Nylon Cup Brush (For Drill): geni.us/3iESD Tremco Vulkem 45 SSL: geni.us/FiPeg Pool Noodles: geni.us/g6EIi 1" Backer Rod (25'): geni.us/qo7b0Ry 3/4" Backer Rod (20'): geni.us/bCyfQBy 5/8" Backer Rod (20'): geni.us/Yhxznv8 1/2 Backer Rod (20'): geni.us/C1J5p DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
I wish I had known about this long ago!! My dad’s electric wheelchair had a hard time going over gaps, caused by tree roots, when going to our wheelchair van. Sometimes the ramp would settle on a crack and not sit level. This caused the ramp to tilt when he drive the wheelchair into the van. The cracks in the sidewalk were also large and hard to get across. These were situations that were a serious tipping hazard. Sadly, Dad passed away two weeks ago. He’d have approved of your fix. He had ideas like this, too. Thanks for sharing. I’ve subscribed and look forward to more helpful information.
I found this video by accident looking for something else and I'm glad I did! I have a large crack in a sidewalk that I had filled several years ago by a mud jacker. Didn't last only 2 years. Also 2 sections of sidewalk have spread apart and garage floor and driveway have split apart. Should be easy peasy fix for An 84 yr old woman by herself to do! Thanx!
Nice presentation. Having done this job on a windy late-fall day, I appreciate your thoughtful sand idea. Tiny leaves swirling into self-leveling goo is a nightmare.
I am a mason for over 35 years and what you did with the pool noodle isn't a bad idea especially with the crooked Crack because the noodle is flexible, but I would suggest using quick-create, just mix with water, it's premixed cement, just add water and mix. Then use a small hand garden shovel it in, push down on the cement to get gaps and air pockets out of the cement. When cement gets to a putty type concestansy take a large damp sponge and run it the length of the Crack and feather it in to both sides of Crack, you can do it with the stuff in the tube but you sill have to feather and level the product that comes out of tube
@@Keenadoesitall Feathering is moving the new cement up against the old cement, like blending it to the old cement,usually done with a tool called a hand float, but in a homeowners case most likely would have such tool, take a large sponge dip it in water and ring it out so it is just damp and blend it up to old cement, the most important thing is to make sure rain water or sprinkle water does not get into the old Crack. Now it depends on the climate you live in, if it freezes in winter you don't want water to get into repair and sit and freezes, it will Crack. That is the best I can explain, feathering is just blending up to old cement, good luck
Go with low expansion urethane instead of baker rod. Applied gently with cleaning off the excess after 20-30 min (time to get ready for next step) You will then start to use urethane for almost every gap/void/volume filling inside or outside. Very nice talent that God gave you. You're definitely giving good fruits with all your videos. I like your humility and your hardworking being.
EXCEPTIONAL tutorial video - so clear, concise and straight to the point! I love the way you cover every little detail, including warning what to do/what NOT to do. You make it look so easy, even I could probably do it. Therefore, I have liked, subscribed & clicked the bell. I will be following you along your journey, so keep up the GREAT work, Scott. U THA' MAN!!!
This is nice and I’m glad you showed the trick of sprinkling the sand on top which definitely makes it blend in better! I’ve seen places that were caulked w/o that step and it looks terrible and sticks out like a sore thumb.
If you use the sand on a crack instead of a joint people tend to bring the caulking to the top and then add sand. The patch will then be higher than the cracks. Make sure you leave it down from the top just a smidge if you are adding sand. I personally dont care for the sand look but its just a preference.
I saw a man fixing and patching someones front steps and he got some dirt and mixed in for it to look more like the old cement he was patching!! not a bunch but enough to take away the "new" look, and it worked!
@@therebellion6911 Hi. What’s the difference between a crack and a joint? Meaning, even if you do a joint, aren’t you supposed to leave the sealant slightly below the concrete to compensate for the sand as well? Thank you
Carefully explained & clearly demonstrated, with just the right amount of speed-up, and NO CHITCHAT OR MUSIC. And important info about drainage issues in freeze-thaw climates. Thank you!! Instead of the drill attachment, a wire brush would also work, right?
Using a pool noodle for backer rod for cracks is absolutely great thinking. The thickness of the calking is critical to making a successful repair. . Read the information on the label to find what that is. To create that consistent thickness, I use a scrap of board with a wooden spacer tacked on it and run it the length of the backer it pushes the backer rod down to the correct depth consistently. When the calk is too thick it doesn't stretch properly and will pull away from the concrete and the joint still leaks.
Thank goodness I found you! I have to take care of my home on my own. I wouldn't know some of the pitfalls if you didn't express them. Although I can understand "semi-leveling" v "self leveling" Unless you explained what happens in this instance, I wouldn't understand in its practical usage. Same with the duct tape. Wouldn't have thought to cap the end like that, and if I did....I wouldn't have thought about the caulk sticking without you adding that in. Those 2 things would have made this a fail for me. So thank you so much!
@@networkedperson -take a break netwoke person. I guarantee that you’re using products that exploit child labor or that your daily habits are contributing to global warming so please peddle your hypocrisy elsewhere.
I’m a school teacher so THIS, and your previous video of cleaning and sealing smaller driveway cracks, are going to be my first summer mini project. Thanks for a great, solid, straight to the point video. I’ve used a flat bladed shovel and ground clear every year, but now… my game just levels up. Thanks!!
Thank you for this! I am dealing with a cracked concrete driveway and this is a great solution. I think it will be much safer to walk on once I finish the project.
I really appreciate this video! I've tried filling a growing crack in cement with wet cement and dry cement at different times and neither lasted. This is the best, affordable solution in my opinion. Thanks so much for this!
Great overview! I've done several of these repairs of irregular cracks using spray foam to create a backer, which is not as easy as it sounds. I've needed to carefully carve down the foam to be below grade, so I get a clean installation of SSL. I'm going to use the pool noodle next time!
For a more substantial joint, I pack the seam/crack with pea gravel to about half inch depth from the top. Then fill the joint with the joint filler. Much less likely to pop out or be "ejected" due to ground movement.
