If you got primarily AgCl, you need to add something to reduce it to Ag, otherwise the AgCl would tend to just melt into the borax flux. I think sodium carbonate added to the borax would help with this reduction. Or you could treat the AgCl with NaOH and sugar to reduce it to Ag ahead of the heating.
If you’re familiar with AgCl you would know that is is a very sensitive compound and can decompose and be reduced into metallic silver and chlorine gas just from ultraviolet light. You can look it up on Wikipedia and figure it out pretty quickly.
@@tannerohara5973 I am familiar with it. I have converted large amounts of it to metallic silver using the NaOH, sugar method. And I have melted it directly. It does not decompose into Ag metal upon heating. If you look at the Wiki page it shows the melting and boiling points, no decomposition temperature... heat alone will not convert AgCl to Ag. Some Ag compounds will decompose into metallic silver when heated sufficiently but AgCl isn't one of them.
svenp buddy, you’re wrong. Adding additional heat to a compound that is sensitive enough to decompose from merely light, will definitely cause it to decompose. Brush up on your chemistry
svenp buddy, you’re wrong. Adding additional heat to a compound that is sensitive enough to decompose from merely light, will definitely cause it to decompose. Brush up on your chemistry
I'm pretty sure you have tin plating. I thought i had silver as well, but turned out it was tin. This was told to me by someone who worked in a factory making them. Great content though! Im always expermenting with different styles
You may had still some silver in solution. The normal way is to stripp it with nitric and sulfuric acid, after that you form silverchlorid, better with salt than with muriatic....
Nice I appreciate the video I had a question I zinc plated pennies back in the days when I was younger for a experiment do you know how I can strip zinc off of the Pennie’s without ruining or dissolving the Pennie’s ?
Great video. Could you wash the filter into a separate beaker with water and then precipitate the water. That way you don’t have the coffee filter in there and only have the silver?
My guess is about 75 to 100 grams Chapman flux would do it. Borax might have made the paper not fully burn up leaving carbon to mess it up. Probably an extra 20 minutes or so in the kiln too.
Ephesians 2:8-9 - 8 For by grace are ye saved through faith; and that not of yourselves: it is the gift of God: 9 Not of works, lest any man should boast. Jesus Christ is the only way to Heaven, there is no other way. Your good works will not get you to Heaven. You need to believe in the finished work of Jesus Christ on the cross at Calvary found in 1 Corinthians 15:1-4, it's the only gospel that saves lost souls. Ephesians 1:13, saved and sealed with the Holy Spirit of promise. Salvation is a decision to trust Jesus Christ from your heart. Are you saved? If not, today is the day of your Salvation because tomorrow is not promised. Heaven and Hell are real, literal places, there is nothing in-between. Choose your eternal destination wisely for your soul. "If the punishment must fit the crime, then hell must be telling us how bad sin really must be!!!! If we don't take hell seriously, then we don't need to take the gospel seriously." by Yankee Arnold "God's mercy ends in hell." by Peter Ruckman
Since the silver chloride is such a delicate compound, able to decompose from UV light exposure. I figured it would have no trouble breaking down in the furnace with some flux and the paper I added with it.
Wow. It wasn’t a waste of time though. Can you please contact me. I’m not computer savvy ….. I work at a scrapyard and have been collecting 1000’s of silver electrical contacts. I need advice. Thank you
I’m sorry but I’ve refined professionally 30+ years. Test with swartzer solution one drop & if it turns red or reddish/brown color. After diagnostics & tests pos for Ag. Simpley strip it with current or diluted nitric no use for any Hcl. The proposed diver goes up in solution, my friend! You never had the silver. You need to add some table salt or after filtering with water 4 times add the table salt or heavily diluted Hcl STIR STIR STIR the cottage cheese looking stuff that will be floating before settling to the bottom then pour off solution set up filtering & the cottage cheese gets dealt with very easily. cheese stuff is silver.
