If you have a good supply of old cylinder heads from cheap motorcycles to practice with. why not give it a go. You lose very little if it fails but gain a lot if you succeed. This guy has skills beyond the average shade tree mechinic.
You have good skills. You are on the right track contrary to what others may say. You just need a little theory. To de-shroud the valves, the intake is the most important. For the intake, multiply the valve diameter times .25 for the lift, this is called the curtain area between the valve face and the valve seat. Now multiply the valve diameter times .20 for the distance from one edge of the valve to the combustion chamber wall (all sides) at the lift previously calculated. The area of these two calculations are each equal to the valve area and are said to be de-shrouded. Now for the exhaust valve, about the same except we multiply the diameter times .14 (in leu of the .20 previously) for the side clearance between the edge of the valve and the combustion chamber wall. The lift is the same calculation. Now all you need to do is use your ball grinding burr to blend the combustion chamber wall between the valve seat and the new point that we have just calculated above. Not many know this and most that do are not willing to share. Now use low/flat dome pistons to achieve you compression. High dome pistons are very inefficient. Good luck and keep up the great TH-cam videos.
This is great information buddy…trying to get this guy going in the right way… you laid down the formula for a smooth flowing head!!! Will he take this information and run with it?!! Is he grinding on his own heads as I write this??? I love 2 stroke!
This is the definition of built not bought. Absolutely fantastic and very Inexpensive, this is exactly what you buy from those expensive retailers, you just don’t see how it was made.
@@MrSagerific95 Guess you were not able to read my next comment (posted 2 days before your arsine comment) I am sure you are a smart guy you can figure it out
на изготовление головки цилиндра применяют сплав алюминия и магния. напайка на него алюминия со временем отскочит ( разница в тепловом расширение). направляющие втулки клапанов и клапанные гнёзда вывалятся ( после воздействия высокой температуры произойдёт прослабление посадочного размера). ни когда так не делайте, проще осадить ниже цилиндр или головку . пробовали наваривать подобным образом электро дуговой сваркой в среде аргона ( у меня свар. стаж 26 лет, 2 диплома с личным клеймом), после мехобработки и установки крышки цилиндров двигатель ( ГАЗ-52) отработал 1 день и на второй заклинил. оборвалась наваренная часть. при тщательном осмотре на всех наваренных местах обнаружили трещины.
а напайка кастолином? знакомому несколько раз приваривали ухо генератора все равно быстро отваливалось вот интересно если бы изначально запаяли кастолином держалось бы или нет
It's great to see what can be done - in order to raise the Compression Ratio. My theory on this is very simple: When Performance goes up, Reliability comes down. Additional load on the Crankshaft / Mains / Wrist Pin / Big End Bearings. Additional engine heat that needs to be dealt with. Just buy a Bike with a bigger engine.
I wonder how many engines this guy blows up trying all this off the wall stuff. The info on how to improve performance is ready available to anyone without having to guess at what needs to be done.
30% клапанной щели упирается в стенку. Повышение степени сжатия в ущерб наполняемости. Для головок типа hemi (полусферическая) лучшее решение поршень с вытеснителем.
. Aumentar la tasa de compresión, es buena hasta cierto punto... Sobrepasar del 10, haría que el efecto sea exactamente contrario al deseado, pues puede hacer que la mezcla aire/combustible se vuelva líquida, y no gaseosa... Al convertirse en líquida esa mezcla, no se logra buena combustión, y por consiguiente no genera la suficiente explosión o fuerza de retroceso del pistón... . La tasa de compresión con el mayor efecto, está aprox al 9... Ya hemos hecho diferentes pruebas en un taller... .
for changing CR.. we usually used dome/semidome piston rather than adding the head/chamber bcs. stock piston can only hold ranging 11:5 -12 CR.. or else stock piston get easily melt/damage.. changing dome forged pistons increases CR with high durability up to maybe 16 CR .. its the safest and easiest way to modify CR.
High dome pistons can reduce power if they inhibit the flame spread. They also increase the combustion chamber surface area, which can lead to overheating of the piston crown by absorbing more heat, which in turn reduces power. As always, what is best will be a compromise.
@@Wexdue29 thats why theres flat/blank piston to create you own design not just dome.. Forge pistons are durable to withstand possible damages.. There's less damage in the crown..
На мопеде с подобным мотором FM152 (110см³) проточил плоскость головки на 1 - 1.5мм. Само собой резкого подрыва в мощности не было, чуть по увереннее в горку стал ехать.
The port design kills flow anyway so without filling it and drilling new angles, flow will be limited. We run into this in garden tractor pulling. Port design is for low compression lawn tractors that dont turn a lot of rpm. Yet, pro builder are getting 100+ hp out of 25hp kohler twins running on alcohol.
The amount of shrouding around the valve must kill the air flow. A domed piston would make more sense to me. Or instead of making an oval shape in the head make it more like a figure 8 so there is more space between the valve edges on either side and the head when the valve is open.
I thought they way they used a disc to hold it in the lathe was clever, but I totally agree with your point about shrouding, although it's possible that the valves are oversized for the engine anyway. I'd try to keep as much of the volume as close to the spark plug as possible.
@@davidwickboldt712 only if fuel with proper octane to support the compression is available. otherwise, power gains are negated by the need to reduce timing to stop detonation. remember this is a air cooled engine
@@bad406camaro it is a small bore so not as prone to detonation. Running a tight squish/quench, it should be manageable. And it may have started at low compression ratio also.