If you do not fix the problem which caused the crack, there will be trouble on the horizon. I am fixing cracks at our mountain property using an asphalt based Lowe's product, but filling most of the crack with gravel first, then topping it off. Not perfect, cannot be applied too thick at once and it requires going back over more than once after drying in. This guy's method does not look as good for what we have but then none of our gaps are as large, so I can understand that his problem requires a different solution.
Good stuff, you cant rush the early steps. I had a boss once that saw me half assing something he said " You do all the steps or you will be stepping to another job" . Never forget it.
Excellent idea. Absolute genius! Using pool noodles to fix cracks in a concrete sidewalks. Using pool noodles in your yard is definitely better than letting all those pool noodles get into the wastestream and thus threatening our precious natural resources.
I have 1/4" to 3/4" gaps in several spots. Already had my backer rod. Didn't know what to use for a sealant. The SSL sealant was the final step I needed. The sand topping was a bonus. Great video....thanks. Happy 4th of July.
Thanks for this! Not nearly as much information for large ragged cracks...just the small ones. Gonna buy the materials tonight and get going on my old patio tomorrow! Very clear video!
This is a pretty elegant solution. I owned a home where the garage slab cracked and had I known how to do this, I would have. This is a 100% solution versus using patchmaster to fill the gap which in hind sight was a 50% solution.
TH-cam recommended me this video by accident when I was looking for something else, but I am glad it did! I will be using your method next weekend to fix cracks in the walkway. Thank you for this video.
Very nice results - looks great! Will be using this repair on sidewalk at an apartment complex. Heh would you consider showing us how you keep your tools and material organized? Earlier I noticed your tote for electrical connectors. Thinking I need one just like it! For those of us that do sidewalk, yard drainage, electrical and plumbing all in the same week, how to keep everything organized! Awesome channel for DIYers and multi-trades maintenance folks. Thanks!
What I do is, clean as he does, dig out all the debris in the gap (as deep as the concrete is) then tape over the edges and fill the gap with waterproof expanding foam. When that dries I use a wire cup bit on a hand drill to remove excess foam to about 1/2" depth. Then finish up with self leveling sealant caulk.
@@annfraley7083 ... Before I apply the expanding foam I mask the edges of the concrete, the top surface. I use 2" painters tape so if there is any over expansion of the foam it won't spill out over the top surface of the concrete. Once the foam has dried, it's easy to break off any excess foam before cutting/grinding out the top 1/2" or so of foam.
I think I might like this idea better as I'm not very good with my hands, and I don't think that I would cut the pool noodle as well as he does. I would probably end up making it look worse than it already does lol. But I liked all the other things that he shared in the video
I tried something a bit different. I used Dow expanding spray foam to fill the crack. It dries quickly, then I used the ssl to seal up. Worked great and saved me the time of having to cut and shape backer foam. A word of caution, don't go buck wild with the spray foam, it expands big time.... Whichever way you go, the crack gets fixed....
It is very difficult to control joint depth with foam. And for the SSL to perform properly the depth needs to be very consistent. And the profile of the sealant will be incorrect. These things matter for the sealant to perform properly.It is a quicker and easier solution but not a quality solution .
Essentially a large size foam backer rod. My Grandfather used to use the tiny backer rods to fill sidewalk cracks followed up with some sort of concrete compatible caulking. I'm not sure what he used but his repairs would often last more than a decade. I could probably swing by his home that he lived in long ago and built in 1986 and they'd still be there long after my Grandfather has been gone.
I was sooo ready to jump down this video, since I used pool noodles and self-leveling caulk last summer. With totally disastrous results, despite having been quite careful with the prep. Pool noodles began to rise to the surface, caulk discolored (Silka pro).... anyway, I decided to watch your video to the very end to see what I might have done wrong. Count me humbled. Starting with the grill grinding cement edges to everything thereafter, I learned some valuable lessons. Now for the hard part ... wanna come to my house and film a video on how to remove the stuff and start over?? LOL. Keep up the great work.
You'd be surprised how many fault lines, both active & ancient, run thru the Midwest. Even Minnesota has a fault line. The Great Lakes Tectonic Zone runs from Big Stone & Traverse County to Duluth and while not very seismically active compared to the San Andreas, it has produced some decent "I felt that"-type quakes.
I’m so glad I found this video. My house has several large irregular cracks in the back driveway due to ground fluxuation. Numerous attempts by various individuals has ultimately failed in filling these cracks and I’ve been left with vegetation taking over these areas. I am so glad to find a permanent solution to this ongoing issue. Looks like I’ll be buying lots of pool noodles in my future (something I never thought I’d be purchasing.) Thanks for your highly informative, step by step video.
Best of luck on the project this specific crack is holding strong 2 years later 👍. Make sure you get the Tremco Vulkem 45 SSL. That stuff is good and with proper prep will hold for years.
I used a very similar technique to repair concrete walkway, but instead of sprinkling sand as the last step, I used some dry mortar mix. The finished product will more closely match the concrete walkway.
Great video ! As mentioned, before using pool noodles as backer rods, check if they are open-cell or closed-cell foam. Remember how squeezing some kinds of pool noodles leads to water dripping out? Those are made of open-cell foam. Open cell or Polyurethane foam will soak in water and is not a good choice for filling material in concrete. Closed cell or Polyethylene foam is a much better choice.
You could use an expandable foam vs. the Backer rod so you can avoid going back and forth with cutting the Backer rod to suit the cracks. An even easier method IMO is to use a pre-mix cement screed which you can buy as a dry-mix in a bag. Just add the recommended water and pour into the cracks directly. It does have admixtures that would prevent cracking between the old and new concrete. Trust this helps.
I think I have seen a mason on TH-cam do something similar instead of sand. I think his mixture was 3 parts sand to 1 part portland cement and then he wetted it to the consistency of wet sand. He packed that in the crack. It would stiffen up but remain flexible over time.
