Sir you would actually be mistaken. It basically is a truck bed lining. I would recommend spraying it on the plates at about 150mils minimum and do both sides and pay attention to the edges as they need to be coated extremely well also. Take one of your plates to a local truck bed liner shop and have them to spray it for you. It does require specific equipment to process and spray the product as it is a fast set thick film plural component coating called Polyurea. Polyurea is the Technology, which does have many specific formulas for specific uses. Or you could send me one of your plates and I’d be happy to spray one for you. Check some of my videos on my page. I have one video on shooting a unprotected plate and then one that has been sprayed.
Hello. I'm from Ukraine))).. And I began to actively watch this channel) .. The idea to paint the plate also visited me .. We have these coatings like "U-POL Raptor". But this needs a thick layer .. And there was an idea during painting to saturate the layers with soda or sand to increase the breaking density of the coating. BUT during the war, we are unlikely to be able to paint normally. THEREFORE, the BRANDON method is now the most relevant ((((.
О, дякую Вам. З нетерпінням чекаємо тесту, чи здатна пластина витримати 762. Дякую, своєю працею Ви допомагаєте і даєте алгоритм можливих дій! Удачі Вам!
Military grade= Cheapest supplier that cut every corner they could to make as much profit as they could ! Why not something simple like plumbers silicone or PU foam? Or simple cotton sheet glued in wood glue . Or a tire rubber.Dont get me wrong but i dont think amazon delivers to ukraine right now .
Hello. if you are from Ukraine, then you can also find the necessary material here. BUT not military .. military has not been sold before))))).. but in general Kevlar and so on can be found in different densities .. You can even look in fabric stores .. There are fabrics very similar .. There are Aramid fibers for building yachts and etc..
Wow didn't expect you to keep posting on this thanks. Btw could you please be so kind as to show how exactly to treat it in the way you did to deflect ap 06. I'd appreciate it.
Brandon your doin great work sir! I can say having a bit of experience with composite work that your logic is sound. Id like to toss another idea in the mix that might be more readily available. HDPE plastic layers in the spall protection layers. The stuff antifreeze bottles and milk jugs are made of.
@@VooDooTennessee Is there a difference between fiber glass resin and epoxy? If so, why the resin or why not the epoxy? Love the series an HD the channel.
@@chrisgriffith9252 yes there is a difference between the two but ballistically you would have to look up the particular one your using and compare statistics and do some live testing to confirm that it meets your needs or use. Sometimes the data sheets and real life don't match up and the material of choice as you can see in the video can make a big impact on your results.
but coating a polyurethane coating on top of Kevlar can be very useful for containing all fragments, not just bullets. BUT it’s not a fact that in our country now we can cover it somewhere with such coverage (((
Why don't you weld a additional rebar (either cut in half and outside edge rounded or full rebar) around the outer edge of the strike face (the side that is going to be shot at), where the spalling can help contain it, but the larger fragments can get wedged between the rebar and plate or straight up stopped.
how about adding a 1/2 to 2/3 of inch panel of fiberglass similar to what they make doors out of to the outside under the kevlar? it should act like a styrofoam target when a BB hits it
I’m considering getting into blacksmithing. Theoretical, say we had some full faced helmet like the ones from Star Wars that completely sealed your head, wouldn’t fragments like that no longer be an issue because then they’re flying up into an armored helmet? Thanks. You’re gonna be seeing me around your comment sections from now on, gonna be asking a lot of questions, appreciate you.
@@VooDooTennessee Ah see weight of metal armor has been an issue that’s been bothering me for some time. What metals are light enough to wear to a modern battlefield or urban warzone that can still deflect larger caliber fire like the 7.62, hell maybe even as high as a .50 call? Does such an alloy exist? Or maybe a decently thin plate of metal armor with composite armor and Kevlar over the top in thick layers to maintain light-weight while not sacrificing durability. What do you think?
Perfectly logical question. The real answer has three elements, in my non official opinion. Firstly, every kg you add on your head is a kg of ammunition, first aid kits, radios, night vision etc that you cannot carry. You cannot carry enough armour to do without these things. Tanks can't do it. Secondly, even if you could carry it your overall awareness would drop, both sight and sound. So you'd have to rig cameras and sound, and that just adds more weight. Thirdly, there is therefore a sweet spot, balancing these factors, and that is pretty much a modern helmet. It protects you from the main threat, which is airburst shells, and the top of your mindbrain when you stick your head up from behind cover. Does that help explain?