First time I’ve seen valve clearance cut out of brazing rod filler using the valve guide for alignment. I’m sure there’s a few ways of doing it and I’m not a machinist but always cool to watch one. Nice job though, checked with a mic and everything. The carbide burr on the cordless drill is also one of my favorite tools! Also the makeshift flap sander been there too
@@tomthompson7400 makes sense, centered on the center of the valve stem. Just now days all the fancy multi axis machines and all don’t seem to use that method. Like you specifically have to setup the piece in relation to the cutter rather than use something as a guide. Then again a serdi machine uses the guide so maybe I’m mixing up some cnc operations with valve seat cutting. I’d be wondering how different the characteristics of the brazing rod are from the cast aluminum. Like is that combustion chamber gonna expand at different rates because of the two different alloys?
@Water-Man I’m thinking cause some people would find it boring watching him smear brazing rod around lol! That and you can be as messy and as ugly as you wanna be then cut to when it’s semi prettied up
Me parece que sube mucho la relación de compresión por lo que genera exceso de temperatura sobretodo en un motor refrigerado por aire, pre detonación disminuyendo la vida útil del conjunto de pistón viela y cigüeñal
Yo creo que es un trabajo que se hace para competir. Se usan otros componentes y combustible aeronáutico de mayor octanaje. O directamente otros tipos de combustible aun mas especiales y raros.
No es así, hay dos formas de dar compresión en pistón o en tapa, lo que se hace en competición es darle menos volumen a la tapa y tiene 3 ventajas inmediatas más allá de la compresión, 1- aumenta el flujo de gases al tener menos volumen y de la forma que lo hicieron acá se logra el torbellino que se busca para mejor llenado del cilindro, 2 permite usar pistón con cóncavo porque no necesitas la saliente o pistón plano lo que hace que se pueda mejorar el torque ya que en el tiempo de explosión se forman dos cámaras hemisféricas y eso es potencia de empuje, osea torque. Y el 3- se puede hacer tarjas salva válvulas mucho más grandes sin comprometer la compresión y perder todo lo antes mencionado esto te da la posibilidad de usar más cruce de leva y más permanencia. Lo que se traduce en un motor súper elástico y potente en todos sus rangos de RPM. Saludos
@@marcosmateozambroni3992 interesante, todo esos beneficios con un cambio de compresión! Con razón los pequeños motores de motocicleta logran producir tanto caballage.
@@ghoulbuster1 es un conjunto de cosas, lo principal el la leva y los conductos, la relación de compresión depende mucho del desarrollo de lo antes mencionado. No siempre más rc le va a dar los resultados esperados.
i mig welded a head like this before. used a grinder to take the majority of the excess weld off, used a Dremel to reshape the chamber. then used 120-1000 grit sandpaper on glass to resurface it. my only fear is thats an overhead cam engine so when you shave the head more then a few thousandths it actually affects the timing significantly because of timing chain slack. push rod engines suffer from something similar were once you shave so much off you need to get new cut to length push rods.
its timed by the chain to crank so timing is same as before , my biggest cincern is the space for valves and mostly flow for power and airspeed , this did nither but peek compression .
@@transdetendal The timing is set by the distance between the cam and crank and how many chain pitches that ends up being. Decking the head changes that distance, retarding valve timing. To fix the timing, you'd either need to redowel the cam gear, get an adjustable gear set or do what modern auto engines do and don't even bother doweling the cam, lock the crank and cams with special tools and then just hope and pray the friction between cam and vvt phaser does not give out. How do you not know this?
@@pontiacg445 timing is what it is ,never heard of timeing changed with removing matirial to get more compression , the chain sets the time so a tight chain dosent change setting between cam and crank ! never ever had a issue with timing that way and never will unless the chain skip a tooth or break , same goes in a car engine with chain
@@transdetendal Yeah, I am well aware that you have never heard of timing being changed by decking the head, that much is obvious. That doesn't mean it's not a fact, it just means you can't comprehend it. I am sorry you are geometrically challenged... Type "timing changed decking head" into google if you wish to educate yourself.
Good job but you just shrouded your valves it will have more compression and have more bottom end power but won't flow the air on the top end just transition the valves a little more love seeing people make stuff instead of buying parts
El trabajo artesanal es hermodso, con las herramientas adecuadas, aunque debe de quedar una compresión como de 13 o 15 a 1, no tengo idea, en una moto normal de calle de fábrica de esas chinas si viene 8 a 1 o 9 a 1 es mucho, yo apenas le quitabas 1 mm as la tapa y ya subía 10 a 1 y cambiaba un montón, ni me imagino con todo ese cambio. El tema que la duración debe de ser mucho menor también a no ser que todo lo demás, bielas, pistones, etc sean forjados y de la mejor calidad. Será para arrancadas o ese tipo de carreras. Me gustaría saber para que las usan .
You know that head is based on kawasaki, Yamaha, Honda or Suzuki engine. Those manufacturers put years into flowing those heads to get maximum efficiency & horsepower. You would have been better off just shaving the head 20K, and get the Piston closer that way. Or you just could have bought a Wiseco piston with a high compression, you can choose how much compression you want. I don't know there's easier ways to do that. For sure. And you don't shroud the valves my way at all. You got the talent, you should do something cool like splitting the 5th or 6th Gear, and creating a 7th Gear. I've seen people do this before and it makes a killer transmission, like a Top Gear Overdrive. Much more worthwhile.....
