Cheers Nick. Very optimised setup for the MUX. I am copying it haha! But I'm gonna try and do it so that it's a couple quick connects and tie downs to take it out for when we need the extra seats and day to day use.
Another fantastic video Nick..... your video's help so much, not only for MU-X owners but for all 4wd's in general. You've explained it so clearly, I feel like I could confidently do this myself!!! Cheers, Don (Dons Shed and Xplor Overland)
We have done a few tracks and camped down in NSW and it handles great and the setup works really well. Looking forward to getting it out on some more challenging tracks very soon, so stay tuned 😀👍
Nice work Nick! thanks for showing the way to get the power from the battery to the cab in the MU-X I'll be connecting my DCDC in pretty much the same way. Keep up the good work.
Hey Guys! There are a few things in this video that i didnt do as per the instructions and that i forgot to put in. The earth cables should be run to a chassis earth point, not a body earth. I forgot to mention the blue wire that goes into the redarc which is an ignition trigger for vehicles with smart alternators. The redarc earth point would be better closer to the controller not all the way in the engine bay. Although the way i have installed the redarc in my vehicle is working fine and ive had no issues with charging i just needed to let you guys know 😊😊😊 Thanks Guys 👍👍👍
@@LowRangeNick what do you say about build quality, I like Ford and VW quality,they feel tough and heavy rugid ( owned both company car ) . I hope build quality isn't like Toyota, I been to some Toyota cars every rough surface feel like Car "shattered" too much and make me sick
Mate if you don't mind, I'm copying your entire set up you have. I'll make sure I take pics and reference your channel and Instagram. This is such a nice setup, you have skills man!!
Nice attention to detail. That cable hanging down beside the fridge may need to be supported as over time it'll wear and possibly break at the terminal block. Thanks for the info.
So u have Dione install and great work on the fuse block and redarc hardware I’ve done same sort of setup in a mates forby but I actually afford a 50amp MIDI fuse between crank battery and 1225D bcdc unit for extra protection a little bit of over engineering doesn’t matter in this sort of instance
Great video Nick, I'm in the process of doing the very same to my 2020 Mux and I'm hoping you can enlighten me on how to wire the blue cable to the 12v socket in the back? For the life of me I can't work out how to remove it to connect the wire. Thanks in advance.
Top video mate, very informative. I'm in the planning process of my 12v system right now and there are a couple of points I'll be taking away from this video. Also, what gauge / diameter wire were you using from the crank battery to the DCDC charger?
Hi Nick. With the price of Lithium batteries becoming more affordable and weight saving, is it possible to use one of them instead of a very heavy Gel battery?
@@LowRangeNick Thank you for your reply. I am in the middle of making a false floor for our MU-X at the moment. Putting in a single drawer and a small fridge slider for our Engel fridge.
Yep, get a set of proper crimpers, you'll get a better connection and can forget about mucking around with solder! Even hydraulic crimpers are cheap these days if you buy the no name sets of eBay or Amazon!
Agreed... I've found that good quality links of the correct size and a decent set of hexagonal crimpers are the best policy for the ideal joint... even introducing solder into the joint isn't a particularly great idea...
Great video mate! Did want to say if you notice a voltage drop at the redarc I would recommend earthing the negative cable of the redarc to the chassis rather then running a negative cable back to battery (essentially it will half your cable run). Also (and more importantly!) Fuse the feed coming from the main battery! last thing you need is the cable to rub on something and start a fire)
Hey Jim! Thanks alot for the feedback. I realised after that i should have earthed it closer to the rear of the car. All of the power supplies are fused, i might have fotgotten to put it in the video. Theres a few things i need to tweek to make the setup perfect. At the moment its working well though 😊 Cheers 👍
@Jim Catelli, Why is an earth back to the the main battery a bad thing ? Would have thought this more robust and safer than using the chassis ? I'm doing something similar but using a vsr and an amp circuit breaker near main battery.
Thanks alot T. I didn't apply any sealant as the rubber grommet is pretty tight around the wiring. If you were concerned about it though you could put some silicone sealant around the wiring. : )
T Yik I had mine running through a small slice in the grommet and I had water in passenger footwell. I couldn’t believe it was coming through here so looked at other possibilities. Then sikaflex to the grommet and it stopped. I did it to both sides to make sure.
