Tom. Mahon, Redmaynes' head cutter demonstrates the drafting of a bespoke pattern. The system used is known as "rock of eye' where no block patterns are used.
another treat! Ive been hoping for this video forever! I am not in the trade myself but really do love watching Tom working his skills and experience and what lighting speed he was! thank you for sharing!
As my shoulders are quite square and and with more frontal prominence I always found any jacket where the shoulder seam was cut towards the back of the sleeve head and not to the centre of the shoulder point or even slightly forward of it; caused the coat to slip backwards off my shoulders. This may well be a balance issue though rather than that cut style..
can you show us the process for actually cutting the cloth based on the pattern? That's kind of the missing step: choose cloth - take measurements - cut pattern - ?? - first fitting, etc. Thanks.
Is that one of those "anderson style sleeves" you made? Where the undersleeve is almost a straight line and you tailor in the surplus underneath the armhole?
Please i have a question. Im very new to suit drafting, so i do it on paper. Are the style lines of a suit functional or just aesthetic? Do they have a purpose being where they are, or does it just look pretty?
Do they still use different shears for fabric and paper? As a child, my mother showed me her fabric scissors and told me, under no circumstances do I use these for anything other than cutting fabric, otherwise it ruins the edge and won't cut the fabric very well, and would have to get them re-sharpened.
Is the jacket on the mannequin still a "drape cut"? As in there's excess fabric across the chest to give both volume and shape in contraste to close cut?
Is there no good software for this? Enter measurements, and some forulas for styles/adjustments, and then it creates the pattern based on a set of heuristics?
The answer is yes and NO. You can plug numbers into a computer and it prints a pattern, this is what made to measure on the internet does. But this is _bespoke_ and that means it fits every single detail of the person. For example, I have an anterior pelvic tilt, my pelvic slants forward, a computer-drafted pair of trousers can not account for this, I can when I draft them. I have unequally stooped shoulders from computer use [we all do today LOL], I pad them out individually and cut to account for this so I look to have an upright posture and even shoulders. Made to measure is not wrong or bad. But bespoke fits the INDIVIDUAL human, not the individual's measurements.
Hi Tom , what is the different of shoulder seam backward n forward , in normal , the front shoulder seam should a bit curve at armhole point and shoulder slope s/b lower than back , because the shoulder bone to lean forward of human being . so can't understand why the shoulder seam backward you show.
I believe it means the seam is on the bias and therefore much freer to stretch as you move your shoulder forward. This is how I cut for historical suits and the freedom of movement is exceptional.
@@piccalillipit9211 Good point I hadn't thought of that. When shoulder seams cut like that for me the coat always ends up slipping backwards off the ball of the shoulder.
*I MAKE HISTORICAL* men's suits as a hobby from the original pattern books, mostly JP Thornton's books. The suits and techniques you use are INCREDIBLY similar. I would go as far as to say that A&S started off using JP Thornton's drafting techniques and developed them. EDIT a quick look A&S started in 1906. Thornton published his books from about 1895 to 1915
I suppose tailors don't like sharing exactly how they draft a pattern, hence the silence. My search continues for a full explanation from measurements to cutting including pattern matching, padding etc.
5:39 "Nothing fits me"-maybe it's a Britishism I as a Continental not understand, but isn't that literally the point of why you'd want to make something bespoke? Either way not a good sales pitch lol
another treat! Ive been hoping for this video forever! I am not in the trade myself but really do love watching Tom working his skills and experience and what lighting speed he was!
thank you for sharing!
now I've watched it again the 7th time, I notice this gentleman is quite athletic build but the coat really hides that.
Well-done, Mr. Mahon and team!
Great video and never boring! I want another cloth video, it was such a great video to watch and your love of the fabrics was a delight
I used to be in India I have been tailoring since 30 years the way you cut is amazing till now many don't know this way thank you
I think Sir, that if we had a pint together, we'd have a lot to talk about. Thank you and have a lovely weekend. Best, Tom.
Mr. Mahon! Is there any chance that we get an in depth tutorial of how to draft a suit jacket as you do, basiclly learning the rock of eye.
Thank you!
Another great video from Mr. Mahon!
I enjoy watching your videos. I hope to commission my first bespoke suit at Redmayne.
Honoured ! Best, Tom.