No foam or processed chemical adhesives, some crushed recycled construction waste with some cement pored onto them and everything is fixed naturally. Even stones that are around your property, if they weren't naturally formed and they come from construction, or you can buy you any recycled construction waste of the appropriate size , have a bucket for any eventuality and you can always use them as filler or even cast some bricks if you need any.
Actually using noodle is better because that caulking form is thinner on middle and wider on side which means thin part flex easier and wide parts sticks well to concrete. IF that caulking is same thickness whole area it can peel of easier.
Trouble with expandable foam is laying a perfect bead down to suit expansion rate. This almost never happens, which means shaving it down - p.i.t.a. The noodle is cheap and bendy: perfect for irregular lines.
For a smaller crack but still large enough that it would need a lot of sealant, I had good results stuffing in pieces of or whole corks saved from wine bottles that I had on hand, then sealant over. I like the suggestion of putting sand in deeper cracks.
I wish I had this video 15 years ago. I had a few big cracks close to the foundation of my house causing a leak into my basement. I was able to stop the leak, but not as efficiently as this! So ThankYou for this very informative video!
If slabs are at different levels, drill a 1/4" hole, insert the nozzle of Expanding Foam and watch the sidewalk rise. May take a couple of cans but much cheaper than calling in a slab jacker.
@fartpoobox ohyeah you really need to learn the difference between how open cell and two part closed cell foams work. Claiming 'i seen it on TH-cam' is certainly amusing though, as if everything on the Internet is real.
With just 1,2 or 13 cans of Great stuff foam it doesn't work on sidewalks or on wheelbarrow tires overtime the foam compresses and can't hold the weight of the slab or load of wheelbarrow stuff. Save your money and hire a pro to break up small part of slab and re pour. Eventually what I did. I got an amazing deal on a 27 lb jackhammer from Amazon for $110 I own this thing it's a beast and manageable without too much difficulty. One day rental is 75 bucks I've definitely used it more than 10 days already and it comes with that great little plastic case, dorky goggles, useless gloves. I threw out and use my own. straight from China. Doesn't matter it's still a beast "Xtreme power" I think it's called. Or use the part 2 whatever Brandon might be talking about. I can't verify that. TH-cam is your friend but it can also be your enemy and lead you down the wrong path. You just have to be able to decipher between the two. I'm only speaking from experience!
Super helpful! Really love the tip on sprinkling sand on it. I’ve seen so many without the sand and they are way more noticeable. Sand really does a great job of masking the repair.
Very cool, I'm also a crafter so I always have the pool noodles! I also learned from another channel who uses this & foam in his monster props, that you can use a heat gun to make the foam stick/glue itself together if you want to 😉
@@bethanyanderson1745 You can shape it, stretch it, stick it to itself, check out Stiltbeaststudios pool noodle pumpkins. He uses pool noodles, foam pipe insulation all the time & learned the technique from him.
@@Vro- - thank you for replying. I'm not a handyman so perhaps that's why I'm not seeing the connection between filling a cement crack and heating a pool noodle /foam.
Wish I’d seen this some years earlier. I have concrete steps with a massive crack that goes always through. I filled it up with spray foam, not the best fix but it keeps the wasps out. I’m going to rework the crack using this method. Thanks.
You just got a new Sub, I found your channel for replacing my disposal and looked around and you have several vids of thing I NEED to do lol. Great detail on everything you cover.
I love it. The solid concrete will continue to move but with the sand, foam, and the self leveling caulking will move as the environment demands. Where did you buy the self levelling caulking?
Cool! You make things look easy, yet, doable! I love your pace, explanations, and clarity. Even, I, think I might be able to do that! - I like your videos! 😀 -Thank you!
13:20 I've also mixed spare Mortar Powder with the Sand, for repairs like this. Seem to me that the Powder would harden, and prevent the Sand from washing away.
Thanks so much for your video I've had a gap on my walkway for over 6 years and couldn't afford to have it professionally fixed. It worked out great. It took me about an hour and it's now drying. Thank you. I'm a senior (lady) and I learned a lot.
THis is wonderful! My family and I got a new home and I almost tripped going up the stairs. I definitely will do this to fix the trip spot. Thank you!!!!
Joints with this obvious amount of movement require primer. On the cartridge it usually says something to the effect of “ no primer required for most substrates” But if you read the material literature it will tell you to prime joints like this. I installed sealant for a living and on a lot of projects we would use thousands of gallons of sealant. When you use these amounts a material rep will show up to make sure it is installed correctly and every time they would say to prime or the material guarantee is void. If you are going to take the time to clean the joint properly ,as the video shows, you might as well brush on the proper primer.
@@billbaillie3702 unfortunately that takes a little research. Every product may require a different primer so it is impossible for me to give you a good answer. But you should be able to find out pretty easily on the manufacturer website. Just be sure to locate the primer for the specific sealant and substrate ( in this case concrete) you choose.This is what I found for Vulkem 45 SSL :Where deemed necessary, use Vulkem® Primer #191 Low-VOC QD on porous substrates You can usually find this information on the material data sheet. Primer is also recommended because even though it is semi self leveling it is still supposed to be dry tooled( something very difficult for a homeowner to do correctly) Most people think that dry tooling the sealant is cosmetic but it is actually to gently force the sealant against the side of the joint to ensure good adhesion.
@@genecarden780 Thanks. I was thinking it would be something Vulkem compatible, I've never seen a primer product available where I usually purchase Vulkem. Are you spraying water or a specific liquid on the fresh Vulkem prior to tooling?
@@billbaillie3702 NO never use anything on the sealant to tool it.That is why it is called dry tooled. Any type of liquid will interfere with the bond. Anytime you see someone wet tooling it is a sure sign they don’t know what they are doing. That is the real advantage of SSL is the tool marks will flow out so you don’t have to be as good at tooling the sealant
Good video. 2 suggestions I have is… 1. pressure wash the sidewalk and repair site first if pressure washer is available…. 2. For the jagged crack I would get a electric saw with a concrete blade and make straight clean edges first.