You would be far better building it up on the edge of the combustion chamber and levelling it off flat, so the piston almost touches it, and leaving the area around the valves totally untouched and open. This is called a squish chamber, you get very good turbulence and flame speed,
It's called "Quench" but yes. You're right. They also fucked up and angled the spark plug at the intake valve. It needs to be angled at the exhaust valve.
Your better off getting a domed piston to raise compression. You just killed the flow around the valves, plus that nice sharp edge is just gonna cause it to detonate.
@@lorenzolanza8431 costwise obviously doing it this way is cheaper, doesnt mean its the better way of doing it. In my opinion what he did to that head isnt going to work well and will more then likely have problems with detonation/hot spots in the head which would lead to more $$$ damage. Which is why im saying, yeah it costs more, its worth just putting a domed piston in it. You'll still have the flow around the valves, and have the higher compression.
Id say context is important. With $100 budget maybe your better off spending $$ on a set of tyres or an upgraded carb, so maby variables. The question you need to answer is what would you do without access to a piston? ie would you weld a dome on the piston? would it hit the valves ? who knows, but the point fron my perspective is a bit of home budget racer performance mods which is half the fun.
Looks like someone has been watching hammer performance work on harley heads you now have a bathtub head. May reduce flow but increase low end torque. It's all in where you want to keep the h.p. at
My dad always said gas is like dynamite the more you compress it or tamp it the bigger the bang and power ! I think as other comments said dome piston would be better . But there are so manny things that can be done to get more . Like if he had the dome piston then he still could have filled in a little . Then port and polishing some dimples around the intake valve pocket . Concave intake valve head to create more vacuum to get the fuel and air in . Then undercut valve stems and a bigger lift and duration on the cam . Then hi flow exhaust and a air cleaner / filter for better flow . Then knife edge crankshaft windage add on’s then higher octane fuel . There is way more than that also so you can see what I’m saying . It’s a thing we’re you get everything you can and those 20 hp add on parts with everything working together be one 30-40 hp parts because they all complement each other and help each of the other parts to produce more !
good luck to my master, you made a nice engine top cover revision, if possible, you can share the top cover valve seat replacement in a video, that is, the valve seat replacement.
Lo que ganaste en compresión lo perdiste en flujo, las valvula queda apantallada y el caudal de aire es menor, mejor poner pistones para mas compresion, la camara de combustion es muy importante para la eficiencia volumetrica, para el efecto SWIRL y tambien ahora tienes tanto SQUISH que se frenara el motor. Todo esto lo digo no por criticar tu trabajo, sino para que lo mejores y tengas un motor mas eficiente.
Можно было избежать половины дурной работы! Просто отторцевать головку цилиндра,что подняло бы степень сжатия. Это простое техническое невежество. После такого прогрева,до оплавления,седла просто выпадут во время работ мотора.
A Câmara está errada, tem que ser o mais esférica possível, as válvulas tem que ficar expostas, e não escondidas em poços, desse jeito não vai a 9 mil giros nem com taxa de 15 por 1, essa parede em volta das válvulas bloqueia a passagem do fluxo, e os cantos vivos turbilhonam entrada e saída. O turbilhonamento são muitos rodamoinhos microscópicos, a força centrífuga nessas rotações abaixa a pressão nos centros aumentando a pressão nas bordas dos rodamoinhos ocupando a câmara impedindo mais entrada. No caso de 4 válvulas por cilindro é para reduzir a área total de turbilhonamento atrás das válvulas. Desenhe num papel para ver que tanto faz duas ou 4 válvulas em termos de perímetro total que cabe no cilindro, a diferença é que a área de duas válvulas é o dobro da área de quatro. O perímetro possível de se conseguir em quatro válvulas é o mesmo que se consegue em duas com a diferença que a área de turbilhonamento atrás de duas é o dobro da soma das áreas de quatro. Como exemplo, pra não fazer conta, suponha um cilindro quadrado com 10 cm de lado e uma única válvula quadrada com 5 cm de lado bem no centro. O perímetro em torno da válvula para admissão é 20 cm enquanto a área de turbilhonamento atrás é 5x5 = 25 cm quadrados. Agora pense em duas com 2,5 cm de lado cada. A soma dos perímetros por onde entra o fluxo vai ser os mesmos 20 cm, mas a área total atrás delas vai ser a metade, já que 2,5 x 2,5 = 6,25 mais 6,25 da outra dá 12,5 cm quadrados. Isso pra explicar que o turbilhonamento é tão sério que para reduzir inventaram 4 válvulas por cilindro. Você criou dois problemas aí, estrangulamento e turbilhonamento. Quer aumentar a taxa, faça a câmara um pouco menos convexa que a original, mas sem esses cantos vivos, e sem enterrar as válvulas.
Nice job and I want to criticize somebody who wants to do that kind of work and have it come out nice. I'm lazy, just spent 50 dollars and buy the high compression piston be done with it.
People in the comments no more the the guy in the video 🤔 maybe he should list and have it translated that way he can put out a useful video so people don't ruin there heads great comments👍👌✌️💯🇺🇸
Impressive, as a prototype, but the real one, make sure you thoroughly clean the combustion before welding. The shape of the material must follow the stream of the air, like a cone shape, because your prototype is restricting the flow. Use a canned spray to observe the result. Luka a " wet flow bench at home." This mod, together with a expansion chamber on the throttle body chamber, plus rugged intake walls will increase power without loosing down low torque. Be sure to follow the cutt on the valve guides.
Massive bump in compression. But absolutely kill air flow. I am sure he impressed his friends and even a few internet machinest. But this is a hack. valves are shrouded heavily. There is no quench. there is now a huge wall for fuel to run into and fall out if suspension. But the real question is there fuel available to support a such a big compression bump.
I play with small suzukis, Original looks just like a dr200 head, finished looks just like a GN125 head. Original would have a domed piston to make up compression, so would be swapping for a (probably larger) flat top piston. Much easier to get a flatop piston than a domed piston that works when making a big bore setup. In my case I'm swapping back to the GN head with big quench areas, but with bigger valves installed to get a usable compression ratio, the big bore kit pistons are no good for either head, and I can go much bigger with flat Honda pistons. I think he's probably got the same issues and there's no such thing as a good head available
Saya punya motor honda supra fit tpi sama mekanik sudah di rubah sudut payung klep nya pake in 28 ex 24 seher 54MM apa perlu di bikin seperti itu untuk mengejar kompresi nya
таким образом меняется не компрессия а геометрическая степень сжатия, то есть можно использовать бензин более высокого октанового числа и высокого качества. а компрессия останется прежней!!!. увеличить компрессию возможно только устранением износа поршневой и восстановлением герметичности клапанов.
adding a quench area makes more torque&power&better fuel burn as well as less fuel needed.but this guy welded it up then cut that new quench area back out...you cant fix stupid.
If you have a good supply of old cylinder heads from cheap motorcycles to practice with. why not give it a go. You lose very little if it fails but gain a lot if you succeed. This guy has skills beyond the average shade tree mechinic.
That was a beautiful finish hats off to you good folks
You have good skills. You are on the right track contrary to what others may say. You just need a little theory. To de-shroud the valves, the intake is the most important. For the intake, multiply the valve diameter times .25 for the lift, this is called the curtain area between the valve face and the valve seat. Now multiply the valve diameter times .20 for the distance from one edge of the valve to the combustion chamber wall (all sides) at the lift previously calculated. The area of these two calculations are each equal to the valve area and are said to be de-shrouded. Now for the exhaust valve, about the same except we multiply the diameter times .14 (in leu of the .20 previously) for the side clearance between the edge of the valve and the combustion chamber wall. The lift is the same calculation. Now all you need to do is use your ball grinding burr to blend the combustion chamber wall between the valve seat and the new point that we have just calculated above. Not many know this and most that do are not willing to share. Now use low/flat dome pistons to achieve you compression. High dome pistons are very inefficient. Good luck and keep up the great TH-cam videos.
This is great information buddy…trying to get this guy going in the right way… you laid down the formula for a smooth flowing head!!! Will he take this information and run with it?!! Is he grinding on his own heads as I write this??? I love 2 stroke!
In
Well aren't we smart!
Thanx buddy
Real deal tuning, the rod fill and lathe work are wizard 👌
a radius edge lathe cutting tool leaves an almost polished surface when cutting off excess aluminum great job increasing the compression ratio
This is the definition of built not bought. Absolutely fantastic and very Inexpensive, this is exactly what you buy from those expensive retailers, you just don’t see how it was made.
Actually it is the definition if hacked not though
@@bad406camaro please explain? I’m sure you have decades of experience to share with us? We can’t wait to hear it…
@@MrSagerific95 Guess you were not able to read my next comment (posted 2 days before your arsine comment) I am sure you are a smart guy you can figure it out
Yup and they don't use nothing fancy to do it either
Inexpensive like a lathe
Wow, just wow. No thought to piston squish or frame front, not to mention super shrouded valves
A new combustion camber!
Very clever and you have excellent grinder control…
на изготовление головки цилиндра применяют сплав алюминия и магния. напайка на него алюминия со временем отскочит ( разница в тепловом расширение). направляющие втулки клапанов и клапанные гнёзда вывалятся ( после воздействия высокой температуры произойдёт прослабление посадочного размера). ни когда так не делайте, проще осадить ниже цилиндр или головку . пробовали наваривать подобным образом электро дуговой сваркой в среде аргона ( у меня свар. стаж 26 лет, 2 диплома с личным клеймом), после мехобработки и установки крышки цилиндров двигатель ( ГАЗ-52) отработал 1 день и на второй заклинил. оборвалась наваренная часть. при тщательном осмотре на всех наваренных местах обнаружили трещины.
А почему тогда просто вареные ГБЦ ходят? ведь не однократно вниз появляются трещины и их заваривают.
@@opel5956 чуешь разницу? Или маленький кусочек подварить, или целый слой наварить, и разницу в нагреве при сварке.
Так у него после наплавки и обработки возле седла впускного клапана тупо раковина осталась!
Вы хороший специалист таких сейчас очень мало, очень жаль , в основном компьютерные ,,гении"
а напайка кастолином? знакомому несколько раз приваривали ухо генератора все равно быстро отваливалось вот интересно если бы изначально запаяли кастолином держалось бы или нет
Keep it Up Brother
Knowledge you are sharing to
Others
GODBLESSED
Did similar to a gs 1000 suzuki head for a speedway 3/4 midget on alcohol in 2009 - worked great @ 12.5 % compression
Dudes got talent
An engine technician who manicures. Now that's rare.
Keren bang, Channel nya di tonton sm orang luar... 👍🏼
Semangat terus ya untuk berkarya & memberi ilmu 🙏🏼
11/1 compression ratio! (excellent!)
Horsepower rules!!! Great to see budget hot rodders in India do this sort of stuff.
Indonesian
seems to me the flow in and out are pretty fuckerd up this way , all but powergains ,compression isnt all.
I wonder if they CC'ed the chamber before and after the work?
Or if they were trying to make a diesel engine?
Love that's he's just ripping a dart so natural in the man's space fuck yea buds
It's great to see what can be done - in order to raise the Compression Ratio. My theory on this is very simple: When Performance goes up, Reliability comes down. Additional load on the Crankshaft / Mains / Wrist Pin / Big End Bearings. Additional engine heat that needs to be dealt with. Just buy a Bike with a bigger engine.
I wonder how many engines this guy blows up trying all this off the wall stuff. The info on how to improve performance is ready available to anyone without having to guess at what needs to be done.
30% клапанной щели упирается в стенку. Повышение степени сжатия в ущерб наполняемости. Для головок типа hemi (полусферическая) лучшее решение поршень с вытеснителем.
У паков ты с голоду сдохнешь, умный такой. Впрочем и у нас есть чюдики полирующие коллектор изнутри...
@@dmitriivoevodin404 Вы сами поняли что написали? И где это я про полировку каналов упомянул. А свои пожелания о голодной смерти оставьте себе.
Лучше б турбину установил.
How precise are these measurements. This is the way we worked after WWII
Like another commitment said: get/ make a domed piston.
I like the way you have done it though
grate work guys port and polish the intake and exhaust as well.
Thanks!
Thank you sir, I hope you are always given health and happiness 🙏
昔トヨタのLASREヘッドの燃焼室をこんな風に削った事がありました。
何か懐かしいな。
街工場でこんな事が容易くできるなんて、凄いですね、すごい技術です。
Assalualaikum ikut nyimak nambah elmu sulses slalu🙏👍👍👍😀
Excelente trabajo maestro saludo desde Ica Peru
.
Aumentar la tasa de compresión, es buena hasta cierto punto...
Sobrepasar del 10, haría que el efecto sea exactamente contrario al deseado, pues puede hacer que la mezcla aire/combustible se vuelva líquida, y no gaseosa...
Al convertirse en líquida esa mezcla, no se logra buena combustión, y por consiguiente no genera la suficiente explosión o fuerza de retroceso del pistón...
.
La tasa de compresión con el mayor efecto, está aprox al 9... Ya hemos hecho diferentes pruebas en un taller...
.
У меня 12 в атмосферном двигателе по заводу
Depende de cuanto aire tenga el cilindro, lo importante es comprimir aire no el combustible.
Hadir nyimak boss ku suksesselalu buatbossku 👍👍💪💪💪💪
Wow...Superb Craftsman skill...
Very nice work, 👍
for changing CR.. we usually used dome/semidome piston rather than adding the head/chamber bcs. stock piston can only hold ranging 11:5 -12 CR.. or else stock piston get easily melt/damage.. changing dome forged pistons increases CR with high durability up to maybe 16 CR .. its the safest and easiest way to modify CR.
High dome pistons can reduce power if they inhibit the flame spread. They also increase the combustion chamber surface area, which can lead to overheating of the piston crown by absorbing more heat, which in turn reduces power. As always, what is best will be a compromise.
@@Wexdue29 thats why theres flat/blank piston to create you own design not just dome.. Forge pistons are durable to withstand possible damages.. There's less damage in the crown..
На мопеде с подобным мотором FM152 (110см³) проточил плоскость головки на 1 - 1.5мм.
Само собой резкого подрыва в мощности не было, чуть по увереннее в горку стал ехать.
Now that's impressive 😮
The port design kills flow anyway so without filling it and drilling new angles, flow will be limited. We run into this in garden tractor pulling. Port design is for low compression lawn tractors that dont turn a lot of rpm. Yet, pro builder are getting 100+ hp out of 25hp kohler twins running on alcohol.
Good skills, I enjoyed watching.
Terus bikin kontrn ke gini mas.
Jadi kita tau susahnya bikin mesin.jadi ngga ngeluh soal biaya jasa bubut
The amount of shrouding around the valve must kill the air flow. A domed piston would make more sense to me. Or instead of making an oval shape in the head make it more like a figure 8 so there is more space between the valve edges on either side and the head when the valve is open.
Probably makes less power lol.
I thought they way they used a disc to hold it in the lathe was clever, but I totally agree with your point about shrouding, although it's possible that the valves are oversized for the engine anyway. I'd try to keep as much of the volume as close to the spark plug as possible.
@@MrTrevtrev198 Top end is lower, but bottom end power has to be way up.
@@davidwickboldt712 only if fuel with proper octane to support the compression is available. otherwise, power gains are negated by the need to reduce timing to stop detonation. remember this is a air cooled engine
@@bad406camaro it is a small bore so not as prone to detonation. Running a tight squish/quench, it should be manageable. And it may have started at low compression ratio also.
First time I’ve seen valve clearance cut out of brazing rod filler using the valve guide for alignment. I’m sure there’s a few ways of doing it and I’m not a machinist but always cool to watch one. Nice job though, checked with a mic and everything.