You should watch Tod’s workshop tests with arrows versus armor. Knight’s armor, while also having other design choices, put in a steep V shape below the neck to deflect the wooden shards of arrows that hit the chest, and prevent them from going up into a knight’s face or neck, and you can see it work in slow motion in Tod’s videos. I think this would be a far superior method to any sort of coating, though the two together would be the best, obviously.
Just a thought: I wonder how effectively you could recondition a steel plate like this after a hole got dug in it? Maybe Demolition Ranch could send some back, and you see how hard they are to patch, and how effective they are afterwards?
Hello. Cool. I waited .. I would rather have tests))) .. At the beginning of the video I wanted to advise you to wear gloves when working with resins)) but then you did it)))) you have to love working with resins))) rather not a pleasant experience if this type of work do not like)))
that "yellowish" color is called "cream". Taupe is more of a tan/gray color. Nonetheless, another great video. Thank you. The metric system is ridiculous. Better to stick with the best system which is called American Standard( and no it is not the Imperial system which was in Canada and Britain but not the US!) The only problem I foresee is that fiberglass resin does not bond with Kevlar. I have had plenty of experience working with both as at one time I worked at an aircraft manufacturer whose main business was making parts and panels with Kevlar, fiberglass, and carbon materials.
"Probably not the best idea, but it's the only idea I got'.
04/11/2022
Great to see you on!
Sir you would actually be mistaken. It basically is a truck bed lining. I would recommend spraying it on the plates at about 150mils minimum and do both sides and pay attention to the edges as they need to be coated extremely well also. Take one of your plates to a local truck bed liner shop and have them to spray it for you. It does require specific equipment to process and spray the product as it is a fast set thick film plural component coating called Polyurea. Polyurea is the Technology, which does have many specific formulas for specific uses. Or you could send me one of your plates and I’d be happy to spray one for you. Check some of my videos on my page. I have one video on shooting a unprotected plate and then one that has been sprayed.
Hello. I'm from Ukraine))).. And I began to actively watch this channel) .. The idea to paint the plate also visited me .. We have these coatings like "U-POL Raptor". But this needs a thick layer .. And there was an idea during painting to saturate the layers with soda or sand to increase the breaking density of the coating. BUT during the war, we are unlikely to be able to paint normally.
THEREFORE, the BRANDON method is now the most relevant ((((.
I will take you up on that! Shoot me an email VooDooForgeBusiness@gmail.com
Reminder: VooDoo forge took you up on the offer, see below. I thought I'd nudge, because TH-cam is really flaky sending notifications of replies.
Dude love watching your videos always interesting. Awesome job
Glad you like them!
glad to see you are doing better, i need to get over there to get the sword and armor hangers done
О, дякую Вам. З нетерпінням чекаємо тесту, чи здатна пластина витримати 762. Дякую, своєю працею Ви допомагаєте і даєте алгоритм можливих дій! Удачі Вам!
Would love to see how it works. Thanks for the info
Military grade= Cheapest supplier that cut every corner they could to make as much profit as they could !
Why not something simple like plumbers silicone or PU foam? Or simple cotton sheet glued in wood glue . Or a tire rubber.Dont get me wrong but i dont think amazon delivers to ukraine right now .
Hello. if you are from Ukraine, then you can also find the necessary material here. BUT not military .. military has not been sold before))))).. but in general Kevlar and so on can be found in different densities .. You can even look in fabric stores .. There are fabrics very similar .. There are Aramid fibers for building yachts and etc..
Wow didn't expect you to keep posting on this thanks. Btw could you please be so kind as to show how exactly to treat it in the way you did to deflect ap 06. I'd appreciate it.
Brandon your doin great work sir! I can say having a bit of experience with composite work that your logic is sound. Id like to toss another idea in the mix that might be more readily available. HDPE plastic layers in the spall protection layers. The stuff antifreeze bottles and milk jugs are made of.
I may give that a shot! Pun intended.
@@VooDooTennessee
Is there a difference between fiber glass resin and epoxy? If so, why the resin or why not the epoxy?
Love the series an HD the channel.
Ar500 actually makes an HDPE plate. So this seems feasible.
@@chrisgriffith9252 yes there is a difference between the two but ballistically you would have to look up the particular one your using and compare statistics and do some live testing to confirm that it meets your needs or use. Sometimes the data sheets and real life don't match up and the material of choice as you can see in the video can make a big impact on your results.
topcoat with several layers of polyurethane truck bed liner
but coating a polyurethane coating on top of Kevlar can be very useful for containing all fragments, not just bullets. BUT it’s not a fact that in our country now we can cover it somewhere with such coverage (((
I may give it a shot, pun intended.
