AT LAST! Part 3 is up! In this final part on the Class 221 Super Voyager from Bachmann, we get to see inside the main drive unit - and discover that beauty may only be skin deep?
Great video, all I would suggest it to run the power car round, on its own and at full speed for about an hour. This will let it 'run in' which is recommended by my local model shop and Bachmann themselves.
If your worried about those screws coming lose on the bogies, try 243 threadlock loctite. Apply on the thread, then tighten to desired tension, and leave it to set (takes seconds) afterwards you should find that the bogies will never need not come apart again. Hope this information is useful for easier maintenance for future running.
Great video - very informative. I really like "how-to" videos like this, even though I only model steam locos and as such am very unlikely to ever pick up one of these.
@InterCity82 Just an idea I had from my bike riding, we use a lock tight on sertain screws, bolts and spoke nipples (the nut on the end of the spoke) to prevent them from working loose, maybe a small drop will give the range of movment needed while stopping the screw coming loose and to save money, tip ex work just as well. I use it on my flying scotsman to stop the draw bar working loose.
@gunnerman1100 - sadly the washers won't work as that would remove the freedom from the chasis again. The bogies pull down on the chasis through the screws you see, so if you create a gap and then fill it again with a washer you're back at square one. So far all seems ok - but I will keep my eye on her.
@biggkevv1973 - although I can understand what you're trying to suggest, I do not think it will work in this situation. As you can see in the video there is a metal washer that serves 2 purposes, 1) is to stop the spring riding up the length of the screw and 2) it is this washer against which the screw tightens. If we were to use a longer screw it would just continue thru the hole until it hit the motor unit underneath.
@williwaler6 - lol, it's locos, not loco's - no need for the apostrophe :) But you should open them up, don't be afraid. Start with something small or old or un-important and work your way up. It's the best way to learn.
you guys may have just solved my pendolino problem or derailing. watched this for a review lol. ending up being the most useful video ive seen. thankyou! merry christmas and happy new year
@mcgherkinstudios - longer screws would not solve it as the bogies rest on the screws. If you were to screw the longer screw down into the bogie there wouldn't be room for it and it would sit up inside the chassis, meaning when you lift the unit up, the bogies would hang down way too much. Nice idea but sadly we did already think about that before making the video. Also, many people would struggle to find a screw with exactly the right thread. I'll take on board the dramatic music idea :)
IC82 and Craig please don't take offence with this comment but down here in OZ we have curves on our tracks not bends or corners. I'm purchacing all Hornby quality trains for my layout because when you are on a good thing stick to it. Keep the good reviews coming.
In response to your comment that Bachmann dont always get it right, I am definitely in agreement. I have always preferred Hornby, I purchased a couple of Bachmann items and I was not impressed. I have since gotten rid of the items and only purchased Hornby.
@EverardJunction - it may be an ageing model but it's still widely available and for sale in a lot of shops all over the country and so this video may be very useful to people that already have the class 221 or are thinking about getting one. Another important part of the video was to show that this myth going around that Bachmann are superior to every other make in every single way is quite simply not true.
I have the same problem with my virgin pendolino from hornby it derailed on nearly all my bends :( I used the same technique of loosening the screws a bit and now it works great :)
@JayJJ69 - Washers wouldn't work unfortunately. The screws aren't holding anything down, but rather lifting the bogie up. So if you create a gap and then plug that gap with a washer, the bogie becomes tight again. In short, the design is flawed and the tilting mechanism makes this problem even worse. For now all seems ok, but we'll just have to see how long she lasts I guess!
i watched this video when i first got in to the hobby and didnt have a clue what you was talking about i watch it now and think what a mess they really need to release the voyager !
