Cornhole board bounce test with 1/2" versus 3/4" deck tops
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ย. 2024
- I REALIZE I EXAGERATED THE TESTING HEIGHT. You all can stop commenting and showing the world how much more intelligent at height estimation you are over me.
Testing board bounce on cornhole boards built with 3/4" plywood tops versus built with 1/2" plywood tops.
I'm not an engineer by any means. However, I am a sports enthusiast and love to play cornhole and dabble in woodworking in my spare time. For all of those struggling with a bounce (EVEN ON CONCRETE), I used 3/4 birch as the top, frame, and legs. Including 1 brace across 11" down from the bottom of hole. If you don't want to build another set, I suggest using either felt pads or weather stripping along all contact points of the ground. It will eliminate bounce and movement of the boards
Thanks for the feedback and suggestions. When I get back into the hobby I'll be sure to add this as another test setup.
Two years later I found your video because I also wanted to save weight with 1/2" plywood and 1x3 frame. Looks like there could be more bounce but if it's for recreation who cares? Both teams would be effected equally. It seems like the legs might make more of a difference so I'll use 2x4 instead of 1x3. This would be a good topic for Myth Busters if they were still around. Like most topics on the internet they get blown out of proportion.
Question for you. Do you think there would be a marked difference if you had tested on a hard surface like a driveway or sidewalk? I thinking the a surface like a lawn would absorb and lessen the bounce factor.
@MadDad, Thanks for question. As a student of statics and dynamics I can tell you the ground is part of the system and lawn would absorb more energy than a hard surface. This does not guarantee bounce though and I believe it is negligible. If you take the board out of the equation and just throw a bag, you wouldn't expect it to "bounce" off the lawn or the driveway. So that means the bounce must be occurring from the board. This would only happen if the board (as a whole or in parts) has a spring factor. In short, the board construction has the most impact on bounce.
@@wausaucornholeboards9465 Thanks for the explanation. You're reasoning makes a lot of sense.
Add a cross bar on the legs, it'll keep most air mails in.
Everybody else mentioned the need to test on concrete, but there are two different 'bounces' that get complaints. The second one is, with 1/2" tops, if the bag hits just right in the center of the board. The bag itself will sometimes take some weird bounces, kind of like a trampoline effect.
I've been making boards for years using B/BB Baltic Birch and premium pine 1x4's inset an inch from the edge of the tops, sometimes with a center brace, sometimes not, and never get appreciable bounce. Most likely because the birch I use is cabinet grade that you will only get from a lumber supplier. I always steer clear of big box birch as the plys are not uniform. Pro tip: Incorporate, find a good supplier, and you should be able to get wholesale prices.
Thanks for the hot tip and for checking out my video. Does your lumber supplier require minimum orders? I suppose it's worth a shot for me to ask around. My big box store carries BB/BC grade 3/4" Baltic Birch, but I now prefer to use 3/4" edge glued Aspen; it's precut at 2x4 and much easier to work with.
Also, are you using 1/2" or 3/4" thick for that baltic birch?
All I know is, I’ve made 2 sets of boards, identical. 1/2 deck, 1x3 sides and legs, 1 support underneath.
One set bounces way more than the other.
All things being the same on the bounds, might it be the differences in the bags (type of filling and such)?
It's the bags that bounce .
12' off the ground. maybe 7' man.
Thanks for watching, Brian. Apologies if I exaggerated the vertical distance; seems to be a habit LOL.
I'll setup the apparatus again to verify. Good eye!
I use 1/2" plywood and 1x4 frame. I put 2 braces equidistant between the frame. I've received no complaints between the casual or league players that have bought from me.
Good feedback from a fellow board maker; thank you for that and for checking out my video
Thanks for this! I was going to build my first set "strong" but heavy (3/4" & 2x). Your video has me going with 1/2" & 1x because it looks like I can save the weight while getting good play.
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching
I'm doing half inch with 4
2×4 frame with 2 1x4 support frames. They'll be heavy but I hate the bounce most boards have when you go go somewhere to play.
@@calvinrondeau8505 Thanks for watching. Are you noticing the bounce on store bought versions or handmade?
