For anyone wondering about doing rust repairs but aren't sure about welding sheetmetal - there's a pretty steep learning curve and it's going to be frustrating at the start, but you can do it with some perseverance and time commitment. One of your best resources is good old TH-cam - aside from this channel, Trev's Blog is excellent for how-to videos on rust repair, and there are plenty of others. Your next best resource is having someone to give advice, preferably in person, but photos and messages can work just fine too. Just have a crack, you might surprise yourself ☺
@@TheNuggetProject awww, man I'm happy that I could help. I've got so many hours of free entertainment from your channel - it's nice to be able to give something back!
@@jeffgray3863 haha yeah it's the perfect type of cardboard for doing this, with my money saving and attempt not to get fat as I hit middle age I'm taking those things to work so plenty of boxes for CAD work ;)
For the brake master, what you're trying to stop is the master twisting upwards when you brake heavily. Just plating the firewall won't fix that issue, just transfer it to the next weakest point outside of the reinforcement. You really need a bracket tied to a solid point on the car, down below the centreline of the master or booster to try and minimise that twist. I'd consider making a plate/bracket that goes from the two studs holding the master cylinder to the booster, down to the body or even chassis rail below it. You can make it a bolt in part if it makes access to those brake lines awkward.
Yeah for sure bud, as I said in the vid I'll see how much if a problem it is in reality once I get it in track, any bracket from here won't be masivley structural so can be done after paint :)
Its common in cars being prepped for track work that the master cylinder fire wall mount flex's. A very common and effect fix is to ad an 6061 aluminum plate for the cylinders to mount to. Go the K24a3 engine combine, you won't look back.
@@wilko3sgem yeah cool, we'll see how my fix goes. And na no k24 for a few reasons, reasons not everyone will agree with but then they can go put that engine in their own car :)
@@WarCry389 yeah it's cool hey! I really struggled to find much on it but the old owner found that chart on an old forum, I confirmed it on a website later one where it said my car was built in August 1984, pretty cool :)
The brace for the brake master cylinder actually makes a huge difference. I think I paid $100 usd. Well worth it. The flex in the firewall just makes some squish in the pedal feel. It’s not actually a failure point.
Your rear center mount has been changed or I should say updated from the original mount. Toyota had an update that changed the mount to the manual type which included the bracket that bolts to the trans (don't throw it out). The firewall has a padding sandwiched between the front and inner sheet metal for sound insulation, be careful welding on the firewall. Most of the problems related to the firewall flex/cracking appears to be not enough maintenance to the actual brake system itself. Reduce the master cyl size for less pedal effort but the trade off is more pedal travel. I remember my standard brakes in my MR2 were way better than my late hilux.
yeah the mounts are from Neil in Wales off an NA manual car, as my car was an auto the mounts won't work with my new gearbox, worst case scenerio if they don't line up i just cut and weld :)
For anyone wondering about doing rust repairs but aren't sure about welding sheetmetal - there's a pretty steep learning curve and it's going to be frustrating at the start, but you can do it with some perseverance and time commitment. One of your best resources is good old TH-cam - aside from this channel, Trev's Blog is excellent for how-to videos on rust repair, and there are plenty of others. Your next best resource is having someone to give advice, preferably in person, but photos and messages can work just fine too.
Just have a crack, you might surprise yourself ☺
@@seanalexander9531 and you were one of the legends who gave me lots of advice, thankyou!
@@TheNuggetProject awww, man I'm happy that I could help. I've got so many hours of free entertainment from your channel - it's nice to be able to give something back!
should i remove fuel cell/tank first before rust repair :P?
The enemy is gone. Can’t wait to see this finished, you have definitely saved it.
@@mattrogers1902 thanks mate! Yup a tonne of work but there is a pinhole of light at the end of the tunnel now!
You did it ya mad dawg! :D
Well done mate!
Thanks legend!
this has been a massive job mate. well done so far
@@smithracingexcel929 thanks legend! We're getting there slowly :)
Lean Cuisine box for the C.A.D templates.
Keeping the MR2 under weight George Russell style 👍🏻
@@jeffgray3863 haha yeah it's the perfect type of cardboard for doing this, with my money saving and attempt not to get fat as I hit middle age I'm taking those things to work so plenty of boxes for CAD work ;)
For the brake master, what you're trying to stop is the master twisting upwards when you brake heavily. Just plating the firewall won't fix that issue, just transfer it to the next weakest point outside of the reinforcement. You really need a bracket tied to a solid point on the car, down below the centreline of the master or booster to try and minimise that twist. I'd consider making a plate/bracket that goes from the two studs holding the master cylinder to the booster, down to the body or even chassis rail below it. You can make it a bolt in part if it makes access to those brake lines awkward.
Yeah for sure bud, as I said in the vid I'll see how much if a problem it is in reality once I get it in track, any bracket from here won't be masivley structural so can be done after paint :)
Well done.
Thanks legend!
Its common in cars being prepped for track work that the master cylinder fire wall mount flex's. A very common and effect fix is to ad an 6061 aluminum plate for the cylinders to mount to. Go the K24a3 engine combine, you won't look back.
@@wilko3sgem yeah cool, we'll see how my fix goes. And na no k24 for a few reasons, reasons not everyone will agree with but then they can go put that engine in their own car :)
The year chart topic was very interesting! Mine is 12031 so it was built in January 1985. Cool fact!😮
@@WarCry389 yeah it's cool hey! I really struggled to find much on it but the old owner found that chart on an old forum, I confirmed it on a website later one where it said my car was built in August 1984, pretty cool :)
Just found your channel. Very inspiring. Love the spirit too
@@Shredkast thanks mate appreciate it :)
The brace for the brake master cylinder actually makes a huge difference. I think I paid $100 usd. Well worth it.
The flex in the firewall just makes some squish in the pedal feel. It’s not actually a failure point.
@@basedautism2283 ok good to know thanks mate :) I'll see how it feels when driving, if I need to make a bracket I'll do that after paint :)
While you're in there, make your own "Shakitto Plate".
Man I had to google that! Pretty cool and a fairly easy thing to make, I'll see how it goes but definitely something I could look at later :)
Your rear center mount has been changed or I should say updated from the original mount. Toyota had an update that changed the mount to the manual type which included the bracket that bolts to the trans (don't throw it out). The firewall has a padding sandwiched between the front and inner sheet metal for sound insulation, be careful welding on the firewall. Most of the problems related to the firewall flex/cracking appears to be not enough maintenance to the actual brake system itself. Reduce the master cyl size for less pedal effort but the trade off is more pedal travel. I remember my standard brakes in my MR2 were way better than my late hilux.
yeah the mounts are from Neil in Wales off an NA manual car, as my car was an auto the mounts won't work with my new gearbox, worst case scenerio if they don't line up i just cut and weld :)
Have you watched the RRC Restoration TH-cam channel?
@@KD88RET na I haven't mate I'll check it out :)
You could’ve heated the metal up a little bit before pounding with the hammer. It would’ve been a little easier.
yeah, i don't have a blow torch *shrug*
get your master to me Matt I have friends that used to recondition them Van
@@vannewman4777 oh awesome! Might send you the newer one when it gets here, cheers mate :)
Not sure how a LS is going to fit in there 🤷🏻♂️
Ahhhh this guy!