@Amsalpedalb - ahh well I'm glad this video is up, because there does seem to be this myth that Bachmann are superior to all other makes in every single way and it really, quite simply is not true. And as for them InterCity pickups - yes, I'm glad my one of those is sorted :)
hattons is great i got my bridge from there when i first got into the hobby and it was prety much the first thing i bought i havent been recently but i might ask my dad if i could go again
@T0pper221 - lol, thanks but we really will be ok in DCCing her. We've chipped tender driven locos and even 1970s split chassis locos where the electricity is conducted around the entire chasis! If we can do them, we can do anything lol. I still like the nice and easy jobs the most tho lol
Mine had exactly the same problem.....constant derailments until I loosened the bogies. However the motor in mine was truly atrocious and didn't last that long at all, and ran very slowly
i have those micro sockets on my stewart F3 A/b set...both units are programed with the same # and to run together they must be connected together much like the real units...i'll send u the vid here to show u..they also use the first generation type DCC decoders..great vid just awsome!!!
I know how you feel with this sort of thing. 2 nrm flying scotsmans laiter and still not working right. Given up with warrenties, dcc supplies and other parties and have under taken the work myself. Motor swaps, taken out the plug and play pin and removed the tender pick ups, just for starters. Just a little though, have you tried puting some washers/ spacers around the screws? Should keep them tight and yet allow movement. Great vids, cheers.
Great review and excellent info, dont know alot about the maintenance side of things but a suggestion in regards to the screw being slightly loose, would it be possible to put an extra washer on the screw maybe help. Also if anyone is having problems with the Hornby pendolino tail end derailing i found it just needs more weight adding inside mine runs fine now touch wood.
@MyWorldIsTech - It is a shame but to do it properly, yes, it will cost at least that to chip it. And it's a train, well techincally a DMU - not a locomotive. :)
@TRAINALEX100 - for now the train seems fine - she will be checked at regular periods and if further steps need to be taken they will be. But for now, all is ok.
@MrJezza31 It's hit and miss really, every single loco and piece of rolling stock you see on everard junction apart from my class 58 and class 31, has been purchased from hattons. To date i have had no problems with them.
That train is cursed. I saw another vid of a 220 or 221 in XC (Crosscountry) livery. The motor was louder than a power drill! I think it was also manufactured by Bachmann.
it the same with my Eurostar ts has been a nighmare, first the drive unit broke then the new coaches had broken bogies and the drive unit went in for repair again!
@InterCity82 On my temporary layout I only have 2nd and 3rd radius curves and the 3rd one is for DCC :/ So for now when I get this unit it will have to be operated on 2nd radius.
@gtswildfire the Voyager is certainly a well detailed train but inside it's not that good. I would recommend the Pendolino over the Voyager 220/221 but with some determination and know-how, it is possible to make the Voyager good.
@jackakapieface - I didn't score it, Craig did (the guy who opened her up). We were fair with the score really, and you'll see she did do poorly for performance. The rest of her is really good, it's just a shame about the motor.
Do you think you'll do more vids like this where you look at fixing problems. Ive got a bachman hall which has the same problem of not going round corners.
If the problem's with the tilting mechanism, maybe the response is to re-tool the model to remove it, Admittedly if you do that then you're kind of limited to putting them out in CrossCountry livery, but...
Since this is a Bachmann engine, they do have some issues. I had a problem with my Jubilee's valve-gear, which I sorted out by tightening the bolt in the main motion piece connected to the middle-drivers. Now I have a problem with my J72, also Bachmann, the engine seems to be skipping on its middle wheels, not enough to derail, but enough to cause considerable stress on the motor. Have you come up with this problem at all?
@graystrainspotter - for the sake of £10 for one extra chip it's ok. Besides, what if the end bodies don't fit on the centre chasis? I haven't tried it but they might not fit. I'll check.
Hello, I have the same model, but the engine does not derail me, if the intermediate cars do, should I do the same procedure with the bolts of the bogies? thanks Gustavo from Argentina
to build this layout plan i have it would cost £291 on track alone. and should i be storing my trains in the polystyryn foam and the rack in a basket? is that bad for them?