If I use 2x4s for.the frames then I use 1/2"plywood. 1x4 frames then 3/4 plywood
You should have conducted this test on a solid surface, like concrete. The ground it is sitting on is likely a much larger factor than the boards themselves. But I do agree, if you are going to be carrying your boards to different locations, 2"x4" and 3/4" plywood is much to heavy, and the lighter boards seem to perform just as good.
Bounce test on concrete seems to be a popular request; I will have to find some time to do this. Thanks for checking out my video and leaving a comment :)
I thought you want the bags to be able to slide and not just stick to the board? Am I wrong? What does bounce really mean?
My personal boards are 3/4 ply on 2 x 4 frames with double brace 16” from each end. They will bounce enough to see it and hear when on concrete and a high lofted bag. Some I have built out of half inch will bounce on grass. I think it is a combination. Doesn’t bother me as I am not a pro. So far my kids don’t gripe about the lighter boards.
I have both, a set with 1/2 was very moveable, the 3/4 top was a little better. I added a T shaped brace to the under side of 1/2 boards and then they played as good as the 3/4 top boards.
Need to test your boards on concrete. I one set or boards play ok in grass but when i put them on concrete or a firm surface they turn into a trampoline.
Interesting. How is your board constructed? Does it have a center brace on the frame and between the legs?
you need to be hitting in the center of the board. thats where the "bounce" is
on solid surface as well
hardwood floors , concrete. grass is a cushion
There is a HUGE and that is a gross understatement when talking strength of birch plywood. I have some weak ass birch in my shop that Me-Nards has in stock. Total garbage when comparing the solidity and strength of Baltic Birch. They sell 5 variations of Birch. Baltic is the ONLY ply sold that comes in 13..............yes 13 evenly spaced layers of alternating grain Birch plys. The rest have a mixture of crap for plys which means they do not behave the same with changes in moisture content whereas the Baltic is all the same just alternating grain. 13 times.........The point I am making is that 3/4 Baltic will perform differently than any other ply you may have used because it is a far superior product.
Thanks for the feedback, Jared. You're right, the Baltic Birch is the way to go. Baltic Birch is now the only plywood I am using when not using edge glued Aspen or Poplar.
@@wausaucornholeboards9465 which thickness of baltic birch do you still use? 1/2” or 3/4”?
@@jon_craftingo.o4686 for plywood I'm only stocking 1/2" B2 Birch at the moment unless special requests. My Menards only stocks 1/4" Baltic and I need to special order 1/2-3/4.
I agree with you!
Thanks for testing. A lighter set would definitely make it easier for kids to cleanup afterwards.
You are very welcome and I appreciate the comment. Thanks for watching!
I make mine out of 1/2” sanded ply, 1 x 4 select pine and I put an extra brac in the center. I’ve never had a complaint after over 100 sets sold. People tend to like mine because they are so light and no one is looking for “professional” cornhole boards. It’s usually just for a fun drinking game in the backyard. Any cornhole enthusiasts probably should not be building boards.
Over 100 sets? That's impressive! I'm also impressed at no complaints about using 1/2". How long have you been making boards?
If that is 12' off the ground your boards are not regulation size.
Thanks for watching, skycam321. Apologies if I exaggerated the vertical distance
Ok this test is useless. 3/4 decks and 2 cross braces and 1x4 frames ripped down is the correct way to build boards.
When you throw a flat bag on a 1/2" board it will bounce.... period...
According to The American Cornhole Organization rules:
1.2 ACO Approved Boards
• The playing surface has a minimum thickness of 1/2” with cross-section backing, or 3/4” with or without cross-section backing.
Am I reading that wrong or should boards by rule be 3/4" thick? Just a question, I don't know.
If you want to build boards to be used in an ACO sanctioned event then if you use 1/2" tops you will need a cross bracing under it. Otherwise 3/4" tops do not require the cross bracing. Thanks for checking out my video!
Interesting since 1/2" ply isn't a full 1/2" thick and 3/4" ply isn't a full 3/4" thick. unless you pay the big bucks.
So this video was just for your sake
I would also be very interested to see how much bounce is there on concrete. My boards bounce a little, but the bags will bounce over the hole if thrown with too high of an arch. I would love to be able to prevent that.
No way that's "about 12 feet vertical". That's an 8-foot ladder, at best. Also, would love to see how much bounce is reduced with the addition of that center support (the board you didn't use).
Thanks for watching and pointing out my exaggeration. Hope you find the video that suits your needs.