14 FILAMENTS & 200 HOURS! Flashforge Adventurer 4 FIRST LOOK!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ก.ย. 2021
- My first look at the @flashforge3d Adventurer 4 was 200 HOURS LONG. I used 14 different filaments to print @HotRodHippie's 10mm Shallow Can Cup koozie! Have a look at the quality and judge for yourself.
Flashforge Adventurer 4
flashforge-usa.com/products/f...
HotRodHippie / @MandicReally 10mm Shallow Can Cups koozie
thangs.com/m/18772
SUPPORT! 😍
▶ 3d.pn/patreon
▶ www.floatplane.com/channel/3d...
▶ buymeacoff.ee/3dprintingnerd
▶ www.ko-fi.com/joeltelling
GEAR! 🎥🎦📷
Glowforge ▶ 3d.pn/glowforge (aff)
Prusa ▶ 3d.pn/prusa (aff)
Puget Systems ▶ 3d.pn/pugetsystems
Slice Engineering ▶ 3d.pn/slice
MATERIALS 🦇
Printed Solid ▶ 3d.pn/printedsolid
FilamentOne ▶ 3d.pn/filamentone
Amazon ▶ geni.us/shopatamazon (aff)
Matterhackers ▶ 3d.pn/matterhackers (aff)
Proto Pasta ▶ 3d.pn/protopasta (aff)
Nikko Industries 3D Printable Models ▶ bit.ly/3lK0WHi
THE TEAM! 🤟
The Website ▶ the3dprintingnerd.com
Sean Connelly on Patreon ▶ / theseanconnelly
David Tobin on Instagram ▶ / david_tobin
--------------------------------
Find Me Socially!
--------------------------------
Twitch: / joeltelling
Twitter: / joeltelling
Twitter 3DPN: / 3dprintingnerd
Facebook: / 3dprintingnerd
Instagram: / joeltelling
Instagram 3DPN: / 3dprintingnerd
Discord: / discord
--------------------------------
Want to send me something?
--------------------------------
3D Printing Nerd
PO Box 55532
Shoreline, WA 98155
USA
Music in Episodes Comes From:
Epidemic Sound - 3d.pn/epidemicsound
Future Vega - futurevega.sourceaudio.com
Audio Micro - www.audiomicro.com/royalty-fre...
FTC Disclaimer: A percentage of sales is made through Affiliate links - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
So many “Blizzard Tests”. The wrench handle is a heck of a consistency tester for sure. Thanks for featuring so many of my 10mm’s Joel! 😍😂😀
I thought he was saying Lizard Test 🦎 😁
Heh I had to, Alan!
whats a Blizzard test? and how is Blizzard related to it?
@@AndrewAHayes A Blizzard test is a Dairy Queen thing. They sell ice cream treats called Blizzards. They advertise that Blizzards are so thick that you can turn them upside down and they will not spill out of the cup. It has no relation to the game company.
I would have liked to see other types of filament, in particular ABS, maybe Nylon.
Always had good prints from my flashforge 3d printers and I’ve had numerous over the years, they just work without having to mess about. I can see this being great for schools and high end makers.
Hey jole, I just wanted to say thanks being the reason why my mom let me get an ender 3 I’ve been printing for a a year now and I have nothing but good to say about it. Thanks for getting my adventure stated and I hope it never ends
Thank you so much for this review I have been waiting for a while for this printer I have the Adventurer 3 and it is by far one of my favorite printers I always get good results with it. High FIve!!!
I feel like I’m 80% made up my mind that this is the overall (price/features/ease of use right out of the box/variety of filaments) the best printer for beginners. The fact that it has an enclosure although it not completely sealed but nothing that can’t be fixed. I’m Rea digging this printer a lot.
Same here, still looking for someone to demo printing nylon to cross that last 20% in the decision
I have found the same with Printed Solid! but prints come out awesome!
That edit can carrier montage was simply a work of art.
Agreed.
I love the nails❤✌🏻
Very nice extensive test man. Really like the quick swapping nozzles on this Flashforge. And the fillament detection. And the auto bed leveling. And the flexplate. The price is also good for what it offers.
Yet another great video Joel. We recently relaunched our Jessie PLA with a new formula to reduce the clicking you get on some of those hotends at lower temps. So next time you run a blizzard test it would be great to see what you think.
do you sell that Jessie PLA to resellers ?
@@joearchuleta7538 not at this time. Vendors have asked but we are having a hard enough time making enough stock just for us.
FilamentOne PLA, PETG, all of them... they are amazing filaments. I have several that are a couple years old or more, all stored out in the open... they perform beautifully still. i love the stuff.