@BulletAchemist - no need for the apostrophe mate :) It's just 58s when you're talking about lots of them. And I do have a total of 5 now! Well spotted!
what i would do is swap the the bodys over so the motor car is in the middle and i would get this train dcc fitted. But if you are planing of getting is chip will you do a video on that.
i once bout a bachmann F9 deisel with a very noisy mechanism it has a pancake motor, i bought it over ten years ago lol. It seemed to run okay the last time i used it. it sounded like a gas powered leaf blower
Mine's a normal Virgin Voyager, and I'm having some trouble with it, as it makes a horrible grinding noise when it runs in one direction. Any suggestions?
Excellent vid, thanks v.much. Can you say on comparison to the Hornby competitor?? I'm at the point of getting a Voyager, and am at the decision point: 220 and 221 wanted (along with Pendolino), do I go Bachmann or Hornby?? Your review vids are excellent - and along with these it appears Hornby wins, but have you any experience of the Hornby model too? Many thanks
@Martin Cooper: I have had the exact same issue as you it starts off and then after a while the shaft comes out of the end then i have to put it back in again. It's such a pain as it is doing it regularly. The noise it makes sounds bad when the shaft has came out it is like vvrrrrrooooooooooooooorrrrrm :o
well i have had a few problems with mine, i made the mistake of trying to run her super slow when she wasn't fully run in, and she conked out(my fault but she runs now) then this morning i nooticed she was spinning one bogie only to find one of the driveshafts came out the motor end so i had reconnect that but other than that. a great loco. better than the eurostar
Great video, all I would suggest it to run the power car round, on its own and at full speed for about an hour. This will let it 'run in' which is recommended by my local model shop and Bachmann themselves.
If your worried about those screws coming lose on the bogies, try 243 threadlock loctite. Apply on the thread, then tighten to desired tension, and leave it to set (takes seconds) afterwards you should find that the bogies will never need not come apart again. Hope this information is useful for easier maintenance for future running.
yes! I know exactly what you mean to be honest. I've had similar problems on several Bachmann locomotives - but my steam locos have been OK so far.
@jazzyjaxroadshow - it wasn't sold as DCC ready - but opening her up revealed that they were going to make her DCC ready and then stopped.
Great video - very informative. I really like "how-to" videos like this, even though I only model steam locos and as such am very unlikely to ever pick up one of these.
@InterCity82 Just an idea I had from my bike riding, we use a lock tight on sertain screws, bolts and spoke nipples (the nut on the end of the spoke) to prevent them from working loose, maybe a small drop will give the range of movment needed while stopping the screw coming loose and to save money, tip ex work just as well. I use it on my flying scotsman to stop the draw bar working loose.
The Dynamic Duo! hope to see more vids of the two of you as this was a very good vid :)
@gunnerman1100 - sadly the washers won't work as that would remove the freedom from the chasis again. The bogies pull down on the chasis through the screws you see, so if you create a gap and then fill it again with a washer you're back at square one. So far all seems ok - but I will keep my eye on her.
@biggkevv1973 - although I can understand what you're trying to suggest, I do not think it will work in this situation. As you can see in the video there is a metal washer that serves 2 purposes, 1) is to stop the spring riding up the length of the screw and 2) it is this washer against which the screw tightens. If we were to use a longer screw it would just continue thru the hole until it hit the motor unit underneath.
I think this train definitely deserves a retool so this unit can run flawlessly
@williwaler6 - lol, it's locos, not loco's - no need for the apostrophe :) But you should open them up, don't be afraid. Start with something small or old or un-important and work your way up. It's the best way to learn.
you guys may have just solved my pendolino problem or derailing. watched this for a review lol. ending up being the most useful video ive seen. thankyou! merry christmas and happy new year
@mcgherkinstudios - longer screws would not solve it as the bogies rest on the screws. If you were to screw the longer screw down into the bogie there wouldn't be room for it and it would sit up inside the chassis, meaning when you lift the unit up, the bogies would hang down way too much. Nice idea but sadly we did already think about that before making the video. Also, many people would struggle to find a screw with exactly the right thread. I'll take on board the dramatic music idea :)
mine is pretty quiet and runs really smooth... its strange how ever model differs for reasons
@MrBenbo96 - wow! nice! :) I love it when special wagons get commisioned
IC82 and Craig please don't take offence with this comment but down here in OZ we have curves on our tracks not bends or corners. I'm purchacing all Hornby quality trains for my layout because when you are on a good thing stick to it. Keep the good reviews coming.
@BMR5ify - Crewe Works is the name given to the Dining Table and that room basically - it's full of tools and locomotives and parts :)
In response to your comment that Bachmann dont always get it right, I am definitely in agreement. I have always preferred Hornby, I purchased a couple of Bachmann items and I was not impressed. I have since gotten rid of the items and only purchased Hornby.
you can see the engine glowing through the windows
lol
i want one though!!!
nice train
@EverardJunction - it may be an ageing model but it's still widely available and for sale in a lot of shops all over the country and so this video may be very useful to people that already have the class 221 or are thinking about getting one. Another important part of the video was to show that this myth going around that Bachmann are superior to every other make in every single way is quite simply not true.
@MegaTrainlover - they're currently DC and so not on constant and bright like lights are in a DCC loco/train. But they do work.
used to have that problem with my pendolino and found out that the tilting mechanism was bloacking the turn, fixed now though and runs like a beauty
great that you have brung back the tally chat at the end
nice video! glad that you and gregg got her working properly.
I have the same problem with my virgin pendolino from hornby it derailed on nearly all my bends :( I used the same technique of loosening the screws a bit and now it works great :)
@JayJJ69 - Washers wouldn't work unfortunately. The screws aren't holding anything down, but rather lifting the bogie up. So if you create a gap and then plug that gap with a washer, the bogie becomes tight again. In short, the design is flawed and the tilting mechanism makes this problem even worse. For now all seems ok, but we'll just have to see how long she lasts I guess!
i watched this video when i first got in to the hobby and didnt have a clue what you was talking about i watch it now and think what a mess they really need to release the voyager !
@tpe18509 - lol, thanks :) he's called Craig by the way
@Whiggles1 - thanks for the comment, glad you liked the video at least :)
ahhh yes! I had the same problem with mine. I wish Bachmann would sort their sometimes crappy motors out.
@Amsalpedalb - ahh well I'm glad this video is up, because there does seem to be this myth that Bachmann are superior to all other makes in every single way and it really, quite simply is not true. And as for them InterCity pickups - yes, I'm glad my one of those is sorted :)
I got the 220 version of the voyager and ran into some trouble with the crankshaft which fell apart, otherwise I love the voyager model.
@TheMysticDave - I shall definitely be looking into the noisy motor problem - that's for sure.
hattons is great i got my bridge from there when i first got into the hobby and it was prety much the first thing i bought i havent been recently but i might ask my dad if i could go again
@T0pper221 - lol, thanks but we really will be ok in DCCing her. We've chipped tender driven locos and even 1970s split chassis locos where the electricity is conducted around the entire chasis! If we can do them, we can do anything lol. I still like the nice and easy jobs the most tho lol
Mine had exactly the same problem.....constant derailments until I loosened the bogies. However the motor in mine was truly atrocious and didn't last that long at all, and ran very slowly
7:32 Sorry for the 2 comments but that is exactly the same as the class 170 turbostar has the same socket ! arrangement
@IgotPMT silly suggestion but try using the motor unit in the centre of the train formation
i have those micro sockets on my stewart F3 A/b set...both units are programed with the same # and to run together they must be connected together much like the real units...i'll send u the vid here to show u..they also use the first generation type DCC decoders..great vid just awsome!!!
@dilwich123 - hehe, well Craig scored it actually as he wanted it because he loves Doctor Who.
Should be returned back to Bachmann "not fit for purpose"
Q: Does Hornby have the same problem?
I have one of these units and it works amazingly well!
But I got it second hand; so maby the original owner did have problems and he fixed it
@gtacrusher123 - that features on all normal loco and train reviews - but not on all *SPECIALS*
@MrPetrolhead09 - haha, yes, fingers crossed hey! :)
I know how you feel with this sort of thing. 2 nrm flying scotsmans laiter and still not working right. Given up with warrenties, dcc supplies and other parties and have under taken the work myself. Motor swaps, taken out the plug and play pin and removed the tender pick ups, just for starters. Just a little though, have you tried puting some washers/ spacers around the screws? Should keep them tight and yet allow movement. Great vids, cheers.
@FergDaddy101 - special vids on her are coming up in the Summer I think.
Great review and excellent info, dont know alot about the maintenance side of things but a suggestion in regards to the screw being slightly loose, would it be possible to put an extra washer on the screw maybe help. Also if anyone is having problems with the Hornby pendolino tail end derailing i found it just needs more weight adding inside mine runs fine now touch wood.
@InterCity82 No its just that the Super Voyager lights don't seem to light up. Or is it just me?
@IgotPMT silly suggestion but try using the motor unit in the centre
@gbonesteak - for now they seem ok but I shall keep my eye on them
@HevyTH1 it's a big job and a big video. I will get round to doing it but I'm in no rush at the moment.
@theLEGOcommander1 - hmmmm odd. Try it on a small bit of test track and see what she does then?
She looks great
cant wait to see the board how long is it going to take and also does it tilt like the pendolino
I have a class 220 in cross country
If you use a little threadlock on the screw , that should solve the problem of the screw working loose
@MyWorldIsTech - It is a shame but to do it properly, yes, it will cost at least that to chip it. And it's a train, well techincally a DMU - not a locomotive. :)
@TRAINALEX100 - for now the train seems fine - she will be checked at regular periods and if further steps need to be taken they will be. But for now, all is ok.
@MrJezza31 It's hit and miss really, every single loco and piece of rolling stock you see on everard junction apart from my class 58 and class 31, has been purchased from hattons. To date i have had no problems with them.
That train is cursed. I saw another vid of a 220 or 221 in XC (Crosscountry) livery. The motor was louder than a power drill! I think it was also manufactured by Bachmann.
it the same with my Eurostar ts has been a nighmare, first the drive unit broke then the new coaches had broken bogies and the drive unit went in for repair again!
What was the true cause and response of the derailment on the curve?
@itgamer100 - haha you caught me - I do have a Midland Mainline HST. You don't miss a thing! lol
@InterCity82 On my temporary layout I only have 2nd and 3rd radius curves and the 3rd one is for DCC :/ So for now when I get this unit it will have to be operated on 2nd radius.
@gtswildfire the Voyager is certainly a well detailed train but inside it's not that good. I would recommend the Pendolino over the Voyager 220/221 but with some determination and know-how, it is possible to make the Voyager good.
Nice video, very informative.
@Simplex1988 - for now all seems ok but I will keep my eye on her.
@InterCity82 Thnx. Im still thinking about geting her but I dont know yet.
@LegoTransport99 not anyone - it is quite hard to DCC
@jackakapieface - I didn't score it, Craig did (the guy who opened her up). We were fair with the score really, and you'll see she did do poorly for performance. The rest of her is really good, it's just a shame about the motor.
Do you think you'll do more vids like this where you look at fixing problems. Ive got a bachman hall which has the same problem of not going round corners.
@itgamer100 - it will, just - but I don't recommend it. Go for 3rd or higher.