The carbide burr on the cordless drill is also one of my favorite tools! Also the makeshift flap sander been there too
Ю
thats how old valve seat cutters worked
@@tomthompson7400 makes sense, centered on the center of the valve stem. Just now days all the fancy multi axis machines and all don’t seem to use that method. Like you specifically have to setup the piece in relation to the cutter rather than use something as a guide. Then again a serdi machine uses the guide so maybe I’m mixing up some cnc operations with valve seat cutting.
I’d be wondering how different the characteristics of the brazing rod are from the cast aluminum. Like is that combustion chamber gonna expand at different rates because of the two different alloys?
@Water-Man I’m thinking cause some people would find it boring watching him smear brazing rod around lol! That and you can be as messy and as ugly as you wanna be then cut to when it’s semi prettied up
Wow begitu caranya baru tau, makasi ilmunya mas sukses selalu👍🙏
Muito competente e ferramental tudo prontinho e nas mãos.
Me parece que sube mucho la relación de compresión por lo que genera exceso de temperatura sobretodo en un motor refrigerado por aire, pre detonación disminuyendo la vida útil del conjunto de pistón viela y cigüeñal
Yo creo que es un trabajo que se hace para competir. Se usan otros componentes y combustible aeronáutico de mayor octanaje. O directamente otros tipos de combustible aun mas especiales y raros.
No es así, hay dos formas de dar compresión en pistón o en tapa, lo que se hace en competición es darle menos volumen a la tapa y tiene 3 ventajas inmediatas más allá de la compresión, 1- aumenta el flujo de gases al tener menos volumen y de la forma que lo hicieron acá se logra el torbellino que se busca para mejor llenado del cilindro, 2 permite usar pistón con cóncavo porque no necesitas la saliente o pistón plano lo que hace que se pueda mejorar el torque ya que en el tiempo de explosión se forman dos cámaras hemisféricas y eso es potencia de empuje, osea torque. Y el 3- se puede hacer tarjas salva válvulas mucho más grandes sin comprometer la compresión y perder todo lo antes mencionado esto te da la posibilidad de usar más cruce de leva y más permanencia. Lo que se traduce en un motor súper elástico y potente en todos sus rangos de RPM. Saludos
@@marcosmateozambroni3992 interesante, todo esos beneficios con un cambio de compresión!
Con razón los pequeños motores de motocicleta logran producir tanto caballage.
@@ghoulbuster1 es un conjunto de cosas, lo principal el la leva y los conductos, la relación de compresión depende mucho del desarrollo de lo antes mencionado. No siempre más rc le va a dar los resultados esperados.
Gorsze napełnianie komory cylindra, spowolnienie przepływu. Lepszy efekt daje wypukły tłok.
Modifier le Taux de compression ?!..... magnifique !
i mig welded a head like this before. used a grinder to take the majority of the excess weld off, used a Dremel to reshape the chamber. then used 120-1000 grit sandpaper on glass to resurface it. my only fear is thats an overhead cam engine so when you shave the head more then a few thousandths it actually affects the timing significantly because of timing chain slack. push rod engines suffer from something similar were once you shave so much off you need to get new cut to length push rods.
its timed by the chain to crank so timing is same as before , my biggest cincern is the space for valves and mostly flow for power and airspeed , this did nither but peek compression .
@@transdetendal The timing is set by the distance between the cam and crank and how many chain pitches that ends up being. Decking the head changes that distance, retarding valve timing. To fix the timing, you'd either need to redowel the cam gear, get an adjustable gear set or do what modern auto engines do and don't even bother doweling the cam, lock the crank and cams with special tools and then just hope and pray the friction between cam and vvt phaser does not give out.
How do you not know this?
@@pontiacg445 timing is what it is ,never heard of timeing changed with removing matirial to get more compression , the chain sets the time so a tight chain dosent change setting between cam and crank ! never ever had a issue with timing that way and never will unless the chain skip a tooth or break , same goes in a car engine with chain
@@transdetendal Yeah, I am well aware that you have never heard of timing being changed by decking the head, that much is obvious. That doesn't mean it's not a fact, it just means you can't comprehend it. I am sorry you are geometrically challenged...
Type "timing changed decking head" into google if you wish to educate yourself.
Nice looking head…boy!!!
pure gold my friend you do magic
凄い技術力ですね。幾何学的な圧縮比が大きく変化していると思います。
但し、バルブの周囲の壁によって吸入抵抗と排出抵抗が増加する方向で影響を受け、実質的な圧縮比は低下するかもしれません。
🤣
Muy interesante lo que dices amigo puedes ser mas claro ¡¡¡
@@zoquetetormenta5518 mmm 😒 estás subestimando, por eso ahí editor de chat
ora
Valve shrouding.
Need to take some metal off around valves
Also will the metal bond to the cold head?
Good though.
Good job but you just shrouded your valves it will have more compression and have more bottom end power but won't flow the air on the top end just transition the valves a little more love seeing people make stuff instead of buying parts
El trabajo artesanal es hermodso, con las herramientas adecuadas, aunque debe de quedar una compresión como de 13 o 15 a 1, no tengo idea, en una moto normal de calle de fábrica de esas chinas si viene 8 a 1 o 9 a 1 es mucho, yo apenas le quitabas 1 mm as la tapa y ya subía 10 a 1 y cambiaba un montón, ni me imagino con todo ese cambio. El tema que la duración debe de ser mucho menor también a no ser que todo lo demás, bielas, pistones, etc sean forjados y de la mejor calidad. Será para arrancadas o ese tipo de carreras. Me gustaría saber para que las usan .