I fully expect the next Joel livestream for someone (or me) to ask if the printer passes the Blizzard Test and expect the printer to be held upside down and shook while printing.
Love the all inclusive zee or zed. Awesome!
That quick swap nozzle is interesting. Nice it’s easy to swap the nozzle between PLA and PETG prints with this machine. In other machines it’s pain, they just have to use the same nozzle for both materials and get perfect results - such old fashioned!
They said the 240 nozzle can print PETG no problem, but they found they had better results with the 265 nozzle. No, I don't know why. Yes, I'm going to ask them. :)
Super cool, I have the 3. This one looks promising.
Nice one. I love comparison videos
I have an adv3 at the moment and my wanhao i2 sits collecting dust now. The adv3 is just painless, I don't know how they do it, but flashforge have some how nailed affordable, low effort 3d printing. It's a brilliant tool to use and means I can spend more time on my designs and less time worrying about if the printer will work.
I just bought a finder lite and for what I paid I'm damn impressed
Love the VDO and I waiting to receive my Ad4, i have to asked what was the cause of clicking on the fail cup print? You said it seems that it was having difficulty driving the filament. What is the fix other than trying a different brand of filament? thank you
I'd love to see how the printer works remotely, as in:
flashcloud or polarcloud and the camera. Is it still laggy?
I have the FFA-3 and it will print PETG & TPU with no issues, seriously looking at getting the FFA-4 now too 😎.
Just bought 4 rolls of Prusa PLA and was having the identical issues Thanks man That's 4 rolls I don't have to return.
So I switched filament to a cheap brand called Cool Been it would keep messing up at my previous filiments settings of 200. But once I upped it to 215 it worked even better than the other one! And it's just 16 bucks on Amazon.
Thanks!
I know very very little about 3D printing and just like seeing ppl be passionate abt their projects and like learning more abt things I don’t understand and I really enjoyed learning today that filaments often have fun and quirky names!
Thanks for watching! Glad you got to learn a little bit, and I hope when you watch you continue to learn!
Joel, I legit lost it at the blizzard test VoiceOver HAHA
So I have two Ender 3s bought to print PPEs during the outbreak. Looking to upgrade and print PETG, ABS,... Was looking at the Prusa MK3, but ran across the Adventurer 4. I noted a touch of hesitancy in your review. Of the two, which way would you lean?
are the models with tape covering the ejector hole still able to pass the blizzard test?
I'm pretty sure there will be a simplify 3d slicer option on this printer if you want to get rid of that seem line!
By Joel he’s back also I was worried when you turned the can holder upside down I thought it was open
I would be interested in seeing an ABS print that takes up a wide section of build plate and see how bad the warping or bed adhesion is.
I love the idea and you bet that’s in the queue.
@@3DPrintingNerd Well. I bought one anyway. Was I surprised when I opened the box and found I have 2 flex build plates and 4 nozzles. 0.3 240, 0.4 240, 0.4 265 and 0.6 265 nozzles. This thing does work nicely right out of the box.
Looks like it worked well for you!
The hardware on this machine is rock solid, but the software feels sort of unfinished. With some future updates, I’m sure it will be a solid contender!
what is the best way to level the adventurer 4. i keep getting a clicking noise and no luck
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it
200 hours! I guess that earns a thumbs up.
5:13 editer needs a raise
would you please do a tutorial on how to use the new FlashPrint 5 software and how to dial in settings with a FlashForge printer since it's different from other printers?
think you got lucky so many people including myself have had nothing but issues with ours particularly with the bed being not level and the gantry being out of alignment with the bed as well and having to dismantle parts and adjust and put shims in places with the help of flash forge phone support to get it even half printing correctly.
Holy shit that mafia pink is so pretty I want.
I love filament. It's like nailpolish expect more expensive but also 100x cooler
fun video. What do you think about Atomic filament? I've heard they are supposed to be super good.
thank you
Does anyone know how to make the filament come out continually with the nozzle staying in place halfway up without moving up or down or sideways? I just want the filament to come out continually while I hold something in my hand under the nozzle. I have a flashforge adventurer 4 .
I have the adventur 3, pla has never been a problem, with abs i have had alot of problem with the extruder skipping, also had a roll of petg i never could get to print with 240 degree nozzle, i got the 265 degree nozzle, and the petg can print well at 265 degree very slow, 40mm/s is the max until now.
I had a roll of ABS i could not even get to print at 264 and what it printet had very bad layer adhesion!
So extruder seems too weak and looks like they use the same?