Gday mate loved the video, massive help! Do you know how you would go about wiring it to a pre wired battery box, I’ve got the giant battery and box, would you still run the positive and negative from the charger directly to the battery or to the box?
You can run the positive charge lead from the charger, the brown wire to the battery box power post and then the negative from the negative post on the battery box to the chassis earth.
LowRangeNick thanks heaps, just so I’m sure the posts are the external red and black screw caps on the box correct? Also I just thought of another question...to run a solar blanket to the dcdc charger would it work if I hijacked one of the pre built in Anderson plugs on the box and replaced the red wire with the yellow solar cable from the charger?
@@Jim-tb7sj yeah the screw caps should be linked directly to the battery terminal inside. To run solar you will have to run the panel to the yellow wire from the BCDC and then the earth I think to the Chassis earth. The BCDC will regulate and supply the power to the battery. If you have a solar panel with a regulator built in you can just connect it straight to the battery via the Anderson plug.
Hey mate so you can run the main power cables straight from the battery to the DC DC? There is no additional wire necessary to have the DC DC work only when the ignition is on? Cheers
@@LowRangeNick I see! Assume that means if the car isn't running, the voltage is lower, which the redarc then recognises and stops it from charging. I'm going iTech so will have to check if that's the same or if I need to run an additional wire from an ignition source. Thanks heaps!
@@AlexSwan On the later models they have a smart alternator, the early models don't I believe. If the vehicle has a smart alternator you will require the ignition signal to be connected. On the older models with standard alternator I don't believe it's necessary. But it's a good idea to check if the itech charger has a low voltage cut off so it doesn't drain your main battery
Hey Rooster, for the lights I used 3mm twin core because that is what I already had in my shed. The lights do only draw .15 of an amp per light. So .3 of an amp with both lights on according to the specs on the website I bought them off. So i could have used much thinner wiring and it would have been fine. Cheers for the comment 😊😊😊👍👍👍
Thanks so much, this video has perfectly explained what I'm going to do, can't wait till time off over summer to get my install going. One question, I have my BCDC1225D already and it has a midi style fuse. Can I ask why you went for the Maxi option instead? I'm assuming because you've got two maxi fuse holders so only need to carry one type of spare fuse?????
It was hard to find the midi fuse/ fuse holders at the auto stores near me so i just opted for the maxi fuses. Redarc does recommend the midi fuses though. Either will work fine. 😊
@@LowRangeNick Yup agree, hard to come by those midi fuse holders unless you're game to order cheapies off ebay. I'm trying to buy all of the bits and pieces for my 12V system at the moment, finding everything you need locally seems to be the hardest part of the build.
Hi Nick, On the crank/start battery, where do you recommend connecting the negative from the dc/dc in the tub? I have a 2017 Dmax and it has a smart alternator. I believe that it should be connected after the shunt! Regards
The negative should be connected to chassis earth. So any good earth point on the chassis will be fine. You don't need to run it all the way to the battery.
Hey Nick, just starting to route my cabling on the new MUX. Wondering would you still cut a hole in the factory FW grommet? My cable will end at the exact same point as yours, can take the trims off no worries and with the anderson and all in one wiring kits it should be easy but not sure if cutting a slit in the grommet is the way to go. If you could do it again would you take the same approach?
There's no other way to do it haha. Some vehicles have an accessory tab built into the grommet that you chop the end off and feed the wiring through but the Isuzu doesn't have anything like that. The only way to get the wiring into the vehicle is through the grommets.
@@LowRangeNick I thought as much, might just touch up with some silicone. I do love all the newer DCDC’s being anderson connections, plug and play!!! Thanks mate
Some really good videos here, some really practical and helpful advice too. I do however have one question, it is regarding the "Snorkel" Can anyone tell me what on earth is the point of having the air intake almost up at roof height rather than slightly above stock? Why would you ever want to keep your motor running when your entire dashboard engine and electrics are totally submerged? All those razored grommets are going to flood the cab and make the vehicle a total right off anyway! Now, if you were to tell me it is for "looks" and not practicality, then fine, but no way that snorkel makes any sense whatsoever.
You helped me out on a couple of things I had questions about. I'm building a sleep in the bed of my pickup. I got the 100mA lithium with redarc. My main question is If you run your positive from ur main battery to the redarc. Where does the negative go? U mention something about just grounding on the chassis. So instead of me needing 25ft of negative cable to take the redarc to the battery neg. I can just take the redarc negative to chassis ground correct? That will save me a pretty penny if so
Hey Nick, that's such a neat setup, very impressed. Maybe a dumb question here, but are you concerned about the intake of water given all the electrical equipment you have? Or have you allowed for this somehow, very interested to know.. Cheers. P.S. Subscribed!
