1996 F350 7.3 RWD Crewcab LWB and been running Hotshots products every tank full since I bought it in 2014. 370K miles and still on the original injectors and still running strong. Most reliable truck I've ever owned. Best mod I ever did was e-fuel and 40 micron pre and 2 micron after filters.
Good old Marvel Mystery says right on the jug can not be used in 2007 trucks and newer because of the extra sulfur in the mix and I run it in every tank of fuel and I dump a quart in the oil a drive 100 miles and then drain the oil while hot and it does a fine job of keeping you motor clean and when at cummins to have my valves adjusted the were like that’s the cleanest engine we have ever seen . So if it impressed them it must be working .
I used to run MM in my fuel many years ago but I heard it takes away lubricity from the fuel. Not sure that’s true . Still use it once in a long while in my fuel from time to time just to clean.
Wait wait wait so explain this to me? You throw the additive in your oil 100 miles before your oil change and it cleans the engine? Are you throwing diesel in it too? I’ve heard folks doing that as well? Hot shots makes a “stiction eliminator” oil additive that supposed to do the same thing going to do oil analysis with them to see what they say after adding that product and their fuel additive Relatively new to the diesel game outside of tractors
Of an engine that old you just need a quart of transmission fluid in the tank. It’s cheap, & works in minutes with immediate results if the system is just dirty. My 93 7.3 won’t run right without it longer than a month. Keeps the engine, & fuel system clean. This new fuel is crap.
I work for Ram dealership in PA and we have more problems with v6 Eco Boost engines due to fuel quality than any other state in the country. Warranty repair stats show this.
Here is my long term diesel fuel ownership experience for what it’s worth: Bought a new 2000 f250 with 7.3 psd about 24 years ago. I tried a couple of additives in the first 5 years or so and saw no difference. Truck now has 203,000 miles and I have not had any fuel related issues. Runs good and pulls anything I need to tow. I do fuel filter changes at least every 15k miles minimum. I do live in a moderate climate but have lived and worked in single digit temperatures occasionally. I’ve concluded based on my personal experience that spending $100’s per year on fuel additives isn’t worth it to me. I also have 5 pieces of diesel powered heavy construction equipment with the oldest being 2001 and the newest 2022 most with about 5,000 hours on the meter. I run off road fuel in them from a 550 gallon at home tank. I haven’t had any fuel issues with those machines either except for bad fuel hoses and a couple of water in fuel issues. In the winter I sometimes add a gallon of Lucas stabilizer to the tank when I have it filled. Not sure if it helps or not. The price has gone up to $50 per gallon so I probably won’t use it anymore. I do agree that cleanliness is probably the most important thing when working with diesel fuel. I have dual filters on my bulk tank and change fuel filter on everything often before the recommended intervals I think the bottom line is do what works for you, make your own decision based on experience not advertising
I had the same experience, I've used amsoil All in 1 , since buying my 2021 duramax new, occasionally I run out and miss a few fill ups, there's definitely a difference 1-2 mpg.. what surprised me is the balance rates on my injectors are still exactly what they were when new..
2012 Ram 3500 250k miles on it and I’ve ran 1 liter of 2 stroke oil every other tank of fuel and have never had any issues on the fuel system. Todays fuel is sure hard on my old farm/construction equipment so usually it gets more 2 stroke oil/atf mixed in.
2015 F250 210k. I use a thermostatically controlled fuel heater and use an additive at every fuel up. Original CP4 pump going strong. As soon as the new S&S DCR pump is available getting one.
We're getting a lot of R99 Renewable diesel in San Diego. I've had great luck with it. No difference in fuel economy but a pronounced decrease in smell. A friend runs it in his '87 F-350 6.9 IDI so that the engine doesn't asphixiate him.
I can’t define lubricity in factual terms, but I can show you how it works. I removed some oil from my tractor and added kerosene to create an engine wash, as per the tractor manual. The engine promptly seized. I then changed out the mixture and added diesel instead of kerosene in the mixture. The engine ran fine . I have also seen this process on TH-cam where diesel was used.
I have had multiple 5.7 and 4.3 diesels both pencil and poppet injection, a 6.2, Detroit 3-53, and my mother has a TDI. Always run B100 biodiesel and B20 in the winter with antigel. Many combined miles on these vehicles and no real issues with the injection or fuel systems. And the fuel is cheaper.
