Hi from Australia. Bought my 98 klr250 in 05. Have done all services, including valves as required. Just clocked 46k. Great all round bike. Thanks for the video.
GREAT CONTENT!! I recently completed rebuilding mine after saving it from someone’s trash. It’s an 86 and is in almost brand new condition. Rebuilt inside and out. Needed Kawasaki’s factory help in finding all my parts brand new. But overseas, they are accessible. I live my bike, and it’s perfect for the trails in Maine. Wolfman luggage, happy trails rack, aeroflow windshield……there’s still a lot that can be had. Supersprox, pivotpegs, barkbusters,…….I have enough new parts as spares also to make sure I can keep it going. I DO NOT THO have your rear shock. My original was still in useable shape but I can’t think my project is complete without one. It’s on my radar! Just the perfect big brother to my 1983 KL250. Again……Great posting. Makes me happy to still hear someone celebrating these bikes! Ride safely Jason!
Great point. The KLR I think is the most comfortable bike I've owned as far as over all riding position and seat. I don't know why so many modern DS bikes mimic MX bike seats as most ppl agree they are uncomfortable, hard and narrow. I plan to do a video on the riding experience next.
Recently bought a 1999 Kawasaki KLR250 as my first road-registered motorcycle to get my licence on. Low kms on the odo too. Just a few minor things to do. Great video - incredibly helpful! A big thank you from Australia :)
A guy stopped by with an XT 250 and we were talking and we traded bikes and ran them up and down the stone road at my home and as much as I like the XT, It's too small for me and the power difference was very noticeable getting right off the KLR and onto the XT. The guy I bought the KLR off of who sold it because his new XT had come in could no longer touch the ground with both feet with my suspension upgrades though and could not start it without standing on the pegs with the stand down when he stopped by to chat as well . As a former professional mechanic I'm willing to trade the maint work for the extra git up.
@@jasongalbraith297 That's awesome - both my favourite bikes! I currently have a 1990 XT250 (but 1983 model - was re-sold in Australia in 1989/1990), but I'm in the process of selling it. I do love the XT250, but it's a dog to kick start compared to the KLR250.
Brings back sooo many ❤🔥memories! The '91 white/blue/pink spec was my first bike. Bought it while stationed in late 90s at Fort Worth Texas. Rebuilt the engine on a tarp in the living room of my studio apt. Took the MSF Basic Ridercourse Motorcycle Classes in Fort Worth at Honda. Would commute from Arlington to Ft Worth thru blistering humid summers to Icy frigid winters. Traveled all over the Trinity River 360 trails. The thing was a tractor! I then transferred to Point Mugu, North of Malibu, CA. Was living with my mom who lived 58 miles away @ the 405 & 10 freeways. It was a dream to cruise up Pacific Coast Highway in the early morn fog or cut thru some of the best mountain twisties in the world to decompress on the way home. Ended up going riding with a couple neighbors who had brand new Honda CRF450s and blew out the forks and rear shock. Gave it to my Dad who lived in Venice for Father's Day and have no idea what happened to it from there.
Oil changes are 5000 Kilometers witch is 3106 Miles 500 miles is just the first break-in change. Better to change early but 500 Miles is too frequent IMHO.
I had a 96 Barbie. Great bike. I prefer kick start since I never had an electric start bike. I lucked out and bought it from a dude who was a great mechanic and had it running perfectly. Put 2 k miles on it with no problems, Sold it to get a modern xt 250: whos biggest fault is it requires virtually no maintenance!
There is a KLR 250 page on FB, a guy in NH just put 2 nice running ones for sale up for very good prices. Under 5K for both bikes. Good buy, just keep in mind they are kick start only bikes.
I'm 6'2 so the bike feels very light and nimble to me. I can sit in the seat all but flat footed with both feet and my bike has taller, stiffer aftermarket suspension . There were no suspension changes during the KLR 250 production run that I know of. The NX is a good call but was a very rare bare here in the US. None of the NX's (250 or 650) sold very well here and I've never even seen an NX 250. It stacks up very well on paper AND has E start and 6 speed gearbox as well as liquid cooling and 4 valve DOHC. I'd love to find one but I'd be even more concerned with parts for it than the KLR even though I'm sure it shares lots of XR parts.
At 19:05 you start talking about the rear shock options. Can you share what rear shock that is in the picture (to replace stock) and/or, what other options you found that don't require modification?
