Nice explanation. It's nice to see you don't need any special tools to get it within a reasonable margin of error (for home users, at least). Thank you for this.
You did a good job explaining how a laser works. The major issue I had is your assumption the floor is perfectly level; rarely is this true. There is another method much more accurate that is independent of the floor being level and enables the laser to be dialed in so it's dead-on accurate. Accuracy is critical when performing complex finish carpentry...plumb & square is not necessarily a concern for the trades performing work prior to finish carpentry.
Hello Don. Thanks for watching my video and commenting. You are absolutely correct that floors are rarely level, and in the introduction of this video the intent was to show that a properly calibrated laser level will be perfectly balanced in the middle of the X and Y axes when positioned on a truly level surface. This video is actually a sequel to my other video on checking laser level accuracy and intended to show how to perform the calibration to the pendulum. If you would like to see the method I use to perform an accuracy check on a 3D laser level, then please check out my other video: th-cam.com/video/DtkwfKgFqRE/w-d-xo.html
@@brashair7652 Yeah, this ended up being a nicely in-depth explanation of the mechanics of these devices, but starting off with that statement feels like a death-knell to tinkerers seeking tips. May as well toss them a speed square and be done with it, lol. Do you know which manufacturers most commonly firewall their counterweight screws? I like fine-tuning my tools when possible, fine-tuning your tools lets you get a lot of performance out of them for a fraction of the price if you can learn how to do it
An alternate way to check calibration if you have an uneven floor, is you can set the laser level up one or two foot away from the wall and mark the lines. You then go to the opposite wall and setup the laser level the same distance you had it from the original wall and mark the laser again. The distance between the two lines should be within spec for a pass. The closer the room is to the size of your accuracy spec the easier it is to determine and less math you need to do.
No. Much more simple is place it on any surface flat or not, mark a line on a wall flat or not, and rotate him 90degree. Do it 4 times. If all end at thé exact see spot it’s perfectly calibrated. If not You can easily see How much need to be correctes axis by axis by comparing the distance between thé marks. For exemple place it at 5m of à wall And rotate it 180 degree. If 3 mm difference, that mean than on distance X2 = 10m, thé difference is 3mm = 0.3mm/m false balance
Good explanation of how the level works, but you didn't actually give a method of calibration. How does one determine the actual level without a perfectly level floor to work from?
Hello @davidsamways. Thanks so much for watching my video on how to calibrate a laser level. I have another video that explains how to check the level to determine if it needs calibration. You do NOT need to have the level perfectly level to the floor, just within 3 or 4 degrees. Please watch my video on “3D Laser Level Calibration Check and Level Accuracy”: th-cam.com/video/DtkwfKgFqRE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=x8spl6cxgNnknYmQ
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You are the most professional customer I have ever seen, very good video
Thank you! I'm also quite impressed with your Huepar laser products.
Nice explanation. It's nice to see you don't need any special tools to get it within a reasonable margin of error (for home users, at least).
Thank you for this.
You did a good job explaining how a laser works. The major issue I had is your assumption the floor is perfectly level; rarely is this true. There is another method much more accurate that is independent of the floor being level and enables the laser to be dialed in so it's dead-on accurate. Accuracy is critical when performing complex finish carpentry...plumb & square is not necessarily a concern for the trades performing work prior to finish carpentry.
Hello Don. Thanks for watching my video and commenting. You are absolutely correct that floors are rarely level, and in the introduction of this video the intent was to show that a properly calibrated laser level will be perfectly balanced in the middle of the X and Y axes when positioned on a truly level surface. This video is actually a sequel to my other video on checking laser level accuracy and intended to show how to perform the calibration to the pendulum. If you would like to see the method I use to perform an accuracy check on a 3D laser level, then please check out my other video: th-cam.com/video/DtkwfKgFqRE/w-d-xo.html
@@brashair7652 Yeah, this ended up being a nicely in-depth explanation of the mechanics of these devices, but starting off with that statement feels like a death-knell to tinkerers seeking tips. May as well toss them a speed square and be done with it, lol.
Do you know which manufacturers most commonly firewall their counterweight screws? I like fine-tuning my tools when possible, fine-tuning your tools lets you get a lot of performance out of them for a fraction of the price if you can learn how to do it
Thank you very much! I just adjusted Hilda laser from 15mm deviaton to 2mm deviation to 10 meters.
Great explanation and easy to understand visuals.
An alternate way to check calibration if you have an uneven floor, is you can set the laser level up one or two foot away from the wall and mark the lines. You then go to the opposite wall and setup the laser level the same distance you had it from the original wall and mark the laser again. The distance between the two lines should be within spec for a pass. The closer the room is to the size of your accuracy spec the easier it is to determine and less math you need to do.
No. Much more simple is place it on any surface flat or not, mark a line on a wall flat or not, and rotate him 90degree. Do it 4 times. If all end at thé exact see spot it’s perfectly calibrated. If not You can easily see How much need to be correctes axis by axis by comparing the distance between thé marks.
For exemple place it at 5m of à wall And rotate it 180 degree.
If 3 mm difference, that mean than on distance X2 = 10m, thé difference is 3mm = 0.3mm/m false balance
Good explanation of how the level works, but you didn't actually give a method of calibration. How does one determine the actual level without a perfectly level floor to work from?
Hello @davidsamways. Thanks so much for watching my video on how to calibrate a laser level. I have another video that explains how to check the level to determine if it needs calibration. You do NOT need to have the level perfectly level to the floor, just within 3 or 4 degrees. Please watch my video on “3D Laser Level Calibration Check and Level Accuracy”: th-cam.com/video/DtkwfKgFqRE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=x8spl6cxgNnknYmQ
un vídeo del montaje del nivel en el baston
Wow that is cool i thought i could hang a plumb bob from 30 feet and adjust the line to it. Wham bam easy and done not necessarily. THX dood.,
Cool but now a vidoe of How it is done with real images?
Totally useless