I also own a (353) it's in a 1978 Dynahoe-190 backhoe. The heavy beast (19000) pounds of muscle. Have never done anything to her except keep new OIL and fuel filters in her. Change them more than what the manual says on service. What is your ( 353) in. What does it powe 1:14 r 😊😊😊
If you're in California like I think you are from your username then I recommend to fill up at the cheapest station in your area with Renewable Diesel and add something that just adds lubricity. I like tc-w3 rated(ashless) 2 stroke oil, only use mineral based. Many people just use the super tech at Walmart so you can just pick it up in a local store. The 2 stroke oil is very popular on the older trucks because it quiets down the engine noise a bit. It has a very high BTU content as well so you can see a bump in power and mpg. Renewable Diesel is just Hydrotreated vegetable oil. It is like biodiesel but produced the same way as petroleum diesel. Biofuels were actually what Rudolf Diesel designed the first diesel engine to be run on. HVO runs very clean due to a cetane of 65+, very good oxidative stability, but the only thing it lacks is lubricity. It has similar or a bit less lubricity as ultra low sulfur petrodiesel. That is why fuel providers will either put in additives just like with ULSD or biodiesel because it has the highest lubricity out there. From independent HFRR testing even B2 increases lubricity to a level that the best additives can't achieve. Conveniently in California they mandate a certain amount of use of biodiesel, which can up to 5% and if more than it has to be marked B5, or B20 if between 6-20%. So 76 stations will have R95 or R99(99% HVO), same with Shell and Arco, and Chevron has R80-B20. Costco gas stations with diesel can have up to R99. I've tried all the additives except for Amsoil, but they all do the same things things which they describe, so just buy ones that only do what you need. It's nice that they disperse water so it can be picked up by the water separator. I just prefer to buy what you can get in a store, unless otherwise worthwhile to reason buying online.
@@PasoGirl7 okay I thought you were in Paso Robles. It's pretty much only in California, Oregon less, and one each in eastern Idaho and Eastern Wyoming.
It almost made me consider putting a natural gas conversion or propane conversion on my truck but now i feel better using the all in one & putting a new fuel filter every 3 months im fairly new to diesels but ive always been a gearhead & have used amsoil for years thanks great podcast very informative greatly appreciated
2000 Ford excursion 7.3 , 792,000 miles , all original fuel system, no commercial additives, 1 quart of atf a month and some anti gel in the winter months as needed
I have a miled out 2008 duramax with 300k miles on it. I do nothing besides rotella 5w40 every 10k miles. Important was the EGR and DPF delete, oil is clean for thousands of miles. Runs like a top. No additives, no messing around. If the truck moves, it is towing. Original injectors. I replace the fuel filter whenever I remember, which is never. Oh, and I live where it gets down to -40. Truck starts great even at that temp
And I do run Archoil AR6500 and you only use 1 Oz per 10 gallons it’s kinda pricey but it does a lot not just one thing boost octain and lube for injections and pump and more don’t have the bottle to read all the stuff .
There's also Enertech Fuel Labs/Advanced Fuel Products diesel additives. Probably the most competitively priced additives that work, as well as Opti-lube. It's also really tough to beat non synthetic tc-w3(ashless) rated 2 stroke oil.
So the guest sells additives, and he RECOMMENDS the additives? Hard to believe. I've tried them all and can't tell any difference whatsoever. My first injectors made it almost a million miles with mostly straight pump diesel. I need to see independent tests to believe it
If the US has a minimum standard of diesel fuel. The the makers of the fuel systems (Bosch,Stansdyne,ect) should design the systems to go the distance with the lesser quality fuel. I’ve taken apart many Siemens 6.4L Navistar HPFP. The actual pumping mechanism plunger/barrel are DLC coated as are the foot of the lifters and the Cam Eccentric that the lifters ride on. Hardly any wear in this area to the naked eye. The transfer pump on the back of the pump is usually wrecked. Sends metal through out the pump. And you guessed it. No coatings of any kind. That was Fords first attempt for common rail in the light duty market. Fast forward to the 6.7L CP4 pumps no DLC anywhere in the pump. Except for the plunger and barrel. I feel if the manufacturer (Bosch) would have treated the other areas of the pumps(Lifters,cam, cyl walls) we wouldn’t see near the failures that we see now.
I am a first time diesel owner. Duramax 3.0L in my 2023 GMC Sierra 1500SLT. The content is great and the knowledge of you guests is an eye opener. My question. Which product is better Hot Shots EDT or Amsoil all in one diesel additives? I like both companies and both representatives but which has the bettter science behind their product?
Hotshots secret EDT every tank and their Diesel extreme every 6k. They have 3rd party test verification using ASTM standards.. I can't find any published amsoil 3rd party verification tests. Project farm did an anti gel test but didn't include amsoil th-cam.com/video/n8gDN_6esfs/w-d-xo.html. I think there are several good ones out there it's just that Hotshots EDT is well proven and widely used with a great track record.
Ive been using 2 stroke oil in my power stroke 7.3 and cummins eng for 25 years with excellent results. Never had it gel up either. 1 oz to the gal. Super Tech. Just dont run it with anything with DEF. Cetane changes when the fuel fires causing false feeling of improvement. Meanwhile fuel mileage goes to crap. Two Stroke is designed to burn. Do not run trans fluid, it has metal in it these days.
Hey man I have a suggestion for a podcast. Now I don’t know if you have already covered it but have an episode that is on lift pumps and maybe have an comparison between air dog and fass lift pumps.
Stanadyne with lubricity- 5 gallons treats 5000 gallons of diesel..Just have anecdotal info from the owners with experience! Wish there was more long range studies on additives with lubricants.
