Would be curious how your assessing the true stability of the hull from the keel, forefoot, stem, & stern post ... then the remainder. The ancillary fittings and trim are good to remove, etc ... but if the core of the boat is compromised, well ... then its a challenge. Might be a good episode in order to garner the collective advice/counsel of others to help you out ... not criticize. Just an ol' surveyor (and boat restoration affectionado) thought ... all the best!!!
Thanks for weighing in. I'm not really going to be able to assess the integrity of the primary structure until I get the entire cabin gutted. You'll see it when I get to that point. What I do know is that the bottom of the stem is very rotten, and the port side planks have mostly popped the screws that secure them to the stem, so that will likely have to be completely replaced.
Hi Matt, on travels with Geordie Peter drives a wood screw into the bung, it then hits the hidden screw and that easily pushes the bung out without damaging the surrounding timbers. Great project BTW, now sub'd, respect from Scotland
Hi Scott! Thanks for watching and subscribing! I've actually tried that method of extracting bungs and have never had it work, even though countless others swear by it. Maybe I'm doing it wrong...
I have a bad feeling you're going to find more rot under the copper near the end of the sprit... but if not, your idea of cutting of that rotten tenon and fitting a hinge could work really well. A nice part of that would be that you might be able to use what's left of that cap piece to make caps that go on either side of the bowsprit . Hindsight's always 20/20, I know, but cutting that cap on either side first thing would have been a wise move. Every time I catch myself thinking "well, I can just make a new one" I have to stop and really consider the time and materials required to do that. Nice bronze lags, BTW... more of the treasure trove of good bronze you have there. Should that spar prove unworthy overall, I'd offer you my retired spruce "boomkin", but I don't think it's quite long enough (12 ft maybe?) and it has a round cross-section from end to end. Right now I'm using it to support my winter cover, but if it seems you can use it, I don't think I will need it for anything, except maybe emergency repair, but I'd rather sail temporarily with just a good inner stay and staysail than have to schlep a 12-foot spar with me. One minor criticism of the video, if I may: Less plumber's crack, please...😆 There may be a whole subset of viewers who really enjoy that, but it's not like you're desperate, LOL
I think you may be right about rot under the copper, but we'll see. As for the broken caprail piece, had I known how it was attached, I would have cut it on either side of the bowsprit, but once I started prying on it and a piece broke off there was no going back. Hindsight's 20/20, as you say. As it stands now, I'll put it back together and take it from there, but that's pretty low on the priorities list at the moment. Thanks for the offer of your retired boomkin. I certainly would never reject an offer for a free spruce spar. Even if I don't use it for Maverick, I'll be building her a dinghy at some point, and so far all I have is a main mast for that future boat. Feel free to shoot me an email. The channel email address is in the video description and on my main channel page. As for the plumbers crack.... It's not something I've ever really thought about, but now that I'm working on this boat on camera, it has become a consideration. LOL. Maybe I should get some overalls for boat work.
Thanks for commenting. I'm a bit of an unreconstructed traditionalist. While sheathing the hull in fiberglass would make maintenance less of a chore, I'm not going to do it. Wooden boats have been built and maintained without modern materials for thousands of years and I'm more than willing to commit to a bi-annual haulout schedule for bottom paint and hull maintenance. The thought of sheathing the hull below the waterline with copper has crossed my mind but it may be prohibitively expensive. Im also considering dropping the cast iron keel and encasing that in fiberglass just to isolate that big hunk of ferrous metal from the structure. We'll see.
That pulley on the bowsprit is for a downhaul for the jib. That makes it easier than going out on the bowsprit in a seaway.
Ahh. Thanks for the info!
Glas to see the improvements in your videography. You've got a long road ahead of you. You'll be a real pro by the time you finish Maverick!
Would be curious how your assessing the true stability of the hull from the keel, forefoot, stem, & stern post ... then the remainder. The ancillary fittings and trim are good to remove, etc ... but if the core of the boat is compromised, well ... then its a challenge. Might be a good episode in order to garner the collective advice/counsel of others to help you out ... not criticize. Just an ol' surveyor (and boat restoration affectionado) thought ... all the best!!!