Really insightful. Looking forward to more videos this year
As my shoulders are quite square and and with more frontal prominence I always found any jacket where the shoulder seam was cut towards the back of the sleeve head and not to the centre of the shoulder point or even slightly forward of it; caused the coat to slip backwards off my shoulders. This may well be a balance issue though rather than that cut style..
Excellent travail
can you show us the process for actually cutting the cloth based on the pattern? That's kind of the missing step: choose cloth - take measurements - cut pattern - ?? - first fitting, etc. Thanks.
That's coming in a full video we've been working on. Best, Tom.
Wow, the jacket on the mannequin?, and the one you have on are both absolutely beautiful.
Like looking over the shoulder of an artisan!
Too kind.
Is that one of those "anderson style sleeves" you made? Where the undersleeve is almost a straight line and you tailor in the surplus underneath the armhole?
Do you have courses in drafting? These are patterns I'm very interested in
Please i have a question. Im very new to suit drafting, so i do it on paper. Are the style lines of a suit functional or just aesthetic? Do they have a purpose being where they are, or does it just look pretty?
you are very intrestion
Do they still use different shears for fabric and paper?
As a child, my mother showed me her fabric scissors and told me, under no circumstances do I use these for anything other than cutting fabric, otherwise it ruins the edge and won't cut the fabric very well, and would have to get them re-sharpened.
Mother definitely knows best! Same rules apply here. Best,
Tom.
I enjoy watching your videos, very educative.. can you explained what a crooked neck is .. thanks
One day Henry.That's quite a subject and has quite a lot to explain it fully. I'll try when I get the chance and thank you for watching. Best, Tom.
Great video! Do you have a specific pair of scissors that you use for cutting patterns?
Is the jacket on the mannequin still a "drape cut"? As in there's excess fabric across the chest to give both volume and shape in contraste to close cut?
Hi Tom, what cloth did you use to make the sports coat you’re wearing ?
Hello, Thats a Fox Bros gun club. Thanks for watching. Best, Tom.
Do people wear tweed clothing for salmon or trout fishing anymore?
Not enough ;)
@@savilerowtales Well, I am sorry to hear that and say that as an American. Love your channel!
Is there no good software for this? Enter measurements, and some forulas for styles/adjustments, and then it creates the pattern based on a set of heuristics?
The answer is yes and NO. You can plug numbers into a computer and it prints a pattern, this is what made to measure on the internet does. But this is _bespoke_ and that means it fits every single detail of the person.
For example, I have an anterior pelvic tilt, my pelvic slants forward, a computer-drafted pair of trousers can not account for this, I can when I draft them.
I have unequally stooped shoulders from computer use [we all do today LOL], I pad them out individually and cut to account for this so I look to have an upright posture and even shoulders.
Made to measure is not wrong or bad. But bespoke fits the INDIVIDUAL human, not the individual's measurements.
Hi Tom , what is the different of shoulder seam backward n forward , in normal , the front shoulder seam should a bit curve at armhole point and shoulder slope s/b lower than back , because the shoulder bone to lean forward of human being . so can't understand why the shoulder seam backward you show.
I believe it means the seam is on the bias and therefore much freer to stretch as you move your shoulder forward. This is how I cut for historical suits and the freedom of movement is exceptional.
@@piccalillipit9211 Good point I hadn't thought of that. When shoulder seams cut like that for me the coat always ends up slipping backwards off the ball of the shoulder.
@@allanpennington I have no idea why it should do that...???
@@piccalillipit9211 Probably a balance issue between from and back panels. And I have very square shoulders with slight front prominence.
*I MAKE HISTORICAL* men's suits as a hobby from the original pattern books, mostly JP Thornton's books. The suits and techniques you use are INCREDIBLY similar.
I would go as far as to say that A&S started off using JP Thornton's drafting techniques and developed them.
EDIT a quick look A&S started in 1906. Thornton published his books from about 1895 to 1915
I suppose tailors don't like sharing exactly how they draft a pattern, hence the silence. My search continues for a full explanation from measurements to cutting including pattern matching, padding etc.
I don't mind sharing at all and I often do. Problem is we're busy making suits. Have a great weekend and thank you for watching. Best, Tom.
Rory duffy has an online course on vimeo i think his style is also british probably not as soft and offers some online books on cutting
5:39 "Nothing fits me"-maybe it's a Britishism I as a Continental not understand, but isn't that literally the point of why you'd want to make something bespoke?
Either way not a good sales pitch lol