I have a 91.5 dodge I bought it in 1998 it had about 125,000 miles on it and about the 150 mark I needed to change the water pump. OK no problem. I bought a good one from Cummins so fast forward to when I move back to Pennsylvania. I think it was in 2001 maybe 2002. Had to change a pump again oh OK figured well maybe the other one just wasn’t very good so fast forward to like 2004 add to change another one I said Weymouth somethings wrong so I called the tech guy and he said try using our antifreeze well I’ll tell you watch after I switched over to amsoil antifreeze I probably got over 300,000 miles on that pump and it still feels real good and I use the engine oil transmission fluid all that stuff I even put the transmission fluid in my power steering pump and anyways gear lube‘s and all that so I can go outside in the dead of winter. It could be 10° out. I hit the heat grid lights goes out then I hit it again crank that thing over in about three revolutions. It’s running Scott over 520,000 miles on it, I got the head off at right now because head gasket in the cylinder walls. Still see the cross hatching you can’t even hardly feel a ridge on the cylinders Anyway, I use the amsoil full flow filter and bypass filter. OK you guys have a good day and thank you Amsoil for selling us. Good products I go by six in a row.Jim from Kennerdell, Pennsylvania
motorcraft has a different oil for their 3.0l powerstroke than the 6.7l powerstrokes oil. how would that translate into replacing motorcraft with amsoil?
The thing about interviewing guys that sell additives is you can’t entirely believe them as the potential for them just pushing their product dilutes anything they present as fact. You need to talk to people who have no skin in the game and just have the facts like independent lad guys and mechanics. This guy just sounds like an Amsol pusher.
I’m wondering the same thing. I’ve been using the Hotshots Everyday treatment because it seems to be easier to get. But may go with Ams oil if were sitting right next to it on the shelf.
We sold ulsd for as long as I can remember. The changeover affected offroad fuel in 2010. Prior to that if it was clear it was still ulsd. We have been running "todays" fuel longer than most think. So what time periods are we talking about? I work for a family run distributor. They have been doing it since the 60s. Any questions I dont know, I can ask. I know years ago we started calling it ulsd even though number one was already ulsd. What this guy is saying makes no sense. I think he is guessing about how distribution actually works. The filtering of the fuel is is done twice by us before it even reaches the customer.
air/oxygen - dissolved and entrained in diesel fuel because if ULSD is the reason for poor diesel fuel lubricity. Sulphur is an antioxidant. when it is removed the fuel gets more thirsty for Oxygen/air
Actually Sulfur is a Corrosive oxidant. Removing it from fuel also removes other compounds that are what effect lubrication. Sulfur itself isn't a lubricant.
@@100pyatt You are correct. However the primary causal mechanism in diesel fuel today is solubilized oxygen, dissolved and entrapped air in the fuel itself
Thank you for talking about this. I have a question about older Detroit Diesel Engines. Myself i own a Detroit (353) & 8V-71) 1970s vintage. My question is with ULS fuels, am i HURTING my Detroits with this fuel, is the engine getting the Lube it needs from ULS fuels. Both engines run fine, have had the (353) sense 2003. Just asking 😊
Well if you live in a climate where its cold, the diesel distributor better be treating it or else they would have serious problems themselves. I work for one, thats why I say that. All 30 of our trucks use our fuel. Imagine if it wasnt good to go?
Therefore we treat our fuel and you dont need to. Thats just us I guess. I cant Imagine other distributors not treating fuel or buying winter blend from the rack when during cold season
@riverguy988 thats because up there ypu can only buy winter blend. Your not adding it just like none of our customers are not adding it and have no problems. Thats how it should be. Beleive me if the fuel wasnt treated it would freeze.
So like an air dog is probably a fix for that? I see alot of Dmax ( I owned a LML) guys run a lift pump right away....mainly due to no stock lift pump and the cp4 scare.....but I dont see them as highly touted on the Super Duty sites I am on (own a 6.7 PSD now).
Well some of us pay $6 a gal for diesel. So when you have a 36gal tank and a tank in the bed and it costs hundreds to fill up, buying an extra $20 In additives really gets expensive.
has anyone ever defined for you the meaning of "Diesel Fuel Lubricity"? Beyond just the words? I have looked high and low and from here to there for even a technical definition by anybody and I have found nothing. Sulfur has no lubricating properties whatsoever.