The nozzle change is nice, i have a nozzle only for pla - ABS - and high temp have both abs and petg.
What is annoying on it is you cant level bed in print, this has caused lots of trouble, they added a feature where you level 9 points, it made it much much better!!
As a beginner this is two very user friendly printers, but also a bit limited when i look at how people use other printers.
The extruder skipping is something i find very annoying though, sometimes it helps to manipulate spring tension on the filament, and i upgrade to another gear.
What are the 'leopard spots' on the red one (blood of my enemies GREAT NAME), and the pink one?
@@BlakLanner Thank you, I was curious about that too.
I have printed 2 of the 10mm cups on my adventurer 3 it prints great
Great!
Love to hear that!
@@MandicReally I have also printed a left handed monster cup too. Another great print
would love to know how to get to the screen of this printer
What do you think of the Prusa MK3S compare to the Adventure 4? Which one is better?
I'm getting one soon. I hope they cleaned up that ribbon cable though. Looks like a point of failure.
Would love to see a GRAMiphone modified for an iPhone 12 Pro Max with a symmetry case. In glow in the dark filament. I would love to print a lot of glow material, but can this machine take that filament?
Hi Joel great video, i`m new to 3d printing,how do you get the overhang on the handle so nice
I'm sure Joel hasn't done this but you can try using supports.
I have sadly had those same issues with Jessie PLA on my MK3S+ and CR30. I've used a few spools with no issue (Vanilla Bean, Soul Black), but I have a red, green, and yellow that I just can't trust. It's as you described: manifests as a clicking, like a jam or slipping gear, extrusion stops or under extrudes something fierce, and the print fails. No evidence of a clog every time. Swap in a different spool and all is well again. I'll have to give a higher temp a shot. I'm glad you reached out to them and shared!
I love the Jesse vanilla bean ice cream. I use it for printing buildings and terrain. Interesting that you had to bump temp up to use it on this machine. I print it on my Prusa Mini clone at 200-205 and it works great. Must, as you said, be hot end dependent. I’m putting a V6 hotend on soon, so be interesting to see if I need to bump the temp afterwards.
Glad you like it!
I was thinking the same I have several Jessie PLAs and none have had an issue with temp.
Like Joel mentioned in his video. Some hotend designs have heat creep problems and that is why increasing the temp moves the heat creep further up so it doesn’t jam up. Tends to happen with denser resins with a more structured crystal structure. So properly cooled and melt zones on a hotend go a lot way.
now the question becomes if it will print PLA-CF and PETG-CF without damaging the nozzles (or at least without damaging them too much? Not sure if they're hardened steel or not.)
Is using the 0.6 265°c nozzle a good idea for x-CF filaments ?
Looks like Prusa might have some competition now 🤔
i wonder how it prints with hatchbox filament
Hello everyone, I recently purchased an Adventurer4. I also am a newbie to 3D printing. I'm having a problem printing a round tire I downloaded from thingiverse. I need the tire to be 2 in x 2 in to fit ny model. In X i entered 50.8 and Y 50.8, but when I do this thru Flashprint 5, the wheel is oval not round. What am I doing wrong,
I’ve Been 3D printing for a few years now and still feel the need to watch the first layer very intently. How do I stop This?
Nice PLA review and ads, would be nice to see the printer :p
I love to know how the hell you got poly terra to print so well
where is the artillery sidewinder x2 video that I'm waiting for
Lots of work into this review, awesome!
woah
I dont under stand how the filament to nozzle stuff works? Like if the filament is +/- 0.05mm but your nozzle is a 0.04mm will that still work or do I have to find a different filament? Also 1.75 is on the filament at well, where does that number come in?
I have watched many of your videos and for me, this is the best yet. Using a CR-10S...excuse me, working on a CR-10S for years, I am at the point of no more "upgrades." Frustrated to the point that I avoid that room. Now I am off to find more reviews and find the allusive printers that work and not constantly be worked on. With price in mind, do they exist?
Can you try some other fillements? ABS, nylon, ASA from poly works?
Flashforge Adventurer 4 vs Bambu P1S? Which is currently more useful?
7:00 the gold filament really shows how terrible the ringing is on that machine though.
Don’t believe that’s ringing, it’s an artifact of the facets on the STL
@@KevinMardirossian Yeah. Would be interesting to see the same gcode run through Octoprint+Arc Welder to see if it would eliminate those facets and give a better look.
@@KevinMardirossian Nah, that is ringing and not the model geometry. You can see it fade to the left of the seam, also there on the lower part of the model.