Yeah the shock pictured is the replacement unit built for me by Bitubo in Italy. It cost me about $600 and requires no modification. Cogent also makes one that requires no mods. You can find the Bitubo on Ebay. You can find Cogents offerings, including front end stuff, at www.motocd.com. Both are top notch, fully rebuild able and adjustable .
Nice video. I bought my klr259 new in 89. The suspension was plush and nice it was a torque monster. Then I bought a new suzuki DR250s 1991 and it was much lighter and suspension much more serious and the power to weight ratio was much better and much quicker and nimble compared to the kLR250 just didn't make the torque the klr did
The KL 250 was a street legal 4 stroke dual sport. The IT 250 was an off road only 2 stroke "Enduro" dirt bike with a headlight . Great bike though I had one for a long time and rode the wheels off it (broke the rear axle once! ) . The KL 250 did live on as the Super Sherpa but only shared the fact it was an air cooled 4 stroke motor but it DID have E start AND a rear disc break which the KLR never got oddly enough.
Mines a 2001 and the devious owner said it is supposed to be Kawasaki green before it got painted black. I’ve been looking all over and I can’t find a picture of what my bikes supposed to look stock
2001 would have been dark hunter green plastic with a silver tank trimmed in green black and gold KLR graphics . There were some earlier ones like the opening frame of this video, that were closer to the Kawasaki bright green with actual green plastic and tank, white and blue trim but the plastics did not hold up well over time and many that are not restored are quite faded. There was also White plastic and tank with green and blue trim and variations there of all in between. There was typically one color combo per year and sometimes even they did not change for multiple years like my late 90's dark blue green bike. You can Google your year bike and search image results to find the exact combo. external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Fi0.wp.com%2Fwww.bike-urious.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2FKawasaki-KLR250-Right-Side-1.jpg%3Ffit%3D1197%252C779%26ssl%3D1&f=1&nofb=1&ipt=865bf263c6dac7e4192ce08f8af8cf55693ade07fd5dbbb2f2522fb7ea952c24&ipo=images
@@jasongalbraith297 where can i buy paint for my klr? pretty sure theyre not painted originally but it might be worth a shot anyways. mine is completely painted but underneath the chips on the radiator side cover its kawasaki green, maybe the radiator cover just got replaced at some point and all the other plastics are original
@@theburger_kingAny paint rated for plastic should work as long as you clean the plastic well. Paint needs to have flex agent or it will crack as soon as it's flexed.
21:22 are you sure the oil change is every 500miles? According to that chart it's 800km for first change, and after that every 5000km I ride mine rarely so just change every 2nd or 3rd ride (about 25hrs). Oil is cheap insurance.
Can you tell me how you are seeing that 500Km is only for the first change? I'm not seeing that notated anywhere. I'm currently doing oil every 1,500 miles which is working out to about every 6 months, with valve checks and oil filter other change (3,000 miles). I'm also using STP oil treatment with Zinc additive.
@@jasongalbraith297 If you look at the chart at 21:22, the top row mentions odometer readings of 800km, 5000km, 10,000km etc. until 30,000km Then under maintenance "operations" the dot of engine oil change is 800, 5000,10000km etc Under oil filter-replace the dots are at 800, 10000, 20000km etc. So effectively it's saying change the oil every 5000km and filter every 10,000km after 1st service. Mind you I simply change mine every 20-25hrs which corresponds to about 1500km road use. Works for me and oil and my time is cheap.
Technically you are correct. The manual says every 800Km which is closer to 497 miles. Honestly, how do you interpret the oil change schedule or are you just saying the interval in the manual is BS? I have personally been doing mine every 1,500 miles and using full synthetic oil with a Zinc additive. The oil is dirty but I blame that more on oil blow by than engine wear as my filters are clear of any metal .
Hi from Australia. Bought my 98 klr250 in 05. Have done all services, including valves as required. Just clocked 46k. Great all round bike. Thanks for the video.
Have you done an engine rebuild in that 46,000 kilometres?
GREAT CONTENT!! I recently completed rebuilding mine after saving it from someone’s trash. It’s an 86 and is in almost brand new condition. Rebuilt inside and out. Needed Kawasaki’s factory help in finding all my parts brand new. But overseas, they are accessible. I live my bike, and it’s perfect for the trails in Maine. Wolfman luggage, happy trails rack, aeroflow windshield……there’s still a lot that can be had. Supersprox, pivotpegs, barkbusters,…….I have enough new parts as spares also to make sure I can keep it going. I DO NOT THO have your rear shock. My original was still in useable shape but I can’t think my project is complete without one. It’s on my radar! Just the perfect big brother to my 1983 KL250. Again……Great posting. Makes me happy to still hear someone celebrating these bikes! Ride safely Jason!
Great documentary.
One thing that newer bikes don't have is the cush drive!
It makes KLR250 much more comfortable on the road
Great point. The KLR I think is the most comfortable bike I've owned as far as over all riding position and seat. I don't know why so many modern DS bikes mimic MX bike seats as most ppl agree they are uncomfortable, hard and narrow. I plan to do a video on the riding experience next.
Recently bought a 1999 Kawasaki KLR250 as my first road-registered motorcycle to get my licence on. Low kms on the odo too. Just a few minor things to do. Great video - incredibly helpful! A big thank you from Australia :)
A guy stopped by with an XT 250 and we were talking and we traded bikes and ran them up and down the stone road at my home and as much as I like the XT, It's too small for me and the power difference was very noticeable getting right off the KLR and onto the XT. The guy I bought the KLR off of who sold it because his new XT had come in could no longer touch the ground with both feet with my suspension upgrades though and could not start it without standing on the pegs with the stand down when he stopped by to chat as well . As a former professional mechanic I'm willing to trade the maint work for the extra git up.
@@jasongalbraith297 That's awesome - both my favourite bikes! I currently have a 1990 XT250 (but 1983 model - was re-sold in Australia in 1989/1990), but I'm in the process of selling it. I do love the XT250, but it's a dog to kick start compared to the KLR250.
Brings back sooo many ❤🔥memories! The '91 white/blue/pink spec was my first bike. Bought it while stationed in late 90s at Fort Worth Texas. Rebuilt the engine on a tarp in the living room of my studio apt. Took the MSF Basic Ridercourse Motorcycle Classes in Fort Worth at Honda. Would commute from Arlington to Ft Worth thru blistering humid summers to Icy frigid winters. Traveled all over the Trinity River 360 trails. The thing was a tractor! I then transferred to Point Mugu, North of Malibu, CA. Was living with my mom who lived 58 miles away @ the 405 & 10 freeways. It was a dream to cruise up Pacific Coast Highway in the early morn fog or cut thru some of the best mountain twisties in the world to decompress on the way home. Ended up going riding with a couple neighbors who had brand new Honda CRF450s and blew out the forks and rear shock. Gave it to my Dad who lived in Venice for Father's Day and have no idea what happened to it from there.
Oil changes are 5000 Kilometers witch is 3106 Miles 500 miles is just the first break-in change. Better to change early but 500 Miles is too frequent IMHO.
That's interesting. Makes a lot more scene .
I just picked my first bike up, 1997 Kawasaki KLR 250. Really excited
Really enjoying your content! Thank you for the new video!
Very nice. I’m restoring a 2004 KLR250
Good info! Thanks Jason!
I have had my KLR 250 for over 10 years.. It shares some of the same tech that is in the GPZ series and the rare ZL series
I had a 96 Barbie. Great bike. I prefer kick start since I never had an electric start bike. I lucked out and bought it from a dude who was a great mechanic and had it running perfectly. Put 2 k miles on it with no problems, Sold it to get a modern xt 250: whos biggest fault is it requires virtually no maintenance!
there is one in my area with only 3k miles, white plastics are a bit yellowish...seller is asking $3.5k
I ride a 650 and have been looking for 2 good condition 250s for my wife and grandson.
There is a KLR 250 page on FB, a guy in NH just put 2 nice running ones for sale up for very good prices. Under 5K for both bikes. Good buy, just keep in mind they are kick start only bikes.
Does the bike "feel" light? Do the 2000s versions have better suspension ? Also Honda NX250 is a comparable bike from the same era.
I'm 6'2 so the bike feels very light and nimble to me. I can sit in the seat all but flat footed with both feet and my bike has taller, stiffer aftermarket suspension . There were no suspension changes during the KLR 250 production run that I know of. The NX is a good call but was a very rare bare here in the US. None of the NX's (250 or 650) sold very well here and I've never even seen an NX 250. It stacks up very well on paper AND has E start and 6 speed gearbox as well as liquid cooling and 4 valve DOHC. I'd love to find one but I'd be even more concerned with parts for it than the KLR even though I'm sure it shares lots of XR parts.
At 19:05 you start talking about the rear shock options. Can you share what rear shock that is in the picture (to replace stock) and/or, what other options you found that don't require modification?
Yeah the shock pictured is the replacement unit built for me by Bitubo in Italy. It cost me about $600 and requires no modification. Cogent also makes one that requires no mods. You can find the Bitubo on Ebay. You can find Cogents offerings, including front end stuff, at www.motocd.com. Both are top notch, fully rebuild able and adjustable .
Nice video. I bought my klr259 new in 89. The suspension was plush and nice it was a torque monster. Then I bought a new suzuki DR250s 1991 and it was much lighter and suspension much more serious and the power to weight ratio was much better and much quicker and nimble compared to the kLR250 just didn't make the torque the klr did
The KL250 was cancelled when they saw the Yamaha IT 250.
The KL 250 was a street legal 4 stroke dual sport. The IT 250 was an off road only 2 stroke "Enduro" dirt bike with a headlight . Great bike though I had one for a long time and rode the wheels off it (broke the rear axle once! ) . The KL 250 did live on as the Super Sherpa but only shared the fact it was an air cooled 4 stroke motor but it DID have E start AND a rear disc break which the KLR never got oddly enough.
Mines a 2001 and the devious owner said it is supposed to be Kawasaki green before it got painted black. I’ve been looking all over and I can’t find a picture of what my bikes supposed to look stock
2001 would have been dark hunter green plastic with a silver tank trimmed in green black and gold KLR graphics . There were some earlier ones like the opening frame of this video, that were closer to the Kawasaki bright green with actual green plastic and tank, white and blue trim but the plastics did not hold up well over time and many that are not restored are quite faded. There was also White plastic and tank with green and blue trim and variations there of all in between. There was typically one color combo per year and sometimes even they did not change for multiple years like my late 90's dark blue green bike. You can Google your year bike and search image results to find the exact combo.
external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Fi0.wp.com%2Fwww.bike-urious.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2FKawasaki-KLR250-Right-Side-1.jpg%3Ffit%3D1197%252C779%26ssl%3D1&f=1&nofb=1&ipt=865bf263c6dac7e4192ce08f8af8cf55693ade07fd5dbbb2f2522fb7ea952c24&ipo=images
@@jasongalbraith297 man i got scammed that mfer said the plastics where original just painted 😭
@@jasongalbraith297 where can i buy paint for my klr? pretty sure theyre not painted originally but it might be worth a shot anyways. mine is completely painted but underneath the chips on the radiator side cover its kawasaki green, maybe the radiator cover just got replaced at some point and all the other plastics are original
@@theburger_kingAny paint rated for plastic should work as long as you clean the plastic well. Paint needs to have flex agent or it will crack as soon as it's flexed.
21:22 are you sure the oil change is every 500miles?
According to that chart it's 800km for first change, and after that every 5000km
I ride mine rarely so just change every 2nd or 3rd ride (about 25hrs). Oil is cheap insurance.
Can you tell me how you are seeing that 500Km is only for the first change? I'm not seeing that notated anywhere. I'm currently doing oil every 1,500 miles which is working out to about every 6 months, with valve checks and oil filter other change (3,000 miles). I'm also using STP oil treatment with Zinc additive.
@@jasongalbraith297 If you look at the chart at 21:22, the top row mentions odometer readings of 800km, 5000km, 10,000km etc. until 30,000km
Then under maintenance "operations" the dot of engine oil change is 800, 5000,10000km etc
Under oil filter-replace the dots are at 800, 10000, 20000km etc.
So effectively it's saying change the oil every 5000km and filter every 10,000km after 1st service.
Mind you I simply change mine every 20-25hrs which corresponds to about 1500km road use.
Works for me and oil and my time is cheap.
You do not change the oil every 500 miles. You're talking bollocks.
Technically you are correct. The manual says every 800Km which is closer to 497 miles. Honestly, how do you interpret the oil change schedule or are you just saying the interval in the manual is BS? I have personally been doing mine every 1,500 miles and using full synthetic oil with a Zinc additive. The oil is dirty but I blame that more on oil blow by than engine wear as my filters are clear of any metal .