I am sceptical about that being silver on those bus bars. It could have been tin. Why use silver. It oxidises more than tin. Its not jewlery or flatware
Silver is the very best electricity conductor. Tin is rather poor in comparison. Gold is used for computers not because it is a better conductor but because it does not oxidize like silver and base metals. Silver is very common to find on buss bars and high power load contacts like in circuit breakers and relay contacts.
Making a profit on chemical recovery of metals depends on only three things: First: Don't waste your time fiddling with small quantities, always chemically process an absolute minimum of at least 50 kg of semi finished material. Larger batches take about the same time to process as small ones. I use a 130 liter stainless steel cooking pot, or several 90 liter plastic tubs for each batch. Second: Recycle all your chemicals. Recover everything by distillation, reverse reactions, electrowinning, electrorefining, extraction, or by other means. There are hundreds of ways to recycle all your chemicals. Zero waste is the way to go making decent money. Third: Reduce or eliminate your costs of chemicals by making what you need by yourself at home. Basic chemicals are so easy to make at no cost at all. From kitchen/garden waste I make all my HNO3 acid for free. If any chemical reaction creates NOx, this gas is always collected in a gas bag and converted back to Nitric acid. From gypsum/rubber waste I extract the sulfur for conversion to H2SO4 acid. My anaerobic digesters supply me with all the free gas needed to heat up chemical reactions. A byproduct from my anaerobic digesters is H2S which is converted into elementary sulfur, to be used later to make SO2 for precipitation of Gold. From electric wires with PVC insulation the chlorine is recovered and later converted into free HCl acid. This is a bit tricky operation as not only the correct temperature is critical for a successful outcome, but it's absolutely necessary to include an absorber capable of catching the Chlorine to avoid creation of any Dioxin. This process is done in one of my four homemade pyrolysis units; the one made of acid resistant stainless steel. The yield is: Chlorine (used for dissolving Platinum Group metals (The Six Sisters) or conversion to HCl acid, pure copper threads (from which the connectors are easily pulled of so all the copper is recovered, and the ones with gold plating collected for later gold recovery), connectors/plugs (mostly Brass), and Raw Pyrolysis Oil. The latter is refined afterwards and cracked into free petrol/gasoline for my car, free diesel for my truck, and free fuel oil for my metal melting furnace as well as for heating my workshop at no cost. The source of fuel is free waste wood, but an "adjustable" (i.e. removable) fire chamber is required in order to maintain the right temperature inside the reaction chamber. Warning: The insulation on older wires (and also older PVC plastic in general) contains poisonous lead compounds, and sometimes also Sb (Antimony) and even As (Arsen/Arsenic). Don't enter into this procedure unless you've acquired the full knowledge; thus knows exactly what you're doing. From PBT plastic Benzene is catalytically extracted in a two stage process. Some PET plastic is also used now and then, if it's too contaminated/dirty to be sold for recycling. Benzene is a very useful chemical for various upgrading processes, and for Solvent Extraction from liquid solutions, fx. when dealing with valuable Rare Earth Elements (REEs). Caution: Handling Benzene requires full PPE, especially respiratory protection using an approved gas mask, as Benzene is extremely carcinogenic. From chemically depopulated Printed Circuit Boards, as well as the waste plastic components from e-waste/WEEE containing Fire Retardants the Bromine is extracted, to be used for gold recovery. Again, a chemical obtained at no cost. From xxxxx. No this is enough for now; otherwise the list could go on for 50 more chemicals. I'm a full time scrapper/metal refiner working at home, with 12 years of experience. In my garden shed I make around US$ 250,000 a year. In a profitable way I recover all silver plating on any kind of metal scrap with Sulfuric acid and a splash of Nitric acid, all at no cost. Even copper plating on iron scrap is recovered with Nitric acid; of course using free homemade HNO3. Finally, I use huge quantities of distilled water every month. All is homemade at no cost, by utilization of the waste heat from my pyrolysis units and my metal melting furnace.