Definite ringing issue
Hello I am looking for my first printer, could you tell me if this printer is capable of printing TPU filament?
Can you make a video of the qidi x plus vs the flash forge adventure4 ?
I recently worked with spidermaker's matte gray and matte black. In the process of the print I had the same issue with layer shifting. Not every time either though, it's super weird and I don't understand how it happens.
Glad to know I'm not the only one.
Gonna have to try out higher temps on the prusament, Been having the same odd issues on my end too.
Let me know how it works out for you
@@3DPrintingNerd I also have had issues with Jessie. My biggest thing is it seems to be very idler tension specific.
I’m still debating, an 800 dollar 3D printer or a 200+ dollar one. What’s the benefit?
I want one cup🔥💕👌👍
Anybody looking to buy an adventurer 3/4, I'd reccomend you read this comment lol.
The Adventurer series is an amazing entry-level product, I reccomend it to any beginner into printing or anybody who wants a straight forward printer.
But, they need some more information on things you MUST do before using or even printing a test print mainly because the adventurer series is a series begginers that have never owned a printer before will look to buy...
One thing that they need to tell people is that you MUST level the bed with the extruder before you even test print, when I first got my printer, I had no idea why levelling was important, and they made the claim the adventurer 3 was a printer you didn't have to level! Well no, you've got to, when I started printing, only about the top 70% of the print would get printed, before that it would just scrape the crap out of the bed while attempting to print the bottom part of the print, in the end I needed to buy a new build plate since my build plate looked like somebody got a knife and just started scraping the bed!
That clicking sound Joel talks about isn't something you wanna hear, your extruder isn't keeping up with the bodum fillament assembly which is pushing fillament through quicker than the extruder can melt it and print it, solve this by using a higher temp, I always used 225 - 240; the claim of 210c on the nozzle never worked for me (atleast not when printing outside of ultra mode however this is just me).
@3D Why would you bother switching back and forth between the two nozzles? Why not just leave the 265c one all the time?
That I don’t know. Seems like just the 265 nozzle is the way to go, but they offer the ability to switch.
My guess would be the lower temp one is "Teflon Lined" and the Higher Temp is "All Metal". All Metal hot-ends can lead to heat creep issues on lower temp materials like PLA. So they can be but aren't always a good "One Size Fits All" choice. That is just me using deductive reasoning as I don't have access to the machine to see for sure.
Now I want ice cream.
I'm looking at this printer as my next FDM printer for my current projects. I'm working on something that requires a bigger machine
If you want big, go Artillery Sidewinder. Cheaper and bigger
@@enhidri160 I need something enclosed
@@KRGraphicsCG oh.
I have the adventurer 3, and have been having the same clicking issue with some 3rd party filaments. Would it be safe to say that jumping the temperature up on my nozzle with the 3 could yield the same results as with this one?
I would definitely give it a try, it won’t hurt anything and provide you with some more info
If you switch between abs and pla using the same nozzle on the adv3 you need to make sure it's properly clear of abs before lowering temp for pla printing. I run two nozzles, 1 for abs and petg, 1 for pla to save the hassle but purging the nozzle with pla at abs temps should clear it out and prevent any clicking.
Also if you have the cleaning pin they give you, that's another way flashforge have a video on youtube on how to use it.
You should print a large "fabric" if it handles it well it will throw how good it is with small spaces
I find when the clicking in higher up in the print is due to the speed settings is to fast for some filaments normally infill speed or wall speed especially if your using the same g code for each filament or different machines :) people using confuse this with a clog :) or just like you said the temp will help with the speed aswell 😂😂😂
Hi Joel, did you run into any filament strining issues?
have you seen the high-speed upgrade for this if so what's your thoughts?
Ooh I haven’t!
So what I got out of this video is that I should go to Dairy Queen and get a Blizzard. Was that the right take?
100%
I have many disapointments with this printer and not sure is it bug or may be 'undocumented feature'. First, heating of extruder and plate are going very slow. Before it starts printing it first heating up plate very slowly - approx one degree per 6 seconds. Then it starts heating the nozzle, it looks like it can't heat both devices simultaneously. The same can be observed when I am trying to heat it up via Preheat menu. If to heat it up separate it's going faster. Especially extruder, but when together it goes pretty slow, and one by one. Second, it quite offten hapens when I am loading the file through WiFi it can't open it. It happens once per 3 files. The distance to the printer does not matter. I have to upload some unlucky file several times. Third, the sensor screen is crazy, it is very hard to make exactly one touch when calibrating the extruder. Quite often it happens two or three touches, it makes a calibration a nightmare. Fourth, sometimes it jumps in the middle of calibration process to the main menu by itself and you need to start calibrations from begining. Fifth, sometimes I can see that blue led is blinking inside the printer somewhere in the area of it's main board. Is it Ok? I am not sure is my machine Ok. From other hand it can print and actually doing this Ok, in general. But looks like capricios machine. Do other people have the same problem with it?