As a professional remodeler. Loved videos you have done leveling the cement slab and filing driveway joints. Just wonder why don’t use Quic-Krete cement or mortar which is gray and blend better than tan/brown sand when you sprinkle onto the wet urethane caulk. Again I LOVE your videos, very well spoken
Thanks. That was really helpful. The pool noodle is genius. I'm watching from Aotearoa/ New Zealand so won't be able to get the brands you mention but al least now l have got ideas on what to use.
I'll be doing this soon. I was planning to apply a light dusting of cement atop the sealant. I think it would be a better color match than sand. Or is that a bad idea?
I bought an older home and there are a lot of these crakes, this looks like something I can do myself even with my achy old body lol. Thank you so much.
Thank you for a gr8 video share which posted on my birthday. Our home cement problems were caused by idiots from Cox, DirecTV, DISH , Quest Communication workers who have vandalized cement and cement wall footing in the public access easement . At least you help us repair the damage after their happy butts leave after their cable installs.
This is a cool idea but I've found that using spray foam is much easier as it conforms to every bit of the crack in there and there's no need to make cuts unless you use too much
The spray foam contaminates the substrate and compromises the bond of the SSL. And it doesn’t give the proper joint profile of thinner in the middle and thicker at the sides which is essential for proper sealant performance
@@genecarden780 nope; and yes Spray Foam actually does give proper support and fills the voids, which w/o would allow for further erosion. Spray foam or mud pumped in to fill those large voids is the only right way to do it. And a SSL will not interact with spray foam.
I find pipe insulation noodles, which comes in various diameters, to be very useful. I haven't tried them as a backer rod for concrete cracks as you're doing, but they're useful for stuffing gaps between jambs and framing to insulate around doors and windows (before trim gets put on). You can cut it to any thickness.
Its funny how that really jagged crack was only an inch away from the relief cut placed in the concrete to prevent exactly that. I guess relief cuts should ideally be much deeper than what we typically do.
Hahaha i just was working outside today, started with looking at the abandoned years old pool noodle and thought about someday i will find a thing to do with it, it allready breaks itself down at the surfice. after the work i thought about restoring the old old driveway and gotten to this video haha 👍 thanks for the great idea :)
Nylon Cup Brush (For Drill): geni.us/3iESD
Tremco Vulkem 45 SSL: geni.us/FiPeg
Pool Noodles: geni.us/g6EIi
1" Backer Rod (25'): geni.us/qo7b0Ry
3/4" Backer Rod (20'): geni.us/bCyfQBy
5/8" Backer Rod (20'): geni.us/Yhxznv8
1/2 Backer Rod (20'): geni.us/C1J5p
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
I don’t even have the problems you fix most of the time, but you’re so engaging to watch, I watch them anyway.
Thanks for the support 👍
@@EverydayHomeRepairsI have a horizontal crack in my barn foundation wall. Do you think backer rod or pool noodle will work there
I wish I had known about this long ago!! My dad’s electric wheelchair had a hard time going over gaps, caused by tree roots, when going to our wheelchair van. Sometimes the ramp would settle on a crack and not sit level. This caused the ramp to tilt when he drive the wheelchair into the van. The cracks in the sidewalk were also large and hard to get across. These were situations that were a serious tipping hazard. Sadly, Dad passed away two weeks ago. He’d have approved of your fix. He had ideas like this, too. Thanks for sharing. I’ve subscribed and look forward to more helpful information.
THANKS!! I've had a large crack in my concrete patio for 25 years without EVER being able to get it fixed but NOW I'll be able to do it myself!!!!
did you do it? How did it turn out?
There's a quite satisfaction in seeing a problem get fixed while learning at the same time. Love these types of videos.
Good video thanks……be good to your knees tho…✌🌻
Great Video Scot, sprinkling the sand in at the end way a genius idea!
Thanks bro 👊
It genius for more cracks. Conc needs room to expand. Putting sand in the crack does not allow this. Incompressible. Otherwise great video
@@adbates 😂😂you think the pool noodle and caulking will stop the sand from being pushed vertically. Carry on.
@@adbates what?
I found this video by accident looking for something else and I'm glad I did! I have a large crack in a sidewalk that I had filled several years ago by a mud jacker. Didn't last only 2 years. Also 2 sections of sidewalk have spread apart and garage floor and driveway have split apart. Should be easy peasy fix for An 84 yr old woman by herself to do! Thanx!
Did this work for your sidewalk plz?
Man, that was genius. I love the way the sealant is liquidous and self levelling. Neat job. Thumbs up for me.
Omgoodness thank you for the step-by-step tutorial I'm sending this to my landlord.
Nice presentation. Having done this job on a windy late-fall day, I appreciate your thoughtful sand idea. Tiny leaves swirling into self-leveling goo is a nightmare.
I am a mason for over 35 years and what you did with the pool noodle isn't a bad idea especially with the crooked Crack because the noodle is flexible, but I would suggest using quick-create, just mix with water, it's premixed cement, just add water and mix. Then use a small hand garden shovel it in, push down on the cement to get gaps and air pockets out of the cement. When cement gets to a putty type concestansy take a large damp sponge and run it the length of the Crack and feather it in to both sides of Crack, you can do it with the stuff in the tube but you sill have to feather and level the product that comes out of tube
Yea mate thats good mail , also if it’s a hot day wet the concrete down first so it doesn’t suck that mix too quickly .
@@queenslander954 Good call, give both sides of old concrete a good dampening if it is a hot day👍
What's feathering
@@Keenadoesitall Feathering is moving the new cement up against the old cement, like blending it to the old cement,usually done with a tool called a hand float, but in a homeowners case most likely would have such tool, take a large sponge dip it in water and ring it out so it is just damp and blend it up to old cement, the most important thing is to make sure rain water or sprinkle water does not get into the old Crack. Now it depends on the climate you live in, if it freezes in winter you don't want water to get into repair and sit and freezes, it will Crack. That is the best I can explain, feathering is just blending up to old cement, good luck
Thank you! I was looking for a solution that doesn't involve any plastic!
