 +years when installed correctly( it will fade )For one thing it has to be tooled to insure 100% contact with the substrate.But 2 component ( actually 3) is out of the skill and equipment range of 99% of homeowners.
And the bubbles on very hot days are usually ( not always) because of not properly preparing the joint.
1. Not grinding the sides of the joint, when talking about jagged cracks, leaving small voids that trap air. Tooling can help
2 .leaving gaps in the backer rod.again leaving air pockets. Again tooling can help
3. Using sand as a backer. Sand is never acceptable. Doesn’t matter if you tool it there will always be air trapped in the sand.
I have seen it many times. Even with multi component sealant and lousy workmanship. Often if you cut out sealant that was installed over sand you will find it filled with small air bubbles. It appears fine on the surface but will fail prematurely.
I have been a professional caulker for over 45 years and spent a lot of those years proving why sealant and waterproofing systems failed, for a group of architects and attorneys that would hold incompetent contractors accountable. (BTW it wasn’t always the contractors fault)
And your comment about backtooling. Back tooling alone is never sufficient. It needs to be tooled in both directions. No Exceptions. Not saying you meant backtooling was all you need just clarifying for homeowners.
I have this situation but it is asphalt. Some of the gaps are approaching and inch. Any recommendations?.....thanks....
For asphalt cracks there's a material called CIM, or CIM 1000. You can get it in side by side cartridges. It's expensive, but it will stick to asphalt REALLY well. You have to apply it when the substraight is cooling in temperature or it will bubble. Also the working time is short, so be fast. That's the best stuff, but if the job doesn't support the material cost you can use an asphalt based one part material that will do the job. It just won't last as long. I hope this helps.
What type of caulk do you use when you have a slight down hill driveway grade?
I recently did moms drive. She had same issue. I put polymeric sand in first then watered it as
Per instructions then did the SLC and did the sand trick on top to blend it in. She couldn’t believe how good it was
Using polymeric sand is a very bad idea for several reasons. 1 backer rod gives the sealant the proper profile. 2 the sealant will bond to the polymeric sand creating a 3 sided bond. THE WORST CARDINAL SIN YOU CAN CREATE WHEN INSTALLING SEALANT. The addition of sand on top of the sealant , while it may look good shortens the lifespan even more.
As a professional anyone did any of these things I would be fired.
@@genecarden780 I don't get #2: At worst the polymeric sand will shear at the point of contact with the sealant, and there goes your 3 sided bond. Also, won't the sealant bond to the closed cell foam 'rod' and create a '3 sided' bond?
@@luisderivas6005 no it usually won’t shear,it will usually pull free from the sides first. It takes surprisingly little restriction of movement to cause sealant to fail. Just being slightly too thick will cause the sealant to fail prematurely. There are always exceptions. But that is only a matter of luck.
No,sealant does not bond to backer rod.
Amazing information. Thank you,
GE Advanced Silicone has done a great job for my asphalt driveway.
From my experience choosing the right size of backer rod and/or filling deep voids is important. Last time I did this I found one or two spots where the caulk just drained away and I had to quickly come up with a solution to plug the leak.
Great video as always. I am dealing with similar issue on our driveway where there is some settling in the apron area as well as the stoop where there is a section of a through-concrete crack as well. For the area where the concrete is cracked all the way through, one side of the concrete is a bit higher than the other like you showed in this video (closer to the tree). For my fix, I was planning to use the steps in your other video to raise the slab using foam and hopefully bring the two sides closer in height before filling the gap with backer rod or pool noodle (as in yet another of your video) and then the sealant on top.
As I was watching this video, I was wondering why you decided not to lift with foam where there was a height difference between the two sides of the concrete (closer to the tree) before filling with backer road and sealant? Just trying to learn if there might be criteria (e.g. use foam if the height difference is more than x inches?). Thanks for another informative video.
Scott..suggestion (or video) for how i can fill gaps between my house & patio pavers?
Nice work dude
Always wonderful and thorough information, thank you!