Thanks for subscribing dekaOsiris! All of the electrical setup is very well sealed and can go through water if it ever does. Most of the time this setup is put in the engine bay were it is hammered by water, heat, dust an mud for years and years. So having it protected in the back will keep it in good condition for alot longer. But if it ever does get wet, say if i got stuck in a water crossing or something i would just need to let it dry off and it would all be fine. The only thing that may get damaged is the fridge, but then again i have heard of lots of people sinking the fridges and just letting them dry out and there ok. So all in all it shouldnt be an issue. Hope that helps 😊 Cheers!
@@jarrodschoenmaker8780 Because the biggest fuse i could safely run in the Maxi fuse holder was a 60 amp fuse. If i wanted to run a 120 amp fuse i would of needed to buy a fixed larger fuse holder which are a little more expensive. Also i highly doubt i will run enough accesories of it to reach 120 amps. At the moment i have a fridge and camp lights. The fridge draws max of 7 amps and my lights draw under 1 Amp. So that gives me more than enough amperage to play with when it comes to fitting my other accesories 😊👍 hope that all makes sense haha!
LowRangeNick awesome thanks so much I’m going to install the same fuse block soon so answers the questions perfectly. Also great video mate you have a talent! I just love how much effort you put into thing to make them neat and tidy not many people do that!
@@jarrodschoenmaker8780 Thanks alot man! It definately pays to take your time and do it all correctly. Its a great fuse box. Makes it so much easier to wire things up. 😊👍
Hi Steve, they are available from lots of different auto stores. I got mine from Coolum Carbitz because that was my closest auto store. Any store that sells Narva electrics should be able to get you one though. Cheers! 😊👍
one thing missing is how are you controlling the lights if they’re just connected to the fuse box? Do you have some switches installed? I don’t remember seeing your switches.
How did that earthing option go? I'm about to do a similar install in my Dmax with a Projecta unit and not sure how I will earth the 2nd battery in the tub.
@@chicbarn The earth works perfectly, very very low resistance back to the battery. As long as you clean up the contact point you shouldnt have any dramas. If the tub is mounted on rubber mounts it may be slightly different, but there is usually still some sort of contact between tub and chassis. You can always use a multimeter to check the resistance between the tub and chassis before commiting to the earth point just to be sure. 😊👍
If you remove the inner plastic wheel guard on the passenger side there is a cable entry point where you dont need to destroy your factory firewall grommet. Also, common issue when aftermarket cabling is routed through the grommet you gave used it is the best way for moisture to run down the harness and into you ecu. This is a common issue that I see in my job!! 🤦♂️
Hey mate, what size was your cable you ran from the starter battery? and also I have the kickass dual battery wiring kit here. would that be fine to use? I'm not running it to a kickass battery box but instead same as you to a bcdc1225d. Cheers
The cable size i used is 8 awg cable from starter battery to the bcdc. Im not too sure what comes with the kickass wiring kit but if it is your standard dual battery wiring kit with fusing and the correct size wiring then it should be fine to use 👍
@@TechStories79 the redarc bcdc 1225d only draws and supplies a maximum of 25 amps to the battery. If you got the 1240 you would need a bigger fuse because the 1240 can draw and supply 40 amps. 😊 And thats what it says in the redarc instruction booklet.
hey mate! was just wondering when you wired the twin core cable from the dcdc charger to the starter battery did you connect the power to the positive and the earth just directly to the negative or did you then run a grounding cable from the negative of the starter?
Everyone has questions Nick - mine is where did you get the led lights? They are really nice. Good run down of your install. Placing the second battery in a cooler environment than under the bonnet will improve its life. You probably want a volt meter so you can ensure you don't run the battery down below 12V or whatever voltage is required for maximum life (if that is high on your list of priorities). You can get ones that plug into lighter sockets, but I suggest get something more permanent than that. I'd use an analog meter like this - just because they don't drain your battery and are ultra reliable. i.ebayimg.com/images/g/zcsAAOSwquBah7Av/s-l1600.jpg (Not sure about this one, but generally you can take the cover off and mark in your min voltage to make it easier to see when the battery should be charged).