Go with low expansion urethane instead of baker rod. Applied gently with cleaning off the excess after 20-30 min (time to get ready for next step) You will then start to use urethane for almost every gap/void/volume filling inside or outside. Very nice talent that God gave you. You're definitely giving good fruits with all your videos. I like your humility and your hardworking being.
EXCEPTIONAL tutorial video - so clear, concise and straight to the point! I love the way you cover every little detail, including warning what to do/what NOT to do. You make it look so easy, even I could probably do it. Therefore, I have liked, subscribed & clicked the bell. I will be following you along your journey, so keep up the GREAT work, Scott. U THA' MAN!!!
Boy...you are a magnet for cement issues! Finally...someone pickier than me...Cool Vid!
are you kidding it looks like shite
The doubled-up duct tape at the edges and sand sprinkled on at the very end were each a nice touch.
Never would have thought of that - great stuff, Scott!
Thanks Nils 👍
This is nice and I’m glad you showed the trick of sprinkling the sand on top which definitely makes it blend in better! I’ve seen places that were caulked w/o that step and it looks terrible and sticks out like a sore thumb.
Repent to Jesus Christ
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I wish i knew the sand trick when i sealed a crack in my walk. the lighter sealant really sticks out.
If you use the sand on a crack instead of a joint people tend to bring the caulking to the top and then add sand. The patch will then be higher than the cracks. Make sure you leave it down from the top just a smidge if you are adding sand. I personally dont care for the sand look but its just a preference.
I saw a man fixing and patching someones front steps and he got some dirt and mixed in for it to look more like the old cement he was patching!! not a bunch but enough to take away the "new" look, and it worked!
@@therebellion6911 Hi. What’s the difference between a crack and a joint? Meaning, even if you do a joint, aren’t you supposed to leave the sealant slightly below the concrete to compensate for the sand as well? Thank you
Carefully explained & clearly demonstrated, with just the right amount of speed-up, and NO CHITCHAT OR MUSIC. And important info about drainage issues in freeze-thaw climates. Thank you!! Instead of the drill attachment, a wire brush would also work, right?
Using a pool noodle for backer rod for cracks is absolutely great thinking. The thickness of the calking is critical to making a successful repair. . Read the information on the label to find what that is. To create that consistent thickness, I use a scrap of board with a wooden spacer tacked on it and run it the length of the backer it pushes the backer rod down to the correct depth consistently. When the calk is too thick it doesn't stretch properly and will pull away from the concrete and the joint still leaks.
Thank goodness I found you! I have to take care of my home on my own. I wouldn't know some of the pitfalls if you didn't express them. Although I can understand "semi-leveling" v "self leveling" Unless you explained what happens in this instance, I wouldn't understand in its practical usage. Same with the duct tape. Wouldn't have thought to cap the end like that, and if I did....I wouldn't have thought about the caulk sticking without you adding that in. Those 2 things would have made this a fail for me. So thank you so much!
Happy to help and thanks for all the great feedback 👍
@@EverydayHomeRepairs it would be nice if you would not take blood money from a certain corporation known for anti-social practices...
@@networkedperson are you a woke Lib
@@networkedperson -take a break netwoke person. I guarantee that you’re using products that exploit child labor or that your daily habits are contributing to global warming so please peddle your hypocrisy elsewhere.
@@networkedperson I hope he takes MORE,. screw the loud mouth woke
Thank you for your kindness! People like you make a positive difference in our society!
I cannot tell you how many projects around my house that you have given me the confidence to do. I really appreciate the information.
I’m a school teacher so THIS, and your previous video of cleaning and sealing smaller driveway cracks, are going to be my first summer mini project. Thanks for a great, solid, straight to the point video. I’ve used a flat bladed shovel and ground clear every year, but now… my game just levels up. Thanks!!
Thank you for this! I am dealing with a cracked concrete driveway and this is a great solution. I think it will be much safer to walk on once I finish the project.
I really appreciate this video! I've tried filling a growing crack in cement with wet cement and dry cement at different times and neither lasted. This is the best, affordable solution in my opinion. Thanks so much for this!
I thought I’d have to pay to jack up my patio. I’ll give it a try. Thanks.
Great overview! I've done several of these repairs of irregular cracks using spray foam to create a backer, which is not as easy as it sounds. I've needed to carefully carve down the foam to be below grade, so I get a clean installation of SSL. I'm going to use the pool noodle next time!
Hello 👋
For a more substantial joint, I pack the seam/crack with pea gravel to about half inch depth from the top. Then fill the joint with the joint filler. Much less likely to pop out or be "ejected" due to ground movement.
If you do not fix the problem which caused the crack, there will be trouble on the horizon. I am fixing cracks at our mountain property using an asphalt based Lowe's product, but filling most of the crack with gravel first, then topping it off. Not perfect, cannot be applied too thick at once and it requires going back over more than once after drying in. This guy's method does not look as good for what we have but then none of our gaps are as large, so I can understand that his problem requires a different solution.
@@replyhere590 thanks. The joint filler i use between stones is a flexible epoxy type and it seems to move and stretch somewhat without breaking seal
Good stuff, you cant rush the early steps.
I had a boss once that saw me half assing something he said " You do all the steps or you will be stepping to another job" .
Never forget it.
Excellent idea. Absolute genius! Using pool noodles to fix cracks in a concrete sidewalks. Using pool noodles in your yard is definitely better than letting all those pool noodles get into the wastestream and thus threatening our precious natural resources.
I have 1/4" to 3/4" gaps in several spots. Already had my backer rod. Didn't know what to use for a sealant. The SSL sealant was the final step I needed. The sand topping was a bonus. Great video....thanks. Happy 4th of July.
Sika 2 c ns I think it's called is what I used. I worked industrial. Usually want to use an open cell backer rod
City problem
Yes u have ants mice be3
@@terrymounts4371 - huh?
Careful you dont want to step on the crack that's what my mom said
Thanks for this! Not nearly as much information for large ragged cracks...just the small ones. Gonna buy the materials tonight and get going on my old patio tomorrow! Very clear video!
This is a pretty elegant solution. I owned a home where the garage slab cracked and had I known how to do this, I would have. This is a 100% solution versus using patchmaster to fill the gap which in hind sight was a 50% solution.
TH-cam recommended me this video by accident when I was looking for something else, but I am glad it did! I will be using your method next weekend to fix cracks in the walkway. Thank you for this video.
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You are such a great professional 👏 at teaching people the way to fix problems that bug us as we pass by that crack everyday. 🙂
Thank you for this video! Followed your instructions and now my sidewalk looks so much better!!
Awesome, nice work 🙌
Very nice results - looks great! Will be using this repair on sidewalk at an apartment complex.
Heh would you consider showing us how you keep your tools and material organized? Earlier I noticed your tote for electrical connectors. Thinking I need one just like it! For those of us that do sidewalk, yard drainage, electrical and plumbing all in the same week, how to keep everything organized!
Awesome channel for DIYers and multi-trades maintenance folks. Thanks!
Use multiple tool bags. 1 for plumbing, 1 for electrical, 1 for general maintenance, 1 for patching/painting/minor carpentry repairs
I also use plastic 5 gallon buckets to help out. But yeah it gets crazy!!!
OH! if you can't find pool noodles in your area (Colorado doesn't have alot of pools), pipe insulation works too.
What I do is, clean as he does, dig out all the debris in the gap (as deep as the concrete is) then tape over the edges and fill the gap with waterproof expanding foam. When that dries I use a wire cup bit on a hand drill to remove excess foam to about 1/2" depth. Then finish up with self leveling sealant caulk.
When you say you tape over the edges, do you mean the cracked edge of the concrete? Does the tape stay in place after the entire repair is finished?
cool idea!
@@annfraley7083 ... Before I apply the expanding foam I mask the edges of the concrete, the top surface. I use 2" painters tape so if there is any over expansion of the foam it won't spill out over the top surface of the concrete. Once the foam has dried, it's easy to break off any excess foam before cutting/grinding out the top 1/2" or so of foam.
I think I might like this idea better as I'm not very good with my hands, and I don't think that I would cut the pool noodle as well as he does. I would probably end up making it look worse than it already does lol. But I liked all the other things that he shared in the video
@@digiacomtech5589 Won't a stiff rotary brush on a drill or grinder buff off any excess foam, overall more quickly than taping as you describe?
2 videos in, already see the quality differences. Great Job.
I tried something a bit different. I used Dow expanding spray foam to fill the crack. It dries quickly, then I used the ssl to seal up. Worked great and saved me the time of having to cut and shape backer foam. A word of caution, don't go buck wild with the spray foam, it expands big time.... Whichever way you go, the crack gets fixed....
👍🏻
They make low expanding.
@@therebellion6911 yeah, I had to learn that the hard way.....lol ...
Warning, I tried expanded foam in a concrete (cement) crack and it did not work. The foam gets chipped out and discolored.
It is very difficult to control joint depth with foam. And for the SSL to perform properly the depth needs to be very consistent. And the profile of the sealant will be incorrect. These things matter for the sealant to perform properly.It is a quicker and easier solution but not a quality solution .
OMG! I just used pieces of a pool noodle to help fill in a crack last week. Worked like a charm.
Essentially a large size foam backer rod. My Grandfather used to use the tiny backer rods to fill sidewalk cracks followed up with some sort of concrete compatible caulking. I'm not sure what he used but his repairs would often last more than a decade. I could probably swing by his home that he lived in long ago and built in 1986 and they'd still be there long after my Grandfather has been gone.
Thank you so much for this solution. I have been trying to figure out how to fix a patio crack in my house. God bless you.
Nice video. You could use water pipe wrap. They have 1/2, 3/4 and 1" tubes at your local lumber yard.
I’ve been doing Gutters all my life really got me excited when I heard you say Gutters at the end
Or pipe insulation tubing.
(SAME material). Just in case pool noodles are out of season.
That’s what I was thinking. Plus pipe insulation is gray, so if it peeks through the sealant it won’t stick out like a sore thumb.
I was sooo ready to jump down this video, since I used pool noodles and self-leveling caulk last summer. With totally disastrous results, despite having been quite careful with the prep. Pool noodles began to rise to the surface, caulk discolored (Silka pro).... anyway, I decided to watch your video to the very end to see what I might have done wrong. Count me humbled. Starting with the grill grinding cement edges to everything thereafter, I learned some valuable lessons. Now for the hard part ... wanna come to my house and film a video on how to remove the stuff and start over?? LOL. Keep up the great work.
Hahaha, I will add you to the list of home visit requests 😂. Best of luck 👍
Wait--you did "quite careful" prep the first time, but didn't prep the crumbly edges of the crack? Hope you're learning that prep usually RULES!
Does the San Andreas fault run through the middle of your property?
Hahaha, no doubt. Just picked this place up a couple weeks back and this part of the entry was a bit rough.
my guess is tree roots and / or expansive clay soil
You'd be surprised how many fault lines, both active & ancient, run thru the Midwest. Even Minnesota has a fault line. The Great Lakes Tectonic Zone runs from Big Stone & Traverse County to Duluth and while not very seismically active compared to the San Andreas, it has produced some decent "I felt that"-type quakes.
My house is right in the middle of the Cascade fault line.
@@Asiansxsymbol You must live close to me.
I’m so glad I found this video. My house has several large irregular cracks in the back driveway due to ground fluxuation. Numerous attempts by various individuals has ultimately failed in filling these cracks and I’ve been left with vegetation taking over these areas. I am so glad to find a permanent solution to this ongoing issue. Looks like I’ll be buying lots of pool noodles in my future (something I never thought I’d be purchasing.) Thanks for your highly informative, step by step video.
Best of luck on the project this specific crack is holding strong 2 years later 👍. Make sure you get the Tremco Vulkem 45 SSL. That stuff is good and with proper prep will hold for years.
I used a very similar technique to repair concrete walkway, but instead of sprinkling sand as the last step, I used some dry mortar mix. The finished product will more closely match the concrete walkway.
Great idea.
And as I posted in my own comment, I would use a generous amount and simply sweep off excess the next day.