You bet, thanks for the support 👍
How can you blend the crack more to the old concrete? What kind of sand are you using?
Something I do when repairing cracks and the cement has raised in some places is I will go and use a 4” diamond cup disc on my angle grinder to flatten it out then bacically paint the selant onto the cut portion and then apply some sand, for white/grey cement I’ll use a white/tan/black sand mix to match the original texture/color
Grinding the high side with a diamond cup is a good idea everything else you said ud plain ignorant
thanks very useful demonstration.
Hi, I applied sealent to crack but it has blisters and bubbles and it is not solid at all. What should I do in this case?
Well spoke and well detailed video. Thank you I appreciate it
Happy to help!
Excellent promo for Gorilla Tape.
Really appreciated this video, hadn't thought to prep the concrete first.
Great job on video!
Thank you for the video. What do you suggest for a walk in cooler at temps at 34-42 degrees?
I’ve had voids develop, washed out by the drainage behaviour you demonstrated. Without support any repair would flex & crack. I just had to drill a pattern of holes along the crack and up to a foot either side, holes pitched 6” apart. Then it was a matter of injecting grout very carefully to avoid hydraulic jacking of the concrete. A few holes took pints of grout, clearly voids! After a month to let everything cure I finished filling the crack, no need for backer. Four years on and no new cracks, phew,
Thanks for this great tutorial, you explained it so well that I feel I can do this myself instead of waiting for my husband to do it 😂. I was wondering what do you think of using spray insulation foam instead of pool noddle for bigger and wider cracks? Since in the end is the same material as the pool noodle I think it can be great for bigger and deeper cracks, especially those that get narrower as the bottom and are hard to fill, the spray foam insulation nozzle can reach those narrow nooks and crannies with more precision.
Thanks, good information and video. I will use the sand idea.
You bet 👍
Good job Poindexter!
To level out the surfaces outside of the crack, how about shaving the concrete down on one side to make it all even at that spot? Or is that too involved? I just thought that that would discourage moisture from finding the crack and insure that the repaired crack would hold up longer and stronger.
Grind it down as it was only 1/4 inch, it will look whiter for a while but eventually start to match.
I believe it would be helpful to have a discussion of when to address cracking. We recently had a driveway poured that began to display cracking within a year of installation and was was faced with the consideration of what is normal and when should I intervene. I eventually intervened and applied a self leveling sealant (sika) that failed within a year. I am well aware that the elevated adobe clay content of the soil and high water table of the region are two factors that absolutely screw our chances of success, but still feel like the conversation would be beneficial.
The crack will surface tru the sealant or overlay
It’s too late since your driveway is already poured. Pavers are more forgiving with cracking since they are already “cracked” via being floor bricks and the cost vs concrete is about the same or only slightly more.
You should sue whoever installed the concrete. There are very specific protocols and regulations to address this. In every region. This is unacceptable.
I love a nicely prepared crack
Thanks for informative video. First time i have seen your channel. To me it still looks obvious that there is a crack. How can we make it look better?
Out of curiosity, because the distal piece is higher than the proximal piece, won’t water still accumulate along the crack? This also doesn’t seem to address the trip hazard? What would be the best way to make it a more level surface between the two pieces? Thanks for the info! 👍🏻
Some water will still accumulate along the crack. However, the sealant will prevent it from going straight down under the crack. He indicated there was only 1/4 inch difference in height, so it shouldn't be too much of a trip hazard, but a possible solution would be grinding down the high side or lifting the lower side.
Well, the difference I would suggest is, don't use a "Concrete Crack Sealer" such as the 45 SSL. I used a product for concrete from the box store, and after two years, it had dried out, and pieces were coming out of the cracks. I had to dig all that hard shrunken cracked stuff out and start over .
What I started using several years ago is... don't laugh... Grey FLEX SEAL ! Yep, the stuff advertised on T.V. It's Liquid Rubber in a Can ! Seriously.
I cleaned out the driveway cracks with a screwdriver, and pressure washer, then stiff wire brush. Blew out the cracks with my leaf blower, when it was dry, I was ready for the Flex Seal. I bought the Grey, for my first Driveway cracks, a whole Gallon of it, but you can get it in Quarts also. Some of the first driveway cracks were up to 5/8" wide, and of course , all the way through. Other areas were less than a 1/4" wide. So for that one, I punched two holes in the Can top 1/4" , one to pour through and the other a vent on the other side, then carefully poured the Flex Seal into the cracks all the way to the top, allowing for settling. After 6 years when we left that house, not one joint had failed, no pull away, the Flex Seal moved with the driveway. Being Grey, it matched the Concrete fine, but you can add some sand to the top when the Flex Seal is fresh and wet, if you want, and that looks good too. For smaller cracks, and if you are messy, I got a LARGE industrial plastic Syringe from off the internet, and just draw the Flex Seal out of a Quart Can, and slowly squirt it into the cracks. I've use this method several times, including a brand new sidewalk, in the expansion joints and where it joined the driveway, so water doesn't get in a freeze, causing cracking in the first place. Again total Success !
And No, Phil Swift isn't a relative or anything. The stuff just works well for Concrete Cracks.
Absolutely wrong this us one of the products that professionals use. When installed correctly it will last 20-30 years
Can you paint it and not leave tire marks after you drive over it?
@@genecarden780 Well , as I said.. I tried that and in Two years that " professional " filler was cracking and coming out. It didn't remain flexible enough to keep from pulling away as the seasons cycled , so it was a failure.
@@fredericschilling6416 Don't know about painting the Flex Seal, that's why I use the Grey. It closely matched the Driveway concrete color. And I used some Sand to sprinkle on top to help blend the color as I poured it into the cracks. Still looks good even though we moved years ago.
@@jameslester4474 you said you used a “product for concrete from a big box store” Not 45 SSL. And if it dried out, and cracked and fell out, it was either not 45SSL, was not installed correctly or it was possibly (actually very likely at a big box store ) very old out of date material.
when installed CORRECTLY 45SSL WILL LAST 15-20 years or more. It is pedestrian grade polyurethane sealant from a reputable company that has a proven track record. It will remain flexible.There are 100s of miles of it satisfactorily in use. ( don’t blame 45SSL)
Almost all sealants sold at big box stores, like Dap in particular, are cheap consumer garbage. No matter what they claim. If it dried out and fell out,my bet is you used one of the cheap brands.
The 3 exceptions at big box stores are Tremco, GE, and Sika products.All 3 make industrial grade products. ( there may be1 or 2 others that I am unaware of being sold at big box stores)
Tremco, GE, Sika and Dow, ( among others ) all offer 20 year performance guarantees to qualified installers. ( the installers have to be qualified because 90% of sealant failure is due to improper installation). Real guarantees, not the ones offered to consumers that require you to keep the receipts and empty containers and are only “good as long as you own the home”. Actual guarantees in writing, included in the construction documents.The fact that you used flex seal tells me all I need to know. Real “ quality” sealants and waterproofing , are marketed to the waterproofing industry. Not sold in infomercials. While flex seal can work, in the waterproofing industry it is considered an emergency, temporary fix. And almost no one uses it. If you used 45SSL and it failed it is 90% probability you are to blame.
Hey enjoying your video very much. Question, if I don’t use a backer Rod to fill the depth of the crack would it be ok to use fine dry sand but leave at least 1/4 for my poly material?
let's start this way, the backer rod supports the semi-self leveling sealant, else it would just get sinking down and down into the crack. The sand would fill that void and allow the sealent to brdige the gap. That is my final answer, you should be fine.
wait, down below a guy says no polymeric sand ! IDK
Great video Scott! Super common problem.
I think this was a great video. But if you going to do all that work I would of taken a expanding spray foam such as “Great stuff” (not the most rigid out there once it dries but the original formula is actually pretty stout) and sprayed it down into the crack. If you have a crack larger than a quarter inch or 6-12 months old you most likely have under washing beneath the driveway. Some subsurface erosion. If driveway had proper gavel, tamping, and installation. Only roots or water erosion will cause uneven heights in concrete.