Hey Benny! Heres the link to the little lights ive used. www.ebay.com.au/itm/2X-12V-Aluminum-Swivel-Lamp-Cool-White-Boat-Caravan-Rail-Strip-Light-Switch/190848204492?hash=item2c6f707ecc:g:HlEAAOSweW5VZShN:sc:AU_StandardDelivery!4000!AU!-1 I will definately be putting in a monitor of some sort in the future, thinking of with an amperage meter and voltage gauge. Cheers 😊😊😊
Haha the buggers putting Palmers adds on my videos! Should be Isuzu or 4wd related. Well thanks for sticking through the adds and supporting my videos! Appreciate it 😊👍
Hey Guys! Here's some tools that will make the job alot easier and more professional:-
-wire strippers: amzn.to/3FhiN1P
-side cutters:
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-terminal Crimps and Crimper:
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-gas soldering/torche kit:
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-heat shrink kit:
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-battery terminal crimp tool:
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-Trim tool kit:
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-LED work light:
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Cheers Guys 😊🛠
Cheers thankyou!✔️
Cheers Nick. Very optimised setup for the MUX. I am copying it haha! But I'm gonna try and do it so that it's a couple quick connects and tie downs to take it out for when we need the extra seats and day to day use.
Another fantastic video Nick..... your video's help so much, not only for MU-X owners but for all 4wd's in general. You've explained it so clearly, I feel like I could confidently do this myself!!! Cheers, Don (Dons Shed and Xplor Overland)
Very well produced Nick. I understood everything. You truly are talented.
Cheers Barry 😊 Glad i could help 👍
Nice work! We are in the process of doing a very similar set up with our MUX. It's always great to see other peoples ideas
Thanks Nick.
I have little electrical installation know-how however your video has given me the confidence to do it myself - thanks again :-)
"oop there's a little fire"
So relaxed I love it
Thanks for that Nick, good job keeping things neat and tidy
Can't wait for this MUX to be finished and hitting the tracks the vids will be sick
We have done a few tracks and camped down in NSW and it handles great and the setup works really well. Looking forward to getting it out on some more challenging tracks very soon, so stay tuned 😀👍
Nice work Nick! thanks for showing the way to get the power from the battery to the cab in the MU-X I'll be connecting my DCDC in pretty much the same way. Keep up the good work.
Awesome! Glad i could help 😊👍
Good tidy work as usual and well presented. Thanks for your help Nick!
Thanks alot 😊👍
Hey Guys! There are a few things in this video that i didnt do as per the instructions and that i forgot to put in. The earth cables should be run to a chassis earth point, not a body earth. I forgot to mention the blue wire that goes into the redarc which is an ignition trigger for vehicles with smart alternators. The redarc earth point would be better closer to the controller not all the way in the engine bay. Although the way i have installed the redarc in my vehicle is working fine and ive had no issues with charging i just needed to let you guys know 😊😊😊 Thanks Guys 👍👍👍
Hi Nick, quick favor plz, which SUV you recon after your experience?
@@banugaria967 Mu-x for sure 😊😊😊
@@LowRangeNick what do you say about build quality, I like Ford and VW quality,they feel tough and heavy rugid ( owned both company car ) . I hope build quality isn't like Toyota, I been to some Toyota cars every rough surface feel like Car "shattered" too much and make me sick
@@banugaria967 I think the build quality is pretty good. 😊
Mate if you don't mind, I'm copying your entire set up you have. I'll make sure I take pics and reference your channel and Instagram. This is such a nice setup, you have skills man!!
Nice attention to detail. That cable hanging down beside the fridge may need to be supported as over time it'll wear and possibly break at the terminal block. Thanks for the info.
I needed this video so bad !!! I cant thank you enough for this education. Fantastic job....so easy to follow, thanks again
So u have Dione install and great work on the fuse block and redarc hardware I’ve done same sort of setup in a mates forby but I actually afford a 50amp MIDI fuse between crank battery and 1225D bcdc unit for extra protection a little bit of over engineering doesn’t matter in this sort of instance
Nice neat work mate and good clear instructions.
Great video Nick, I'm in the process of doing the very same to my 2020 Mux and I'm hoping you can enlighten me on how to wire the blue cable to the 12v socket in the back? For the life of me I can't work out how to remove it to connect the wire. Thanks in advance.