@@ScrapFatherScrapSon. I work hard for 10 months every year. Then, in the harsh winter, I go to a tropical country on holiday for 1 or 2 months, enjoying Big Game fishing on the ocean from my own sportfishing boat. Videos covering the subject scrapping and/or metal recovery and metal refining achieves rather limited views. They'll never go viral (too specialized), thus despite the possible ad revenue from Google it won't be profitable. I'll make more on scrapping/recycling than spending the same time it takes to make each video. However, as I have a reasonable knowledge of the chemistry involved in streamlined and effective high volume scrapping/recycling processes I might be able to help you with tips and advices. What would you like to know?
@zero-waste hello. How do you recover Silver from silver plated items using sulfuric acid with a splash of nitric? Do you give it a bath until the silver has been removed from the base metal, and then take the base metal out? Or do you dissolve the silver along with the base metal? Do you drop with copper or chloride? Thanks, I’d appreciate your help…I’ve got lots of silver plated items and am looking for better ways to remove the plating. Currently in reverse electroplating using a stainless steel cathode, 1.7v with 3a current in a distilled water bath with very weak nitric acid. It works, but it leaves behind patches of silver and it takes super long.
@@stuffshop4883. The advantage of using a solution of 30% H2SO4 with an addition of a little HNO3 is that the Sulfuric creates a thin passivation layer on copper, thus the Nitric dissolves the Silver but almost no Copper. It must be done cold (or slightly varm) as hot Sulfuric will dissolve Copper. When processing larger batches, you just add a few ml of Nitric if the reaction slows down due to the Nitric being consumed. As soon as the Silver is dissolved you remove the bare copper from the reaction vessel and spray it with a little distilled water to recover any remaining Silver containing liquid. I don't have time to make videos. Take a look at this: th-cam.com/video/Y3XgN6rY3lg/w-d-xo.html . Nitric is not suited for reverse electroplating, nor is distilled water. Theoretically yes, in reality no. HCl can be used, but in connection with Silver it creates Silver Chloride complicating the process. Sulfuric is commonly used. Citric acid can also be used. The method requiring the least amount of physical work, and very little chemicals, is: Electrorefining. I melt all silver plated material (or gold/PM bearing material) and cast it into anodes. I have 42 old solar cells (came in as scrap), still capable of producing a little electricity. These are used for getting 99.99% pure copper. The bottom slimes are then processed for precious metal recovery, using only small amounts of chemicals; no need for a lot of acid to dissolve Copper. As you mention, Stainless Steel is optimal for cathodes. Low voltage and current results in a uniform layer of copper plating. Afterwards the Copper is easily removed by bending the Stainless Steel sheet slightly and peeling off the pure Copper. For both my Copper cells, and my Silver cells, I use plastic buckets. The raw cast anode is placed in the middle and the cathode is a Stainless Steel sheet going all around along the inner wall of the bucket. Most amateur refiners use a Stainless Steel bowl which acts cathode, but it makes removal of plated Copper or Silver cumbersome. Electrorefining at low voltage/current takes long time but results in nice smooth plating of Copper. In my case also with no electricity bill. Let the time work for you.
لأ اله إلا الله وحده لاشريك له الملك وله الحمد وهو على كل شيء قدير اللهم صلى وسلم وبارك على سيدنا ونبينا محمد عليه افضل الصلاة واتم التسليم استغفر الله العظيم واتوب اليه سبحانه
I’m sorry but I’ve refined professionally 30+ years. Test with swartzer solution one drop & if it turns red or reddish/brown color. After diagnostics & tests pos for Ag. Simpley strip it with current or diluted nitric no use for any Hcl. The proposed diver goes up in solution, my friend! You never had the silver. You need to add some table salt or after filtering with water 4 times add the table salt or heavily diluted Hcl STIR STIR STIR the cottage cheese looking stuff that will be floating before settling to the bottom then pour off solution set up filtering & the cottage cheese gets dealt with very easily. cheese stuff is silver.
If you got primarily AgCl, you need to add something to reduce it to Ag, otherwise the AgCl would tend to just melt into the borax flux. I think sodium carbonate added to the borax would help with this reduction. Or you could treat the AgCl with NaOH and sugar to reduce it to Ag ahead of the heating.
If you’re familiar with AgCl you would know that is is a very sensitive compound and can decompose and be reduced into metallic silver and chlorine gas just from ultraviolet light. You can look it up on Wikipedia and figure it out pretty quickly.
@@tannerohara5973 I am familiar with it. I have converted large amounts of it to metallic silver using the NaOH, sugar method. And I have melted it directly. It does not decompose into Ag metal upon heating. If you look at the Wiki page it shows the melting and boiling points, no decomposition temperature... heat alone will not convert AgCl to Ag. Some Ag compounds will decompose into metallic silver when heated sufficiently but AgCl isn't one of them.
svenp buddy, you’re wrong. Adding additional heat to a compound that is sensitive enough to decompose from merely light, will definitely cause it to decompose. Brush up on your chemistry
svenp buddy, you’re wrong. Adding additional heat to a compound that is sensitive enough to decompose from merely light, will definitely cause it to decompose. Brush up on your chemistry
Take the bus bars with plating to scrap as #2copper, use $15 to buy an ounce of silver, save acid and propane for something useful, nice video😀
I'm pretty sure you have tin plating. I thought i had silver as well, but turned out it was tin. This was told to me by someone who worked in a factory making them. Great content though! Im always expermenting with different styles
What are the molarities or N of HNO3 and HCl?
Keep producing vids, you have a great style and technique.
Just started dissolving mine, Think I put too much hydrochloric acid, im new at this but it is fizzing up so im just going to have to wait and see
How to remove iron or aluminum feom copper?
Hey. I have an alloy it contains 50%silver and 50%tin ..how can i recover silver from this
From where to get this metal??
You may had still some silver in solution. The normal way is to stripp it with nitric and sulfuric acid, after that you form silverchlorid, better with salt than with muriatic....
Nice I appreciate the video I had a question I zinc plated pennies back in the days when I was younger for a experiment do you know how I can strip zinc off of the Pennie’s without ruining or dissolving the Pennie’s ?
The core of the Pennie’s is composed zinc not the shell.
Hi, I wanted to ask you, having 100kg of silver plated copper, how much silver do you get?
Great video. Could you wash the filter into a separate beaker with water and then precipitate the water. That way you don’t have the coffee filter in there and only have the silver?
It's probably not even silver plating, it's tin or nickel.
Sir how do you know silver polish on steel pot?
Will this process work for removing lead paint from copper thanks
is the formula safe to strip nickel plating off aluminum and copper?
My guess is about 75 to 100 grams Chapman flux would do it. Borax might have made the paper not fully burn up leaving carbon to mess it up. Probably an extra 20 minutes or so in the kiln too.
Hello, How are you?
I want to remove nickel coating from copper wire
Do you have any suggestions?
Bhai bahot hard he ye me bhi try kar raha hu kyunki lal copper ka dam achcha milta he is competition me koi salah nahi deta sivay googal baba ke😂
hi m stripping silver plqted on cooper you need hno3+h2so4 2/1 ratio , nd you can get your silver by the classic method .
Where do I get those chemicals? I have several hundred pounds of copper bus that I need cleaned so that I can sell it as "clean" copper.
I need too remove the silver plating from copper wire
That's tin.
Hey
I need to remove nickel plating from copper wire?
Any suggestions?
Are brass and copper always coated with silver or is it a different metal in switches and such?
its usually coated when the copper isnt insulated
Great video. Great experiment!! I have plenty of silver plated buss bars. I’m thinking they are Tin plated now. 😢
Great video. I tried this and my end product ended up not removing the silver, but coating everything in copper. What did I do wrong?
Ephesians 2:8-9 - 8 For by grace are ye saved through faith; and that not of yourselves: it is the gift of God: 9 Not of works, lest any man should boast.
Jesus Christ is the only way to Heaven, there is no other way. Your good works will not get you to Heaven. You need to believe in the finished work of Jesus Christ on the cross at Calvary found in 1 Corinthians 15:1-4, it's the only gospel that saves lost souls.
Ephesians 1:13, saved and sealed with the Holy Spirit of promise.
Salvation is a decision to trust Jesus Christ from your heart. Are you saved? If not, today is the day of your Salvation because tomorrow is not promised.
Heaven and Hell are real, literal places, there is nothing in-between. Choose your eternal destination wisely for your soul.
"If the punishment must fit the crime, then hell must be telling us how bad sin really must be!!!!
If we don't take hell seriously, then we don't need to take the gospel seriously." by Yankee Arnold
"God's mercy ends in hell." by Peter Ruckman
You skipped the step where you convert the silver chloride to silver. Did I miss it?
Since the silver chloride is such a delicate compound, able to decompose from UV light exposure. I figured it would have no trouble breaking down in the furnace with some flux and the paper I added with it.
That most likely is tin coating on that buss bar.
silver chloride burns off the white silver chloride needs to be converted with caustic soder to silver oxide heat that with borax should work better
Wow. It wasn’t a waste of time though. Can you please contact me. I’m not computer savvy ….. I work at a scrapyard and have been collecting 1000’s of silver electrical contacts. I need advice. Thank you
Nice video. The chemical formulas add a good quality. Looking forward to future content.
Thank you very much good sir
the matte in the video has the rest of your silver. Re smelt with flux to get the rest if you want to take the time.
john wells I actually saved all the components. I believe you’re right
Well done. Great presentation. I love it.
Looks like the bare bright is worth more
I’m sorry but I’ve refined professionally 30+ years. Test with swartzer solution one drop & if it turns red or reddish/brown color. After diagnostics & tests pos for Ag. Simpley strip it with current or diluted nitric no use for any Hcl. The proposed diver goes up in solution, my friend! You never had the silver. You need to add some table salt or after filtering with water 4 times add the table salt or heavily diluted Hcl STIR STIR STIR the cottage cheese looking stuff that will be floating before settling to the bottom then pour off solution set up filtering & the cottage cheese gets dealt with very easily. cheese stuff is silver.
3:50 someone has played BioShock
I have batter idea I everyday 400 to 500kg remove silver plating on copper and brass, aluminium, steel etc. metal, I use sulfur and naitric
Kureshi irfan Husen I cant understand that I’m sorry
I am sceptical about that being silver on those bus bars. It could have been tin. Why use silver. It oxidises more than tin. Its not jewlery or flatware
Silver is the very best electricity conductor. Tin is rather poor in comparison. Gold is used for computers not because it is a better conductor but because it does not oxidize like silver and base metals. Silver is very common to find on buss bars and high power load contacts like in circuit breakers and relay contacts.
@@johnwells1724 . Yes true. But it's very common to tin copper wires.
@@E-BikingAdventures I work in the electrical industry and it is 100% silver coated busbar
All that copper you have is worth more than that little microscopic amount of silver.
Thanks for the formula
You never dropped your precipitate..your silver is in the liquid
How do you figure?
This is true
Making a profit on chemical recovery of metals depends on only three things:
First: Don't waste your time fiddling with small quantities, always chemically process an absolute minimum of at least 50 kg of semi finished material. Larger batches take about the same time to process as small ones. I use a 130 liter stainless steel cooking pot, or several 90 liter plastic tubs for each batch.
Second: Recycle all your chemicals. Recover everything by distillation, reverse reactions, electrowinning, electrorefining, extraction, or by other means. There are hundreds of ways to recycle all your chemicals. Zero waste is the way to go making decent money.