Why don't you weld a additional rebar (either cut in half and outside edge rounded or full rebar) around the outer edge of the strike face (the side that is going to be shot at), where the spalling can help contain it, but the larger fragments can get wedged between the rebar and plate or straight up stopped.
I heard the rubber Mats for horse trailers work well, will testing it out to see.
What about a mild steel small guage steel sheet over the top? Maybe like a quarter inch of space between so the fragments cant just bounce back out
how about adding a 1/2 to 2/3 of inch panel of fiberglass similar to what they make doors out of to the outside under the kevlar? it should act like a styrofoam target when a BB hits it
I’m considering getting into blacksmithing. Theoretical, say we had some full faced helmet like the ones from Star Wars that completely sealed your head, wouldn’t fragments like that no longer be an issue because then they’re flying up into an armored helmet? Thanks. You’re gonna be seeing me around your comment sections from now on, gonna be asking a lot of questions, appreciate you.
maybe but it would be really heavy
@@VooDooTennessee Ah see weight of metal armor has been an issue that’s been bothering me for some time. What metals are light enough to wear to a modern battlefield or urban warzone that can still deflect larger caliber fire like the 7.62, hell maybe even as high as a .50 call? Does such an alloy exist? Or maybe a decently thin plate of metal armor with composite armor and Kevlar over the top in thick layers to maintain light-weight while not sacrificing durability. What do you think?
Perfectly logical question. The real answer has three elements, in my non official opinion. Firstly, every kg you add on your head is a kg of ammunition, first aid kits, radios, night vision etc that you cannot carry. You cannot carry enough armour to do without these things. Tanks can't do it. Secondly, even if you could carry it your overall awareness would drop, both sight and sound. So you'd have to rig cameras and sound, and that just adds more weight. Thirdly, there is therefore a sweet spot, balancing these factors, and that is pretty much a modern helmet. It protects you from the main threat, which is airburst shells, and the top of your mindbrain when you stick your head up from behind cover. Does that help explain?
@@tamlandipper29 Yes it does, thank you.
@@adamlaouiti6415 Level 3 plates already weigh about 10lbs. Ceramic plates about 8. HDPE about 4. Maybe 2 plates sandwiched around HDPE?
You should watch Tod’s workshop tests with arrows versus armor. Knight’s armor, while also having other design choices, put in a steep V shape below the neck to deflect the wooden shards of arrows that hit the chest, and prevent them from going up into a knight’s face or neck, and you can see it work in slow motion in Tod’s videos. I think this would be a far superior method to any sort of coating, though the two together would be the best, obviously.
Just a thought: I wonder how effectively you could recondition a steel plate like this after a hole got dug in it? Maybe Demolition Ranch could send some back, and you see how hard they are to patch, and how effective they are afterwards?
Hello from Ukraine ❤️
Hello there!
Duct tape and Kevlar are what I have my money on as the best at home option.
I'd put 4 more layers on the face of it. 2 layers just isn't enough.
Needs a bit more for sure
Hello. Cool. I waited .. I would rather have tests))) .. At the beginning of the video I wanted to advise you to wear gloves when working with resins)) but then you did it)))) you have to love working with resins))) rather not a pleasant experience if this type of work do not like)))
True American 🇺🇸 love your videos
Would convey belt rubber material be good for spalling
imperial all the way
What does that mean?
"Military Grade" so most people oh thats good quality to military people thats cheap huh lol
Real life Ragnar Lothbrok
that "yellowish" color is called "cream". Taupe is more of a tan/gray color. Nonetheless, another great video. Thank you. The metric system is ridiculous. Better to stick with the best system which is called American Standard( and no it is not the Imperial system which was in Canada and Britain but not the US!) The only problem I foresee is that fiberglass resin does not bond with Kevlar. I have had plenty of experience working with both as at one time I worked at an aircraft manufacturer whose main business was making parts and panels with Kevlar, fiberglass, and carbon materials.
Cream huh? My knowledge of colors continues to grow! Thanks for watching Robert, this is an ongoing saga.
Two rolls of Silver tape are faster. If U wanna be pro, take four rolls 😃
Where the second video ?
here are the armor playlist th-cam.com/video/pxe-9UbAygU/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/3XW0Li0UUQw/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching