How To Tell If Your MAF Sensor Is Faulty! How to replace a Mercedes 200 230 Kompressor MAF sensor
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- Mercedes Benz 200 and 230 Kompressor MAF sensor faults and failure on the M111 engine and the most common symptoms, no boost reduced power. This applies to the pre-facelift Mercedes Benz M111 found in the modern classic Mercedes Benz 200 and 230 Kompressor cars, but also some can apply to Mercedes Benz 180 200 220 and 230 C class E class Slk and Clk. I forgot to mention sometimes if the MAF has totally failed beyond salvageability can cause misfires.
once again hope this helps thanks for watching.
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Hi mate finding your videos really helpful my 230 kompressor doesn’t currently Rev properly plugged it in iv got codes p0300 p0301 p0302 all cylinder misfires and iv got code p0110 intake air temp sensor would this point towards a faulty maf sensor? When I unplug the maf the car cuts out and will not run at all
Wouldn't it be better to remove the MAF from the tubular housing, and then actually be able to clean the filament (which is at the sides as you're looking down into the MAF tube. It appeared that you were just spraying the contact cleaner onto the top and bottom of the plastic filament cover, which obviously ain't going to do a lot.
Yes your absolutely right, this method does work but it's not as effective as the method you state. The main thing to remember though is not everyone has the security torx screw driver bits to remove the retaining screws.
@@M-oneeleven-M111 - Good point, cheers mate.
Very interesting, thx. I've got an issue with my SLK 230 k (1998). I was thinking my MAF is dead but my compressor pulley engages itself properly. I was really to change it...
Do you think I can say my MAF is okay, and try again to find an other reason why my motor runs so bad ? or is it still possible that the cause is the maf ?
I'm glad it helped you, it depends what your symptoms are? Sometimes as the MAF is just dirty or is just starting to go bad the Supercharger will engage as normal but they car may feel slightly slower off the line. When the MAF has completely failed the Supercharger starts to not engage and you can get sporadic misfires and stalling issues. But not all power loss issue's are related to the MAF the O2 sensor too can be just as common of a culprit as it's unable to trim the fuel it runs rich causing a loss of power. But without any fault codes it's hard to say. Is your engine management light on?
Hey man, nice video. I’ve got an issue. My SLK has sat for 6 years (I inherited it from my dad). I fixed it up and killed 6 codes which sprung from some few severed wires from mice which connected to the MAF which I repaired. Everything has been fine but the car recently had a MAF code come up p0100 and I can’t for the life of me figure out the issue. I replaced the MAF again and it’s still there. I tried checking vacuum leaks and it’s still there. I opened the tubing up and there’s a film of oil in the upper tubing connecting to the throttle body, but not below the MAF or on the MAF. I’m at such a loss as to how to kill this code. The car stutters and wants to stall and has stalled once but the only code I get is p0100 and no one I ask knows what’s happening either
Hi Robert, thank you for your kind words if not already please subscribe this helps TH-cam suggest my videos to a wider audience so I can help more people 👍. So first this I will ask is it a genuine Bosch MAF sensor? Using a aftermarket cheaper brands often cause this exact situation, they work for a few runs then all of a sudden the Bosch management system decides it's doesn't like it and pings up a code. If it is genuine Bosch then it's possible repairing the wiring has altered the resistance of the wire, this often happens if solder is used to repair broken wires. Sensors often work on resistance the MAF doesn't but altering the resistance of the wires can still cause errors with what the ECU sees. If there is no visable contamination on a genuine Bosch MAF sensor the issue is likely to be the wiring. If this is the case I recommend replacing the engine harness with a good used one, sounds daunting but this engines are very basic and have minimal sensors so isn't too big of a job. Is yours a M111 pre Evo so pre 2001 car? Post 2001 M111 Evo is slightly more complex but the same MAF information applies 🙂
Hi. Did you do a video on relocating the MAF? If so, please link. Thanks.
Hi I did, however I've just found TH-cam has removed it, I've been having the on going issue with them randomly deleting videos. That said here is a link to a old write up I did it may help, I am trying to see if I backed the video up anywhere. www.slkworld.com/threads/mercedes-200-230-kompressor-pre-evo-maf-sensor-relocation.573368/
@@M-oneeleven-M111 thanks!
thx mate, i have some issues with my M111 do u have fb or insta?