Third: Reduce or eliminate your costs of chemicals by making what you need by yourself at home. Basic chemicals are so easy to make at no cost at all.
From kitchen/garden waste I make all my HNO3 acid for free. If any chemical reaction creates NOx, this gas is always collected in a gas bag and converted back to Nitric acid.
From gypsum/rubber waste I extract the sulfur for conversion to H2SO4 acid. My anaerobic digesters supply me with all the free gas needed to heat up chemical reactions. A byproduct from my anaerobic digesters is H2S which is converted into elementary sulfur, to be used later to make SO2 for precipitation of Gold.
From electric wires with PVC insulation the chlorine is recovered and later converted into free HCl acid. This is a bit tricky operation as not only the correct temperature is critical for a successful outcome, but it's absolutely necessary to include an absorber capable of catching the Chlorine to avoid creation of any Dioxin. This process is done in one of my four homemade pyrolysis units; the one made of acid resistant stainless steel. The yield is: Chlorine (used for dissolving Platinum Group metals (The Six Sisters) or conversion to HCl acid, pure copper threads (from which the connectors are easily pulled of so all the copper is recovered, and the ones with gold plating collected for later gold recovery), connectors/plugs (mostly Brass), and Raw Pyrolysis Oil. The latter is refined afterwards and cracked into free petrol/gasoline for my car, free diesel for my truck, and free fuel oil for my metal melting furnace as well as for heating my workshop at no cost. The source of fuel is free waste wood, but an "adjustable" (i.e. removable) fire chamber is required in order to maintain the right temperature inside the reaction chamber.
Warning: The insulation on older wires (and also older PVC plastic in general) contains poisonous lead compounds, and sometimes also Sb (Antimony) and even As (Arsen/Arsenic). Don't enter into this procedure unless you've acquired the full knowledge; thus knows exactly what you're doing.
From PBT plastic Benzene is catalytically extracted in a two stage process. Some PET plastic is also used now and then, if it's too contaminated/dirty to be sold for recycling. Benzene is a very useful chemical for various upgrading processes, and for Solvent Extraction from liquid solutions, fx. when dealing with valuable Rare Earth Elements (REEs). Caution: Handling Benzene requires full PPE, especially respiratory protection using an approved gas mask, as Benzene is extremely carcinogenic.
From chemically depopulated Printed Circuit Boards, as well as the waste plastic components from e-waste/WEEE containing Fire Retardants the Bromine is extracted, to be used for gold recovery. Again, a chemical obtained at no cost.
From xxxxx. No this is enough for now; otherwise the list could go on for 50 more chemicals.
I'm a full time scrapper/metal refiner working at home, with 12 years of experience. In my garden shed I make around US$ 250,000 a year. In a profitable way I recover all silver plating on any kind of metal scrap with Sulfuric acid and a splash of Nitric acid, all at no cost. Even copper plating on iron scrap is recovered with Nitric acid; of course using free homemade HNO3.
Finally, I use huge quantities of distilled water every month. All is homemade at no cost, by utilization of the waste heat from my pyrolysis units and my metal melting furnace.
So why do you not make videos of all of this? Or do you have another channel? Would bring a lot of viewers
And if your not worried about viewership, well it would help a tremendous amount of home refiners.
@@ScrapFatherScrapSon. I work hard for 10 months every year. Then, in the harsh winter, I go to a tropical country on holiday for 1 or 2 months, enjoying Big Game fishing on the ocean from my own sportfishing boat.
Videos covering the subject scrapping and/or metal recovery and metal refining achieves rather limited views. They'll never go viral (too specialized), thus despite the possible ad revenue from Google it won't be profitable. I'll make more on scrapping/recycling than spending the same time it takes to make each video.
However, as I have a reasonable knowledge of the chemistry involved in streamlined and effective high volume scrapping/recycling processes I might be able to help you with tips and advices.
What would you like to know?
@zero-waste hello.
How do you recover Silver from silver plated items using sulfuric acid with a splash of nitric?
