Surely using steel wire is a no-no with salt presence. Anti Alkaline Primer isn't going to be effective if efflorescence is still occuring behind it. First need to neutralize the salts with muriatic acid like lemon juice or distilled vinegar until it stops fizzing. Then all this to evaporate as, quite correctly, washing off will only reactivate the salt crystalization. Brush down surfaces with a non-metal stiff brush. The Coovar will stick to the prepared surface. Occasionally there will be a show through which can repeat process. For any saturated plaster then best practice is to remove back to brick...then the above treated before replastering/rendering with a breathable waterproof additive. (PVA is water soluble so this will be counter productive on it's own). Once plaster has dried out fully .....use a moisture meter...then repeat with. Coovar Anti Alkaline Primer BEFORE any finishing Vinyl Emulsion Coatings. After years of salt-water WC supply ingress repairs this is the most effective system l have found & proven. Any additional advice welcomed
Hi just a question - right after applying vinegar on the walls and then brushing it, do I then wipe/wash it down with a watee or just leave wipe using dry towel? So just for context; My bedroom (in an apartment) initially was painted in almost off-white colour, so efflorescence wasn't noticeable at all(didn't know my room wall has it). Called a painter to repaint room with dark blue and the process was sealer > primer > paint. Few hours after painters left, my whole bedroom walls were left with white patches of efflorescence. So went to asked the painters what happened and they only said something along like 'since sealer was already applied and this issue came up, it means your wall is damaged and requires full plastering to solve it'. Which I didn't know to believe or not. So now every few weeks I have to give my room walls a wipe down because the white patches kept appearing.
Ideal for priming, sealing and stabilising new, dry alkaline surfaces such as new lime plaster, cement and concrete. It can also be used to seal stains, stabilise powdery chalky surfaces and promote adhesion to glass, ceramics and some plastics. thanks
Good vid as always I decorated an old cottage about 4 months ago with lime plaster which had the same problem it had been plastered over in places with modern gypsum plaster causing it to blow and painted over lime with vynil Matt in places the walls were wet with damp it was an absolute nightmare I had to use alki primer then used McPhersons eclipse water permissible emulsion so the areas that were not sealed could breathe
No.... it's absolutely necessary to neutralize salts first & am anti salt stabilizing solution is an option although l have found muriatic acid is best stabiliser
It's dust mask but is good for volatile compounds as well FFP3 Dust Masks Protects against higher levels of dust. Protects against solid and liquid aerosols. Higher protection than FFP1, and FFP2. Can be used for handling hazardous powders such as those in the pharmaceutical industry. Recommended when in doubt of protection needed. OEL: Protects against materials in concentrations 50x limit. APF: Protects against materials in concentrations 20x limit.
I have to confess that I had never heard of Coo-Var. Very interesting video, thanks. Clever stuff.
Surely using steel wire is a no-no with salt presence. Anti Alkaline Primer isn't going to be effective if efflorescence is still occuring behind it. First need to neutralize the salts with muriatic acid like lemon juice or distilled vinegar until it stops fizzing. Then all this to evaporate as, quite correctly, washing off will only reactivate the salt crystalization. Brush down surfaces with a non-metal stiff brush. The Coovar will stick to the prepared surface. Occasionally there will be a show through which can repeat process. For any saturated plaster then best practice is to remove back to brick...then the above treated before replastering/rendering with a breathable waterproof additive. (PVA is water soluble so this will be counter productive on it's own). Once plaster has dried out fully .....use a moisture meter...then repeat with. Coovar Anti Alkaline Primer BEFORE any finishing Vinyl Emulsion Coatings. After years of salt-water WC supply ingress repairs this is the most effective system l have found & proven. Any additional advice welcomed
Hi just a question - right after applying vinegar on the walls and then brushing it, do I then wipe/wash it down with a watee or just leave wipe using dry towel?
So just for context; My bedroom (in an apartment) initially was painted in almost off-white colour, so efflorescence wasn't noticeable at all(didn't know my room wall has it). Called a painter to repaint room with dark blue and the process was sealer > primer > paint. Few hours after painters left, my whole bedroom walls were left with white patches of efflorescence. So went to asked the painters what happened and they only said something along like 'since sealer was already applied and this issue came up, it means your wall is damaged and requires full plastering to solve it'. Which I didn't know to believe or not. So now every few weeks I have to give my room walls a wipe down because the white patches kept appearing.
Do you use this primer before plastering? Or can you use it on top of dry plaster?
Do you have a problem in the substrate?
Does the Alkali Resistant Primer allow the substrate to continue "breathing"...
Ideal for priming, sealing and stabilising new, dry alkaline surfaces such as new lime plaster, cement and concrete. It can also be used to seal stains, stabilise powdery chalky surfaces and promote adhesion to glass, ceramics and some plastics. thanks
@Painting and Decorating , thank you so much!!!
Good vid as always I decorated an old cottage about 4 months ago with lime plaster which had the same problem it had been plastered over in places with modern gypsum plaster causing it to blow and painted over lime with vynil Matt in places the walls were wet with damp it was an absolute nightmare I had to use alki primer then used McPhersons eclipse water permissible emulsion so the areas that were not sealed could breathe
Thanks, old buildings can be a pain to work on at times.
@@PaintingandDecorating yes they can but all the time spent on preparation is well worth it as they look lovely when finished
Does the alkali primer mean you don't need to use a salt neutraliser?
Yes it stops this . Thanks
No.... it's absolutely necessary to neutralize salts first & am anti salt stabilizing solution is an option although l have found muriatic acid is best
stabiliser
Where can I buy this product from?
Would this stop salt coming back through
Yes..
Another good vid..👍
thanks
If you don't seal it from the outside the efflorescence will just come back.
what have you got on your face lol
It's dust mask but is good for volatile compounds as well FFP3 Dust Masks
Protects against higher levels of dust.
Protects against solid and liquid aerosols.
Higher protection than FFP1, and FFP2.
Can be used for handling hazardous powders such as those in the pharmaceutical industry.
Recommended when in doubt of protection needed.
OEL: Protects against materials in concentrations 50x limit.
APF: Protects against materials in concentrations 20x limit.