@@mikz86ta1 sulphur is an antioxidant. Petroleum diesel had a problem with Oxygen before they removed the Sulphur it got even worse after they removed the Sulphur
@@bearkawiboy6246 my question is what is the causal mechanism of poor fuel lubricity? Not the refining process, we all know about that. Sulphur is an antioxidant. When you remove the sulphur the fuel gets very thirsty for Oxygen. It is a documented fact that refined petroleum diesel fuel absorbs and desorbs air/oxygen
@@xhawkeye8717 Has anybody ever defined for you the meaning of diesel fuel lubricity beyond just the words? Meaning has anybody ever told you what the causal mechanism is for poor diesel fuel lubricity? Please do not guess? Please use provable science and physics? Otherwise your just another democrat or your brain damaged
Since 2007 when USEPA mandated ULSD the below question has never been answered The ASTM HFRR test is an abortion. A complete joke. Where does the HFRR test duplicate pressure like a modern-day diesel fuel system? Bosch CP4 pump failures prove the current ASTM lubricity test is a complete abomination I would like to ask you a question, in all your years of experience, has anyone ever defined for you the meaning of "Diesel Fuel Lubricity"? Beyond just the words? I have looked high and low and from here to there for even a technical definition by anybody and I have found nothing. Sulfur has no lubricating properties whatsoever. Or put another way. Outside of the ultra-low sulfur diesel fuel excuse. Do you know what causes diesel fuel to have poor lubricity? What is causal mechanism in the fuel that is causing the diesel fuel the poor lubricity problem? Thank you for your time Kindest Regards Mike Colburn Las Vegas, NV USA
What about 100% renewable diesel. I’d love to hear a podcast on what it is, is it better than todays B2. Cetane levels? Do you still need fuel additives. Is it better for todays trucks?
@@Jim.Christy IF you're getting renewable diesel, I would say you don't need it with 100% renewable. I am talking renewable. Not biodiesel. Renewable diesel is the best.
f.y.i. low sulfer diesl is ...not ...the same color as number 2 diesel real diesel looks a lighter shade of yellow...number 2 diesel has a different smell .,,,,, i got some of this clear diesel for my 1990 pete with a cummins L 10 in it that eng acted like it was under powered....the pump at the gas station had a sign on pump that said ...renewable diesel...that is clear diesel low sulfer fuel....take a look at the color of the fuel if you like to know what you are buying...
1996 F350 7.3 RWD Crewcab LWB and been running Hotshots products every tank full since I bought it in 2014. 370K miles and still on the original injectors and still running strong. Most reliable truck I've ever owned. Best mod I ever did was e-fuel and 40 micron pre and 2 micron after filters.
Awesome information! Been running AMSOIL additives in my 04 LLY since 34k miles. Just turned over 255k last month.
Good old Marvel Mystery says right on the jug can not be used in 2007 trucks and newer because of the extra sulfur in the mix and I run it in every tank of fuel and I dump a quart in the oil a drive 100 miles and then drain the oil while hot and it does a fine job of keeping you motor clean and when at cummins to have my valves adjusted the were like that’s the cleanest engine we have ever seen . So if it impressed them it must be working .
I used to run MM in my fuel many years ago but I heard it takes away lubricity from the fuel. Not sure that’s true . Still use it once in a long while in my fuel from time to time just to clean.
Kerosene
Wait wait wait so explain this to me? You throw the additive in your oil 100 miles before your oil change and it cleans the engine? Are you throwing diesel in it too? I’ve heard folks doing that as well?
Hot shots makes a “stiction eliminator” oil additive that supposed to do the same thing going to do oil analysis with them to see what they say after adding that product and their fuel additive
Relatively new to the diesel game outside of tractors
1997 Dodge 2500 5.9L 4X4 LB with 180K miles. I have been adding diesel fuel additives in every tank for decades now.
Of an engine that old you just need a quart of transmission fluid in the tank. It’s cheap, & works in minutes with immediate results if the system is just dirty. My 93 7.3 won’t run right without it longer than a month. Keeps the engine, & fuel system clean. This new fuel is crap.
On a 2016 powerstroke I add hotshot secret every tank
@@jimstokleybingo my friend
I work for Ram dealership in PA and we have more problems with v6 Eco Boost engines due to fuel quality than any other state in the country. Warranty repair stats show this.
PA is terrible fuel it's full of asphaltine and black slime
2018 f350 200k never added fuel treatment, 10kmi oil changes, fuel filters every other
Here is my long term diesel fuel ownership experience for what it’s worth:
Bought a new 2000 f250 with 7.3 psd about 24 years ago. I tried a couple of additives in the first 5 years or so and saw no difference.
Truck now has 203,000 miles and I have not had any fuel related issues. Runs good and pulls anything I need to tow.
I do fuel filter changes at least every 15k miles minimum.
I do live in a moderate climate but have lived and worked in single digit temperatures occasionally.
I’ve concluded based on my personal experience that spending $100’s per year on fuel additives isn’t worth it to me.
I also have 5 pieces of diesel powered heavy construction equipment with the oldest being 2001 and the newest 2022 most with about 5,000 hours on the meter. I run off road fuel in them from a 550 gallon at home tank. I haven’t had any fuel issues with those machines either except for bad fuel hoses and a couple of water in fuel issues.
In the winter I sometimes add a gallon of Lucas stabilizer to the tank when I have it filled. Not sure if it helps or not. The price has gone up to $50 per gallon so I probably won’t use it anymore.
I do agree that cleanliness is probably the most important thing when working with diesel fuel.
I have dual filters on my bulk tank and change fuel filter on everything often before the recommended intervals
I think the bottom line is do what works for you, make your own decision based on experience not advertising
Do you live in the north, because it's still $32 down in the South Eastern Louisiana Walmarts
@@sandasturner9529 no, I live in Central California, where everything’s expensive lol
Amsoil fuel additives are the only additives that I have noticed better fuel mileage on my 6.7. Have tried quite a few different additives.
6.7 powerstroke or 6.7 cummins? Gotta be more specific.
@@clover7359 let you think about that one for a while before I answer that.
FPPF Cetane 8+ is Pure 2EHN chemical. Great for low dose Cetane improvement
I had the same experience, I've used amsoil All in 1 , since buying my 2021 duramax new, occasionally I run out and miss a few fill ups, there's definitely a difference 1-2 mpg.. what surprised me is the balance rates on my injectors are still exactly what they were when new..
2012 Ram 3500 250k miles on it and I’ve ran 1 liter of 2 stroke oil every other tank of fuel and have never had any issues on the fuel system. Todays fuel is sure hard on my old farm/construction equipment so usually it gets more 2 stroke oil/atf mixed in.
Been running 2 stroke for over 25 years.
I pour in used filtered atf in every tank, I have done as much as 50/50 mix but on average about 10 percent used oil to diesel.
I’d love to run my IDI on filtered atf 100% because it’s better than Diesel itself. But 50/50 is perfect. New Diesel fuel is trash.
2015 F250 210k. I use a thermostatically controlled fuel heater and use an additive at every fuel up. Original CP4 pump going strong. As soon as the new S&S DCR pump is available getting one.
We're getting a lot of R99 Renewable diesel in San Diego. I've had great luck with it. No difference in fuel economy but a pronounced decrease in smell. A friend runs it in his '87 F-350 6.9 IDI so that the engine doesn't asphixiate him.
On your IDI put a quart of atf in every fuel tank. My IDI till run like trash without it.
Does the exhaust smell like freshly cooked French fries?
I can’t define lubricity in factual terms, but I can show you how it works. I removed some oil from my tractor and added kerosene to create an engine wash, as per the tractor manual. The engine promptly seized. I then changed out the mixture and added diesel instead of kerosene in the mixture. The engine ran fine . I have also seen this process on TH-cam where diesel was used.
I have had multiple 5.7 and 4.3 diesels both pencil and poppet injection, a 6.2, Detroit 3-53, and my mother has a TDI. Always run B100 biodiesel and B20 in the winter with antigel. Many combined miles on these vehicles and no real issues with the injection or fuel systems. And the fuel is cheaper.
I also own a (353) it's in a 1978 Dynahoe-190 backhoe. The heavy beast (19000) pounds of muscle. Have never done anything to her except keep new OIL and fuel filters in her. Change them more than what the manual says on service. What is your ( 353) in. What does it powe 1:14 r 😊😊😊
I only run non bio diesel in my trucks. Big difference on lubricity and gel point. I also use Amsoil additive.
How do you find non bio diesel?
This is why I have a 12v, it will run anything. Kerosene, diesel #1 and #2, motor oil, ATF, black diesel, and bio diesel.
So many people I know think additives are snake oil and they have also lost fuel pumps
I have a 2010 ram 2500 with 334,887 miles original injection pump and injectors. I have always since my truck was brand new put fuel additives in.
Hmmm…learned a lot with this video. Thank you. I better up my use of a fuel additive EVERY tank. Rebuilt 7.3 with 35K miles currently.
I love the AMSOIL all in one myself! Let me know if you want to try some.
Is that only available through a distributor?
If you're in California like I think you are from your username then I recommend to fill up at the cheapest station in your area with Renewable Diesel and add something that just adds lubricity. I like tc-w3 rated(ashless) 2 stroke oil, only use mineral based. Many people just use the super tech at Walmart so you can just pick it up in a local store. The 2 stroke oil is very popular on the older trucks because it quiets down the engine noise a bit. It has a very high BTU content as well so you can see a bump in power and mpg.
Renewable Diesel is just Hydrotreated vegetable oil. It is like biodiesel but produced the same way as petroleum diesel. Biofuels were actually what Rudolf Diesel designed the first diesel engine to be run on. HVO runs very clean due to a cetane of 65+, very good oxidative stability, but the only thing it lacks is lubricity. It has similar or a bit less lubricity as ultra low sulfur petrodiesel. That is why fuel providers will either put in additives just like with ULSD or biodiesel because it has the highest lubricity out there. From independent HFRR testing even B2 increases lubricity to a level that the best additives can't achieve.
Conveniently in California they mandate a certain amount of use of biodiesel, which can up to 5% and if more than it has to be marked B5, or B20 if between 6-20%. So 76 stations will have R95 or R99(99% HVO), same with Shell and Arco, and Chevron has R80-B20. Costco gas stations with diesel can have up to R99.
I've tried all the additives except for Amsoil, but they all do the same things things which they describe, so just buy ones that only do what you need. It's nice that they disperse water so it can be picked up by the water separator. I just prefer to buy what you can get in a store, unless otherwise worthwhile to reason buying online.
Not in CA. Can’t say I’ve seen what you described in CO.