Monoprice PLA? Ive had consistent results every time.
$800 seems crazy.
For the Blood of My Enemies filament, how much blood does that require and how does the process for submitting the blood to be used in the filament work?
😂🤣
very entertaining test ...
i got me the Adventurer 4, found some nasty things almost out of the box .. like the really terrible camera, or the building light is nice but pretty much pointless when used remote(camera), and it has no protection on manual movements (like set it to 50mm steps with the head less than that away from the bed, press down it will run right into the bed with no way of stopping it) ... but yes it print's nice, it is very quiet, and the support is helpful as well (in the capacity they do have (less technical more about using)) .. so after all a good choice.
Could you explain further what's so bad about the camera? I've been trying to find a review that covers this but there arn't any...
The camera is low resolution, and the quality of the timelapses captures aren’t good.
@@joeyvanrenesse884 the buildin light overexposes the camera, and with thee light off you can;t see anything.
its horribly widen out (lens) so the picture is always out of focus. it's good enough to see if the printer is messing it up .. so its fine (i guess) just disappointed, i did order me other lenses to replace it making the view angle smaller but regain some of the focus. i have a live-image of what the camera seeing on my website ;)
Did you get the wifi to work?
The Adventurer 3's wifi is the best part about it, and I was disapointed that they kinda messed that up in the one that they sent me.
Yep, WiFi worked!
@@3DPrintingNerd oh awesome. Love me that wifi. It was a bit hard to find in the new FlashFlorge, but it's there.
Kind of wild the temperature range for pla.
Super wild.
Is there another printer in this price range that you would recommend over this?
The fashforge is Plug N Play and enclosed which is better for ASA, ABS, etc, the Prusa is a kit and if you have skills kits are fine but if you don't, your taking a gamble!!!, plus no enclosure on the Prusa which can be a problem for ASA or ABS printing.
@@BlakLanner which one would you choose?
I'm kind of deciding between these 2.
@@BlakLanner Thank you. Now I'm also debating the Rat Rig V-Core 3...
My FA4 was so well packaged that I thought it was from Japan.
As a followup, take 14 Feen-A-Mints
I loved this video so many cool tests with a pretty cool printer. But i think the real hero here is joel for going through all this trouble to test 14 filaments for us.
It would be nice if it had a 300mm X 300mm X 300mm size for the price. And figure out how to get rid of the seam.
The "seam" is what happens when the slicer puts all the starting points of the layers in the same spot. Usually you can alter the location of the layer start points in the slicer (ie, make a seam somewhere on the model, usually a sharp corner or behind an outside feature)
I believe this model has a simpliy 3d slicer option to get rid of that seam aLSO!
Would like to see ABS prints
The extruder is underpowered and will skip (bumping, the Hotend temp helps a lot) meaning sometimes the speed needs to be lowered while printing some filiment. They use the same extruder on the FFA3 and I've printed well over 5000 hours of ABS on it. If they would supply it with a geared dual extruder the FFA4 would be one of the best for a complete solution under 1000K. Little slow sure.
I can only assume that with the extra pressure from a geared extruder, the nozzle quick release system will fail and the nozzle will pop off. I have experiment on my ADV3 with more filament pressure and that's what happened.
The v3 had similar issues with clicking and some filaments. Drove me nuts so really happy to see they fixed this and hiked up the price!
Great first look, Joel! Really enjoyed looking at how other filaments work with the machine. I do love Flashforge printers, in particular, I do like using the Flashforge slicer (it just works in my experience). With that said, it's a bit of a strange of Flashforge to set the price point for the Adventurer 4 so high, especially considering the current price of the Adventurer 3, where we can get it here in the UK for £349.
yes, it's double the price, but is it double the printer.
Flash print 5 is very easy but doesn't offer you many slicing options to help your prints look better. It's just enough to get it to the machine. Simple tho. But once you learned it doesn't help very much I use cura to fix flash forge and they sent it to me and instructed me how to do it. But my adventure 4 never worked. Not sure what to do now that I wasted 3 rolls of filament just trying to fix the stupid thing getting no where or much help for that
Wish I bought the 3 now!
Every review about this A4 is different. I see reviews with lots of issues and reviews with no critics at all. It looks like this is still not a Wauw printer!