Great video ! As mentioned, before using pool noodles as backer rods, check if they are open-cell or closed-cell foam. Remember how squeezing some kinds of pool noodles leads to water dripping out? Those are made of open-cell foam. Open cell or Polyurethane foam will soak in water and is not a good choice for filling material in concrete. Closed cell or Polyethylene foam is a much better choice.
You could use an expandable foam vs. the Backer rod so you can avoid going back and forth with cutting the Backer rod to suit the cracks. An even easier method IMO is to use a pre-mix cement screed which you can buy as a dry-mix in a bag. Just add the recommended water and pour into the cracks directly. It does have admixtures that would prevent cracking between the old and new concrete. Trust this helps.
I think I have seen a mason on TH-cam do something similar instead of sand. I think his mixture was 3 parts sand to 1 part portland cement and then he wetted it to the consistency of wet sand. He packed that in the crack. It would stiffen up but remain flexible over time.
No foam or processed chemical adhesives, some crushed recycled construction waste with some cement pored onto them and everything is fixed naturally. Even stones that are around your property, if they weren't naturally formed and they come from construction, or you can buy you any recycled construction waste of the appropriate size , have a bucket for any eventuality and you can always use them as filler or even cast some bricks if you need any.
You could use the expanding foam but pool noodles sell at the dollar store, 3, 4 noodles is going to cost way less
Actually using noodle is better because that caulking form is thinner on middle and wider on side which means thin part flex easier and wide parts sticks well to concrete. IF that caulking is same thickness whole area it can peel of easier.
Trouble with expandable foam is laying a perfect bead down to suit expansion rate. This almost never happens, which means shaving it down - p.i.t.a. The noodle is cheap and bendy: perfect for irregular lines.
Crazy how much better it looks with that small sprinkle of sand you did to color match
Yeah, it does make a big difference 👍
For a smaller crack but still large enough that it would need a lot of sealant, I had good results stuffing in pieces of or whole corks saved from wine bottles that I had on hand, then sealant over. I like the suggestion of putting sand in deeper cracks.
What sealant do you use?
Soooooooooooooo glad I ran across your channel. I'm subscribing. I'm learning so much. Please keep up the great work. Thank you.
Welcome to the channel 🙌
I wish I had this video 15 years ago. I had a few big cracks close to the foundation of my house causing a leak into my basement. I was able to stop the leak, but not as efficiently as this! So ThankYou for this very informative video!
Repent to Jesus Christ
“the Lord delights in those who fear him, who put their hope in his unfailing love.”
Psalms 147:11 NIV
@@repentandbelieveinJesusChrist3 really?
Great idea!! I have multiple cracks on my screened-in back porch concrete floor. Your method should work there too. Thank you so much for sharing.
If slabs are at different levels, drill a 1/4" hole, insert the nozzle of Expanding Foam and watch the sidewalk rise. May take a couple of cans but much cheaper than calling in a slab jacker.
or dig a 6in deep hole and use a "car floor jack"
Id love to see this without a void. Any videos? I dont see this happening with a slab sitting tight on the ground. Could be wrong.
That doesn't work with cans of expanding foam from places like home improvement stores. Have to have two part (expensive) foam.
@fartpoobox ohyeah you really need to learn the difference between how open cell and two part closed cell foams work. Claiming 'i seen it on TH-cam' is certainly amusing though, as if everything on the Internet is real.
With just 1,2 or 13 cans of Great stuff foam it doesn't work on sidewalks or on wheelbarrow tires overtime the foam compresses and can't hold the weight of the slab or load of wheelbarrow stuff.
Save your money and hire a pro to break up small part of slab and re pour. Eventually what I did. I got an amazing deal on a 27 lb jackhammer from Amazon for $110 I own this thing it's a beast and manageable without too much difficulty. One day rental is 75 bucks I've definitely used it more than 10 days already and it comes with that great little plastic case, dorky goggles, useless gloves. I threw out and use my own. straight from China. Doesn't matter it's still a beast "Xtreme power" I think it's called.
Or use the part 2 whatever Brandon might be talking about. I can't verify that.
TH-cam is your friend but it can also be your enemy and lead you down the wrong path. You just have to be able to decipher between the two.
I'm only speaking from experience!
Super helpful! Really love the tip on sprinkling sand on it. I’ve seen so many without the sand and they are way more noticeable. Sand really does a great job of masking the repair.
Very cool, I'm also a crafter so I always have the pool noodles! I also learned from another channel who uses this & foam in his monster props, that you can use a heat gun to make the foam stick/glue itself together if you want to 😉
@Vro - you use a heat gun to make the foam stick to what exactly? Thanks
@@bethanyanderson1745 You can shape it, stretch it, stick it to itself, check out Stiltbeaststudios pool noodle pumpkins. He uses pool noodles, foam pipe insulation all the time & learned the technique from him.
@@Vro- - thank you for replying. I'm not a handyman so perhaps that's why I'm not seeing the connection between filling a cement crack and heating a pool noodle /foam.
I have a crack in my driveway. I am handy but learned some great tips that I’ll use. Thanks for your help
Wish I’d seen this some years earlier. I have concrete steps with a massive crack that goes always through. I filled it up with spray foam, not the best fix but it keeps the wasps out. I’m going to rework the crack using this method. Thanks.
You just got a new Sub, I found your channel for replacing my disposal and looked around and you have several vids of thing I NEED to do lol. Great detail on everything you cover.
Thanks so much and welcome to the channel!
Awesome way to repair! Quick and concise.
EXCELLENT idea, the noodle sure takes up more space to then use LESS sealant
It is still holding strong. The Vulkem sealant is some good stuff.
I love it. The solid concrete will continue to move but with the sand, foam, and the self leveling caulking will move as the environment demands. Where did you buy the self levelling caulking?
The link is in the description section under the video. Tremco Vulkem 45 SSL: amzn.to/3kt0yOX
Wow, it's amazing that you are sharing this. I will be trying this next .
I love this content. Cracks in concrete are a pain and if you don’t know what to do it becomes a pain one way or the other. Thanks bud.