@@PasoGirl7 okay I thought you were in Paso Robles. It's pretty much only in California, Oregon less, and one each in eastern Idaho and Eastern Wyoming.
It almost made me consider putting a natural gas conversion or propane conversion on my truck but now i feel better using the all in one & putting a new fuel filter every 3 months im fairly new to diesels but ive always been a gearhead & have used amsoil for years thanks great podcast very informative greatly appreciated
2000 Ford excursion 7.3 , 792,000 miles , all original fuel system, no commercial additives, 1 quart of atf a month and some anti gel in the winter months as needed
13 letter shitspreader INTERNATIONAL best diesel ever made...my 2000 7.tree has over 820 thousand miles...still stroking and purrs like a kitten....
i started dumping 1 qt atf in as well. amazing more people havent caught on to this.
I have a miled out 2008 duramax with 300k miles on it.
I do nothing besides rotella 5w40 every 10k miles. Important was the EGR and DPF delete, oil is clean for thousands of miles.
Runs like a top. No additives, no messing around. If the truck moves, it is towing.
Original injectors. I replace the fuel filter whenever I remember, which is never.
Oh, and I live where it gets down to -40. Truck starts great even at that temp
And I do run Archoil AR6500 and you only use 1 Oz per 10 gallons it’s kinda pricey but it does a lot not just one thing boost octain and lube for injections and pump and more don’t have the bottle to read all the stuff .
There's also Enertech Fuel Labs/Advanced Fuel Products diesel additives. Probably the most competitively priced additives that work, as well as Opti-lube. It's also really tough to beat non synthetic tc-w3(ashless) rated 2 stroke oil.
2EHN is used in all commercially produced diesel to meet Cetane requirements. FPPF Cetane 8+ is pure 2EHN and requires only small dosage for effect
So the guest sells additives, and he RECOMMENDS the additives? Hard to believe.
I've tried them all and can't tell any difference whatsoever. My first injectors made it almost a million miles with mostly straight pump diesel.
I need to see independent tests to believe it
Ive been running K100D every tank since the truck has been new, 2016 F350 6.7 with 106k miles... No fuel related problems yet.
How's that turbo working out for ya,? Genuinely curious 🤔
@@sandasturner9529 Truck now has almost 122k miles and no turbo issues whatsoever...
Its nice having an engine that says not to exceed 5% bio fuel and the state forces us to use 20% where I live.
If the US has a minimum standard of diesel fuel. The the makers of the fuel systems (Bosch,Stansdyne,ect) should design the systems to go the distance with the lesser quality fuel. I’ve taken apart many Siemens 6.4L Navistar HPFP. The actual pumping mechanism plunger/barrel are DLC coated as are the foot of the lifters and the Cam Eccentric that the lifters ride on. Hardly any wear in this area to the naked eye. The transfer pump on the back of the pump is usually wrecked. Sends metal through out the pump. And you guessed it. No coatings of any kind. That was Fords first attempt for common rail in the light duty market. Fast forward to the 6.7L CP4 pumps no DLC anywhere in the pump. Except for the plunger and barrel. I feel if the manufacturer (Bosch) would have treated the other areas of the pumps(Lifters,cam, cyl walls) we wouldn’t see near the failures that we see now.
manufacturers dont care, USA is so small market and the rest of the world has better fuel.
I am a first time diesel owner. Duramax 3.0L in my 2023 GMC Sierra 1500SLT. The content is great and the knowledge of you guests is an eye opener. My question. Which product is better Hot Shots EDT or Amsoil all in one diesel additives? I like both companies and both representatives but which has the bettter science behind their product?
I say Amsoil because the research they do is unmatched from what I have seen.
Hotshots secret EDT every tank and their Diesel extreme every 6k. They have 3rd party test verification using ASTM standards.. I can't find any published amsoil 3rd party verification tests. Project farm did an anti gel test but didn't include amsoil th-cam.com/video/n8gDN_6esfs/w-d-xo.html. I think there are several good ones out there it's just that Hotshots EDT is well proven and widely used with a great track record.
Archoil and Opti-Lube XPD are top rated along with Amsoil. I use Archoil 6500.
My OBS 7.3 ran a lot of ATF in the fuel for lubricant.
ATF fluid in heating oil works in old equipment and Macks, Marvel mystery oil is good for a lot of stuff and Kerosene in the winter used to be go to
I burn filtered used motor oil in my 06 f350 I have good lubricant
Been using Hot shot, Amsoil, and Power service for Diesel fuel for years.
Ive been using 2 stroke oil in my power stroke 7.3 and cummins eng for 25 years with excellent results. Never had it gel up either. 1 oz to the gal. Super Tech. Just dont run it with anything with DEF. Cetane changes when the fuel fires causing false feeling of improvement. Meanwhile fuel mileage goes to crap. Two Stroke is designed to burn. Do not run trans fluid, it has metal in it these days.
Hey man I have a suggestion for a podcast. Now I don’t know if you have already covered it but have an episode that is on lift pumps and maybe have an comparison between air dog and fass lift pumps.