Thanks for weighing in. I'm not really going to be able to assess the integrity of the primary structure until I get the entire cabin gutted. You'll see it when I get to that point. What I do know is that the bottom of the stem is very rotten, and the port side planks have mostly popped the screws that secure them to the stem, so that will likely have to be completely replaced.
Hi Matt, on travels with Geordie Peter drives a wood screw into the bung, it then hits the hidden screw and that easily pushes the bung out without damaging the surrounding timbers.
Great project BTW, now sub'd, respect from Scotland
Hi Scott! Thanks for watching and subscribing! I've actually tried that method of extracting bungs and have never had it work, even though countless others swear by it. Maybe I'm doing it wrong...
@@SavingMaverick55 I doubt that you're doing in wrong Matt, perhaps a little bit of TH-cam magic has been happening off camera to make it look easy 🤔
I have a bad feeling you're going to find more rot under the copper near the end of the sprit... but if not, your idea of cutting of that rotten tenon and fitting a hinge could work really well. A nice part of that would be that you might be able to use what's left of that cap piece to make caps that go on either side of the bowsprit . Hindsight's always 20/20, I know, but cutting that cap on either side first thing would have been a wise move.
Every time I catch myself thinking "well, I can just make a new one" I have to stop and really consider the time and materials required to do that.
Nice bronze lags, BTW... more of the treasure trove of good bronze you have there.
Should that spar prove unworthy overall, I'd offer you my retired spruce "boomkin", but I don't think it's quite long enough (12 ft maybe?) and it has a round cross-section from end to end. Right now I'm using it to support my winter cover, but if it seems you can use it, I don't think I will need it for anything, except maybe emergency repair, but I'd rather sail temporarily with just a good inner stay and staysail than have to schlep a 12-foot spar with me.
One minor criticism of the video, if I may: Less plumber's crack, please...😆 There may be a whole subset of viewers who really enjoy that, but it's not like you're desperate, LOL
I think you may be right about rot under the copper, but we'll see. As for the broken caprail piece, had I known how it was attached, I would have cut it on either side of the bowsprit, but once I started prying on it and a piece broke off there was no going back. Hindsight's 20/20, as you say. As it stands now, I'll put it back together and take it from there, but that's pretty low on the priorities list at the moment.
Thanks for the offer of your retired boomkin. I certainly would never reject an offer for a free spruce spar. Even if I don't use it for Maverick, I'll be building her a dinghy at some point, and so far all I have is a main mast for that future boat. Feel free to shoot me an email. The channel email address is in the video description and on my main channel page.
As for the plumbers crack.... It's not something I've ever really thought about, but now that I'm working on this boat on camera, it has become a consideration. LOL. Maybe I should get some overalls for boat work.
It might make more sense to sheath the outer hull in fiberglass and save what you can with a good supply of epoxy/filler.
Thanks for commenting. I'm a bit of an unreconstructed traditionalist. While sheathing the hull in fiberglass would make maintenance less of a chore, I'm not going to do it. Wooden boats have been built and maintained without modern materials for thousands of years and I'm more than willing to commit to a bi-annual haulout schedule for bottom paint and hull maintenance. The thought of sheathing the hull below the waterline with copper has crossed my mind but it may be prohibitively expensive. Im also considering dropping the cast iron keel and encasing that in fiberglass just to isolate that big hunk of ferrous metal from the structure. We'll see.
If you go with the hinged bow sprit then that damaged caprail hook will likely not be required.
Those "In the know" call that duct tape "200 mile an hour" tape. It makes the boat go faster!
last week you had subtitles, easier to d follow for nonamericans
I don't put subtitles in my videos. It's an automated thing TH-cam does.
perhaps you should wear overalls, too much brickies bum for me🤣
LOL. I bought a pair on Amazon last night..