Quick tip for lubing cables, cut or file a groove into the tip of the chain lube bottle, one of the handiest tools you can have in the workshop. As for Avid cable discs, they specify a completely different setup procedure, where the distance between the fixed pad and the rotor is twice that of the moving pad and the rotor. No idea why, but I have found it sometimes helps with noisy brakes, something Avid have a reputation for.
That IS what she said! I just happened to setup a BB5 on a bike today! I've never tried a mechanical disc before and so far I'm impressed and it's not even bedded in yet.
I’ve been using Phil Wood hub grease on brake/shifter cables for all of my bike builds since 2010. It lasts for years and years of all-weather exposure and does not get gummy/sticky.
I love bb7s, I’ve run them on a few bikes and they’ve always been great. Hopefully they’ll be even better now I know all the tricks to setting them up too lol
Never gave it a thought that cable brakes can work on trials. Now though the on off feeling of cable brakes would work better than progressive hydros, at least for trials.
I use Avid BB5 for two reasons: keep them clean and they will work in winter salt and snow. And they are cheap. I use exactly the same method as the tech. SRAM's suggestions say the opposite and the rotor moves...lol
I wouldn't use them with anything but a genuine speed dial lever. I've seen BB7s paired with tektro levers, and the mushy feeling was horrible, and impossible to set up as they'd either drag severely, or bottom out on the handlebar. I also recommend compressionless cable outer.
lol and i have changed my bb5s to trp t4 hydraulic...cant backstand at the moment but im sure the trp will hold it...im riding a 6 years old ns bike...my bike so much different, and even my skills are so much better after watching all your content...now im a lil bit sad because there seams to be no more flog!?and just to make u smile ali...ure are so much better than danny...danny videos are funny, yours are great to learn and understand what the hack u are doing...ps:why noone else ride ns bikes these days?
Great, informative video. I had BB5 on both front and rear wheels for the last 6 years. The front brake works fine. The rear one could not properly recoil. I bought a new one. The same problem. After a few initial months the brake never properly recoiled. I had to add elastic bands to make the brake usable. New cables and cleaning changed nothing. I suspect the spring mechanism used in the brakes is strong enough for the front brake but not for the rear brake which is further away. The cable has to deal with more friction, the rear mechanism can't handle it. Changed the rear BB5 to Shimano, which works like a treat.
Hi, really useful vid! I’m fitting bb5’s at the moment to my old GT I drive and need to raise the calliper up by one washer as the top of the rotor just catches the inside top of the calliper . Could you tell me how the washers should sit on the bolt please? I’ve done what I think is best and however when I brake, the rear calliper operates and stops without me on the bike but with weight doesn’t really grab. Any ideas Thanks
I really want to put these on my MTB. I'm sick of faffing about with hydraulics.. too old and too messy ha ha.. is it possible to fit these to a 2017 orange crush ?
These brakes will bend the crap outta the rotor if they're not aligned properly. Still not sure if I am a fan. Floating rotor rivets didn't have clearance from the caliper. Maybe 180mm floating wouldn't rub. I got a shimano m375 caliper on the way thinking about just selling this one but if it's good enough for trials Im going to have to test it out first.
What makes one mechanical caliper better than another? Is it just the length of the arm? Is there any way to improve a mechanical caliper that isn't very powerful?
Best to go with what is tried and tested. BB7 is definitely the best. Shimano ones are heavy and not as good. Definitely get linear outer cables as they dont compress much and I find gear cables feel lighter to pull plus pre stretched. Not snapped one yet. These changes work wonders for vbrakes as well.
some cheaper brakes use tiny brake pads (maybe just over 1 cm surface area) that'll never stop as fast as a larger pad. a larger rotor will also help weak brakes and/or heavy riders but make sure it'll fit in your frame before you start going up in size..
BB7/5 are the best of the cable disc i have used. Although after a few downhill runs , you can overheat and destroy a bb7. wait....i do that with all brakes :)
Back the pad up until you get correct amount of grab. If it’s still grabbing too hard when the pad is adjusted all the way out, you’ll need to realign the caliper in the direction that pad moves when backing out the adjustment knob.
@@donjr.m I'm getting a set of hydraulics myself for my newer bike but moving the BB5 to my trail bike that still has V-brakes. If they still work it's worth getting use out of them if possible. It an 8 to 10 week wait for Hope brakes which is what I'm ordering. No stock at all until well into 2022 due to the pandemic.
Was close to ditching them on my wife's bike as they're awful. I'll spend a bit more time on them after watching this although I've no idea why her lever feel is so heavy.
It’s how any country that drives on the left runs the brakes, I think it’s to do with safer hand signaling when on the roads…turning right means you have the rear brake covered and it’s less likely you’ll accidentally go over the bars into oncoming traffic
Quick tip for lubing cables, cut or file a groove into the tip of the chain lube bottle, one of the handiest tools you can have in the workshop.
As for Avid cable discs, they specify a completely different setup procedure, where the distance between the fixed pad and the rotor is twice that of the moving pad and the rotor. No idea why, but I have found it sometimes helps with noisy brakes, something Avid have a reputation for.
Another winner! Even better because Avid BB5s are what I am using. Thanks, Ali and Adam!
That IS what she said! I just happened to setup a BB5 on a bike today! I've never tried a mechanical disc before and so far I'm impressed and it's not even bedded in yet.
Lol at Adam's "That's what she said" joke @8:45
Excellent tip to straighten the rotor.
I’ve been using Phil Wood hub grease on brake/shifter cables for all of my bike builds since 2010. It lasts for years and years of all-weather exposure and does not get gummy/sticky.
I love bb7s, I’ve run them on a few bikes and they’ve always been great. Hopefully they’ll be even better now I know all the tricks to setting them up too lol
Can you do one for me for Maguras? Still not learnt! :-(
Plus Plus , an excellent rider and an excellent mechanic .
Many smart tips here. Cheers m8!
Never gave it a thought that cable brakes can work on trials. Now though the on off feeling of cable brakes would work better than progressive hydros, at least for trials.
I use Avid BB5 for two reasons: keep them clean and they will work in winter salt and snow. And they are cheap. I use exactly the same method as the tech. SRAM's suggestions say the opposite and the rotor moves...lol
It also helps that you have SD7 levers!
I wouldn't use them with anything but a genuine speed dial lever. I've seen BB7s paired with tektro levers, and the mushy feeling was horrible, and impossible to set up as they'd either drag severely, or bottom out on the handlebar. I also recommend compressionless cable outer.
lol and i have changed my bb5s to trp t4 hydraulic...cant backstand at the moment but im sure the trp will hold it...im riding a 6 years old ns bike...my bike so much different, and even my skills are so much better after watching all your content...now im a lil bit sad because there seams to be no more flog!?and just to make u smile ali...ure are so much better than danny...danny videos are funny, yours are great to learn and understand what the hack u are doing...ps:why noone else ride ns bikes these days?
Great, informative video. I had BB5 on both front and rear wheels for the last 6 years. The front brake works fine. The rear one could not properly recoil. I bought a new one. The same problem. After a few initial months the brake never properly recoiled. I had to add elastic bands to make the brake usable. New cables and cleaning changed nothing. I suspect the spring mechanism used in the brakes is strong enough for the front brake but not for the rear brake which is further away. The cable has to deal with more friction, the rear mechanism can't handle it. Changed the rear BB5 to Shimano, which works like a treat.
It's not the cable, it's the levers,and the spring in the break caliper, that gives a good feeling breaking 😅
Greetings from Croatia 😎
I have a friend that has the BB5's with the stock 160mm rotors, he wants to upsize to a 180mm rotor. Do you know which adaptor we will need?
probably work better than guides
Hi, really useful vid! I’m fitting bb5’s at the moment to my old GT I drive and need to raise the calliper up by one washer as the top of the rotor just catches the inside top of the calliper . Could you tell me how the washers should sit on the bolt please? I’ve done what I think is best and however when I brake, the rear calliper operates and stops without me on the bike but with weight doesn’t really grab. Any ideas Thanks
Why did you go for BB5 & not the BB7? It has pad adjustment on both sides.
I really want to put these on my MTB. I'm sick of faffing about with hydraulics.. too old and too messy ha ha.. is it possible to fit these to a 2017 orange crush ?
These brakes will bend the crap outta the rotor if they're not aligned properly. Still not sure if I am a fan. Floating rotor rivets didn't have clearance from the caliper. Maybe 180mm floating wouldn't rub. I got a shimano m375 caliper on the way thinking about just selling this one but if it's good enough for trials Im going to have to test it out first.
I just bougt an Inspired Flow trials bike.
It comes with these brakes installed.
(Avid BB5)
Should I leave them or should I get some Maguras?
Try them first. If you like them, keep them. Otherwise upgrade to the Maguras.
What makes one mechanical caliper better than another? Is it just the length of the arm? Is there any way to improve a mechanical caliper that isn't very powerful?
Best to go with what is tried and tested. BB7 is definitely the best. Shimano ones are heavy and not as good.
Definitely get linear outer cables as they dont compress much and I find gear cables feel lighter to pull plus pre stretched. Not snapped one yet. These changes work wonders for vbrakes as well.
Any brake will work better with new pads!
some cheaper brakes use tiny brake pads (maybe just over 1 cm surface area) that'll never stop as fast as a larger pad. a larger rotor will also help weak brakes and/or heavy riders but make sure it'll fit in your frame before you start going up in size..
Linear pull cable housings help a lot with power. If anybody has tips to prevent the bb7 pad adjust from backing out please share it!
Is this video from the original build of the bike or the fix for the recent slipping brake?
BB7/5 are the best of the cable disc i have used. Although after a few downhill runs , you can overheat and destroy a bb7. wait....i do that with all brakes :)
Can anyone help me? I have a BB5 but can’t get my brakes to have good modulation. It’s super grabby/sticky, a slight tap it can lock the brakes :(
Back the pad up until you get correct amount of grab. If it’s still grabbing too hard when the pad is adjusted all the way out, you’ll need to realign the caliper in the direction that pad moves when backing out the adjustment knob.
@@Assimilator702 appreciate the reply! I switched to hydros
@@donjr.m I'm getting a set of hydraulics myself for my newer bike but moving the BB5 to my trail bike that still has V-brakes. If they still work it's worth getting use out of them if possible. It an 8 to 10 week wait for Hope brakes which is what I'm ordering. No stock at all until well into 2022 due to the pandemic.
Was close to ditching them on my wife's bike as they're awful. I'll spend a bit more time on them after watching this although I've no idea why her lever feel is so heavy.
TIL: There is a brake that articulates. Cool.
Why in the world wouldn't the front cable be run thru the stem? Seems suicidal to have it flopping around the front like 1970's bmx or a road bike
Bb5 x tx805?
Where's... The seat go?
in 2007 i bought a hope mono mini trial front brake, and no metter what i did, my bb7 were just better...
Your front wheel is quite ovalised, I don't know if you're aware of that!
Well you know what they say about ovalised wheels?
@@2nd3rd1st nope
@@judechandler5102 I don't either, I was hoping you know
poor man's Rotor chainset?
Bros before hose!
left brake lever rear brake, really?
It’s how any country that drives on the left runs the brakes, I think it’s to do with safer hand signaling when on the roads…turning right means you have the rear brake covered and it’s less likely you’ll accidentally go over the bars into oncoming traffic
@@Ali_Clarkson ok
Hope brake many ppl use