@introducingmichael It's three carriages, and the middle carriage is the motor unit, so its been making that noise anyway :(
If the problem's with the tilting mechanism, maybe the response is to re-tool the model to remove it, Admittedly if you do that then you're kind of limited to putting them out in CrossCountry livery, but...
+Deadbeatloser22 This is how they can make the train tilt. The problem was tightening the screw with too much tension in the assembly.
Since this is a Bachmann engine, they do have some issues. I had a problem with my Jubilee's valve-gear, which I sorted out by tightening the bolt in the main motion piece connected to the middle-drivers. Now I have a problem with my J72, also Bachmann, the engine seems to be skipping on its middle wheels, not enough to derail, but enough to cause considerable stress on the motor. Have you come up with this problem at all?
@graystrainspotter - for the sake of £10 for one extra chip it's ok. Besides, what if the end bodies don't fit on the centre chasis? I haven't tried it but they might not fit. I'll check.
If you were to DCC her then you could use 2 de-coders and have the motor DC because the Hornby Select and Elite can handle 1 DC loco.
Hi, have you oiled this loco? I can't seem to see any obvious places to do so, the instruction sheet isn't much use either, cheers
Hello, I have the same model, but the engine does not derail me, if the intermediate cars do, should I do the same procedure with the bolts of the bogies? thanks Gustavo from Argentina
@Xenotronics - that will be inspected but for now at least she's on the track. One thing at a time hey lol :)
i have got the class 220 and its doesn't derail but it keeps making a short circuit on the layout :/
The APT Project series of vids will appear in Series 4, after the Prologue is done.
to build this layout plan i have it would cost £291 on track alone. and should i be storing my trains in the polystyryn foam and the rack in a basket? is that bad for them?
@itgamer100 Are you sure? Because in the catalog they say it doesn't tilt.
@BulletAchemist - no need for the apostrophe mate :) It's just 58s when you're talking about lots of them. And I do have a total of 5 now! Well spotted!
what i would do is swap the the bodys over so the motor car is in the middle and i would get this train dcc fitted. But if you are planing of getting is chip will you do a video on that.
i once bout a bachmann F9 deisel with a very noisy mechanism it has a pancake motor, i bought it over ten years ago lol. It seemed to run okay the last time i used it. it sounded like a gas powered leaf blower
Mine's a normal Virgin Voyager, and I'm having some trouble with it, as it makes a horrible grinding noise when it runs in one direction. Any suggestions?
Excellent vid, thanks v.much. Can you say on comparison to the Hornby competitor?? I'm at the point of getting a Voyager, and am at the decision point: 220 and 221 wanted (along with Pendolino), do I go Bachmann or Hornby?? Your review vids are excellent - and along with these it appears Hornby wins, but have you any experience of the Hornby model too? Many thanks
@Martin Cooper: I have had the exact same issue as you it starts off and then after a while the shaft comes out of the end then i have to put it back in again. It's such a pain as it is doing it regularly. The noise it makes sounds bad when the shaft has came out it is like vvrrrrrooooooooooooooorrrrrm :o
@stephensrailways Very informative video as well!
I think I will, but it will be a huge project!
are you going to do a video on how to dcc this? you said it's difficult so I would be greatful
What is your Heljan Class 14 doing in Crewe Works? Also what is wrong with the Super Voyager Lights.
@conor5643 - haha lol, yes well I shall definitely do more like this :) I think people found it useful.
Who makes the APT
Where is the APT from
what was the name of the tool that was used to get th body from the chassis?
a DCC controller is a digital controller ad it can control more trains at once
hello if you put a drop of nail varnish on one side of the screw and body you can tell if the screw has moved or not thanks paul
well i have had a few problems with mine, i made the mistake of trying to run her super slow when she wasn't fully run in, and she conked out(my fault but she runs now) then this morning i nooticed she was spinning one bogie only to find one of the driveshafts came out the motor end so i had reconnect that but other than that. a great loco. better than the eurostar
Sounds like your Voyager will be much better than the original!