I am simultaneously impressed and horrified by what I saw here
idem
You know that head is based on kawasaki, Yamaha, Honda or Suzuki engine. Those manufacturers put years into flowing those heads to get maximum efficiency & horsepower. You would have been better off just shaving the head 20K, and get the Piston closer that way. Or you just could have bought a Wiseco piston with a high compression, you can choose how much compression you want. I don't know there's easier ways to do that. For sure. And you don't shroud the valves my way at all. You got the talent, you should do something cool like splitting the 5th or 6th Gear, and creating a 7th Gear. I've seen people do this before and it makes a killer transmission, like a Top Gear Overdrive. Much more worthwhile.....
Was thinking the same. Looks like an old ATC 185/200S head from the 80s.
A piston and a lil cut on head would make easy gains...
Keren bang... Terima kasih sudah berbagi ilmunya
Sesudah di Las dan di squish ulang, seting klep dan bos klep nya di ganti ngga gan?
You would be far better building it up on the edge of the combustion chamber and levelling it off flat, so the piston almost touches it, and leaving the area around the valves totally untouched and open. This is called a squish chamber, you get very good turbulence and flame speed,
It's called "Quench" but yes. You're right. They also fucked up and angled the spark plug at the intake valve. It needs to be angled at the exhaust valve.
@@gadgetdeez7069 there monkeys
The torch to light the cigarette is the most important part and that’s the secret to this whole experience🤦♂️
ga ngerti mesin tp enak aja liat videonya ... uraaaaaa 😁
Your better off getting a domed piston to raise compression. You just killed the flow around the valves, plus that nice sharp edge is just gonna cause it to detonate.
That may be true..but how much does a good piston cost versus 20$ bucks in solder in about 3 hours of work...
@@lorenzolanza8431 costwise obviously doing it this way is cheaper, doesnt mean its the better way of doing it. In my opinion what he did to that head isnt going to work well and will more then likely have problems with detonation/hot spots in the head which would lead to more $$$ damage. Which is why im saying, yeah it costs more, its worth just putting a domed piston in it. You'll still have the flow around the valves, and have the higher compression.
Id say context is important. With $100 budget maybe your better off spending $$ on a set of tyres or an upgraded carb, so maby variables. The question you need to answer is what would you do without access to a piston? ie would you weld a dome on the piston? would it hit the valves ? who knows, but the point fron my perspective is a bit of home budget racer performance mods which is half the fun.
Dome piston is more weight than flat piston
Looks like someone has been watching hammer performance work on harley heads you now have a bathtub head. May reduce flow but increase low end torque. It's all in where you want to keep the h.p. at
Mantap gan modifikasinya
David Vizard would have a fit!!!
Kepalang pinter ni orang jos ngeng😂
Почему до и после не замерил объем?
My dad always said gas is like dynamite the more you compress it or tamp it the bigger the bang and power ! I think as other comments said dome piston would be better . But there are so manny things that can be done to get more . Like if he had the dome piston then he still could have filled in a little . Then port and polishing some dimples around the intake valve pocket . Concave intake valve head to create more vacuum to get the fuel and air in . Then undercut valve stems and a bigger lift and duration on the cam . Then hi flow exhaust and a air cleaner / filter for better flow . Then knife edge crankshaft windage add on’s then higher octane fuel . There is way more than that also so you can see what I’m saying . It’s a thing we’re you get everything you can and those 20 hp add on parts with everything working together be one 30-40 hp parts because they all complement each other and help each of the other parts to produce more !
1st rate & damned impressive !
At the end of all that, he just ended up with longer thumb nails
What's the part for the cylinder head to heat up, bro?
Beautiful work
Gw udah pake cara kaya gt mas..
Dri 2005
🤭
Mantep,padet banget kompresi
😁
Untuk motor std boleh
@@resepzenius1574boleh minumnya Ron 98
good luck to my master, you made a nice engine top cover revision, if possible, you can share the top cover valve seat replacement in a video, that is, the valve seat replacement.
It’s going to work like a charm hi comp min 1000hp on back tyer all the power you need 💪🏼😭
Completely destroying a combustion chamber, the return of the sparkplughole was a miracle, although out of sinc.
Show de bola o trabalho que vc fez parabéns muito bom
Lo que ganaste en compresión lo perdiste en flujo, las valvula queda apantallada y el caudal de aire es menor, mejor poner pistones para mas compresion, la camara de combustion es muy importante para la eficiencia volumetrica, para el efecto SWIRL y tambien ahora tienes tanto SQUISH que se frenara el motor.
Todo esto lo digo no por criticar tu trabajo, sino para que lo mejores y tengas un motor mas eficiente.
Hi Kuli Tehnik, can you tell me what did you use to weld the head?
Pra quem tem boa parte das ferramentas necessária o trabalho fica outro nível
Se você vender a oficina talvez compre o torno.
Можно было избежать половины дурной работы!
Просто отторцевать головку цилиндра,что подняло бы степень сжатия.
Это простое техническое невежество.
После такого прогрева,до оплавления,седла просто выпадут во время работ мотора.
Геометрия в идеал,а как рассчитывали объём камеры сгорания?ДВС собрали?гбц не оторвало?не треснула?