Stanadyne with lubricity- 5 gallons treats 5000 gallons of diesel..Just have anecdotal info from the owners with experience!
Wish there was more long range studies on additives with lubricants.
Are synthetic or Dino additive better or no difference for my 05 Dodge 3500 5.9 ?
I have a 91.5 dodge I bought it in 1998 it had about 125,000 miles on it and about the 150 mark I needed to change the water pump. OK no problem. I bought a good one from Cummins so fast forward to when I move back to Pennsylvania. I think it was in 2001 maybe 2002. Had to change a pump again oh OK figured well maybe the other one just wasn’t very good so fast forward to like 2004 add to change another one I said Weymouth somethings wrong so I called the tech guy and he said try using our antifreeze well I’ll tell you watch after I switched over to amsoil antifreeze I probably got over 300,000 miles on that pump and it still feels real good and I use the engine oil transmission fluid all that stuff I even put the transmission fluid in my power steering pump and anyways gear lube‘s and all that so I can go outside in the dead of winter. It could be 10° out. I hit the heat grid lights goes out then I hit it again crank that thing over in about three revolutions. It’s running Scott over 520,000 miles on it, I got the head off at right now because head gasket in the cylinder walls. Still see the cross hatching you can’t even hardly feel a ridge on the cylinders Anyway, I use the amsoil full flow filter and bypass filter. OK you guys have a good day and thank you Amsoil for selling us. Good products I go by six in a row.Jim from Kennerdell, Pennsylvania
motorcraft has a different oil for their 3.0l powerstroke than the 6.7l powerstrokes oil. how would that translate into replacing motorcraft with amsoil?
The thing about interviewing guys that sell additives is you can’t entirely believe them as the potential for them just pushing their product dilutes anything they present as fact. You need to talk to people who have no skin in the game and just have the facts like independent lad guys and mechanics.
This guy just sounds like an Amsol pusher.
I heard about Archoil from Jay Leno !
Which product is better hotshots or amsoil? Seems like they are very competitive
I’m wondering the same thing. I’ve been using the Hotshots Everyday treatment because it seems to be easier to get. But may go with Ams oil if were sitting right next to it on the shelf.
Stanadyne works great too
I started out with hotshots but switched to Amsoil because of the convenience of ordering all my fluids online with them. Both are good products! 👍🏼
We sold ulsd for as long as I can remember. The changeover affected offroad fuel in 2010. Prior to that if it was clear it was still ulsd. We have been running "todays" fuel longer than most think. So what time periods are we talking about? I work for a family run distributor. They have been doing it since the 60s. Any questions I dont know, I can ask. I know years ago we started calling it ulsd even though number one was already ulsd. What this guy is saying makes no sense. I think he is guessing about how distribution actually works. The filtering of the fuel is is done twice by us before it even reaches the customer.
air/oxygen - dissolved and entrained in diesel fuel because if ULSD is the reason for poor diesel fuel lubricity. Sulphur is an antioxidant. when it is removed the fuel gets more thirsty for Oxygen/air
Actually Sulfur is a Corrosive oxidant. Removing it from fuel also removes other compounds that are what effect lubrication. Sulfur itself isn't a lubricant.
@@100pyatt You are correct. However the primary causal mechanism in diesel fuel today is solubilized oxygen, dissolved and entrapped air in the fuel itself
Thank you for talking about this. I have a question about older Detroit Diesel Engines. Myself i own a Detroit (353) & 8V-71) 1970s vintage. My question is with ULS fuels, am i HURTING my Detroits with this fuel, is the engine getting the Lube it needs from ULS fuels. Both engines run fine, have had the (353) sense 2003. Just asking 😊
could be better
The new trucks are designed so the owner cant run that vehicle if they shut the fuel supply down but any old diesel will run on just anout any oil
Well if you live in a climate where its cold, the diesel distributor better be treating it or else they would have serious problems themselves. I work for one, thats why I say that. All 30 of our trucks use our fuel. Imagine if it wasnt good to go?
Just speaking about gelling
Therefore we treat our fuel and you dont need to. Thats just us I guess. I cant Imagine other distributors not treating fuel or buying winter blend from the rack when during cold season
I live in Montana and we get down the -40 with -20 on a sustained basis. I do not put any anti jell in my fuel and and never had a jell up issue.
@riverguy988 thats because up there ypu can only buy winter blend. Your not adding it just like none of our customers are not adding it and have no problems. Thats how it should be. Beleive me if the fuel wasnt treated it would freeze.
@riverguy988 Im talking about distributors not end customers. I dont know if you caught that
Do cp4 pumps fail in countries with good old fashioned diesel?
That seems like a question that might answer a problem
they fail only in USA
If these additives are so effective, then why don't they come with a guarantee?
2EHN is used in all commercially produced diesel to meet Cetane requirements. FPPF Cetane 8+ is pure 2EHN and requires only small dosage for effect
Spot on information 👍👍
Is he talking about gelling in the first 4 minutes or is solidifying different?