You can email me @ alex.moneeleven@gmail.com and I will reply when I can 🙂
Cool video bro , whats up with that o2 sensor? What symptoms are u occuring
Thank you 🙂, bogging down under load , high fuel consumption, random misfires under load (that's probably coil related not sensor). The O2 looks like the original MB one too. I seem to recall an old O2 code aswell last time we had DAS on it.
hello, whats your opinion on removing all the mesh from the maf for better airflow? same for the mesh in the engine throttle body. Does it actually do anything? thanks
It's a filter. One leaf gets in there, doesn't get stopped by the mesh, and your MAF filament is dead. Nto a good idea buddy.
@@unkelartgarf3792 th-cam.com/video/tKZ4M6I4dA8/w-d-xo.html
Im asking because this guy claims that removing that mesh "wakes the car up" and im curious about peoples expereince with such mod.
In my clk 200 N/A (m111.945) when I disconnect my MAF the engine is running hard, poor accelerate and even stall, when it is plugged in, if I push the gas pedal over a certain point it stops accelerating and become sluggish, if I press the pedal very slowly it is better but not good, when I disconnected my O2 sensors nothing changed. What can be the problem? Like I don't have the preprogrammed fuel map? Or the system compensate with the MAF, and without it cannot do? Thank you in advance
Hey buddy, it sounds like a potential failing MAF sensor but there are a few things that can give the same sort of symptoms. Something that is often overlooked is the fuel pump and fuel filter often limited fuel will limit engine performance that and poor fuel pressure. But to get a better idea how does the car run when stationary? Does it have a lumpy/rough idle do you have any problems with starting the car for example long cranking or the car starting and cutting out right away? Some issues that give the same sort of symptoms as a MAF can be linked to the camshaft position sensor or the crankshaft position. Based on what you have said it seems like the car maybe either struggling to measure the air flow into the engine or struggling to get enough fuel to the engine when it's required which would make a MAF sensor or fuel system issue more likely.
Whilst going through it, often it's just worth checking the condition of the camshaft position sensor by removing it and seeing if there is any contamination stuck to the end of it. This is located on the right side of the front of the engine just below the seal for the valve cover. Also worth checking the condition of the crank position sensor too and making sure there is no corrosion in the contact's in the plugs.
This all looks very confusing, but I suggest a lot straight away to help get a better idea and learn some more history of the car so I can better help for example if you have replaced any parts or had any other issues prior to this current issue.
@@M-oneeleven-M111 thank you, I have replaced my crankshaft position sensor before, I brought to a Bosch Car Service but they didn't help me much, they cannot see any problem by computer, (or maybe they are just lazy, they refused to change a fuel line before for me for another car)I bought the car without noticing the problem, I have replaced the coils, and the spark plugs. Can I check the fuel pressure without a professional gauge?
Thank you
@@M-oneeleven-M111 maybe the problem is getting worse and worse, but not a very drastic way, my stationary is still, but a little bit it is like the car is breathing, like 60-80 RPM differents, when the engine is cold it is worse, but when I go for a long highway ride it is better, even after the trip, when I push too hard, I mean 180-190 kph , something happen and I am in LIMP mode, when I restart the engine it is back to "normal", I don't have a check engine light , I think the dealer had deleted it, because it is not visible in the key second position.
@@M-oneeleven-M111 today I've replaced the MAF with a brand new BOSCH, and all of my problems are gone. Thank you very much!
@@M-oneeleven-M111hi its been 2yrs since you made this video.
I hope you are well I know you probably have people still asking for advice.
Please help me I'm trying to do this on my own and I am a single mom who has never worked on a car .❤ 8:05
I can't afford shop prices..
I have a 1999 Mercedes C230 Kompressor. I had a check engine light on . Took my car to be read at autozone goylk😮
Within the last month the car has been running harder.
2 days ago my alternator went out while driving on the highway. The car was not idling hard before the alternator went out.
So now I have just replaced the alternator and the car started right up however now the car is sluggish and little to no acceleration