You have to pull the boot seal off a bit. Flick up the plastic cover on the tie down hook and remove the tiedown hook and then it should pop out.
@@LowRangeNick thanks mate it's been driving me nuts all day. I look forward to seeing more of your awesome videos.
@@benkarnatz6777 Thanks alot 😊 Appreciate you watching!
Great video. Love the attention to detail.
Thanks alot Joshua! 😊
Nice work mate, was wondering about this exact project. just need to secure the wires from the fuse box to accessories.
Thanks for the video. If you have a solar blanket would you just connect that straight to the starter battery to keep both charged up while camping?
@ConorMcgahern yep you just run the power supply to the yellow wire I believe it is and then earth to the chassis.
I was just wondering how you fing the quality and how you find the giant battery
Great! 2 and a half years later Still going good!
@@LowRangeNick that is good to here as herd a lot of mixed results on this brand. What made you go one of these over other's such as kickass
Nice job,. Besides not having the correct crimpers described below, your pressure looked good and the solder and heat shrink should be solid.
Top video mate, very informative. I'm in the planning process of my 12v system right now and there are a couple of points I'll be taking away from this video. Also, what gauge / diameter wire were you using from the crank battery to the DCDC charger?
It used 8 awg wiring from the cranking battery to the dcdc charger. Thanks alot 😊👍
Hi Nick. With the price of Lithium batteries becoming more affordable and weight saving, is it possible to use one of them instead of a very heavy Gel battery?
Hi George, it is absolutely a good idea. The redarc bcdc 1225d can charge lithium.
@@LowRangeNick Thank you for your reply. I am in the middle of making a false floor for our MU-X at the moment. Putting in a single drawer and a small fridge slider for our Engel fridge.
Great set up mate
Cheers mate 😁😁😁
Great video Nick from 1 MU-X owner to another. My only feedback is please buy proper cable crimpers rather than using side cutters.
You'd think we would send him a pair considering how much effort he goes to 😁
Yep, get a set of proper crimpers, you'll get a better connection and can forget about mucking around with solder! Even hydraulic crimpers are cheap these days if you buy the no name sets of eBay or Amazon!
Agreed... I've found that good quality links of the correct size and a decent set of hexagonal crimpers are the best policy for the ideal joint... even introducing solder into the joint isn't a particularly great idea...
I run a 40anp lithium. It is great. Some people run huge batteries but the little ones meet most people’s needs
Great video mate! Did want to say if you notice a voltage drop at the redarc I would recommend earthing the negative cable of the redarc to the chassis rather then running a negative cable back to battery (essentially it will half your cable run).
Also (and more importantly!) Fuse the feed coming from the main battery! last thing you need is the cable to rub on something and start a fire)
Hey Jim! Thanks alot for the feedback. I realised after that i should have earthed it closer to the rear of the car. All of the power supplies are fused, i might have fotgotten to put it in the video. Theres a few things i need to tweek to make the setup perfect. At the moment its working well though 😊 Cheers 👍
@Jim Catelli, Why is an earth back to the the main battery a bad thing ?
Would have thought this more robust and safer than using the chassis ?
I'm doing something similar but using a vsr and an amp circuit breaker near main battery.
Excellent info for DIY. For the cable going thru the firewall, do you apply any silicone to stop water ingress.
Thanks alot T. I didn't apply any sealant as the rubber grommet is pretty tight around the wiring. If you were concerned about it though you could put some silicone sealant around the wiring. : )
T Yik I had mine running through a small slice in the grommet and I had water in passenger footwell. I couldn’t believe it was coming through here so looked at other possibilities. Then sikaflex to the grommet and it stopped. I did it to both sides to make sure.
nice install mate just wanted to know if you connected the ignition from the redarc
Yep, connected it to the rear cig lighter power supply.
Gday mate loved the video, massive help! Do you know how you would go about wiring it to a pre wired battery box, I’ve got the giant battery and box, would you still run the positive and negative from the charger directly to the battery or to the box?
You can run the positive charge lead from the charger, the brown wire to the battery box power post and then the negative from the negative post on the battery box to the chassis earth.
LowRangeNick thanks heaps, just so I’m sure the posts are the external red and black screw caps on the box correct? Also I just thought of another question...to run a solar blanket to the dcdc charger would it work if I hijacked one of the pre built in Anderson plugs on the box and replaced the red wire with the yellow solar cable from the charger?
@@Jim-tb7sj yeah the screw caps should be linked directly to the battery terminal inside. To run solar you will have to run the panel to the yellow wire from the BCDC and then the earth I think to the Chassis earth. The BCDC will regulate and supply the power to the battery. If you have a solar panel with a regulator built in you can just connect it straight to the battery via the Anderson plug.
LowRangeNick rightio, again thanks heaps mate 🙏
@@Jim-tb7sj No worries!
How did you find the continuity of the earth using the 3rd row seat bolts? Any issues?
Just checked conno on mine and stunned at how good it seems!
Its fine 👌
Nice install mate.
Thanks alot 😊
Hey mate so you can run the main power cables straight from the battery to the DC DC? There is no additional wire necessary to have the DC DC work only when the ignition is on? Cheers
Yep you can just run it straight to the dcdc. The redarc has a low voltage cut off switch I believe
@@LowRangeNick I see! Assume that means if the car isn't running, the voltage is lower, which the redarc then recognises and stops it from charging. I'm going iTech so will have to check if that's the same or if I need to run an additional wire from an ignition source. Thanks heaps!
@@AlexSwan On the later models they have a smart alternator, the early models don't I believe. If the vehicle has a smart alternator you will require the ignition signal to be connected. On the older models with standard alternator I don't believe it's necessary. But it's a good idea to check if the itech charger has a low voltage cut off so it doesn't drain your main battery
@@LowRangeNick My MUX is 2019, should be the same as yours? I assumed it already had a smart alternator. Be better if it didn't. :)
@@AlexSwan ok awesome, yep it will have a smart alternator.
Nice info...Good set up...What gauge wire for the lights...👍...
Hey Rooster, for the lights I used 3mm twin core because that is what I already had in my shed. The lights do only draw .15 of an amp per light. So .3 of an amp with both lights on according to the specs on the website I bought them off. So i could have used much thinner wiring and it would have been fine. Cheers for the comment 😊😊😊👍👍👍
Thanks, buddy...👌...
@@LowRangeNick hey mate what size fuse did you use for the lights?
Thanks so much, this video has perfectly explained what I'm going to do, can't wait till time off over summer to get my install going. One question, I have my BCDC1225D already and it has a midi style fuse. Can I ask why you went for the Maxi option instead? I'm assuming because you've got two maxi fuse holders so only need to carry one type of spare fuse?????
It was hard to find the midi fuse/ fuse holders at the auto stores near me so i just opted for the maxi fuses. Redarc does recommend the midi fuses though. Either will work fine. 😊
@@LowRangeNick Yup agree, hard to come by those midi fuse holders unless you're game to order cheapies off ebay. I'm trying to buy all of the bits and pieces for my 12V system at the moment, finding everything you need locally seems to be the hardest part of the build.
Hi Nick, On the crank/start battery, where do you recommend connecting the negative from the dc/dc in the tub? I have a 2017 Dmax and it has a smart alternator. I believe that it should be connected after the shunt! Regards
The negative should be connected to chassis earth. So any good earth point on the chassis will be fine. You don't need to run it all the way to the battery.
@@LowRangeNick thank you mate
Hey Nick, just starting to route my cabling on the new MUX. Wondering would you still cut a hole in the factory FW grommet? My cable will end at the exact same point as yours, can take the trims off no worries and with the anderson and all in one wiring kits it should be easy but not sure if cutting a slit in the grommet is the way to go. If you could do it again would you take the same approach?
There's no other way to do it haha. Some vehicles have an accessory tab built into the grommet that you chop the end off and feed the wiring through but the Isuzu doesn't have anything like that. The only way to get the wiring into the vehicle is through the grommets.
@@LowRangeNick I thought as much, might just touch up with some silicone. I do love all the newer DCDC’s being anderson connections, plug and play!!! Thanks mate
Some really good videos here, some really practical and helpful advice too. I do however have one question, it is regarding the "Snorkel" Can anyone tell me what on earth is the point of having the air intake almost up at roof height rather than slightly above stock? Why would you ever want to keep your motor running when your entire dashboard engine and electrics are totally submerged? All those razored grommets are going to flood the cab and make the vehicle a total right off anyway!
Now, if you were to tell me it is for "looks" and not practicality, then fine, but no way that snorkel makes any sense whatsoever.