I have a 2017 Ram 2500
Megacab with the 6.7
I have been using Howes
Lube Diesel Treat and
Diesel defender on every fill up
Are you happy with howes?
@@jdksynthetics
Yes I am you need some extra lubricants in todays fuel ⛽️
Love additives. But they are regulated by epa . So how can they add too fuel additives to meet epa standards in additives
Bush number 1 signed the clean air act amendments of 1990. Giving the chemical makers a license to steal, and they have been doing it ever since.
Commenting for support!
fuel cavitation because of dissolved and entrained Oxygen/air wreaks havoc on injectors and fuel pumps.
So like an air dog is probably a fix for that? I see alot of Dmax ( I owned a LML) guys run a lift pump right away....mainly due to no stock lift pump and the cp4 scare.....but I dont see them as highly touted on the Super Duty sites I am on (own a 6.7 PSD now).
Why isn't the cp4 a class action?
it is, google it
Well some of us pay $6 a gal for diesel. So when you have a 36gal tank and a tank in the bed and it costs hundreds to fill up, buying an extra $20 In additives really gets expensive.
We need diesel like in Europe and they have detergent in their fuel for ever !!!
Idling with a little more lube is the way. Chainsaws, dirt bikes, rotaries, and diesel trucks all need help.
has anyone ever defined for you the meaning of "Diesel Fuel Lubricity"? Beyond just the words? I have looked high and low and from here to there for even a technical definition by anybody and I have found nothing. Sulfur has no lubricating properties whatsoever.
Remove sulphur isn't the problem really, it's the process which also as a sort of side effect will strip the diesel of other lubricant properties
@@mikz86ta1 sulphur is an antioxidant. Petroleum diesel had a problem with Oxygen before they removed the Sulphur it got even worse after they removed the Sulphur
They put additives back into the diesel after refining for a reason! That reason is LACK OF LUBRICITY, that the heavy refining process causes!
@@bearkawiboy6246 my question is what is the causal mechanism of poor fuel lubricity? Not the refining process, we all know about that. Sulphur is an antioxidant. When you remove the sulphur the fuel gets very thirsty for Oxygen. It is a documented fact that refined petroleum diesel fuel absorbs and desorbs air/oxygen
Common rail = common fuel rail. Not Electronic fuel injectors. A 6-71 is common rail, just not electronic fuel injectors.
Does this guy sell diese fuel products? Does he own a diesel himself? Just curious
Snake oil
Sorry Patrick this guy is guessing. This is not science and research, it is guesswork
Show your work. Post something that disproves what was discussed in the video.
@@xhawkeye8717 Has anybody ever defined for you the meaning of diesel fuel lubricity beyond just the words? Meaning has anybody ever told you what the causal mechanism is for poor diesel fuel lubricity? Please do not guess? Please use provable science and physics? Otherwise your just another democrat or your brain damaged
Since 2007 when USEPA mandated ULSD the below question has never been answered
The ASTM HFRR test is an abortion. A complete joke. Where does the HFRR test duplicate pressure like a modern-day diesel fuel system? Bosch CP4 pump failures prove the current ASTM lubricity test is a complete abomination
I would like to ask you a question, in all your years of experience, has anyone ever defined for you the meaning of "Diesel Fuel Lubricity"? Beyond just the words? I have looked high and low and from here to there for even a technical definition by anybody and I have found nothing. Sulfur has no lubricating properties whatsoever.
Or put another way. Outside of the ultra-low sulfur diesel fuel excuse. Do you know what causes diesel fuel to have poor lubricity? What is causal mechanism in the fuel that is causing the diesel fuel the poor lubricity problem?
Thank you for your time
Kindest Regards
Mike Colburn
Las Vegas, NV
USA
What about 100% renewable diesel. I’d love to hear a podcast on what it is, is it better than todays B2. Cetane levels? Do you still need fuel additives. Is it better for todays trucks?
Renewable diesel if you can get it is the best fuel on the planet
@@ox-cetane4887 should you still add a fuel additive to each tank?
@@Jim.Christy IF you're getting renewable diesel, I would say you don't need it with 100% renewable. I am talking renewable. Not biodiesel. Renewable diesel is the best.
Same here. In San Diego we see it everywhere. My 2007 Ram Cummins runs great on it.
@@ox-cetane4887 Mine loves the stuff.
9k for injectors? Are they made of gold? Also. If Injectors regurlary only lasted 120k miles there would be a class action law suit.
Last time I checked a set of balanced and blueprinted injectors for my 7.3 we’re less than 2.5 k installed. Stock ones were 700 less
f.y.i. low sulfer diesl is ...not ...the same color as number 2 diesel real diesel looks a lighter shade of yellow...number 2 diesel has a different smell .,,,,, i got some of this clear diesel for my 1990 pete with a cummins L 10 in it that eng acted like it was under powered....the pump at the gas station had a sign on pump that said ...renewable diesel...that is clear diesel low sulfer fuel....take a look at the color of the fuel if you like to know what you are buying...
D2 steel sucks