So the expanding foam will fill in all the holes and gaps left over from water erosion. And prevent for an extra extended period of time the sinking concrete sinking farther. Can’t be the extra soft cell stuff for like around windows and doors though. Then trim it 48 hours later and it will also act as your backer rod. Then seal it with any quality sealant like you used in video.
Using the foam should buy you at least few years before any additional slab sinking and sealing the crack prevents future water erosion buying you at least a few years also.
Lastly I would dig to and chop the roots 2’ back from the driveway. They should be only 4”-12” deep and close to in line with crack if it was involved.
Well that was a fun book to write lol. Thank you to the 1 person that eventually reads this whole thing ha
good jobs guys
It would be beneficial to find the invasive roots and cut them just outside the driveway to prevent further lifting
Wow good job!
Well done!
Thanks!
I had a crack and my driveway too and moved. Problem fixed :) Good video.
I wonder if your trick with the sand would work better if you used a polymeric sand rather than just conventional sand. You may not even need to apply the sealant since polymeric sand will harden once it is wetted. Maybe on larger cracks it would be necessary to do both sealant and polymeric sand. Polymeric sand is the same type of sand used for pavers and it works fairly well in that application. I've never tried it on a driveway crack, but your video got me thinking that maybe it would work better.
Thank you for recording and posting this educational video.
Is there a different technique to use if you're repairing a hydronically heated interior concrete floor? The cracks are much smaller than exterior driveway cracks. Also what do you recommend to use to replace the caulk/grout(?) between the interior heated floor rectangular sections? Does cement grout work for both? Thanks, Al
What's your opinion of using minimally expanding foam instead of backer rod?
Absolutely bad idea.I have been a professional caulker fir over 45 years. If I use anything as a filler other than backer rod the warranty is void. Backer rod provides 3 essential functions in caulking. It provides depth control. It prevents a 3 sided bond but probably most important function is it provides the proper profile for the sealant to perform correctly. ALWAYS USE BACKER ROD
That is good crack advice, but concrete levelling is so good.
So the product is heat stable after curing?
Good effort! some things I would have done differently 1) I would not have used backer rod. I would have used more calk instead 2) Since one side of the slab had dropped at least 1/4 inch, I would have used an angle grinder to make the two surfaces level before applying the sealant. By not doing that, you still have a trip edge
Thank you very much…
Good, I like it. Thanks.
i would have done a rough 45 deg on the high side where the step is large with a diamond face disk prior to filling, but otherwise looks good for now. I like Sika.
I didn't use the Tremco Voice 45 SSL but Silka Pro Select Construction Sealant for my concrete drive way and side of my house is way much better. Why? Everything that I buy, I've always read the customer reviews (has to be 4.7 out of 5.00) based on their experiences and I've had no regrets before they have always worked .
I did my driveway and sidewalk expansion joints last summer and used Silka Pro as well. I ended up buying a big caulking gun and using the 29oz tubes (use 6 total) because they were considerably a better deal.
Prep work was a bit of work but the sealant went down quick and had no issues. Hope to finish the sidewalks coming up to the house this summer, they ran out of Silka at the local HD last summer and didn't get any back in stock before the rainy season. lol
I am a professional caulker and Sika products are VERY good. But in this instance SSL is a better product. It is specifically formulated for this specific application.
And for the customer reviews they are a very good way to judge a lot of products. But can any of those reviewers claim to have the installed over 100 MILES of sealant?
Silka rep informed me that they will soon be releasing a self leveling for slopes i.e. somewhat self leveling. I dusted the nearly set surface with sand with great aesthetic results. Sands come in varying colors (gray to brown) and found one that was similar gray to my concrete pool surround. I also used a combo of no sag and self leveling to fill cracks created between the pool coping stones. Used a 4" stone grinding wheel to enlarge the crack allowing for an adequate width of sealant, preventing water seepage and freeze/thaw issues. Time will tell how well the materials hold up over a few winters.
Did you explore tree side to check your root theory? Another technique would be to get some pea gravel and compress into sealant help hide repair.
Can this method be used on asphalt driveways with a similar sized crack?
Great common sense tips-Thank You!
Thanks!
You bet, I appreciate the support 👊
After watching your video I have to wonder if epoxy resin and sand might not be a good way to approach this. Pour in some resin add some sand until you have filled the crack with mix of sand saturated with epoxy I would think the sand/epoxy mix would add some mechanical strength to the repair at least in shear strength. and probably a moisture seal. I have a crack that I haven't repaired yet and have been noodling over how I might approach the repair.
Can you paint it afterward???
? I have a small …less than an inch…gap between the blacktop and concrete apron of my driveway. This gap had been filled by the road crew when some roadwork was done several years ago and now the sealant is crumbling away. Would I use the same method/ products that you used on your concrete driveway?
What kind of sand do you recommend? Fine play sand or coarse construction grade sand?
Could you slightly underfill a crack with this product and then apply a concrete patch repair over it to give a smoother finish? Or would that weaken the bond of the concrete patch? I have a similar crack across the front of my garage, which is slightly pitched to allow drainage out the front (1950's build, no floor drain). I'd like to be able to smooth over the repaired surface so that I don't impede that drainage.
The concrete patch is a very bad idea on any active ( moving)crack period. This joint is obviously active. Very few concrete cracks are static
Great Tips
Do you have guides on roof deck cracks that has water leaks under the concrete when there is water or rain?
I need to do this to my driveway soon. It was kinda repaired similar to what you recommended but now it needs a little more.
Scott to your point of looking ahead actually try to “push the bubble” ahead of the tip. Takes a little experience but you have the skill and it will improve your caulking. I have taught MANY apprentices. The bubbles in high temps are more due to improper prep. Trapping air in your installation. Primarily due to using sand.Stop using sand. Search out “ sof rod” backer rod. It is an open cell backer rod( open cell is generally a bad choice for flatwork) but sof rod has a waterproof coating kind of making it a kind of hybrid that is significantly softer allowing it to be installed in much smaller joints. Also buy a “ crack chaser” blade for your mini grinder. It is specifically made for this and it’s “V” shape makes it very easy to follow the crack. This is what true professional caulkers do. I have repaired miles of these type cracks. I have many examples that are 20 plus years old
Another reason to repair this is that much water running into the crack when it rains will also undermine the concrete leading to bigger issues down the road.
What type of caulk should I use? I currently bought 2 Sikaflex + which is the self-leveling sealant with polyurethane. Is this a good product? I probably shouldn’t have bought the self-leveling, because my driveway is on an angle. I live in Utah.
@@jasonbingham1818 Sika makes really good products. It should say on the cartridge or online how much slope is ok.
Thank you for your speedy reply!
Question: do you fill the crack flush with existing cement, and do you add just a sprinkle of sand afterwards
@@jasonbingham1818 how high you fill it is kinda of up to you. The closer you get to flush the more susceptible it is to damage by abrasion. So if it is on a driveway I would leave it very slightly recessed. You can sprinkle it with sand if you want, but it will shorten the lifespan. So again it’s kinda up to you. As a professional caulker we never use sand
Thank you. Unfortunately we had an earthquake. There is a difference in angle, where one has dropped lower than the other. To fix this properly, I would have to have a cement company come and inject and raise the pad, the do the sealant. Technically I need to replace the whole driveway because there is a lot of spiderwebbing going on. I just don’t have the funds. The square footage would be approximately $10k. I have watched videos of masonries use cement-all, then apply a sealant (?) coating, which makes it look like new concrete. However I would have to price it out
What is backer rod? Where do you get it (what department, location at Home Depot etc? I’ve never heard of the stuff before.
Is THAT the final result? My Handyman customer would not accept that.