Nice video. Sand at the end definitely helps with mimicking texture of surrounding concrete also
Awesome step by step tutorial. Thank you for the info.
Good work brother this is why youtube exists
Cool! You make things look easy, yet, doable! I love your pace, explanations, and clarity. Even, I, think I might be able to do that! - I like your videos! 😀 -Thank you!
B😂😢 I just got at 😮😮
Hello 👋
Love how you sped through the B.S. and concentrated on the fix
Thanks for sharing you good Idea !
So thankful that I've come across your channel, I'm learning how to care for my home and this video was so helpful! Tfs.
13:20 I've also mixed spare Mortar Powder with the Sand, for repairs like this.
Seem to me that the Powder would harden, and prevent the Sand from washing away.
This was so satisfying to watch lol nice job 👊🏼
Thanks buddy 👍
Thanks so much for your video I've had a gap on my walkway for over 6 years and couldn't afford to have it professionally fixed. It worked out great. It took me about an hour and it's now drying. Thank you. I'm a senior (lady) and I learned a lot.
Never thought about filling cracks this way. Thanks for the video!
THis is wonderful! My family and I got a new home and I almost tripped going up the stairs. I definitely will do this to fix the trip spot. Thank you!!!!
Joints with this obvious amount of movement require primer. On the cartridge it usually says something to the effect of “ no primer required for most substrates” But if you read the material literature it will tell you to prime joints like this. I installed sealant for a living and on a lot of projects we would use thousands of gallons of sealant. When you use these amounts a material rep will show up to make sure it is installed correctly and every time they would say to prime or the material guarantee is void. If you are going to take the time to clean the joint properly ,as the video shows, you might as well brush on the proper primer.
What type of primer is suitable for a concrete surface?
@@billbaillie3702 unfortunately that takes a little research. Every product may require a different primer so it is impossible for me to give you a good answer. But you should be able to find out pretty easily on the manufacturer website. Just be sure to locate the primer for the specific sealant and substrate ( in this case concrete) you choose.This is what I found for Vulkem 45 SSL :Where deemed necessary, use Vulkem® Primer #191 Low-VOC QD on porous substrates You can usually find this information on the material data sheet. Primer is also recommended because even though it is semi self leveling it is still supposed to be dry tooled( something very difficult for a homeowner to do correctly) Most people think that dry tooling the sealant is cosmetic but it is actually to gently force the sealant against the side of the joint to ensure good adhesion.
@@genecarden780 Thanks. I was thinking it would be something Vulkem compatible, I've never seen a primer product available where I usually purchase Vulkem. Are you spraying water or a specific liquid on the fresh Vulkem prior to tooling?
@@billbaillie3702 NO never use anything on the sealant to tool it.That is why it is called dry tooled. Any type of liquid will interfere with the bond. Anytime you see someone wet tooling it is a sure sign they don’t know what they are doing. That is the real advantage of SSL is the tool marks will flow out so you don’t have to be as good at tooling the sealant
Good video. 2 suggestions I have is… 1. pressure wash the sidewalk and repair site first if pressure washer is available…. 2. For the jagged crack I would get a electric saw with a concrete blade and make straight clean edges first.
As a professional remodeler. Loved videos you have done leveling the cement slab and filing driveway joints. Just wonder why don’t use Quic-Krete cement or mortar which is gray and blend better than tan/brown sand when you sprinkle onto the wet urethane caulk. Again I LOVE your videos, very well spoken
That's what I would do
I have used the smaller foam rope for many cracks in concrete
Good idea. Have you tried dry cement at the end instead of sand ? It might help blend better.
Thanks. That was really helpful. The pool noodle is genius. I'm watching from Aotearoa/ New Zealand so won't be able to get the brands you mention but al least now l have got ideas on what to use.
I'll be doing this soon. I was planning to apply a light dusting of cement atop the sealant. I think it would be a better color match than sand. Or is that a bad idea?
I bought an older home and there are a lot of these crakes, this looks like something I can do myself even with my achy old body lol. Thank you so much.
Excellent tutorial! Thank you so much for sharing this.
Great content and you didn’t take 30 min to explain and show us. Danke.
You can also use all those plastic grocery bags lying around. Just stuff them in and pound them down.
Derp derp micro plastic derp
Thank you for a gr8 video share which posted on my birthday. Our home cement problems were caused by idiots from Cox, DirecTV, DISH , Quest Communication workers who have vandalized cement and cement wall footing in the public access easement . At least you help us repair the damage after their happy butts leave after their cable installs.
This is a cool idea but I've found that using spray foam is much easier as it conforms to every bit of the crack in there and there's no need to make cuts unless you use too much
Best and simplest video ever thank you for sharing.
Spray Foam would be the preferable product for those large irregular gaps; cut down, then sealed with the SSL/SL sealant
The spray foam contaminates the substrate and compromises the bond of the SSL. And it doesn’t give the proper joint profile of thinner in the middle and thicker at the sides which is essential for proper sealant performance
@@genecarden780 nope; and yes Spray Foam actually does give proper support and fills the voids, which w/o would allow for further erosion. Spray foam or mud pumped in to fill those large voids is the only right way to do it. And a SSL will not interact with spray foam.
Best DIY video I’ve seen for this type of job - thanks!
Why am I watching this, I don't even own a sidewalk
I find pipe insulation noodles, which comes in various diameters, to be very useful. I haven't tried them as a backer rod for concrete cracks as you're doing, but they're useful for stuffing gaps between jambs and framing to insulate around doors and windows (before trim gets put on). You can cut it to any thickness.
Its funny how that really jagged crack was only an inch away from the relief cut placed in the concrete to prevent exactly that. I guess relief cuts should ideally be much deeper than what we typically do.
Yes they should. Ideally they should be 1/5 the slab thickness but most people would object to the aesthetics
Hahaha i just was working outside today, started with looking at the abandoned years old pool noodle and thought about someday i will find a thing to do with it, it allready breaks itself down at the surfice. after the work i thought about restoring the old old driveway and gotten to this video haha 👍 thanks for the great idea :)