Did the 86'd black spring upgrade, with a blue spring kit minus the blue spring. Pressure stuck at 40psi, idle and load. Found out the oring in the new blue spring kit that replaces the flat sided oring with round cut. The new oring was squeezing the brass plunger sticking at 40psi, truck runs fine. But I know that not a good psi. Fixed with swaping the flat sided oring back in with the rest of the new kit still used.
My 6.0 gelled up in February I added some fuel treatment. Then my batteries died so I replaced them with new ones. Kept driving it but one day I started to choke up. We changed the fuel filters. We took it for a test drive and it started to run rough. Now it barely have enough power to move. It only rough idles and doesn’t have white or black smoke coming out. I think it has the same problem as this truck and I’m wondering how much it would cost for the repair.
Injectors are $1800, fuel pump is $400 all oem ford parts. If you haven’t done standpipes and dummy plugs recently I’d throw those in also. $600 for injector labor + $100 for the pump.
Are you referring to it not having a oem filter cap? Yes, however filter height is correct with a oem filter with that cap. I do not recommend using any other cap or filter other than oem. However, in his case base of filter to base of cap is correct measurement and therefore is depressing the drain back valve down all the way.
My only question is how much did this job cost , my 6.0 has been exposed to -30F temps it’s had 204k miles In northern Colorado and I’m definitely interested in doing this to mine
Do you recommend an egr delete over a upgraded egr cooler if so what type do you recommend there's so many options and everyone has something different to say it gets a bit confusing lmk thanks Cory
@@AutomedicGarage is there a phone number I can call to talk about my truck and what issues it has maybe pin point the problems so I can decide if it's worth the work
Same exact size as his last 2 sets that wore just fine other than his ball joints prematurely wearing the fronts the last time. Lifted several duallys with same setup and works fine. Doesn’t wear any worse than factory size tires do.
If the middle of the tire is wearing out your air pressure is too high and the air pressure is overriding the shape the cords and plys in the tire are trying to hold. That (Maximum) air pressure rating on the side of the tire is not what the tire should be filled to in all cases. In a maximum load situation those maximum pressures will be good for even tire wear.
![[TH] VCT Pacific Stage 2 - Week 4 Day 3 // GEN vs TS | PRX vs ZETA](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nspkjQuZve0/mqdefault.jpg)
Did the 86'd black spring upgrade, with a blue spring kit minus the blue spring. Pressure stuck at 40psi, idle and load. Found out the oring in the new blue spring kit that replaces the flat sided oring with round cut. The new oring was squeezing the brass plunger sticking at 40psi, truck runs fine. But I know that not a good psi. Fixed with swaping the flat sided oring back in with the rest of the new kit still used.
My 6.0 gelled up in February I added some fuel treatment. Then my batteries died so I replaced them with new ones. Kept driving it but one day I started to choke up. We changed the fuel filters. We took it for a test drive and it started to run rough. Now it barely have enough power to move. It only rough idles and doesn’t have white or black smoke coming out.
I think it has the same problem as this truck and I’m wondering how much it would cost for the repair.
Injectors are $1800, fuel pump is $400 all oem ford parts. If you haven’t done standpipes and dummy plugs recently I’d throw those in also. $600 for injector labor + $100 for the pump.
What kind of lube do you use on the injectors/dummy plugs?
I use synthetic grease, never had a failed one come back or any problems.
Enjoyed the video but did you notice the oil cap? Just curious
Are you referring to it not having a oem filter cap? Yes, however filter height is correct with a oem filter with that cap. I do not recommend using any other cap or filter other than oem. However, in his case base of filter to base of cap is correct measurement and therefore is depressing the drain back valve down all the way.
@AutomedicGarage oh ok I was just wondering, I really enjoy all your videos nice stuff
My only question is how much did this job cost , my 6.0 has been exposed to -30F temps it’s had 204k miles In northern Colorado and I’m definitely interested in doing this to mine
Same exact truck not king ranch though
@@mckalewirnsberger1910 the HFCM cost around $500 from ford now. Just an hour labor to put it on.
after installing injector hook up wire harness I know you did it but need to let peeps know
Do you recommend an egr delete over a upgraded egr cooler if so what type do you recommend there's so many options and everyone has something different to say it gets a bit confusing lmk thanks
Cory
I can’t recommend either
@@AutomedicGarage I understand
@@AutomedicGarage is there a phone number I can call to talk about my truck and what issues it has maybe pin point the problems so I can decide if it's worth the work
@@coryschmidt7381 contact info is on our website www.automedicgarage.com
How many hours would you say this job took?
Diagnosing and R&R of all parts around 4 hrs.
Gary's new tires are too wide for the wheels. The middle will wear out. Been there, done that.
Same exact size as his last 2 sets that wore just fine other than his ball joints prematurely wearing the fronts the last time. Lifted several duallys with same setup and works fine. Doesn’t wear any worse than factory size tires do.
If the middle of the tire is wearing out your air pressure is too high and the air pressure is overriding the shape the cords and plys in the tire are trying to hold. That (Maximum) air pressure rating on the side of the tire is not what the tire should be filled to in all cases. In a maximum load situation those maximum pressures will be good for even tire wear.