Какая нахер геометрия установка на токарный полная бутафория стрелка индикатора ни разу не шелохнулась
Серёга,хороший ты мужик,но с чувством юмора туго у тебя,дай бог тебе всего что ты хочешь,удачи
Setingan klep nya itu kalo da kena las apa mas bisa di pakai bang?🙏🙏🙏
Love it brilliant 👏 how did you get the lug hole
The spark plug hole
Este si es un verdadero aumento de relación de compresión sin aumentar la cilindrada
Здорово, ты на все руки мастер.
Какие расчёты при изменении компрессии были сделаны???.
Какой объем камеры сгорания на данный момент
Походу все расчёты на глаз и жопомер)
Pemain baru y mas.....gw main begitu dari THN 2001 🤭😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣
A Câmara está errada, tem que ser o mais esférica possível, as válvulas tem que ficar expostas, e não escondidas em poços, desse jeito não vai a 9 mil giros nem com taxa de 15 por 1, essa parede em volta das válvulas bloqueia a passagem do fluxo, e os cantos vivos turbilhonam entrada e saída. O turbilhonamento são muitos rodamoinhos microscópicos, a força centrífuga nessas rotações abaixa a pressão nos centros aumentando a pressão nas bordas dos rodamoinhos ocupando a câmara impedindo mais entrada. No caso de 4 válvulas por cilindro é para reduzir a área total de turbilhonamento atrás das válvulas. Desenhe num papel para ver que tanto faz duas ou 4 válvulas em termos de perímetro total que cabe no cilindro, a diferença é que a área de duas válvulas é o dobro da área de quatro. O perímetro possível de se conseguir em quatro válvulas é o mesmo que se consegue em duas com a diferença que a área de turbilhonamento atrás de duas é o dobro da soma das áreas de quatro. Como exemplo, pra não fazer conta, suponha um cilindro quadrado com 10 cm de lado e uma única válvula quadrada com 5 cm de lado bem no centro. O perímetro em torno da válvula para admissão é 20 cm enquanto a área de turbilhonamento atrás é 5x5 = 25 cm quadrados. Agora pense em duas com 2,5 cm de lado cada. A soma dos perímetros por onde entra o fluxo vai ser os mesmos 20 cm, mas a área total atrás delas vai ser a metade, já que 2,5 x 2,5 = 6,25 mais 6,25 da outra dá 12,5 cm quadrados. Isso pra explicar que o turbilhonamento é tão sério que para reduzir inventaram 4 válvulas por cilindro. Você criou dois problemas aí, estrangulamento e turbilhonamento. Quer aumentar a taxa, faça a câmara um pouco menos convexa que a original, mas sem esses cantos vivos, e sem enterrar as válvulas.
Keep it up, thanks for the info :)
Mas alat yg buat ratain coakan sinting klep apa mas yg ada di video lagi belajar bubut mas
A+ for effort.👍👍👏🏻👏🏻
Nice job and I want to criticize somebody who wants to do that kind of work and have it come out nice. I'm lazy, just spent 50 dollars and buy the high compression piston be done with it.
People in the comments no more the the guy in the video 🤔 maybe he should list and have it translated that way he can put out a useful video so people don't ruin there heads great comments👍👌✌️💯🇺🇸
Класс)
А когда успели под свечу отверстие сделать? Разные головки в работе и в конце видео?(
Lokasi mana om?btw udh ad yg udh jadi blm head mio klep sonic nya??
Impressive, as a prototype, but the real one, make sure you thoroughly clean the combustion before welding. The shape of the material must follow the stream of the air, like a cone shape, because your prototype is restricting the flow.
Use a canned spray to observe the result. Luka a " wet flow bench at home."
This mod, together with a expansion chamber on the throttle body chamber, plus rugged intake walls will increase power without loosing down low torque.
Be sure to follow the cutt on the valve guides.
thank you sir, we are glad you want to share 🙏🙏
@@KULITEHNIK do you accept headwork like that on a cg150 pushrod type? i'll send you the head from phillippines btw..
Massive bump in compression. But absolutely kill air flow. I am sure he impressed his friends and even a few internet machinest. But this is a hack. valves are shrouded heavily. There is no quench. there is now a huge wall for fuel to run into and fall out if suspension. But the real question is there fuel available to support a such a big compression bump.
I play with small suzukis, Original looks just like a dr200 head, finished looks just like a GN125 head. Original would have a domed piston to make up compression, so would be swapping for a (probably larger) flat top piston. Much easier to get a flatop piston than a domed piston that works when making a big bore setup. In my case I'm swapping back to the GN head with big quench areas, but with bigger valves installed to get a usable compression ratio, the big bore kit pistons are no good for either head, and I can go much bigger with flat Honda pistons. I think he's probably got the same issues and there's no such thing as a good head available
Saya punya motor honda supra fit tpi sama mekanik sudah di rubah sudut payung klep nya pake in 28 ex 24 seher 54MM apa perlu di bikin seperti itu untuk mengejar kompresi nya
таким образом меняется не компрессия а геометрическая степень сжатия, то есть можно использовать бензин более высокого октанового числа и высокого качества. а компрессия останется прежней!!!. увеличить компрессию возможно только устранением износа поршневой и восстановлением герметичности клапанов.
How did the moto work?
You could have milled the head and block and piston and came up with higher compression. And keeping the hemispheric combustion chamber.
adding a quench area makes more torque&power&better fuel burn as well as less fuel needed.but this guy welded it up then cut that new quench area back out...you cant fix stupid.
@@marktucker1651 true
How did you calculate Compression before and after?
buret, in oil