Do you give it a bath until the silver has been removed from the base metal, and then take the base metal out? Or do you dissolve the silver along with the base metal?
Do you drop with copper or chloride?
Thanks, I’d appreciate your help…I’ve got lots of silver plated items and am looking for better ways to remove the plating.
Currently in reverse electroplating using a stainless steel cathode, 1.7v with 3a current in a distilled water bath with very weak nitric acid. It works, but it leaves behind patches of silver and it takes super long.
@@stuffshop4883. The advantage of using a solution of 30% H2SO4 with an addition of a little HNO3 is that the Sulfuric creates a thin passivation layer on copper, thus the Nitric dissolves the Silver but almost no Copper. It must be done cold (or slightly varm) as hot Sulfuric will dissolve Copper. When processing larger batches, you just add a few ml of Nitric if the reaction slows down due to the Nitric being consumed. As soon as the Silver is dissolved you remove the bare copper from the reaction vessel and spray it with a little distilled water to recover any remaining Silver containing liquid.
I don't have time to make videos. Take a look at this: th-cam.com/video/Y3XgN6rY3lg/w-d-xo.html .
Nitric is not suited for reverse electroplating, nor is distilled water. Theoretically yes, in reality no. HCl can be used, but in connection with Silver it creates Silver Chloride complicating the process. Sulfuric is commonly used. Citric acid can also be used.
The method requiring the least amount of physical work, and very little chemicals, is: Electrorefining. I melt all silver plated material (or gold/PM bearing material) and cast it into anodes. I have 42 old solar cells (came in as scrap), still capable of producing a little electricity. These are used for getting 99.99% pure copper. The bottom slimes are then processed for precious metal recovery, using only small amounts of chemicals; no need for a lot of acid to dissolve Copper.
As you mention, Stainless Steel is optimal for cathodes. Low voltage and current results in a uniform layer of copper plating. Afterwards the Copper is easily removed by bending the Stainless Steel sheet slightly and peeling off the pure Copper. For both my Copper cells, and my Silver cells, I use plastic buckets. The raw cast anode is placed in the middle and the cathode is a Stainless Steel sheet going all around along the inner wall of the bucket. Most amateur refiners use a Stainless Steel bowl which acts cathode, but it makes removal of plated Copper or Silver cumbersome.
Electrorefining at low voltage/current takes long time but results in nice smooth plating of Copper. In my case also with no electricity bill. Let the time work for you.
Great video! Thanks for sharing!
Joe Estes thanks! I really appreciate it.
Thank God you had some copper there.
Awesome
Kudos
mi sa che hai sbagliato qualcosa....
cool
👍👍
لأ اله إلا الله وحده لاشريك له الملك وله الحمد وهو على كل شيء قدير
اللهم صلى وسلم وبارك على سيدنا ونبينا محمد عليه افضل الصلاة واتم التسليم
استغفر الله العظيم واتوب اليه سبحانه
For that money what you spent on this you’ll be buy a lot more silver
Romas the Explorer yeah you’re definitely right. Although this was scrap given to me free of charge so I wasn’t too concerned about it.
New subscriber. Good video
FAILURE !
not proof of concept.
A kind suggestion.
Watch some alchemy videos...
Watch some extraction videos...
Triple the amount of reading you do...
Where was the failure lol
You definitely should have gotten more silver
I’m sorry but I’ve refined professionally 30+ years. Test with swartzer solution one drop & if it turns red or reddish/brown color. After diagnostics & tests pos for Ag. Simpley strip it with current or diluted nitric no use for any Hcl. The proposed diver goes up in solution, my friend! You never had the silver. You need to add some table salt or after filtering with water 4 times add the table salt or heavily diluted Hcl STIR STIR STIR the cottage cheese looking stuff that will be floating before settling to the bottom then pour off solution set up filtering & the cottage cheese gets dealt with very easily. cheese stuff is silver.