You helped me out on a couple of things I had questions about. I'm building a sleep in the bed of my pickup. I got the 100mA lithium with redarc. My main question is If you run your positive from ur main battery to the redarc. Where does the negative go? U mention something about just grounding on the chassis. So instead of me needing 25ft of negative cable to take the redarc to the battery neg. I can just take the redarc negative to chassis ground correct? That will save me a pretty penny if so
I believe you should be able to just ground it to the Chassis. :)
Did you have to connect the blue wire? And if you did were did you run it to?
Hey Nick, that's such a neat setup, very impressed. Maybe a dumb question here, but are you concerned about the intake of water given all the electrical equipment you have? Or have you allowed for this somehow, very interested to know.. Cheers. P.S. Subscribed!
Thanks for subscribing dekaOsiris! All of the electrical setup is very well sealed and can go through water if it ever does. Most of the time this setup is put in the engine bay were it is hammered by water, heat, dust an mud for years and years. So having it protected in the back will keep it in good condition for alot longer. But if it ever does get wet, say if i got stuck in a water crossing or something i would just need to let it dry off and it would all be fine. The only thing that may get damaged is the fridge, but then again i have heard of lots of people sinking the fridges and just letting them dry out and there ok. So all in all it shouldnt be an issue. Hope that helps 😊 Cheers!
@@LowRangeNick thanks for the explanation mate, much appreciated.
Hi Nick great videos mate, I'm thinking I could do the same setup to my ranger px model, do you think it would work.
I think it would be great! Its nice having everything organised.
Thanks heaps mate, appreciate this. I noticed your fridge wasn’t wired into the fuse holder is that because it drawers too much?
The fridge plug goes into an Engel socket which is run off the fuse holder.
What size fuse did you run from the second battery to the fuse block?
Hey Jarrod, i used a 60 amp maxi fuse between the secondary battery and fuse box.
LowRangeNick is there any reason you put a 60 amp fuse when the max amp output of the fuse block is 120amp
@@jarrodschoenmaker8780 Because the biggest fuse i could safely run in the Maxi fuse holder was a 60 amp fuse. If i wanted to run a 120 amp fuse i would of needed to buy a fixed larger fuse holder which are a little more expensive. Also i highly doubt i will run enough accesories of it to reach 120 amps. At the moment i have a fridge and camp lights. The fridge draws max of 7 amps and my lights draw under 1 Amp. So that gives me more than enough amperage to play with when it comes to fitting my other accesories 😊👍 hope that all makes sense haha!
LowRangeNick awesome thanks so much I’m going to install the same fuse block soon so answers the questions perfectly. Also great video mate you have a talent! I just love how much effort you put into thing to make them neat and tidy not many people do that!
@@jarrodschoenmaker8780 Thanks alot man! It definately pays to take your time and do it all correctly. Its a great fuse box. Makes it so much easier to wire things up. 😊👍
Did you up grade your MXU suspension for the extra weight.
Yep, it has outback armour hd suspension
Another great video 👍👍👍 Do you have a link to the swivel lights you fitted 🤔🤔.
No sorry, I found them on ebay
@@LowRangeNick NO Worries .Thanks for the swift reply 👍
I might have used some foil instead of an old sheet to protect the interior.
Where did you get the fuse block from Nick
Hi Steve, they are available from lots of different auto stores. I got mine from Coolum Carbitz because that was my closest auto store. Any store that sells Narva electrics should be able to get you one though. Cheers! 😊👍
one thing missing is how are you controlling the lights if they’re just connected to the fuse box? Do you have some switches installed? I don’t remember seeing your switches.
Both of the lights have inbuilt switches on the lights.
LowRangeNick yes, but where are they installed?
@@FrenchHawk878 If you look at the video at 17:07 you can see the two black switches located on the front of the lights?
LowRangeNick oh, you meant those light. I thoughts those weren’t hardwired, they were just snap on lights or something.
@@FrenchHawk878 yeah, they are screwed into the plastic trim panel cover. They are run off the secondary battery.
Good work. Very tidy
Thanks Travis 😊👍
How did that earthing option go? I'm about to do a similar install in my Dmax with a Projecta unit and not sure how I will earth the 2nd battery in the tub.
@@chicbarn The earth works perfectly, very very low resistance back to the battery. As long as you clean up the contact point you shouldnt have any dramas. If the tub is mounted on rubber mounts it may be slightly different, but there is usually still some sort of contact between tub and chassis. You can always use a multimeter to check the resistance between the tub and chassis before commiting to the earth point just to be sure. 😊👍
Hey Nick did you do a video on the install of your driving lights?
I didn't make one sorry
nice setup
How you finding it so far? I'm looking at putting dual battery in soon. Any issues?
No issues ! All working great ! The Redarc BCDC and Giant AGM are a great combo!
@@LowRangeNick that's good to hear, did you have to hook the blue wire up to the ignition?
@@thelastname2k yep! hooked it up to the rear cig lighter as it is switched on and off with the ignition.
If you remove the inner plastic wheel guard on the passenger side there is a cable entry point where you dont need to destroy your factory firewall grommet. Also, common issue when aftermarket cabling is routed through the grommet you gave used it is the best way for moisture to run down the harness and into you ecu. This is a common issue that I see in my job!! 🤦♂️
Also seeing your vehicles has smart charge alternator u should really connect the ignition input to the bcdc......
What size wire did you run from the main battery?
It was 8AWG gauge wire from the main battery to the charger 😊
@@LowRangeNick Thank you.
Terrific video
Hey mate, what size was your cable you ran from the starter battery? and also I have the kickass dual battery wiring kit here. would that be fine to use? I'm not running it to a kickass battery box but instead same as you to a bcdc1225d. Cheers
The cable size i used is 8 awg cable from starter battery to the bcdc. Im not too sure what comes with the kickass wiring kit but if it is your standard dual battery wiring kit with fusing and the correct size wiring then it should be fine to use 👍
@@LowRangeNick thanks mate, and also what size fuse did you use between the redarc bcdc and the house battery?
@@TechStories79 40 amp fuse between the battery and bcdc charger 👍
@@LowRangeNick can i ask why you chose that size? This seems to be where I get lost lol.
@@TechStories79 the redarc bcdc 1225d only draws and supplies a maximum of 25 amps to the battery. If you got the 1240 you would need a bigger fuse because the 1240 can draw and supply 40 amps. 😊 And thats what it says in the redarc instruction booklet.
How did you wire up the ignition trigger wire?
Wired to the rear cig lighter power supply 😊
I’m doing a system similar but in a camper trailer so trying to work out how to wire it
why not use anderson plgs
What size is the main cable you used
8AWG twin core wiring 👍
cheers
like ur videos mate.
Cheers 😊
hey mate! was just wondering when you wired the twin core cable from the dcdc charger to the starter battery did you connect the power to the positive and the earth just directly to the negative or did you then run a grounding cable from the negative of the starter?
I just ran it to the negative terminal.
Nice video
Everyone has questions Nick - mine is where did you get the led lights? They are really nice. Good run down of your install. Placing the second battery in a cooler environment than under the bonnet will improve its life. You probably want a volt meter so you can ensure you don't run the battery down below 12V or whatever voltage is required for maximum life (if that is high on your list of priorities). You can get ones that plug into lighter sockets, but I suggest get something more permanent than that. I'd use an analog meter like this - just because they don't drain your battery and are ultra reliable. i.ebayimg.com/images/g/zcsAAOSwquBah7Av/s-l1600.jpg (Not sure about this one, but generally you can take the cover off and mark in your min voltage to make it easier to see when the battery should be charged).
Hey Benny! Heres the link to the little lights ive used. www.ebay.com.au/itm/2X-12V-Aluminum-Swivel-Lamp-Cool-White-Boat-Caravan-Rail-Strip-Light-Switch/190848204492?hash=item2c6f707ecc:g:HlEAAOSweW5VZShN:sc:AU_StandardDelivery!4000!AU!-1
I will definately be putting in a monitor of some sort in the future, thinking of with an amperage meter and voltage gauge. Cheers 😊😊😊
Should have used a Intervolt DCC pro, has a display with both main and second battery voltages.
Perfect mate, Thank you
Nice job mate - appreciate you sharing. Shame the vid was interrupted by adverts for that meathead Clive Palmer...
Haha the buggers putting Palmers adds on my videos! Should be Isuzu or 4wd related. Well thanks for sticking through the adds and supporting my videos! Appreciate it 😊👍
Shouldn't be soldering vehicle wiring any more. Solder cracks with vibration. Auto electricians moved away from solder a long time ago.
If not solder, how do you connect them ?
@LesWieland crimp connections